Reddit mentions: The best epoxy adhesives

As long as this doesn't go in the oven (or get hotter than 180ºF / 80ºC) of course it can be glued, and with fine, strong (but still slightly visible) results.

u/GondorUr is probably right, it would be easiest to return it and that would have the best results, but...

u/pobroin has the right attitude, considering their appreciation of kintsugi, and so do you, I presume, since you are asking about repairing, rather than replacing.

u/BcookieOmonsterB is right, that cyanoacrylate (Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc.) works well with ceramics, but cyanoacrylate works best on nonporous surfaces, and when the surfaces fit really well with the least possible gap. On ceramics, especially if not fired to the point of being vitreous, there's often a few grains that will get dislodged in the glue, while fitting the pieces back together, that will stand in the way of ever getting a truly close fit. So...


As this job is a nice clean break, and a simple two pieces. It's the perfect job for a two-part epoxy, which is plenty strong and will fill any small gaps with virtually no loss of strength, unlike cyanoactrylate.

Your best option to repair (rather than replace) is a two-part clear epoxy. Since you're asking about this, I assume you haven't worked with glues much, and are unfamiliar with the process, and may be a bit slower than someone more practiced. Different epoxies have different working or handling times, and since you don't want to rush it, look for longer than 5-minute epoxy (this one gives you a full 30 minutes, but that's a lot longer than you should need for this simple job - look for a 10-minute epoxy).

• Dry fit the two pieces together to make sure they do fit well, and dust off any loose grit or chips that remain on the broken surface. Don't clean the surfaces with any water, soap, or cleaning agents, just a clean dry toothbrush or similar.
  
  
• Lay down some newspaper or something else disposable to protect your table/counter/work-surface (a sheet of parchment paper works really well here, as drips are less likely to stick the paper to your lid). There will almost certainly be drips.
  
  
• Get some tape and have it close to hand for clamping the glued pieces together, later. As the lid has a nice smooth glazed surface,almost any tape will do, but something with just a little bit of stretch, like electrician's tape or duct tape would be best, as you can pull the tape a little tightly across the mend, and the elasticity of the tape will give just a little of a slow steady tug, to help to squeeze out excess glue,and snug the two halves together.
  
  
• Squeeze out equal amounts of resin and hardener (or whatever ratio the instructions recommend, usually it is 1:1, and the double-syringe tubes, like the one I linked to above, help you keep the amounts fairly equal) onto a disposable surface, such as a clean tuna can lid, a piece of parchment paper, the bottom of a soda can,whatever,and stir them together really well with a popsicle stick, a nail, a cuticle stick, or some other disposable applicator. Stir well, making sure scrape all around the edges of the puddle, to incorporate all of the two components, so it is fully and evenly mixed. Also, make sure you mix up more glue than you will need, because you want to do the gluing all in one go, especially if you are using one of the quicker 5-minute epoxies.
  
  
• Place the lid halves on your protected work surface. Using your mixer/applicator, smear a line of epoxy all along the centerline of one of the broken edges, about a third as thick as the edge. Doesn't matter if you go thicker, but don't go much thinner, and do make it a continuous bead, all along, from end to end.
  
  
• Slide your two pieces together, carefully lining them up as accurately as possible. Press them together firmly , keeping your hands down at the edge for the most part, perpendicular to the crack (crack runs north to south, hands at west and east).
  
  
• Take a strip of your tape and stretch it across the glueline, from one piece to the other, down there just above the rim, pulling the tape a bit tight to give it some stretch. Do the same for the other end of the crack, again, just above the rim. (NOTE: you start here at the rim, rather than in the middle, up near the knob/handle, because downward pressure up there at the center, could press the center down, rocking the two outer edged of the two halves up and away from each other. Out at the rim, downward pressure has almost no torque to tip the halves.) Now add about three other strips of tape, spread out along the glueline. (Edit: additional strips, again, go west to east, from one half to the other, across the glue line, not along or in line with the glueline, with a bit of stretch/tension).
  
  
• Flip it over and and place a couple more strips of tape on the underside.
  
  
• Before the glue has cured (hardened), using a clean dry cloth or paper towel and acetone, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol, gently wipe up any excess epoxy that has squeezed out the crack onto the surface.
  
  
• Leave your work undisturbed, to cure, for the recommended amount of time, however long it is, 5, 10, 30 minutes, before handling it any further, and allow a full 24 hours, before putting the lid to work
  
  
• After curing, remove the tape, and use a sharp knife or razor blade to carefully and thoroughly scrape off any excess cured glue there.
  
  
• Wash and proudly put into service.
  
  Edit: Yay! Silver! Thanks for the alms, secret Samaritan.
  
  Edit 2: Clarification added to taping procedure

I love them. Bought one new from Newegg on sale for $350 and one from Acer recertified for $280 (which is exactly what this thread is of). They're super smooth if you've got a good AMD card. Even a strong Nvidia card will look great, but won't be able to utilize the freesync like an AMD card could. I've used this copy/pasta in other posts about this monitor, so here it is again.

 

I used this guy's Amazon tutorial on how to put the adapter on, although I got the non-quick set version that comes in seperate tubes.

These are the items I purchased:

• VESA adapter, almost twice as strong as the quick-set.
  
  
• This exact JB Weld, although I got mine from the local Lowe's.
  
  
• Monitor Mount, I went single mount over double, so I could have more freedom of placement.
  
  Here are the pics of my setup. Please note, I waited a full 24 hours before mounting them. I know people get antsy, but just wait!!! Also, when adjusting the monitors for the first time, don't use too much torque, or you might detach the adapter from the monitor. The scratch marks you see on the back of the monitor, next to the adapter are where I sanded it down. I don't care about the way it looks, since my desk is against a wall. You can probably be a bit more careful if you actually care about the looks. I also sanded off the paint from the adapters so I can get good contact between the rough plastic surface and the bare steel plate. The screws that came with the adapters, as long as I washered them out a little, were perfectly fine to use.
  
  There are still some small adjustments I need to make to the way they are lined up, but this is pretty much 99% done. I highly recommend anyone looking for more desk space to give this a shot.

Three variations on the theme:

Mountain Creek:

Shopping List

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Gray Talus in Fine and Coarse (1 bag each)
  
• Earth Blended Turf (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Stone Grey (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Either Mod Podge or Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  This will provide enough material to do hundreds of bases. Really the only limit is how many of the Hollow Blank bases you buy.
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the grey paint. Paint thin streaks of brown sand over the grey. Make sure all of the streaks flow in the same direction. You want a pattern like this. The streaks should run parallel to the direction the water flows.
   
3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
4. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Coarse talus onto the glue. If you can, paint the glue on in streaks like you did with the brown.
   
6. Sprinkle a small amount of the Fine talus onto the glue. Always sprinkle the Coarse talus first, then the Fine, as this will create a more natural looking clumping of rocks -- small rocks pile up around larger rocks, large rocks don't sit on top of piles of smaller rocks.
   
7. Sprinkle a small amount of the Earth Blended Turf onto the glue. This will simulate organic debris caught up in the rocks.
   
8. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
9. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
10. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint either the Mod Podge or Gloss Gel (henceforth "texture") over the epoxy. The Mod Podge is easier to work with, but will tend to settle more, so use the Mod Podge if you want to simulate slowly moving water, and the Gloss Gel if you want choppier, faster-moving water.
    
    In either case, paint the texture over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush (a cheap #4 Filbert is perfect) create waves by making short, quick strokes. You want these brush strokes to go in the direction that the water is flowing, but you want to work your way backwards from the outflow point to the inflow point so that the crests of your "waves" overlap properly. Here's an image showing what I mean.
    
    Swampy Pond
    
    Shopping List:
    
    

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• [Green Blended Turf]http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/BT-GB/page/1) (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Olive Green (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Parsley Flake
  
• Gloss Varnish
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the olive green paint. 3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
3. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
4. Sprinkle a very small amount of the Parsley Flake onto the glue.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Green Blended Turf onto the glue.
   
6. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
7. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Using the end of a brush, add a little texture to the epoxy as it sets. You can "draw" concentric circles radiating out from the Marine's legs to simulate the movement of the troop through the water. When the epoxy begins to form "strings" it's time to move on to the next step.
   
8. Before the epoxy sets completely, sprinkle a very fine amount of the Parsley Flake on the surface of the epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure for an hour.
   
9. Paint over the Parsley Flakes with the Gloss Varnish so they look properly wet.
   
   OCEAN BEACH
   
   Shopping List
   
   

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Fine Buff Ballast (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Golden Blonde
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Using superglue, glue the Marine into position.
   
3. Paint the bottom of the base with white glue.
   
4. Fill the hollow with the fine ballast then pour it out so that all of the glue is covered. Allow this to dry completely.
   
5. Paint streaks of white glue across the bottom of the base. These streaks should run perpendicular to the direction of the tide. Sprinkle more ballast over these streaks. This will create a ripple effect in the sand, like you see along beaches.
   
6. Paint the sand with the Brown Sand paint.
   
7. Drybrush the sand with Golden Blonde. You want to paint the tops of the ripples, but leave more of the Brown Sand showing in the bottoms of the ripples.
   
8. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
9. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint the Gloss Gel over the epoxy. Paint the gloss gel over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush create waves by making short, quick strokes just as described under Mountain Creek.

> First - you follow the traces back from the pads, there's a possibility that they go to other, larger, more accessible pads.

the two power traces lead into a pretty chunky component (the rectangular black thing in the youtube) that is pretty accessible, but the two data traces lead into a teeny tiny component (not shown in the youtube, is further south, offscreen) that is in an even tighter spot than the original port location unfortunately.

I guess I could just expose the two data traces somewhere along the line and bridge the gap with very thin wire, but the hardest part would be securing all those little wires to all the tiny pins on the usb micro port, which are placed pretty close together, which makes me nervous.

although if I used the conductive paint to connect these wires rather than solder, it could be much easier. hmmm.

>I've used this technique, complete with silver loaded paint, and it does work. The paint - came in a kit for mending electrically heated car windows.

hm, that's good to hear.

I just bought some of this 2-part silver epoxy off amazon. it got pretty good reviews, and the 10-minute curing time probably gives me enough time to carefully apply it.

I'm going to see if I can use it to connect the port directly to the original trace pads and exposed trace ends, and if that doesn't work, I'll pick up some super thin 40 AWG wire and try to bridge things with that.

Easiest way to fix it. Go to wal-mart or target and buy this or order it from amazon. clean the edges and follow the directions. works perfectly. I did this for 3 of my pieces that broke. It's very clean and will be as good as new. Make sure you don't overapply it so that it oozes out inside. Might be bad for the downstem. It's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Best of luck! toke on

Edit: Epoxy does not melt or dissolve by acetone so you can clean it with acetone after fixing it too! Source
>There are two broad classes of plastics, thermosets and thermoplastics. A thermoplastic can readily be dissolved or melted, while a thermoset cures and changes. Once cured, it forms a tough, crosslinked network which resists solvents and will degrade instead of melting. Epoxy is a thermoset. The advice to trim or slice it off is good. Solvents like acetone or whatever, unless extremely powerful and dangerous, will have little effect on a cured epoxy. Things that easily swell and dissolve epoxies will do the same with rubber or plastic gloves or portions of your anatomy.

You could get some 2-ton epoxy and carefully apply it around the hinges with a small disposable brush (like the ones that come with kid's watercolor paint sets). This stuff cures to be hard as a rock, clear, it adheres nicely to metal, and should provide the support you need. Don't get 5 minute epoxy because that isn't as strong and turns yellow.

Just be sure to carefully measure out equal parts resin and hardener and THOROUGHLY mix them. I mean mix them for like a full 2 minutes. Otherwise the epoxy may not cure properly and might come out tacky.

The epoxy starts to set up in about 30 minutes after you have mixed it, so you will have enough time to apply it to the hinges. After you apply it however, you will want to keep turning the glasses over in your hands otherwise gravity will cause the epoxy to sag. 2-ton epoxy is frequently used as a protective clear coat on custom fishing lures, and lure builders like myself make "turners" like this to prevent sagging. Obviously you're not going to want to build one but you can accomplish the same thing by slowly rotating the glasses around by hand for a minimum of 30 minutes, an hour would be better. After that is done just let it cure however long it says on the package.

depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.

You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy

Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.

Spiffy! Have you considered painting on an epoxy to seal it and improve structural integrity/longevity?

I bought this to coat 3d prints for watertightness and improved finish: "EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 16 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWT156B and it seems like it would be ideal here.

Since it's a really clean break with no missing parts, here wold be my advice:

Get some marine grade epoxy and carefully glue it back together.

Done it on many of my own pieces or friends' pieces - bowls, bubblers, bongs - with no issues. Hell, it's how I fused together my two broken bongs into one massive functional one, and fixed a tree perc in the process. Considering that it's a bubbler and that the break isn't anywhere near where the bowl wold get hot, you're fine using an adhesive. 2-part epoxies are really strong once they cure and the marine-grade one, specifically, states that it can be used on glass and, well, in water scenarios.

Tips would be:

• Gently clean the area with some isopropyl alcohol to make sure there isn't any resin in it and the epoxy has a clean surface to attach to.
  
• Make sure you use the 1:1 ratio that the directions say
  
• Get a good amount of epoxy on both sides before attaching, but not so much that it spills into the air pathway. Don't be afraid to put a little more around the break like an extra support band.
  
• If there are any small gaps/holes from the break, yo can gently fill those with epoxy too. It doesn't look like it, based on your picture, but that's without seeing the full 360 of the break.
  
• Give the epoxy proper curing time. It'll probably be a day or two.
  
• Rinse everything out after it's properly cured. Make sure there's no glass chips to inhale.
  
  After all that, your piece should be totally fine, albeit with a grey epoxy band on it.

Since your title specifies low cost you can save some money by using a wired lav mic like this Audio Technica or this Olympus lav mic. You simply plug it into the camera's mic input. A 3.5mm extension cable might be needed to reach the camera. Use the lav mic with an inexpensive voice recorder if you need the subject to move around. Smart phones have decent audio recording apps too. Syncing the audio in post can be a hassel so only do this if the shot requires being untethered. If you record audio with a separate recorder it helps to mark it by saying a scene number and making a clap sound so you can find it and sync it with the video editing software.

For lighting you might consider an inexpensive LED light and a second battery. Charge one battery while using the other.

I've used clamps like this and this for quick and simple mount of camera and small lights to a chair, windowsill, cupboard, etc. You can use JB Weld to put a 1/4-20 nut-coupler on the light if it doesn't have it already.

edit: I like Canon equipment and their line of Vixia Camcorders starts at around $300 and has a mic input. The lens and image stabilization gets you a nice picture compared to a camera phone or similar "cheap" camera.

IIRC Premiere has a basic mode that uses a simpler timeline more like Apple's iMovie. You can download 30 day trial versions of the latest Adobe products. Give Premiere Elements a try.

> Hey guys, I'm a self-educating DIY electronics fan (not yet too experienced) and I am going to be a volunteer on a makers fair with a goal to lead a workshop for about 40 kids.

> Time: 60 minutes, Budget: about $4, Difficulty: complete beginners, Age: 11+

Fuck, dude. 40 kids, on a $160 budget, all at once... that's a tough ask and it's gonna suck. That's a ton of kids.

I TA'd college sophomores for E&M lab- around 40 kids, 3 hours. You'd be amazed how little progress people make if they're just a little too confused. Even with parents there it's gonna be very hard to get everyone the help they need in one hour, and I'm gonna assume you don't have 40 soldering irons (or even 10-20). If 5 parents have never heard of a soldering iron, 5 more won't pay attention, and 5 will somehow end up grabbing it by the hot end. Anyway, you'll probably want to buy a bunch of mini breadboards. They can also reuse it for other things. Remaining budget: $3.16.

Speaking of reusability- given passives are so cheap, I'd buy plenty extra and give them a goodie bag with a resistor chart and maybe even some basic formulas and diagrams. That way they can keep experimenting at least a little. Generally, I think kids should be using passives and maybe op amps. BJTs are just too hard to use without math, and even 555s are pretty complicated for an 11YO. NAND gates are simple conceptually, but even a large percentage of grown-ass adults in a workshop are gonna lack the focus to figure out which of the 8 indistinguishable pins is the right one to wire up to the other indistinguishable pins. So I'd avoid adders as well, unless they're pre-wired.

Passives at DC are boring. Sorting resistor values is boring. You've gotta try pretty hard to overcome the first and minimize the second. I'm not sure how nerdy and boring this is, but I think one neat idea would be to make an LED controlled by a resistor ladder ADC. It'll require some pretty talented explanation, but if you can successfully do that and build the steps to make it obvious the voltage is halved each time, you're literally showing them how binary works. They can see that and know how a computer translates a binary number into an actual value. You'll have to actually test resistor values to see what visibly changes the LEDs resistance, and it might be better to label the different ladder points by 10s instead of 2s (ie 1 + 10 + 100 + 1000).

I don't think you have enough time and even if you open by stressing that wall voltage will kill you parents may not be a fan of high voltage, but one more complex but way more stunning example would be a Cockroft Walton multiplier. For $2.50 per kid you can get an 18 V supply, which you can turn into AC with a 38 cent LM324N or similar set up as a multivibrator. The remaining 28 cent budget isn't enough to get 5 stages worth of resistors, capacitors and diodes, but if you can swing that then that's ~140 V at the output, and I think it should be able to produce a visible but basically safe arc. It will destroy pretty much any electronics it gets near though. Also if you really tried to get them to understand how it all worked, a multivibrator is like an hour on its own and a doubler cascade is probably another 90 minutes.

Aside from those two I'd try to go for lights (sound would just be cruel to parents) and interactivity. Also, it's too expensive and too slow for this, but NB that conductive epoxy exists- it's actually low enough resistance that you can use it to pass small amounts of current through glued joints.

You could try hobby epoxy. Idk about how the heat generated from it will affect the headphones, or if it even will, but the epoxy I use is significantly stronger than hot glue.

(I crashed my RC plane and ripped the tail completely off and repaired it with epoxy. I crashed it again the next week, and the tail ripped off again, 1 inch away from where it had previously been ripped off. Pretty impressive imo.)

Edit: Here are 2 glues I'd recommend: Epoxy, Super Glue. Watch your fingers, this stuff WILL stick them to anything if you get some on them. (speaking from experience)

Superglue wouldn't hold that.

Your best bets are either 5 minute epoxy, built up as a layer on the inside of the door in order to make the join stronger, or Plastic Weld which will melt the two parts back together but may discolor the clear and painted plastic.

• https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Plastic-Weld-applicator-Bottle/dp/B00FDFWJD8
  
  If you choose to go with the Plastic Weld, you need to be careful as it melts the plastic a bit in order to weld the two parts together. If you let it run it will melt and discolor parts you might not want it to. You should pour just a tiny bit into the cap of the bottle and then use a small natural bristle paintbrush to brush the edges of the parts with the solvent, let them sit for a few seconds and then push them together and hold them for 5 seconds until they are bonded, and then if necessary brush a little more Plastic Weld over the joint to help seal the pieces together.

It looks like there isn't any screws in that hinge. Whoever made this likely just used an adhesive.

This Devcon glass epoxy dries clear, and is pretty strong for glass to metal joints.

Whichever route you take, please post pics here. I'm interested in it myself

Gorilla 2-part Epoxy Clear

I guess you can use Super Glue if you are not comfortable with epoxy. Maybe better would be the gel type of super glue. It's just that super glue by nature is not as sturdy when it comes to "shock" strains like should it get dropped or of you slam the detolf door hard enough. Just make sure the superglue is well and dry before putting it in the detolf case as superglue has a tendency to fog up glass.

The glass doesn't get extremely hot, but it does get pretty warm when you're lighting the bowl, so I don't trust glues. I would use JB Weld, it's extremely strong, water resistant and heat resistant up to 500 degrees F. It won't last if you put the flame right to it, but it will easily handle the low heat from the bowl. Make sure to lather it on thick on the the broken edges, and around the outside to create a support. it won't be super clean, but if you lather on enough it can be sanded down to be smoother.

Awesome thank you so much! I'm just starting to watch videos and learn what I can. I am wanting to start attempting to make the exact size and kind of "coaster" you have in this video for Christmas gifts.

So, far I have the following in my "Shopping List"

• Jacquard Acid-Free Color Exciter Pack Ink
  
• 5 Pack Design Resin Mold
  
• 13 Box Mixed Glitter and Flakes
  
• Art Resin (for starting out)
  
  Are there any of these you would go with or without or a different brand? Am I missing any key ingredients? I've been trying to watch only videos where they list what they are using. I also need to get my head wrapped around how much resin to use and how each color reacts with it.
  
  What I'm doing doesn't need to be fancy. I just want to create something unique and nice for coworkers and family.

???

It’s pretty common. I’ve made belt buckles out of it.

Simple amazon search:

EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 16 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWT156B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DguHzbHFXJ16E

If you must use super glue, then Loctite is my favorite. However it is brittle and sometimes has problems binding to certain types of plastic.

Epoxy works much better for metal or pewter figurines. For most plastics Tenax 7r is the best.

It's fairly easy if you are just replacing a standard plate with another standard plate. (Mounting on virgin boots, doing a short-forward mount, or things like that get a bit more technical)

Chances are you will need to drill new holes in your boot (often you can get 1 or 2 holes to line up, which is a good starting point). What you want to do is match the centerline of the old plate (kingpin-to-kingpin in the case of a non-symmetrical plate) with your new plate, and marking the axle and toe stop locations on the side of the sole is a good reference for the front-to-back placement.

I use a two-part epoxy stick to fill the old holes.

There was a good beginner's guide that was published in Five on Five a few years ago.

So. That holder doesn't seem to be the right one for that shower head.

How nice are you wanting this to look vs. the level of function vs. cost and effort you want to put in?

If you want FUNCTIONAL only... I would recommend a big-ass carabiner and some good 2-part epoxy for metal. put the carabiner on that hangar with the epoxy and let that operate as your holder from now one.

• Pros: It works. You don't have to dick with removing the current hangar and trying to find a new one.
  
  
• Cons: It will look kinda like ass.
  
  Alternative 2: Find a new showerhead mount. Look at the measurements of the products vs. those of the handle on your showerhead. Make sure it fits. Follow the instructions to mount it. TAKE SPECIAL CARE that you either use drywall anchors (which should probably come with the device), or drill it directly into a stud.
  
  
  Shower Curtain: This is a bit more difficult, because of the positioning of the window and the sink. I would recommend mounting your shower curtain from the ceiling using these. Again, use the mounting instructions that come with them. And for god's sake, when mounting into the ceiling, use drywall anchors. Past that, just get a rod and curtain.
  
  
  Tools needed for this endeavor include: Small batter operated drill/screwdriver. They are all over amazon for <$50. In fact, if you are TRULY a beginner, here is a cool little set for you. You aren't going to be building any houses with it, but it has some basics you will need around the house. If any of these break, that shows you that you use it enough to warrant something more expensive.

I've had a few pairs of shoes do this to me, including a pair of platform Demonias. I found that epoxy (this stuff) worked really well to keep the sole on. When mine did it, only the sole came off, and the bottom part of the place where you put your foot stayed whole. Hopefully yours didn't rip or anything. If they did, I don't think epoxy will help without creating uncomfortable bumps under your feet. Good luck!

This can be fixed.

Use some epoxy do not use glue. Glue sucks, even gorilla or super glue hasn't got shit on epoxy.

I swear to you, if prepared and applied properly, the bond with the JB Weld linked for you will be stronger than the damn plastic after you let it set for 24 hours.

If the plastic breaks again, it won't be where you used the JB Weld. The shit is insane.

I'll definitely make a post and show it off once I'm done, I think it's going to look pretty badass if it turns out like I'm hoping.

Also just went ahead and ordered a tube of this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Z3C3AG

Not sure I trust the name as much as JB Weld or Loctite, but it supposedly dries crystal clear and I like the idea of that.

The inexpensive Whippeddog Handle at $6.00 and The Golden Nib Standard Silvertip Badger Knot at 20.95 or any of their other knots would be a good choice. You can glue the knot into the handle with Waterproof Epoxy - Setting a Brush Knot. I have several brushes with TGN Knots, they are great, soft tips and good backbone. A 24mm Silvertip Badger brush for $26.95

Yeah, this is recommended on another 3d printing thread I'm probably going to buy some and try it out myself :)

Amazon links, you are looking for FDA safe epoxies.

[link1] (https://www.amazon.com/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J16MYSE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474585448&sr=8-6&keywords=FDA+epoxy)

[link2] (https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-resin/dp/B013H6OTPK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474585448&sr=8-4&keywords=FDA+epoxy)

edit: I wonder if copper infused filament would be food safe? It is naturally antibacterial.

Great list!
just placed an order for the Instamorph, I can think of a lot of things I can use it for.

another good thing to keep handy is JB Weld, it has saved me countless times.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416784847&sr=1-1

Great project, looks great!

As a suggestion for future work (one I used on my own desk)
look into epoxy. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Epoxy-Encapsulating-Casting-Gallon/dp/B00IT0APVM

Cheap, easy to use, and gets a great finish with much less sanding/recoating. It can discolor if exposed to UV, but generally, that isn't an issue for indoor applications.

Edit: You made me want to post mine https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/5nysq1/my_custom_bambooplywood_desk_build/

I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BDMJSY/

TBH, I mostly used it cause the archeology lab in my department happened to have it lying around and one was about to expire. I would have soldered the connections but that would have required drilling two tiny holes into each buttons to gain access and I was feeling lazy. That would have been a more reversible option, which I honestly wish I did just in case I want to change the switches out in the future.

Epoxy won't be conductive if you're buying regular epoxy. The stuff that is conductive is specifically labeled as such. Silver is a precious metal. They aren't going to add it to normal epoxy glue just for fun.

Compare these for an example:
MG Chemicals Silver Epoxy Adhesive - High Conductivity, 10 min working time, 14 g, Dual Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BDMJSY

Bob Smith Industries BSI-201 Clear Quik-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFFD4

EDIT: My first knife BUILD

This was an awesome experience! The most important thing I learned was to make sure to tape far enough down the blade to prevent the epoxy from getting on the blade. :/

Blank: https://www.amazon.com/Condor-Knife-Bushlore-Blade-Silver/dp/B00WTH01K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465848087&sr=8-1&keywords=condor+bushlore+blank

Scales: http://www.rockler.com/bolivian-rosewood-by-the-piece-1-4-thickness?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CN7e6_m3yM0CFUFehgodNFUMkA

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O8QQ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pins: https://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-Finish-Extruded-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CNLVD1E

Finish: Natural Danish Oil

JB High Heat I've used JB Weld and JB Kwik a lot, but I haven't tried JB High Heat. The cure time is slow enough that you'd need to clip or support the metal strips in place somehow, but it will easily withstand the temperature. JB Kwik cures fast enough that you could probably hold the pieces in place while it sets up, but 300 is the upper limit of its temperature tolerance from what I've read.

Not *exactly* what you're looking for, but I've had a similar situation with dry rot. There are wood reinforcing products that penetrate the wood (it acts like a wick) and restore integrity. Here's a starting point for your research: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DYN1B0 Here's something similar: https://www.amazon.com/System-Three-Resins-646697001380-Window/dp/B0015YLMUW

Do not use super glue. This will look like garbage, especially if this a plastic or acrylic surface. You can try applying drops of clear epoxy with a fine point as water droplets OVER a matte spray. If its over the spray then it should come clear again (All of the little cavities in the matte spray will be filled in assuming you do this in warmer temps).

Link for clear resin epoxy:
https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CRYSTAL-COATING-TABLETOPS/dp/B01LWT156B/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510181305&sr=8-3&keywords=Clear+epoxy

Has anyone used plumber's putty on higher-draw weight bows to modify the grip?

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=pd_day0_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BOB8P6&pd_rd_r=S17AZ1QRQP3XHQ8KA3MM&pd_rd_w=xNmzf&pd_rd_wg=Qfnqa&psc=1&refRID=S17AZ1QRQP3XHQ8KA3MM&dpID=51eSZk39EIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Alternatively, would I be better off using something like Sugru and just build up a bunch of it?

I've got a 60 lb. takedown longbow that I'll be putting this on (it's got a high-wrist grip, I want to change it to a low-wrist grip)-- just want to make sure that it's not going to crack in half as I draw the bow!

Disposable or a couple solutions. (with creativity and persuasion). I've seen some FDA approved food safe resin. acetone smoothing, or a polymaker polysher. personally i would go for the resin or some xtc3d

EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 16 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWT156B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mF4MBb28WHGH6

EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 16 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWT156B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jAc7yb325RB6G

Buy the Jeff Bezos model
Garden Torch
JB Weld
Airsoft Rifle

If you want an actual flame thrower then give your money to these people X15

Or fill a super soaker with gasoline and save $500.

I honestly used aquarium safe epoxy because I had some left over.


I've used

https://www.amazon.ca/Pond-Armor-SKU-CLEAR-QT-R-Non-Toxic-1-5-Quart/dp/B00D317Q46/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502734651&sr=1-1&keywords=pond+epoxy


I'd recommend

https://www.amazon.ca/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J166GM4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502734602&sr=8-4&keywords=food+grade+epoxy

Edit: you cant bake with it, but it'll be dishwasher safe.

MAX CLEAR GRADE Epoxy Resin System - 48oz. Kit - Food Safe, FDA Compliant Coating, Crystal Clear, Stain Resistant, Countertop and Tabletop Coatings, Wood Coatings, Fiberglassing Resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J16MYSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lgB6CbQBNK2DX

Oh yeah. If you need more filling and/or stronger joint, you can get some fiberglass cloth and cut it/tear it into a bunch of 1/4" loose fibers and mix it into the epoxy. Be sure to scuff up the plastic with sandpaper and clean with alcohol for good adhesion.

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-201-Quik-Cure/dp/B0166FFFD4

Fiberglass cloth: https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-20128-Fiberglass-Cloth-sq/dp/B002JRGOT8/

I'm guessing it's very cheap materials.. I actually had it in a bike shop about 3 weeks back, as I had a recurring puncture problem! And the guy said so much then! I'm hoping I can at least get it to last till the summer, as I'm in my final year of Uni, so as soon as I start working properly, I'll be able to invest in something a bit nicer!

I think it has a square taper, as that's the shape of the bit that slots into the gear bit, if that makes sense?? But I have minimal access to tools, so haven't even managed to get the dust covers off the crank or anything!

I think I might try the epoxy way, and see if it can last the next few weeks at least, as money is really tight at the moment, and I won't be able to afford to get it repaired/ replaced for a few weeks!

At the moment, I've wrapped some fabric tape I had lying around around the thread on the pedal, leaving the top half uncovered, and screwed it back in, and it's holding a lot better than it was! I'm almost not happy to try using it though, as I cycle in Glasgow, and if it did fall off when I was flying down a busy road, then it could be pretty dangerous!

Will look into the epoxy route for now though, with aims to get it replaced when I can! Cheers for the help!

Just been looking and found this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Steel-Reinforced-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1416764708&sr=1-3&keywords=J-B+Weld

Is this the sort of thing I should try?

You need what's called an epoxy resin. They usually come in two parts that you mix together and pour before it hardens. They can be a bit tricky to work with too, so you might want to do some research before you dive in. Something like this (sorry for the link, on mobile).

Clear Epoxy Resin for Bar Tops, Encapsulating, or Casting (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IT0APVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wx2SzbZVJH54W

If the cracked lid casing is the common problem shown in the photograph here there's a pretty easy fix:

Apply a small spot of J-B Weld embedded with a small finishing nail laid across the break for extra reinforcement in the area shown in the photograph here.

You just need to remove the screen bezel and temporarily push aside the antenna wires. Make sure everything is aligned and let it set up for about 24 hours and the bond will be virtually impossible to break. I've done this on a number of X220 and X230 units and it holds up really well.

Check out JB Weld. Best damn epoxy ever. Used it to fix a similar problem on an old Dell. Just make sure you clean and sand each piece you apply it to. The sanding is to rough up the surface so you get a better bond.

Pro tip: use this stuff called Quiksteel it's a epoxy/putty and it's exactly what you need and it won't fuck your lungs up when you smoke. Good luck!

They make foam safe Super glue but I prefer two part epoxies it’s not as runny and forms a much stronger bond. https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-201-Quik-Cure/dp/B0166FFFD4

This is a popular method. Also, if it doesn't work, you can use something like JB Weld Epoxy (thanks /u/Boomerkuwanga) to attach another small screw to the top of it, let it set, then screw it out with whatever normal driver works for the screw you attached. I'd heard of this method using superglue, but apparently the JB weld is much better!

The $6 fix; JB Weld epoxy.

The bond will end up being stronger than the plastic. It might look a little ugly, but for $6 it's the best option as far as price/performance.

First of all, are the cracks down near the bottom corners? If so, there is something you can try. I've seen a "repair," but it was on a polycarbonate container, not on the Tritan material, which your container is, assuming it is a home model from 7-10 years ago. So I'm not if it will work, but you could try it. The repair I saw used JB Weld to reinforce the outside of the corners. I don't know if the JB Weld sticks better to polycarbonate than Tritan, but it's worth a shot if you are looking for a repair.

The other thing you can do is look for a container without blade and lid, and transfer over your blade assembly. There's a wrench you can buy specifically for the task, or you can jury rig something. You have to be careful not to under or over tighten.

KennKatastrophe is right that Vitamix would just replace the container shell.

I used some store brand two part epoxy, with a 5 minute cure time. Doesn't give much time for assembly, so you have to mix small bits at a time, but when it cures, its solid.

Something like this will work just fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQWY8Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a totally off the wall idea. I have never worked with it myself. But what about creating shallow molds and using poured clear acrylic resin to create your own resin sheets? I have no idea if this would work for you, but people make clear countertops out of the stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0B9O-o5bMs

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-cast-acrylic-resin

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Epoxy-Encapsulating-Casting-Gallon/dp/B00IT0APVM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495379484&sr=8-2&keywords=acrylic+resin+kit

This sounds like you only had one problem - you don't have epoxy - you should always have, if anything else, a little dual squeeze tube of locktite (or any) two part oil resin based epoxy. This is basically a pantry item, like (quality) duct tape or super glue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001Z3C3AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487817131&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=epoxy

Super glue maybe? Maybe check out an adhesive called JB Weld . It’s an all-purpose adhesive that works surprisingly well, especially on items that don’t take a lot of strain or pressure.

you can use this shit to bond metal. it would be stronger than thin solder, imho. you can sand this when dry, with a fine sandpaper to a smooth finish. it’s nasty to work with, mixing it with the fingers, but it’s amazing stuff. rough up any metal surfaces that will come into contact with the product by scraping it on cement or a metal file or sandpaper first.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOB8P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While I know it exists and the process I haven't tried enough types to have much of an opinion.
But this stuff works pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JNDRXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R.7KDbW2FPV8T

I would advise against welding, mainly because of the low melting point of brass. I don't know how your piece is laid out, but I imagine that it would be difficult to keep the heat away from the brass while trying to weld the steel together.

Soldering could work, I don't see why it wouldn't albeit a little frustrating. Brazing is something that came to mind. Another is J.B. Weld. I haven't used J.B. Weld for sealing jump rings, but I've used it as weld filler in a pinch.

Good luck!

Of course someone can make it on their own. You don't even have an argument there. All that is is a bump. I'm pretty sure I could make a bump I'm for banning bump stocks too, but I'm not naive enough to think it'll do that much

and lets not forget that to even get to this point we have banned all semiautomatic firearms, and are now placing additional restrictions as well. Pretty close to repealing the second amendment.

Food safe (direct contact) resin:

https://www.amazon.com/MAX-CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-System/dp/B01J16MYSE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=max+clr&qid=1569852392&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I would prefer silicone since resins have BPA in them. However, I have yet to find a food safe silicone coating. Silicone conformal sprays are more for water proofing electronics so food safety isn't a feature of them.

Just off the top of my head, Epoxy Resin. I used it on a bar top and it looks great and very durable. Amazon link
Says you can use it for counters but it's not the easiest thing to apply. You have to be very careful not to get air bubbles while it dries and be careful with the sides.

Looks like the solder pads ripped off the PCB. You can attempt to scrape away the green mask and solder a new jack there, but its pretty difficult and you need to be good with a soldering iron.

Do you have any soldering equipment?

There are also conductive epoxies avaliable which you can use to glue the connector to what's left of the trace, but they are expensive and you haveto be careful to no short anything out: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Two-Part-Conductive-Adhesive/dp/B008UH4DB2

If it were my house I would just fix it and replace later if I ever remodeled that bathroom. Since you are a renter its a bit different though as the land lord might not be happy with your diy fix.

If you do go DIY then look at products meant for boats. Some epoxy resin thickened with reinforcing fibers and topped with gel coat repair that is the same color would produce a fix that would be hard to detect if you are somewhat careful. It would most definitely cost you less than $100

Edit:

If you really want to go cheap and don't care too much about it being a perfect fix, get some of this https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50172-MarineWeld-Adhesive/dp/B00R2CDVIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535817967&sr=8-2&keywords=white+marine+epoxy
and pack it into the crack with a popsicle stick and smooth out the surface

What you want is called "potting compound" or "potting epoxy." It's usually black. Here's some cheap stuff in a small quantity: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-832HD-Black-Encapsulating/dp/B073JNDRXJ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=potting+epoxy&qid=1564158629&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They sell single-component potting epoxies that cure with heat or UV as well.

If we're not talking crazy stuff (in terms of heat, voltage, etc.), then regular old "five minute" epoxy from the hardware store will work fine. Just don't use JB weld or other "reinforced" epoxies, since the reinforcement media might be conductive. You can check the material datasheets to be sure - it usually contains info on heat resistance, dielectric properties, etc..

If you are working with high voltage and/or high-power stuff...well, you probably know what you're doing and don't need my help, haha.

Personally, I usually use this stuff. It's not even a true "epoxy", but it works fine for what I do: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Amazing-Goop-144100-Trim-Repair-Adhesive-1-fl-oz/

I just tried it myself for the first time and was quite proud of the results...
Imgur
I used 30-minute epoxy to give me plenty of working time and applied just a tiny bit at a time to give it a chance to spread over the entire area I wanted it to cover. Use a toothpick to both apply and remove any excess epoxy.
Here is the tutorial I watched before I tried it myself.

I was speaking specifically of epoxy putty like this, this or this. Will that stuff not work because it might get too hard when dry? Would the silicone actually be better in this case?

hahaha, you can find decent deals I've been using this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IT0APVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is actually not bad so far. Can't speak to it's longevity yet.

Been using this JB weld epoxy without an issue, but I dont want or need instant seal but a strong seal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EU5ZM0/

You're thinking of something like a resin tabletop? (This is one of the most often referred to)[https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Non-toxic-ArtResin®-Resin-Starter/dp/B011T3CWPC]. It is doable, but honestly I don't think enough people would be willing to pay for how expensive they would need to be. Using the stuff is a very time intensive task.

Yes, get some epoxy putty, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-431348-Multi-Purpose-Repair/dp/B000BOB8P6 Used it to fix a very similar problem on my 7509HDs, solid as a rock now. Make sure to scrape the plastic a bit before you apply it so it binds well - wrap it around the broken area. I also painted it black afterwards, doesn't look too bad.

Edit: Here's a decent tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-Fix-Bose-Headphones/

Stronger repair - http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465149984&sr=8-1&keywords=epoxy+putty

Local hardware stores should have putty epoxy sticks like this for $2-3

Hand vise: IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed Bar Clamp, Heavy-Duty, 6", 1964711 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VND4X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SKWbD2mBTHRZ9

Steel plates: Round Hot Rolled Steel Plate 1/4" x 4" Diameter Circle (Pack of 2!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YWBU1P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mdufzb3Q4YDXK

Epoxy: J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ieufzbQD017AS

And turns out my stove is way easier to heat up the steel plates. But if you're interested in a heat gun I bought this one: Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pfufzbAPGCZ11


Sorry about the formatting, I'm on mobile

hope grad school is going well gabs

I've had the same issue before, fixed it with this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Compound-Twin/dp/B0006O1ICE/

You probably should use something like this then:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Part-Electrically-Conductive-Silver-Adhesive/dp/B003BDMJSY

But you may need to search for some other options. Not sure how hot you think your mosfets will get, but that particular epoxy should hold up to like 300F.

Okay thanks. I'm leaning towards this one since it says its temp resistant up to 500F, waterproof, and is nontoxic after setting.

Epoxy. I like Devcon 2 Ton. Bonds anything to anything. Just make sure you don't use too much; a little really goes a long way.

Ding All is overkill for this repair. This is very easy to repair with Epoxy putty that is cheaper and just as durable (if not more) with this size ding. You can get it from a paddle/surf shop for $12 to $15 a tube or get the exact same thing from HomeDepot or Lowes for half the price under Loctite or JBWeld. I keep a tube with me whenever I go out for emergency repairs to keep it water tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8277-White-Pack/dp/B000BRQ0TW/

​

BluePlanet has decent video showing how to do it. Their Ding Stick is the same stuff as above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5SPbD-te7o

​

After it dries give the area some sanding. Start around 150 - 180 grit then finish ultra fine, like 220 grit or higher. I've used it a few times on a yellow Naish board, then hit the spot with some Krylon and it's hard to see the repair.

​

If you are looking for something more cost effective than Sugru (which is great, but not cheap) you can try an epoxy putty.

This product when properly applied will stop leaks for years to come. Good luck. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498447473&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+putty

Before you replace it, I would attempt to repair it using 2 part epoxy.

I am partial to the "JB Weld" brand, and this variety is perfect for a repair such as this...

Do you think something like this [high heat putty expoxy] (https://www.amazon.ca/Weld-8297-HighHeat-Degree-Epoxy/dp/B007PP26RI) would work well?

use epoxy, they sell it on amazon for a good $8.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EU5ZM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is the link to the one I used in my down stem repair on my bong.
http://www.reddit.com/r/StonerEngineering/comments/2f2lpz/repaired_my_broken_downstem_on_bong/

Superglue is not a good choice for repairs like this.

Use an industrial epoxy like JB Weld
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

Do you think something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J166GM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LAqazbPS0VDKD

I've heard of people using resin like this for finishing 3D printed objects that are intended for food contact as 3D printing is inherently not food safe either

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541767455&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gorilla+glue+5+minute+epoxy

Its kinda expensive so i dont recommend for large terrain. But it dries crystal clear. Adding a drop of paint will give it more than enougj color and make it much easier to pour

Since everyone else is weighing in: where are the weapons failing? If you tell us what you have to fix over and over we might be able to offer some advice on that in specific.

My generic club advice:

• VSM boxes and bungee cord reels. Cheap, excellent features on the VSM, very durable.
  
  
• LP non-FIE epee blades (sadly, this will be an all-epee recommendation list); Absolute house brand blades for cheap traditional feeling blades; StM FIE for an economical alternative to BF.
  
  
• LP epee body cords. Well worth the money, they never break.
  
  
• German barrels and tips, Absolute brand house epee wires. They don't have the stupid 'volcano' tips. If you're really on a budget just switch to AF house brand wires and keep the french barrels and tips, there's not much difference.
  
  
• NEPS epee screws. Just brilliant.
  
  
• Or, get a bunch of zip tips. They last a long time and hold the contact spring really well, and they're easy to take out and put back in. Good product, inept marketing.
  
  
• Glue wires with self-mix two part epoxy, not CA glue. Lasts much better.
  
  
• Get the club involved. If you fix everything they'll just keep beating it up. Have pre-competition weapons parties, mandatory work days, insist that everyone there more than a year can at least take a tip apart, set travel, and put it back together.
  
  
• BG 350N synthetic uniforms. I like the unlined ones. These are a little nicer than the Absolute, IME. NO COTTON.
  
  
• Get a sewing machine and learn to replace a zipper. This isn't something everyone has to be able to do, but most college clubs have a pile of useless uniforms that only need a $5 zipper to be usable again.

Use some putty stuff like this.

I love that stuff, use it on all kinds of shit. Even fixed a crack in my upper intake manifold.

Do you still have the pieces? If it didn't shatter into tiny pieces, you could definitely try to reconstruct it and glue it back together with JB Weld.

I wouldn't recommend using that particular adhesive, for decent conduction you'll want an epoxy-style adhesive I've found.

That stuff is even more expensive. http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Two-Part-Conductive-Adhesive/dp/B008UH4DB2

Some of the drugs I'm on cause pretty severe hand tremors and I'm still able to solder pretty easily. I think you'll live. Soldering burns hurt like a motherfucker, but they don't hurt very long.

is it aluminum body or carbon fiber if its an alloy get some jbweld, i used it to weld fittings to 2 stroke rc car mufflers that had high temps and it held grate

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

apparently there marine weld is good for composites

That's too funny. This stuff

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006O1ICE/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

like this? https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482113709&sr=8-1&keywords=two+part+epoxy

PETG is actually food safe, but the lamination lines will trap food that will spoil.

This epoxy resin is food safe, as are several others

https://www.amazon.com/MAX-CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-System/dp/B01J16MYSE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=food+safe+resin&qid=1567106734&s=gateway&sprefix=food+safe+resin&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPNEk5MjY4MERTTEsmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5OTA1MjIySTQ3WEpURE5HREREJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzODQ4NDhLRUM1RDJUSldPSjYmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You could always coat it with clear food grade resin. Here is on I found on amazon.

Edit- Make sure you read the labels to see what kind of food contact it can have. Some things are fine for dry food but not liquids.

I bought this a few min ago. http://thistothat.com doesn't even have epoxies so I figured that epoxies are probably just as strong if not stronger than those.

The hole was about the size of a quarter right near the slot for the trigger on the bottom. I had this JB weld putty that is more like clay than the regular liquid JB weld. It was this stuff -

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496607157&sr=8-6&keywords=jb+weld

Definitely not cheap, but not that expensive.

If you can just pop it back on, and you really want to salvage the lid, I'd try high-temp epoxy before giving up. I wouldn't personally worry about it being food-safe, since it's not going to be in direct contact with the contents of the pan.

Just pop the handle back on, mold a decent amount of the putty over the connections, and let it cure thoroughly before use.

Alternately, there's food-safe silicone, which might be easier to work with, though it might not hold up as well under use.

Just don't put either in the oven. They're both supposed to hold up to 400-500F, but I wouldn't trust 'em.

I’d take it apart a little bit, so you can easily get to the areas you need to, and use some J-B Weld to glue it back together.

I found the same on my Mini Hilal. I'm going to try using JB Weld.
J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy Syringe - Dries Clear - 25 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_PppRwbFNCJ3H8

Some kind of epoxy maybe, but when it comes to gluing things, the materials involved are really important.

I would get an adapter like this and epoxy it into the hole using JB-Weld or something similarly temperature resistant.

Yup, available at your regular auto parts stores like AutoZone and Pep Boys.

Thank you for reminding me, I wanted to put up a link.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8297-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B007PP26RI

Maybe dip them in epoxy like this stuff

hmm might make the paper too floppy maybe spray and then brush on some epoxy.

Super Glue will either frost look or not glue to painted points.

I use http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-4200101-Epoxy/dp/B001Z3C3AG put a dot of glue -- enough to not smoosh out then wrap a rubber band the head. Let it set for how ever long the written directions say for. Thats how we glue parts on GKs but minus drilling a hole and putting a pin joint to glue it steady, but I don't think its necessary at the moment.

What about that 2-part clay compound that hardens into an almost metal like toughness? It could be molded over the bow where its broken and would hold it pretty fast.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM

I'll take a look. I toyed with the idea of selling cookie cutters on Etsy earlier this year, but got super depressed midway during the design phase and never made it to sealing. I got close to a finished model for a few of my designs, but found the gaps around the edges discouraging.

Something like this should work, but you can probably find a cheaper version at Michaels or somewhere.

I second the PETG idea, though. PETG is usually food-safe (we've got a PETG neti pot we bought at the pharmacy, and that goes in your nose), and it holds up to higher temperatures better than PLA so you could totally throw it in the dishwasher.

The other thing you want to be careful of is the brass nozzles might sometimes leach bad chemicals into your cutter. You can get stainless steel nozzles, but they're a bit pricier? They'd be a lot safer, though if you're extremely worried you might want to do the old "into a pot of boiling water" trick to sanitize them.

This is a really precarious spot on the X220 and X230 lids. I've managed to repair a few that had this same issue.

I used a small spot of J-B Weld imbedded with a small finishing nail laid across the break for extra reinforcement in the area shown in the photograph here. You just need to remove the screen bezel and temporarily push aside the antenna wires. Make sure everything is aligned and let it set up for about 24 hours and the bond will be virtually impossible to break.

This is a really precarious spot on the X220 and X230 lids. I've managed to repair a few that had this same issue.

I used a small spot of J-B Weld imbedded with a small finishing nail laid across the break for extra reinforcement in the area shown in the photograph here.

You just need to remove the screen bezel and temporarily push aside the antenna wires. Make sure everything is aligned and let it set up for about 24 hours and the bond will be virtually impossible to break.

Be sure to fill the key hole with JB Weld.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411669575&sr=8-2&keywords=jb+weld

Would something like this do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Z3C3AG

you can solder the snapped cable if you can get enough exposed to make a good joint, but the frame is broken at a point that is constantly under pressure (which is probably why it broke) and if you use solder to join the ends it will just shear again.

I wonder how the broken frame will hold up with something like this. I have never used it to fix headphones but have been pleased with how well steel-reinforced epoxy works in other high-stress applications.

Hmm... yeah it sounds like a dowel won't work. The only other thing I know of that would fill a cavity, bond two surfaces, and hold a screw would be epoxy. Depending on the situation, you may need to do this in steps, and I would definitely pre-drill for the screw, but not sure how to do that if you don't have a drill. I've personally never used epoxy, but something similar to this should work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG

You might be able to find a video or other tutorial showing the use of epoxy on furniture repairs.

Slow-setting epoxy is an alternative. This one has been serving me well.

I prefer the putty, you can gt some inside, some outside, sand it down, and paint it.

This is what "mighty putty" is.

Drill some holes on each side of the broken part and file the plastic down to be thinner. Get some 4000psi+ epoxy like this ( www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZM0 ) and shape it to how it should look. Make sure to get it through all the holes you drilled so that it has places to hold onto for strength. Wrap it in wax paper and clamp it to hold the broken part together.

Once it dries just file it down to size.

It's usually something along the lines of bar top epoxy.

The adapter pack you'd need to mount to any rail is $5 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O1ICE/

this was the epoxy we tried, this is another kind we have on-hand that is just too unwieldy/thick to do a job like this.

Is this the kind you're referring to that does work? I never really tried it, thinking it would be similar in effect to the epoxy glue. There's just so much torsion on that location, I worry about how well it would hold.

I should also mention that this is a college help desk and we provide our services 100% free of charge--the only thing the students pay is for the actual cost of parts. It's all about getting them back up and running as economically as possible, since most of the students are broke and just want it back to a functional level so they can write papers, skype, and facebook again. So while negative goodwill (badwill?) is something I'd like to avoid, it's not like we're worried about losing profit or anything as a result.

It seems like you'd need a pretty low viscosity product that could be poured down into the voids. I think most of the rotten wood repair products I've seen are much thicker, more putty-like in consistency.

Although a lower viscosity product might just seep and run through the cracks and out the sides unless you contained it somehow . . . maybe a couple of tightly wrapped layers of that stretch-wrap used by movers/packers?

This seems like it might do the trick?
https://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-Terminator-Two-Part-Consolidant/dp/B008DYN1B0/ref=pd_sim_328_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51tU9ZITdlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=REYBDD3CVFB3X4ER9ZRF

JB weld is an epoxy. You can buy a tube for like 6 or 7 bucks. It doesn't require welding. I've removed dozens of stripped screws with this stuff.

I just googled food saw epoxy and this one here is supposed to be FDA compliant.

Why did the chemical engineer say he wouldn’t want to eat out of anything with epoxy?

I bet that J B Weld would hold that. That's a "cold welding" substance, you mix the stuff in the two tubes together and stick the broken sections back together with it.

That stuff does have its limitations under loads, but I've used it for things before that carried more weight and it held just fine.

Ah, I have never dealt with any Fractal cases. Looking at the pics on their site, I see it's not to simple to put a rad on the front since they just use that plastic bracket to hold the fans in. A 280 rad would fit, problem would be how to mount it. If still want it there, you could try some epoxy putty to fill in the gaps and get it to stay after removing all the bracket. Just mount the rad to the case, not the fans attached to the rad to the case.

Go pro and use JB Weld. Superglue is amateur.

I would glue the heck out of that junk.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O1ICE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7VgCxbJXY6KS5

Get some JB Weld and epoxy it back together. I did this with a microwave oven handle and it lasted over ten years. Available at your local *Mart store.

You're looking at $125 to fix it. #8 in the diagram

One-day shipping available. ;)

https://www.amazon.ca/Weld-8265S-Compound-Epoxy-Twin-Pack/dp/B0006O1ICE

Maybe some jb weld stuff: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

That's quick curing so I wouldn't use that, but I also have never used that product before either, I just know in general the faster curing stuff is more brittle. just the old school JB weld is what i was thinking.

Equipment:

4 oz clear-top tins

3 small 6mmx1.5mm neodymium magnets per tin

Epoxy

It might be a little overkill but.... JB Weld would work.

• clamp it with anything. basically, just make it so it stays still and the pieces are as close together as possible.
  
  
• this is J-B Weld. Available at any hardware store.
  
  
• I'd take a gob of it and fill it into the crack. Think of fixing a hole in a section of drywall.
  
  
• let it dry (about 6 hours) and then use sandpaper/file to make it smooth and flush with the rest of the edge.
  
  
• paint it black.
  
  It won't have the same texture and will look a bit ghetto. But it will get the job done.

Try using jb weld or some other type of concrete paste and paste the rod to a drum key. You'll have to throw away the drum key, but it is just an idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-31345-Ton-Clear-Epoxy/dp/B0006O8QQ0

A hardware store. It's this stuff. Not expensive at all.

You mean the little keyboard feet that raises up the back?
Just repair it

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=lp_256244011_1_10?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524385833&sr=1-10

Here is the mobile version of your link

lead weights

glue

Alternatively, you can just buy the epoxy and glue the toaster to the table.

this

Epoxy gorilla glue, https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG

I waited 24 hours after application to move her.

they basically used the equivalent of this on a priceless ancient Egyptian artifact.

Some sort of epoxy might work.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4200101-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525929780&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+epoxy

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Z3C3AG/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bHLAlv_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=RRZQ030G27SHF15P8SYW&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=0a3c6581-feb2-509a-bd74-91d7d12a5759&pf_rd_i=256244011

Use an epoxy that can withstand high temperatures. i. e. Gorrila Glue Epoxy

You could give this a try for attaching it to your smoker.

Though this is marketed as conductive, without testing others you don't know that they're not conductive.

Me too; googled it and it's not. This is though

JB Weld is my go to for epoxy or adhesives: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50112-ClearWeld-Quick-Setting/dp/B009EU5ZM0

I've used epoxy from the same syringe probably 5 or 6 times without issue. Note that you will have to mix the stuff from both sides before use - this is likely why it is reusable.

This:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Clear-Quick-Setting-Epoxy/dp/B009EU5ZM0/

Maybe look into JB weld, or some kind of epoxy?

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50112-ClearWeld-Quick-Setting/dp/B009EU5ZM0

syringes? This is what you need man https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Epoxy-Encapsulating-Casting-Gallon/dp/B00IT0APVM

http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Epoxy-Encapsulating-Casting-Gallon/dp/B00IT0APVM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453945308&sr=8-3&keywords=clear+acrylic+resin This one says for casting.

You may be able to fill it with epoxy. Find a food-safe one. https://www.amazon.com/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J16MYSE

They do. https://www.amazon.com/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J16MYSE

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Black-Encapsulating-Compound/dp/B073JNDRXJ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2UIWXI428VZR7&keywords=potting+compound&qid=1569736805&s=gateway&sprefix=potting+co%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-9

I had a thin 4 inch long crack in my XC70 oil pan which leaked oil within 20 minutes. I drained the oil out of the car, let the crack drain out fully, cleaned the outside of the pan and coated almost the entire outside of the oil pan with JB weld. This was 20,000 KM ago and the JB weld is holding strong with no sign of giving up. I also fixed a snow blower engine which had a crack in the head with JB weld many years ago, that snow blower still works.
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

I was able to repair the magnesium base of my X220 using J-B Weld.

It was a bit tricky to get the pieces to sit in the proper position while it cured, but the resulting bond has been really sturdy.

https://www.amazon.com/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J16MYSE

Not just any epoxy. Should be good grade. And if you’re using the glasses from alcohol or acidic drinks, I’d be careful not to use them too regularly, as (I’m not 100% certain) it may degrade the epoxy a bit, and it’s probably not a great idea to ingest those particles.

I'm not sure what he used. There's a ton of them out there. You could try the Gorilla Epoxy for example.

I've done a few guerrilla-style repairs to brass and woodwind instruments in my day.

A cheap and easy fix is some "JB Weld", a steel reinforced epoxy. Just put a pea-sized drop under that joint and clamp it down overnight. Done and done. No need for solder, and it's under $10.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

As everyone (including OP) has pointed out, this is not the best choice. According to the official site (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_glass/overview/Loctite-Glass-Glue.htm) it is not recommended for use above 176°F.

If you absolutely need to make a repair/weld, I would suggest using QuikSteel. It's rated to be safe up to 500°F. I would avoid using it within a few inches of the bowl.

http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/164/

http://www.amazon.com/16002TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced-Repair-Blister/dp/B000FW7UOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413473327&sr=8-1&keywords=quiksteel

Victorinox SwissTool. Like a leatherman only much sturdier.

QuickSteel epoxy. You knead it. sets in second. I've repaired broken engine cases with it on the side of the road. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-16002TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced/dp/B000FW7UOM/ref=sr_1_4

A dresser: $350

A circular saw: $100

Gorilla glue: $5

A face-cord of firewood: maybe $100 delivered, unless you have a chainsaw, in which case probably free.

Brutally ripping off your customers: priceless