Reddit mentions: The best industrial coatings

are you talking about doing a full epoxy bar-top like finish, as in something like this. where you want a glass/plastic type look? Generally speaking as long as you follow the mixing instructions to the detail they aren't that hard, biggest thing that can happen is you'll get bubbles as the product cures. I wouldn't recomend using just the bartop stuff for the entire coat, maybe look into putting a coat or two of varnish, or more of a penetrating epoxy resin to seal it first. I think this can also help reduce the air bubbles. Regardless though on something this big you're going to get bubbles, so you get some kind of torch like this and go over the top with it as the epoxy drys.

For these type of glass/bartop look I prefer 2k poly as it can be sprayed and adding multiple coats is easy, stuff can be pretty pricey, but is cheaper if you are producing a lot of stuff for a big job rather than mixing up a bunch of epoxy. The fact that you can do multiple coats easily adds for more options in regards to glossy/sheen (they offer it from matte to gloss like any normal poly).

Now if the epoxy is for filling voids you want more of a structural epoxy (although I guess you could just fill a big void with the tabletop stuff, i've never tried), like a West systems or T-88. fill it a bit over the top, if you have bubbles getting trapped use heat or just do the large voids in multiple pours, bubbles usually congregate to the edge and often times just mixing it a bit more will get rid of it. One's like west system are nice because of their pumps that measure out the right ratio from the hardener and resin, easy to add color if you want, and after sanding it takes a finish fine and becomes clear again.

Those are generally the main applications of epoxies. reason I mentioned using 2k was because if you just want really durable finish because it will take a lot of abuse, there are other options. Also if you do want that plastic bartop, super high gloss look there are other methods out there such as just buffing a higher gloss varnish up through the grits, you don't have to deal with mixing or anything, can usually be applied easier with a brush. General finishes makes a bunch of topcoats that can be sanding, they have a high performance one that supposedly is pretty close to a 2k poly/conversion varnish, but you don't have to do any mixing and it can be applied by hand, although I've never tried it. I use their enduro-var water based urethane for a lot of residential jobs and get get a pretty gloss like look by buffing it up.

This sounds like it might be a case of 'bit off more than I can chew' syndrome, but advice is free. Take it or leave it.

It's not 2 types of resins. It's resin and a hardener. Most modern resins try to make this fairly easy and do a 1 to 1 ratio. This is the chemical 'magic' that makes the liquid harden. As soon as you mix them you have a ticking clock for it to begin to harden, then once hardened, curing fully. Before you mix the two, you can mostly take as long as you want to prep.

Certain resins like Bondo Fiberglass resin use a liquid hardener that you have to measure out and drop into the resin itself. Most modern epoxy style hardeners have simplified the process as described above.

Anyway, depending on the type of wood it might be smarter to stabilize the wood itself under vacuum if possible.
Cactus juice seems to be the standard for this stuff and it does seem to be so for good reasons.

https://www.turntex.com/product/cactus-juice-resin-and-dyes

It's a hardened-upon-temperature resin so you can completely fill the pores of the wood or item, draw out all air bubbles under vacuum and bake at the right temp to stabilize the wood itself.

This has the advantage of making the wood permanently how you want it. You can also pour resin after it's cured if you so choose to make a finished smoothed surface.

I've been looking at a project that requires a good clear resin for a chair and for the price point this seems to be quite reasonable. I do not have any experience with this material yet, but there's a lot of reviews of it. I will say you need to follow instructions about a seal coat.

https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG

Hope that helps. There's a lot of Youtube videos out there showing off how to do some of these things.

Thanks! I'm a home user, and yes I meant 200kg force (Ebay sells them for about £40).

> Ok so to answer your question: you could wrap it in a rubber mold (which you can paint on in layers)

Any high rated product from Amazon.co.uk you can recommend? How about something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastidip-Plastic-Rubber-Paint-400ml/dp/B0006SU3QW

Also maybe this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/250mls-Liquid-Latex-Mold-Special/dp/B004FPMN4C

I think the idea with this second one is to dip objects in multiple times (waiting minutes or hours between each layer), and each time a layer is added. You can dip multiple times, and get it as thick as you want.

> or even glue on sheets of rubber (probably your best bet)

Again, any product page you can point me to? Hopefully, UHU all purpose glue will stick it together. This approach will look less 'clean' than the previous though...

I don't mind not using rubber by the way.

> Remember, the thicker your protective layer, the bigger your air gap, and the weaker the strength will be.

If the distance is more than a few centimetres, the force will be the same AFAIK. It's only weaker in the sense that the metal can't physically touch the actual magnet if it's got a coating.

> And as always, be careful with magnets that strong!

That's why I want to get it coated :)

How do you rate the safety of a cube versus a cylinder versus a sphere? A sphere has no sharp edges or corners, but perhaps more importantly, flat metallic objects won't have so much surface area to 'touch' the spherical surface completely (unless the object was also curved like the magnet, which is unlikely).

Not sure how easy it is to detach metal objects from a 2" diameter sphere though compared to an equivalently strong cube (about 1.6" cube).

> They are cool and fun, but things go wrong very quickly in ways you will not expect.

Any stories to share? Have you ever come close to an accident?

I started with the toner transfer method and after getting ugly ground planes, no matter what I did, I decided to up my game and see how I could improve. The dry film photoresist method is great!

Stencil:

• Laser Printer: I got this one for $50,- at the time, price has gone up since then.
  
• Laminator: Cheapest and best laminator I could find - no modding or anything required.
  
• Transparency Film/Paper: This one seemed to work the best out of all the others I bought.
  
  Etch-resist:
  
  
• Positive Developer (Sodium Hydroxide): This stuff is dangerous - it's lye! The solution I bought was pre-diluted 10% and can be found here. My developer solution is roughly 1% lye. That means you need to dilute one part from MG Chemicals bottle with 10 parts water. This has yet to go bad for me.
  
• UV Light Source: I use this cheap one found on Amazon. Works well and is just big enough to fit my largest 4"x6" boards.
  
• Dry film photo resist OR pre-sensitized photo resist boards: Pick any that you find will suit your purpose. I found some lying around at my university and have no idea where it came from. I've heard good things about Riston (eBay), and we use the pre-sensitized boards made by MG Chemicals at my university.
  
• Other: Rugged rubber / "vinyl" gloves, safety glasses (you should own these already if you solder), a respirator if desired, lots of plastic containers such as Tupperware big enough for your PCBs, acetone to clean the copper boards and to remove the photoresist, reasonably heavy duty scotch brite pads, and glass from a picture frame to hold the transparent stencil onto the board.
  
  Etchant:
  
  Here it really is up to you. I use the hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) with hydrogen peroxide method, but any method will work fine. Be careful that your etchant isn't too strong and will somehow inadvertently strip off your photo resistive etch-resist!
  
  I hope I didn't forget anything...
  
  ---
  
  Pros:
  
  
• Cheaper than a CNC by far.
  
• Cleaner results than toner transfer, if done right.
  
• Reusable chemical solutions - depending on your choice of etchants.
  
• Photoresist also allows you to make your own solder masks. Take a look at my previous post here for pictures!
  
• High accuracy depending on your printer. I can confidently get down to about 6 mil before I get nervous with my printer.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Still somewhat pricey if you have no materials on the list at all - somewhere around $200.
  
• Dangerous chemicals which require proper storage, safe handling, and approved disposal.
  
• Will probably take a few trial & error runs to tweak your procedure in order get good results; same as toner transfer.

If you want to stick with wood there are ways to paint it to have a metal look for the frame, heres an end product example I found. I imagine there a tutorials on youtube. https://www.bowerpowerblog.com/x-based-console-table/

Dowel and glue as much as you can while keeping the pieces manageable. I like threaded inserts between parts that will be assembled and disassembled for transport. Like if the top is to be separated from the base.

In conjunction with the dowels connecting the top you could use something like this If you want to keep the top in 2 or 3 manageable sections for transport
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/joint-connector-small-2-1-2-to-3-1-4

To help protect the top of the wood desk, consider an epoxy.
I recently used this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1RAW6D on a recent project ( https://imgur.com/gallery/pP0qznn ) and have been happy with it's durability. I did go a lot thicker than necessary. But as it gets the inevitable scratches over time theres more than enough to sand and polish them out instead of stripping back to wood and recoating.

If you check your local hardware stores there is some stuff that is used to make handles for tools and the like. It comes in four or five different colors and cures pretty quick. If you just dip the item to be encased, let it dry, and then cut what ever openings you need with an Exacto knife you will achieve pretty much what you want without too much fuss. I think this would be better than using silicon caulk, as it is more flexible and durable. Here is an example of what I suggest you use.

http://www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-Black-Coating/dp/B000VS2HMK

Good luck.

MM

For me, it was between the Prodigy (ITX) and the 350D (mATX.) For me, ITX won out due to smaller overall size.

That said, man, the 350D is one sexy case. It's my go-to. If somebody asked me, "Name a Micro ATX case you'd recommend to anyone, go." my first answer would be the 350D without knowing anything more about the needs of the user.

Aluminum fronts can have problems with marring from oils in your skin... I wonder how well it would work to cover it in some sort of matte clear top coat like clear PlastiDip or glossy topcoat like Rustolem Clear Automotive Enamel

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sandisk-SDCZ60-128G-AW46-128-GB-Cruzer-Glide-Flash-Drive-USB-2-0-Black/49674146

TUSITA Micro USB HUB Adaptor with Power, 3-Port Charging OTG Host Cable Cord Adapter for Raspberry Pi 2 3 Pi Zero Android Smart Phone Tablet Samsung Galaxy HTC Sony Google LG/Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LTHBCNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xLAlDbCM31BFK

MG Chemicals 838AR-P Total Ground Carbon Conductive Pen, 4g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZX06PL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ROAlDb6DREBQK

Here’s what I used to get started, a good and reliable usb that I had no issues with, the otg you’ll need to free up the ports in front along with extra ports on the otg if you wanna add online later on possibly. The final most important thing is the conductive ink pen to perform the power limiter mod so you have no issue performing with the front ports if you wanna do multiplayer or wireless controllers. I would link guides but a bit lazy atm. A quick search on the subreddit like power limit or conductive and you’ll find the post with the video. My recommendation is bleemsync. Restalgia has a good video for a fresh install.

https://youtu.be/ydLKv1HUd0A


Hope this helps!

one of my friends used clear coat to make it more shiny but I just used plastidip and then the color that I wanted and it worked pretty well

here is an amazon link to stuff we used it comes in different colors as well.

90% of my soldering experience is larger things, simple wires, such like that. I don't even have soldering equipment anywhere close to small enough to try to do a modchip.

If you've got an older version (anything before 1.6 I believe) you can do the TSOP flash mod.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYAA814/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and used it to bridge the pins needed to TSOP flash. It's basically like one of those old white-out pens and was pretty easy to use. The only other thing I needed was a Xbox port to USB cable so I could connect a flash drive. You need a smaller flash drive (there's a compatibility list linked) but I have so many old flash drives I found one that would work.
I've never modded a console before and now after a little adventure later I have my Xbox set up with a larger hard drive that I can install games to, a much nicer dashboard, and it's a lot more future-proof.

I've already got a list of about 40 games that I want to play once I find all of them and it will be a growing list. I've found a lot of the games feel very modern in how they control and that's a huge plus the Xbox offers I think. I can't get into much other "retro" console gaming because I hate the controls. Although, most of those retro consoles will emulate on the Xbox anyway.

I know of no paint-on membrane that will do what you want. You would, in effect, be putting a layer of synthetic rubber over top of the existing material. That's not going to last, in my opinion. The best roll on membrane is perhaps EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer); this product is painted on to a depth of about 20 mils. Here is one such version:

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Rubber-White-Coating-Gallon/dp/B003KA00VQ

It'll work, but it does not handle furniture and foot traffic all that well.

To me, the best way to build a roof top patio is to install the PVC or EPDM, then go over top of it with a decking system. Bison Systems has one such design:

http://bisonip.com/bison-products/pedestals/

No feet or furniture ever touches the roof, and it should last for many decades.

Paint the concrete with 2 part epoxy. You can get latex-type which is less stinky and you'll get a really nice smooth and durable finish. It's sold as garage floor paint. Super tough and easy to clean. 1 box will do your kitchen for sure. You will have to get the concrete clean, though. once you get the tar off, you'll want to etch the concrete with a weak acid, which comes with the paint, usually. They'll have this at your big box store and tint it one of 30 or so colors.

I bought a set of WearEver stainless, induction-ready pans several years ago and they're still like new. The nonstick is completely unscratched, everything seems top-notch. I expect they will last me a lifetime, but you can certainly spend a lot more and get some which are nicer in some way.

The only thing I don't like about them is the lid handles get hot; I coated mine with PlastiDip but idk if that is safe for the oven; I only use these on the stovetop.

I sprayed a door/window sensor and magnet with Plasti Dip and then mounted the sensor to the gate and the magnet to the wall. I would have preferred to mount the sensor to the wall and the magnet to the gate, but there wasn't enough clearance between the gate and the wall for the sensor.

I figured I would try it and see if it would fail after a few weeks or not and so far, so good. It has been on for about 10+ months and has survived the weather in Arizona (heat, thunderstorms and sandstorms).

The tape used for mounting (I don't think I used the standard tape it came with) has also held up well. I did make sure to scrub the area with an alcohol swab or two before mounting.

When it is time to replace the battery, I'll remove the coating, which can be peeled off, replace the battery, spray it again, and then remount.

The black coating makes it blend in to the black frame of the gate, so it does not stand out, which is nice, and I am getting ready to do the same for another gate real soon.

(This is my first post, so I'm not sure how to add a picture of it.)

Like I said, haven't done this myself so don't know from experience, but power washing seems to be the first step. After that, use some chemicals (a lot of epoxy kits come with de-greaser type cleaners. You might pick up some extra and do it several times if you have a lot of oil stains). One forum I read, the guy had a very old garage with a lot of stains and power washed, used some strong de-greaser chemical cleaners (multiple times), and used a wire brush to scrub the stains out by hand.

Edit: I found this first review here was quite informative and where I got the above information: http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-002-0050026-022-Quikrete-Garage-Coating/dp/B0010OKMS0

You should try it yourself! It is super easy and if you mess up it come off really well. You can get some spray stuff on amazon. It works just like spray paint http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1406342789&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Actually, his second guide tells you all about paint! His guides are VERY useful, and if you're interested, he also does a weekly Q&A livestream via Google Hangouts where you can ask questions about foam fabrication (among other things, usually) and he answers them right then and there! If you follow his Facebook page, he will post who his guest for the week (if any) is, and what time he's streaming.

I hope this helps you out! (To be honest, I'm not a big fan of making armor out of foam, but I've been giving it more of a shot lately. For the foam things that I HAVE made, I've used Plasti-Dip to seal, and then whatever color of spray paints I need, followed by acrylics for details/weathering.)

Edit - Formatting & a word

Here is the exact resin I use
I've found with careful control of resin temperature and slow mixing of small batches you can get a nearly bubble-free pour. These pieces are also 1x1x1.5" so they are quite small.

My initial test build had millions of bubbles but by changing a few parameters (dont store resin in the cold basement, mix with proper cups and a mixing spoon) I got something I was happy with!

Also this is regular clear epoxy resin just marked down for tables so that could be why they charge less for it.

Has anyone had any luck using different resin? Art Resin like /u/peterb77 used is pretty expensive for a smaller amount. I was looking on amazon and you can get a lot more for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1502468813&sr=8-18&keywords=resin
This will be my first but hopefully not my last resin project.

I originally looked to fit the seachem bottles with pumps but couldn't find anything that'd fit. It's just a big bottle with a little opening. Here's the bottles I ended up buying. And here's the plasti-dip I used. Although I bought the plasti-dip at the local Lowes for less than Amazon sells it for.

Edit: while getting the link for those bottles, I found a pack of black bottles in the list of related items. More expensive, but it'd have probably been easier. Link

It's important to not use any type of coating that produces acetic acid as it cures, such as acetoxy silicone. Acetic acid will eat copper traces away very quickly - even if the PCB is exposed only to the fumes. Real PCB conformal coating will obviously be safe, but be careful with anything else - like a tube of silicone sealer from a hardware store.

There are a few types of conformal coatings, and blocking moisture is typically the most common use for just about all of them. Easiest to use would probably be a brush-on or spray-on acrylic. Like: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B07B8RY7M6 or https://www.amazon.com/ACL-Staticide-Acrylic-Conformal-Coating/dp/B00K0C13G8

I know you wanted the rubberized handles, but that limits your options significantly. I'd say apply the rubber yourself with a tool handle dip.
BRS Stove - $16
Snow Peak Trek 900 - $45
Rustoleum Grip Dip $17.50

That leaves a solid $10. You can have them pick you up a canister or two!
I've been using both the BRS Stove and Snow Peak Trek 900 and they both work great. Now, if you have a windy situation, you may need to build a windscreen or get a MSR Pocket Rocket.

​

I've been fixing this issue for ages on Wonderswans. The underside of the button is just a black conductive carbon pad. These tend to get dirty and wear out over time, but can be easily fixed by using a Nickel Conductive Pen to re-coat the pad in a new conductive layer. It's a super quick and cheap fix and and as long as you let the layer dry properly before playing, will last for many years.

I did something similar. I recommend giving them a nice coat of PlastiDip's rubber spray to the sides that touch the furnature. It goes on really clear (slight frosted look) but really improves the grip onto those smooth surfaces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LNN11G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one does look pretty thick. There are many others out there that are thinner, though. Here's one on Amazon, or just shop around for "conductive ink pen". Copper foil tape would work pretty good, too.

This is what I use on my projects and it works very well for table tops, bar tops, etc. This would not be appropriate for your garage floor, as it's a very different type of resin than the garage floor kits.

Is it just regular black plasti dip like this?

Or is it some special stuff, like a kit, matte, glossy, etc.?

Thanks again! Def going with your plan.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/

It's more like spray paint. It works super well.

Flavortext: My buddy and I love hiking, foqund a cool lake and decided we wanted to get a boat, some fishing rods, and add fishing and boating into our fun weekends. So she and her fiancee sweet talked the fiancee's dad into giving us his old 18-ft canoe since he does not use it anymore. Got the canoe, 2 beautiful wooden paddles, and some life vests.

The details: There are a couple decent-sized cracks that need repaired and the hull has a number of smaller cracks that might not be leaky now but could get worse in the future. So I'm researching how to repair it all and do a full recoat. The article I'm going off of is: https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/how-to-repair-fiberglass/

It appears I need (and the item I have found so far):
-Resin
TotalBoat Gelcoat (White, Quart with Wax) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53C3NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DONKDb0754A9Z

-Chop filler
Cabosil Filler, FUMED Silica White Powder thickener, 1 Gallon for epoxy Resin, Paint, Thickening Filler, Hydrophobic, Fishing Fly Floatant, Polyester Resin, Fiberglass Resin https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PXXQ4N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQNKDbVPMJBNX

-Resin Thinner
Hi Bond Styrene Qt 701930 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002IV6LDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3ONKDbAVBRDW4

-Pigment (optional but why not)
Light Blue Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint, Latex - 4 oz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0746MSGMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQNKDbN56RMSZ

-Disposable Sprayer
Preval 0227 227 Sprayer System, 11"x5.25"x4.25", Multicolored https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NXNE6CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hONKDb6BGQ8BK

Anyone have any thoughts on the product choices? Any recommendations for better products or suggestions?

I've used this before for tool handles and the like. It's pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-Black-Coating/dp/B000VS2HMK

Try something like this

And a blow torch to run over the top to release the bubbles. The bubbles are introduced from stiring the epoxy and just natural permeation. If you know someone with a vacuum chamber you can ensure ZERO bubbles.

It's likely Plasti-dip or similar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491024471&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plasti+dip

You may have better luck with Silicone conformal coating:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SPJOKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491024482&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=conformal+coating

Silicone is more expensive, but has better temperature resistance.

If you're looking for permanent, I would use automotive clearcoat. It comes as an aerosol, yes.

Otherwise, clear PlastiDip would make a good temporary see-through layer to protect the marker ink from smudges, etc. Grow tired of the design? Peel the PlastiDip off, then clean off the marker ink with isopropyl alcohol, and repeat.

You could try this stuff. Plasti Dip.
Not sure how the clear would look. I've used the black, and blaze orange on my hand tools and it holds up quite well.

Awesome, thank you.

What do you think about these?

MG Chemicals 842AR-P Silver Conductive Pen https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LYXQE0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wND5BbKWQDKPN

Thank you! I use this one from Amazon :)

I got the Peel case this last week. It is pretty slippery out of the box, so I added a couple coats of Plasti Dip to give it a nice rubberized feel and a ton of grip. It comes in a variety of colors, but I went with clear
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11209-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B000LNN11G/

7 coats of black and 5 coats of gold. :)

4 cans should be enough for four wheels and I think 3 is enough for the gold. :)

There is always conductive pen

Works great for the most novice modder. Since a tsop is such a small bridge I'd go this route to make sure you don't mess up a good board.

https://www.dipyourcar.com

Watch some of their vids on YouTube, they are pretty cool.

Here it is on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=plastidip&qid=1556123766&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Let me know if you need tips.

I have had good results with this. I am by no means an expert and used a pressure pot to minimize bubbles, but I liked this stuff. It has worked well on several home projects.

I think Plasti Dip is pretty cool. It's temporary but it protects the metal surface and it looks good too. One cool thing is you can put it on with an HVLP gun or a can. If you screw something up, you can peel that part off and respray it without doing the whole car. There's just no reason to be driving around in a tri-color hoopty with this stuff around.

A better idea might be to turn it inside out and spray it with some aerosol Plastidip. It is readily available at any home improvement store, or Wal-Mart or whatever.

Nice score man! If you want to squeeze a little bit more out of your card you can try shunt modding it with some conductive ink pen like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYXQE0M/

Expense is subjective. It's not difficult but can be smelly, messy, and the molds can get touchy if they're elaborate.

The (possibly optional) ancillary equipment such as pressure pots can get really costly.

There are lots of videos on YouTube from which to get an idea if it is something you'd like to pursue. Search for resin casting.

Peter Brown on YT is an entertaining experimenter in casting as well as other maker goodies.

Edit: a word

Not what you asked for but polyester resin is much cheaper than epoxy.
It does have a strong, distinctive smell while setting.

Worth just figuring out how to do it yourself honestly.

Or just spend $5 and plasti dip.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541530167&sr=1-3&keywords=plasti+dip+black

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWS9-lTfd30

https://youtu.be/Dxz2dJ6tfeI?t=640

Are the bases raise like the slot bases GW uses? If so I'd test dipping the edges in PVA glue or some sort of varnish. Some 2 part epoxies can dry rubbery. hmmm or something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastidip-Plastic-Rubber-Paint-400ml/dp/B000LNN11G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1495464656&sr=8-6&keywords=clear+rubber

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

socks + [spray on rubber] (https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1474933644&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=spray+on+rubber)
works amazing, is crazy cheap, and if the rubber wears down you re apply, machine washable, get black spray on black socks and you're good to go. i have a few pairs

There are several spay paints you can use that are conductive and they can be electroplated.

example: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Conductive-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B008OA931A/

A lot of the guys I know into 3D Printing, do it for finishes (usually copper or nickel plate but, chrome works the same).

After painting, use progressively finer sand paper to get a smooth finish (I'd recommend going to 1000 grit). You can even get an electroplating kits from amazon.

I've successfully used carbon conductive spray paint on resin prints to create a conductive surface to electroplate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OA931A

We actually ended up using a couple brands because we really underestimated how much we would need. So we started with this stuff from home depot and then ended with this stuff from Amazon. They both worked great. I think the part that made it look really good was using a heat gun to get rid of all the air bubbles.

Most people spray it on the bottom of their bags so they don't get soggy and wet. Amazon has it and most hardware stores do as well. Just google disc golf plasti-dip bags and I'm sure you're see some threads about it.

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1406612535&sr=1-1&keywords=plasti+dip

Like this? MG Chemicals Acrylic Lacquer Conformal Coating, 340g (12 Oz) Aerosol Can, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OA7178/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RcvazbEZQ4ESH

Plasti-dip. Spray it on like spray paint, but peels off like tape. http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

It is a two part epoxy resin that I filled the holes with, it normally dries clear but I dyed it green and added iridescent powder as well. It sets up rock hard and it is somewhat machinable.

These are the materials that I used;

http://www.amazon.com/West-System-Epoxy-Resin-Quart/dp/B003T0UG98?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

http://www.amazon.com/West-System-206A-Epoxy-Hardener/dp/B00080CUFK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Rit-Liquid-Dye-Emerald-Green/dp/B00UL8SKWQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Marketing-Finnabair-Ingredients-Iridescent/dp/B015JH4B7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Sure, it is just your typical Plasti Dip classic black 11 oz can. Here's a link to the one I used, though I bought mine at Lowes for like 6 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

I did 6 coats, about 15 minutes of drying between coats. Brand wise, i just brought the first one that came up on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480126309&sr=8-1&keywords=plasti+dip

I have the same chair. I traded it in for a DX Racer but I did not need to... It's a great chair. If I may offer a suggestion. Coat the parts you made with [plasti dip.] (http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426521190&sr=8-1&keywords=plasti+dip+black) That would be the finishing touch.

I did a quick search and found these.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Cigar-Tube-Travel-Screw/dp/B01JJL41FA/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609104&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=garcia+vega+cigar+tube

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Cigar-Tube-Travel/dp/B01JJL4AX8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609381&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=garcia+vega+cigar+tube


They would need coated on the inside where the clicker would touch. I'm thinking spraying some plasti dip would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609272&sr=8-1&keywords=plasti+dip



Here'a a nice oak one for $10.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HMTW00O?psc=1

for cables, check out either cablemod or mainframecustoms

for painting, I dont think there's a service that you can just ship your parts off to have them painted, but for painting pc parts, use plastidip. it's non-conductive, covers in 2 coats, comes in like 1000 colors, and is REMOVABLE just by peeling it off. for your case you may want to use something else, but for backplates and ssd's use plastidip

here's a linus video on plastidipping parts

not sure whether I needed to, but I coated it with this which I heard was safe https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNN11G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's an alternative kind of paint PC modders sometimes use. Its called Plasti Dip. Its basically rubber paint in a can. Its non-conductive and people have applied it directly to motherboards even. Though I wouldn't recommend insulating chipset heatsinks and caps but its safe none the less.

I did a penny top desk a few years ago and used some from Home Depot. It was in the paint section. It was like $30 a box, and I needed 3 for my desk.

If I did it again I would get the stuff from Amazon sold by the gallon. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG/

There was nothing wrong with the stuff from the big box stores, but from a pure cost perspective I could have bought that for less, and had a ton left over for something else.

Epoxy Resin would be your best bet. I don't trust water based polyurethane on anything that may get wet.

This stuff I found on amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01M1RAW6D

The EcoPoxy stuff he recommends in the video is about twice the price for a similar volume. It looks like he had a much bigger volume than I do, mine is less than an inch deep and only ~6 or 8 inches across the epoxy bit.

Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin Coating for Wood Tabletop - 1 Gallon Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z-OLDb6H9FNVZ

I had a similar exposed camera and used plastidip (link below) to coat the exposed PCB. It also comes in a little paint can if you don't want the aerosol can. The stuff works well for all sorts of electronics you might want to protect.

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

Amazon has a couple. PlastiDip will probably show-up first on your searches, but there are some no name products available too.

Just make sure you get the kind that you can actually dip them in, and not the spray stuff.

Plastidip! I mean it's what I used for my car and also Xiaomi M365 and it works. Have yet to try it on my rev though :)

Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating Aerosol - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CvkCDb0NCY5D0

I wouldn't bet on it. Conductive pla has a very high resistance so it would plate very well. What you can do as an alternative is take a part printed with any filament and give it a coat with this stuff
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Conductive-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B008OA931A then you can electroplate just fine.

Yeah i read to maybe use a foam sealer of some kind before painting it, with maybe acrylic paint? This stuff??

Oooh. Shiny. Black plasti-dip on the butt would probably look nice and provide some extra grip (don't forget to rough up the surface before applying several coats).

Also available at your local auto parts store.

• http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

Hypothetically, you can take out the WASD keys, spray clear PlastiDip on them then put them back after they dry. However, I have no idea just HOW clear they are or if you can stand the texture.

Stock rubicon wheels. Sprayed with Plasti Dip, cheap and easy.

I think this would be a good choice.

thanks, is this what you meant?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastidip-Plastic-Rubber-Paint-400ml/dp/B0006SU3QW

I took my 2015 rails off 2 weeks ago, laid them out and just put a few coats of "Plastidip" on them. They look much better.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502383536&sr=8-1&keywords=plastidip

Plasti Dip

Its that easy

Like slapping a coat of paint on an old motorcycle!

https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_79_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QSARMH4356D435A0V01B I used something very much like this at work.

I use a paint from ABR Imagery. I have found that the paint from Caswell separates too easily and is rougher than the ABR paint.

Caswell offers a paint that can be sprayed but it is very pricey.

I was also able to find this carbon conductive spray on Amazon

Okay, so at least you have now pinpointed the problem area. Now we need to figure out how to fix it. If you've cleaned it to the best of your ability and it's just not going to work, either the carbon is damaged, or worn. I'm not an expert on repairing these pads once they have failed, BUT, there is something you can try next. This black carbon coating can be purchased in the form of a paint, or ink that you could try. The idea is you'd paint a very thin layer over the old coating, which should in theory, bridge the problem. Something like this product here: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Carbon-Conductive-Pen/dp/B01LZX06PL would be good.

Ballpark $200.. I bought the wood about two years ago and believe it was ~ $80-$100 2x6x8 walnut. The epoxy, tyvek tape, mica powder and a few other things I didn’t have were about $110. Here’s the epoxy and mica powder in case anyone is interested.

Yes, that one would work. I used this one, it is a little cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYAA814/

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip Clear is on this page.

Also on Amazon

The one I'm using is Performix, not sure if that's the original. I picked it up from HomeDepot but you may even be able to find it at the local auto shop. I've used it to blacken the headlight rings on my car. Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

It only cost $48 and I have a whole can left over. I just wanted to see what it would look like with black rims because the sliver paint was chipping off.

Plasti Dip: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/

Scouring Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KYQBX0

As for the slip, I've read some people using this type of spray rubber to give grip to slippers. Seems like it would work here too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNN11G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=all07b0-20&linkId=65cc1c513712ba2268a5fcb0cb3cf7e6

It's probably not very difficult or time consuming.

You need some kind of resin

You can use a bunch of stuff to color it. Like Glow powder, and some kind of pigment. Then make a mold out of UHMW, (cutting board) and cut to shape with a table saw or something. Then just drilling small indents and painting them to finish it up

there's no shielding at all, but I don't know how to go about this. its a spray paint type stuff, shown here and the description/reviews say it sticks to plastics quite well so I'd have to mask off possibly all of the outside of the guitar, right?

Some people use plasti-dip. Waterproof, lasts, peels off easily if you change your mind.

From what I've read the right stuff to use is this:

http://www.amazon.com/West-System-Epoxy-Resin-Quart/dp/B003T0UG98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412720731&sr=8-1&keywords=West+System+105
http://www.amazon.com/West-System-Extra-Epoxy-Hardener/dp/B0002NY9AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412720777&sr=8-1&keywords=West+System+209

You're looking at ~$70 all in for that. But it might be worth it... resins can be finicky to work with.

I used this stuff and it turned out well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYK2NAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can plasti dip them.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

There's someone on here that did this a while back and it was working fine.

1. Depending on location, under $10
   
2. Depending on location, Home Depot/Lowes/Amazon
   
3. No need to primer or sand (though it can help I don't recommend)
   
4. Tutorial!

I used Plasti-Dip, this stuff here: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SU3QW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you try, look up tutorials on youtube and be careful about application. The stuff is holding on really well through rain and snow with no sign of deterioration

After much nail biting trying to choose the right epoxy, I went with this ProMarine from Amazon:

You should buy some rubber spray off amazon and spray your foam so it doesn’t fall apart. That’s the move.

Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating Aerosol - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rAb4Ab2NNV0W2

Amazon heres a link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1RAW6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z7V7CbF9ZS93V

I used this Acrylic Conformal Coating on a few boards for my holiday lights display that were left in outdoor enclosures at the mercy of midwest winters. No moisture problems with this stuff.

Plasti Dip you can buy black and white at walmart and you can peel the paint off whenever you want. youtube it

[Plasti Dip] (http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW) is what I've seen used most.

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408415322&sr=8-1&keywords=plastidip

Can be bought in your local hardware store most likely

I wonder if you could use [Clear plasti dip] (https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11209-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B000LNN11G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468432364&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+plastidip) to waterproof a pi and keep it with fish.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=plasti+dip&qid=1565290567&s=gateway&sprefix=plasti+dip&sr=8-3

For the plasti dip

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/

But you should be able to find Plastidip at any hardware store.

You can buy spray plasti dip.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467574791&sr=8-1&keywords=plastidip

Plasti-dip

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B3CD3K/ref=asc_df_B003B3CD3K5362923/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B003B3CD3K&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198067685003&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8758926673946185238&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011162&hvtargid=pla-350121736485

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495541546&sr=8-1&keywords=Plastic+dip

https://www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-Black-Coating/dp/B000VS2HMK

this one?

it looks about 4in thick by 3ft by 3ft, so around 3 cubic feet

one cubic foot is around 30 quarts

one quart of epoxy resin is around $30-$40 https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-Epoxy-Resin-Quart/dp/B003T0UG98

take away maybe half for the volume of the wood...

$35 90 quarts 0.5 = $1575 of epoxy ish? give or take based on if my estimation is correct?

Electrical tape to tape off any ports first. Then use plasti-dip : https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

It was one of the cheapest I could find on YouTube.. here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=pd_aw_lpo_201_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HM7ACTD9CXGKXZM42WXK

plasti dip, you can find it in most stores that sell paint products

​

Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating Aerosol - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BHrYBb1KCDE9Q

Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating Aerosol - 11 oz. by Performix http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XLipub12RWJGR

About $12 actually.

https://youtu.be/otCtkVePX_0

——————————————-

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_lp_tr_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DTKQBCFBS1BCFCF89CAH

You could just buy some of this

Plasti Dip possibly. See [HERE] (https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1537149822&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Plasti+Dip+black)

I have a Pebble Time and the copper terminals on the watch started to corrode. It got to the point where I had to fiddle with the charging cord for a few minutes before it would start charging. So, I put some conductive ink on them and it starts charging everytime now. This is the pen I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYAA814/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Cheap-ninety-nine.

If you do it yourself it'll be a few hours from start to finish.

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417704853&sr=8-1&keywords=plastidip

The platidip around here comes in a can you just spray on. Similar to a can of spray paint. You shouldn't need anything besides the can!
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419791845&sr=1-1&keywords=plastidip

Use a plasti dip coating to paint the surface of the lock. It's the same stuff that's used to coat handles on tools.
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW

https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=epoxy+resin&pd_rd_i=B01LYK2NAG&pd_rd_r=caf18787-693b-4fc1-8029-58245384cd77&pd_rd_w=cbcYw&pd_rd_wg=5G2we&pf_rd_p=d006b618-5fac-44e6-850d-a0fdd19f7847&pf_rd_r=EC8RAKSF8QSB5HAX671H&qid=1572630183

That’s the resin I use, the acrylic paint I get from Walmart and you can use any isopropyl or denatured alcohol I believe. If you go on YouTube and lookup resin pouring there are tons of channels that show you how

Conformal coating!

Here

MG Chemicals 419D Premium Acrylic Conformal Coating, 55 mL Bottle, IPC 830, UL 94V-0 (File # E203094) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8RY7M6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r730DbR0XDSRH

You can find the black Mazda badges here and here.

http://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Resin-Boatyard-Fiberglass-Gallon/dp/B006VY7ZY8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1375822997&sr=8-7&keywords=MEKP

Just in case, you can also search for polyester casting resin.

https://smile.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2PGLVZYV5O35O&keywords=bar+top+epoxy+resin&qid=1556287104&s=gateway&sprefix=bar+top+%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Colorant-0-36oz-Cosmetic-Natural-Pigment/dp/B07DH8QDJN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2VA4LC6AZZO6M&keywords=epoxy+resin+color+pigment&qid=1556287213&s=gateway&sprefix=epoxy+%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D8MSCbWDGW1WN

You can get it at Walmart, or anywhere that has paint.

Here's also a list of the mods, how much, and where I got them.


Visual

Black rims $192.25x4 = $769
Window tint $180
Spoiler $100
Side Stripes $30

Tail light blackout $20

Sidemarker $15

Rear Decal: $50

345/Hemi Emblems black $34

Plasti-dip for Decals $6.00

Rock Guard $60

Engine

Air Filter+Recharge $63

Oil Catch Can $150

Other

Tazer+Bypass $300
Atturo Az850 275/40R20 $127.55x4 = $510

Mid-Muffler Delete $163

Spray

I got mine at home depot

You can always use Plasti Dip. It is basically spray paint but it is non permanent and can be removed.

It looks mean.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SU3QW?cache=d678df272a3c91b9686c08d4631393eb&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405885609&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

Was this the plast dip you used?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SU3QW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here's what you're looking for

Plasti dip!

There is a conductive paint to re-form lines on circuit boards, if you're trying to paint lines onto that button (not sure what the exact problem is). Or, you could solder any mechanical pushbutton that fits to the board to repair it.

I use plasti-dip on mine. I just dipped the handle in it. I put 2 coats. I don't cut my hand anymore. They sale it in a can at Harbor Frieght if you have one close by.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=plasti+dip&qid=1557410466&s=gateway&sr=8-2

FYI it is not hard to plasti-dip anything these days nor would it take tons or even need to be dipped any more as plasti-dip come sin spray can form.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-Dip-11-oz-Copper-Metalizer-Spray-6-Pack-11236-6/204416730

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

You could fashion a wall shelf for the MB with two wall shelf brackets (mounted upside-down) and a can of rubber spray for like $12. For the display, I'd go with the standard VESA wall-mounting option of your choice.

Edit: Shit, I might do this for myself now.

I do have this stuff at home which I used to coat my GoPro casing to blacken it. I used maybe 2 coats, but honestly the durability is a bit crap. I doubt very much it would stand up to the abrasion requirements of racking a barbell.

It's a resin cast.

1. I took off the window handle and made a mold of the top of it. (used this stuff)
   
2. I poured wax into the mold. The first time I tried this I didn't let the mold cool enough and the hot wax melted the mold and fused to it, but I was able to cut out the fused bits and remelt and recast.
   
   
3. I stuck the wax blank down to the lid of a small plastic container I got from the dollar store.
   
   
4. I made two holes in the bottom of the container. One in the center to
   push the drill bit through, and one at the edge to pour the resin in.
   
   
5. I used some of this resin that I'd had left over from a tabletop.

No problem. You more or less do the same thing for the paddle. If you are doing just that though, why not use some plasti-dip? Comes in many colors, gives you some extra grip, and no need to prime. Just clean it, coat it, and let it sit for however long it says on the can.

Spray the dash with Plastidip, no glare. If it's unsafe and Nissan isn't budging, fix it yourself or don't drive it. The hope of this going viral and getting fixed isn't worth the risk of killing some kid on a bike.

It's not the prettiest thing in the world but it works. My kids keep leaving the fence door open so I wanted a sensor in it. Plus I wanted it to trigger the alarm when we are in away mode to decrease reaction time of police.

Plastidip is a removable, sprayable, type of waterproofing.

Now if I can do an outdoor siren...

Any ideas on an outdoor siren?

Here is Plastidip.

> Third: My casts have a yellow hue to them instead of being crystal clear as the product should be. While setting I did block them from sunlight. Could this be the result of measurement error or mixing error?

Did you use this resin? I had the same problem, and the company said that if you pour in increments thicker than 1/4", the excess heat discolors the resin.

After you pluck the foam to the shape you want, cover it with some plasti-dip spray rubber.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/

It basically glues the rest of the rest of the foam pieces together and makes the foam less absorbant.

Do not try to use the non-spray variety. I tried both and the non-spray variety was a fucking disaster, when it dried it shrunk unevenly which completely warped the foam and it was a pain in the ass to apply evenly. I ended up throwing that foam away.