Reddit mentions: The best silicone adhesives

I have several suggestions:


1st: Whatever enclosure you use, you will have to ensure that it is UV protected, or you will have to paint it with paint rated for outdoor use, such as Krylon or Rustoleum all purpose spray paints.


2nd: if you are in a climate that experiences extremes on one or both ends of the temperature spectrum seasonally, you will want to take precautions.

-If your climate is higher temps but dry, you will want a breathable enclosure.

-If your climate experiences humidity as most do in the United States outside of deserts, you will want to coat the board in a "dry" conformal coating. That is, once applied, the coating dries. You will want to take care to seal or plug any of the ports to protect against corrosion from moisture. After applying this coating to the board, and appropriately sealing or plugging ports, you can use an open enclosure for venting purposes, taking care to only have openings at the bottom of the enclosure to ensure moisture cannot drip in, but can leach out.


-If you decide to do a closed or sealed enclosure, you should do so with a conductive material such as aluminum and flood it with a non-conductive fluid like detergentless motor oil. This will ensure the RPi can cool in higher temps, and all but guarantees no moisture corrosion. Make sure to use standoffs that will make sure the RPI does not contact the inside enclosure surface and keeps the RPi snug. Using 4 drops of non-conductive automotive gasket maker in the corners of the RPi board to create at least 1/8" gap between the board and the enclosure is a simple way to do this. Take care in this option to plug ports you intend on using later such as the HDMI, 2 of USB ports, and any others. You can use a light coating of silicon to seal the SD card, and around the pins on the bus you are using, as well as the power connector. Since motor oil is non conductive, you can leave any non-used ports open. You can use gasket maker or silicone to seal the enclosure and if you drill a hole in the top, a syringe to flood it with oil after closing, then using the silicone or gasket maker to plug the hole. Obviously you would want holes for the leads and power cable to pass through, taking care to seal those too. This is exactly how transformers on telephone poles are insulated against moisture and heat.


3rd: Consider keeping the RPi inside altogether and running leads out to the sign. If you need less than 8 leads, cat5/6/7 cable can accomplish this and you can even drill a 1/4" hole through your wall to route the cable, taking care to seal the gap. If you need more leads, look into circuit designs that can convert the output from the RPi into a serial signal, and have a circuit on the back of your sign, with it's own power supply for turning the serial signal back into something that drives a relay bank, or some other simple LED control.

A lame humor response I suppose....never mind. I was only suggesting this nice servo as the ultimate pipe hitter. "Fucking around" means to me buying only a slightly better servo than you currently have now while hoping that it will be enough. Then you get it and you wish that you had not wasted time and effort on it. Then you get a slightly better one again in the hopes of the same thing...so on and so forth. My attempt at a humorous reply was to quit fucking around with all that shit and get this "mean as hell" servo and be "done fucking around"

^

Does your BEC output 8.4 volts? If not, you won't be getting the most out of the KD1. It stands up to reason that you should not run a 7.4 volt servo on 8.4 volts if you want it last.

^

Now "spec shopping" can be problematic. People have been doing this forever with most all kinds of merchandise. Its Marketing. The problem here is determining a common metric among brands and lines within brands. Does a reliable metric among all servos exist? ?? Who says .08s/60 degrees and 347oz-in is even accurate? Are those readings for the whole arch? Will the servo be able to hit 347oz-in while 2/3s of the way into a rotation? Does it get hot and does the torque go down with rising heat? Perhaps the equipment used to make those measurements is off a bit to inflate the "specs"? I have so many questions here?? Marketing shenanigans have been going on as long as markets have existed. I like my KD1s because they work well for me. They have no equal in my opinion. I'm too old to jack around with marketing nonsense.

^

I have been playing with RC since 1986 and my "fucking around" days are long gone. Say I wanna build an RC model, I now only purchase enthusiast level products. The servo I mentioned is such a device. It is not cheap, but is anything high end cheap? Do you need a top end servo for your vehicle, probably not. Would you want one? Who wouldn't? Can you afford it? ??

^

My KD1s have amazing holding power. They absolutely stay where they're told through the arch. Its CPU is extremely capable and the coding for this servo is second to none. Now, its algorithms are optimized for heli cyclic duty, but this actually seems to me to translate to surface steering use very well.

^

I've never owned a Savox servo so I can not attest to their quality. As far as the Xpert being waterproof, I cannot say. It is a heli servo and flying a heli in the rain isn't likely a good idea. It also isn't advertised as waterproof. I've gotten my xpert servos wet ripping up dew covered grass and no issues so far ?? You can purchase a bottle of silicone conformal coating I waterproof circuit boards with this stuff all the time. Would it work on a servo? ??

^

Being concerned about this waterproof issue, an advertised as a "car" servo with claims of waterproof might be in order here. Brushless is indeed the new hotness in servos these days. Most higher end servos nowadays are "digital" too.

^

Perhaps instead of "spec shopping" utilize the gifts of modern technology and see what others have done. Don't reinvent the wheel here. As I'm sure you already know, online videos can be pretty nice for seeing what's out there. Better yet find a local RC club or track. Speak to the people there and ask what they have.

^

I used to ride the brand loyalty wagon all around. I was huge into Asian RC radios and servos. I never had a bad Hitec, Futaba, Airtronics, KO Propo or JR servo. I still have vehicles with those servos in them right now.

I'd look into vacuum forming. It may be easiest to make the enclosure, then cut/drill slots and holes after. I've used these guys for material for prototyping before (mainly because they are fast and come up first in Google!):

http://www.widgetworksunlimited.com/Thermoform_Plastic_Sheets_s/36.htm

If you go that route, you can scale up your model and print a layout guide for holes. I'm not even going to link vacuum former designs, there are SO MANY out there that you can build cheap, just google it and pick which one you like!

One quick thing you may try if it is just a prototype and you are worried about feel in hand is smoothing a part then trying surface coatings. Most of the following advice is mainly for presentation prototypes. It gets impractical in production scale...but hopefully if your prototype gets approved you can get a budget to permit producing it in a way that gives you just what you're looking for. It all comes down to how many you expect to make and what kind of production budget you get.

Silicone conformal will make it feel smooth which makes it "feel" harder. With multiple coats you can give it a softer, more rubbery feel, but plasti-dip may be a better option if that's your goal. It comes in aerosol:

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YGQI

There is also XTC-3D which gives it a more solid feeling in the hand. I have a buddy that swears by acryilic nail gel and UV curing and I have other buddies that swear by various polyurethane coatings. Its all about the feel you're looking for.

If its' overall weight and stiffness you're looking for, a trick I learned is to glue some thin steel plates inside a printed housing, then go over the interior with a heavy coat of XTC-3D. It stiffens the housing up amazingly well and gives it a dense feel in the hand. In my industry, weight in hand is associated with quality, they like heavy tools, heavy controllers and heavy remotes. I have a product that has a 11ga plate epoxied inside a rear cover for no other reason than everybody HATED the lighter version in testing. Besides the plate, they are the EXACT SAME assembly.

I know a lot of people boo-hoo feeling in hand but I totally get it. If I give a prototype to the CEO, or a customer I want that thing to feel a certain way, look like a million bucks and really represent my idea for the final product...the enclosure may be full of crimp connectors and electrical wire and paperclips, but the damned thing better look and feel like Apple made it!

I've tried some variations myself, and usually I simply revert to printing upright. The biggest issue I have with this is snapping off a piece while removing supports.

Splitting a figure in half does produce nice-looking results, but they never seem to fit back together nicely once printed. It took a while to find a good glue (I'm mostly using gorilla glue now), and I would have had to use green stuff to seal the gaps. All-in-all a lot of work, and it just seemed easier to bring the STL into MeshMixer and inflate it a little to make it a stronger print so that removing supports wouldn't break it as easily.

I'm very curious about printing miniatures on their back, though... that might work great. Will have to try.

As I understand it, you're in Australia. So flip your phone over if my text looks funny.

I can't find dimensions on that particular cooker, but it doesn't look all that large. (As offsets go at least.) But they're pretty standard as far as how they cook.

Things to note:

-- Seal any air leaks. You want air coming in through the firebox on the right, and going out through the vent stack on the left. (Oven Gasket & High Temp Silicone) Anywhere that air can get in, it will, so control that shit. There are 3 things needed for a fire. Fuel, Heat, and Air. You can control the Fuel and the Air, but it's easier to control the air once things get hot... so learn to do that, and you'll be fine.

-- Decent thermometers. (The bi-metal dial in the lid is likely off by 50-60 heathen temp units. (F) from what the cooking surface is. Find one with probes for the meat, and ambient air temp. Knowing what your temps are makes cooking easier.

-- Beer. (or Whiskey) You'll need this while your BBQ it's the law.

-- You may want to look into adding fire bricks, and/or water pans to your main cooking chamber to help maintain stable cooking temps. Also, if you notice that your cooks are consistently too hot, you may want to look into blocking some of the airflow from the firebox into the main cooking chamber.

-- Practice with pork. It's more forgiving than beef, and it's tasty so why not?

-- I know I've mentioned several modifications to your cooker, but the only one I would do before cooking on it a few times is seal up any gaps/leaks/etc. Everything else I would put off until you've done a handful of cooks and know how it reacts. Be scientific about it, make 1 small change and see how it does, then make another, and another. There's no perfect setup, just the setup that works for you. So take your time, and find that sweet spot that cooks food the way you enjoy it.

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

Do it! It's a slightly tedious job but the look you get from it is supreme. Keep in mind I also relocated the ignition with the kit. If you install a tank lift the look is even cleaner bc you have more room. You can tuck the harnesses much easier (if you look close under the HD logo you can see one of them sticking out.. eye sore if you know what to look for haha). And yes you wrap it to the frame section by section. I used e-z tape to combat all the elements and protect the wires. This video from blockhead explains it much clearer and a visual aid. I highly highly recommend watching his videos and throw him some love

Glad I could help, hope you have a blast :)

If you feel like getting arts and crafts-y with your drinking endeavors, here's another tip. Get whatever brand 20 oz water bottles, use a 1/4 drill to bore a hole in it. Fill with whatever clear booze - flavored rums, vodkas, and gins you desire - and re-seal with something like this silicone sealant. You can either reseal under the label or on the bottom of the bottle. I did this for lollapalooza one year, and while the seal was a little leaky when the bottle was squeezed, it worked like a charm.

I have the Oklahoma Joe Highland and I like it. Fairly heavy construction for a low price. It weighs about 200lbs. It eats a lot of fuel but it is easy to maintain temperature and everything I have smoked on it has come out delicious. I generally have to feed it charcoal every 2-3 hours to keep it at temp so it requires some maintenance but not too much.

The only modifications I made to mine was some self stick seals for the doors and some food grade high temp sealant for the joints between the firebox and the barrel. Without those it leaked a lot of air/smoke.

I would also recommend a thermometer because the one built into the lid always reads 25-50 degrees hotter than the temperature at the grate where your food is. I use this one and it works great. Just glance at it every now and then to check if I need to add more fuel.

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

> There's a silicone sock that'll fit...you need to look for the MK10 sock. I think it comes in a pack of 3.

This one? I do like that the E3D one also has silicone over the nozzle too, which seems like it'd help with the plastic sticking to the nozzle like I sometimes have issues with, but having a cover that fits is the biggest priority.

And how big a difference does stuff like the Micro Swiss hotend make? I thought the one I have melts plastic reasonably well, so I don't know what exactly the benefit of something like that would be.

It could take a while to expand as you suggest, but that would most likely require you to soak both sides of the wood, not just the inside. You could try hosing down to accomplish this, or caking with wet mud to help it stay moist over the time it needs to absorb water. There are dozens of silicone sealers you could use. the clear tub caulk would be fine, but if you intend for the water to be pottable or used for veggies, use something that is food grade like this for example: https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B005XP5HO6

If they are the same as the MK4 Golf/Jetta, they are solid and Lemforder is the OEM brand. I actually have a set of Lemforders down in the basement I bought when I was doing a suspension refresh but didn't install them. The originals are still good at 190k miles.

As far as greasing the contact surfaces and easing installation, I would recommend silicone grease. That is safest for rubber. That is also what is used on brakes typically.

Edit: Something like this, or this.

The biggest mistake I see mechanics do when changing the brake pads is how they deal with the brake caliper 'slide pins.' The slide pins being clean, rust free, and lubricated with the proper lubricant is very important to longevity of the pads.

What I see most mechanics do is either leave the slide pins alone or just use a petroleum-based 'brake grease' for the slide pins when they relube them. This will not do well, because the slide pins need a silicone-based caliper grease that will not eat the protective rubber boots that cover the slide pins. Many brake greases say "rubber safe" on the label when they actually are not (example Permatex Green Ultra brake grease). 3M's Silicone Paste is great for these pins, as well as Motorcraft XG3-A. Either one will do. Many times the boots will be swollen (due to petroleum grease eating away at it)

Also make sure he bleeds your brakes thoroughly to get that old dirty brake fluid out of the system. Many mechanics not do this when doing a cheap quick brake job because it means cracking open the bleeder screws (and possibly breaking them!) and dealing with that associated headache. Old fluid absorbs water and water rusts your brake lines from the inside out, as well as cause premature brake fade during heated stops.

It might be wise to also bring him the brake pad hardware (associated clips and shims) to go along with the pads and rotors.

Finally, find out what the pad manufacturer recommends for breaking in the brakes (bedding the brakes). Doing this is pretty important to proper smooth operation throughout its life.

Thats great to hear! It must've still had moisture under the chips causing a short but now had time to fully dry out.


Get this stuff https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ its modified with a UV dye so you can see where its been applied. You can get a UV led Flashlight for cheap to ensure havent missed a spot.

You can coat everything, even soldering pads. if you ever need to solder anything to the board, the coating just steams away just be sure to reapply the coating in that area afterwards.

The bottle arrived the other day and I took my tinyhawk freestyle apart and desoldered the VTX (same board as the tinyhawk) to fully coat it then also added a larger capacitor. https://i.imgur.com/wYo9Laz.jpg . I did two coats then one more once everything was soldered and plugged in. I'm confident that this thing could survive a dunk in a pond now.

I have used high temperature, food safe silicone sealer with good results. The brand linked to below is not what I use but is an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542131776&sr=8-8&keywords=silicone+food+safe+sealer

If you are handy and willing to spend the time you can try making Sugru which has some advantages.

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/

Good Luck

​

Yeah! And they're easy to work with. You can look up how to do it on YouTube. I also recommend you order some weatherproof/waterproof clear rtv silicone such as this because I don't like the black silicone that comes with the lenses. Lastly, a LPT: if you aren't comfortable or don't own a heat gun, use a standard hair dryer. They produce a lot of heat to help you work with plastics and silicone without the dangers of melting parts and paint on your car.
Hope this all helps!

Your pads likely lifted because you overheated them, I doubt hot glue will have that much holding power. Remember that the longer you're in contact with the joint with your iron, the more heat you're dumping into it. Higher heat for less time will actually reduce your chances of overheating things, but when I say "higher heat," I mean in the neighborhood of 320°C, which is lower than your low heat of 330. Make sure your iron tip is clean and properly tinned, the oxide layer that forms inhibits heat transfer. A dab of solder on the iron tip will help speed things along as well, but that solder is not for the joint. Heat the components and touch the solder to them so that it melts and wicks into the joint, a process which usually takes one or two seconds at the most. Apply flux liberally if you don't have rosin-core solder, or even if you do and you just want more flux, it will speed the process up and faster is better.

And to answer your original question, even silicone wire can break at the joint if it's allowed to move around enough, so consider taping or zip tying the wires to the frame. Be careful not to cut off any strands when stripping the wire (be wary of any automatic wire stripping tool for this reason) and try not to have too much insulated wire hanging off the joint. If you want to reinforce the joint, you might want to try an electronics-grade silicone to cover it, but that stuff is meant to be permanent, and doesn't come back off in a hurry once it's cured.

If you just want to have tentacles, well, those are pretty easy to mold from green stuff. Stick 'em on any barbarian-lookin' mini you like the best.

Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)

I like it, but:


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1 | I would absolutely positively make sure to ground the fixture, because of the electrical tape insulation of the socket shells - it's not particularly robust, ESPECIALLY at elevated temperatures. You'll melt off the adhesive or dry it out and the tape will come loose.
2 | For the same reasons I'd also run it on a GFCI
3 | I'd only use it with LED bulbs, because of temperature concerns.
4 | I'd recommend switching from electrical tape to silicon self-fusing insulating tape. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape/dp/B01IVNQ7RC or this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rubber-Electrical-Tape-70/?N=5002385+3292437112&rt=rud

I never used loctite blue, unless you just mean the loctite in the blue squished casing? And no one should ever use any sort of glue as a protective coating, under any circumstances, ever. Either nail polish (cellulose based only), or conformal coating (like this stuff): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I have no comments whatsoever about nail polish or silicone coating as an IHS sealer, and I would always recommend RTV now, since I've seen how easy it is to work with if you do the very tiny dab method (and when I say tiny, I mean the bare minimum required to touch the substrate).

In general, any type of super glue is not a good idea because it is a -very- strong adhesive and can risk damaging the green substrate, as well as making delidding difficult.

The super sparse RTV method is popular now because if you apply just enough to stop the IHS from moving when you close the latch (after letting it cure in the relid kit for an hour+), it does its job and if you happen to have messed up or something, you can remove the IHS just by prying it with your nails.

I'm curious what happened, though. How did the stuff spread like that? And what happened to the die? I honestly don't understand what happened. Unless the IHS slid somehow and liquid metal contacted the super glue and reacted with it?

The one I bought has the blue and yellow separated, but it's not unlikely that it's from the same origin point. I don't buy in bulk because I really don't use a whole lot of it and I have limited hobby storage space in my apartment.

FYI, my related links on that Amazon page had this one listed which is from a good quality brand, and it's a significantly better price by weight. Generally, if an epoxy putty isn't branded by a games company, the price is more reasonable.

Green Stuff - I'm still going through this 36" roll of Kneadite. $5 more than Games Workshop's product, but 5x more putty.

Primer - Rust-Oleum Sandable Primer is my gold standard. I've used it in all seasons in Mid-West USA with no issues, and it always dries with a perfect finish.

Black wash - Nuln Oil is still my liquid talent, but for large projects I use Vallejo Black Wash. Almost twice the price of a pot of Nuln Oil, but over 8x the amount of wash. Economical for terrain pieces and large models, but not quite the same quality.

Paint - I've been hooked on Citadel paints since 3rd Edition, but I'm slowly transitioning to Vallejo and Army Painter. The latter has color-matched primer and acrylic paints, which has really saved my sanity on the large projects I typically work on.

Great idea, can't believe I never thought of that!

I found a tube of some that looks like it would work great from Amazon.

I suppose I could modify an electric kettle using that, I'd just need to find a foodsafe valve for it.

Don't worry about heat. Conformal coating isn't going to insulate anything so much it over-heats. Unless you put on like 20 coats of the stuff maybe.

By the way, you should probably use silicone conformal coating instead of acrylic. It's a little more durable, and not quite as nasty to work on. Personally I prefer the liquid over aerosol. It's much easier to make sure you get everything coated well, and the fumes aren't quite as bad.

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.



in ThrottleStop


for performance
and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.


With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

Okay, I thought maybe it was metal. I'm guessing it's a cooler? Not sure if it's HDPE or PP. I think finding a good washer, like you are trying to do, is the best way to fix this. But I found this, I've never used it. Maybe it could work.

I've used this in the past, and was quite happy with it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=shoe+goo

This one is a good deal, and will have you set and ready for any future mishaps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JCCKWZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1521039097&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shoe+goo

Ok, lots of different opinions here, and everyone's ignorning the fact that's there's silicone that's specifically food safe. If it doesn't say 'food safe', it's not!

Here's one that came up with a quick google search for 'food safe silicone sealant'. https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU

Use the right stuff, please.

Here's the clearance I have when the bars are full left (ie parked):
http://imgur.com/GdGgCRD


Here's the harness pressing into the lamp when the front wheel is straight ahead:
http://imgur.com/PZGrqTn


That's a good point about the effects of corrosion damage. I've got a roll of high temp F4 tape that I could use, but I'd like to be able to easily get into the wire bundle if necessary. There are several bullet and spade connectors at that end of the harness.

I think what I'll end up doing is cut up one of those silicone oven mitts/baking sheets and glue it to the back of the reflector with some high heat adhesive. It might be overkill for headlight temperatures but it will keep the heat away and allow me to easily get to the electrics.

Sure thing. This is the pin vise I used, including the 3mm bit. The 5mm bit I used is just a regular titanium drill bit, turned by hand, and you can get that on Amazon or at any hardware store. You'll need superglue to affix the magnets (any will work), and Kneadatite/green stuff to fill gaps. Other than that you just need the magnets themselves- these are the 5mm ones I used, and these are the 3mm.

If your LED strips are encased in a silicone sleeve, I found that using clear RTV silicone like this works well to attach the sleeve to cloth. I tested all sorts of adhesives and this one holds the strongest.

It will be permanent though. You could use it to attach velcro so you could later remove the LED strip.

Yeah, that's fine. Pretty much any kind of silicone adhesive will work. I used the cheaper, clear stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

Huh, that's....well...that's odd. I got to say that I am a little surprised that is a problem. But I guess I can understand.

Well, coating the cage with a food safe silicone based substance could be a start. Look at kitchen silicone sealant, http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420570048&sr=8-1&keywords=food+safe+silicone+sealant

Be sure to let it really dry and cure before you use it. The silicone itself is safe, but the curing agents aren't. say 48 hours minimum. If you do it carefully, you could actually make it look good, and the silicone will act to "grip" your penis, making it much harder to pull out.

Not sure if you can clean the area of the leak but this might work -

FLEX SHOT Clear - As Seen On TV - 2 pack special + 2 extension tubes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGHFOUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LfTyxbZBW32EJ

Owner of rig here:

Thanks for your suggestions so far, I'm definitely intrigued whether the pump is spreading heat affecting the output tube from the GPU.

I was thinking of adding a silicone adhesive to connections when I rebuild it after the weekend. Does anyone have any experience / tips regarding products like permatex

Dang. Ok I've been doing a little poking around and what I've found seems to be.

1. A lot of folks have this issue with Krups kettles
   
2. There doesn't seem to be a solid fix.
   
   You could find a sealant: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Grade-Strength-Sealant-Clear/dp/B00NU6VN6G
   
   Maybe this would work? It's Food Safe and the upper temp is 350F which is well above boiling water.

Citadel green stuff is overpriced. Next time get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Same stuff, just different packaging and several times better value.

conformal coat EVERYTHING you can (https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6). use 'sensor-safe' silicone gasket maker everywhere. It's actually more than just damage, I got water in my HK Swamp Dawg airboat RX and it went full throttle, rather than failsafe. I was holding it, having just gotten it out of the water, draining it. I almost bit me.

also, consider a cheap gyro, really helps with wind, turning and super fun drifting.

Silicone is a good choice, it is transparent and a very light coating will create an airtight seal.
(not the grease) something like https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

If you want something flexible I really think that the Liquid Electrical Tape is your only option. I've used it for my motorcycle wiring in one place and it's held up decently. Just make sure you use some good cleaner like rubbing alcohol before applying it and use multiple coats of the stuff. ONE COAT WILL NOT BE ENOUGH. Trust me on that one.

My concern is that the wires are so tiny you will stiffen them if you use anything at all. Even the liquid tape. If you have a habit of rolling your earbuds around something for storage the liquid tape might start to shred off as well. That would be my first recommendation though or the Plasti Dip stuff.

Alternatively, I'd consider this, but I'm concerned you won't be able to roll it up small enough around the wire. Read the reviews on this stuff. It's freaking magical. :) http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI

I actually used this on a part that was leaking oil on my motorcycle and it has not leaked since. It bonds to itself when you remove the plastic sheet. Even if it doesn't work you would likely find a million other household uses for it.

Amazon suggests all hope is not lost.

>Food Contact Safe (FDA grade) 350F high temp

I dont get it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
is $13 is that out of your price range?
The nice thing about actual conformal coating is that you can solder through the coating or remove it if needed. Had grate luck with it so-fare.

They sell https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YGQI its about $5 more though, it is an Aerosol. Never used it before though.

I've used this stuff on drones, for flying in the rain (and crashing in wet grass). It's pretty good.

I see a hassle of cutting, cleaning and fitting before you.

Or

clean the paint and junk off the area around the crack.

wrap it with some of that self fusing silicon tape (it's amazing stuff).

clamp over the tape with a hose clamp.

Thanks.

Green Stuff on Amazon

The thing that irritated me about Amazon (in general - I know it's not really anyone's fault) is that depending on the 3rd party seller, packaging, and intended customer base, the price varied dramatically. The stuff that was clearly listed for hobbyist to use for minis, etc, was $1-$2/inch. After looking around for a bit, I found a 36" roll for about $16.

I recently started using this stuff for wiring and sealing electrical connectors, especially in areas where moisture could be a problem. Like liquid tape, its really handy to have around.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LA2258

"F4 Tape was the unofficial name given to the self-bonding rubber tape used by servicemen of the Navy, Air Force and Marine Corp. Named after the legendary McDonnell F-4 Phantom II, the original F-4 Tape got its name due to its extensive use on the F-4 Phantom.
While officially used as a high-temperature high-performance electrical tape, even in its early days F-4 Tape was quite a remarkable repair product, having been used for repairs on hydraulic hoses and various other systems on the F-4 Phantom."

Hey any thing that says, “food grade non-toxic silicon” will be safe to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Sealant-Adhesive-Original-Version/dp/B01F9HCCFE/ref=asc_df_B01F9HCCFE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198068685752&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6504012866981888787&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-349796768365&psc=1

This will probably work, just look into any product you consider.

It’s also probably a good idea to steer away from anything with a short cure time.

In your FAK/ repair kit throw in a couple large pieces of tenacious tape, some duct or gaffer tape, small tube of adhesives (shoe goo and seam grip ), Leukotape, tiny spool of heavy thread, and 3 large needles. UL gear is great and you definitely dont need some ultra strong 1000D codura nylon backpack that weighs 9 lbs on its own, but it is fragile and a few multiuse repair items can go A LONG WAY.


https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Clear-Contact-Adhesive-Waterproof/dp/B06WGSRM4Z/ref

https://www.amazon.com/BSN-Medical-BEI076168-Leukotape-Sports/dp/B000E59HXC/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Repair-Fabric/dp/B001949Z4I/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Outdoor-adhesive-Tenacious/dp/B000BRDDW4/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Outdoor-Repairs-Needles/dp/B003B678VO/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Upholstery-Naturel-150-Yard-Assorted-Needles/dp/B016C39XW4/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Shoe-5510110-Mini-Adhesive-Pack/dp/B01JCCKWZO/ref

Electrical tape would certainly melt under that temperature load, possibly heat shrink as well. Kapton tape would be my choice. A cleaner looking, but slightly more expensive solution is silicone conformal coating.

This is a good conformal coating I've used after cleaning of the board to protect the traces:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tool you're looking for is called a razor saw. Good luck with the mod!

Edit: Keep in mind that it is not solid plastic, and you will have holes where you make your cut. You could use plasticard and green stuff to cover that up though.

Clear nail polish may work, though this is specifically made to protect electronics and is only $12.

I've used 1" Self-fusing Silicone Tape and it worked great. http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-020/dp/B002LA2258

F4 tape would work great too.

Silicone tape is great and is really convenient. This one below will stay on for at least a few days at a time even in the shower.

https://www.amazon.com/Mepitac-298400-Soft-Silicone-Tape/dp/B00ZF76K7K/

That's fair man. THat's how I feel too. Not many people skate in teh rain, but I live in the bay and that's just not an option. Oh... if you're going off-brand I'd recommend that you coat all of your componenets with conformal coating. It's an electronics waterproofing product. Here is a linkl:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2KILXXHLES5D1&keywords=waterproofing+for+electronics&qid=1564775250&s=gateway&sprefix=waterproofing+for+ele%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-1

Electrical solder is used to solder electrical components. I assume that is what you mean by 'conventional'.

I don't think engineers are in the habit of hacking things together using methods that are dodgy, potentially unsafe, and probably won't work very well.

What you want is some sort of food safe glue that can attach non-ferrous metals to each other and has a good elongation value and medium to high temperature resistance.

I think this might do you:

• http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B005XP5HO6

On mobile and can't edit my previous post. Anywho, I used this on my smoker. Perfect seal and food grade hotter than you are going to make it.

Silicone RTV 6500 FDA Grade High Temperature Silicone Sealant, Red (2.8 fl.oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AERBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J05kyb27BJZES

Go out and get some Kneadatite aka “green stuff”. It comes as a blue and yellow strip that you mix together and it becomes green. You then model it into the hole and let it harden before painting it.
It’s wonderful for conversions and is a staple in Warhammer modeling.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520099987&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

I say YOLO that sucker "The result of these evaluations: FDA for decades has determined that polystyrene is safe for use in contact with food. In addition, FDA has approved styrene as a food additive – it can be added in small amounts to baked goods, frozen dairy products, candy, gelatins, puddings and otherfood." you could add a braid, fittings, etc. with Clear Food Grade Silicone Sealant

This is what I use, it's a better deal and easier to cut to size for faces. http://www.amazon.com/Mepitac-298400-Soft-Silicone-Tape/dp/B00ZF76K7K

You can mostly make it waterproof. You can crack open the case and conformal coat the PCB. I wouldn't consider it 100% because you will still have a battery and button exposed, the voltage/current is low enough it's not likely to be an issue though.

​

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_2

A lot of people use this to make PCBs waterproof after the manufacturing process as a DIY thing. I use to to coat receivers on my RC cars and crawlers.

​

That or find a small bag and put it in there. my friend does this with his phone lol

ESCs (and FC and RX) are coated in conformal compound, its like super thin layer of epoxy. See here: http://amzn.com/B008O9YIV6 Makes it mostly waterproof, in theory at least, not something I want to intentionally test.

And then between ESC and arm is thin piece of double sided foam: http://amzn.com/B007Y7EF4E

Even if it comes loose, there isn't much slack in the wires, so it can't actually move up more than a 1/8 inch or so so its not going to like get hit by a prop or something. I've done similar setup on 2 other quads and not had any issue.

• Element - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLVD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Nut - http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464K586
  
• Cord - http://www.mcmaster.com/#70355k84/=12vegug
  
• Sealant - https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU?ie=UTF8&qid=1329415802&ref_=sr_1_cc_1&s=aps&sr=1-1-catcorr
  
• Also depending on pot thickness you may need these shims: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3250/=g9xtsl (18-8 Stainless Steel Wide-Rim Shim .075" Thick, 1-1/2" ID, 2-1/4" OD)
  
  Truthfully, that is all you need. If you don't have a way to make proper holes in your pot you'll also need a step bit.
  
  On my pot, the rubber that came with the element was enough but you may need separate o-rings (AS568A Dash Number 217).
  
  That's all!

That's probably your brake pad ears rubbing against your brake clips. I had new pads and rotors installed and had the same problem until I took the pads out and lubed the clips and pad ears. It's about $18 a bottle and lasts forever. You might also want to pull your caliper pins and lube them up as well otherwise your caliper might be stuck pressing your pads into the rotors (use a different lube for that). Most dealer brake places don't do it, but good auto shops do (here's a South Main Auto brake change video).

i'm sure they sell it in your local hardware store. The specific kind doesn't matter much, just get silicone sealant. The stuff i'm using isn't even the 'flowable' kind and it works flawlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469542253&sr=8-2&keywords=silicone+sealant

Food grade/Kitchen silicone sealant? Comes in squeezy tubes and caulk-gun cartridges. Lube pot and lid so it will release, lay a bead, close gently and let it set. Ex:

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B005XP5HO6

I use this on my new winter build. I basically do about 3 packs a day and then toss it in the rack to dry with the dishes and haven't had a problem. Chicago has a lot of snow right now and it's reversed props so it's always packed tight when I get home since they fling the snow at the flight controller.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_m_ba_rp_of_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C8DPHQ5N2VJN5QBZG0NX

It's normally like this after every flight. https://imgur.com/a/XMGUulZ

Easy.

1. Dunk it in a bath of citric acid/vinegar.
   
2. Wash it.
   
3. Polish it with 500+ grit sandpaper.
   
4. Polish it more with 1000+ grit sandpaper.
   
5. Put on conformal coating:
   https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU

It's an easy way to triple the cost of whatever you're printing.

You really should use Food Safe Hi-Temp Sealant on smokers.

Conformal Coat will be durable and microwave safe
MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle with Brush Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_szhYCbWY2KTKM

Mitigating dust and humidity?
Using conformal coating. You can buy an aerosol version to test it out on your first run of boards.

This also had some good layout info (i.e pad shapes, etc).

If the super glue doesn't work, try using self-fusing silicone tape. It allows for some flex which is a bit more comfortable. I've done this one and it held for nearly a year. Cut the tape down to size, and you may need several attempts to get the tension right.

Downside is whatever fix you go with, it's not going to sit on your face the same way. You mentioned you use these for eye strain and this may affect you if your glasses aren't properly lined up anymore. Think of it as a temporary fix and just get a new frame. Spring hinges just aren't something any DIY can do.

Well, I'd probably just use food grade silicone if you're looking for something quick and easy.

Otherwise you could use a compression fitting cap but you'll need to insert the dip tube in first and then attach the fitting through the lid hole.

If you can just pop it back on, and you really want to salvage the lid, I'd try high-temp epoxy before giving up. I wouldn't personally worry about it being food-safe, since it's not going to be in direct contact with the contents of the pan.

Just pop the handle back on, mold a decent amount of the putty over the connections, and let it cure thoroughly before use.

Alternately, there's food-safe silicone, which might be easier to work with, though it might not hold up as well under use.

Just don't put either in the oven. They're both supposed to hold up to 400-500F, but I wouldn't trust 'em.

That might actually be fixable.

Clear Food Grade Silicone Sealant - 2.8 oz Squeeze Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063U2RWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_byIYBb4E3Z9XS

You can also try

Permatex 80050 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEPVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zxA7BbVD8X59R

Or this. Haven't tried it either.

MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Conformal Coating, 12 oz Aerosol, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YGQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Tx62wbS60TAPP

This also works, it just requires a little more patience getting it to be clear of bubbles.

http://www.mixglo.com/

Most people recomend applying NOA61 adhesive with a syringe which requires a UV light emitter (like the thing they use at nail salons to dry nails) to dry. I'm going to just try clear silicone adhesive as that requires less equipment. I'll let you know how that goes.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503161622&sr=1-3&keywords=Silicone+sealant

Or use something like this to coat it.

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU

As others have mentioned, get rid of that tape. You should be using a conformal coating like this stuff... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J5dKBbSFHY21N

I think this could work. Or something like it.

http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B005XP5HO6

Have you tried something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

I remember watching a YouTube video where someone covered their electronics in this stuff and flew it in a bathtub. Plus it doesn't add any bulk to the drone like liquid tape. But that being said I haven't tried it myself yet.

Green stuff is a great option that has been around for a while and used by wargamers on 28mm miniatures. It's a two-part modeling epoxy putty that can be molded and put into place, then sanded down. This is for small areas and gaps in segments.

I coat all my props in XTC-3d resin, then sand the crap out of it in order to get a smooth finish.

There are two types you can use that seem to work well. A Silicon version, and a Acrylic version.

​

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-422B-340G-Silicone-Conformal/dp/B008O9YGQI/

​

and:

​

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B06XWGCKX5

​

Both work well. I prefer the Silicone version as the Acrylic version has a blueish tint that bothers some people.

I did this, give up now. lol

Plasti-dip wont work. It's not food safe and doesn't handle the high temp of the dishwasher well.

Rerack is expensive. Doing an entire rack takes 2-3 bottles at $7 each. It's also hard to use, comes in like a nail polish bottle.

Food-grade high temp caulk is the cheapest option and what I used. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Grade-Temperature-Sealant-fl-oz/dp/B0114AERBM

You could buy some wire and weld up your own but you really would need to have it powder coated which costs $200-$400

I eventually gutted all the tines out of mine, covered all the exposed metal with caulk. I painted it on with a brush.

Then, to hold the dishes I bought normal dish racks from walmart made for the sink: https://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/9603704/P16789652.jpg

There's hundreds to chose from and you can take them in and out with the dishes in them. Problem solved.

You could try this.

Wrap the end of the clamps in this. A thin layer will mold well and resist heat. Orchard carries a similar product that resists up to 650f.

I'd second the conformal coating, seems to work well for me. this is the stuff I used http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41dzbpa8jyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR118%2C160_&refRID=01C6ET92JK608J6A6AWW

Dry drone is a popular product out there but, it's price to size ratio is crazy. I also have come across Silicone Conformal coating like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just did the same thing, and used the food grade stuff good up to 500. I went with it to be sure that I wasnt eating any off-gassing crap that wasnt food safe.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114AERBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also consider getting some silicone socks instead of the tape. They are a lot easier to put on, but don't last as long as the tape.

Those are kinda overkill for plamo; lots of tabletop gamers use this stuff, both for filling gaps and sculpting. Just cut a length, mash together until it turns green, and do your stuff. Has a decent work time, and smooths out nicely, so you have to file/sand less to finish.

I used food grade silicon like this stuff from amazon..

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU

Not exactly that brand but the same basic stuff, it's been a few years and still holding fine..

Here, that’s a small tube of it I found on amazon. Should work for what you need. Remember to read the instructions on it.

For me, it was part #10 on this diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=S2000&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=2DR+S2000&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=MOLDING+-+PROTECTORS

Philips head screw comes out, and you kind of massage/pull the part out (there's a clip on the other side that you don't have access to. Careful not to bend or break it.

Once removed, I'd pour water under there to verify. If that's the spot, dry it out completely, and Permatex/RTV it liberally at the metal seam and quarter panel:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

Has your car had the quarter panel on that side replaced out of curiosity?

Pick up some food grade silicone and put a dab on the ends to keep it together. If you use just the right amount and don't make the wick tight it shouldn't impact function, especially if your wicks run a little longer.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU/

Has to be food grade or you could be adding things you do not want in you to your juice.

This is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

I used Mepitac silicone tape on my scars after a recent surgery and it worked fantastically. Its a thin layer of the silicone scar sheeting on a backing, it doesn't last quite as long as the thicker sheets, but i was able to wash it and reuse each piece for a week each. and you get quite a bit for 15-20 dollars a roll.
*edit to add link http://www.amazon.com/Mepitac-298400-Soft-Silicone-Tape/dp/B00ZF76K7K

Don't buy greenstuff from GW. It's literally this.

I wanted to try this but dat manufacturing lead time doe

Best. Lube. Ever.

You could make any PCB "water resistant" if you're willing to open it up & spray the board with conformal coating (there are other variants available, including a brush-on type).

I use This

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

Silicone grease as to not break down the rubber. Officially its this: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M

This is more for your money: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

Or local napa has https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating/dp/B0054DWS1W

Green stuff is a two part epoxy that hardens when you mix the blue and yellow sides. Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty Tape 36" "Green Stuff" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u20gDb2JMASBY

Open the sensor and coat the board with this.

Edit: inserted hyperlink correctly

What country is that? If you are in the US Amazon has what you are looking for.

You could always try to add your own flames with green stuff.

Silicone Sealant 100% RTV - 2.8 oz Squeeze Tube -Clear- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063U2RWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-1c-Bb1T78NRF

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-422B-340G-Silicone-Conformal/dp/B008O9YGQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543569078&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=silicone+conformal+coating&dpPl=1&dpID=41mcAG9pGLL&ref=plSrch Do it.

F-4 tape usually refers to self adhesive silicon tape.

https://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape/dp/B01IVNQ7RC

Maybe the nozzle off a silicone filler tube?

After being used, it would have silicone in the nozzle that wouldn't have come out and then solidified.

https://www.amazon.com/Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty-Green/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537629900&sr=8-1&keywords=kneadatite

> So for the most part you only have issues if the pcb gets wet.

That's what conformal coating is for.

anazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty-Green/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+stuff&qid=1554301765&s=gateway&sr=8-3

lol.. just simple food grade silicone to fill the engraving should suffice.

This is more specialized than nail polish.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This silicone sealant

Don't use liquid electrical tape. It can't handle the temps and will just be goo under the HS. Use MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating instead found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silicone conformal coating. You can cover everything with this stuff, fc, escs, vtx, reciever. Keep it out of buttons and connectors, this is where people use a brush and paint on corrosionx.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

that's it

Googled food grade silicone and got to this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NU6VN6G/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A262TPPYXMWGNT&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's for waterproofing electronics.

This is what I ordered I'll let you know how it works!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0063U2RWU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480949279&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=food+grade+silicone&dpPl=1&dpID=41PP7VKwI3L&ref=plSrch

If nothing else works, you may want to just waterproof your electronics with conformal coating. Take apart the Vive to get to the mobo, remove the mainboard, spray one side, put back the mainboard and reconnect, cover-up sensor connectors, spray the other side. Reconnect the sensors and put them back together. Of course, observe the drying times needed.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-422B-340G-Silicone-Conformal/dp/B008O9YGQI/

​

I never did it for a Vive. But that's how you waterproof everything else (super popular DIY for drones since they can crash into water).

It creates a thin silicone layer making it waterproof. It's pretty thin so it's not too hard on the electronics. It does make manually repairing it a bit harder though.

Since it sounds like you have a bunch of broken vives around you can even try spraying it on a broken one just to get the feel of the process.

No, similar but different.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6

I've got this on my Shrieker and I've been flying it daily in rain and mud and snow. My only complaint, and I think this will be true with any conformal coating, is that it wicks into micro-buttons and can cause them to stop working if you aren't careful.

I'm not sure why it's so hard to find the little bottles on Amazon now.

Acrylic

Urethane

Silicone

I have the acrylic because the silicone kind costs about twice as much. The urethane might make a harder protective shell though I'm not sure. And you can solder through it so don't worry about trying to remove it.

MG Chemicals Silicon Modified Conformal Coating.

I was able to see where I had coated and where I missed with this UV Flashlight.

Applying some silicone grease and reseating the hardtop panels got rid of my leak.

Here are two found without any effort at all:

High temperature sealant

More food grade sealant

Remember that "food safe" is not the same as "food grade". What's "food safe" at room temperatures may not be at boiling!

I did use aquarium sealant on the outside of my electric elements, but they were sealed before I did that anyway with a silicone o-ring and plumbers tape. I doubt any wort comes in contact with it. I didn't "glob it on" per se, but I put a healthy layer on. It's messy. Can't help that.

Specifically for waterproofing electronics https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3EC3ZDK61896K&keywords=silicone+conformal+coating+for+electronics&qid=1557150527&s=gateway&sprefix=silicone+conform%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1

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While you're at it, pick up a UV pen light also, to check for missed spots.

yeah there is stuff like this http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU

But i've just used stuff from the hardware store...considering food or liquids would likely never touch the lip the lid sits in, i didn't really see a problem with it...if you apply it evenly, and wipe off any excess, unless someone twisted or moved the lid with quite a bit of pressure, i doubt there is a risk of any coming off into your vessel, at least, i've never seen it. That being said if it was a teapot or something that would be heated often...i would probably look for something specific, or just skip using this method entirely. Also not sure if cheaper stuff will become hard and crack years down the line.

I've repaired similar damage to EX250 fairings with poor man's fiberglass:

• Cotton sheets
  
• Goop / Shoe Goo
  
  You can reinforce cracks or float in entire islands of broken pieces. Clean up the backside and rough it up a bit. Apply some glue directly. Soak a cotton patch in the glue and apply it. Continue with more patches in different orientations. Apply a final layer of glue. You may need to get creative with clamping forces for everything to set properly. Use waxed paper as necessary.

Meh, that's a pain :( After some research, I'm thinking about something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clear-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0063U2RWU to seal the cracks as a final layer - I have heard of Kintsugi being done with silicone sealants before.

You should try silicon conformal coating. It really works I killed an esc going through puddles and than heard about the stuff from the fpv community and I am able to almost submerge my esc and bms.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could just buy a regular plastic bucket, use some food grade sealant of some sort, and incorporate it's very own STC-1000 for far far less than this. I just don't see the benefit of having this vs. the cost, even if it is a conical (this is a half-assed conical though isn't it).

edit: or go for a regular carboy with thermowell. Hell, get a few for the same price as this...