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Reddit mentions of Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural

Sentiment score: 5
Reddit mentions: 7

We found 7 Reddit mentions of Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural. Here are the top ones.

Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural
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    Features:
  • OUR NO BAKE CLAY UTILIZES CHEMICAL REACTIONS -To ensure a rock hard finish to your crafting projects
  • "NO CRACKS OR SHRINKAGE -Our sculpture modeling compounds smooth with water and holds small details. "
  • MIX AS YOU GO -Our modeling clay air dry clay is workable for 3 hours with varying consistency.
  • WATERPROOF CLAY -Once dried, Apoxie sculpt is waterproof, great for outside use and garden projects.
  • NOT JUST CLAY- Apoxie Sculpt works as an adhesive and repair putty as well as durable sculpting clay
Specs:
ColorNatural
Height1.7 Inches
Length4.7 Inches
Size1 LB
Weight1 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches

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Found 7 comments on Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural:

u/db2 · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

I'd recommend redoing the wording using an epoxy modeling clay. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/

You'll have much nicer lines that way. Hot glue isn't really much good for creating a finished surface.

u/zortech · 3 pointsr/furry

What kind of advice are you looking for? Most fursuits heads are made of foam or resin. The foam is generally carved using a electric knife or a serrated knife. It needs to have teeth. An alternative would be to use something like Varaform, It is not used in the fandom that iv seen. I would assume long term structural issues and the fact that its soft at 160F.

If you haven't already, get a styrofoam head from a place like hobby lobby to assist with modeling. If you plan to do this a lot, id spend money on an life sized bust from monster makers or some other place.

Also check out Apoxie Sculpt Its commonly used around the eyes on fursuits, and is easy to work with. One of the nice things is that early in the setting 30-40 min in you can dip your finger into water and smooth out most of the scratches and some lumps to give a smooth finish.

u/TrevNick · 2 pointsr/amiibo

I use [Apoxie Sculpt] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/) to fill in the seams as well as make the additional stuff (roll of fabric for Sable, Labelle's scarf, dress & whatnot). I filled in the seams & smoothed them out w/ my (wet) thumb til they were a little over level with the rest of the surface, let dry (6-8 hours) then sanded down the excess w/ fine grain (180 to 320 grit) sandpaper til flush with the rest of her face.

u/dsq24 · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends

I saw a tutorial where they used apoxie sculpting clay.
It’s this one here.

u/athey · 2 pointsr/Dolls

For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.

You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30


I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12

Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.

Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -

Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y

Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C

The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.

If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.

OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.

I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.

u/artnik · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Another good option for hand shaping parts is 2 part epoxy modelling compound, like Apoxie Sculpt. When it cures it's rock solid and very rigid so even thin parts are structurally sound. It's not the cheapest, but I love having it around for repairs and makes. It's the bomb. https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-modeling-compound-x/dp/B000V58DS0

u/aardvarkpaul13 · 1 pointr/maker

It looks like you are all ready done with them, and they look great.
I really like apoxy sculpt. This is really easy to use, has an long work time, and you can really smooth it out with wet fingers. dries and sticks great.
https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-Natural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_5/141-7678837-0075305?ie=UTF8&qid=1524152792&sr=8-5&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt