Reddit mentions: The best sculpture modelling compounds

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

You can make it effectively solid, which will make it a lot more comfortable on your skin, especially if you want to wear for a while. Look for a product called instamorph. It's basically just little plastic beads that melt when put in hot water.

Melt a bunch of it and roll it into a cylinder about the diameter of a pencil. This way you can easily remelt it if necessary. Also put your ring in hot water so that it warms up a bit. Once both are good and hot, work the instamorph liberally into the groove; you want to have it spilling a little out of the groove. Be sure to push plastic into any air gaps.

Do one side, then melt more plastic and do the other side. Then put the whole thing in cold water for a while to cool.

All that's left now is to sand away the excess plastic and then polish it smooth. Start with a coarse grit, like 60 or 80, and get it pretty close to the shape you want. Then just use finer and finer grits to do your successive shaping and smoothing. A pack of different fine grits like this should be pretty good for what you need.

A few other thoughts:

• Be sure to round the edges slightly.
  
• Lay the sand paper on a flat surface and move the ring against the paper to get the front and back really flat and consistent.
  
• Wrap some sand paper around something round to do the inside of the ring.
  
• If your cage came with extra rings that you don't think you'd ever use, you can practice before committing to modifying the one that fits.
  
  I did this modification to my ring and it was like a whole different product. I couldn't go more than a day or so before my skin got pressed into the groove and became really tender. Now with a little lotion I don't have any problems down there from the ring.

ok. It took a bit but I understand. You really threw me off with the welding & 3d printing.

Pictures would still be useful as not all pipes are created equal.

You have 9" of copper pipe exiting the tub basin. Is it bare pipe or is it threaded? is there a coupling? what is the diameter?

does it look more like A,B,C,D https://sportbig.com/plumbing-diagram/bathtub-faucet-plumbing-diagram/attachment/add-a-shower-and-hand-shower-diverter-tub-spout-kits-for-bathtub-faucet-plumbing-diagram/

Depending on the internal diameter of the original spout could you cut the pipe back & add back the 3" later? You have a lot of choices here for couplers threaded/compression/solder

your best bet is to find a 9" spout with hand shower.

your second best option is to get permission & leave a 6" spout when you leave.

your third best option is to cut back 3" & add it back before you leave

your fourth best option is to use the 6" spout, an escutcheon & to fill the remaining gap with sugru or https://smile.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536268311&sr=8-3&keywords=thermo+plastic

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it will of course be ugly.

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This item may not seem very fun but it's used to make something super fun and awesome! My family and I go all out on halloween and decorate our house so it looks awesome! The final touches of course are our costumes. This year I'm planning on making a full mouth piece of pointy teeth. I already have the material to make the teeth itself but I need this to make the mouth piece so they stay in my mouth. It basically makes dentures haha they will look sort of like these. Oh and it's $9.99 :) Sunday Funday

Hey thanks for the shoutout man! And really cool/clever design!! I had never even considered using my own arm as part of the stock. Its really cool to see the designs that think outside of the box. Every design has its pros and cons but that's why the different variety is so good. We can all choose what will suit our needs best. It's a really good feeling to make something and leave your mark on this first gen of VR isnt it!!

PS i used this stuff when I made my 1st prototype. You might like it for making a different cup for your main controller if that one isn't exactly how you want it. It's really easy to mold and reusable. I just put some painters tape around my controllers before I molded it to it. Then after it hardened, it was a nearly perfect fit.

https://flic.kr/p/Yoz9Ph

https://www.amazon.com/Polydoh-Moldable-coloring-granules-polymorph/dp/B01N6Q9JSH

You're asking about epoxy "clay" rather than epoxy resin or glue?

The company Loctite makes all kinds of adhesives, including epoxy glue and instant/cyanoacrylate/"super" glue (plus other glues). Neither of those two types of glue will melt, although they may weaken a bit or darken, etc, with sufficient heat, and they won't emit bad "fumes" unless perhaps in huge amounts at higher temps.

I don't know that any epoxy clay comes in skin colors, but could be wrong. They're generally just painted after curing.
You could instead just use more of your Sculpey III though, or use another brand of skin-colored polymer clay (see below) or skin-colored bulk polymer clay like original Super Sculpey, although they won't necessarily turn out with the same translucence/opacity as your Beige Sculpey III (and btw, don't know if the "Beige" Sculpey III is the same color and translucence as "Beige" original Super Sculpey).

Here's some info I've written before (in a polymer clay Facebook group) linking to examples of the other skin-colored bulk polymer clays (not necessarily any that are also regular colors that come in 2 oz sizes), plus info on which are partly translucent, if you want to check them out:

Fimo Doll Art:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+skin+colors+Fimo+Doll+Art

Cernit Doll Clay:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+skin+colors+Cernit+Doll+Clay

ProSculpt:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Prosculpt

Sculpey's "Living Doll":
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Sculpey+Living+Doll

(regular) Super Sculpey:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Super+Sculpey+-Firm+-Medium

Sculpto Firm:
https://www.amazon.com/Sculpto-CEC15117-FIRM-Polyclay-Beige/dp/B01FWG8YAO (click on the 2 pics of sculpts on the upper right to see sculpted examples)

...............................

The brands/lines of polymer clay that make translucent flesh color/s (sold only in bulk) are:
...Cernit Doll clay (the most colors, I think)
...Fimo Professional Doll Art clay (some colors translucent, some opaque)
...Prosculpt
...Sculpey's Living Doll
...Sculpey's regular Super Sculpey (though more brittle after baking in thin areas than the others)

Various brands/lines make opaque flesh colors too, like Sculpto and various other polymer clay brands/lines you might have heard of.

I have the same bootleg and you might need something extra to fix those seams in his head. The cement might work, but what it actually does is melt two pieces of plastic together, so it doesn't really fill anything, it can actually melt plastic away if you use too much.

You might need an epoxy like Green Stuff or Apoxy Sculpt to fill them, which when mixed dries into a plastic like material.

You can try the cement, just don't use to much and you might be able to sand the seam line away.

Testors will probably work, I've never actually used it. Just make sure to thin your paints with water or acrylic thinner. It will take a few extra coats of paint, but it'll look smoother and nicer.

As for shiny vs matte it will come down to what finish/sealer you use. The clear gloss you ordered will be great for the shoes and nose, but you'll still want to seal the rest just to avoid paint rub/damage. I'd recommend getting a brush on Matte finish. Paint the whole figure, Seal the whole thing in matte, then brush on the gloss finish anywhere you want it to shine.

For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.

You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30


I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12

Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.

Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -

Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y

Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C

The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.

If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.

OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.

I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.

i had a patient that made his own denture that ive wrote about before. it was a nightmare. he had nonrestorable dentition and needed full mouth edentulation and denure fabrication. he couldnt afford it and disappeared for months. then on a friday at 430 he showed up as an emergency on my schedule. he used these beads that he bought off amazon that they make hollywood masks out of and stuff. i guess you heat it up to make it moldable? so he heated it in his oven and then shoved it in his mouth. it bonded to all of his tissue and remaining teeth. he had it in his mouth for 3 days before he had the courage to admit he needed help. i had to try t oget him numb under it (which was crazy difficult) and section it surgically. when it finally became removable, it brought teeth and tissue with it. he needed bone and tissue grafts, residual root tip exts, and a denture made afterward. all and all it ended up being way more expensive than if he would have just had regular ext and dentures made. this was maybe 5 years ago. i had taken a ton of pictures for liablity reasons at the time. but since then ive moved across the country and opened my own practices, so im pretty positive i dont have the pics anymore

edit: im pretty sure he used a material similar to this https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 ... it was definitely all white and looked more like a mouthguard than a denture

Not sure if you want something entirely empty like OP's base, but I just finished a set of 12 Bones skeletons (there's probably a joke there). Anyway, I used some plain 1" round bases and Apoxie Sculpt to blend the hunk of plastic down smooth with the base. Some of them are propped up on rocks I sculpted if their existing base was too wide for the new base. They all came out looking pretty nice and it didn't take too much effort. I can grab some photos later if you like.

I'm also very new to this so do take this advice with a grain of salt, there are probably better solutions out there, but this worked for me.

It looks like you are all ready done with them, and they look great.
I really like apoxy sculpt. This is really easy to use, has an long work time, and you can really smooth it out with wet fingers. dries and sticks great.
https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-Natural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_5/141-7678837-0075305?ie=UTF8&qid=1524152792&sr=8-5&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt

No problem at all!

That top section is just spare insulated electrical wire I had floating about, with those grey blobs formed out of Apoxie Sculpt. If you're not familiar with it, it's two-part epoxy clay that will harden to a rock a short time after you combine the two parts, so you can mold it to whatever shape you like and set it fairly quickly. I just slapped it around the wire and hoped for the best, but another option that might look neater is if you find rubber tubing just large enough to slide over the wire in those sections.

For the anchoring, I'm going to MacGuyver this, mostly because I'm having a brain fart and can't think of a search term for what I actually want, so let's start from the bottom of the construction. Get your bucket lid that you'll be using for the base. Epoxy (or screw, if you're feeling adventurous) a light bulb socket to the center -- this will provide that wide, stable base that I failed at when I was building mine. Scoop out a hollow in your styrofoam round large enough to make it sit around that socket, and cut a hole over the socket part. Glue the styrofoam to the bucket lid once you're sure everything lines up properly. We'll be adding the dowel next, but we need to see how long that dowel needs to be.

Take your mannequin head, and flip it upside down. You should see the hole in the bottom of the neck for conventional use. That will not be nearly deep enough. I speak from experience. If you're using a plastic one, you might need to drill to get past the stoppage at the end, if you're using styrofoam a long knife or screwdriver and some patience should work. Get all the way up into the head if you can, but at the very least get a few more inches to work with. Now take your dowel, and push it in as far as it will go. Mark that point on it, that's one end of the depth. Do the same into the socket under the foam. Measure to those marks and add them together, that is the total length of your dowel, cut it to that size.

The most important part here is getting a solid connection from the dowel into the socket. Epoxy should be strong enough, but whatever you use, make sure that the dowel is not moving, it will only end in tears. Once that's solid, cut a hole in the bottom of your (already colored) bucket and slide it down the dowel, attach to the foam round with epoxy. Volia. You have a solid anchor that's long enough to actually hold the head up. That should be able to handle bobbling around, if rotation becomes an issue and you don't expect to take the head back out, you can glue the head to the bottom of the bucket, but if removal might be needed, velcro should do the trick.

I hope that was clear enough!

Edit: Oh I'm a dumbass, you were probably asking about the part behind the wire at the top. That's actually part of the bucket I used and just painted to match, I went digging and found my old order for it. Not sure if that one in particular is still available, but as long as you have that little lip area where the lid connects, you should be fine.

Off the rack shoe trees probably aren't going to fit all the way to the end of the toe. None of mine do, at least. The only pair of shoe trees that fits the shoes perfectly are my Carmina forest lasted shoe trees, in my Carmina forest lasted shoes. You might be able to find a local woodworker who can try to get something like that going for you?

One idea that I have been toying with is to make my own shoe trees out of thermoplastic. There's stuff like this that can easily be molded into various shapes. I've played with some before. You can wait until it's not particularly hot to the touch, or wet to the touch (but not yet completely dry) before molding it. The idea is to stick that stuff into the toe of the shoe to get a mold for the front of the shoe. Then, seperately make a mold for the heel of the shoe. Then, whittle a piece of wood down until it fits well into the middle of the 2 pieces. I'd cut some grooves into the toe piece and the heel piece so the wood would fit nicely in the middle. I'd also cut some grooves along the length of the toe piece and the heel piece to allow a bit of air flow to the leather. It'd essentially make a lasted 3 piece shoe tree, like these from John Lobb. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, though.

You can make a comfortable holder for your lock using thermoplastic. It’s really inexpensive, super easy to use, very versatile and very forgiving. It comes in bags of plastic pellets that you can heat/melt using water from a kettle. Just add boiling water to the pellets and in a couple minutes they become soft and mouldable like clay. Form the plastic around the lock and when it cools you will have a custom made holder. Just search for “thermoplastic pellets” on Amazon. Here’s the type of plastic I’m talking about Thermoplastic Beads

And here’s a photo of a couple holders I made for a kik cylinder and a sparrows practice lock. Thermoplastic holders

Another good option for hand shaping parts is 2 part epoxy modelling compound, like Apoxie Sculpt. When it cures it's rock solid and very rigid so even thin parts are structurally sound. It's not the cheapest, but I love having it around for repairs and makes. It's the bomb. https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-modeling-compound-x/dp/B000V58DS0

Have you ever played around with this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFLU4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495313333&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=instamorph+moldable+plastic&psc=1

It's a plastic that turns clear, sticks to itself and gets a texture similar to silly putty when you put it in 55 degree Celsius water. Once it cools, the plastic hardens and is actually pretty durable. I made a cone shape like a party hat and smashed it with a hammer a few times and it flexed but sprung back into shape immediately. The plastic is remoldable if you just heat it back up. You could mold it into any shape or thickness you want, and it is actually pretty strong.

Honestly, the biggest thing is having the right tools. My friend is a circuit board engineer and he let me use his workshop which saved me days. From a technical perspective, nothing here is too difficult -- the tricky parts are in the details, like wiring up the original power switch and reset switch to work with the Raspi global input/output and somehow wiring up the LED light, but these things aren't really necessary for it to function, just added flair. Apart from that, you literally just throw the img file onto a micro sd card, put that on a raspi, mount the board to something and you're pretty much done.

That said, I did discover that this stuff is effing awesome.

I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:

• Coat with epoxy and/or use epoxy putty to deal with any large gaps or to make up for rough edges.
  
  
• Let it dry overnight
  
  
• Then LOTS of sanding. So, so much sanding. I honestly love this part, so carthartic.
  
  
• Spray paint automotive primer. I think the reason it has to be this specific type is because it does a good job of filling in the cracks and holes. I also give it a few rounds of sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper after priming to give it a silky smooth surface (yes, you can sand this type of primer!)
  
  
  My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
  
  Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.

To add to the good info above: for KDM miniatures you are pretty much guaranteed to need to use putty/epoxy for the gaps on them if you want them to look good painted. Most of the big monsters will have some very noticeable gaps when put together, and it is fairly common on some of the armor kit survivors too (especially the unarmored kit mentioned above - serious issues with "ken doll" arm sockets).

For larger gaps, I prefer milliput superfine white. It is firm enough you can shape it (add water to help change consistency if needed).
https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM

For smaller hairline graps, I really like Vallejo Plastic Putty. It doesn't require pre mixing and is easier to work with if you just need to get it into a tiny gap. Usually apply it then wipe off with wet cloth.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHCNLC

One idea I had for this is to use epoxie sculpt. It's a two part solid that you combine into a clay you can sculpt. It becomes hard as a rock after about a 30 minute working time or something like that. Using water can help smooth the surface.

I was thinking about trying this on a pick just to see if it would hold up to use since it'd be a really fast, easy way to get a completely comfortable grip molded to your hand and how YOU hold a pick.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UDWXI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know the feeling. Once I did my first foam build, I wanted to do more and more; not just for cons too! Also, it's never too late to add additional details or weathering to an existing costume.

Casting is a whole other world that I've only done a couple of times, w/out huge success unfortunately. So I've stuck to more time and budget friendly alternatives like foam clay and instamorph. For me, I found that foam clay was good for quick shapes and I could easily detail with a wood burner and dremel. As for instamorph, I've used this sparingly cause it involved being quicker moulding the plastic and having to use a more controlled dremel technique for adding details. BUT, its benefit is that it hardens nicely and will withstand more.

i assume you mean this outfit
https://www.cosplayhouse.com/images/commission/032017/31670/legend-of-zelda-breath-of-the-wild-game-cosplay-link-cosplay-costume-version-04-gerudo-outfit-001.jpg
so i am far from a cosplay expert, honestly i have never done it myself but for the fabric i imagine you could cut up some blankets or sheets and if you cant find it in the color required you can paint it then do some rudimentary stiching to form the cut cloth into a form you would like and if you looking for something to imitate metal i recommend this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Polly-Plastics-Moldable-Pellets-Included/dp/B00WRWKM6G/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1494643375&sr=8-9&keywords=moldable+plastichems , i cant tell if the gold hems at the top of the sleeves are metal or fabric but if its metal you could use the stuff i linked, for the pants i would think something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mrignt-Casual-Cotton-Elastic-Shorts/dp/B01ER8SOMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494643615&sr=8-1&keywords=jogger+shorts would work out if you bunched and/or cut them up to your knee (although it looks like those pants may go above the knee so you may need to get a longer version) to get that baggy look along with sealing them up with those other gold hems on the bottom of the legs in the link image and then just put a bunch of fabrics around your waist and paint/dye them (should probably also add embroidery for the designs) to look as they do in the image, hope that helped, but yea in summery, cut up a bunch of cloth for the head, torso, and arms, bunched up sweatpants (and maybe cut) for the pants, do some rudimentary stitching to put the stuff together (like the bra looking thing and the gold hems) and lots of dye/paint, keep in mind ive never cosplayed before but i feel like thats how i would do this one if i wanted to do it

I had a friend who has cerebral palsy and couldn't hold a crochet hook easily but liked to crochet. I came up with the idea of using thermoplastics to custom make a wrapped on handgrip for her crochet hook.

If holding pens is that challenging, maybe custom grips on your pens to allow them to be easily held with little pressure without slipping, if you customize a grip to fit how you hold a pen, is an answer. It would take experimenting, but it's an idea.

I built it so long ago that I don't remember the exact parts, but it was pretty simple.


They key thing I did was use hard boiled egg holders to hold the touch controllers. Basically you drop the bottom of your touch controller into this holder, then wrap your hand around the egg holder itself. Holding both the controller in the holder, and the holder itself.


The PVC parts are just 1' PVC pipe with a pair of PVC 90 degree elbows. You'll need something to cut the PVC pipe, a hacksaw works well, I used a dremel, or you can pickup a pipe cutter while you're on amazon


I also used one small piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe wrapped in duct tape to hold the AR-15 stock onto the end. This is a luxury, but as someone who shoots real guns a lot, having a real gun stock on the end of it really makes a difference to your cheek weld.. So if you want dat real AR feel, you can pickup an AR stock right here.. All you need is the plastic stock, the tube and all the other stuff isn't required. I just warpped the 3/4 inch PVC pip in tape until it fit VERY snuggly into one of the 1" PVC elbows. I left it about 6" long, so that the rreal AR-15 stock would slide over it. I used a bunch fo tape around the 3/4" PVC pipe until the AR-15 stock very snuggly.



You will also need some 5 minute epoxy, and I used some instamorph. I used the epoxy to glue the egg holders onto the PVC pipe, and then wrapped the bases in electrical tape. Make sure you scuff up the PVC pipe before putting the epoxy on. I used a knife to scratch it up, and then some snad paper to really rough it up. This helps the epoxy hold.



I wrapped the base of my touch controllers in plastic wrap, then I heated up the instamorph and placed a bunch of it in the egg holder. Then I pushed the touch controller into the egg holder, so that the instamorph took the shape of the touch controller. DO NOT use epoxy for this.



After that, all you need to do is cut your PVC pipe to length and put the 90 degree elbows on there. The AR 15 stock is optional, not required.


I also recommend a sling, so that you can pop your hands in and out of your stock as need be. When your done with the stock, it'll just hold on the sling. And old cheapy rifle sling will work.

I might have some work in progress pics but my approach is usually like this.

I spend some time using GIS looking at other people's ideas for a conversion. I start making a shopping list. With both of the models in this thread you have lots of parts from Skaven Hellpit Abomination, and Soul Grinder.

From there I poke around on ebay for a few days/weeks until I get all the bits I'm looking for. I try be careful of vendors that want to charge shipping for every bit, or I can order $7 worth of bits and pay $21 in shipping. Be patient.

The maggot head on the soul grinder was from ... I forget.. but it's like a big walking maggot head guy made by some other vendor than gamestop.

My shopping list included barrels (for pus), possessed limbs, and green stuff. Greenstuff isn't cheap so I often will use something else if I have to fill in large gaps

Miliput is about 1/2 the price of Greenstuff but there are tradeoffs It's more like something you would use to make a ceramic out of. It practically melts when you get water on it, but you need it wet. Not great for details, but perfect if you just need to fill in a big gap.

For those big gap areas (a space of more than 1" needs to get filled in) what I do sometimes is wad up some aluminum foil. Stuff that in the hole. Then I cover it with the Miliput. This gives the model the structure I needed. Once that is there, I can just use the greenstuff for the cosmetic work, not the structural part.

Things usually start off looking really bad. You just have bits jammed all up together, but you keep adding a little more filler in here, and there, and it starts coming together. Once you get the primer on (fyi Miliput takes a few more coats to cover). it starts to take shape.

While I have no experience making prop guns, I have made prop swords using PVC fake-wood, which is very easy to cut and sand. I usually cut the general shape of the sword, then use a dremel to sand to a better shape. Once I am happy with the shape, I do detailing with Apoxie Sculpt, which becomes rock hard, but can make some very nice details.

However, I usually do a single piece construction, so more complex shapes like guns may need to be made separately and assembled. If you aren't happy with the detail on pepakura files, I would recommend trying to use Apoxie Sculpt to add the details once the model has been hardened.

Yep, I experienced the same problems as well with the tape and wrapping so I experimented with all different soft and hard materials thinking that soft materials would be more comfortable as I would sometimes get pinches etc. But I think the pinching actually comes from the movement in the soft material creating mini creases in the skin which then pinches over time. Also before taping at the start, I would make sure to unroll any creases in the skin but would still get pinches until I custom moulded my own size and shape ring.

Edit: Yes there are all different brands but the link you posted is exactly the tub I bought haha. https://smile.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-Ounce/dp/B00D3LAZ9O?sa-no-redirect=1

Oh yeah I should have mentioned that. I have this two-part sculpting epoxy (Aves, here: https://www.amazon.com/Aves-Apoxie-Sculpt-White-pound/dp/B0013UFM7M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523965655&sr=8-3&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt)

You take the two parts and smoosh them together like clay and roll and mix them until they're a uniform smoothness. I used about a nickel-sized amount of each for the Surfer head. So once it's mixed, I stuffed it into the empty cavity of the head, then placed the head onto the neck ball joint, letting the epoxy form a mold around the ball. I let it sit like that for a minute just to ensure a good mold, then took off the head again. I let it sit about 24 hours. The epoxy will harden and solidify in that time. After it was cured, I had a perfectly-molded socket for the ball joint on Surfer's neck.

You could do the same thing with Green Stuff or Sculpy as well, if you can't get Aves.

In 2011 I did a scary pumpkin head mask... I got a foam pumpkin at Michael's, carved a face in it, and made an opening at the bottom so I could wear it. I fastened a brimless baseball cap inside so it would fit securely. Then I put a piece of clear plastic inside the eyes at an angle, and mounted LED eyes inside the top of the mask, pointing down. Because of the plastic reflector, from the front the LED eyes looked like they were deep inside the mask. (same technique as the Terminator mask in this video)

This year I plan to revisit the concept, but with better carving. I will use some Apoxie to give the pumpkin some thickness near where it's carved. I'll put a closet push-light inside the forehead and run a wire out of the head so I can switch it on when I want, and I'll wear this mask directly on my face.

I'm planning to cut the mask into a face part and a jaw part, and fasten both parts to a morphsuit face stocking so the mask mouth moves with mine. It should be pretty unsettling.

I use this stuff called apoxie sculpt, it is great for that stuff. it mixes in two parts (like an epoxy) stays workable for about 2 hours, adheres to almost anything, is pretty cheap and hardens like the original plastic substance.

*oh, and it can be tooled once cured.

I've had very good results with this stuff. Has a much longer sculpt time. Water soluble. Dries hard but with a stoney, chalky texture that makes it great for carving details if you need. Because it's water soluble, you can work it into the seams, then wipe off the excess with a cloth and get a perfect fill which doesn't need sanding.

Also, remember that you can always try stuff on scrap pieces. No need to guess how it will come out.

Sweet. Keep us up to date on the ammo counter! Get this, stuff works great =)

Oh damn, thanks for the advice, I love Havoc! It's partly why I bought a launcher in the first place.


I have a few more questions, if you'll humor me...


I already have some JB Weld: plastic bonder do you think it'll work?


I've been using this for my epoxy putty needs, but obviously it'll be expensive for this. Would Apoxie sculpt be a fine substitute?


The "mouth" on my launcher seems closer to 2.25 inches than to 2.5 inches. Did you widen the mouth of your blaster to fit the 2.5 inch stress balls or something?


Is this what you're using for ammo?


Do you think this would be a better fit?


Sorry if I'm being a bother, I'm just excited by everything.

What kind of advice are you looking for? Most fursuits heads are made of foam or resin. The foam is generally carved using a electric knife or a serrated knife. It needs to have teeth. An alternative would be to use something like Varaform, It is not used in the fandom that iv seen. I would assume long term structural issues and the fact that its soft at 160F.

If you haven't already, get a styrofoam head from a place like hobby lobby to assist with modeling. If you plan to do this a lot, id spend money on an life sized bust from monster makers or some other place.

Also check out Apoxie Sculpt Its commonly used around the eyes on fursuits, and is easy to work with. One of the nice things is that early in the setting 30-40 min in you can dip your finger into water and smooth out most of the scratches and some lumps to give a smooth finish.

As this is just the chamber portion, I recommend getting a good chunk of a thermoplastic like (InstaMorph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_96RKzbBT7Z845)

Or you could maybe use a modelling clay. I would go with a cook gold colour or something, and then wrap a design around it, partially for strength, and partially for looks.

Not 3D printing related, but it sounds like InstaMorph or similar would be useful to you as well.

I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt; the regular is a grey color. Tutorial hereSame two-part compound idea, but it will thin (and clean) with water before hardening and is a finer grain than green stuff (so it files/sands nicer (smoother). Very easy to manipulate & shape with wax shaping tools

One Idea I have had for this was the usage of products like Gorilla plastic or InstaMorph to create an ergonamical Grip espacially designed for my Hand, like Tournament Guns are having it.

This product has a pretty long working life, so you'll have time to mold it exactly as you want it while it hardens, without sanding it later. Maybe rub a little piece of smooth wood over it, or use a putty knife, after you apply it, for a good edge. Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White. Good luck.

This is a perfect opportunity to use polymorphic thermoplastic. There are lots of inexpensive options, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Polydoh-moldable-plastic-polymorph-plastimake/dp/B01LZUZ2DR

You should check out this moldable plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Polymorph-Moldable-Mouldable-Thermoplastic-JackieTD/dp/B075BRMQSZ/ref=asc_df_B075BRMQSZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309782145289&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13062863260118143536&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015640&hvtargid=pla-591463909160&psc=1 If you put it in hot water it molds like Silly Putty, then it hardens to a pretty sturdy plastic. You can heat it up again later and mold it again. It's also good for fixing stuff.

I'd recommend redoing the wording using an epoxy modeling clay. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/

You'll have much nicer lines that way. Hot glue isn't really much good for creating a finished surface.

Perfect, how did you do it????

could you tell me where you buy it? the link is same as your plastic? thank you very much https://www.amazon.com/Moldable-Plastic-Thermoplastic-Beads-8OZ/dp/B077874HM8/ref=sr_1_7?crid=AA001UJLOU4&keywords=moldable+plastic&qid=1572949076&sprefix=moldable+plas%2Caps%2C-1&sr=8-7

Never cared for the ZS Crossbow, but minimized and painted it looks pretty cool.

An alternative to epoxy putty is Apoxie Sculpt. Pwntatoz has a good video on it.

Yea, I broke some off its fingers taking the supports off my prints of this model as well. And really your print looks as good as mine does. Maybe you could slow print speed down a little more, to like 1500 mm / min, and get the remaining fingers to look a little more round.

I use a product off Amazon called InstaMorph to mold replacement parts for stuff that I can't just glue back together.

Stupid good for modeling and so strong that 24hrs after I mixed it I sometimes carve it with a dremel, amazing modeling clay.

The feet are indeed terrible, and so are the backs of the legs. The upside is that those parts are hollow because they're going to be seen the least, so you don't have to make it perfect. I gave up on making it perfect at least, too much work.

I use Milliput Superfine for most of it. It's suitable for large fillings. I then use some tamiya basic putty over any little cracks left over, that's the gray stuff, since it shrinks and is more suited for small fillings and since it's just easier.

Ok good because I’d recommend this stuff. It’s very easy to work with and fill holes. A little tip is to wet your fingers down after it’s pretty much in place and smooth it out. It takes awhile to set up but after that a little sanding and paint away.

This is what I use for my customs.



Example



It's really sturdy & you can even get long/thin/sharp details without worrying about them breaking off.



Look up some tutorials & be sure to play around with it.



Haven't used it but a lot of people say "Green Stuff" is good too.



Just whatever you do, stay away from any air/bake dry clays I've yet to see any custom using those turn out decent.

You could make a custom extension using a moldable thermoplastic like instamorph. You soften the plastic with a hair dryer or by submerging it in boiling water and then you can form it into whatever shape you like.

Just be sure it's up to code, as other people in this thread have mentioned.

Milliput is pretty good at this.

https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527463101&sr=8-2&keywords=milliput

That's bad ass, thanks for the tip. A lot cleaner then what I've been doing. I've been using the roll from an ace bandage cut to length and wrapping it in tape. It does the job, but it can bend and warp, so it's annoying.

Edit: Are there varieties? Easy enough to buy just by googling? This Stuff?

I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.

You could try polymer clay or a product called Apoxy Sculpt that I found on amazon. I've used this with great success.
Apoxy Sculpt

Man you are fast. It's a plastic that is mouldable when over 100 degrees C and cools to solid. Like 3D printing without the printer or accuracy.

I bought Plastimake, but there are tonnes of versions like it on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-17-8/dp/B00D3LAZ9O)

Buy this for all your Pops that don't stand. We have over 900 Pops, and this is the best thing to use that we've tried.

r/https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536279608&sr=8-2&keywords=instamold

Nice! I did the whole thing at 250%, and yes, the ribs were terrible. I ended up using a spray lacquer in several coats on them, and they were still fragile... I also used some of this with the black color pellets to match my Black PLA, to reinforce some areas like the knees and the neck joint where it connects to the head.

Another great material for repair is Instamorph:

InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

This stuff is awesome for this exact use InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MknVDb38RJJWA

Get some water-moldable plastic like this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Hot+water+plastic+mold&qid=1554581119&s=gateway&sr=8-6




Mold some face bases, and pour a resin of your choice in. You can cut up the bases to form larger shapes or sections to glue onto big bases. The results look pretty good with a little green stuff and paint

It was originally the little plastic monster that came with the Alisa Ilyinichna Omela Nendoroid
I used an exacto knife to shave all the plastic parts off to make the right body shape, then took apoxy sculpt clay to make the body texture and spikes, then I sprayed Tamiya Grey Primer on top, then painted it black/white/red with Tamiya acrylic paints.
I hope this helps.

I use the super white so its easy to paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAJ6KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sounds good! I got mine on Amazon.
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sm7-AbS384KVZ

If it's not too late, I've had success with Aves Apoxie.

https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-White-modeling-compound/dp/B0013UFM7M

Run a search on action figure customizers using the stuff for tutorials.

I bought 3 different ones this one actually shoots darts, so its mechanism is pretty sturdy. The one I used was [This] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SICR6O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cheapie. It has a working mechanism, but I didn't need it to function, so I only used the hammer, frizzen, backplate, and trigger guard, then modified them with thin, homemade Worbla. (To make metal-smooth Worbla, mix [Instamorph] (https://smile.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504898165&sr=8-2&keywords=instamorph+pellets) with a small amount of ordinary flour. Put it in a glass pan and heat it in an oven until the plastic gets soft, then carefully mix them together and knead until evenly combined. It's smoother than real Worbla, which uses wood fibers as a filler, and a LOT cheaper!)

Here's mine! I'm looking to continue working on a project of mine and I need some of it!

As for April Fools... oh boy. My dad was a cruel person. The house I grew up in had a playset in the backyard and us kids used it daily, so it was a big part of our lives. My dad had some of his buddies come over the night before April Fools Day and had them help take the entire playset out of the ground and move it to one of their yards down the street. The next morning, he came and woke us up yelling that it had been stolen. As a 6 year old at the time, I cried. He didn't even tell us it was a joke until later that night.

I'll make a long story short by saying that I won a car our my school's after prom party. I was at the top of the bleachers. Celebrated a little bit too much when they called my name. Fell all the way down the bleachers. In front of 1600 people.

Plastic glue is an evil set out to frustrate new people to the hobby. Initially enticing, incredibly limited, long term damaging, and overall a waste of money. Beware. Always only use super glue.

There, now we're done with that.

It's not plastic, it's resin.

Best practice is to lightly rub it with soap and water and wait for it to completely dry.

Take a xacto and file to it to even out connecting faces. It can often be warped as well. If so, google methods to reshape warped resin. It's been a while for myself.

Use super glue only to glue it.



Then use super glue to clue it together.

Buy this.

Fill the gaps. Sand as necessary.

Molding plastic is your friend.

InstaMorph is pretty much the same thing except it doesn't expire and is less expensive. (I haven't actually used either one, so I could be wrong...)

Sugru or moldable plastic. Save what you don't use for another fix.

Ah, thanks again! Here's the apoxie I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013UDWXI?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

[I've seen this stuff recommend. You heat it and mold it to form a lil bumper. ](InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFDFVLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I38hzbRKBY21N)

The aforementioned 3m tape is a good alternative too.

I use Devcon Plastic Welder to bond parts, and Milliput Superfine White as additional structural support and filler and to blend the shells together.

You could try some epoxy sculpt. It hardens like plastic. Also you should still be able to bend the wing one it sets.

Apoxie Sculpt 1/4 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UFM7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C3CDDbWFCK76G

I recommend apoxie sculpt. You can fill the crack smooth it out and when it dries paint over it. I use it all the time for all sorts of stuff. It should work fixing this.

Maybe like this.

InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12oz (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFDFVLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ndnWBbHD0CZGC

there's two types of putty, basic putty for filling in tiny holes, gaps or panel lines. and the other is epoxy sculpting putty. this is the stuff for bigger jobs like adding custom details or redefining "parts". tamiya sells some and so do other brands, i personally use this

You could modify your mouse with something like ShapeLock or Instamorph. It's a plastic called polycaprolactone which you can soften in near-boiling water and hand-mold into anything you want. When it cools, it turns into a hard, sturdy, paintable plastic.

I was working on something like this, but I kind of gave it up in favor of cooler projects... my ideas were:

1. Simply put, instead of holes mounting in nylon nuts, and using the corresponding bolt heads as the nubs (nylon so it didn't scratch up the switches)
   
   OR
   
   
2. The less complicated but not as cool method, using thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is a plastic that is moldable with heat, so heat it up, form small balls, and stick them partway in the holes, with a bit sticking up to form the nubs. When you want to switch it just pop it in some hot water, and they get soft again.

oh dear, those don't look standard at all. My bad. You could try to mold your own replacement using something like this, or just glue on the rubber tips from another pair of earbuds (though I can see why you might be reluctant to do something like that).

Amazon would be just fine.

Amazon link to the mega tub because mega tub

Thermomorph Moldable Plastic Pellets - 17.6 Ounce Mega Tub

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3LAZ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tDyzbDEVHFXH

[text you want your link to show](address you want your link to go to)

So, in your case:
[InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12oz](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFDFVLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I38hzbRKBY21N)

Becomes:

InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12oz

It often depends on what your end goal is. Some sculpting putty is going to be a bit softer and rubbery as it cures, while others will be very hard.

I like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for most projects. It's very hard when it cures, but you can work a decent amount of detail into it if you sculpt it after it's been out a while, but before it totally cures.

Thrift store or craigslist would probably be your best bets.

Depending on your school, you might be able to get some pieces on loan from a theater department?

For adding details on your costumes and accessories, maybe ask around and see if a school/library/local hackerspace can get you access to a 3d printer. If all else fails, a ten dollar bag of thermoplastic and some spare time can go a long way for making/modifying props and adding details at a super low budget.

As a side note, thermoplastic is also a lifesaver for building/repairing weird ass mounts, accessories, and holders for shit at the last minute.

Apoxie Sculpt

Should I use [this sort of putty stuff] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Milliput-Superfine-White-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410973369&sr=8-5&keywords=2+part+epoxy) or the liquidy type?

edit: just found this stuff... do you think it might work?

this stuff is the same thing in pellet form http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463054497&sr=8-2&keywords=mold+plastic

I've been thinking of making one for myself...

Tin

Moldable Plastic

https://youtu.be/v7Np50hwSBg?t=1m28s


Mirror

I saw a tutorial where they used apoxie sculpting clay.
It’s this one here.

SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GAPFDbPW0RSP7

Apoxie Sculpt 1 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9APFDb4BZREHF

Sand Detailer Finishing Kit, Finer Grits, 24 piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039ZCQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BCPFDbBV5SSGW

SERONLINE 24pcs Ball Stylus Dotting Tools, Polymer Modeling Clay Sculpting Tools Set Rock Painting Kit for Sculpture Pottery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776SN7Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDPFDbTH56VM0

Monster Clay Premium Grade Modeling Clay (5lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722NKKYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dEPFDb1WPY7K2

My go to would be modable plastic

​

https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FVJT0JSSW1NJFE23J74N

Apoxie Sculpt. Get one of the $40 sets and it’ll last you years.

Apoxie Sculpt 4 lb. White, 2 part modeling compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QAKT94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BlxACbSB2K158

Ain't this the same stuff?

https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Stuff-Kneadatite-sculpting-Painter/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498139132&sr=8-2&keywords=green+stuff

Amazon.ca is showing alternatives too...

https://www.amazon.ca/Milliput-Superfine-White-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498139132&sr=8-1&keywords=green+stuff

Look for Canadian sculptor/mouldmaker people and/or propmakers working in Resin, and you'll find the right kind of stores I think :P

I'm going to be buying one of two different epoxy fillers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milliput-Epoxy-Putty-Superfine-White/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480860814&sr=8-1&keywords=white+epoxy

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004NB3OMS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I've been reccomended the second one but the issue is that it means I'll have to paint it since it's a browny tan colour cure. Therefore might end up buying the white Milliput instead.

One of my guys make tips out of a moldable plastic.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_2CqrybK72VEP9

Fill with this stuff?

I've looked into things a bit more and now I think I will try thermopellets before 3D printing something.

This is Milliput Superfine White, http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002CNEWAM

Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ELPYitNbibRMJ

Apoxie sculpt seems to be the standard for custom POP Vinyl figures.

http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI

https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013UFM7M/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yea that's it. I didn't realize they spelled it with an A

This stuff.

Aves is a "apoxy" clay. It air drys so you don't have to bake anything. It's not an epoxy it's an apoxy. Not sure if apoxy is a real word though.

Welcome to the world of moldmaking. I've had moderate success using this method:

You'll need Instant Mold - a low temp plastic that hot water will make maleable.

And Milliput - a 2 part putty.

Put the Instant Mold in hot water, let it soften. Pull it out and press your base into it. Hold it under cold water so it 'hardens'. Peel out your base and you'll have a negative mold. Use the Putty to fill the negative mold, let it harden overnight and then pull out the hardened putty base. It'll probably need some cleanup around the edges but you're done.

I’m going on 4 years hiding the fact that I have no front teeth from everyone in my life, thanks to instamorph and similar products.

It’s a hassle having to remake them everytime they wear down, but I have an almost two year old and I can’t afford to replace my front teeth.


Instamorph to me is a little too hard to work with, so I mix it about 50:50 with a different thermoplastic I found on amazon. The result is something that gets more malleable for making the actual teeth, I use it to hide three front ones that broke/fell out/etc.

My girl of 13 years has no idea what I go through, I’ve never shown anyone besides my buddies two young kids what I look like without anything in .

But it feels nice to not have to completely hide my mouth when I’m talking. Just be careful of certain foods.


Pasta sauce and Cheese sauce are killers and leave terrible stains on the surface.


Hopefully one day I’ll be able to get something legitimate done and smile for pictures again... until then, 8-10 bucks every six months Keeps me from completely shutting myself down from the outside world.



Here’s a link to the other stuff I mix with the instamorph.

It has a slightly lower “melting” point.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077874HM8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Damn that sucks, is it a handle or does air actually have to travel thru it?

If it's just a handle I bet something like this would work
http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gn20MrtUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1EXNH8K3Z8F6KFXHQF54

Bro, I had a 99 Maxima with those exact same keys... both copies of the key broke the same way. I just got some moldable plastic like Instamorph and bridged the gap on the key. Sucks though... you drop those keys once and boom.

I'm assembling Skitarii from Warhammer 40k atm, and I'm really struggling with liquid greenstuff. It's total crap.

While glueing I pressed the edges together and it looked nice. There even came a bit melted plastic out of the line, so I sanded it down but there is still a very small visible gap.

The thing is, it is really distracting because it goes across the cloak of the mini... Would Milliput work to get a smooth surface?

​

https://www.amazon.de/Milliput-Epoxy-Putty-superfein-weiß/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1537424527&sr=1-1&keywords=miliput

is this the right one?