Reddit mentions of Bondo Glass, Short Strand Reinforced Fiberglass Filler, Stage 2, 2.56 lb./1.1 kg

Loootttts of experience with this. Honestly, nowadays, I'm as likely to get an arm workout at a session from rubbricking and/or filming as a leg workout from miszouing, haha.

I'm not sure what grit mine are, as Home Depot and Lowe's only sell one model each. In my experience the Home Depot ones are much better (bright blue handle), I got a bunch from Lowe's (darker blue rubberized handle) on closeout a year ago and they wear really fast. Not sure if the new brand Lowe's replaced those with is good or not, I'll know in a year or two when my current stash wears out.

The A-Mall video does a good job of covering basics, I'll make some additional points.

Ideally you want a virgin ledge- no wax, moss, paint, etc. Just bare-ass concrete. Once you wax the ledge, the effectiveness of your rubbrick goes down about 90%, as the wax smooths out/clogs your rubbrick. You can melt the wax later with a torch or lighter, and mop it up with some paper towels or try scrubbing it off with a wirebrush, but just try to keep your brick "dry" in the first place.

What I usually do is keep two or three bricks in my car's spot kit- one or two new-ish bricks, for the bulk of the work on clean/dry areas; and an older worn or cracked one, that is now the "junk" brick- this is used for blending into waxed areas, bricking something that's painted, trying to smooth out a section with old/shitty wax, etc. Basically for the messy stuff that you want to keep your newer rubbrick(s) away from until they're worn/cracked and they become the next junk brick. For this stuff I also find that using the corner/edge of the brick can be useful, and kinda scrapes the wax/paint off instead of it all adhering to the brick.

I usually 'brick and wax the top of the ledge a little wider than most people- i like to do about the length of the long side of the rubbrick from the corner. This is so if you touch a front or back wheel on a groove trick you don't stick as hard.

Use some muscle. This is going to be hard work. You only get one chance at this before waxing, so don't half-ass this. Do the top really well but also do a good job on the corner (or bevel if your locale likes beveled edges as much as Detroit), and the side. You put a lot of pressure into the side of the ledge with your frame when you lock or jump out of a soul trick, do don't skimp.

Ideally, wear some lung protection. A proper respirator, or a simple paper mask. If nothing else, pull your t-shirt up over your nose. You want to avoid breathing this dust in, it is not good for your lungs.

A soft-ish broom or masonry brush is best for dusting the ledge off, but you can improvise with a rag/towel/t-shirt, or a tree branch, or a newspaper. You'll figure it out. Keep your lungs protected during this part too!

Sweep the dust off the ground too! It's slippery and can get in your bearings and it just looks bad anyways. You should be a ninja with your street skating- leave as little evidence as possible.

Once it's dusted is when I personally will fill chunks/seams with Bondo Glass, which is Bondo with a fiberglass additive, which makes it very hard and strong when dry, unlike plain Bondo. This stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/272-Bondo-Glass-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

Depending on how much hardener you add, it can be dry and skateable within 20 minutes. Too much hardener and it's too stiff to work with though! Go for a dark dark brown consistency once mixed. Err on the side of less hardener if unsure. If you have helpers, rubbrick around the chunks and seams first, have one person work on the Bondoing while the others rubbrick the rest of the ledge.

I cut up old skate boxes into ~6"x6" squares for application- the shiny ones work best. One square for mixing, one for applying and shaping. Grab some paint mixer sticks for free from the paint department for mixing and scooping your Bondo onto your square. You can open the top of the can with a quarter if necessary.

Don't build up the Bondo past the level of the ledge. Ideally you want to fill the chunk/seam and have it be level. Don't work it too much, try to get it in the chunk and smooth it with one or two passes. With some practice you'll learn the right pressure to scrape it with to get it level with the ledge surface.

Some disposable gloves are really handy for the Bondoing- it sticks to skin quite effectively once dry.

Now you can wax. Some people swear by quick-drying spray lacquer before waxing but I've never found it to do much for me. It's cheap though so try it out if you want.

I like to do a first layer of harder wax (skate-branded wax, candles) and then a top layer of softer wax if necessary (paraffin/Gulf wax).

yeah thats not too bad

remove those anchors and sand the area down

hammer that wheel well straight

then use some kitty hair to fill in the holes and remaining uneven areas

primer

matching paint in a rattle can and 2 coats of clear

it will take you a weekend

if your temps are still 70+ you need that to cure the filler and for the paint

its not going to look perfect but its not going to look like you were trying to hang drywall on your car.

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https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-00277-Glass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

sandable primer filler .. many coats

a can of duplicolor spray paint and clear

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and that depends on how much you care about the paint.. duplicolor will be better than you have if you spray just that area .. don't spray the door.. and the paint won't last very long maybe 1-2 years but its going to look better than holes.. if you want it to look good and last you have to use professional paint which will cost you about $100 for a kit of paint at a local autobody supplier with clear and then you need a compressor and paint gun.

vs $10 in spray paint at your local autoparts store for matching paint which might be kinda somewhat close .. don't paint the door or much of the quarter panel .. tape and news paper off everything but about an inch from the damage .. its gonna look better than it does and cost you $40 for both sides vs $400