Reddit mentions of DIYE Electric Skateboard Power Switch 10AWG ON Off DIY Button Switch Anti-Spark High Voltage High Amp 180A 4-12S Longboard

Specs:

• 2x 6374 180kv motors
  
  
• MBS all-terrain wheels
  
  
• 2x pulley kit (36:13)
  
  
• 2x motor mounts
  
  
• Caliber II Trucks (I have wider Torqueboard 218 trucks coming so I can mount both motors inside)
  
  
• Antispark switch
  
  
• FSESC 200A
  
  
• 2x 6s 6000mAh Lipos
  
  
• Deck from a longboard I bought like 4 years ago
  
  
• Both enclosures were 3d printed with ProtoPasta carbon fiber and TPU washers that vary in thickness to compensate for the contours of the board (my own design).
  
  
• bearings
  
  
• Dual charger
  
  
• other various screws, nuts, wires, connectors, solder, etc
  
  
  Total Cost: Approx. $1200
  
  
  Additional notes:
  
  
• This was my first time using this brand of carbon fiber filament and I have to say its insanely strong, knocking on the back of the case, which is only 5mm thick, feels like knocking on a brick wall, its nothing like any filament i've ever used before and prints surprisingly well but will destroy brass nozzles (which cost pennies anyways).
  
  
• I've gotten it up to 26mph so far, with plenty of throttle left to go (I'd honestly say I didn't hit over 50% throttle). It's been about 2 years since I've rode my longboard, and I've only tried a friends boosted board once about a year ago, so I still need to build up to going fast. A more experienced rider got it up to 29mph and said he still had throttle to spare. So so far no one has been willing to top it off, I'll report back once I get some numbers. I will say that it accelerates faster than most if not all brand name boards.
  
  
• Yes I am aware that I fucked up my rear motor, I have since fixed the issue... Whoops.

What I did right

• Bought high-quality parts (mostly)
  
• Laser-cut center logo
  
  • I originally tried cutting this out of grip tape. The results were... suboptimal. The laser-cut plastic looks amazing and was only ~$10 after free credits. I ordered it through Ponoko. New accounts get a $20 credit towards making stuff, and they have a huge range of materials to choose from. I used this material, which comes with adhesive pre-applied as well as being quite flexible.
    
• Custom fiberglass enclosure
  
  • This was probably the part of the build that took the longest. Due to me not sizing the enclosure correctly (see below), I decided it would be easier to make an enclosure rather than scouring the internet for one that fit. This was my first time working with fiberglass, so it turned out a little rough. But it does the job and conforms to my deck way better than any pre-bought enclosure ever would. It’s currently secured to my deck with screws threaded directly into the wood. The holes are strengthen with superglue. So far this has worked well (5+ screw in/outs), we’ll see if it holds up. If the holes start stripping I’ll just put some threaded inserts in.
    
• Installed a Bluetooth module
  
  • Although I haven’t gotten wireless configuration working yet, it’s really nice being able to see stats on your phone. I’m on iOS and use the Xmatic app which is very-well designed. It even comes with a companion Apple Watch app so you can easily check your speed and battery life while riding.
    
    

    Mistakes I made
    

    
    

1. I didn’t add extra clearance to the battery size when shopping for an enclosure. I originally bought this enclosure from MBoards. But either the enclosure or the battery was slightly bigger/smaller than the advertised dimensions and the entire enclosure bowed out when I tried shoving the battery in. Cables never had a chance of fitting. This turned out to be a bit of a moot point anyways, because...
   
2. I choose a deck with too much flex/bow. Even if the enclosure did fit the battery, attaching it to the underside of my deck would have severely warped it.
   
3. I destroyed two $10 42V chargers. The first was destroyed by plugging it in backwards to the battery (i.e. red -> black and black -> red on the battery connector). We don’t talk about the second one. ^(Ok maybe I plugged it in the exact same way expecting something else yes I’m an idiot)
   
4. I didn’t cut the grip tape very cleanly. Lots of rough edges, grip tape is harder to apply properly than it looks.
   
5. My paint job on the enclosure turned out a little sloppy because I didn’t properly secure the stencil.
   
   

   Potential upgrades
   

   
   

• New paint job on bottom (I might just go all-black and remove the design)
  
• New grip tape (with more consistent edges)
  
• Reverse-mounted motor (so I can use my dropdown like it was intended)
  
• Sleeker fiberglass enclosure
  
• Handle (I have no idea how to do this, any suggestions are welcome)
  
  

  Parts
  

  
  

• Motor Mount
  
• Pulley System
  
• 3250W 180KV Motor
  
  • This thing has an insane amount of torque, it chews up hills without slowing down at all. Very happy with this motor.
    
• Remote
  
• Caliber II Trucks
  
• Power Switch
  
• Longboard Deck
  
  • It’s cheap. Didn’t expect much, but it’s actually fairly nice (at least for a traditional longboard; as noted elsewhere there’s a bit too much flex for it to be a good electric board).
    
• Orangatang Kegel Wheels
  
• VESC
  
• BLE Module
  
• Charger
  
• 10S3P Battery Pack
  
  • This battery with its integrated BMS was plugged in to charge with its polarity accidentally reversed twice (see above), and it still works great.
    
    I spent a total of ~$770 on this board (including wasted parts). It's more than I wanted to spend but I expect it'll last a long time.
    
    Specs:
    
    
• Top speed: 28 MPH (in theory, I've only actually gone up to 16 MPH because of safety concerns :P)
  
• Range: 25-30 miles (extrapolated from the voltage drop on a ~2 mile ride, haven't had time to go on a ride that fully drains the battery)