Reddit mentions of GoControl WD500Z-1 Z-Wave 500-Watt Wall-Mount Dimmer Switch

Yep looks like you need two on of and one dimmer

GoControl WD500Z-1 Z-Wave 500-Watt Wall-Mount Dimmer Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RLtPAb4V5KHD2

LINEAR GoControl, WS15Z-1, Zwave Wall Mount Switch,White,Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1OQN8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rMtPAbJ00H1Q2

Do you have a dimmer instead of a switch? The difference is important.

I use this for my florescent lights. It clicks when you turn on or off the light. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YUOWC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this for other dimmable lights. The light (and assume the power to the bulb) ramps up to full power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you tried replacing the bulb? Is your garage cold? Cold effects these bulbs pretty drastically. When it's cold (<30°) mine only operate at about half the brightness for a few minutes.

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry
http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-2&keywords=z+wave+switch



This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/2gig-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-Dimmer-White/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-4&keywords=z+wave+switch


Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

If you haven't already committed to Lutron, you might take a look at Linear/2gig/GoControl's (jeez, they need to get their branding under control) Zwave switch and accessory switch. There's also a dimmer.

The switch or dimmer directly controls the light. The accessory switches don't have an actual switch - they just send wireless commands to the switch to turn off or on. The accessory switches will need power at the location you install them. You'll also need some sort of controller to set up the association between the switch and the accessory switches.

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

You don't think that it will look silly to have these on your light switch? Changing light switches is not hard. Get the proper tools (no contact tester, wire stripper, wire nuts), and look at YouTube videos. 110v won't fry you, just give you a little shock - if that helps ease your mind. If you're really worried about it, you can always turn off the breaker main to turn off power to the entire house - that way there is no chance the circuit you're working on will be live.

Here's a good installation video. It's the guide for these switches, I have a bunch of them around my house, they're priced right and each to install. This assumes you have a z-wave hub to use that switch.

I have all of these on my Smartthings network and they work great.


GoControl WS15Z-1 Z-Wave Non-Dimming Wall Switch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OQN8Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

2gig WD500Z-1 Z-Wave Wall Dimmer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00



When there is no neutral wire...
Cooper Wiring Devices RF9518WS Aspire RF Single-Pole Wireless Light Switch, 8-Amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SCY8HM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


For 3 way switch...
Linear Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

Something to consider. The GE switches require a "runner" wire for 3 way application. The linear zwave switches do not require this extra wire. The accessory switches talk yo the master switch via wireless. You can look at the wt500z for a 500watt dimmer switch or the wt00z for the accessory switch

Linear WD500Z-1 Z-Wave 500-Watt Wall-Mount Dimmer Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6ln9ybYH0J3GY

Unfortunately this won't be a cheap hobby, but those are good. I've also had success with Linear switches for a little cheaper.

This Linear dimmer is what I have in my house. I only run higher wattage incandescent bulbs with it, but I purchased it for the very reason that I read that it will work with lower wattage dimmable LED bulbs in the Amazon comments should I ever decide to replace them. Its also cheaper than the GE, and doesn't buzz like the GE bulbs (which I can confirm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ya....
I understand that.
If you aren't ready to pull the trigger on this, then waiting is always best with home automation. It changes a lot, and is still in an early adopter state.

Generally, reception is excellent with Z-Wave products, low power, and the mesh network has excellent penetration and coverage (So, if you have a switch on each level, in general you are good, no need for additional SmartThings hubs or anything). But my personal advice is, buy switches (These are my personal favorites, Linear now GoControl)
Stay away from GE, they just re-designed their Z-Wave products, and I haven't tried them since, but previously they were, not very good.

The Smart Home / Home Automation rabbit hole runs deep.
I'm not a believer in the "Smart Light Bulb". I think smart lightbulbs are an expensive bandaid for smart homes, and are NOT a long term solution. Switches work whether your internet is working or not, and there is zero lag between pressing a Z-Wave switch and the light turning on (where, there can be a small lag ... like, a few mili-seconds up to 3 seconds lag when you use your phone or Google Home). Smart Lightbulbs, I've experienced everything from total lag (i.e. not working, needs a reset) to "normal" lag of 1-2 seconds. Kind of annoying.

But, obviously, if you are a renter or move often? Smart Bulbs may be your best option :)
Good luck. *Hands over the red pill*

It's clear plastic instead of the usual white plastic. Similar to below:
Z-Wave Switch https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00E1OVFAK/