Reddit mentions of HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD

I've had PSUs fail but never seen smoke from them. The room if not house has filled with a "burnt electrical" smell when it happens.

You can get testers like this to see if the PSU if working. You do say "server", so if you do want to get a tester, make sure you have a supported PSU in the server.

Depending on what type of PSU you use and you skill level, that $15 could cover the better part of a new PSU that you could just get and try. If you do or plan to do system builds, etc a tester would be good to have on hand.

• When I test a ground pin against any other pin, all I get is either 0V or 5V...is this normal
  
  Likely no however the power supply isn't powered. still however an audible pop from a power supply often means blown fuse or blown capacitor.
  
  
• is there a better way to test the power supply?
  
  Buy an atx power supply tester from amazon or your local pc hardware provider. Another option is any pc repair shop worth their weight in salt should have an atx power supply tester. Take your power supply to one of your unable to locate your own atx power supply tester.
  
  The cost to buy your power supply tester is generally very inexpensive however.
  
  If you need a reliable replacment an evga G3 gold efficiency unit is among the best offerings currently available for power supplies having a seven year warranty and near perfect reviews from jonnyguru.
  
  The 650 watt evga G3 gold unit is $80 from amazon.

1. Check the power switch on the back of the PSU
   
2. Unplug the PC, press the power button a few times to discharge any capacitors and then plug back in
   
3. Plug directly into the wall, no power strip or regulator
   
4. Motherboard battery wouldn't prevent it from powering on, it would just cause your clock and BIOS settings to be reset
   
5. Open the PC and remove the RAM modules. Press power button a few times, then put RAM modules back
   
6. You can get the PSU tested at most computer places, they use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G
   
7. If the PSU fails, replace it, it's not too expensive. If it passes, it's probably something with the motherboard :(

Have you checked the warranty?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-DELL-Inspiron-3647-motherboard-DIH81R-H81-CN-02YRK5-2YRK5-100-tested/32495456807.html

You could test the power supply with a tool like this.

https://amzn.com/B005UZHB6G

I believe without looking at the schematics for that board, its very likely to be the south bridge that burned in your picture.

1. measure from the beginning of the pci expansion slot, where the covers of the case are near the back of it.
   
   
2. the stock cooler has some thermal pads, so you won't need additional thermal paste. you aren't going to be overclocking with that CPU so the stock cooler is fine.
   
   
3. you would most likely have to contact the manufacturer.
   
   
4. a really good investment is a power supply tester as you can accurately test power supplies to see if they are bad or on the verge of going out.

I recommend grabbing one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ for $15. I understand you may not want to buy anything extra, but I figure that a $15 tester is better than potentially frying a new GPU.

You could buy a PSU tester. They aren't that expensive.

Just make sure you get one that can test pcie power.

Definitely sounds like a power supply issue to me. I like to have a PSU tester on hand because in my experience, the PSU is the source of a lot of issues in systems, with the motherboard being the least common source of issues. Here's a cheap but effective PSU tester on Amazon that you can easily use to check the voltages of your PSU before you make any big purchases like buying new memory.

Had the same problem,it was my rosewill green 600W PSU. You need to test that power supply with either a PSU tester like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_n9BnzbJWS4NY7 or a DVOM like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_a-BnzbAV7N36P

Mmm you can borrow one from a friend or a family member. From what I know there is no other way to test the PSU (or buy one of these) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_44GwCb63PZVZJ

This seems to be a complex issue that we may not fully solve. We will help all we can, but this may need to be handed to a computer store.

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Are you still having driver problems?

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Did you format the drive after the unsuccessful Windows install? The 0xc0000428 one can be caused by installing new Windows on top of old Windows, making BOOTMGR freak out.

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I'd order something like this to test for PSU issues, maybe the voltages are off. Make sure that they are within + or - 0.5V.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G

This is a psu tester which I should have used but did not realize it was the psu. Follow the guidelines online.

Thanks for the response.

I have a PSU tester on the way and should be able to test that soon. I've never used a PSU tester so not quite sure how I will be able to know if the PSU is bad, but hopefully it will have some instructions for that.

The tester I got is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UZHB6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's this one. I also got this tester, and it didn't show any errors with either of our power supplies.

This one here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UZHB6G/

As other mentioned, the PSU is a definite candidate. If you don't have a way of testing with another psu, or with the current psu in another computer, consider a power supply tester: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UZHB6G/

Ok. Gotta start testing components then. The easiest thing to do would be to use a power supply tester like this.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI-E/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503536596&sr=8-3&keywords=power+supply+tester

Obviously you may have to order that.

You can also use a multimeter to test each individual rail, 5V, 3.3V, 12v, so on. There are guides online for this. The power supply tester you just plug the psu cables into though.

There's also the paper clip test. Look it up. On the 24pin connector you bridge the green and a black wire across a paperclip. Not something I REALLY recommend but it's a common life hack.

However if you're not getting anything from the psu when plugged into motherboard the paper clip method is probably a moot point.

Moving on. The power supply test will tell you what's up or isn't up with the psu. If you know anyone with another pc or spare psu you could try their psu.

^ he is right you can at least test that it is still able to power on using the paper clip test. If you actually want to test that the rails (each seperate set of wires coming out of the PSU) are not only functioning, but actually putting out the correct voltage, you need a PSU tester. A cheap but functional one with an LED readout of voltages will cost you about 15 USD.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI-E/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502200742&sr=8-2&keywords=PSU+tester

You would need to use something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G

Or you'd need a new/spare power supply to test with. If the problem still happens with a new PSU, then the motherboard is at fault. If the problem goes away, then the original PSU is at fault.

It's tricky and gets expensive sending things back for repair a ton. I would try picking up a cheap PSU tester from Amazon and make sure the PSU is putting out the correct power. You've ruled out the RAM and the manufacturer the MOBO. The graphics cards are confirmed to function. It comes down to the power supply, I think. A VGA light comes on when a graphics card is not booting up and connecting to the MOBO. If a PSU is failing, it may not be providing the correct power to it, halting boot.

There are instructions here with a video.

EDIT: Or, you could get one of these instead of a multi meter.

The most reliable way is to use a PSU tester or a voltage meter.

Sounds like a mobo or PSU problem to me. You can get a PSU tester like this one or use a spare psu to test that. Using those methods, the PSU will be easy to rule out if it's the problem or not.

If it isn't the PSU I would remove everything but the CPU and RAM from the mobo and turn it on. See if you can make it to post. If you do, add one component at a time and try to make it to POST. For instance, plug in your SSD and if it works, then try your GPU, ect. Sometimes a bad component will cause the mobo to do strange things.

One other thing you could check is making sure you have your CPU and RAM seated correctly, and making sure your CPU power cables are plugged in properly.

If you can't make get it to POST with just CPU and RAM and you're sure they're installed correctly, it is very likely a mobo problem.

Best of luck- troubleshooting can be a painful process.

Oh i get it wow. Interesting situation. I would translate my petition on Google translate the print it out and give it with the psu.

Also there is a cheap psu tester. Maybe they have it.

HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Qz1CbSEJDJ20

The green cable used in jump starting the PSU is the "power on" pin, a very low power cable, which crosses to the ground. There is no dangerous load between these two pins.

However, if this is something you are commonly finding yourself doing, I'd recommend a PSU tester, like this one

Thank you! I was thinking either that one or this one. HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QkGLBbBHYYW8N. Would you suggest testing the psu before I put in the new card? Or since it will be under warranty go ahead and try it.

HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TwS3AbQAPS97Q

HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F4uWAbXVAFV87

Testers are pretty cheap. Also if your old one didn't burn up odds are you're pretty safe

However 5 years is generally the end of a power supply warranty. It may be time for replacement.

they have psu testers you could try. Its only 13 bucks and it will tell you if your psu is working or not for sure. I actually bought one like 10 years ago and never used it my psu's have been working fine and they are quite old as well.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI-E/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474307674&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+tester

The one I have isnt this nice there is no screen but it should work. They might have one at a computer store near your house if you cant wait for amazon.

Advise listed in order of what should be done. Let me know the results.:

• Get a Power Supply Tester with an actual digital readout and test. If your PSU is under-delivering this could happen. HERE is one that I recommend for convenience and cost. Make sure to test both sets of PCI-E connectors. Also, please provide age of your PSU.
  
  
• Please provide some temperature reports for while you are gaming of your CPU and GPU(s). If you need recommendations for applications for this, let us know.
  
  
• Perform a memory diagnostic. Several exist. You may have bad RAM if everything else is clean. Try to perform these in their own boot environment instead of inside Windows.
  
  
• Reinstall Windows/Install Windows to a second drive/partition and see if a clean install performs better.

That is the Phase LED lights.

The number of lighted LEDs indicates the CPU loading. The higher the CPU loading, the more the number of lighted LEDs. To enable the Phase LED display function, please first enable Dynamic Energy Saver™ 2. Refer to Chapter 4, "Dynamic Energy Saver™ 2," for more details.

Per the manual you need a speaker connector to hear the BIOS POST codes. So you need to get a motherboard speaker connector

https://www.amazon.com/Corporate-Computer-Motherboard-Internal-Speaker/dp/B01527H4W2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motherboard+speaker+4+pin&qid=1564728106&s=gateway&sr=8-3

http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-p55m-ud2_e.pdf Page 26

I doubt your PSU has died but who knows, get a PSU tester to verify.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=PSU+tester&qid=1564728267&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 around $ 20 dollars.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510446757&sr=8-3&keywords=power+supply+tester

You could get one of these and test it. Otherwise if you're cheap there's specific wires that need to be shorted to turn it on. You'll want to do some googling to figure out which ones you need to short however.

You can buy a tester, but to use it you will need to disconnect your PSU from everything.

Kind of sucky to buy one and need it once, but if you build or troubleshoot computers with any regularity it's a good item to keep in your tool kit.

I used to use one of these when I was a NOC tech.

A little +/- is OK, but you should be wary of anything more than 0.2v out of spec.

> Have any other tips to check if the PSU is good?

I would start with a PSU tester TBH. Its the only way to be sure:

https://smile.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509993914&sr=8-3

> Any good 5x3 cages you could recommend

I'm afraid not :( I have all server/enterprise grade gear

You can get a PSU tester for $14.99 on Amazon. Does your motherboard have onboard graphics? What happens if you remove the GPU and turn on the computer?

It sounds pretty dead. The only things you could further test are the paperclip-test (or PSU Tester) and testing the power-outlet itself.