Reddit mentions of MEGUIAR'S DA Microfiber Correction System 5" Starter Kit – Complete Paint Correction Kit – DMCKIT5

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

You can pick up a Dual-Action polisher from Harbor Freight for about $50 with a internet coupon, and this Meguiar's kit comes with all the pads and compounds you need to do a full compound, polish, and wax. It is very newbie-friendly, and there is plenty of youtube videos and podcasts full of advice on how to use it from the actual engineers that developed it. Seriously, if you can't get all the swirls out with this system, it's because wetsanding first is probably needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W

Don't use M101/M105 or anything that aggressive unless you're sure you know what you're doing.

Meg's Microfiber Correction Kit is good. Consider ScratchX for minor correction, and Ultimate Compound for a more effective single stage correction. UC can also be used as a glass polish. M101/M105 will require a second stage of correction/polish like M205 after it.

Don't use autozone towels, the last ones I bought from there were 100% polyesther and can't absorb anything. I have a pile of these useless towels now and they're going to the garbage.

All links provided are Amazon.com links:

Get a towel that's 80% polyesther, 20% polyamide. It will absorb better. Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels. Get a bunch of them. Also a Water Magnet Towel for drying. When drying, you should get the microfiber / water magnet drying towel damp first, it will absorb more water much more easily.

Cheapest and quickest way to remove swirls, my recommendation is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Gold Class wax. This kit has everything you need for $25 including the microfiber towels and foam pads: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS

Expensive but quickest and most effective way, get Meguiar's DA microfiber correction kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W and buy the porter cable polisher. Also I recommend getting the Meguiar's car correction kit I linked above with this. You'll get excellent results.

Separate all your towels. Use dring towels only for drying, wax towels only for waxing, polishing towels only for polishing, and Glass towels (rainX) only for glass.