Oil dot filters and oil washes (gunk wash) are subtle changes to the overall tone of the kit and you're not going to be able to tell the difference between the two really when the kit is done. It doesn't really matter which you do first in my experience, but armor modelers seem to do a wash first and then the oil dot filters. Check out this video filters start at 10 minutes in.
There isn't a rule in what colors you need to use for what base coat. You need to decide what kind of environment has your mobile suit been in and select colors based on that. So for example, if your mobile suit has been fighting in the desert, then you'd want to have a more yellowish-beige-ish tone. Of course, you don't want to go over-board with the modulation, so your white parts will just have a slightly yellowish tone and not look like it's been painted yellow.
Maybe check out this video to get an answer on chipping. But yes, using a slightly lighter version of the base color and then your choice of the bare metal color (can be grey, silver, whatever you want) is a good way to do chipping. When it comes to white, use something contrasting like dark grey or maybe dark brown for a rust look.
You have the right idea going but you might want to use grey or dark grey instead of black. Black can be too contrasting just from an artistic point of view. You'd probably want to color-in the blasted part dark grey, dry brush the silver and add touches of rust here and there. But you also have to consider the state of your mobile suit. If the laser blast has been there for a while, you might not see silver metal, it'll probably be all rusted. And vice versa is true, if your mobile suit just got shot, there probably won't be any rust.
Yes there is a difference between acrylic and lacquer clear coat. Lacquer is generally more durable, it doesn't scratch as easily and you can use either enamels or acrylics on top of it safely, but it is pretty toxic stuff. Acrylics are a lot less toxic but if you paint enamels or lacquers over it, the enamel and lacquer paint will eat through the acrylic coat and can affect whatever work you have done under the varnish. Lacquers can indeed harm plastic, but if you use proper spraying technique (spray past your kit in multiple quick bursts), any solvents that can potentially harm the plastic will dry too quickly to do any damage. I'm not 100% sure what kind of a product the link you have is for, but ideally you'd want to find a good hobby brand spray can clear coat like this (acrylic) or this (lacquer)
Youtube and the wiki are your best friend, you don't need to buy books for those kinds of things, there are plenty of material out there. Checkout channels such as Gunpla Lab, Ravi Pla, JENIC, Zaku Aurelius, Musasino Plamodel, LIKE GUNPLA, (most of these channels speak korean some videos have subtitles, some don't) and non-gunpla channels such as PLASMO, Night Shift, Scale Modelling Channel and see what techniques can you bring over to gunpla. For a lot of the basic stuff and even some advanced techniques, check out Gunpla Lab's tutorial series and Paint Project series. They speak Korean but have professionally translated videos so the subtitles are fantastic.

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