Reddit mentions: The best hardware adhesives & sealers

Alright, I'm back and here to discuss DIY.

So, building your own speakers is a fantastic way to get great bang for your buck. It costs a lot to make speakers as a company. The general estimate is that a pair of $1000 speakers is about $100 in parts, so there's a pretty big markup.

I'll throw out an example. The Buchardt S400 is a good one. It is made out of parts that anyone can buy. They use this $20 tweeter with a waveguilde attached, this $34 passive radiator, and this $71 woofer. So, they come out to about $125 per speaker, and $250 for the pair. They most likely get bulk discounts, but we can ignore that. Anyways, you get about $250 worth of parts in $1800 speakers.

That all being said, let's look at your options here.

C-Notes are basically the go-to beginner DIY speaker. I have a pair, and so do most people that DIY speakers. They're great speakers all around. They just recently came out with the matching center so you can make the full surround system. The problem with these is that they might not be enough. You mentioned that you've got 3 rows of seating, and these might not get loud enough to fill that size of a room. To solve that, you could use the center channel for L/R as well. That would give you the volume you need.

My next recommendation, and probably what I would do, is all speakers designed by Paul Carmody. Here is his website if you want to look around. The Amiga Towers would give you the volume you need in the front. They have a 7" woofer that will get to good volumes without distortion. For the center, a single Overnight Sensation MTM would do the trick. I haven't heard the Amigas unfortunately, but they're supposed to have the same sound signature as the Overnight Sensation series, so this would be a good match. For the surround speakers, Overnight Sensations would work very well. These are some of my favorite speakers at any price point. They're what I have on my desk when I'm not reviewing other stuff. I absolutely love them. Anyways, if those Amigas sound the same, and they're supposed to, you'll have an awesome system here. This is what the Amigas say on the website: "Basically, if you like the Overnight Sensations, then you'll like the Amigas. The tonal balance is similar with slightly relaxed voicing to allow for long listening sessions without fatigue. However, the quality of the drivers will definitely highlight finer details in any recording." So they should sound the same, but possibly better. I guess you'll find out if you do it haha.

One more thing, you can just get 7 of the same speaker and put them all around the room. Samba kit. Hitmaker kit. And Classix kit. Feel free to look at those and see if you like any of them for some reason. Those would all be generally in your price range and should work since they've got large drivers and lower distortion.

Oh, and you can build a subwoofer if you want too.

Let's talk about parts. You'll need a pair of binding posts for every pair of speakers you make. I use these ones, but really any of them should work.

You'll need polyfill to fill the speakers.

Screws to screw in the drivers.

Speaker wire, for inside of the speakers as well as to wire it all up when you're done. Since you're spending this much on the setup, banana plugs to plug in the wires might make you feel better. You won't need them, but it is definitely much easier to use them.

Alright, so that is really all of the stuff that you'll need inside the speakers. Now we can talk about the building stuff.

Clamps. You'll be gluing the speakers together, and need to hold them in place while the glue dries. Speaking of, wood glue.

You'll need a soldering iron for soldering everything together inside. That one comes with solder as well, as far as I can tell.

However, you want to finish the speakers would be last. Spray paint, vinyl wrap, whatever you want really. You could even get paint and a roller and paint them like that. You'll most likely want to sand and prime them first.

I think that's everything. If for some reason I forgot something, I'll let you know. Better yet, u/JohnBooty, if you have time to take a look at this, am I forgetting anything?

Glubot - it looks funny to a non woodworker, but it is an amazing thing to have around the shop. It makes glue ups about 100 times more enjoyable. Maybe get some silicone brushes to go with it.

Magnifying Lamp - a great addition to any shop. Be sure to get one with a long arm like this one so he can mount it behind his bench and still be able to use it.

Incra Rulers - these are the best damn rulers you'll ever use. The slots make consistent marks that are very reliable. A 12 inch T ruler would be best, but this one is also cool.

Wool Socks - if you live in a cold climate and his shop isn't heated, this would be an awesome gift. I got these socks specifically and they are awesome. Me feet never overheat, but they keep me very warm and are very comfortable. This is a damn good deal actually... I might order these now.

Model by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the resultsModel by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the results

Edit: thought I'd give a more complete outline of the process since people seem to be interested:

Printing
As stated above, this model was printed on my Ender 3. I actually have two Ender 3's, but I stuck mostly to using one due to a lack of filament. The whole thing took about 1 and 1/4 rolls of filament (in my case about 1.25kg). I printed in black Hatchbox PLA using Cura 4.3's new creawesome settings with variable layer height. Most of the files were printed with supports, which I actually found difficult to deal with (as always) and I ended up having to use a brim on every print to make sure some of the larger support towers didn't fall over. My first step was calibrating my printers. I made an iron Man helmet a couple months back and it didn't fit together quite right, so I wanted to make sure that I had my printers properly prepared this time. The model itself was scaled to 94.4% of its original size although in hindsight I should have given more clearance for my big head because Its almost impossible to put on and take off. I don't have an exact figure for the total print time, but it was probably close to 120 hours, most of which were overnight. The hardest part was keeping my bed leveled throughout the whole project. I got to a point where I leveled it before every print, which I know is a good practice, but it's still annoying to have to do without any sort of ABL.

Sanding/Assembly
I started sanding the individual parts as bare plastic with 80 grit sandpaper, then moved up to 100 grit, and then got bored and jumped to 400 grit. All in all I could have used to do a little more sanding because the layer lines are still visible in some places, but it is what it is. After sanding to this point, I assembled the whole thing except the eye pieces using cyanoacrylate. This didn't actually take that long because cyanoacrylate sets pretty quick, but it was still quite a process making sure everything lined up correctly. After it was assembled, I filled in any unwanted seams with wood filler and sanded them down with the same process I used on the rest of the model. After I was happy, I wet sanded the whole thing with 1000 grit sandpaper to give it a super smooth finish. I then applied a few coats of filler primer and wet sanded again with the same grit sandpaper as before. The lenses of the helmet were cut from a piece of transparent red cast acrylic I found on Amazon. It came with a paper backing on both sides to protect it, so I used that to draw the circles I wanted to cut as well as to draw the grid pattern with pencil before I made anything final. I probably could have made the grid better by using geometry or something but I didn't feel like it so I used a ruler and eyeballed the rest. I drew it on the paper in pencil first, and then went back (still using the ruler) and went over my lines with a hobby knife.

Painting
I started painting with a coat of the base gray color. Once I was happy with the finish, I masked basically the whole helmet to paint the gold parts, which was a pain, but I think it would have been more difficult to mask the recessed areas had I chosen to do the gold first. I still had the eyepieces separate and hadn't yet installed the lenses. The bright silver color was done by hand because I figure that would be easier than more masking, especially with the details and tubing. After I was happy with my base paint job, I went back with the silver and did some dry brushing on edges and corners to make it look a little worn.

Electronics
The electronics were by far the easiest part of this project, although there are thing I would change if I were to do this project again. The whole thing is really as simple as a red LED strip hooked up to a 9v battery. The LED strips I used are linked below, although I would recommend not using them for this purpose. They've got a water proof coating across the LED side of the strip that covers all of the contact points so it's pretty much impossible to connect to a strip you've cut. I had to use the LED strip from the inside out and make it one continuous strip across both eyes. The battery holder I got had a switch on it, so that's convenient. After I had it all hooked up, I installed the lenses into the eyepieces, the eyepieces into the helmet and then stuck the electronics in with some cyanoacrylate just to be sure it wouldn't fall out, the battery is held in the front of the mask by some masking tape (I know, not the most glorious solution)

Links
Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXB5M5K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Metallic Gray Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00681T1UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dDNTDb3JRFXTB
Gold Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6RA8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3DNTDbKYMM9VC
Silver Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GJDUN0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_YHNTDbWPQ9P83
Wood Filler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001733MIG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red Acrylic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FLYIYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red LED strip (again, I recommend a different option): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRMPBQQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Battery Holder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQ5RT7Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps!

24. Wall Acoustic Panels: These are useful for reducing high frequency sounds from echoing around the room. Mostly of benefit to people hearing you over microphone, such as streamers. You're unlikely to notice while gaming, especially if wearing headphones. With that said, manufacturer sold wall foam pads aren't actually so great. This [DIY video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)shows remarkably superior outcomes, plus they're way cheaper than proper acoustic foam panels. Of course, you may want to pretty them up, such as with some cheap [satin fabric](https://www.amazon.com/60-inches-Wide-Charmeuse-Costumes/dp/B07BP9XCDF/).
    
    
25. Room Sound Proofing/Deadening: Many confuse sound proofing and deadening, which is largely the fault of retailers switching between the terms and people buying products designed to do things they didn't think it would (e.g. "sound proofing curtains" is marketing bogus. There's no such thing. They are typically good for "deadening", however)! "Deadening" is for high frequency sounds, which acoustic panels (those black triangles/squares you often see on the walls of streamers) work great. Although you can accomplish far better results, for much less money, with a [simple and cheap DIY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)\- both of which are safe to home owners (no nails required). This should be beyond your needs for basic streaming or helping people hear you over microphone in-game. If you're getting way more specialized than this however, it's beyond my ability to cover, but you should start with videos likes [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYt10zrclQ&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=18)to learn more. However, for low frequency (bass) sounds, this won't help, whatsoever. What you need is "proofing". This requires heavy, dense materials (e.g. fiberglass, brick, cement, glass, wood - all should be solid \[not hollow\]). It also helps to create layers (e.g. imagine a room within a room or how double-pane and triple-pane windows have layers), such that you have pockets of air. And, for both sound proofing and deadening, but especially for proofing, you need to remove air gaps. Air gaps can be common in a home (under/around door/windows, through ventilation or A/C system, fireplace, power outlets, etc). For doors and windows, acoustic sealent (e.g. [Green Glue Sealant](https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/) \[also get a [cheap smooth rod style caulk gun](https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-3985-Half-Barrel-Caulk/dp/B0013YKMW8/)\]) and weather stripping (e.g. [Frost King Weather Strip Tape](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-White-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516WH/100119011)) will be the cheapest/effective path forward, but for those wanting to renovate, a solid core door and triple (or at least double) pane window should be your first step. For apartment dwellers, like me, you'll probably forego the bigger renovations. Start with the greenglue, then weather stripping, then (for windows) decide if you need to pay out more to fill-in a window. Fill-in, you say? Some create [DIY window inserts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPiNN9Vn3uE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=16), while others purchase the heaviest full-window covers they can find (e.g. [Acoustic Curtain](https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acousticurtain/) \[to help visualize, here's a similar product's [installation video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyJQjWTLAQM)\]). Whichever path you go, if you're able to shine a line through one end and see it out the other, then you need to try again - sorry. **If anyone has a better solution, whose versed in sound"proofing" physics, I'd love to hear about it!** Ultimately, if your walls are loud, you're going to need to do some remodeling, like shown [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATpOgogvxE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=28). And for those trying to make extremely quiet room (e.g. playing instruments in your recording studio), then you'll need to go more in-depth. Here are two very well made descriptive videos: [First](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOIAPBA2pT8&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=7)and [second](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV5RgcJTRSk&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=25)(not English, but animated video is very demonstrative). Also, for more ideas to soundproof doors, see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4uIYIQ3w1s&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=26). You can learn the science behind window sound proofing [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AQWcTLy3Xo&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=30), btw (if you've ever wondered how much better triple vs double vs single pane windows are, this will tell you in no uncertain terms). Also, for electrical boxes (e.g. power outlets), it's safer to use fire code rated "acoustic putty pads" (if you can access them from behind the wall).
    
    
26. Speakers: Most people don't know this, but some people get physically sick from a lot of bass. Sadly, I'm one of them (can't ever go to concerts). Speakers, for this reason, become a big question mark. Some terrific stereo speakers most might want to consider would be the [Klipsch R-41PM](https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-41pm-powered-speakers), however. **If anyone knows some minimal bass 2.0 speakers, I'd be quite grateful!** I'm also strongly considering [making my own speakers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU). Otherwise, I plan to use my monitor's built-in speakers for Netflix / Youtube / non-communicative video games.

The gaps are pretty big, and assuming you don't have very consistent temperature and humidity in the house, they will expand and contract over time. Using wood putty to fill those gaps will work for a while, but will eventually break and fall out. Instead you can use a wood-colored caulk, such as https://smile.amazon.com/Sashco-Conceal-Textured-Caulking-Cartridge/dp/B0082NUIEA/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RT9KETRB0C5RT6E38H3E

For very large gaps, you can use rope (as they did when building old houses): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7focJeab0pM

Your best bet is to insulate from below as well. That will be more effective at keeping your heat/AC inside, though it won't address the visual appearance of those gaps.

Final note: those are beautiful antique floors. Probably original to your house, I would guess they are heart pine from old growth forests. They are probably long boards (10' plus) so this is really an uncommon classic. Take good care of them, and if you ever change your floor, at the very least make sure you sell these to a shop that knows their worth!

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

Needed some more desktop space so I decided to build a new desk (technically a shelf, I know) from a butcher block countertop.

I decided to use an unfinished ash butcher block countertop from Home Depot. 74" x 25" x 1.5"

I sanded it with 220 grit even though it comes out of the packaging with a pretty good finish. I did knock the corners off though.

Finished with 2 coats of Zinsser Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer sanding between coats with 220 grit. Then I wiped on 4 coats of 50/50 minreal spirits and a satin finish oil Polyurethane. Followed by brushing on 2 coats of 100% polyurethane. Wiping on the layers was definitely easier and left a nice surface but because this is used as a desk I switched to straight polyurethane for a heavier/more protective layer.

I added 2 Power grommets using a 3-1/8” hole saw and 2 flexible cord grommets Using a 2-3/8” hole saw on each end as well as 2 power strips screwed to the underside. Before I made any holes I mapped out stud/bracket location on the underside to make sure I wouldn’t have any interferences.

For mounting to the wall, I used heavy duty shelf brackets from Rockler fastened to the studs with Spax Lag Screws and fastened the countertop to the brackets with Spax cabinet screws

I am not sure if I need to put another support in the center of the table or not. Any opinions? I am not concerned with the weight necessarily as the brackets are good for 2,920 lbs per Rockler's website. But i am not sure if it will bow overtime if it's not supported.

​

Edit1: Added a center support Bracket: https://imgur.com/gallery/LGl7UT2

Edit2: Picture of working desk. Would love to wall mount the monitor. https://imgur.com/gallery/QfH6M9a

Edit3: I ended up going with a wireless charger grommet that sits pretty flush with the desk surface.

https://imgur.com/KkMJZEp

https://imgur.com/yjPurX6

Consider sealing the granite with Stonetech's Bulletproof. One of the best sealers I've ever found:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Love your kitchen. It is clean, functional, but not cluttered. Looks like some awesome meals are going to come out of there. Congratulations to you and your family on a job well done.

I don't recall exactly. Like I mentioned most of the 2x4's were leftover that were laying around I had to buy 4 or so to supplement what I had on hand. In addition to that I bought the following tools as I didn't have them before and I was just getting started;

• #4 bench plane $149
  
• Ryoba Japanese Pull Saw $99 This thing is great, I had never used a pull saw before.
  
• Glue (not nearly enough glue so I ended up getting the [gallon](https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Titebond-III-Wood-Glue/dp/B009O3JRBC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493824721&sr=1-2&keywords=titebond+iii+gallon
  ) or so later which I have a lot leftover from
  
• Chisels I've since upgraded to narex bevel edge chisels. The dewalts are fine but as I'm getting into finer work the thick edge makes it hard to work around in tight spaces like dovetails. $30
  
• [Large front vise] (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise) $109
  
• Lots of clamps I don't recall how much I watched for sales and tried to get them when they were on sale.
  
• Lumber ~$30-40 but as I said I had lots of what I needed on hand. I would expect material cost to be closer to $200-300 if you had to get everything.
  
  So roughtly;
  
  
• Tools: $400-500 + clamps
  
• Materials: $40-60 Lumber & glue (most people will spend considerably more here)
  
  The cost included a lot of startup costs for tools for me which will be long lasting. You could save quite a bit of money by buying used but in my local market planes are really hard to come by and hand saws are non-existent.

Our team uses a variety of different types: Gorilla Glue, Titebond, and more. Gorilla Glue is really good, but just be sure that you wipe off the excess or it will expand. Titebond is really reliable but it takes a very long time to dry. Zapagap is pretty pricey but it dries insanely fast and it is really strong.
Here's a link to all of the glues: 1. Gorilla Glue can be found at Home Depot 2. Titebond We put the Titebond in to smaller containers which can be found here 3. Zap a Gap
EDIT: We also use something called InstaSet Accelerator. It should be used only in emergencies along with zapagap.

I'd like it to fit in my current space and those measurements do, they're very close to the existing table that is in this space.

About the glue joint:

If I choose to do biscuits, what's the easiest and best way to do it without owning a biscuit joiner or should one really purchase a biscuit joiner?

If I go with dowels, what's your dowel size that would be used on a 2"x12", assuming your typical 2" label coming out to 1 3/4"?

And I forgot to ask in my original post, Is this wood glue acceptable? Of the multitudes of woodworking videos I've watched on Youtube (wood whisperer, Frank Howarth, etc) they seem to mostly use titebond.

Edit: Also in regards to sanding the edges in preparation for a butt joint, what grits are you supposed to be using and how do you make sure that your sanding doesn't make the edges uneven? I don't have access to a jointer, is that something I should have done to the boards prior?

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I just used these fittings for my build. I tried super glue first. Would not recommend it. It cause the collars to become cloudy when the glue dried. And some cloudyness migrated up the tubing too.

I ended up buying this UV glue from amazon as i couldnt find anybody who carried monsoon's branded UV glue.

http://smile.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

This stuff was perfect. Very strong and is holding well. And it cures clear.

Oak grain filler for cabinets. People use this but there are others available too. The best thing to do is test your process on one or two doors first and see if your system works. Cabinets are all about the prep work. Good luck!

Highly recommend the Mohawk Finisher's Choice clear lacquer. Goes on super nice.

Make sure you let your friend's artwork dries really, really thoroughly and apply a few solid layers of de-waxed shellac over it before the lacquer coat (I like the Bulls-Eye SealCoat stuff). If you don't, you risk the paints interacting badly. It might also be good to lay down a coat of shellac before your friend paints to stop their work soaking into the wood.

I'd suggest letting the art dry for at least 2 weeks. Apply a thin layer of the shellac with a soft brush. Let it dry for a few hours. Apply another coat, but french polish this one (so it's super smooth). Let it dry overnight then apply a third coat (also french polish). Let it dry for 24 hours then gently sand it flat with 320 grit. Then wipe it down with a lightly damp cloth (not with denature alcohol, use water), wait 10 mins, then apply another layer with a french polish technique.

After that's dried for 24 hours, start spraying lacquer! This will mean there's a solid, even layer to lay the lacquer down, and several layers between the lacquer and the art.

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

Interesting idea! I went on a hunt and this is the coolest thing I've found:

• https://www.flickr.com/photos/seehere/434844917/?rb=1
  
  It's done with a process called plastination:
  
  > The water and fat are replaced by certain plastics, yielding specimens that can be touched, do not smell or decay, and even retain most properties of the original sample.
  
  
  They're been doing this since 1970s so I figure there's probably a guide online. Next logical step was a search for "DIY plastination":
  
  
• http://www.vhlab.umn.edu/atlas/methodologies/preservation/plastination.shtml
  
  I do not have any evidence that the same procedure would work on mushroom flesh, other than the flickr link above.
  
  EDIT:
  
  Per the plastination patent by Gunther von Hagens:
  
  >EXAMPLE 3
  
  >A globular cactus having a diameter of approximately 15 cm was partly hollowed out from its root end by means of a curette, and it was then immersed sequentially for three hours each in 50% aqueous acetone, pure acetone, and dichloromethane. Thereafter it was immersed in a solution of a commercial epoxy resin prepolymer stable at low temperature, but curing at elevated temperature. The vat holding the prepolymer and the immersed cactus was stored in a vacuum at 10° C. for eight hours, whereby all volatile solvent was extracted. When drained of excess prepolymer and held in an oven at 40° C. for six hours, the cactus hardened, but otherwise retained its original appearance and color.
  
  Just curious how much a DIY setup would cost so I made a shopping list:
  
  
• vacuum chamber
  
  
• dichloromethane
  
  
• acetone
  
  
• epoxy resin
  
  
• vacuum pump
  
  
• vacuum safe container to act as dry ice acetone trap
  
  
• dry ice

The foam I used was the first that came to mind when I made it but there's probably an alternative. I wanted something that would fill the center so it was more sturdy and that I could cut and shape. It also had to be light since I'm not all that strong.

The foam that I used isn't really all that bad. Just made sure you wear proper protection (mask, goggles, etc) and have a garage or outdoors to work in.

But if you're a bit concerned still, maybe try this? It's an expanding foam in an aerosol can. But you'd have to make sure you have a tarp out since it sticks to a lot. Once it sets, you can cut at it. I'd make a shield shaped casing and spray the foam into it if I were to use it (kinda like spraying it into a bowl... except shaped like the shield). I honestly don't have much experience with it but I've heard good things about it.

I'm not sure what else would work but I hope this helps! :)

Get bondic. I used to use super glue but discovered Bondic. I confirmed with the company its 100% Salt and Freshwater safe once cured. Takes 4 seconds to cure once the UV is blasted on it. The stuff is amazing.

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-24016-Plastic-Starter-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451457479&sr=8-1&keywords=bondic

Depending on the depth of the scratches you can use wood-filler to fill up the holes. If the scratches are mostly superficial, try sanding it out.

Is the door painted or natural? In the former case full restoration will be easier. And yes, /r/woodworking or /r/DIY would probably be better for a question like this.

I have used JB Weld kwickwood with good success for a number of repairs.

The epoxy plus wood shaving is also a great idea. I have done similar things to fill cracks on a smaller scale with superglue

I would assume the radiator kits would be toxic.
Other info would be
Why cant you find a leak in something that is 1/2 inch big.
Needing it to be non toxic would be helpful
What is the pipe to maybe replacement is your best case
Googling "non toxic liquid pipe fixer" came back with this https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG
Good luck

Serious upvote for /u/socaTsocaTsocaT's suggestion to use StoneTech's Bulletproof. It is an awesome sealer. Follow the directions, and it does an excellent job of keeping your granite looking good for many years.

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

I don't really mind as long as its smooth on top. I like the "old" look of the chest anyway so a crack is fine

Should I add another brace further along the crack also, or only brace the "crossbeam"?

And when you say epoxy, just fill it in with something like this?

Thanks

If you're filling holes for aesthetics, you ideally want saw dust mixed with wood glue.

If you want a more structural fill in wood, get something like kwik wood epoxy.

If it's just something that needs to be filled and you care less about aesthetics, any wood filler will work fine.

I don’t know if it’s possible to get this product in time, but it will fill up and repair the damage to the floor. It will not look exactly like the floor, but it will be very strong and it can be sanded and stained to closer match. I’ve used it many times successfully for repairs large and small. With this product and your offer to paint the floor with an oil based product, or stain it to match, you can save yourself and the landlord hundreds of dollars.

https://www.amazon.com/Donald-Durhams-076694000046-4-Pound-Rockhard/dp/B000LNS2LU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474769703&sr=8-4&keywords=dry+wood+putty

This is some of the best you can get. I've heard a ton of great things, and I've never had any issues with it.

Glu bot for the win. Nice job. I like the inlay. https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G

It works really well. I would recommend using like a 220 grit with it though. I usually do a 120 grit sand on a .2 layer model before I do any fill.

It does dry kinda fast though, so I would do a pass or two and leave it alone.

If you keep messing with it as it dries, you will start pulling it up and causing it to clump. Kinda like bondo does when it starts to cure.

Then I use the plastic wood for seams and any imperfections ect.

Sand the whole thing down with 220.

Then do a coat of filler primer sand with 220 repeat till you are happy, then paint.

Okay so It's a pretty labor-intensive process, so be forewarned

I didn't want to just draw the parts by hand because I wanted the shield to be game accurate, so I took this picture and had it printed on a poster at my local staples, I used the largest poster size, so this was about $20. I then cut out the entire shield from the poster to draw the base, and cut out each of the detail pieces to trace.

I cut and sanded everything with a multi-use dremel. The wood that I used was 1/4 inch birch, which is easy to cut and sand. I got a big sheet at home depot, and I ended up only using half. (I might use the other half to make the Master Sword Scabbard later this year) I would recommend using 3/4 inch wood or layering more pieces than I did, because my shield doesn't have anywhere near as much depth as I would like.

So I cut out the smaller shield pieces for layering by tracing the large shield piece, then taking a 2-3 inch block of wood and running it around the inside edge of the first trace. I made sure the three pieces were centered on top of each other before supergluing them together.

I filled spaces on the layered shield with wood bondo, sanded that down as smooth as possible, then filled all the little holes with wood filler, of course you have to sand this too. Then I painted it with this, but you can use a lighter shade if you want a different look. Finally, I covered the whole thing in newspaper except for the little parts where the border shows through (the silver triangles) and I painted those silver.

For the border I cut the border out of the poster and traced it on the birch, cut it out with a dremel, then cut it into sections and sanded it down. I laid it down on top of shield base (after I had filled it in with the bondo) and filled the gaps between the border parts with bondo. What this does is reconnect the border pieces in a curved manner that perfectly fits on the base. When the bondo dries, add more bondo on the reverse side of the border to strengthen the connection. Then you can sand it down smooth. Spray paint that shit silver and you're good.

For the triforce, pointy decals, and bolts for the border, I cut them out of the poster, traced them onto particle board, cut them out and sanded them to look 3-dimensional. I painted them, and that's that.

Attach all the pieces together using wood caulk. The last step is adding Hylia's Crest, which was frustrating to figure out at first. What I ended up doing was cutting out the details from the poster, tracing them onto this and cutting them out. These decals were a little too pink for me, so I painted them with this glossy red paint. Finally I peeled off the backing and stuck them on the shield.

To hang it up, I pounded some small nails into the back and hung a metal wire between them.

Thanks for your interest. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have!

I've had problems with this too. This year I was going to try putting a little Blue Locktite (Medium Strength) on my hardware. Get medium strength so that it will withstand some stuff, but still can be removed easily with hand tools.

I have a glu-bot for woodworking and I'm thinking of buying one for leather as well -

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G

One of the primary values of the glu-bot for woodworking is that you can use in multiple orientations, but it is also amazing at keeping glue for long periods of time and is fairly cheap.

Great ideas in this thread; I'll put in a plug for the GlueBot - good deal less than $50, but there is a little accessory kit you could add to bring it up closer to $20. Maybe for an occasion other than Valentine's Day.

It is definitely something I didn't know I needed until I used it.

Oh no! lol if the super glue isn’t enough you could use liquid plastic. Its a clear gel that hardens with UV light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uwg7CbBCY51YC

/u/zodd06 mentioned bondic which I really hope I never need but that looks like a future solution.

Edited the post above so that you can see exactly what I was talking about.

Some of the other stuff I didn't mention will be listed below.

Tried this as my marking knife , rather than the narex at first. Didn't sharpen easily for me, so I got the Narex Marking Knife.

Needed a coping saw so I could start doing dovetails easier. This is the one I have chosen. Does the job well enough, nothing to write home about.

The Glu-bot Sure you could use a mustard bottle, but I'll be damned if this little thing wasn't a bit useful. Being able to squeeze glue in any direction is very useful. This is one of those 'you mock the crap out of it until you try it yourself' items. Remember 6 of these gives you 96 oz of glue, but is the same cost as a full gallon and the cost of the gluebot together.

For sharpening: use one of these. Yes, freehand sharpening is fairly easy and quick. But at first using training wheels is both easy and convenient. It gets you a sharp blade everytime because it takes that pesky human error out of the equation.

After I did a long bit of youtube videos and making my own projects, i ran into this book. It solidified my understanding of a lot of woodworking knowledge. I don't know if it is a beginner type resource, but it definitely helped me out.

Bondic - Liquid Plastic Welder - LED UV Light Activated Bonding Tool - Waterproof And Heat Resistant - Starter Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LyiADbXCCZXJ4
Something along these lines seems like it would work great for on the fly repairs. Im gonna take my fathers advice and just buy one for myself for the future!

Tough decision, because ever single surface that you can find will have it's pros and cons.

Granite will be awesome, if you take the time to seal it with a durable product. Stone is porous, and some of the drinks are acidic. You don't want to stain your new counter top.

I like StoneTech's Bulletproof, myself:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Quart-946L/dp/B00065W8G8

Oh! It's magic. Spray in whatever weird shape you want, let it expand into a shoggothian mass of foam, then carve into shape. Great for oddly shaped props that really need to be lightweight.

I believe I used Kamui's tutorials for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O23TM-z0OXk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDo83M68Kk

And the particular brand I used was this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Filler-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YW0W0/ Had to use two cans for the bow.

"LOCTITE® Blue Threadlocker 242® is an all-purpose, medium strength threadlocker. Ideal for all nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6 mm to 20 mm)."
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FIXQXK?pc_redir=1410063109&robot_redir=1

I would try sanding it down, if there are gouges you can get some Durham's to fill them, it is cheap and hard to screw up. Once that cures sand it all again and paint it. If the grain is raised from the paint sand it again and paint/seal. It is possible to paint a faux wood grain to match the existing but it would be difficult for me to describe the technique. There are probably some youtube videos about it though. For that one I'd start with a base of the lighter brown and then grain with the darker brown, latex paint is easiest for the user...

You might also consider sanding it and spray painting the whole thing a solid color then gluing/decoupaging a coordinating fabric or paper print to the top in a pattern you like.

Ive used this a couple times: Bondic

Its a type of glue that cures using the UV light from an led. They got a few of them at my workplace and they seem pretty useful.

Edit: Just read the description, apparently its not a glue but a plastic that remains liquid till you cure it with UV light and has quite good bonding capabilities. The reviews are hit and miss so maybe it depends a lot on the bonding surfaces.

Don't assume anything is sealed. With most builders every element of the house goes to the lowest bidder. Conduct yourself accordingly!

Do it yourself, it is a very easy DIY task. Take particular care in high stress areas, like kitchen counters and wet areas like shower or tub enclosures.

My counter installer advised using this: http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Stonetech-Professional-BulletProof-1-Quart/dp/B00065W8G8

So I did.

Fill the edges in good with kwik wood epoxy, let it set up good, then re-screw it. Make sure you really push it down and up into the gaps behind where you'll be screwing.

UV Light Glue is perfect for fixing glass. I have used it on 2 bong bowls that I broke at the stem and a steamroller I split in two. One pen will last for a while and they are only 20$

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Edit: My dad owned a window and glass repair shop, we used pens like this all the time to fix small chips in stained glass. It dries clear (it can be lumpy though if you use too much) and will not break from high heat.

I'm a big fan of wax free shellac mixed 1:1 with denatured alcohol. It's idiot proof (that's why I'm a fan). I couldn't find the right type of shellac at the big box stores, so ordered it off Amazon.

shellac

Apply it with an old t-shirt. When you cut it, it's so thin that it dries super fast. Can build up 4 or 5 coats in 30 minutes or so.

Titebond 3 is what you want. It's a little expensive but definitely worth it.

Any thoughts if this will work? The guy at Lowes told me it was my best option

Not sure if its 1 or 2, but I use this stuff:

After letting it set for a few days, I warm it for a few seconds with a blow dryer to make it a little easier to peel in one move.

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Yup. Expanding spray foam. That stuff is awesome. Unsure about brand, but looks like Great Stuff Expanding Spray Foam

I swear by StoneTech's Bulletproof. Best sealer on the market, in my humble opinion:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Yeah, I was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0

It is definitely more expensive than caulk...

I've had success with https://www.amazon.com/21506-Plastic-Wood-Filler-16-Ounce/dp/B000BQYI24/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485477785&sr=8-7&keywords=wood+filler

Nah. You need something to go in the hole and seal it from the inside.

Great Stuff 157906 Insulating Foam Sealant, 12 oz, Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YW0W0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLx2DbHDZKH41

Not sure if you are in the states, but here is a good link for one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0006IUW8G/

For $8 you can't design and print it for less, especially out of a material glue won't stick to.

If there is significant rot you should look into replacing the compromised sections. To plug holes I have found "GREAT STUFF" works pretty well depending on the size of hole. They sell it at nearly any home improvement store and even Amazon

If the problem is only around the screws, your only real solution would be to replace the bad screws. Again, if you don't feel comfortable getting on the roof because of structural problems it may be time to replace the rotted sections.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Here's a (supposedly) better one on Amazon.

Would something like this work as well?

I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them

• FastCap Glue Bottle Dispenses from the bottom. Precise and convenient control
  
• [Sanding Disc Pad] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XW7MZVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Means not having to buy sanding paper of different sizes
  Silicone Glue Brushes Are completely reuseable
  Digital caliper Since grabbing this I have used it countless times when making cuts to match
  
• Clamps, clamps, clamps
  
• Also please don't forget PPE :)
  
  Edit: Apparently I can't bullet point :(

If I use stain, I'd usually give it a thin coat of shellac before I start poly. If it's an oil based stain, it can get swirled around a bit from the poly (whatever solvent you use). A coat of shellac seals it in, and the poly has no problem adhering to it. A 1-2 lb cut of clear, dewaxed shellac works great. If you don't want to mix your own, this is one you can buy. You can wipe on the shellac. It dries quickly; 30 min. or so. Give a light sanding to knock off any nibs (400 grit), clean off the dust, and poly as usual.

Another fun option, the makers of self watering planter suggest wood glue

Link 1: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:903411

Glue itself: https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1414-Titebond-3-Ultimate/dp/B0002YQ3KA

I was thinking the same thing at first, but I'm giving the OP the benefit of the doubt that he means Gorilla Wood Glue and not the original Gorilla Glue.

Are you able to remedy this situation at all?

Spray Insulation Foam works well.

Are your windows taped up?

Foam strip insulation around your doors and windows?

Bondic! Wish I could get some on my store.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

I'm sorry, wax free Shellac.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525884218&sr=8-3&keywords=dewaxed+shellac

We have had GSD's for the past 20+ years. This is likely our last one. He HATES the nail gun. He isn't very crazy about the garage in general but will sometimes hang out with me or will run in, steal some wood and lay in the driveway making toothpicks.

The Beast:
https://i.imgur.com/2G3YMGh.jpg

I have a Friend/co-worker with a Great Dane and they let her sleep in the bed. I don't know how they do it. He has told me stories of her stretching and pushes him straight off the bed onto the floor.

Yeah, i agree, they should be a bit loose. If you're concerned about them loosening during use, use a drop of thread locking liquid, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-37418-Strength-Threadlocker-6-milliliter/dp/B000FIXQXK

PuterPro

How long since the paint was put on there? If it's had time to cure, give it a cleaning and a light scuffing. Then put a clear polyurethane over it.

If it's, say, an older piece and you want to preserve the "patina", use shellac as a barrier coat, then put the poly over that.

Or you could go buck wild and hose it down if you wanted.

you need something denser to absorb vibration noise, they sell a special glue you put between drywall that absorbs more vibration

edit: found it

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M5E7D0H8T4X22FHQX2PD

Hopefully Amazon ships to your country.

Will these do, 6ML size? https://www.amazon.ca/LOCTITE-37418-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B000FIXQXK

The armor kits are included in the original game purchase?

Aqua Coat Clear Wood Grain Filler

Epoxy putty if you don't particularly care what it looks like and just want an easy strong fix, or you could do a scarf joint or something with the leg to replace the broken section but it's hard to say exactly what might work without a picture.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7099

https://www.amazon.com/Polyfill-Stuffing-Polyester-Pounds-Schonfeld/dp/B0085A87NY

https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-Ultimate-Wood-16-Ounces-1414/dp/B0002YQ3KA

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU3000DSP-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B005EHINAS - 1250 watts RMS into 8 Ohms (bridged) for series voice coils.

Cabinet + driver is $425. Polyfill is under $10 per pound, less if recycling pillows. $11 for the wood glue. $280 for the amplifier, $240 if using Amazon Warehouse deal. Total cost is right around $750, a touch higher if you need to rent some clamps for 24 hours to put it together.

Of course, my whole post is sort of wasteful because I see that the driver is out of stock.

That will be a problem. As others said, best solution is to replace the switch, but that will require opening up the KB, desolder the existing switch, and solder the new one in.

Temporary solution would be needle-nose plier and pull out the stem's remainder, then super-glue the stem back, reinforce with Bondic plastic welder from the outside (a little ring around the break)

This is a weakness of the floating design keyboards... not much protection from lateral forces, eps. in the corners. If you use a carrying case, think about adding some reinforcement in the bottom. Cardboard would do. If you want to go fancy I think Elite keyboards have "Keyboard tent" hard shells for sale.

It is removable, but you might want to consider getting extra plates for your other gear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FIXQXK

This is what I use. It's basically just de-waxed shellac. This stuff is alcohol based and has a dry time of about 10 minutes. I will brush it on with a foam brush, wait till dry and then give it a light rub with 320 just to knock down any high spots or dust.

I use wipe-on poly more often than brush on. I have never used water-based though, so I can't speak to how that works. Regular wipe on poly is essentially polyurethane diluted with mineral spirits to get it to a wipe-able consistency. It goes on much thinner than the brush on stuff, but goes on much more even in my opinion and drys much faster. You can re-coat in 2-3 hours. You will need to apply many more coats when compared to brush on, I find it takes about 3-4 coats of wipe on to equal 1 coat of brush on, but you don't get drips or runs or brush marks in your finish so it's worth it to me.

What do you think if this?

https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Epoxy-Resistant-Resin-Quarts/dp/B00BJORLEE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518473250&sr=8-4&keywords=uv+resistant+resin

For example, I just ordered this because I can't stand the circular shape of this.

You need one of these instead.

Bondic is mental stuff!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bondic-Purpose-Instant-Stronger-Adhesive-Starter/dp/B00QU5M4MG/

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG

I've actually come to use Bondic UV plastic welder 😜

>http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-5006-Titebond-Premium/dp/B0000223UQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1343614206&sr=8-4&keywords=titebond+II

$20/gallon. Not really that much, IMO.

Try https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_K6pSCbWV0EQPN

FastCap Glu-Bot Glue Bottle (16 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IUW8G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4VFevb0V4S2SZ

Not yet. You still need This

I've seen a vid on facebook where a guy repaired a leg with bondic. I bought some but have not used it yet.

End of discussion :p

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YQ3KA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036539&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=titebond+iii&dpPl=1&dpID=41RDbuNSm-L&ref=plSrch

There are larger sizes available but this is a good size for the first one you buy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IUW8G/ref=s9_qpp_gw_p469_i7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1217VWZTFEHZX0Z5Y76W&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

What about blue loctite?

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37418-Strength-Threadlocker-6-milliliter/dp/B000FIXQXK

Hard to strike a balance between "not permanent" and "won't move without you noticing". You may need to wrench the puppy off if you use this, but it shouldn't walk out.

Get some of this stuff - expanding foam - should be able to pick it up at any hardware store. It's basically Styrofoam in a can and has a flexible nozzle - you should be able to squirt it into the holes in the locker, filling it with a foam that will rapidly harden, ruining anything inside and making it very hard to open.

It's more of a joke than it ever was, rap music I mean. Some of the "classic rap" wasn't actually bad, but this new "gangsta rap" crap makes me want to spray Great Stuff in my ears.

A new quiver would not go amiss as my DIY one tends to collapse. Otherwise, I'm always running out of loc-tight and I go through pry-tools like nobody's business.

i would recommend getting a can of this or something similar. Drill a tiny hole in the wall, and empty the bottle in the wall near the pipe, it expands and might give you enough insulation in there to keep it from freezing and without opening the wall up. If the wall is white get some of this and just wipe it over the hole you made, or if its in a not so noticeable place, fuck it and leave it or get some similar looking paint and cover it. This is all a last resort attempt before opening the wall and insulating it yourself, no guarantees this will work at all.