Reddit mentions: The best wood glue

Alright, I'm back and here to discuss DIY.

So, building your own speakers is a fantastic way to get great bang for your buck. It costs a lot to make speakers as a company. The general estimate is that a pair of $1000 speakers is about $100 in parts, so there's a pretty big markup.

I'll throw out an example. The Buchardt S400 is a good one. It is made out of parts that anyone can buy. They use this $20 tweeter with a waveguilde attached, this $34 passive radiator, and this $71 woofer. So, they come out to about $125 per speaker, and $250 for the pair. They most likely get bulk discounts, but we can ignore that. Anyways, you get about $250 worth of parts in $1800 speakers.

That all being said, let's look at your options here.

C-Notes are basically the go-to beginner DIY speaker. I have a pair, and so do most people that DIY speakers. They're great speakers all around. They just recently came out with the matching center so you can make the full surround system. The problem with these is that they might not be enough. You mentioned that you've got 3 rows of seating, and these might not get loud enough to fill that size of a room. To solve that, you could use the center channel for L/R as well. That would give you the volume you need.

My next recommendation, and probably what I would do, is all speakers designed by Paul Carmody. Here is his website if you want to look around. The Amiga Towers would give you the volume you need in the front. They have a 7" woofer that will get to good volumes without distortion. For the center, a single Overnight Sensation MTM would do the trick. I haven't heard the Amigas unfortunately, but they're supposed to have the same sound signature as the Overnight Sensation series, so this would be a good match. For the surround speakers, Overnight Sensations would work very well. These are some of my favorite speakers at any price point. They're what I have on my desk when I'm not reviewing other stuff. I absolutely love them. Anyways, if those Amigas sound the same, and they're supposed to, you'll have an awesome system here. This is what the Amigas say on the website: "Basically, if you like the Overnight Sensations, then you'll like the Amigas. The tonal balance is similar with slightly relaxed voicing to allow for long listening sessions without fatigue. However, the quality of the drivers will definitely highlight finer details in any recording." So they should sound the same, but possibly better. I guess you'll find out if you do it haha.

One more thing, you can just get 7 of the same speaker and put them all around the room. Samba kit. Hitmaker kit. And Classix kit. Feel free to look at those and see if you like any of them for some reason. Those would all be generally in your price range and should work since they've got large drivers and lower distortion.

Oh, and you can build a subwoofer if you want too.

Let's talk about parts. You'll need a pair of binding posts for every pair of speakers you make. I use these ones, but really any of them should work.

You'll need polyfill to fill the speakers.

Screws to screw in the drivers.

Speaker wire, for inside of the speakers as well as to wire it all up when you're done. Since you're spending this much on the setup, banana plugs to plug in the wires might make you feel better. You won't need them, but it is definitely much easier to use them.

Alright, so that is really all of the stuff that you'll need inside the speakers. Now we can talk about the building stuff.

Clamps. You'll be gluing the speakers together, and need to hold them in place while the glue dries. Speaking of, wood glue.

You'll need a soldering iron for soldering everything together inside. That one comes with solder as well, as far as I can tell.

However, you want to finish the speakers would be last. Spray paint, vinyl wrap, whatever you want really. You could even get paint and a roller and paint them like that. You'll most likely want to sand and prime them first.

I think that's everything. If for some reason I forgot something, I'll let you know. Better yet, u/JohnBooty, if you have time to take a look at this, am I forgetting anything?

Don’t buy just any wood glue. Use this, or any titebond wood glue really. . Original titebond isn’t water resistant. Titebond II & III both are - up to you.

Both of these glues are actually stronger than the wood itself. However, woodglue does not dry clear, if you’re wanting to minimize the appearance, you usually mix in saw dust from the piece you’re working with to “colors the glue. In your case this really isn’t an option unless you can find a similar piece of wood or remove some from another side.

I would say for now, id wrap some rubber bands or string around the body where it’s cracked to prevent further cracking. Document the issue and contact customer support. If they’re not gonna replace it, then I’d try the glue. If you can’t find similar saw dust then it will be a slightly yellow color. Squirt some out and let it dry on something disposable to see if this is gonna be a deal breaker for you. If you do find some sawdust, mix it in with the glue and apply it with something like a toothpick. Then clamp the piece together and let dry to for 24 hours or whatever he bottle says. Remove any extra glue that squeezes out. You could use string or rubber bands as opposed to a clamp, but I wouldn’t recommend it as any squeeze out would adhere to these and require clean up.

If you don’t have a clamp of appropriate size, I bet a large binder clip would do the job nicely.

Best of luck either way. Sorry about your stem!
If they replace it and don’t want the cracked one back let me know!

I’ve been wanting to experiment with removing some material from one of these with a Dremel and filling it in with epoxy resin for a neat look and I’d love to buy this off of ya! Best of luck again!


Edit: according to titebonds website most of their glues are safe and nontoxic up to 200F. I don’t think that area would get much hotter than that, but I’d like to emphasize think cause I don’t actually know that.

Additionally they do indeed make glue that describe as “colorless” when it dries. I’ve never seen it, so I can’t really comment further on what colorless actually means. It’s actually called titebond translucent so, there’s that. this is a comparison pic of many titebond types after 12 hours of curing.

Hope this helps ya 🙋🏼‍♂️

Glubot - it looks funny to a non woodworker, but it is an amazing thing to have around the shop. It makes glue ups about 100 times more enjoyable. Maybe get some silicone brushes to go with it.

Magnifying Lamp - a great addition to any shop. Be sure to get one with a long arm like this one so he can mount it behind his bench and still be able to use it.

Incra Rulers - these are the best damn rulers you'll ever use. The slots make consistent marks that are very reliable. A 12 inch T ruler would be best, but this one is also cool.

Wool Socks - if you live in a cold climate and his shop isn't heated, this would be an awesome gift. I got these socks specifically and they are awesome. Me feet never overheat, but they keep me very warm and are very comfortable. This is a damn good deal actually... I might order these now.

The gaps are pretty big, and assuming you don't have very consistent temperature and humidity in the house, they will expand and contract over time. Using wood putty to fill those gaps will work for a while, but will eventually break and fall out. Instead you can use a wood-colored caulk, such as https://smile.amazon.com/Sashco-Conceal-Textured-Caulking-Cartridge/dp/B0082NUIEA/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RT9KETRB0C5RT6E38H3E

For very large gaps, you can use rope (as they did when building old houses): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7focJeab0pM

Your best bet is to insulate from below as well. That will be more effective at keeping your heat/AC inside, though it won't address the visual appearance of those gaps.

Final note: those are beautiful antique floors. Probably original to your house, I would guess they are heart pine from old growth forests. They are probably long boards (10' plus) so this is really an uncommon classic. Take good care of them, and if you ever change your floor, at the very least make sure you sell these to a shop that knows their worth!

Howdy - sorry for the slow reply! First off, I apologize for the detail but I have no idea if you know all this already or not. I'm no expert and learned all this as part of building our own house and thousands of hours of research. I figure it's better to overshare than provide too little.

Our walls were not parged. Based on what you have said, I'd think the tapcon-equivalent screws and glue would be the way to go though almost certainly overkill. If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing. In this case, you put glue on the board and spread it with a spreader. You then put the board on the wall and it will lock in place a bit with the glue. Then you drill into the wall through the foam for the screws/anchors. Finally, you just drive the anchors into and it's all locked together - solid and secure and very well insulated. After that, you tape the seams and you now have a tightly insulated basement and a great vapor barrier all in one.

This is the glue we used for the boards we did glue down:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043G3NYC/ref=asc_df_B003YHIAHQ5453396/
It worked very well and wasn't too nasty to work with. We used a spreader to avoid wasting glue. It also ensures you get good adhesion:
https://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-6287-Plastic-Notched-Spreader/dp/B000GARZ9S/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2

Drilling that many holes in concrete is a pain so you need a rotary hammer (at least I'd highly recommend it - useful tool all around as well). I used the 1 1/8th inch one from Harbor Freight but wished I'd picked up the larger one as it can get bits all the way up to 1 /12 diameter or more. Those huge bits are used to put holes in concrete for things like piping. Either way, it's a lot higher quality than I expected and makes short work of each hole:
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=rotary+hammer

We used Simpson anchors as they were a LOT cheaper than tapcons. We got em from a large construction supply house locally:
https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/ttn2_screw/p/titen-2
These need to be driven in along with some large washers. It takes some force so I'd suggest an impact driver using a socket or you'll kill your arms by the third board :)

As an alternative, Hilti and a few other companies make insulation anchors as well - here is a picture of them on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/i/352329215437?chn=ps
These require you to drill the wall and then hammer the fastener in. I didn't use those as I was in a hurry and couldn't get a quick local source of them without costing even more than the concrete anchors I used.

We used pressure treated 2x4 lumber for the fire block - every ten feet horizontally and eight feet vertically. For that reason, it's useful to get the "score board" type XPS foam. It has scoring that makes it trivial to split it in 1/2. That means two full sheets and one half sheet then a 2x4 screwed to the wall. The concrete screws and glue work great for the 2x4 as well.

Finally, you use good tape to seal all the seams to create a proper vapor barrier. This is what we used and it does adhere well to foam:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQFROI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?

Whew, lots of stuff. Again I apologize if you already knew this. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to respond more quickly. Thanks and good luck!

-Mike

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

I've said this a few times when these threads crop up. I'm building a beginner model ship by Constructo, called the Albatross. It's a good starter kit, and has pretty decent instructions in various languages and with pictures. Always read a couple of steps ahead and do some research before you take the plunge as the instructions aren't 100% and some terms don't go between languages well.

I have quite a collection of hobby type tools about after many years as a kid in the hobby, but the kit comes with a decent knife, blades, sanding block, tweezers and pliers. Constructo also do other, smaller, cheaper kits too, but I thought if I'm making a ship, I want a half decent square rigger, since I work on a real one so it's a bit closer to my heart.

Since you're a newbie, let me elaborate on what might make your life a little easier when making the kit.

A few things I would suggest additionally you may need, would be definitely some dress making pins, maybe a vice that's bolted to your desk, just so it's easier to hold, and some decent wood glue. I also use the odd mini cramp. A small razor saw is a good plan too, as it makes chopping wood a little easier than just using the supplied craft knife, especially when the planking is on the model and you can't press down with a knife. I wouldn't bother with using the metal tacks in the kit, use the dress making pins instead, the tacks are shite and leave big holes, they also bend horribly. When you need to bend any wood, soaking it is a good idea, makes it a lot more malleable, there is a lot of resource online to help you with these techniques.

You can view a finished Albatross by /u/Sun_Searcher here.

For the money, I think it's a good one to have a crack at as a starter. I'm after building HMS Surprise, but she's a bit big and advanced for a newbie to contemplate, so when this one is done, perhaps Surprise shall be next, much to my Mrs's consternation.

Here's my last picture, I've gotten a bit further but life seems to be getting in the way at the moment.

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

I have a few laminated and bent wood rings under my belt, including my wedding ring I've been wearing for the past year. From my experience, bentwood is the strongest, but I've never tried this level of lamination.

You mention never having used CA glue before, so I wanted to put this product on your radar: Thin CA Glue

It's thin enough to penetrate the wood w/o giving it an overly-plastic look. The challenge is applying it w/o gluing the ring to your hand. I let it cure then buffed my ring up to 1000-grit sandpaper, and a year of wear-and-tear has not put much of a dent in it's appearance.

Rambling on a bit more, one thing I've heard from commercial wooden ring makers is that long-term durability is difficult to guarantee. People who pay $100+ for a ring expect it to go the distance and would be disappointed with any deterioration in the appearance. This is the reason I believe you see a lot of wood/metal hybrids in the upper $$$ ranges.

With all that said, this ring is awesome, and I will definitely be trying my hand at one in the near-future. Thanks for sharing.

I just assembled this over the weekend. It was a little more work than I thought, so here is what I’d say to do:

Get this hobby knife (or something like it): SE 813PK 16-Piece Hobby Knife Set with Aluminum Collet Chucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBYIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FRGhAb4HDSWWY

The pieces were very difficult to punch out and several big pieces splintered in places (not to the point of structural integrity). After a couple of this (I know I know, I tried to change my technique), I used the flat chisel like piece to begin punching them out. Took a lot more time but it worked. Pressed the chisel down and lightly tapped with the hobby hammer I got from Meeple Reality.

Speaking of which, get this hobby hammer (or something similar, the light weight is important. I got big hands but it is fatiguing swinging the little bigger guys): Cousin Craft and Jewelry Mallet, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001144WTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJHhAbJ83KX36

Once the glue is in, or you got the pieces together, hammer them in. Check for gaps in the joints.

Speaking of which, get this wood glue (or something like it) : Gorilla Wood Glue, 4 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDM9I3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MOGhAbT804887

The first half or so I applied it to every joint. Keep a paper towel handy or something to clean the excess that seeps out.

The last couple of intricate pieces I only glued the outside supports. The intricate pieces inside didn’t require it. I’m pretty sure it’ll hold. If it doesn’t I’ll glue it when it happens.

Ok, I think I got it down. I wrote this over 4 sessions as time permitted quick style, so if something is weird or doesn’t make sense let me know. I have so little DIY experience , so if I can do this, you can do this.

I don't recall exactly. Like I mentioned most of the 2x4's were leftover that were laying around I had to buy 4 or so to supplement what I had on hand. In addition to that I bought the following tools as I didn't have them before and I was just getting started;

• #4 bench plane $149
  
• Ryoba Japanese Pull Saw $99 This thing is great, I had never used a pull saw before.
  
• Glue (not nearly enough glue so I ended up getting the [gallon](https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Titebond-III-Wood-Glue/dp/B009O3JRBC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493824721&sr=1-2&keywords=titebond+iii+gallon
  ) or so later which I have a lot leftover from
  
• Chisels I've since upgraded to narex bevel edge chisels. The dewalts are fine but as I'm getting into finer work the thick edge makes it hard to work around in tight spaces like dovetails. $30
  
• [Large front vise] (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise) $109
  
• Lots of clamps I don't recall how much I watched for sales and tried to get them when they were on sale.
  
• Lumber ~$30-40 but as I said I had lots of what I needed on hand. I would expect material cost to be closer to $200-300 if you had to get everything.
  
  So roughtly;
  
  
• Tools: $400-500 + clamps
  
• Materials: $40-60 Lumber & glue (most people will spend considerably more here)
  
  The cost included a lot of startup costs for tools for me which will be long lasting. You could save quite a bit of money by buying used but in my local market planes are really hard to come by and hand saws are non-existent.

Our team uses a variety of different types: Gorilla Glue, Titebond, and more. Gorilla Glue is really good, but just be sure that you wipe off the excess or it will expand. Titebond is really reliable but it takes a very long time to dry. Zapagap is pretty pricey but it dries insanely fast and it is really strong.
Here's a link to all of the glues: 1. Gorilla Glue can be found at Home Depot 2. Titebond We put the Titebond in to smaller containers which can be found here 3. Zap a Gap
EDIT: We also use something called InstaSet Accelerator. It should be used only in emergencies along with zapagap.

I'd like it to fit in my current space and those measurements do, they're very close to the existing table that is in this space.

About the glue joint:

If I choose to do biscuits, what's the easiest and best way to do it without owning a biscuit joiner or should one really purchase a biscuit joiner?

If I go with dowels, what's your dowel size that would be used on a 2"x12", assuming your typical 2" label coming out to 1 3/4"?

And I forgot to ask in my original post, Is this wood glue acceptable? Of the multitudes of woodworking videos I've watched on Youtube (wood whisperer, Frank Howarth, etc) they seem to mostly use titebond.

Edit: Also in regards to sanding the edges in preparation for a butt joint, what grits are you supposed to be using and how do you make sure that your sanding doesn't make the edges uneven? I don't have access to a jointer, is that something I should have done to the boards prior?

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

Allright, here goes.

What I would do is aim for [something roughly this shape](https://i.imgur.com/gwSfsSJ.jpg]

What I'd do is cut according to this sort of plan and use an anglegrinder with cut-off disc to chop the tang out (marked in red), then use a dremel (Marked in blue) for the fine cuts. I would then round off the shoulder of the blade with a round chainsaw file to remove the risk of stress raisers.

Once there, I'd use a Warding File to file in the little notch step down at the bottom of the tang, from a rough squared-out cut , to become a round circle along its length. That's going to become your Pein, when the whole thing is assembled.
I'd then put that pein part in a flame - ideally a blue gas flame, wrapping the blade in a damp cloth to ensure its not getting hot. you'll ideally want to get that part glowing red-hot. What that'll do is completely blow the temper on that part of the tang, so its no longer hardened at all. that'll let you pein it over later.

Then I'll take two pieces of steel, curved into arcs and I'll clamp them down, and start to drill the centre - that will depend on the blade of course, but what you want in effect is a slot, for your since its from a blade that's probably going to be a () shape, or maybe even a <> shape.

you'll use that warding file to slowly widen the drilling, taking it from two holes side by side into a rectangle, then widening it and shaping it to match the blade cross-section. Once that's done, repeat on the second one, to sit on the other end of the tang. For it, you will probably want to use a small 4-inch square-cut file to get that to fit. You want to use a square so that the pommel end guard doesnt swivel around at all.

that's then topped off with a little pein block which serves a double purpose - it makes it easier to repair if it ever has a problem (just file it off and put a new, smaller block on) and, as that part of the tang was filed round, you just need a drill to make a round hole, instead of a rectangular hole. (also a small pein is easier to do - just clamp in a vise and hammer over like a rivet. Having softened the metal by getting it glowing red earlier, you can probably do this part cold, so no torches needed.)

lastly, I'd then make a two-piece wooden grip, the bread around the tang in a sandwich, in effect, out of beech or similar hardwood (though poplar should do for that, and its easy to carve out the slot for the tang in.

I'd make that a bit thinner than you expect it to be - over-bulky grips are a common mistake - Glue it together, and wrap it in fine cord with hide glue and then I would follow this fantastic tutorial guide from Peter Johnsson to wrap a section of fine vegetable-tanned leather round it, wrap that in cord, and have a beautiful leather hilt at the end.

Yeh, just to summarize real quick:

You could do it yourself but it would look like crap, and would take forever.

But, you could do with asking the contractor some questions ahead of time, like:

• what type of material would you use for the exterior 'wood'. Why?
  
  
• will you remove the window? will you nail it back in or screw it. Why?
  
  
• Do you need to remove the interior trim? why? Do you need to repaint things?
  
  I went to lowes today, and I bought some epoxy wood repair: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E761L-Damaged-Repair-12-Ounce/dp/B000GUDAVA for two other windows that I need to fix. They aren't quite as bad as the one I posted about. But it seems like this is a hell of a lot easier. Maybe it will get another 5 years life out of my windows. And much much easier to apply.
  
  
  
  
  
  

There is a LOT of info in this sub on cutting board finishes / glue. A quick search should return what you're looking for. That being said, I'll give you what I use here:

Glue - Titebond III. It's water proof (not resistant).

Finish - A mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. It needs to be re-applied occasionally, but it's super easy for beginners. Stay away from salad bowl finishes until you've made a few boards and want to try something a little more durable.

Woods - Hard maple and walnut are the easiest, but anything tight grained will work. Stay away from open grain woods (oak, etc.).

Glu bot for the win. Nice job. I like the inlay. https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G

Sounds like a plan. Thanks for taking the time out. Now I just need to source the materials you have described.

Would something like this do? https://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Wood-Weld-Epoxy/dp/B004NB3OMS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480846597&sr=8-7&keywords=jb+weld+2+part+epoxy

or perhaps I get something white so that I don't have to bother with paint etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UniBond-2002387-Repair-Express-Epoxy/dp/B019CXIO1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480846752&sr=8-3&keywords=white+wood+epoxy

Okay so It's a pretty labor-intensive process, so be forewarned

I didn't want to just draw the parts by hand because I wanted the shield to be game accurate, so I took this picture and had it printed on a poster at my local staples, I used the largest poster size, so this was about $20. I then cut out the entire shield from the poster to draw the base, and cut out each of the detail pieces to trace.

I cut and sanded everything with a multi-use dremel. The wood that I used was 1/4 inch birch, which is easy to cut and sand. I got a big sheet at home depot, and I ended up only using half. (I might use the other half to make the Master Sword Scabbard later this year) I would recommend using 3/4 inch wood or layering more pieces than I did, because my shield doesn't have anywhere near as much depth as I would like.

So I cut out the smaller shield pieces for layering by tracing the large shield piece, then taking a 2-3 inch block of wood and running it around the inside edge of the first trace. I made sure the three pieces were centered on top of each other before supergluing them together.

I filled spaces on the layered shield with wood bondo, sanded that down as smooth as possible, then filled all the little holes with wood filler, of course you have to sand this too. Then I painted it with this, but you can use a lighter shade if you want a different look. Finally, I covered the whole thing in newspaper except for the little parts where the border shows through (the silver triangles) and I painted those silver.

For the border I cut the border out of the poster and traced it on the birch, cut it out with a dremel, then cut it into sections and sanded it down. I laid it down on top of shield base (after I had filled it in with the bondo) and filled the gaps between the border parts with bondo. What this does is reconnect the border pieces in a curved manner that perfectly fits on the base. When the bondo dries, add more bondo on the reverse side of the border to strengthen the connection. Then you can sand it down smooth. Spray paint that shit silver and you're good.

For the triforce, pointy decals, and bolts for the border, I cut them out of the poster, traced them onto particle board, cut them out and sanded them to look 3-dimensional. I painted them, and that's that.

Attach all the pieces together using wood caulk. The last step is adding Hylia's Crest, which was frustrating to figure out at first. What I ended up doing was cutting out the details from the poster, tracing them onto this and cutting them out. These decals were a little too pink for me, so I painted them with this glossy red paint. Finally I peeled off the backing and stuck them on the shield.

To hang it up, I pounded some small nails into the back and hung a metal wire between them.

Thanks for your interest. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have!

I have a glu-bot for woodworking and I'm thinking of buying one for leather as well -

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G

One of the primary values of the glu-bot for woodworking is that you can use in multiple orientations, but it is also amazing at keeping glue for long periods of time and is fairly cheap.

Great ideas in this thread; I'll put in a plug for the GlueBot - good deal less than $50, but there is a little accessory kit you could add to bring it up closer to $20. Maybe for an occasion other than Valentine's Day.

It is definitely something I didn't know I needed until I used it.

True, but the result of baking soda plus superglue looks like wet granulated sugar. This looks more like powdered plastic resin glue but I'm not sure on that either.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E7310-Carpenters-Interior-Exterior/dp/B0045PXPH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527550346&sr=8-1&keywords=elmers+wood+glue
The proper glue is 7 dollars and has enough glue to last you indefinitely for your music maint needs.
It is actually cheaper than most super glues.


I don't advise using super glue. My friends have toasted enough necks by their nuts because they super glued their nuts.

Edited the post above so that you can see exactly what I was talking about.

Some of the other stuff I didn't mention will be listed below.

Tried this as my marking knife , rather than the narex at first. Didn't sharpen easily for me, so I got the Narex Marking Knife.

Needed a coping saw so I could start doing dovetails easier. This is the one I have chosen. Does the job well enough, nothing to write home about.

The Glu-bot Sure you could use a mustard bottle, but I'll be damned if this little thing wasn't a bit useful. Being able to squeeze glue in any direction is very useful. This is one of those 'you mock the crap out of it until you try it yourself' items. Remember 6 of these gives you 96 oz of glue, but is the same cost as a full gallon and the cost of the gluebot together.

For sharpening: use one of these. Yes, freehand sharpening is fairly easy and quick. But at first using training wheels is both easy and convenient. It gets you a sharp blade everytime because it takes that pesky human error out of the equation.

After I did a long bit of youtube videos and making my own projects, i ran into this book. It solidified my understanding of a lot of woodworking knowledge. I don't know if it is a beginner type resource, but it definitely helped me out.

For the glue I would use a UF type, like this. Get the glue as far back in the gap as possible using a butter knife or something. Then put some very heavy and even weight on top and let it sit 48 hours. Keep the area as moisture free as possible in the future, and I recommend not using the heated dry in the dishwasher.

If you buy a wood desk from Office Depot, IKEA, or anywhere else, ALWAYS put it together with a squiggled bead of Titebond Wood Glue on the surface of every joint and place a dab of glue into every dowel and screw hole. It will not come apart or wobble. Just be sure to wipe away the excess glue with a wet towel as you tighten the joints.

As an example, a sizable particle board corner desk with built in cabinets on each side that I bought in 2000 at Best Buy is still in use by my Dad and has been through moves from FL > NC > OH > WI (and now three different homes in WI) in the last 18 years and has never come apart.

I have done this for 25+ years and have never had a piece of furniture assembled in this way fail on me.

This is the stuff in case you aren't familiar - You can get it at any Lowes/Home Depot locally: https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-5063-Original-Wood-8-Ounces/dp/B0002YWZPW?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002YWZPW

Oh no these things are stout. When I built them I used proper wood glue (not just dipping the dowels in water) on all the joints, and used a ratchet instead of that dinky hex key it came with. Just don't turn them the wrong orientation when setting them up. The "shelves" should be horizontal; if you turn it sideways by accident and the individual slats are load-bearing, you might have a swaying left-to-right issue.

The only problem I really had was the carpet. My floors aren't completely plumb near the baseboard and the shelves tilted away from the wall. Those things came with anchoring kits (for liability reasons, "hey dummy we gave you a wall anchor") and I thought of using them but instead had a better idea. I took heavy cardboard and some wooden door casing wedges and made a little platform under the shelves to tilt them back.

They're pretty solid, I'm not worried about my kids knocking them over.

Here's a better image of the pieces. https://imgur.com/a/PSuOZRn

Will be trying out this epoxy (smallest I could find on Amazon) https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8251-WoodWeld-Adhesive/dp/B004NB3OMS/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=wood+epoxy&qid=1551207459&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Will also be getting slightly larger set screws (I think that's what the gold pieces are called?) and screws. I was missing one anyway so this was a good kick in the butt to finally give this stool some care.

Thanks so much for the advice everyone!

Depends where you are.
Oplaser is based in the UK and I'm in France.

It took 15 days between my order and package arrival, with only one notification from the the delivery agency (Parcel2Go.com)

Beware that the box arrived unassembled, you have to assemble it yourself, so you have to get some wood glue (like this one : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0001YS16U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a strap to help you fix every part together (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B001W7HYDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

But in the end, the product is really great, worth the investment.


sorry for bad english ...

Titebond 3 is what you want. It's a little expensive but definitely worth it.

Not sure if its 1 or 2, but I use this stuff:

After letting it set for a few days, I warm it for a few seconds with a blow dryer to make it a little easier to peel in one move.

Not sure if you are in the states, but here is a good link for one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0006IUW8G/

For $8 you can't design and print it for less, especially out of a material glue won't stick to.

I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them

• FastCap Glue Bottle Dispenses from the bottom. Precise and convenient control
  
• [Sanding Disc Pad] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XW7MZVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Means not having to buy sanding paper of different sizes
  Silicone Glue Brushes Are completely reuseable
  Digital caliper Since grabbing this I have used it countless times when making cuts to match
  
• Clamps, clamps, clamps
  
• Also please don't forget PPE :)
  
  Edit: Apparently I can't bullet point :(

Another fun option, the makers of self watering planter suggest wood glue

Link 1: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:903411

Glue itself: https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1414-Titebond-3-Ultimate/dp/B0002YQ3KA

I was thinking the same thing at first, but I'm giving the OP the benefit of the doubt that he means Gorilla Wood Glue and not the original Gorilla Glue.

Hopefully Amazon ships to your country.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7099

https://www.amazon.com/Polyfill-Stuffing-Polyester-Pounds-Schonfeld/dp/B0085A87NY

https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-Ultimate-Wood-16-Ounces-1414/dp/B0002YQ3KA

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU3000DSP-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B005EHINAS - 1250 watts RMS into 8 Ohms (bridged) for series voice coils.

Cabinet + driver is $425. Polyfill is under $10 per pound, less if recycling pillows. $11 for the wood glue. $280 for the amplifier, $240 if using Amazon Warehouse deal. Total cost is right around $750, a touch higher if you need to rent some clamps for 24 hours to put it together.

Of course, my whole post is sort of wasteful because I see that the driver is out of stock.

Here is the amazon link for that glue http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045PXPH6

Not yet. You still need This

End of discussion :p

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YQ3KA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036539&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=titebond+iii&dpPl=1&dpID=41RDbuNSm-L&ref=plSrch

There are larger sizes available but this is a good size for the first one you buy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IUW8G/ref=s9_qpp_gw_p469_i7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1217VWZTFEHZX0Z5Y76W&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

FastCap Glu-Bot Glue Bottle (16 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IUW8G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4VFevb0V4S2SZ

>http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-5006-Titebond-Premium/dp/B0000223UQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1343614206&sr=8-4&keywords=titebond+II

$20/gallon. Not really that much, IMO.

Add 1/3 of the flour weight of this to your base:

https://www.amazon.com/00203-Weldwood-Plastic-Resin-1-Pound/dp/B001003J16

So if your recipe calls for 3c of flour, use 2c of flour and 1c of this resin powder.

You need one of these instead.

For example, I just ordered this because I can't stand the circular shape of this.

I need wood glue. My kitchen chairs are adorable old antiques but they're just all kinds of broken.

First, you want to avoid softwoods and stick with your basic hardwoods (oak, maple, cherry, ash, poplar and a few others. No rainforest hardwoods, as they tend not to have happy reactions in many people).

As long as the cherry does not touch the glue, there should be no problem. Remember that a very thin bead of glue is more than adequate for almost all purposes. I would recommend A simple wood glue like http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-5063-Titebond-Original/dp/B0002YWZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1367548726&sr=1-1&keywords=titebond+original+wood+glue

Most say a mineral oil rub is all you should use, but others may disagree with me. DO NOT put anything on the inside of the bowl or anywhere else that may come in contact with embers or flame.