(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best wood glue

You want Tightbond 2 specifically OP for best results. Make sure to embed a paper tab too for lifting off the glue once dry. A 1" x 2" piece of card paper (from a food box for instance) would be great.

You'll need a warmer for it, because it's solid at room temperature! And be warned—it SMELLS. It's literally melted animal parts, and it smells like it.

ETA: We had this one at the shop where I was learning violin making, but it's pretty expensive to invest in on a whim. I've also read about people using crock pots; YMMV. You want to use a glue like this, not the weird shit that comes in a bottle pre-made. And seriously, it stinks. Don't do it in a room that you want to smell right ever again.

I have four main glues I use regularly. CA/Cyanoacrylate/superglue is sort of a fifth, but I use it more as a filler and not a glue, as it weakens and gets brittle with age.
Same as SprikleSparkles, I use ModelMasters Liquid Cement with precision applicator but mainly for small pieces with a single attach point like landing gear or control sticks. I like Tamiya thin cement for most long seams, or parts that are a single attach point with access from some unseen area (bottom of a cockpit tub, etc.) I also use Ambroid Pro Weld for really big, long seams such as ship hulls, just because I have a bottle still and it works well for me. I also have one of those that I've added plastic to to use as a filler. For photo-etch I use Gator Grip Acrylic glue ( Alternate link ) as it doesn't get brittle the same way CA glue does.

Easy fix.
Buy some wood glue and grab some flat wood toothpicks.
Add glue to the existing hole and toothpicks, insert toothpicks into the hole and let dry.
Note, you should only need a few toothpicks, you aren’t filling the hole, you’re just making it smaller.
Once dry, break off the toothpicks flush with the hole and install sling stud.

I’ve fixed all kinds of stripped wood holes like this and never had one fail.

I've noticed it doesn't take long for humidity to move the thickness of plywood around. Probably the glue absorbing moisture rather than the wood.

For your glue ups... Do you have a glu-bot? https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Babe-Bot-Ounce-Glue-Bottle/dp/B0006IUW9U

Cheap and easy to get a good controlled squeeze and it sucks back into the bottle for less of a mess. I like mine. Maybe it will help you.

>What kind of caulking should I get? Can it be purchased from a regular hardware store like Lowe’s?

Not the metal roofing guy, but researched this a bunch when working on my roof.,

Buy something for metal roofs. Some caulks turn acidic when they dry (as a normal part of their drying process), this is fine on wood and vinyl but can lead to rust on some metal roofing products. A real answer to the question requires you to know if your metal roof is Kynar coated or not. This article goes into great detail and concludes with:

> On most metal roofs: urethane or oxime-cure silicone (non-corrosive) and polyether sealants work well.

>On Kynar (polyvinylidine flouride)-coated metal: oxime-cure silicone works well. Urethane does not bond at all to Kynar.

You'll never get an answer to what products are oxime-cure silicone at Lowes. You won't even find it on the label (perhaps on the MSDS if you know what you are looking for). So, just order something off the internet that says for all metal roofs. I've used Titebond 61001 and had no problems (although there are some bad reviews on Amazon). I tried to order MetalLink which looks better, but couldn't find a source for less than a case.

EDIT: Update link to the white I've used before.

No no no. Don't use wood glue! If the guitar is worth anything to you use hide glue. First, remove the glue using hot steam, or a rag damp with 160 degree water (this will take a long time and you will have to make sure it is very dry afterwards [48 hours drying at least]). Heat the glue with the right proportion of water (start with a dryer mixture and add until a "goopy" consistancy) up to 145-150 degrees Fahrenheit in a disposable jar and use a paint brush to apply a thin layer underneath the bridge. Then, while the glue is still hot, affix it exactly where it was prior. Use a band clamp and a light weight, or more suitable clamp and let it sit for 24 hours. This should be sufficient time for the glue to set. Then, re-string with nylon strings and play. If you set the bridge right it should be good as new. It might even be better. So yes, you can repair the guitar yourself, but it is still reccomended to go to a luthier. Why don't you head over to the subreddit?

I'd say it's Black Forest (Bavarian) 1850-1910. They carved a huge variety of novelty furniture, sculptures and everyday items which were very popular during that period.

The variations in design were many and varied.


As far as restoration is concerned, be sure to use traditional hide glue. It's reversible and will allow a certain degree of flex in the joins. Modern glues destroy old furniture.


To refinish, use shellac and a simple bee's wax polish.

Edit: If it originally had a dark/almost black patina, Japanning the oak is quite simple: http://www.wikihow.com/Age-Wood-With-Vinegar-and-Steel-Wool

Once japanned, finish with shellac and bee's wax.

Once you have removed everything bad, I would use a wood hardener like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Products-164440-PC-Petrifier-Water-Based-Hardener/dp/B00081FW1I/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=Rot+fix&qid=1566419161&s=gateway&sr=8-12

And I typically use Bondo because it is cheaper, but an expoxy is better (this is just really expensive)

https://www.amazon.com/Products-PC-Woody-Repair-Epoxy-Two-Part/dp/B000H5O7Y8/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Rot+fix&qid=1566419309&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Then you can paint it. More here:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Polyester_Versus_Epoxy_Wood_Fillers.html

I pour this stuff over my records and it works really well. Note that it MUST be a specific type of wood glue, some will destroy records. I use Titebond II. Amazon is expensive, you should buy it cheaper elsewhere.

Cleaning a lot of records would take a considerable amount of time, but if you do it carefully it works really well. Here's a video of someone explaining it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gyvipBs6Vs

I've used some sort of wood sealant thing. FDA approved is all I remember.

edit: tightbond, https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-1415-Ultimate-32-Ounce-Bottle/dp/B0002YQ3KU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527489719&sr=8-1&keywords=fda+approved+wood+glue

Latex paint would certainly help, but I know Matt Cremona uses Anchorseal

Totally smokable. For the future, though, dont put tape over it. You can get a jar of cigar glue on Amazon for $10USD and you just use the brush to glue it back together like in the picture. It's made of the same stuff they use to glue it together at the factory, so it's safe to smoke.

this Elmers gule all max. I found it at Ace Hardware and that combined with the foil tape was super smooth. its a bit expensive but i get it wholesale at my job it was around 4 bucks but its regularly 8

Wood glue is your friend.

Here is a way to hide the hardware.

In either case, you would be better off pre-drilling pilot holes.

Wood glue works well too.

There are several types of hide glue that will give you extended "open time" (the length of time before the glue sets) that you need. The easiest to use is the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, which is already mixed and liquified. Ground Hide Glue must be heated in a double boiler or glue pot to liquify and use it. Some folks around here (/u/joelav for example) prefer it to most any other glue types. Either one will give you extended "open time" and the ability to steam the joints apart if things go awry.

I did the same thing and used Weldbond to glue it back. and it works fine on Hatchbox wood PLA Here

And order the darker wood glue as it would be less visible than the regular yellow. dark titebond

Weldbond. https://www.amazon.com/Weldbond-8-50420-Multi-Purpose-Adhesive-Glue/dp/B00RM70OGE

this is the brand I used:

https://smile.amazon.com/FiberFix-857101004372-Extreme-Super-Glue/product-reviews/B01LWJHCHM

You can probably get it from any autopart store. I got it from Oreilly.

You may or may not have to go that route but this stuff will do the job if you decide to use it.

This stuff is nothing more than thin CA glue.

This: https://www.amazon.com/PerfecRepair-Cigar-Repair-Crack-Sealer/dp/B072BD918F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cigar+glue&qid=1569934592&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKFKT27/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_k7IWDbAGRDBEX

It won't be labeled as horse glue, but as animal glue.

You could try PerfecRepair. I use it occasionally to repair damaged sticks. It works very well.

My door was messed up exactly like this, because whoever installed my door physically bent it somehow. I adjusted the strike plate of the lower knob, not the deadbolt, by removing the strike plate, filling it with wood putty, and re-installing the lower knob's plate from scratch in the right spot, once the putty was set. This way it held the door shut even with pressure from the weather stripping.

Then, I removed and reinstalled the deadbolt strike plate and the hole behind it so the dead bolt lined up with this new held-shut position. I used some lipstick to mark the spot on the wall the deadbolt struck when I closed it. Worked like a charm.

If you have one big strike plate for both, I think it should work the same way, so long as your top and bottom locks are spaced out exactly like the plate is. If they're not, maybe you can get two individual plates?

I have next to no DIY skills and this actually wasn't bad to do at all. Just watched some youtube videos and went to town with a chisel & drill. The chiseled area kinda looks like shit but it's on a door frame and people aren't really looking too hard at it :).

edit: this is the epoxy i used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5O7Y8/