Reddit mentions of PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On

Sorry bud, I am going to have to agree with the others here, please find a way to return that.

Regarding replacing the head unit, it's not necessary. You can use a PAC line out convertor to convert the rear speaker outputs into something the amp can accept, and it has a nifty amp turn on circuit that detects signal on the speaker wires and turns your amp on.

Also, what wiring kit do you have already? This is more important than you realize. The lowest I would go is the Scosche amp install kits you can pick up from your local Walmart as their build quality is decent and they're oxygen free copper. If you want to step up a notch I'd go for the NVX brand kits from Sonic Electronix.

Now, onto the sub and amp. The Cruze doesn't have the largest trunk so I would stick to a single high quality sub and, to the chagrin of others here, match it with a decent prefabricated box. You spent $140 on that Dual brand setup so I'll try to keep it around that mark:

• Sub: Pioneer TS-W3003D4 12" sub - $90
  
• Box: Belva 1.5 cubic foot enclosure - $40
  
  For an amp, spending about $100-$120 would get something that powers that sub nicely. Here's one that is compact and will put out the power that's printed on the box (unlike some brands...):
  
  
• Amp: Precision Power iON i650.1
  
  If you don't have at least a 4 gauge oxygen free copper amp install kit then I suggest you return what you have and pick one of these up:
  
  
• NVX 4 gauge OFC amp install kit - $80
  
  I know this seems expensive for cabling, but it includes speaker wire and RCA wires for a complete install, and you do NOT want to use cheap wire as it can burn your car up or cause random electrical oddities with your amp install.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

That doesn’t mean it’s the same as aftermarket equipment. No OEM radios use RCAs.

So that means you’ll need a LOC (line output converter) or of your amp accepts high level inputs you can just run a speaker level signal into the aftermarket amp. Depending on the year of your Jeep switched power may be hard to find as everything is controlled by data in the newer Jeeps. PAC-audio makes a LOC that can supply a signal sensing remote turn on so you don’t have to go hunting for switched power all you have to do is give it constant power and ground and the signal your tapping into.

PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xDhtxb5YA0F2K

>Edit:

LOC. I work with these daily. With good results.

Amp kits selection is near infinite, as long as it's OFC, and has decent quality RCAs, it's fine.


>Edit 2:

Wouldn't be my choices, but they'd suffice. Why not consider JL's amp kit? Price?


>Edit 3:

The Rockford badged kit probably has better wire composition. Has a more versatile fuse holder. And better RCAs. As well as being sold as Rockford, and not Lightning.

I did with my 2012.

I got this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0YASQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and have a single 12" Infinity Reference pushed by an Alpine amp (500 watt @2ohms).
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m500

The best thing about that RCA converter is that it has remote turn on via signal detection, so I didn't have to run a line to the front of the car. It's pretty well the perfect setup for a stock head unit. I had planned on upgrading everything, but the front sound stage with the factory speakers is not too shabby.

You said "subs". Will a dual-sub box fit into the trunk from the back seat? You won't be able to get it in through the trunk! I downsized to a single sub and it sounds great. What equipment are you installing?

If you are using a stock head unit you need a Line Output Converter. You will need to wire it up to get signal from one of your speaker outputs. There are videos for how to install them on youtube. I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1
I have yet to get it to work, but I think I tapped the wrong wires in the factory amp for sound signal.
Once you hooked up you plug RCAs in it and run them to your amp. There is also a remote turn on wire for your amp included in with the Line Output Converter (LOC), so that's a plus. You run a wire to your amps remote terminal from the blue wire on the LOC. This will allow your amp to turn on once the LOC detects audio signal. Next you need to run the power wire from your install kit there (the red one) from your cars battery to the trunk. The last time I hooked up a system in a GM car was in the early 2000s and back then you needed a special adapter to connect it to the battery since they use the side screw on battery terminals. If your battery has posts on top your set. Lastly you need to ground the black wire from your install kit somewhere in the car. It needs to be a bolt connected to the chassis so it can complete the power circuit. You should be able to find one in the trunk. Sand down the paint by the bolt you choose to attach it to and make sure it is extra secure. I know it's not a diagram, but I tried to explain the best I could. You may be missing some parts like an LOC if you use the stock radio, and a battery adapter if you have the side mount battery terminals and no top posts.