Reddit mentions: The best power converters

I've traveled to quite a few places with my kit lens. It's pretty damn good.

You still have time to fill out the rest of your stuff, if needed:

Filters:

Singh-Ray Filters makes a "ColorCombo LB" filter. Works like wearing a pair of polarized GOOD quality sunglasses outdoors. I never took it off. Excellent quality and helped when the sky was overexposed and when I generally wanted to get a more intense color.

Lens:

Your kit lens will be more than fine for anything during the day. But at night is different. The kit is meh at night. You definitely want something to capture night time. Maybe some star time lapses? Those are always cool.

Leica 15mm F1.7 My wallet hurt when I bought this, but to be honest, it's on my camera more than it's not. It makes the night look amazing. The quality is awesome too.

Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This is our "go-to" as a second lens (for day and/or night), but to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Too much for me, but it's still worth mentioning.

Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away).

Microphones:

If you want a better microphone get the Videomic Pro+. The difference between this and the others are that the mic turns on/off automatically when the camera turns on/off and it has a USB rechargeable battery.

Batteries:

Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are three types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM (which are decoded).

Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.

SD Cards:

I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.

You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.

External Drive:

You WILL run out of space on your laptop. You can either purchase 3-4 SD cards, or you can get an external HDD. Each has it's pros and cons.

Battery Pack / cables:

Whether it's your phone / headphones / batteries / tablet / whatever, I suggest the Anker PowerCore. These things are beasts. One of these made sure I was able to fly from here to Australia without worrying about battery levels.

You'll also want to carry extra wires. Whether MicroUSB, USB-C, or Lightening, I would never use anything else but Anker PowerLine


International Charger:
I used the BESTEK Travel Adapter and loved it. Plenty of ports to charge stuff on. It has a small fan (to keep it cool) that some people say bothers them, but I'm the lightest sleeper and it didn't bother me. Barely heard it.

It seems your original post slipped past my radar, but I work with this technology on a daily basis and would love to provide some help.


I'll get on to your product suggestions shortly, but I do need to address your understanding of power injection. The 50@5v or 100@12v "guidelines" are based strictly on standard-spaced bullet/square ws2811 strings; once you change the length/gauge of wire, this all goes out the window. In order to properly take on a project like this, you MUST have a through understanding of voltage drop. There are formulas (and simple online calculators) that will help you figure out the voltage drop over different gauge's of cable vs length. Power injection is simply a way to combat voltage drop.


The ONLY traditional advantage of 5v pixels was the ability to have individual control over each LED in SMD applications such as strip/rings/panels. There are now 12v individually addressable SMD LEDs such as the WS2815.
I would say the only advantage of 5v pixels at this point would be price, as they are more widely available and less in demand, due to the newer 12v chips. However, in reality, this savings will easily be eaten in more expensive (thicker) wiring and PSUs.


It is a little concerning that you state "i'm running at 12 volts," but you spec a 5v WS2812b ring. If you provide much more than 6v to those rings, you will permanently destroy them. You CAN use a small buck converter though, see below.


Here are my thoughts concerning your choice of LED: they are not the same as in the video. Your rings consist of 12 individually addressable 5v LEDs, while the video seems to use a single addressable source per lantern, most likely a 12v or 24v WS2811 "module" in each, similar to these: http://www.vozop.com/index.php/24v-ws2811-led-pixel-module-12leds-smd5050-rgb-light-20-pack.html


I don't think anything would be wrong with using the ring you spec, and if you have the time to program them neatly, then you could get some neat effects that wouldn't be possible with a single source per lantern. However, the work needed to wire these correct and neat would probably not be worth it in the long run.


Running a 5v system this far apart would require prohibitively thick/expensive wire, so in order to make it work, you will want to distribute power at a higher voltage and drop it down to 5v at each ring. This can be done with a simple and cheap buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI You will need to pick up a voltage meter (multimeter) in order to adjust the pots to the correct voltage, but honestly you shouldn't attempt a project like this without one.


The Tees you spec seem useless for your project, as they do not allow the pixel data to daisy chain between Tees. You will want what's known as a 3,4,3 Tee, like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html You should then get the matching 4-pin pigtails for each ring, and solder them to the +, GND, DI and DO, in accordance with the pin out of the Tees. Don't forget to also pick up matching 3-pin pigtails to connect to your controller and extend distances between Tees.


Your power supply should typically be the last piece of the puzzle. Once you decide on the type of LEDs you are using, you will need to calculate their max current draw in full white, then find a power supply (or multiple) that can provide at least that amount of current. I typically like to spec a PSU that is at least 20-40% more output than required; this keeps things cooler and prolongs the life of the PSU.


Please feel free to ask any questions you may have, I realize this is a lot of information. It does seem like you have a good idea as far controllers and software go.

Oh OK, I never would've thought about charging it while its off until after I had already glued everything together lol.

I went ahead and tried both ways you've just mentioned here to see how it works as I don't have a relay (I'm probably going to end up buying it anyways when I'm done with this prototype and build the real thing).

I bought these adjustable boost converters:

https://www.amazon.com/Gowoops-Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Circuit/dp/B01GRIQBRY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

They take input from 3-30V and output to 4-35V and seemed to be perfect, but when I set everything up like your diagram above, everything actually runs fine with no low voltage but the boost converter makes some interference on the screen.

Ive tried grounding the screen directly to the Pi, the powerboost and its own boost converter, but its ever present when powered by this adjustable boost converter. The screen shows no interference when powered from its own wall charger while the Pi powered from the battery. Also no interference when the screen was powered directly from the Pi when it was doing the low voltage thing.

I see on google that EMI notorious with boost converters, did you have this problem with your old set up? Do you think it could be because its a cheap adjustable one?

Also when I wire the boost converter after the powerboost, to try to give the Pi 5.2-5.4 volts but the raspberry Pi just keeps rebooting over and over. Ive checked its output voltage with the multimeter in that setup and its within the Pi 3's voltage range but it never gets past the emulationstation loading image.

The screen interference is not so bad that I cant live with it, still definitely playable, but if I can fix it I want to.

Again thanks for your help

EDIT: So I basically took your diagram above and swapped the boost converter and the powerboost around and it works perfect! The Pi doesnt seem to mind the interference from the cheap boost converter and the screen works perfect with the powerboost! This leaves the Raspberry Pi being powered by a cheap $2.40 adjustable converter and the $15 screen powered by the $28 powerboost, but it works!

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

You would need a converter that converts the 220v to 120v, something like this

Great, Ill send you a pm :) <br /> <br /> Yeah we have a decent variety over here. Your GF would probably still be excited about flavoured papers as they are really uncommon over here and she might not even smoked one yet. Maybe even some special pipe from the US as in the end its a present from her BF and shell be happy about it.

You could also consider bringing some munchies/food for her. We dontt have a lot of the US brands over here but dont worry too much I am sure shell be happy to see you as you are quite far away from each other, distance wise.

Haha go to the 90s it was even more relaxed back then.. lol

A few of my own:

• Expanding on /u/mc2222's field battery idea:
  
  A great many things...including things you might not otherwise think of...can be powered by a 12V DC power source, such as a car battery.
  
  Swing by Wal-Mart, and check out the Deep Cycle "marine" batteries. They're pretty low quality for marine needs, but they're perfect for ours. Even a mere 50AH of capacity will be PLENTY for what we do. You can pick one up for $40-$80 depending on size/capacity.
  
  Next, look for or build some sort of distribution panel/box/etc. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. All you're after is some central point so you can plug in all this stuff you never knew could be powered off 12V. Personally, I use this guy but there's lots of other methods of doing this.
  
  Now...there's all the obvious things you can power with it. Most motorized mounts, for example, plug right into the car lighter outlet. You can, of course, clip that connector and put some other connector (like the banana plugs my unit takes) on if you wish. But for these items, no further mods are necessary. Dew heaters and camera coolers are other common 12V devices.
  
  Now here's where we get cute...Got a DSLR? It probably has an AC Power Adapter available for it, right? Take a close look at the specs for it...you'll see that while its INPUT is 120VAC (plugs into a wall) it's OUTPUT is plain ole DC...PROBABLY 7.2V or so (a 2 cell LiPo, for the record). Grab yourself a little adjustable step down gadget, cut the cable on the CAMERA side of the converter that's inline, and just use the handy battery adapter piece. Solder it up to the output side of your step down supply, solder up some wires on the input side, set it to 7.2 (or whatever) output, and poof...12V power for your camera. :)
  
  You'll find there's a zillion devices that "plug into the wall", but if you check their OUTPUT, it's 12V DC (or less)...and thus, you can use this method to power them in the field off your field battery. :)
  
  
• Hand Warmers : Not only good for keeping hands toasty on cold imaging nights, but useful for keeping your guide scope or camera lens warmer to help ward off dew/frost.
  
  
• HobbyPartz (among many others, but these guys are amongst the cheapest I've found) has these slick Red LED strips that can be powered by as little as 3V, or up to 12V. They use insanely low amounts of power, so even a small battery pack will power them all night.
  
  What good are they? Well...they're adhesive on the back, AND you can cut them to your desired length, and solder new lead wires onto each strip. Viola...you've got night-vision safe lighting for your laptop, your telescope, your field table..whatever! They serve both to illuminate your work area, AND mark your equipment for others' safety.
  
  

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

They don't come in the 3.5" size, so you need to buy an adapter if you want to install them in the Mac Pro tower. I bought the Icy Dock adapter, and it worked perfectly.

The performance change is absolutely greater than anything else you can do. Boot times are on the order of 5-10 seconds—under 30s to logged in and ready. Software upgrades, compiling, opening and closing big files are practically instantaneous. Adobe PhotoShop CS 5.5 starts in 3-4 seconds. An SSD can often outperform the SATA interface, while a HDD can't even saturate it when used optimally.

You need to install Trim Enabler, which is (legally) free for what matters. Don't listen to others who say the drive(s) have "garbage collection"—it's not the same thing, and only enabling TRIM will guarantee preserving the long-term performance of the SSD. Once you install TE, go into settings and enable "Check for Trim support on boot". This ensures TRIM doesn't get disabled during system updates!

As far as models, if you plan on being a heavy data user, I still recommend the Samsung 840 Pro (must be Pro), the technology is better for power users. On the other hand, I installed a Crucial MX100 model in two laptops recently. They perform great, and are significantly cheaper. I haven't had them as long as the 840.

The process I used for the Mac Pro was to install the OS clean, then point it at my older install. Honestly, I wouldn't do that again. It was slow and more error-prone.

Instead, for the laptops, I used CarbonCopyCloner, and simply clone the OS to a freshly formatted SSD (note: format as Mac Extended (Journaled)). It took a lot less time, and didn't seem to have any negative side effects. Note: the first time you reboot, the OS needs to rebuild all the caches, and Spotlight needs to reindex everything, so it's a bit slower than you'd expect. Let it run for a while or overnight, then you'll see the true performance.

Finally, since I have room for many drives, I keep a spare drive in the computer just for the daily temporary stuff. I actually symlinked my Downloads folder to the spare drive, and I moved all my virtual machines there as well. This reduces wear-and-tear on the SSD, since those are usually temporary files that are used once and then deleted, or big files that I don't really care about. I keep my music and videos there, as well.

I use a 2kw Honda generator for emergency charging through a 20amp marine battery charger and for running the large power tools. I built a DC generator for every day charging using a Harbor Freight gas engine and a 40 amp car alternator. I have two Walmart deep cycle marine batteries which are adequate but not very long life, eventually I'll replace them with four Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. It's critically important not to discharge them more than 50% nor to let them sit partially charged any longer than absolutely necessary. To keep up on charge state I very highly recommend a charge monitor like this.

I have not built my solar system yet but will be using two to three 250 watt panels with a midnight solar MPP charge controller. I use very little AC power so a small Xantrex 600 watt sine wave inverter is sufficient.

I am wiring my cabin with two AC circuits and a few DC outlets, all lighting will be DC LEDs (as in these with small dc/dc power converter boards, I put eight of these in my boat and have two in the camper for the time being, lots of light and only 90ma ea). I haven't decided how much AC I'll be using but I've used DC exclusively for the last year in my 22' camper as I get my site ready to build. I am using an RV fridge that runs on propane and a Mr Heater 18kbtu propane heater, I pay about $25 a month for propane and that will balance out in summer when the fridge takes more to cool and the heater isn't used.

I do not see the need for large inverters unless you come across one used that also contains a large marine (3-stage) battery charger - if I had one I wouldn't use the DC generator as much. I don't run microwaves or electric appliances, just a small tv and small loads that are quick to charge like a Nintendo DS, iPhone, mp3 player and tiny speaker system.

Passive cooling with shade trees and wood fired heating are best if you're off grid. Controlling demand is easy once you get used to it, you do not need a big inverter and in fact they waste a lot of power when they're searching for a load so you're better off with small ones.

Oh and wire to hook it all up is expensive, I use this which is a fraction of the cost of marine stores, it's welding cable so it's practically burn proof and it's extremely flexible. You just need a big hot torch to solder lugs on it because the bare copper conducts the heat away quicker than tinned wire does.

Good luck.

Edit - these Astroenergy panels are what I'm considering, this vendor seems to have good prices at least on panels.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter. BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.

Thanks

Even though the picture of my box really doesn't have anything to do with this but I'm proud of my mod, nothing special but you know how it is.

Before moving here I bought a "northern european" adaptor and found that the pins were slightly too wide for the sockets. I could shove them in, but it wasn't a good fit. However, I purchased some specifically for Switzerland and they fit perfectly.

These are the ones I bought and like the best: (all Amazon links) 3 prong adaptors and a multi-plug adaptor. They've both worked well.

And for those who need a step down transformer, I found that this one also works great.

There are three things you'll need, the battery, a charging board, and a diode. If you know someone who does some modding they might already have the second two. They usually come in sets of a few, making them cheap individually, but if you buy them yourself on Amazon or eBay and need just one, you'll spend a bit more money. However, diodes are super common in things like power adapters, so if you have a junk one laying around, you can most likely get one for free. By power adapter I mean the plugs with the big black end that never fit into a surge protector. If you crack one of those open, you'll probably find a few free diodes. I got mine from an old charger for a broken Phillips hair trimmer. If you have to order them and don't mind waiting much longer for shipping, Aliexpress has super cheap individual charging boards and diodes. I'm impatient though and didn't want to wait a month for shipping. I would also recommend using one of those little wire connector things between the charging board and the GBA so you can disconnect the whole thing easily. I'll link it all below.


Battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTV3MXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Charging Board: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DRT4PWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Diode: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182714565793?ul_noapp=true Or if you want to stick with Amazon Prime but pay more: https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-1N270-Germanium-Optimized/dp/B008UG12M6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1N270+diode&qid=1564894452&s=gateway&sr=8-4


Little connector thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pairs-Micro-JST-1-25-2-Pin-Male-and-Female-Connector-plug-with-Wires-Cables/361418912735?epid=1083311732&hash=item54263ef3df:g:kOYAAOSwmrlUrPoE


This is the GBA that I modded recently. More pics and details in the fist comment. https://old.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/cm7i4o/my_first_gba_mod_more_info_and_pics_in_the/

> If I DO get the battery, wouldn't I have to let it drain..use the energy in it prior to using solar to fill it up again?

To this question, no to draining. Consider it like a car battery in a car, where it is set for a life of re-maintaining charge off of the alternator/reg. Your 'solar' battery is made for it.

Now, since you bought the 'briefcase' already, I'm not going to reccomend something else, but could if you want.
The reviews don't seem great, understandably. 13 Watt just simply isn't that much, and the convenience isn't worth it, tho the price isn't too bad, comparably. You still have something cool, so not looking to get you down because you shouldn't be. But there are better options, getting cheaper every year. Depending on your usage requirements, you will be the one to find out if it works for you or not.

Sounds like you might have decent setup for someone is simply doing those first things you mentioned. You would want to upgrade if we're talking about the fridge or a vacuum (exceptions being 12v/off-grid styles for these.)

There could be some concerns running the 500 W Inverter off this regulator. I'm pretty sure I used a 300 W inv. off of this same controller box. One night, in a tent with my laptop connected, running audio interface via firewire, the damn thing exploded. I've since discovered it was one of the 12 V regulator (3 pin transistor) chips in it - which makes it an easy fix if you have the component and can solder.

My final point that I will make for you is to look for solutions that come straight off the 12 V Load source from the controller. In other words, bypass the inverter - it sucks too much juice inefficiently for smaller-duty uses such as charging phones. If it's possible to rig up a 12 V laptop cable that you can connect to your source, your system will be completely quiet and maybe 2X as efficient or more! Buy things like this for charging your phone/USB devices, just make sure you diode-protect it or don't switch pos and negative accidentally (I've roasted 2 of them, doing it differently now) Anyway, that's
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466295975&sr=8-5&keywords=12+v+dc+to+5v+dc+converter

Good for you, hope this helps!

I'm gonna add some thoughts here. I'm also gonna quote from some of your other comments and add it to this thread.

>I need to get an international phone plan

First make sure your phone is unlocked. If you bought it straight from Apple/Samsung/LG/etc it will be. If it's locked to your carrier call and have them unlock it. Then when you get to Italy buy a SIM card from a local company (Like Vodaphone). There is almost always kiosks in the airport for this sort of thing. Here's some more information on it. (http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Italy). You'll have a local phone number, and access to however much data you purchased for your time there. Once home just slap your old SIM card in and carry on!

>a proper charger for my phone

Here you go. This one served me well on 3 continents so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

>call my credit card companies and let them know I will be in a different country so my card doesn't get shut down

Maybe? I'd suggest getting yourself one of these.
http://www.cashpassport.com/1/global-landing-page/

Pre-load it with your euro's and avoid having to pay transaction fees on your current credit card. It's accepted anywhere Mastercard is (so almost everywhere) and it's insured with 24/7 global assistance.

>I wont be paying for transportation except for if we go out to a bar and the driver wants to drink.

UBER works worldwide, even with your American credit card on file.

Oh and check to see if your Credit Card offers any kind of lounge access. A lot of pseudo-premium cards offer 2-4 free lounge visits a year. A little quiet with some free food and booze is a godsend during a layover!

Ok so you have 2 options, one not as practicable but would be more convenient with more sets. Option 1, the easier one, is to get an adapter like this one. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=75+ohm+to+300+ohm+adapter&qid=1573104431&sprefix=75ohm+to&sr=8-9

It doesn't have to be this exact model but you just need some sort of adapter like this one. Considering this tv was made without any inputs other than RF, this is your best bet. This is also considering your vcr has RF, but since nearly every vcr has RF already you should be fine. The second option, is less practical but possible is to create your own analog station in your home. Since the analog airwaves for tv have been pretty much abandoned, you can do what you want with it and this would be a neat thing to setup, especially since it would also be able to transmit to portable tvs also. If you don't want to buy an adapter brand new, you could probably find a used one in a thrift store but the new ones are not all that expensive either. There are also rca to RF converter boxes so with those you can take composite video and lay it on this tv.

Equipment

• Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  
• Custom 3d printed housing
  
• Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  
• USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  
• DC-DC Converter
  
• Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  
• Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  
• Add-a-fuse
  
• Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system
  
  Must Have Apps
  
  
• GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.
  
  Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
  
  
• pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  
• address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here
  
  More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.

American here, currently living in the West Midlands (so no local area advice from me for you re: Richmond/London). Ten years ago my wife and step kids moved to the US, and this year we moved back to the UK. Opinions are my own.

• What American things won’t be available in the UK (food, appliances, TV shows/movies)?
  
  These days, especially with Amazon and streaming TV, you can find pretty much anything you'd want. That said, some of it will be pretty pricey. As a brief example, I make my own jerky with beef from the local butcher's because fuck paying $30-$40 a pound for a tiny package. From both my wife and my experience, you will miss local foods/delicacies that just aren't common/popular. You will also discover new foods you've never had a chance to try before. If one/both of you enjoys cooking, you can easily get by. As an example, you won't find American biscuits in the UK.
  
  
• What are the big day-to-day lifestyle things that are different in the UK?
  
  It is a different country, and no one can really tell you what to expect, as experiences are different. I found crossing the street to take some getting used to, as I had 30+ years of ingrained lessons telling me to look the wrong way. You seem adaptable and open minded, which will be a good asset.
  
  
• Will people hate us because we’re American?
  
  No. No matter where you go, people hate assholes. As long as neither of you acts like a stereotypical American/American tourist, you'll be fine, and you will make friends. Respect that it's their country. Be careful about expression absolute opinions about politics, especially their politics. Assimilate and adapt where needed, and you will have no issues preserving your American identity as an "ex-pat" who is well-liked.
  
  
• Will my electronics work there (iphone, ipad, computer)?
  
  By and large yes. Anything that charges via USB is good to go, just buy some wall plugs for your cables. For most modern electronics (laptop/desktop/tv/monitor), they are typically rated to handle the full range of voltages (check on the adapter/power supply etc if you're worried). With a desktop you have to flip a switch on the power supply on your tower from 110 to 220, but with everything else, you just need to cut the plug end off the cable and re-wire it to a British fused plug. I would recommend one of these.
  
  Any appliances like hair dryers, things with simple motors, will NOT work unless you run them through a step down voltage adapter like I linked (unless you like electrical fires) so unless they're especially costly, you're probably better off replacing. Lightbulbs are different as well.
  
  
• How often will I be expected to watch soccer football?
  
  Never if you don't want to. If you are into sports and/or have sporty mates that might be different, but it's not a national religion.
  
  
• What else am I missing or should I know?
  
  How are you moving your stuff to the UK? We used upakweship.com, and it cost $2,500 door to door to ship two pallets. They'll be able to advise you on needed customs clearance, etc.
  
  I assume your partner's work will be arranging/paying for your visas?
  
  You'll have to figure out pet immigration.
  
  Don't call people Sir or Ma'am as a general rule. It's weird and is more likely to convey insult than offense. If you do slip, people will find it quaint.
  
  Since VAT is applied to products before pricing, instead of having to calculate sales tax on top of your purchase, if you have 5 quid in your pocket, you can buy 5 quid worth of things at the store.
  
  Public transport is generally better than in most major US cities, so that's a major plus.
  
  If you have any follow up questions I'd be happy to answer.

The splitter was needed because you probably wanted to get the coax to both your FM receiver and the TV or set top cable box. It was nothing more than a simple coax splitter.

However, you'd also need a matching transformer to convert coax at 75ohm into the two leads for your receiver's external FM antenna at 300ohm.

At least, I think that's how I did it. :-)

Alcade looks like a good source for future research. I noticed KTSB and KVRX matched hits in many different issues, and while perusing those parts, adjacent articles also looked interesting.

I went to ACTV studios one evening when Dean Langston was doing his dating show, Singles Hotline. I have part of one of those on VHS somewhere. I never directly participated in the show, that I remember, but ended up going out a few times with the chalkboard girl he had on the show that same night tallying contestant answers. It looks like he passed away in 2001. Here's a clip of him ... previewing VR (which I'm pretty sure has been posted here before).

When We Were Live was dropping ACTV videos on here (/u/ArchiveAlias/), but I haven't seen them in awhile. Here's their youtube.

I watched hours of Ask Livia LIVE! ... or maybe she was just on TV in the background while I talked to friends on the phone all night, because that's what we did.

The model should have the voltage it's designed for one it, I believe.
Many were sold for american markets.
I'm not sure how picky the srd-6 is, if it was designed for certain voltages, or a range.
I don't have mine on me to check if it's labelled.
I do remember people on head-fi saying they plug it in to american outlets just fine, but it might shorten it's life if it's not meant for it.
You're best bet is to search the 1000 page stax thread on head-fi.
Diffidently not European.
I use this converter

Also, I take it you won that auction that just went for 111?
Congratulations.

Sorry, but you got bad advice if someone told you to get powered monitors and a receiver. You've effectively bought two amps. Can you return either of them? You would probably be better off with passive speakers and an AVR.

Also, you can use RCA as well with the LSR-305. You just need a 1/4" TS adapter.

EDIT: if you're absolutely stuck with this setup then you can use a line level adapter like this one. The wires go into the receivers speaker output and you get RCAs to plug your monitors into. It's far from ideal since you're double amping but I've done it before and it does work pretty well.

Its relatively easy. Splice into rear speaker wires for preamp (rca) signal, and run power & remote,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495131589&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+converter+for+car+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=51N99mFrh%2BL&ref=plSrch#


unless it's one of the newer signal sensing auto ON amps.

Or disconnect the oem Bose sub harness, leave it disconnected and tap into that harness for power, remote, and signal (+ & -).

As for the shop and the previous backup camera issue, find another shop asap. Those idiots either grounded the monster amp to the tiny ground screw that the backup cam uses, or they spliced into the camera's power wire as a remote turn on for the amp since it powers on with the ignition.

Try over at Best Buy, their auto installation bay area where they do alarms, radios, gps, etc.

Definitely check crutchfield.com. They have an online "what speakers fit my car" section, and their customer service is great, as well as their knowledge of in-car entertainment. You can even call them with questions.

agreed. I got one because it was too interesting not to try out.

It is very well made, and I wanted to find it useful but it just wasn't. For most non-art actions it seemed to be a complicated substitute for a scroll wheel that you had to unhand your mouse for. The most useful function in day-to-day windows work I found was as a volume knob.

So, I ended up instead getting one of these (which is fantastic for Google Earth):

https://www.3dconnexion.com/spacemouse_compact/en/

and an actual dedicated volume knob:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG

Much better.

I also now see they make a wireless version of the Space Mouse.

After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.

2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator

Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.

Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;

• DC 12 volt power bus (battery main) gets hooked to the charge controller, powering it up in the 12v range.
  
• Negative bus lead connects to the regulator negative.
  -Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
  
• Relay pass out 12v positive lead connects to regulator positive.
  
• Relay 'activate power' leads get connected to 'lamp controller' on charge controller.
  
• Regulator positive and negative out connect to miner power cables (pci-e)
  
  Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
  
  By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
  
  The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.

Yes, use this to connect to a TV with RCA inputs:

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2881

Do not buy this cable from Amazon unless it specifically says it works with the Pi. Most standard cables will not because they are wired differently.

Note that you use the composite video out on the Pi, and do not need an HDMI converter.

If it's an old TV with only a coaxial antenna connection, you will need an RF modulator as well:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-rf-modulator-black/4947028.p?skuId=4947028&ref=212&loc=1&gclsrc=aw.ds&&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuoCmhYiO3gIVQz0MCh1eLw3hEAQYASABEgKm2_D_BwE

Don't buy the cheap Amazon knock off converters. I tried both, and the Best Buy one is the way to go.

And finally, if your TV is so old and only has VHF antenna terminal connections, you will also need this:

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY

Using all the above, I am playing on a TV from 1978 and it is amazing!

where to begin...

your stock alt is most likely ~90 amps, you should be fine powering that hifonics off of it. that being said upgrading your battery is a good idea, even if that is just buying a new battery (something like an interstate megatronII will be fine) and doing the big 3 is also a good idea, at the very least upgrade your battery to chassis ground (0 ga CCA will be fine for this).

as for your installation options, you will be needing a LOC if you want to keep the stock HU, something like this will be fine.

the stock HU should be just fine running those alpines and no it does not put out 160W rms, its probably closer to 10W per channel so those alpines will cope just fine.

if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask, this sub is here to help.

something like this or this?
and will the sound quality take a noticeable hit with such a setup? this record player is really nice but if it's going to sound like garbage i would just consider buying a newer one..

thanks for your help with this!

Yeah, the Xbox One power supply is rated for 100-120V or 220-240V so you can't just plug it straight into the wall. Also, since it draws quite a bit of power, you can't just use any "travel power converters" either, because you will blow a fuse. Notice, I said CONVERTER and not adapter.

So in short you have two options:

a) buy a power converter (also known as a transformer) that is adequate. I use this one, but I go in reverse i.e. US Xbox One in a European country:

http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/

b) Just buy a US power supply for the Xbox One. It can be ordered through Xbox support (also on the website I believe) and you can also try GameStop!

I recommend to buy a US power supply instead of the converter as it is loud, bulky and heavy. I only got it, because at the time in parts of Europe where I was, the Xbox One hadn't released, which means no power supply available.

Also of note, is in my excitement I completely forgot about the voltage difference and plug it into the wall. Needless to say, the whole house tripped a fuse, and the room smelled funky. The power supply had to be replaced, and Amazon was nice enough to exchange it free of charge, but I had to wait an excruciating month!

Neither, I use ICY DOCK and like devices, you can get Icy Dock for single SSD/HDD to multiple drives. I use it to change my boot drive to transferring data from my PC to laptop and so on. So the 2.5" part is to insert a boot SSD (Window or a Linux distribution OS) and the 3.5" I use to transfer data or back it up to a 6T HDD.

For my desktop I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJ8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5-25in-Trayless-Mobile-3-5in/dp/B000KS8S9W/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/145-7509564-3873745?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KS8S9W&pd_rd_r=eef1512f-6959-4fde-9177-ce62c8768090&pd_rd_w=RY63p&pd_rd_wg=xKSNf&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ&psc=1&refRID=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ that needs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 if I want to use a 2.5" drive to transfer info.

For my laptop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1QLJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so I don't have a DVD any more but any hot swap SSD port now. :-) Or press my keys to select a boot device and boot another OS.

Icy Dock does offer this same technology https://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=245, just an idea, a flexible idea to me. Win on one NVMe SSD, a Linux distro on an other NVMe SSD, and have as many as you want this way, I do.

What you are up against is economy of scale - there is no market for an inverter like that, so there are no low cost (mass produced) ones out there.

You may have better luck getting a 24 to 12V step down and then using a 12V Inverter - I know this is clunky, but step down efficiency is usually pretty good.

I give you high marks for workmanship, that thing's pretty cool.

Here is a module to consider if you want to upgrade your design. This little module uses a switched mode voltage regulator instead of a linear VR, which makes it MUCH more efficient - about 95%, vs. the 50% or less you'll usually get from a LVR. The efficiency is so high that you can supply up to 3A at almost any output voltage without a heat sink!

You'll still need your diode bridge and initial filtering caps to provide unregulated DC to the module, and you'll need to desolder the pot and replace it with an equivalent that you can mount externally so you can adjust it easily.

So, something like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Gowoops-10-32V-Converter-Adjustable-Voltage/dp/B01GRIQBRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=12v+boost+converter&qid=1551120922&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/DaFuRui-Converter-Regulator-Convert-Phones、MP3、MP4/dp/B07KGNHGLW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UWDKIKAGLKTE&keywords=5v+boost+converter&qid=1551120878&s=gateway&sprefix=5v+boos&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

And these for the batteries?

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-lithium-Rechargeable-Batteries-Upgraded/dp/B0129F9BXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=55675675603&hvadid=274750007929&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9011555&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14665574995411272658&hvtargid=kwd-295887349086&keywords=18650+batteries&qid=1551120821&s=gateway&sr=8-5&tag=hydsma-20

Also, when I'm wiring everything up do I want to connect the batteries together and then wire the boost converters to to combined output of the batteries, or should I use one battery for the 12v converter and one for the 5v converter?

Thanks for the reply! You've been very helpful

If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&pd_rd_w=1kwf3&pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&psc=1&refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE

48v 2 channel amp

Subwoofer amp

8" weatherproof coaxials

Subwoofer

Head Unit

line out converter

Head unit shield

Need to be pretty handy for this setup, but it isn't anything crazy. The amplifiers will power on when you put juice to them so you'll need a switch. You can run off of the main batteries with these amps, and the head unit off of the 12v supply. Those coaxials are meant for wakeboard speakers... I would do 4 per side, depending on how loud you really want to be and how much space you have available. Having a real head unit will make sure the signal has enough signal strength to run the 2 channel, and the sub amp will be fed by rca right from the head unit.

Sub will need a box, might look for one that is sprayed with bed liner for weather resistance.

For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.

There's a few things you can check.

First, most adapters do NOT convert voltage, they simply make the plugs fit in the other hole. If you look at the 'power brick' of the device you're connecting if it has one (AC to DC converters like USB wall chargers, laptops, etc.) then they will have Input and Output sections (most will have something like "Input: 100-240V AC~50-60Hz 0.5A"). Anything like this doesn't need a voltage converter, just the outlet adapter so it fits in the hole. Hair Dryers/Curling Irons are notorious for exploding when plugged into 240V, which is why they almost all have a switch somewhere that must be set to the higher value. If you have it set to 240 and plug into 110, it just won't get hot enough. The other way around is bad news.

If you do have a voltage converter (which is highly unlikely, it would be a very expensive and heavy device. $20 on Amazon will NOT convert voltage), then it should say somewhere on it (or in the instructions) what the output is. In this case, it should have been something like 110V AC~60Hz ???A. In this case, if your device tries to draw too many amps, you can blow up the converter (or more likely your device just won't work). For example, this device has a maximum of 200W which is flirting with what some curling iron type devices use. I am having trouble imagining any situation where using a voltage converter would blow up the device connected to it, unless the converter output was set to a higher voltage.

But in general, all of that small print that is on things that plug into outlets actually has some important and useful info. As long as everything is in range, you shouldn't have any problems.

Bestek universal travel adapter

I traveled to South Africa and just used a simple voltage converter and was fine. I also had my laptop, tablet, phone and camera to charge. But sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry 😊

You'll need an rf modulator, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCJBM46AQKFHHE22KS5W

That tv is really cool, good luck!

I'd say you should be more concerned about the Power Adapter, don;t want to break your system by feeding it too much power.

For a video signal, you can just use a normal NES RF Switch and set your TV to channel 95 or 96. This is a problem on modern TVs, as most don't go up that far, but older TVs should have that channel.

If you're looking for an adapter for power, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4

The cheaper ones should work on game systems, and it is a good idea to only give the system the power it was made for. If you plug it right into a US outlet, there shouldn't be too much, but the voltage is 10-20 volts higher here than it is in Japan, so I'd highly recommend getting a power converter. You don't want to accidentally burn up your game system.

OK that sounds like a plan, so like one of these little guys:

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519216216&sr=8-5&keywords=buck+converter

adjust it with a screwdriver and a meter to dial it in and solder my wires in place and I should be good, thanks!

I bought a 12v to 5v step down converter. I can't find the exact one I bought in my amazon history for some reason, but it is similar to this : https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2. I then bought a 12v 10amp 2 pole rocker switch that lit up when powered on from Auto zone and hooked it in between my fusebox and the converter. Then I just turned it on to power the Pi up and then shut down the Pi correctly before powering it off.

I have seen a few tutorials on adding a small battery and creating some sort of auto shutdown script on the PI once the main power is off, if you want something automatic, but didn't look too much into it. I may revisit it once I get everything installed again, hopefully by this weekend. Have my DD components and coaxials coming in this week and I'll be ready to rock and roll!

I had actually come up with a decent list of stuff needed to do a tablet install in a car using a Windows tablet and a S/PDIF connection to a DSP but I never got around to it due to the cost. Here's what I came up with (I know you're UK based but this stuff should be able to be found across the pond):

• USB OTG charging hub - you're going to have to try a few models of this out to find one that works reliably. USB OTG charging is notoriously difficult to get working in a stable way
  
• USB DC-DC 3 amp power convertor for powering all the stuff
  
• USB Bluetooth Adapter - This part is tricky because Windows will connect to bluetooth stuff but doesn't natively HOST bluetooth stuff. This adapter with the included software will fix that and it works but its a tad clunky
  
• Joycon EXR steering wheel interface This guy has a lot of uses, including backup camera control, steering wheel control, and other voltage relay monitors
  
• FM Tuner
  
• USB GPS adapter
  
• USB GPS driver for integrated maps control - GPSDirect
  
• USB to S/PDIF adapter or if you don't plan on using a DSP then a decent USB to RCA DAC
  
  Good luck!
  
  EDIT: as far as software goes Kodi would probably be one of the better choices for software to run on Windows for this purpose.
  

Same here with a converter And came with small adapters for all scenarios. Love this thing. 20+ countries 4 continents and makes you a hero at the airport where everyone is sharing one outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

Does it have external antenna inputs (probably 2 sets of screws, one for VHF, one for UHF)?

If so you could get a 75 Ohm to 300 Ohm adapter and then a RF Modulator converter.

This way you can feed it composite input without making any internal modifications. Honestly, the modifications sound more fun and would probably have better picture quality, too 😁

For your subs, you can pretty much get any $15-$20 loc and be fine.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pz3xxb48SVB7F

If you dont want to wait for shipping. Im sure your local electronics or car audio installation shop has one. Best buy carrries some too, if that's by you.

Get the cheapest plug adapter you can find, and several of them, because you'll probably leave one in a hotel room. You can get the simple blocky ones for 8 bucks or less on Amazon, and if you had to pick one up at an airport you'd pay like $20.

And now, to contradict my own advice, I also like the USB chargers which take multiple plugs. If you travel with multiple USB-charged devices like my family does, they are very useful. There are many on Amazon, here's two at random:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-YXwin-4-Ports-International-Adapter/dp/B072FV67ZS/ref=sr_1_7

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MoMoCity-International-Worldwide-Smartphone/dp/B01M1GUJHV/ref=sr_1_10

EDIT: Looks like you can get the simple blocky ones with USB now. It might just make sense to pick up a few of these instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504473249&sr=8-3&keywords=international+plug+adapter

The plan is to have the whole setup being run from one or two 12v dry cells, the kind that are used in UPS back-up systems.


I can pretty easily get power to the relay boards from a separate 5v source like this and I'll just get a 2nd one for pi itself.

Thanks for your input!

Naturally i have thought about markets for this as well. The thing is, these supplies are mainly used for Rolleiflex Lenscontrol S camera control systems which are only used on View Cameras (Professional Cameras) in commercial studios. I think the market is rather limited, but why not try?!


Ill get you the board details tonight when i get access.


Could i use a Constant Current 10V board and feed it with a DC/DC converter to keep the input supply? Potentially even a LED Constant Current Driver? Would that be a viable option?

https://www.amazon.de/Einstellbar-Converter-Step-Down-Modul-Stück/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523431336&sr=8-3&keywords=dc%2Fdc+converter

this one + a Constant Current board for example?

Thanks again for your amazing efforts, you already helped tremendously.



EDIT: I just opened another of those, to my suprise its completely different... I attach some pics.

https://imgur.com/a/zLjFn

Searched for the MOSFET's etc. Link List:

• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/AVX/BZ02CA903ZLB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDCPMZUZ%252bYl8KRGGE777VRvZBcGAWBuwA%3d
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/productdetail/texas-instruments/tl780-12kcs?qs=DXdcjUGny5MQtqZC%2F8uCmQ%3D%3D
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/SS34?qs=2ONuHmP%2fXzb3ub11UdFfdQ==
  
  And another i believe says "M9RB L46A", cant find that tho.
  
  With my limited knowledge it appears to me that its exactly doing what you said.
  
  I guess that just adds more info (?)

Aside from obvious techie stuff like extra batteries for your stuff, an external powerpack, an unlocked dual-SIM phone (I got a OnePlus X off of Amazon India for ~$150),and your own headphones (I always swipe one of those airline headphones with the annoying two-prong jack and have that on me along with my Skullcandy over-ear foldable headphones with the normal single 9-mm jack...although I may have to pick up an adapter like this and use that with my Skullcandy instead) and apart from clothing items like a sarong, rubber flip-flops, extra underwear, and microfiber towels, three things I never travel without:

• a bunch of Ziplock bags
  
  
• a coiled length of rope/twine: you can use it to help hang up your laundry in a hotel room, use it to tie down your baggage, etc. etc.
  
  
• an international power converter: I got the BESTEK Portable International Travel Voltage Converter, and the extra international adapters really saved the day more than once for me.

Receivers like this aren't usually designed to feed power amps other than an active sub-woofer, with it's own built in amp. It's to be expected, for convenience sake that everything needed, including the amplifier is contained in that one box.

Power amps on the other hand are more for people who prefer to build a system using separates. Separate amp(s), separate tuner etc., and using a pre-amp (some have tuners built in and others don't) as a switching station, volume control etc., for all of the separate components.

The only thing I can recommend is to use a speaker to line level converter. Here is an inexpensive model for example of what it is sake.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451244396&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level

This will connect to the speaker terminals of your receiver instead of speakers and will convert that signal to a line level signal needed to feed your power amp. The receiver will still control the volume etc.

If you are going to use the Fisher STV-893 towers as your front L&Rs for the 5.1 Pioneer VSX-521 system then those are the speaker terminals you want to use the "speaker to line level converter" on.

Anybody used the card-TEC? Currently have this - https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ + a zolt: https://www.amazon.com/Zolt-Portable-Laptop-Charger-Plus/dp/B06X91V6SD. I'm really just looking to slim down so I don't necessarily need the usb-c, could just get the adapter with one or two usb ports. My current universal adapter doesn't way much but the form factor is a little bulky to me. Wondering if it's worth spending extra on one of these but I'm not seeing many reviews....

Mogics thing looks cool but says it weights 16oz? That's pretty heavy.

In Chile we have 220v outlets, while ya'll have 110v outlets. Before using this adapters you have to make sure that your device says 110~240.

This'll do: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adapter-Converter-American-European/dp/B0078QEY9M/

Something fancier (i have this exact same one): http://www.amazon.com/Insten-Universal-Travel-Charger-Adapter/dp/B000YN01X4/

State-of-the-art travel adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-33117-International-Travel-Adapter/dp/B0002H4YUI/

If you need 220v to 110v conversion you gonna need this baby:
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q

I hope it helps. Cheers.

edit: Is your screen name an Opeth reference?

See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.

• one of these - not sure where to get them these days but like this
  
• one of these
  
• and an rf modulator
  
  Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.
  
  Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.

I recently put one of these adapters in my 2950 to house my 120GB SSD. Works well.

It's cheap construction, but since I won't be swapping it out frequently, I think it will be fine. Apparently they sell a nicer version (i.e., metal) for like 2x the price.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would set it up like this:

Main DC-DC (19-29 V in, 24V out) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01N52HIWN/ref=pd_sbs_328_19?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LWXI4IE&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&th=1

DC-DC 24V in to 12V out: https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=pd_sbs_328_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BWKXTUU&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&psc=1&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359

DC-DC (Battery in OR 24V in to 20V out): https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Adjustable/dp/B075RQCW7G/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=20V+dc+dc&qid=1566858344&s=gateway&sr=8-13

​

have fun :)

Searching around on Amazon, I found this.

Would this fit my need? My understanding is that it would take the 12V input and boost it to whatever voltage I set it to, say 19V. And the current through the converter would just vary depending on how much power my system is drawing, correct?

Thanks for the help

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

I've gone the other way, and am happily using a 50Hz grinder on 60Hz.

For a 110V appliance in the UK you will need a transformer. Something like this should be good enough, but check the power rating of your grinder first. I googled it and got 165Watts but don't take my word for it. Cut the plug of it (the transformer, not the grinder) and fit a UK one, it's safer than using an adaptor.

Well unplug the sub from the phono input :)

Then buy a direct box for about 10 dollars at any Best Buy that converts speaker level to line level and wire it in parallel with the left or right channel.

Great, thanks.

I do believe that the speed of that fan can be reduced by reducing the voltage.

To reduce the voltage: https://us.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/design/power#wiki_reducing_voltage_of_a_power_supply

Buy a ready-made buck converter module:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Step-up-Circuit/dp/B06XWSV89D/ref=pd_cp_263_2/131-4260846-4210816

What are the advantages of OFC? Will it sound better/last longer, etc.?

Also, could I get away this this cheap Line out converter, or should I get something better? Thank you for being so much help!

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=pd_bxgy_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001EAWS3W&pd_rd_r=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08&pd_rd_w=gL0hJ&pd_rd_wg=gFhz3&psc=1&refRID=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08

I'm heading to Thailand again next week. u/LungTotalAssWarlord is correct that you shouldn't need a voltage converter (the item you linked to does not convert voltage, by the way). Most modern chargers/power supplies can handle 110v-220v and 50-60Hz - check your units to be sure.

While a lot of outlets in newer buildings may accept American style plugs you may need a few of these to convert to the rounded-style outlets that are typical in SE Asia.

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0084OPT8C/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0084OPT8C&pd_rd_r=E44463Y4D2XNNMEZ6J1K&pd_rd_w=91JYj&pd_rd_wg=j3XUA&psc=1&refRID=E44463Y4D2XNNMEZ6J1K

Most outlets are 2-prong so have a work-around for that.

I carry a multi-outlet USB charger that works on all voltages, and I charge every with that. Have a great trip.

It's super easy. You could get new duckheads for your power adapters like these. Or you could get separate adapters like these. There are also these, which allow you to plug two things into one adapter.

You could also get the World Adapter kit from Apple, for $30. But that's kind of overkill.

You might want to check where you're going. Many places already have adapters. Many hotels have adapters at the front desk that were left behind by guests (like me).

> If you have a 33V LED module, a boost converter with adjustable constant current output would give you good smooth dimming.

So let's say I get an LED module like this, with a boost converter like this and appropriate heatsinks. Would this setup work?

I imagine the boost converter is PWM, but I don't know at what voltages this LED module is off, on, and in between. For example, if it turns off at 30V, and fully on at 31V, then I have a very small range to work with and it will be a nightmare to set the potentiometer on the fly. How can I know what would work?

I really like my Mobius Action cam (Wide angle). It's really easy once it is set up, and I would consider it to be a easy-meduim install for someone who is handy with car wiring. This is a post i made awhile ago on here with some info:

You can see day and night examples from mine at these links: Day / Night
also, here is a recent post on /r/JusticePorn where the road rager behind me crashes at the end: Link

I would consider adhesive mounts. Worst case, you can get residue off windows with some solvent. It's not easier, but it's not an issue if you want it up all the time.

PM me with any questions if you want.

I am talking about my rear setup, but its the same for the front:

Pictures of the install: Link (if you have RES and the last pic is rotated incorrectly, just click the picture)

It is a Mobius ActionCam: Link

To install, I powered it by tapping the radio fuse and running the positive wire back to the rear seat under the door sills. I connected it to this 12V DC to USB converter: Link

I found the correctly angled MiniUSB cable and ran it up to the window: Link

I got an adhesive mount because I didn't want it to ever fall off in the heat like some suction cups can. Also, the defroster lines on the window would prevent a suction. I got the "CH-358" from this page: Link

There are also 2 pictures of the front camera in that album. It was installed in roughly the same manner, but I used a different angled USB cable and a lower profile adhesive mount.

I was working on something very similar yesterday. Yes you will need to power the servo's separately. I was able to get everything from Amazon yesterday. You will need a power supply. I bought a 12V power supply from amazon.

Battery Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RQW5WG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will also need probably two dc-dc step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXKBJI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can split these with a simple adapter and connect both of your step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNL1YA8/ref=twister_B00NNL1XIG

You will wire the output from one converter to the one side of your breadboard and the other to the otherside. You probably want to separate the power from the pi and your servo's so that you don't get a voltage drop which could damage your pi. There are cheaper solutions to this like using a simple voltage regulator but you would give up 7v in heat. So it is recommended to get an efficient dc converter.

My 2cents

Yeah whoops. The one you listed also won't work as it's exclusively a buck converter. That means it can only step down the voltage. I can't quickly find a commercial one that will handle your voltage range. One solution would be to step it up with a boost only converter and then linearly regulate it back down. Here's a boost that could handle it

Buy them from someone who has a set they're not using. They don't sell them separately. But they're not worth tracking down really, there are usually better options available... The Vortex PBT doubleshot backlits are a real upgrade. But they're out of stock everywhere unless you like white.

And that brings me to why I would not recommend a K70. For one, you have to run their software 24/7 for any lighting functionality or macros. If you use multiple computers, your settings also won't travel with the keyboard. Secondly, don't buy a K70 if you don't like the caps, they're rather hard to find good replacements for.


The MasterKeys has the most sensible media key shortcuts I've ever used, can fit the vast majority of keycaps, and I would add a DROK volume knob if you really feel like you need that.

If you don't plan to upgrade the other speakers in the future, the lower-priced options (meaning: whatever you find at your local electronics supplier) will be fine.
Fancier models can give you more outputs, such as Front, Rear, Sub, and will also give you more level control.

My recommendations are:

Budget - PAC-SNI-35
Midrange - AudioControl LC2i
High End - AudioControl LC7i
Audiophile - JBL MS-8

Again, it mostly depends on your future plans.
The cheapest of the cheap will do the job, but if you can afford it, pick one that is a bit more than you think you currently need.
Because chances are good that you'll want to continue upgrading.

Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | SMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 5v/3a Power Supply Module
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

> oof, 2.5dB noise factor on that thing. Any reason you went with that over the lna4all?

It may seem silly, but I really liked the idea of a USB power connector. Also shipping was faster.

> Also, pointers on the phasing harness for your crossed dipole?

1/4 (fudged)VF wavelength of RG8X soldered onto the elements. On the coax end I put a 4:1 TV balun for ease of assembly.

Posting as a tinkerer, not necessarily an electronics expert (I'm still in school for that, and only first quarter!).

Just so I'm clear, you are just wanting to use the battery to power the speaker setup, using an MP3 player or something as the source, correct?

This is totally doable, the main item you are missing is some sort of audio amplifier (an mp3 player etc won't drive the speakers). You could build this from scratch, from a kit, or just buy one. From your first sentence, you probably want to buy one, this is one I've had on my Amazon wish list:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3HMEAX7MZ76LD&coliid=IPZIVXD6MGRA9

Assuming the Ruckus batter is 12v, you would be connecting this just like you would to a car. That amplifier just takes RCA for the audio (so just use an adapter cable like you would to connect your MP3 player to your stereo), and then has built in speaker terminals.

You can also wire in something like this so you can power your mp3 player/phone/whatever:

http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395441015&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+to+usb+adapter

For your speakers, I'm not much help there, but I'm figuring you would want something weatherproof so they don't get destroyed (some are made from paper, even a light sprinkle could ruin them pretty quickly).

Anyhow, hope this helps. Usual warnings apply, no warranty, etc etc. :)

Looks like India has 220 V. So you should be able to buy the xbox one from the US, and a European power brick, or just a European version.

You may need a plug adapter though.

edit: Yeah, looks like you might need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374389779&sr=1-1&keywords=voltage+converter

You could always do the opposite and remove the battery, then power with something like a LM2596 DC-DC Module, something like:

http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-1Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO

I did that on one of my 10 inch tablets, and mounted the tablet to a monitor swing arm, works perfect, just adjust the LM2596 DC-DC Module to what your battery was putting out.

On my 10 inch tablet I had the LM2596 DC-DC Module set to 5v, and ran another 5v+ wire from the LM2596 DC-DC converter to the USB connector, I ran this extra wire so the tablet believes the battery is charging, if not the tablet will try and shutdown because it thinks your battery is draining.

After looking online with local stores I ended up just buying off amazon. I'll have to wait about a week or so for delivery but I'll have my dynavap til then. This is what I went with, hopefully it works lol

converter

the amp they suggested is fine, you could just get the same stuff off the web for super cheap

4 gauge amp kit - $32.48

line out converter - $13.02

SAE-1000D - $314.99

ported prefab - $49.99

that puts my amazon cart total at $411.39 tax included, and if you didnt want to do the amp install then buy your stuff online then take that amp/amp kit/loc to a shop and pay them to install it.

However, I would recommend a custom box rather than the prefab I recommended as you would get a lot lower bass.

Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.


Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

Assuming the by RAW port, you mean the VIN port, you're already likely using a 7805 that apparently has a current limit of 200mA. Assuming you're driving the LEDs directly from digital pins, using I = V/R you can roughly calculate the current you're consuming, where V is 5, and R is the value of the resistor in series with the LED. This will calculate the current consumption for each LED. Note that while the total current consumption shouldn't exceed 200mA, the total current consumption per pin shouldn't exceed 20mA. In fact, for the pro-micro, the recommended per pin limit is 10mA.
If you need to drive some additional current, the solution is to isolate the signal from driving the LEDs. Using a darlington array (like a ULN2003) is a simple solution. Then upgrade the dc supply with a buck regulator like this, and adjust the output to 5V(or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version) , and connect the output directly to the Arduino's 5V rail (or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version).

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have found this option for a 12v battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Phosphate-Rechargeable-Self-discharge-Replacement/dp/B07Q7FY8CC

Which would then require a charger as well...

Or this option for a boost regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-90483-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00C4QVTNU

I think I will try the later, based on this guy's YouTube explanation: https://youtu.be/jLia59KfkSw


Thanks!

I don't see an efficiency rating, but something like this would give you a little leeway in terms of voltage. You set the output via potentiometer and it will maintain that voltage (to a within a certain deviation from your input). Max current 4a so you're set there. Your solar panel is pretty low output too so you may be able to get away with running just the voltage regulator, though I really don't know the implications of that.

Whatever drive you get, if you are getting a 2.5" and need it to fit in your iMac make sure you buy a Icy Box, other adaptors or brackets will mean that your connectors are too far from the drive or the screw holes and mounting points won't match up. The Icy Box will make sure its identical to a 3.5" drive.

Source: Having to open my computer up 3 times to try and get the right fit! Not fun!

hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.

amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

​

on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.

​

as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used

https://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE

Use 100's of these at my work. Easiest and best option in my opinion.

This is what I use: sorry on my mobile.
Get it before you go. It's 200$ on Amazon.jp.co lol Japan. But fucking love it here. This goofy over priced island nation. (Learn to read katakana and hiragana before you come it will be the biggest help) I still can't read much kanji 10 years later.... You can work on that later.


https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524007422&sr=8-2&keywords=japan+transformer

I am looking for the same thing but I couldn't find one so I'm going to make one out of a few 18650 batteries and one of these: XCSOURCE 5 pcs 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I17Fyb5D8CDC7

It does require some sodering and I haven't done it yet so idk how well it will work. For a pi 3 it will probably require a couple other things to regulate the voltage and such but there are probably some guides that can explain it better

Ditto to this. I've become the unofficial photographer for my cohort and school because of the quality of my camera on my phone.

I also brought a video camera that has stayed in my bag 95% of the time since I've gotten here. It's just easier to carry a phone around rather than a camera and a phone.

Also, a surge protector and battery bank will be lifesavers even if your site has electricity. It might not be reliable. The ones below are great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPHHNDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gS5BCbD71A92S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nU5BCbRJQE4R3

Also, seasonings and snacks...lots of seasonings and snacks...

I brought my 3DS! Cambodia uses 220v power, and the 3DS requires 120v, so if you're going to plug it into the wall, you'll need a voltage converter. I brought this one and it has been great. Your other option is to only charge it via USB cord through your computer, or through an external battery pack.

As far as Cambodian outlets go, 2-pronged American or European plugs will fit in any outlet. This is what my outlet (and most outlets) looks like. If you've got 3 pronged things, you'll need a 3-to-2 adapter. I plug the above mentioned converter into my wall (two pronged), and then plug my power strip into that (3 pronged), so I have plenty of outlets for 3 pronged things. If you're planning to travel outside Cambodia, one of those international adapters would be handy.

I don't know if your Sony battery charger has a voltage Convertor (transformer) built in but this is what many people don't realize when they travel. A plug adapter to fit a US plugs into a foreign socket isn't enough. You also need to convert the power coming from the foreign socket (usually 220-230volt) down to the US standard of 110v. I used this when I was traveling and it worked wonderfully. Apple chargers typically already have the Convertor built into the small white brick/cube that plugs into the wall which would explain why your able to charge your phone.

If your Sony battery charger does have a Convertor built in or you're using one with the plug adapter and its still not working, you might need to charge via a USB from your apple plug or possibly charge through the USB cable from your computer. Don't know why it would stop working if using a power Convertor though.

I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465745826&sr=8-5&keywords=step+down+power+converter

it works well.

Just remember you have to set it up to convert properly with some jumper on the back. I forgot at first and was lucky the piece of gear didn't fry, though less than 220 is safer than more than 120 in terms of conversion

Even a 9V will run out of juice eventually, unless you're talking rechargeable. You could also just buy rechargeable AAAs.

Back of the envelope calculations for average alkaline batteries - 9V batterries have ~5.085Wh, 3 AAA's have ~2.58Wh. To step 9V to 3.5V (3 AAAs in series), you'll have efficiency losses in the best case of ~80% with a buck regulator or 4.068Wh and the worst case with a linear regulator (3.5/9) = ~38.9% => 1.98Wh. So in the best case you'll get a 4.068/2.58 = ~1.58x increase in battery life with a 9V, for the added cost of a buck regulator.

Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.

Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.

Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.

Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)

I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.

It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.

Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.

Remote turn on module: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/


LOC converter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

The Apple II has a composite video output - but you need an RF modulated signal for your tv. So, you can take the composite video signal to an RF modulator, like this one. If your television doesn't have a coaxial antenna input, you'll also need an antenna matching transformer, like this one.

Speakers:

NHT SuperOne 2.1/ Super Zero 2.1

JBL 530 (if you can find it), if not JBL 230

Martin Logan 15


Amp:

SMSL SA98

AudioSource Amp100vs


Sub:

Martin Logan Dynamo 300 (and other models)

SVS PB/SB 1000

SVS PB/SB 2000

You might need this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/
To use a sub that doesn't have speaker level ins.

Any of these combos would work very well. I would prob. Get the Martin Logan 15s and the AudioSource, and the Dynamo 300 (or one of the SVS if you can afford it).

oh dang I actually even had that in my other thread, but I guess I must've not copied it!

I have a boost converter like this one, should that do?

To get longer battery life, can I hook a bunch of charged LiPo cells up in parallel? I've heard of something like, unbalanced cells messing each other up.

You need a 300 to 75 ohm matching transformer, (also called a balun), attach it to the VHF terminals, (not UHF), and turn the TV to either channel 3 or 4, (whatever you set your box to output on).

The iView 3500STBII is excellent for this, as it has a physical 3/4 switch in the back, and it's as simple as setting a VCR. Run your aerial into the "Antenna IN" port to the STB, and hook up a short lead of coax between "OUT TO TV" and your balun. Turn on the TV, and turn on the box. Set it up like normal

pot adjustable buck converters, for projects that have a constant power source, they work great.

but like i said i haven't tested them with batteries at all.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y3OT6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You would need a soldering iron. You can desolder the av connector and solder it to the pi. Im confused how you want to power it. If you want to power everything off a 5v in you need a dc to dc booster like this to power the screen. Or if you want to power everything off 12v like the monitor needs you can use something like this. The pi needs about 2amp to run so just check how much the screen needs (its on the back sticker) to figure out your input

Get one of these friend, much better than any keyboard that has a volume knob.

I bought one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E140XWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I was able to charge my phone, wife's 5x, and her laptop without any issues.

Also, get Google Fi while you're abroad. My wife and I had a pretty good experience with it in Europe and Africa last year.

http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451395262&sr=8-1&keywords=simran

This is the one I am using with the Roku 3. Works just fine - tons of power outages where I live and its held up perfectly with a surge protector.

That's what I'm starting to lean toward, yeah. I'm looking into 18650 lithium ion batteries for the first time. I'd hate to have this much circuit for something that seems so simple to me, but here's what I've got:

Switching LM2596 power supply to take 9 - 40V down to 5V

TE420 lithium battery charger

18650 flat top battery 2500mAh

5V 2A boost supply

Those things all put together basically form a 5V battery pack with the option to charge with 9 - 40VDC.

What do you think?

How about this one? It's priced pretty well too compared to the foreign models. It doesn't have a microwave though. Otherwise:

1. If you just want to use superheated steam, buy a pressure cooker or use a spray bottle or a tray full of water with your normal oven, depending on what you're making.
   
   
2. If you're set on importing one of those, buy a voltage converter. Looks like everything is under 1500W.
   
   

From what I've seen, Mausberry has sold out of the car power supply switches. I get the feeling they've moved onto new stuff and won't be making more of them, but I'd be okay with being wrong about that.

I have that same TFT touchscreen thing, and am looking to put it together in my car as well (though I may use an /r/ODroid C1 instead of an RPi, but that's another discussion).

From a different online discussion of Pi Carputers (don't have a link handy, if I find it, I'll edit it in later), I found a 12V to 5V USB power converter (here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/) which can provide always-on or switched power.

There are several discussions of using GPIO to cue the RPi to gracefully shut itself off, especially on StackExchange (http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/). There's just a lot of homework to do here.

I can't for the life of me find the exact heater, but this one is pretty close. The main difference being that mine is a 300W.

https://www.amazon.ca/Metro-Japanese-kotatsu-Heater-Warmer/dp/B000BK47A8/ref=pd_sbs_79_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BK47A8&pd_rd_r=87eec204-2e55-11e9-88a1-f3496d10471d&pd_rd_w=3MzX7&pd_rd_wg=3Sa0h&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ&psc=1&refRID=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ

And this is the transformer I have. As you can see in the description, it suggests a 3x the wattage transformer.

https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=pd_sim_79_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PC4JL4&pd_rd_r=9c0a0209-2e55-11e9-bd47-6589b5dff133&pd_rd_w=ADOJQ&pd_rd_wg=9U9u4&pf_rd_p=29a85b27-a36a-4f8d-94ca-61aa962c5f39&pf_rd_r=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04&psc=1&refRID=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04

Do you have any power near your rearview?

My car doesnt have the optional compass/map light/powered rearview, but the power leads are there, so I just tapped into them, and added one of these

Now the camera(G1W-C, in my case) is right next to the mirror, and just powers on/off with the iginition.

The G1W-C isnt meant to run without a connected power source - just long enough to finish writing out to the flash card when power goes away.

I got mine from Foxoffer, and it seemed to be a pretty straightforward transaction.

Are you just talking about the adapter? If so, there's not much profit on them since they're like $2-3 at most.

Actually, you can get 6 for $5.45 with free prime shipping
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0084OPT8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520185474&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=us+to+europe+plug+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41nK2NuYwSL&ref=plSrch

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520821216&sr=8-5&keywords=volume%2Bcontrol%2Bknob&th=1

I personally have a Dac/Amp for my headphones and a separate audio interface for my speakers, but most people probably aren't looking to spend a good 100 bucks on audio equipment.

I'm not sure if I completely understand the zener regulators but it seems to me as though the power consumption of simple one is going to be wildly high with such a large difference between input and output voltages.

Perhaps if I can ensure the voltage does not jump too high and the current demands are low enough one of these switching regulators will work well: https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-swadj3

Too bad they're fairly pricey.

Edit: Better yet something like this: http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO

These are great and they're cheap enough that you won't cry if you leave one at the airport. Bring extras.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084OPT8C/

These were personally tested with my iPad adapter in the Charles de Gaulle airport.

Most home theater devices, receivers especially, are NOT dual voltage. I am in the US military and am currently overseas so dual voltage electronics are very important to me. I found an international version of Yamaha's Aventege series, called the RX-V2067 and it has a nice little voltage selector switch. Back to your question, it is going to be very hard to find a dual voltage home theater system for $400. My solution to your issue: just buy a transformer (like this one).

I used this step down electric adapter to make sure my charger did not get overloaded.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Samsung Note 4 has WIFIi calling which I used in Vietnam. I did not have to get a sim card because I could always find wifi when I needed to. For instance, I mostly messaged people, posted photos, or called when I was back in my hotel. However buying a sim card on the fly is very easy to do too.

Physics doesn't care what you have on hand, 10W+ from USB just isn't going to happen.

These aren't too big and SLA is by far the cheapest route. It would run the Pi and screen for hours on a charge.

Run the Pi on something like this.

I'd wire it to a lighter plug and then have a socket connected to the battery, that way you could just unplug it and plug it into the car.

Just buy a cheap universal adapter(with good reviews though). You don't need a transformer for a laptop or phone charger.


something like this

I recommend something like this as you also need to convert the voltage if your electronics are purchased in and for America:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSTG93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dont do this, you may still fry the box, you need to get a stepdown converter, it will plug into your wall then step down your 220v to 110v, it will also help protect your box a little more if you get a power surge.

Source: multiple deployments with xbox 360

Edit: Here is an example on amazon

You need a plug adapter and depending on what you’re plugging in, a voltage converter you can get both here. Some things like most laptops don’t need the voltage converter. Other things like hair dryers do, so research what you want to plug in and whether you should use the voltage converter or not.

There are two differences between Belgium and the US in terms of electricity:

• Belgium uses 220v 50 Hz AC, the US 110v 60 Hz^1
  
  
• The socket looks different between the countries (Belgium vs the US)
  
  
  If it is only for 8 days, I assume the items that you would carry that need a charge is your mobile phone/laptop charger and may be an electric shaver.
  
  Most modern phone/laptop chargers are compatible with a range of voltages that covers both these: they have a "Universal Voltage Range" and are generally marked as 100-220 v, 50-60Hz (Like this) . You can use these in belgium without a voltage converter. But you would need an "adapter" so that you can use the US plug in a Belgian socket. I would suggest one of these. You will be able to find this in a local electronic store as well (Fry's, Best Buy...).
  
  Some items, especially Electric shavers generally do not support both 220 volts and 110 volts. You will need a "converter" to convert between the voltage ranges. Something like this. However note that you may need a higher power (watts) converter if you are planning to use a higher power item (say an electric drill).
  
  I would suggest to avoid the converter altogether if you can (do not use an electric shaver). that way you can avoid carrying the bulky/more expensive converter, which anyway will not be of much use when you come back.
  
  ^1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
  
  Edit: Added an image for a universal charger.

I have a Skross since ages, works well and very sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Skross-Travel-Adapter-2-pole-Charger/dp/B00E4GF2TU

​

Before that I had a similar looking one but much cheaper, generic brand, you could feel it was much more fagile and poorly built. Tt burnt in South Africa when I plugged it into the wall lol. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E140XWA/

I picked this up back in early 2017 and it's been great. it can handle having many things plugged into it, so you only really need it, plus your regular electronincs/cords.

it's got a fan built into it, which can be good for whitenoise, but also can be annoying if you really like total quiet.

The shape of the plug is different because the receiver uses 220/240 volts instead of the United States standard 110 volts, so you can't just get an adapter to plug it into a standard outlet. Assuming you don't want to rewire your wall outlet to put out 220 volts, you'd have to use some form of step up transformer like this to get the proper voltage.

Definitely this. There would have been an aerial uhf/vhf antenna on the roof, it used 300 ohm flat two wire cable to connect to these leads, old TVs connected.directly or you could get a.converter to go to 75ohm coaxial

Like this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY&ved=2ahUKEwikgdXFjbvjAhVBxFQKHRiAD_YQFjABegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2ePM00Y7EX6FfrOxxeXz6w&cshid=1563337387146

If it is a charger made to plug into an auto cigarette lighter, It is rated for the lead acid voltages. Even during charging of the lead acid battery.

A better solution to have a balance draw from the 24V, is to use a step down converter. You can google for others.

Your fridge won't run long on that battery via an inverter, mate. That being said, you can buy a dc-dc step-down converter like this to push down the voltage to 12V then use car/solar accessories.

You'll definitely have enough power to have light, mobile recharge, etc.

You could even use a step-up converter and charge your battery using solar panels.

Add a fuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/

You will also need a 12v to 5v converter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/

12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.

5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.

Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.

One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)

Australia uses different voltage and plug types, so you'll either need to get something and take it with you, or buy something while you're there.

I Just got back from a family vacation in Australia. I bought this before I went:

BESTEK Portable International Travel Voltage Converter 220V to 110V with Interchangeable Worldwide UK/US/AU/EU Plugs + 4 USB(6A Max) Charging Ports for iPhone, iPad, Samsung, Tablet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_nuF-wb72SHF4C

It worked out perfectly for charging my MacBook via the AC, and then multiple mobile devices via USB.

Step 1: Understand how voltage, current, and power draw work. You clearly don't at the moment.

Step 2: You could try something like this, it at least claims to have the oomph you're after.

https://smile.amazon.com/Gowoops-10-32V-Converter-Adjustable-Voltage/dp/B01GRIQBRY

Hello! I'm currently working on a monitor made from an old screen from an old broken laptop. I've elected not to worry myself with a battery for improved portability (I can do that another time if I want to), but I do want some way to give the screen speakers. However, I also don't want to power those speakers with a separate USB cable and I would prefer to power them using the same cable as the screen: a 12V 3A cable.

For the first version of the speakers, I was going to connect the extracted speakers from the laptop to this 5V powered Amplifier board with a Volume Adjuster and then connect it to this Micro USB-B Breakout Board to enable me to power the speakers using a standard Micro USB-B cable and make the speakers removable in case I want to upgrade them at some point.

My theory for powering them is using a female port for 12V and 3A to take 12V and 3A from the cable and then splitting it into 5V USB output for the speakers and 12V for the control board of the monitor. I was intending on either using two of these Boost Converters, or just one of them and the internals of a Car-USB port.

I'm quite new to electronics though and I'm worried that this won't actually work for some reason that I haven't considered. Could somebody point out any issues they can see with this?

100v transformers are fairly cheap on Amazon and a good investment if you want to get further into Japanese computers (do it!).

I use one of these for my HB-101: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_1?

Get a 12v -> 5v inverter and connect it to the cigarette lighter port (hack an already existing one?). It'll power up and down with car ignition. Make it automatically join your home wifi network, and sync folders when it joins that network, and expect it'll do that every time you pull into the garage, and let it idle for a minute to ensure upload has completed.

This sort of thing exists if it's helpful - just make sure it can handle whatever power you plan to pump into it. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

This is what I ultimately bought. So far it's working great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

you can try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496634862&sr=1-14&keywords=POWER+CONVERTER


but you really need to do some research on the specific power needs of your slow cooker and the Chinese power grid to know specifically what you need... or buy on from a country that uses 220.



-Chinese power grid facts 220V 50Hz



-US Power grid facts 120V 60Hz



-Slow cooker need to knows(look for a sticker with numbers like 120V ~ 60Hz ~ 275W

-voltage range covered - this is the number or number range followed buy the V for those that dont know

-Frequency range covered - this is the Hz number or number range - i am unsure what effect using a cooker meant only for 60Hz on 50Hz will have but it will most likely not heat correctly or track time correctly

-Wattage of the cooker - this is the number followed by the W - very important if you get a converter as it needs to be able to handle around 50% more then the wattage of the cooker or you can overload the converter

Look at the power supply on your computer. Chances are that it can handle 100V/50Hz input just as well as 120V/60z (as most power adapters can).

So, you'll just need a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter.

If you're really worried about it, get a converter like this: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4 (just watch total load)
You could buy it ahead of time or once there. I don't know about Hokkaido, but they can easily be found in Tokyo.

Not always. Most cheap (1-2 euros if you know where to look) adapters are just physical, they only change the shape of the cable so it can be plugged in. Like this. To convert voltages you'll need something like this, which is more expensive and bulky.

US mains electricity is only slightly higher voltage than Japanese mains electricity so you should be able to use a Japanese system in North America without a step-down transformer (and many do).

If you really wanted to confirm the power supply can handle the slightly higher voltage you'd need to look at the PCB, as the back of the console will only indicate 100V. This one is rated at 85V-132V, for example, so would work fine in Japan or North America. You'd need to check your own power supply though to see what it could handle.

Otherwise they do sell step-down transformers like this but it could well be unnecessary.

Don't give up so fast. If you're feeling adventurous, try buying a line-out converter. Typically these are used for car stereo systems. Not sure how they will affect the impedance of the speakers and I can't guarantee that they won't blow your amp, but logically it's possible.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W or something else like it

Ah makes sense, thanks for all the info!

So from a full day of research here's what I'm thinking:


2M of RBGW SK6812

Splitting them into 12 - 6 inch long strips. (Probably only use 6-8 but figured better to have more than not enough)

Battery power through 7.5A fuse (the strip is rated at 43W/m at 5V the next fuse is 10A so figured go lower to be safer?) and relay/switch tapped to ACC line run through 12v step down to 5v through ALITOVE bluetooth controller into wago connectors with diodes going to each strip



https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B079ZX7LY3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539729680&sr=8-2&keywords=rgbw%2Bsk6812&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Female-Connector-WS2812B-SK6812-RGBW/dp/B071H5XCN5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539737420&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+connector+3+pin

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539736197&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+step+down+to+5v

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Controller-SK6812-RGBW-Programmable/dp/B07G77YD9L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539734109&sr=8-1&keywords=12v++SK6812


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107SYYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Travel charger !!! This is a good one https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

I've used these with success, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qxBpzb6P6QZ4N

Here are a couple more that accomplish the same thing, reducing High Speaker Level down to Low Line Level signal -

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-LOC90-Line-Output-Converter/dp/B00YEU8T96/

Connect the wires to the speaker terminals and the RCA outs to the Active Speakers.

Hey,

My wife has me on this mission as well, she has two hair tools (one is like a stick, one is the clamping thing) both are 110-240v 50-60hz. If I buy this item, can I just plug them into it, then it into the wall, and be fine (I know both can't be used at the same time, but i assume the dual voltage indicator on both items means they are made precisely for this application). I just don't want her blowing them up then being sad. We will also be in Italy later in the month and I figure it should work the same way there as well?


She also has a blow dryer but its 110v (so non dual?) and I don't think that is safe to plug into a UK/EU outlet (Becasue they push 220v?).



Lastly, with this item, at night time can we let say use the 2 USB slots for our phones and the one AC/plug slot for our laptop no problem?


Thanks!

Adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=415R88TWPH12KEZNPHYC

You don't just need a plug, you need a voltage converter. Canada uses 110V AC at 60 Hz. Pakistan uses 230V AC at 50 Hz. So you need a converter that will turn 230V 50Hz Pakistani current into 110V 60Hz for your Canadian devices.

Additionally, this converter also needs to come with a plug that fits into Pakistani wall sockets.

You also need to check how much power draw your appliances have. You mentioned cell phones, laptops and cameras. None of these draw a lot of power, so you could probably make do with a 200 watt converter like this one. It only has one socket, but you could probably buy a 3-way adaptor and run your laptop plus charge two phones at the same time.

There are many other adaptors available at this page so you can look around and see what suits you. Basically, you want one that says "worldwide" and has a C/D type plug which is the standard in Pakistan.

Other than that, just count the wattage. Figure on how many appliances you want to use simultaneously and add up their wattage to determine the power of the converter you will need. Read the reviews and pick one that has good reviews.

Don't plan on running any heavy duty appliances with it, such as clothes irons or blow dryers or anything like that. You will destroy your converter. These things are only meant for small electronics.

Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.

Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0

Check this out

This is very close to what I've was working on for a very long while and gave up. I just don't have the programming kung fu. I would love to get back on it as I've got the hardware down just the damn programming kicked my but.

here is a picture of what I trying to achieve.

the ramp and the numerical display

and I just wanted to press a button to toggle between the different sensors. I sorta got the ramps working but I couldn't get programmed how to get the ramps to show different sensors at a button push.

Maybe we can work together or maybe a peak at your code to give me a hint on how to proceed.

Edit: by the way after calulating the amp draw I decided to use one of these to power the sensor as it's more stable and cleaner for my install needs.

I own a transformer and it wasn't cheap but this product linked by someone else in this thread sounds rather interesting.

I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy or build (only if you know your AC wiring) a step-down transformer. The ratio of turns should be 2:1, so the output voltage will be half of the input voltage; 115V. I am assuming since you say 230V that you live in EU/UK/etc, so it will be 115Vac at 50 Hz, not 60 like in the US. Either way, if the amplifier's power supply is a standard linear one, the mains frequency shouldn't matter too much. Be absolutely sure that the fuse is the only thing you damaged when your brother hooked it up to 230V.

edit: Something like [this](http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter- Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E994NKEG6RBTZVPTAHJ) should work. If you want to move away from having an external transformer do all the work, you'll have to do some more research.

Such things do exist, but I think it's better to avoid them since it's likely to degrade the sound quality due to unnecessary components in the chain. Also, most of them are made for car audio, where quality standards often aren't as good.

EDIT: Looking at the service manual, it appears the Toshiba has a DIN socket. This is probably a line-level output since I understand that connector was used a lot on European gear. If that's what it is, it can be converted to RCA line-level with a cable like this or this. This is a much better option than using the speaker-level to line-level converter.

Could help. I'd try making sure it's pointed almost straight east first, since that's where most of your signals should be coming from, and seeing if you get any signal from NBC.


Also if you have a Stereo with an antenna input you can get one of these doohikeys and connect it to that roof antenna for extra reception.

Edit: Forgot, we had an issue similar to this in my old house. One of our TVs would not pick up a certain channel. I think it was either NJN or maybe ABC, can't remember now. Every other TV would get it and have quite high signal strength but that TV would see no signal at all. It did have an extra maybe 30ft of wire from my TV to that TV and that wire was very very old so that could have played a part but it was only 1 channel that it lost which is so bizarre. Never could figure out why, we even hooked up another indoor antenna with no luck.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG

this one is cheaper, and I believe that other one might not be supported on win 10

You can do that but maybe use a high to line level converter (PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W) first? Don't want to blow the active sub with too much voltage to line in.

Yes. I've done it. My 2008 Mac Pro is still a monster of a machine! I got an Icy Dock which lets you mount a 2.5 inch drive in the Mac Pro's hard drive bays.

http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE

Once you've got an SSD, just clone (Carbon Copy Cloner) your existing boot drive to the SSD and then swap the drive or put the SSD in one of the three other bays.

As for SSD choice, I'll defer to the other more knowledgeable redditors about that. :)

I'm in the same boat, except I just got a PS4 Pro. So would something [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K2V701A9Q3DRDEMTJYNM) allow it to work well (and safely) in China?

How would something like this fair for a stepdown converter" https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4

Not sure if that's a cheap brand or not, but I guess i should pick one up sooner or later, just for securities sake

USB outputs 5v, that is probably what these were designed to be used for, powered by USB.

The specs say 0.3W per led, the description says "150 pixels" and I'm guessing that means 150 LED's, so that's 45W per strip, but that seems like a LOT for USB.

You could use a 12v->5v step-down transformer to reduce the 12V voltage down to 5V but that one only handles 3 amps.

I can't find a link to the one I have, but it's something like this.

Ahhhh right okay. So how comes you suggested the 7805 instead of a buck step down? Would this be fine?

If you want to retain stock & just install a sub and amp it's a simple job.

You just need to purchase a 2 channel line converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3YN5tb0KVS0G4

After that just split that converter into one of your rear speakers. Use the RCA's and plug it into your mono amp and your all good.

I'm assuming you know how to power your amp & hook up your sub to your amp.

its called a line level converter, and the type they sell for cars will work fine. should be able to get it easily in any car audio shop.

or:

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

I am buying a couple 220V/240V essential oil diffusers, pretty small, you think this will work?
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/

You'll need a line out converter. I used this LOC and haven't had any problems with it just make sure to properly ground it out. Then I used some Quick Splice/T-Taps to tap into the Rear Left Speaker (positive and negative) and Rear Right Speaker (positive and negative) at the back of the head unit. And wallah you got your RCA outputs

I have traveled to Ireland, Iceland, UK, Netherlands, Vietnam, Costa Rica, Italy, Dominican Republic, and the Cayman Islands with the travel power adapter listed below. I highly recommend.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542337409&sr=8-4&keywords=travel+power+adapter

I had seen this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where they specify that damage could occur if used at less than 10% load (which at a design load of 1 amp an esp8266 would be pulling ~3-6% of an amp most of the time). Unfortunately I just realized that neither of these are what I need as I forgot that my source is 24 vac rather than vdc. I could rectify it but am trying to avoid an having circuits upon circuits in my design atm. Thanks anyway for pointing that one out. that's good info for future projects.

This thing is the most efficient way to do it

This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.

This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.

Where is this shit made? If Europe you need a step up converter. Anyway play safe and if you are unsure just get a converter. Check the power draw and typically you can use a power strip to get more outlets. I use a US step down to Japanese for some Japanese arcade cabs and step up for Amiga cd32. All else fails rtfm, they usually have power specs.

Something like this is nice to have around
https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK

I've done this before. The trick is finding a slim monitor with an external power supply as mentioned already. The ones I've come across run on 19v.

Then it's as simple as wiring up a step up converter and adjusting it to 19v out.

Here's the one I used
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRIQBRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dGcYBbWS76NDN


That said it's also really easy to buy a small $20 inverter and not have to deal with all that

I like using 12V switch mode PSU units for my gadgets. They're cheaper and expandable for other purposes. The PI is 5V if I'm not mistaken. You'd need to step the voltage down to 5V.

Check out these links:

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/5v-power-supply

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/7913/powering-a-pi-from-12v

So this thing?

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4

Are there any other new parts I would need to buy to use it? Sorry for the probably dumb questions but like I said I'm very new to all this.

Don't be sorry for the wall of text, that link was very helpful.

I'm giving up on the RGBW and going with standard RGB for the time being.

If I go with one of the Magic Home RGB controllers, they state they can go all the way up to 12v, although I'd probably rather run 5v to it. I could get this step-down (as the article suggest) with this power supply. Or can the Magic Home take 12v no problem?

Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY

And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.

If you've got a good power supply the pi will be able to run the arduino. You'll still need a power supply for your stepper. If done properly you could use a 12V to 5V step down converter and run the entire thing from the 12V supply.

If you're this far into a project already why are you just now asking about power requirements? This should have been the very first thing you addressed.

Most PSU fans won't run all the time, and there probably won't be enough airflow over the stuff that needs it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lEJZAbQ7GGQP4

One of those in line to the small fans will let you adjust the voltage and find a speed that's a good compromise between noise and cooling.

I use lipo's with these. Provides protection and an easy way to charge them.

As for your adapter question: Austria and Belgium both use the standard Euro plug. I just take a simple adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0084OPT8C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485976494&sr=8-9&keywords=european+adapter

For powering devices... I don't take any adapters. If I'm already schlepping the laptop, why not just use the USB ports on the laptop to charge the devices overnight. So I just take my Laptop + Laptop charging brick. At night I plug it in, and plug my devices into the USB slots.

A powerbank isn't a bad idea however if you are worried about extended periods away from an outlet... but remember the laptop has a battery...which mean you have at least 4-5 hours worth of charge with you whenever you have it. Again... use IT as the powerbank.

I did an amazon search for you: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=24v%20to%2012v%20step%20down%20converter

The first one would be fine.

Set the TV to VHF Channel 3 or 4 and run whatever you want through a demodulator (just like you used to do with your game consoles). You might need a coax to antenna adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/r

Thanks now I finally understand.

When searching "volume control knob" I've stumbled upon this. Is that what you're looking for?

It's also available without the audio switch but you might want to have that too, at least I'd prefer that extra functionality.

Ok, so something like this? 12v input into cigarette port connect to 12v input of module and 12v output of module connect to 12v neutral wire coming from cigarette port? Then 5v output on module goes to dashcam wire?

edit*

Yes, there are devices that do that.

I bought this off of amazon and it works ok. I don't use it as much as I was using it in Turkey but haven't had problems so far (almost one year later).