(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power converters

I don’t have WiFi so I’m not going to google search, but I’d be willing to bet google or amazon would have the car plug adapter for mobile ih.
As far as 18650, all I know is it can be done, and without TOO much effort.
With the box I’ve made, I’m going to add a bottom compartment that can be latched on to the bottom, and hold 4 18650’s which should be tons of use.

My best recommendation is YouTube, google, amazon/eBay for parts and going to the forum f***combustion , google search that forum, they have a huge thread on induction diy, as well as vapcap stuff, and there is a user there named pipes, he will sell you ready to go fully built portable and tabletop setups that are legit and very reasonably priced. Building my own I saved maybe 40 bucks, however his are better than what I’m able to cobble together, and for a true portable I’ll be going to him for his Portside mini as it’s the best.
Good luck my guy, I’m in the same boat.

Just order an induction driver with coil, a psu, and a switch of some sort.

SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage Switching ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Module + Coil Power Supply heating power supply module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rWzBCb6KE502R

Out of stock but that’s what I got, there are other sellers it’s all the same unit.

EPBOWPT AC 100-240V to DC 12V 6A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNW1CNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This psu works just fine for me, AND it comes with the adapter you will NEED to plug this all into the wall
ESUPPORT Heavy Duty 20A 125V 15A...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWWZ0GK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This switch is for cars, and rated at 20a.
It’s overkill, but my understanding is a higher amp rated switch removes the need for a mofset which I didn’t wana really wore up. You can also use a momentary switch, so it’s only on if you press it down, but the spring keeps it set at “off” but they aren’t rated at 20a and you will need a mofset.

I just got a wood box and used my drill stuff to make the holes, and hot glue to seal the box so I can open it op fairly easily for repairs and upgrades

> Oh, yeah, you bought a boost (step-up) converter. I may do a review of those, if there is interest.

Did you buy the buck converters for you test for $7-$8 each on Amazon? You can find all of the buck converters in Chinese shops too 1 2(5 pieces, a cheaper single one could probably be found too) 3 4

Looks like the Amazon shops also bought them in China, the names (Drok, Smakn, Ailavi) are just the names of the corresponding Amazon seller.
I also have one of the USB buck converters which you called Ailavi, it works much better than the boost converter (which is sold on Amazon too). I just don't know where I put it last so I could check if it reaches the same efficiency as the module which you have.
So if you want to test boost converters the ones which are shipped from China are most likely the same but much cheaper. There are also other ones available than the 40cent blue one

> PS: How do you like your Rigol o-scope? I've been thinking of getting one.

If you don't want to buy a used scope or can't find used scopes for a reasonable price the DS1054 (with the 100MHz 'hack') is probably still the best way to go for a <$1000 scope. I have mine for about a year now and I can recommend it, only the FFT is crappy.

> EDIT: Looks like this guy did a review of your 40-cent chinese made boost converter: http://www.rei-labs.net/cheap-ebay-boost-module-comparison-and-performances-5v-from-one-or-two-batteries/ -- Looks as bad as you discovered.

He tested it up to 200mA, that's a output current where it can (almost) reach the 5V, but these blue boost ones are sold being sold with the promise to be capable of up to 600mA at the output. But since it doesn't even work at 500mA it's not useful to charge most devices at all or they will charge really slowly, maybe ok if one needs 5V for a micro controller or so with a smaller current.

> adding an LCD volt meter directly to the battery so i can see the voltage,

Why? It's gonna read 12V. It would be a lot easier to write "12V" on a sticker and slap it on there, and it would do the same job.

But if you really want to it would be pretty easy to do. You can buy LCD voltmeter panels; they are really common in process engineering. Most will measure up to 600 V or so.


> where a guy used a car charger adapter thing to accomplish this

There's a 12V to 5V converter built into that. They are pretty small, so they fit in there. That's what I meant when I said you can buy one in the grocery store. You can also get the naked chip. In fact I bought this last month and it's worked great. Turns any voltage from 8 to 22 volts into a USB charging port. The same guy also sells this which seems to be tailor made for you.

> I also need to determine the best AWG size that will easily handle any potential loads

AWG refers to the size of the conductor (the copper). The AWG size is dependent on the current you need to handle, not the voltage. A wire will also have a voltage rating, which refers to the size of the insulator around the copper. For reading a voltage (any voltage) you will have next to no current, so the smallest AWG you can find will work, as long as the insulation is sufficient.

24 V is a tiny amount of voltage; I think any wire you find will be able to handle that. Standard wires are generally rated to 400V at least, often 600.

> I think for current I would need to get into series between the battery and the UPS circuits?

Yes, that's right.

Making a simple but effective IH is so cheap and easy every Dynavap owner should do it.

IH instructions:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper


https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op


Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)

It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.

Edit: blasting:

I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

Everything out there is a rip off. It is stupidly easy to DIY something that performs just as good for half the price. And DIY has the added benefit of flexible modularity.

For example that Anker panel is $140 for 15 watts. That is insane! Full sized solar panels are under $1 per watt and you should never pay more than $2 per watt for small panels.

Shop around for a cheap normal solar panel. Since this is apartment based you can save money and go for the bulkier panels. For example here is a 50 watt panel for $70. It measures about 2' on a side and weighs 9 pounds. Just small enough that if you need to bail by car you can bring it with you.

Next you need a DC-DC regulator. These take many forms and determine how flexible your system will be. The simplest option is to get a 5V regulator which will be able to provide juice for all of your USB based items. There are fancier regulators with voltage and current adjustment but it sounds like these aren't for you.

Then get a high powered USB hub or maybe 2. That hub can only do 20 watts max. The panel and regulator I linked can do 50W. This gives you headroom on overcast days but it is also a waste on bright sunny days.

> but I'm not sure how I'd use something like that to charge batteries such as 18650's or AA's as those chargers don't have USB connections

Those chargers do have USB if you buy the right chargers. For example the Lii-500 does NiMH and li-ion all from micro-usb.

Another option is to get a 12V regulator and also connect that to the panel. There are a lot of chargers that run from 12V DC.

edit: I forgot about the connectors! These are good for low-power DIY.

You'll need a 5v regulator to charge your phone. If you've got a extra battery tray lying around this buck convertor will do the trick. But it would probably be easier to hit up walmart and pick up a small portable battery bank. I've got a few that are about the size of a 26650 cell and say there 2400mah. You might even be able to find them at a dollar store but there quality may be a bit more dubious.

When looking for 26650's these are the only ones you should concern yourself with. All mooch's recommended 26650s and hes the best person to trust when it comes to batteries. Canvape usually has the best price on batteries in Canada. Otherwise if your cool ordering from the US hit up illumn or lightningvapes

AWT Yellow 75A 4500mAh
Basen Black 4500mAh
Brillipower Green 80A 4500mAh
Efest Green 20A 4200mAh
MXJO Yellow 35A 3500mAh

Thanks for all the great info! I stumbled on Will's repo when I was reading through issues on github. So I had pulled and built that one already. Turns out that using solid core wire was the fix for my rs485 issues. I'm finally up and running!

​

I used a 5V/3A converter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE6QN4U) to power the pi from the 24V AC at the thermostat (wires C and D). It powered the pi fine and ran without saying it was throttled. But would almost always timeout in the rs485 communications. I tried running my rs485 ground to a ground on the gpio, just in case. No luck there. I tried tying that ground with the ground on my power adapter too. Still no luck. I tested with the multimeter and it's giving a solid 5.01V DC from the 27.3V AC source, but I guess it must not be putting out enough amps... I plugged a normal power brick into the wall and tried again, and it all worked fine! Guess I'll need to find a better source for the 24V adapter.

​

Anyway, that killed my night, but I'm going to try and grab your component tomorrow and start tinkering with it. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to giving it a shot!

It depends on where you (i.e. your devices) are coming from. I'll assume USA.

Type F is the most common type of socket you'll find here. It's compatible with type C and E plugs as well.

AC voltage is 230 V at 50 Hz. Almost all portable electronic devices these days are universal (i.e. 100-240 V, 50/60 Hz) but check the label on the power adapter for your device just in case.

SKROSS adapters are the most popular around here and are probably the first ones you would encounter at the airport. They are pricey, versatile and high quality. But any cheap adapter from Amazon will work. Things to consider:

• Size: The most important factor, since you will be dragging it around the world.
  
• Versatility: If you tend to visit multiple countries with different plug types during a single trip, consider an adapter that supports all the types you need. These tend to be bulkier and more expensive so otherwise prefer the simplest, smallest and cheapest ones.
  
• Safety/Insulation: If you need to use high-powered, especially heating devices that lack double insulation, consider buying an adapter with ground connectors. It has the third hole for the Type B US plug and has the metal side connectors of the Type F EU plug. This will protect you from electrocution if your device malfunctions.
  
• Quality: I've had some cheap adapters that have trouble staying in the wall and keep falling out. Read the reviews and see if there are complaints.
  
  Something like this should be fine for any device supporting the local voltage (looks small, safe and durable).
  
  In contrast the cheap-o ones look like this but they are not grounded and often have trouble staying in the wall if you tend to yank the cord of your charger.
  
  If you REALLY need to convert voltage as well, there are step-down converters on Amazon for like $30-50 but they are heavy and a pain to drag along.

http://imgur.com/a/24BVq

The actual installation could have been better, I was in a hurry but it works lol

It's a wireless charger, so I just plop my phone in the dock and I get a nice little trickle charge. I took the dash cam out the other day, but it basically just went up the A-pillar trim and tucked nicely beneath the top of the windshield frame thing.

I used these guys to step down the 12v from the car to an acceptable 5v

I did with my 2012.

I got this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0YASQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and have a single 12" Infinity Reference pushed by an Alpine amp (500 watt @2ohms).
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m500

The best thing about that RCA converter is that it has remote turn on via signal detection, so I didn't have to run a line to the front of the car. It's pretty well the perfect setup for a stock head unit. I had planned on upgrading everything, but the front sound stage with the factory speakers is not too shabby.

You said "subs". Will a dual-sub box fit into the trunk from the back seat? You won't be able to get it in through the trunk! I downsized to a single sub and it sounds great. What equipment are you installing?

DISCLAIMER: Although this might all work, I really am not sure. I am an electrical engineering student, but that is not the same thing as being an electrical engineer.

So what I have found is that a Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge requires 5 to 9 V, 5 V being regular charging and 9 V being fast charging. What you would have to do is buy something like this and hook it up to the outlet. You would also have to cut a phone charging cable and connect the correct wires to the DC-DC converter. Here is a picture of a cut in half usb cable, the only thing you care about is the Vcc (which you can think of as your positive) and ground (which you can think of as negative). If you connect those to the terminals then it should safely charge your phone. I also think that I read the max power transfer to the battery is 15 W, and the converter has a max power transfer of 15 W, which to me is cutting it too close for a phone that expensive haha. Good luck charging your phone, and be safe. 24 V won't kill you but it might hurt like hell if you shock yourself.



Also, like someone said above, do not connect your phone charger base to the power outlet. It most likely has a AC-DC converter in it which also most likely means that it steps down the AC voltage to a lower AC voltage before converting it to DC. But if you run a DC voltage through a transformer, it is really just like running it through a wire and will cause too much current to flow and probably cause you to blow a fuse.

Short answer:

You might want to get a 'sepic' or 'buck/boost' converter that will stabilize the output voltage. This is a model I've used before and worked well for a similar use:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Regulator-Adjustable-Transformer/dp/B06XG2KPTS/

This model also allows current limiting, but please, still use a fuse. :)

​

The Long Reasoning:

If your devices are meant to be charged from a 'wall wart' AC style charger, there's a chance the device may be sensitive to input voltage variation. And since your battery voltage could be anywhere from around 10.5 Volts up to 14.8 volts... that might be a problem and cause damage to your equipment! Usually devices designed to be charged from the 12-volt socket in a vehicle are more forgiving, and often there's nothing more than a fuse inside that 'charger'. (Some don't even have a fuse! D:) But still, some do require very tight voltage regulation.

All that said, you could possibly get away with nothing, or just a fuse and some wire; But converter circuits are cheap now days, especially ones that only need to handle a few amps. And they can be the difference between killing some expensive equipment, and a perfect, efficient charging solution.

Obviously, ensure you have fuses as well both coming from the battery to the converter, and from the converter to the device(s).

​

EDIT: Don't forget low voltage protection, if your system doesn't somehow already have it! Make sure you can't over-discharge your batteries accidentally!

I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
pic

Amp

spectrum analyzer


6.5s

solar panel

buck converter

battery mount



I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker

With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.

Edit: also using this to monitor solar output

If you are using a stock head unit you need a Line Output Converter. You will need to wire it up to get signal from one of your speaker outputs. There are videos for how to install them on youtube. I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1
I have yet to get it to work, but I think I tapped the wrong wires in the factory amp for sound signal.
Once you hooked up you plug RCAs in it and run them to your amp. There is also a remote turn on wire for your amp included in with the Line Output Converter (LOC), so that's a plus. You run a wire to your amps remote terminal from the blue wire on the LOC. This will allow your amp to turn on once the LOC detects audio signal. Next you need to run the power wire from your install kit there (the red one) from your cars battery to the trunk. The last time I hooked up a system in a GM car was in the early 2000s and back then you needed a special adapter to connect it to the battery since they use the side screw on battery terminals. If your battery has posts on top your set. Lastly you need to ground the black wire from your install kit somewhere in the car. It needs to be a bolt connected to the chassis so it can complete the power circuit. You should be able to find one in the trunk. Sand down the paint by the bolt you choose to attach it to and make sure it is extra secure. I know it's not a diagram, but I tried to explain the best I could. You may be missing some parts like an LOC if you use the stock radio, and a battery adapter if you have the side mount battery terminals and no top posts.

Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:

​

https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg

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**Update/Parts List**

Box/Enclosure

Induction heater board w/coil

Glass tube

(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)

Mosfet

Power supply

Red toggle switch

Momentary switch

DC panel-mount jack

Insulated crimp connectors

I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.

​

Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.

​

Total: ~$65 USD

​

TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!

I found this little guy:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/ref=psdc_583328_t2_B07DSBTJ3Z?th=1

• Input voltage: DC8-35V, (12V/24 changes to 5V); Output parameter: DC5V 3A , 15W.
  
• Build-in identification resistor for apple , can charge iphone ipad， Application: use for charging cell phone, power for electronic device etc.
  
• Super-thin, small size, high efficiency, easy installation and use.
  
• Epoxy potting, seismic, water, moisture, dust, long term stable and reliable quality.
  
• Over voltage, over current, over temperature, short circuit, it can be auto protection, and can work in normal condition when restored.
  
  ​
  
  Can you confirm this would work? sorry for all the questions. It *looks* like it fits the parameters but I'd rather be safe than sorry. thanks again!

>Edit:

LOC. I work with these daily. With good results.

Amp kits selection is near infinite, as long as it's OFC, and has decent quality RCAs, it's fine.


>Edit 2:

Wouldn't be my choices, but they'd suffice. Why not consider JL's amp kit? Price?


>Edit 3:

The Rockford badged kit probably has better wire composition. Has a more versatile fuse holder. And better RCAs. As well as being sold as Rockford, and not Lightning.

I had the same problem and my Sony Bravia TV does have a USB port but it’s always on power so it does nothing to trigger the Sync box. I built my own IR controlled micro usb plug with a few parts off amazon (amazingly, nobody makes an IR wall plug) and then I trained my Harmony to send the IR power command during power on and off of each activity. Pretty ridiculous that I’ve had to jump through such hoops when they actually have an IR receiver on the front of the box. I’m hoping a software update will fix this. If anyone is interested, here’s the parts I used to make the IR controlled wall plug:

12V IR Controlled Relay Module

12V to 5V Buck Converter Module

12V Wall Wart

Well, so I just went with getting off the shelf LED strips from Amazon; in turquoise. I'm driving them with an internal AC-DC power supply (Lower voltage / price than the linked one) which taps the switched 2 prong AC plug on the back, the posts and solder are SUPER THICC (Being from the 70s) so you'll have to work them a bit to attach something to them.


It was difficult to get the LED strips in above the signal meters and PLL gauge but It's worth it to have those light up nice and even, I still have to add a resistor because overall the lighting now is too bright. I did all this because when I acquired the unit the case had completely disintegrated and I had to replace it with an Acrylic one I made from an old museum display that was being thrown out...

That could work. I like the buck converters, as they are the size of two sugar cubes. That box looks like it could be a bit big. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9BFZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9TWtDb8XVXTYY. I’ve designed and posted holders on thingiverse that will slot into your extrusion and stay out of the way. I use these for led lighting all the time. Good luck.

oh... i assumed that the company would have an international adapter.. woops..

quick search on google, there is FC user -francois- that was using underdog with type F plug.. admittedly he was having issues with power when i found his post, but FC user underdog, recommended 1a+ and 12v.. of course then with a plug that is acceptable for your country.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/underdog-log-vapes.4214/page-374#post-766363

also.. the underdog powersupply is: http://underdogvapes.com/vape-accessories/electrical-accessories/wall-wart-12v

it says it can take "input: 100-240VAC 47-63Hz .4A"

google search says germany runs on 230VAC 50Hz. this falls within the range of the power supply, so you should be good with just a plug adapter. type A -> type F like here https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4

The title says 10a, but the description shows 10a max 5a constant. That power supply, just looking at the size, can in no way steadily deliver 10a. Then reading on it says 10a is fine. I would not use this!

Look for an old Xbox power brick, they work well. Or find an old computer power supply and run on the 12v yellow.

description

This is good too, I would wire up a small 12v fan to cool it: LEDMO Switching Converter, AC/DC Power Supply Adapter Transformer Driver for LED Strip Lights, AC 100V/240V to DC 12V 10A 120W LED Strip Light Power Supply Switching Mode Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cqu6CbW2XD8HY

Sorry bud, I am going to have to agree with the others here, please find a way to return that.

Regarding replacing the head unit, it's not necessary. You can use a PAC line out convertor to convert the rear speaker outputs into something the amp can accept, and it has a nifty amp turn on circuit that detects signal on the speaker wires and turns your amp on.

Also, what wiring kit do you have already? This is more important than you realize. The lowest I would go is the Scosche amp install kits you can pick up from your local Walmart as their build quality is decent and they're oxygen free copper. If you want to step up a notch I'd go for the NVX brand kits from Sonic Electronix.

Now, onto the sub and amp. The Cruze doesn't have the largest trunk so I would stick to a single high quality sub and, to the chagrin of others here, match it with a decent prefabricated box. You spent $140 on that Dual brand setup so I'll try to keep it around that mark:

• Sub: Pioneer TS-W3003D4 12" sub - $90
  
• Box: Belva 1.5 cubic foot enclosure - $40
  
  For an amp, spending about $100-$120 would get something that powers that sub nicely. Here's one that is compact and will put out the power that's printed on the box (unlike some brands...):
  
  
• Amp: Precision Power iON i650.1
  
  If you don't have at least a 4 gauge oxygen free copper amp install kit then I suggest you return what you have and pick one of these up:
  
  
• NVX 4 gauge OFC amp install kit - $80
  
  I know this seems expensive for cabling, but it includes speaker wire and RCA wires for a complete install, and you do NOT want to use cheap wire as it can burn your car up or cause random electrical oddities with your amp install.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

Many thanks

Looking at the part lists, I think it is not worth it to source and swap all the individual components!

I may consider the step-down converter indeed. Any particular model/brand to recommend?
There are many variants of this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA
Good enough to use the sewing machine a couple of times a week?
THX

It feels like you're throwing darts at this! A rectifier converts ac to dc, and apparently a buck converter changes one dc voltage to another. So it looks like the 2 things are backwards in your drawing.

But in any case, I'd just use a cell phone charger if there's an outlet nearby. Or at least get it working with a cell phone charger or a power bank that has a USB port.

Questions include:

• Is there really 16vac all the time between the red and black wires?
  
• Is the power you need available from the existing transformer?
  
• Do the specs on the rectifier match your requirements?
  
• Do you have a way to look at the output of the rectifier?
  
• Does the output of the rectifier match the input requirements of the converter?
  etc.
  And finally, is there a single device like the following that might simplify the design. I don't know anything about this product, except that it appears that it might have promise.
  https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Converter-Voltage-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00RE6QN4U

> Just buy a cheap USB charger for $1 when you land so you have a local plug.

If he has a US charger that will work in Japan and South East Asia. Add a tiny euro converter to it (which you can get locally for like 50c) and it will work in India and Europe as well. It will also work in the UK/Ireland/Malaysia/Singapore, incidentally, you just need to press in the earth pin in the socket to get it in. This is what I travel with mostly, American plugs and that little adapter.

I'm slightly wary of the really cheap Chinese USB chargers, in my experience branded chargers tend to work better and may be less of a safety risk. I usually only use the one really cheap one I have to charge other cheap stuff that only requires a low current.

But for Japan/SE Asia US plugs work the best anyway.

> higher the output wattage the more expensive they get so this would only be suitable for relatively low power devices.

When I moved to England ~1983, I bought three 1.5 kilowatt step downs to run my items. Including a waffle iron I loved. I found them used but even new they are not that much. You should only need one of that size for things like heating appliances. 250 Watt one are fine for most computer/audio/video use.

Look to Amazon or Ebay. And the safest ones are real transformers. Not the switch mode ones suitable only for heaters.

Before you buy a transformer, check on the bottom of the fan or on its power adapter (if it has one) if it's rated for full-range (100-240V) use. I don't see any information in the manual for this model, but reviewers of other DC-powered fans by this manufacturer claim that the DC adapters for those are full-range.

If it's not full range, then see the following:

The manual doesn't list the amperage/wattage for this fan, but it does specify a 2.5-amp fuse for the cord. This means that at 120V, the fan can draw up to 300VA (about 300W) at full power.

With this in mind, I would recommend a 400W step-down transformer or larger. You want to use a converter with an actual transformer in it, like this one. Don't use a step-down converter with a triac (very light-weight and will usually be rated for a very high power for its size).

I would not expect the lower frequency to adversely affect the electronics, since the electronic parts will be fed from a rectifier.

I have about 35 Yeelights and am pretty happy with them. You can get them from GearBest for about 21CAD right now. Have you tried them before? One thing to note is that while they run fine in 110V after they're actually set up, setting them up is an enormous pain without a voltage converter. I have this one and it works great: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004MPR3X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is a little power supply for the breadboard included. You can see it clearly in this picture although unfortunately, it's turned around to hide the important connectors. This board is useful if you need to power more components than the RPi can safely supply off the GPIO pins. The board takes 6.5-12 VDC power in via a barrel connector (not the microUSB I mentioned before), often off a battery pack, and can provide 3.3v or 5.5v to the breadboard rails. There's a better overview here. The USB A port is a 500 ma OUTPUT. You don't absolutely need to use this board to get started with a few LEDs, it is a handy thing to have as you start to add things.

Setup:

1. CCA > Mini Toslink to Toslink > Ruark MR1 Mk2
   
   
2. Create Hub + CCA Speaker Group
   
   
3. Set newly created speaker group as default speaker for Hub Display
   
   ​
   
   Parts List
   
   

• Ruark MR1 MK2
  
  • Universal Travel Plug Adapter (Type B)
    
• Chromecast Audio
  
  • Optical Toslink to Mini Toslink
    
• Home Hub
  
  ​
  
  Bonus for CD Users! (current wip for me)
  
  Grab a raspberry pi, a USB CD Drive, and VLC. Automate the action taken when a CD is inserted to start VLC, start playback and output to the speaker group "Renderer" ...Or just rip to plex/your media manager of choice like the tech literate end users you all are :)

>It may be smarter to not use a DC-DC converter, but simply a 110/230VAC->36VDC converter

I was looking into this one actually, and save myself the trouble of using dc-dc boosters, though I've invested too much on this already and want to save as much as possible... the dc-dc- boosters are cheaper to buy.

I as looking at these boosters too

I'd throw in a ziploc with some different sizes of zipties and wrap about 10 feet of gorilla tape around the handle of the trowel of flashlight like this.

https://imgur.com/S3vb782

You can shave some weight by ditching the 550 and getting a roll of UHMWPE line. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BKT42P4

You can shave even more weight with better hammock straps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741GQ5WS

Highly recommend:

Gerber shard

USB Buck Converter (I keep mine in a chunk of 1 inch schedule 40 pvc with a couple endcaps)

Your best bet is it to buy a dual voltage hair straightener. They draw a lot of wattage and therefore need a pretty beefy transformer. The same goes for hair dryers.

You'd need a beefier 200 or 300 watt transformer, which is too large for travel: https://www.amazon.com/Simran-AC-200-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502385522&sr=8-6&keywords=transformer%2B200%2Bwatts&th=1

holy crap!

I troubleshoot HVAC for a living...

I work with electrical power every day! 5v-12v DC and 12v-600v AC, single and three phase.

you do realize that 220-240v single phase is made of two lines of 120v. there are adapters that people can use to adapt that voltage down to 110-120v.

canceling one of the legs and having a leg for common (off-site ground) or on-site ground (earth) will do this.

you can take one wire of 208/230/240v single phase and piece metal stuck into the actual ground (earth) and using a multimeter see a 110/120 bolt signal.

also, I mentioned a step down transformer which would be a safer way to do this.

the Xbox one brick is a AC power converter to 12volts DC. I never said to take that out of the equation.

example: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6

note: stinger leg may show different results.

the original op, do what feels safer for you. I'd recommend getting a power brick for the region eventually.

You might be able to power a pi zero from it (maybe....) but I would not expect a 3B+ to work.

In addition, that voltage step up you are using appears to be overkill, something like this might be a better choice (for a pi zero) https://www.amazon.com/Control-Converter-Module-Charger-0-9V-5V/dp/B01FDD3AYQ/

​

so basically this.

So it looks like > fuse box > add a mini tap > input of dc converter > output of dc converter > hot wire of usb cable to camera

I found a spot to connect the ground easily its actually the left under the glove box. I'm assuming I just connect all the grounds together like home electrical wiring?

https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Converter-Regulator-Supplies-Transformer/dp/B00BWLP88A/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497995782&sr=8-12&keywords=12v+to+5v+dc

I can regulate the maximum power output of the LEDs in software, I'm just saying that i definitely wont get anywhere near their max. I can also design animations so only so many LEDs are illuminated at once. I was just about to pull the trigger on 4 of the 20w BECs that you linked, but they are on back order! Any tips on how I can find more of the standalone ones? I keep trying to search but ones with ESCs keep showing up. Sorry if this seems rushed, I am trying to have this thing done in 6 days (yikes!). Your help so far has been invaluable!

​

Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Regulator-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B00J3MHTYG?th=1

I wish that I was better at EE so that I could answer your question, but more to the point, this is what I use and thanks to a heads-up from the guy that made “Konnected” for SmartThings → https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/

this. to be safe i'd install a buck/boost converter to make sure that if you're under 12v you aren't browning out the device and if you're over volting you aren't blowing it up.

something like this would do it (and leave you overhead for other 12v devices to be powered since its 10x more amps than you need)

https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Efficiency-Regulator-Stabilizers/dp/B06XG2KPTS?sa-no-redirect=1&th=1

Yes, I have. I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ailavi-Converter-6V-24V-Output-Module/dp/B00XPZ7I4I/
and tapped off the 12V from the autodimming rear view mirror. Has worked well so far.

It's adjustable, and set to 5V and measures at 5V with a multimeter.

Later today I'll measure everything WRT ground and post what I see.

Thanks for the help!

Here is the buck converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRN7NFQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't bring a voltage converter. You won't need it. Every laptop and phone charger can run 110-240V. Also, don't bring any device that requires a voltage converter (e.g., kitchen appliances, a blow dryer etc.). Just buy new stuff here.

FYI: A voltage converter is a big, heavy device that plugs into the wall. An adapter is small and just changes the plug. You can buy adapters in Korea for 2,000 won or less.

Here's the diagram I made up when I was doing the wiring
http://i.imgur.com/iTDrNh5.png

It wasn't too hard. I basically bought the plug for my car's existing wiring harness and wired the amp to that, used RCA cables to hook the amp (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B43LKV0) up to the DAC (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI)

On the other side, I got this cable: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAJTTYC and cut off the male USB end, which I wired to a step-down (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWLP88A) on one side and the 12v switched power on the other side. Then I just plugged in the tablet to the micro USB and the DAC to the female USB.

I don't have any pictures of the piece of wood method, but basically, once I pulled out my old headunit, there was a hole in the dash. I stuck the amp and DAC into the hole and cut a piece of wood big enough to cover the hole with a hole through it for the power wire to pass through for the tablet. The tablet itself is sandwiched between that piece of wood and the plastic bevel of the dash with a bit of foam padding.

I'm not a hardware hacker, and had never done any car audio, and I had no problems figuring it out. (though I did kill my battery a couple tiems because I had the amp hooked up to the regular 12V line instead of the switched line, so it stayed on and drained the battery till I got that sorted)

I didn't bother with FM radio since I never listened to it anyway. I can't say I regret it, though I do wish that somewhere in there, I had an aux line so I could hook up a phone easily, but that's only so my wife could play stuff off of her iPhone.

Night driving is fine, but that might depend on your car. I just use the auto brightness, and I have a solid black background for the tablet, so if it's too bright, I can just minimize the app, though I don't usually have to do that. During the day, it's bright enough to see fine, but that may depend on your car layout.. in mine, there's no glare because the screen is vertical in the center of the dash.

Finally, I also have a blutooth OBD2 reader (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ) hooked up which displays some gauges for stuff like MAF, RPMs, Gas usage, etc.

I think I have to pay about $30 shipping to send it back they have some sort of weird me to turn policy then I'll have to read over before sending it. I sent them an email with the video attached and they told me they will send it over to the supplier so they can review the video. It's been almost a week and I haven't heard anything back yet sometimes I think they like to run down the clock so that your return window of time draws to an end.

Ideally I would just buy a real 110v for around $150 Canadian. I'm gonna take a it now, because I'm not gonna get my money back for the de- soldering gun I can't really resell it because shipping would wont make it worth it. I can spend $50 and buy a better step-up/down voltage converter i guess. But i was trying to save some cash. I paid $90 Canadian for the de soldering gun. If I buy voltage converter it's going cost $140 do which is ultimately the price i was trying to avoid in the first place. Plus it will add another box on my bench for example this one. plus I barely will ever will use this thing for anything other than the disordering iron.

​

I'm open to any suggestions. has anyone used an inexpensive compact 150 W step-up-transformer?. Should I just throw this disordering gun in the garbage ? and move on. I feel like if i spend $50 dollars on a disordering tool it might as well be this one Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker ?

I researched this several months ago to prepare for my new house. I believe the absolute cheapest way to do what you want is using buck converters. See my post here about how I will power my Aeotec Multisensors.

A few notes...

You should be fine with leaving the buck converter in the wall as long as you insulate it from being shorted with heat shrink or other nonconductive material.

The buck converter from my post can be found on Amazon or at AliExpress if you are patient and want to save some money.

For the head end of this system, I ordered a security camera power supply. I should be able to run 2 sensors per channel for a total of 36 sensors. There are smaller options available if you do not need as many channels.

USB has a pretty strict voltage requirement. You'll probably want to start with locating a voltage regulator that will limit the voltage that reaches the charger to 5 volts. Then, I assume the dynamo has a positive and a negative terminal of some sort, simply hook those up to the appropriate inputs on the voltage regulator.

Something like this should do the trick, and provides a USB output.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/

Hi Everyone,
I'm going to be traveling to Paris soon and am in the process of buying power adapters to use my electronics (don't need a converter, just the socket adapter). I'm trying to determine what the optimal power plug is for Paris--it seems like both Type C and Type E/F are used.
As far as I can tell they are all interchangeable, but I wanted to make sure from someone who's already there.
These are the ones I am looking into: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YKUWN4/ref=twister_B00EB90MTK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B007YL84VA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491228233&sr=1-3&keywords=type+c+power+adapter

comment content: Hi Everyone,
I'm going to be traveling to Paris soon and am in the process of buying power adapters to use my electronics (don't need a converter, just the socket adapter). I'm trying to determine what the optimal power plug is for Paris--it seems like both Type C and Type E/F are used.
As far as I can tell they are all interchangeable, but I wanted to make sure from someone who's already there.
These are the ones I am looking into: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YKUWN4/ref=twister_B00EB90MTK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B007YL84VA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491228233&sr=1-3&keywords=type+c+power+adapter

subreddit: paris

submission title: STUDY ABROAD STUDENTS/TEMPORARY RESIDENTS/TOURISTS, LOOK HERE FIRST AND ASK YOUR QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD: Forum Libre // Open Forum -- 03 Apr, 2017

redditor: instinctellekt

comment permalink: https://www.reddit.com/r/paris/comments/632kxb/study_abroad_studentstemporary_residentstourists/dfrr6ij

If you have one shot to buy an inexpensive import power supply using amazon prime, I'd suggest something like this.

Just like UL and FCC labels, the actual current rating can be optimistic at best, and many of the supplies I've come across will enter fault protection at 50-80% of their rated load. Better to get something that will meet your demands even worst case.

What is the application? The DC regular that you posted might still be too much for the motor. You could be better off buying a power supply of 5v and a buck converter like this one:

DZS Elec 2PCS LM2596 DC-DC Step Down Variable Volt Regulator Input 3.2V-40V Output 1.25V-35V Adjustable Buck Converter Electronic Voltage Stabilizer Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRN7NFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HxN7AbB1XHB43

You should get a legitimate buck converter like this one.

Car usb chargers are hot garbage on a good day, and Raspis are pretty sensitive to poorly regulated power. You won't kill it, but it may act erratically.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Simran-AC-200-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=sr_1_6

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

There are two differences between Belgium and the US in terms of electricity:

• Belgium uses 220v 50 Hz AC, the US 110v 60 Hz^1
  
  
• The socket looks different between the countries (Belgium vs the US)
  
  
  If it is only for 8 days, I assume the items that you would carry that need a charge is your mobile phone/laptop charger and may be an electric shaver.
  
  Most modern phone/laptop chargers are compatible with a range of voltages that covers both these: they have a "Universal Voltage Range" and are generally marked as 100-220 v, 50-60Hz (Like this) . You can use these in belgium without a voltage converter. But you would need an "adapter" so that you can use the US plug in a Belgian socket. I would suggest one of these. You will be able to find this in a local electronic store as well (Fry's, Best Buy...).
  
  Some items, especially Electric shavers generally do not support both 220 volts and 110 volts. You will need a "converter" to convert between the voltage ranges. Something like this. However note that you may need a higher power (watts) converter if you are planning to use a higher power item (say an electric drill).
  
  I would suggest to avoid the converter altogether if you can (do not use an electric shaver). that way you can avoid carrying the bulky/more expensive converter, which anyway will not be of much use when you come back.
  
  ^1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
  
  Edit: Added an image for a universal charger.

Thanks, yeh that was the plan - to use the battery as a sort of regulator? as it has a consistent output so a phone connected to it would be fine. Sorry for any ignorance - new to electronics, but whats the inverter?

Is something like this what I need? http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/

> Middle East

It's really going to depend on where and what base. Any place that started American is going to use the same outlets. If it was the Europeans, you'll usually see this. Best bet is to get there and bum/buy some until you can order them. The PX will usually have a bunch of the correct type if they are needed.

These work like a charm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPZ7I4I

> First, can I power the devices directly from the batteries, or do they need something to clean up the power before being connected?

That depends entirely on the device itself. Does the device need a regulated voltage, or can it handle the wider voltage range necessary to run directly off a battery? You tell us, we don't know what the device is yet.

> My thought was to have 2 12V batteries for the POE and something to step down to 5V.

Makes sense. As for the 24V to 5V converter, a quick search led to this as the first result:

http://www.amazon.com/KEEDOX%C2%AE-Converter-Step-Down-Regulator/dp/B00BWLP88A

Not sure why all the prices you've seen are so high. Are you sure you're looking for the right thing?

Looks like a MB102 power supply to me, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871195&sr=8-1&keywords=Power+Supply+MB102

I’ll try to break down a parts list since OP didn’t explicitly say one and I am looking into this project myself:

• 12v to 5v DC Converter. This is powering the Rock64 (pi) in this scenario.
  
• some sort of 12v power supply
  
• SATA power connector - select one for your use case.
  
• Thanks to another user, it looks like the power supply and the SATA adapter both come from this unit’s internals: Unitek USB 3.0 to SATA I/II/III Mini Dual Bay External Hard Drive Docking Station
  
• Sata cables of appropriate length

> https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah-esp8266-breakout/overview

I have the exact board, and I also had issues powering it from a USB port. I'm currently using this power supply and have had 0 issues so far. I highly recommend a supply like this because it easily plugs into a solderless breadboard and can supply both 3.3v and 5v simultaneously. I combined it with this AC adapter. It's 9v, but the voltage regulators on the power supply will burn off the extra voltage as heat.

So now you can omit the voltage wire from the FTDI chip, but you still need a ground wire to go from the FTDI chip to the breadboard's ground.

Also, buy a multimeter if you don't already have one.

You basically just need something like this to plug into your wall outlet transformer. Plug that into the outlet (likely won't require the adaptor), plug the toy's cord into it, and voila. You should be able to pick one up at a hardware or electronics shop.

I can't comment on the toy itself, I'm an odd creature who isn't overly enthralled with vibrators in general. Everyone I know who owns one loves it, though.

Must be one of those cheap solid state transformers, apparently all the cheap travel converters on Amazon have this limitation. You might have to get a full size transformer and not a travel sized one. Something like this

indeed! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE6QN4U
enjoy!

Just google, they are easy to find.

How's this:

https://www.rei.com/product/775157/rei-co-op-adapter-plug-e106-europe-and-asia

Or this, it has Amazon prime:

https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO

I have converter plugs, a couple old apple USB wall chargers, and generic three way charging cables in the drawer in my spare room. International guests are especially grateful.

After 18 months, none have disappeared.

I used a 12-to-24v to 5vdc regulator for a project where I needed both 5v and 12v available, that allowed me to use a less expensive PSU and get both voltages. Worked a treat. I think in my case I used a laptop-style 12v 3A PSU.

This regulator is 10A at 5vdc
https://www.amazon.com/SINOLLC-Converter-Regulator-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B00J3MHTYG

For a wide range of PSU options, google Acopian PSU - they sell factory-direct worldwide, the PSU's are top notch quality, and they have every variety you could possibly imagine.

This isn't surprising.

> System76 products are compatible with world wide power grids. You may need to purchase a plug adapter for your computer.

This is saying that the charging brick is compatible worldwide, so you don't need to buy an expensive charging brick, but you still need to buy a cheap power cable or adapter.

You should be able to buy a cheap cable like this and plug it into the power brick. You should be able to find it at any computer hardware store. Or a simple adapter will do.

You cannot just wire it into a 120v outlet. If you have an electric clothes dryer, that will use 240. Or an electric range. Still I wouldn't recommend you mess around with this - get help from someone who knows what they're doing. Or as someone else recommended, get a 120-240 transformer. Something like this.

I just bought a DP-300F in Germany, I was looking through the manual and saw that it only takes 120V as input.
Could I get by with just purchasing one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485076797&sr=1-8&keywords=220+to+120+voltage+converter

Thanks

Seems to be a pretty cheapie LOC. I suggest trying a PAC-AUDIO LP7-2. I've used many of those with minimal issues.

PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f2StxbWY4QWMW

> Where did you happen to buy that converter brick? I'd like to give it a try.

From Amazon -- This item.

The wiring was very easy. You already have 12v coming to the seat base, since the 3rd gen console has a standard 12v outlet in it. Tap into that for power for a USB cable (I used this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEF293V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and for the wireless charger. For the data USB and aux line, I ran those directly to my head unit.

Does your breadboard come with a power supply? If not, this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T-ihzbKYP93BC

It has both a 3.3v and 5v line.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9BFZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 could something like this be used to do it?

With the rise of 3d printers it has gotten much easier to find large power supplies. This one should work:

https://smile.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_15?crid=23IGWZFRJ74SN&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1574186010&sprefix=12v+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-15

The Pi's run off 5V, so for it to work you would need a 5v step up module, similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDD3AYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_flQezQ1c54m7C

Even with those step ups, running the pi isn't a sure thing. I've had nimh batteries that didn't give me enough current. I've had much more success with lithium chemistry batteries.

560 mAh won't last super long. I get 4ish hours on a 2500 mAh powering a zero and a 3.5" screen.

yes you can.

Using a lipo battery pack and attaching it to a buck converter will step the voltage down to what the raspberry pi wants.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Converter-1-25-36v-Efficiency-Regulator/dp/B079N9BFZC/

The charger does support 100-240v, so he could probably also just buy an adapter like this instead of having to get a different charger

That's a cheap boost converter. I've toyed with building a tiny steam engine phone charger and bought a couple of these to test out. it didn't take too much effort spinning a motor to get the charging indicator on a phone to turn on (but it obviously didn't charge the phone for shit).

You might get longer battery life in your system by using a little stepdown converter module to create a regulated voltage supply that is exactly right for the red LEDs. That way you don't have to waste any battery capacity on just heating up current limiter resistors. Give it 2 x CR2032 cells in series on the input side of the regulator and dial its output voltage down to 2V for the red LEDs and it should go for hours.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484834586&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+power+supply#customerReviews

Best one I could find with half decent reviews. Obviously more current than you require, but its cheap and will get the job done.

Buy a converter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6 or just Google "220V-120V converter".

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MEF293V

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO

All you need is a transformer to step down voltage.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA

or this http://www.amazon.com/Rockstone-Power-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B00CLYFNU0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416943374&sr=8-5&keywords=240v+to+120v

Hey Chrwei, the ACDC is the actual cord. The breadboard one is a module that i was connecting the cord to. It looks like the one in this link: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU

DC-DC is preferred for the reasons you note. There are tons of DC laptop chargers and usb outlets.

On parts of my build where they would show and need to access plugging I am using this kind of usb outlet (about 1/2 the price on eBay). Where they do not show and I need a permanent 5v supply I use bare components kinda like this, which are about $2-$3 each shipped from China. Both are on switches so the converters aren't using power when not in use.

OP, you need a 12V to USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MEF293V

Wire that in place of the old clock, and plug your USB-powered gadget into it.

USB devices use so little power, you won't have to change any fuses or wires.

It's actually just a power supply made to fit on one of those protoboards and supply power to the rails.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=asc_df_B010UJFVTU5488754/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B010UJFVTU&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194024095585&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17101159569730068889&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029787&hvtargid=pla-314833700048

There are plenty of adapters available on Amazon. For example:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ceptics-Travel-Plug-Adapter-Type/dp/B0080SE6H2/

If it was me, I would just buy the US adapter and then sell the UK one on Amazon or eBay

Comprate uno alla, los venden en Radio Shack o cualquier store de electronica. Salen entre 10 y 20 dolares. Yo tengo uno de estos y funciona perfecto:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_198_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31GxIZe2bfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL200_SR160%2C200_&refRID=067SD7MJXVYKGMMMX55T

I would actually recommend you to get a local one at every place you'd go through. For example, the EU uses a two pin plug converter, so just get one for that, and you're covered for both Germany and Austria.

There's no point in investing a lot for a multipurpose plug converter, because it costs way more than buying individual converters.

You can get one for $2 (Amazon) whilst a reputable universal travel adapter would cost at least $14 (Amazon)

So considering you have multiple devices, just get 2 of the $2 adapters, and you'll be fine.

You'll need a step-down transformer to take whatever that voltage is to 5 volts, then just connect it to the battery - but test first or risk frying your kit.

Something like this might work for a 24v battery; http://www.amazon.com/KEEDOX%C2%AE-Converter-Step-Down-Regulator/dp/B00BWLP88A?tag=webtoolandtec-20

Does somebody do something specific for ebikes? Not that I've seen.

Well if I'm reading that label right, it only uses 100W, This should do the trick, only $30

If the device says "INPUT 100-240v" (or 110-220v, etc...) on it you will only need a plug adapter.

If not, you will need a step-down voltage converter. These things are bulky and heavy and you may find it easier just to buy a new whatever over here. They have cheaper, smaller ones but I've yet to use or even read reviews of one that seems dependable. They tend to break.

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Converter-Voltage-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00RE6QN4U/

one of these bad boys will power it, unless you have one of the REALLY old 48v AC doorbells. (You probably don't, they were rare and ~1900-1930 era) if your smart-bell is 5v. the same company makes 12, 15, and 24v output as well in a similar price range.

everything else depends on your model of smartbell and your skills and software on the pi =)

The lipo chargers others have recommended will work fine but you can't plug the batteries right into the arduino. You will need a step-up convertor between the battery and the Vin pin.(The pin requires 7V-20V, the battery only supplies less that 4.3V).

Use this to supply power with Vin pin : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J1X4XXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_4HHpzb38W89HY

Use this to supply power by USB : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDD3AYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_dJHpzbVHA6SHZ

I brought this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YKUWN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yours says it's a E/F adapter, so it should work fine.

you might be able to use just a physical adapter. A lot of times 240V parts will also work with 120V, just not the other way around. Not much danger in trying

for example, https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ (not endorsing this, just an example)

You'd have to consider the voltage drop over the wires. You could put one power supply in a centralized location where you have 110v. This PS would output 12 or 24 volts DC. Then you can use a cheap DC to DC converter at each dot location. Like this:Ailavi DC-DC Buck Converter 6V-24V 12V/24V To 5V 3A USB Output Module

if you want to get it working without modifying th psu you could get a step down converter.


here is one
https://www.amazon.ca/Simran-AC-200-Converter-Transformer-220V-200-watt/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=asc_df_B004MPR3X6/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292997009026&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1263100702828283604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001825&hvtargid=pla-717561231072&psc=1

I use adapters like this https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4/

(works on French and German outlets, but won't work in Switzerland, Italy or Denmark)

...the little two-prong adapters are convenient, but so many of them are poor enough quality to be a safety hazard. I still have several but I try not to use them.

I looked at the manual for your receiver, and it two things make me think it will not work on 240V

• No voltage selector switch on the back
  
  
• Specifically says it has an analog power supply
  
  You will need a step down transformer like this
  

So would this work then?

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500+watt+converter&qid=1562892085&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Is this what you need?

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=uk+to+us+adaptor&qid=1565657518&s=gateway&sr=8-4

JBtek Breadboard Power Supply Module 3.3V/5V for Arduino Board Solderless Breadboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fR4vDb9M2V911

You will get it way cheaper on Ali.

So first and foremost you need to check what the espresso machine's power requirements are and compare them to those of your country.

Your machine has a Type J plug, while your country uses a type E/F.

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4

This adapter should work to convert the physical plug itself, but again, you must check the required power for the espresso machine vs what your country provides.

After doing a little more digging, it seems I can just buy this that will do the job of both the buck converter and the bridge rectifier.

Would this work out of the box?

Not really, live in Europe. There must be converters i guess? https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6 for instance?

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU

Should that work?

The AC plug will likely be the European one. You may need to buy a US Adaptor or a travel adaptor

3.3/5V power supply that goes right into the breadboard in lieu of an adjustable Eventek.

​

Edit:

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU

Make your own then...

Old charger

+

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Regulator-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B00J3MHTYG/

+

USB port

You're looking for a buck-boost converter. See here for an example.

I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n64WDb30J7A68

The amp is a Line 6 Spider Valve Mk II 112 Tube Combo and the converter I'm looking at purchasing is this

https://www.amazon.ca/Simran-AC-200-Converter-Transformer-220V-200-watt/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=asc_df_B004MPR3X6/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292907895240&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17067176124547955436&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-717561231072&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA

I'm betting you can find one cheaper locally though.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RE6QN4U

All you need is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0080SE6H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1491763540&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plug+adapter

Here is one that goes up to 40 volts

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB

If you have the space to hide a little hardware, and you're the DIY type (I have no idea what your comfort level is, please don't burn down your house), my personal approach would be to use a 12v power supply or transformer, and wire it to a Zigbee doodad, and then to an RGBW LED strip.

I would start with the Zigbee doodad, and then find a transformer or power supply that suits its input parameters that doesn't look like cheap Chinese crap that's going to fail within a couple months.

Example Zigbee doodads:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDC83CB/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5/

One of those looks like it requires either a barrel jack to be wired up to plug it in, or you could take it apart and wired it directly, bypassing the barrel plug.

This is what I use to power LED strips:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC

But if that's too bulky, you can probably find a small potted (plastic/epoxy all sealed up) transformer that will work.

And make sure that your RGB strip works well with the Zigbee controller. I use RGBW where the W is warm white, which makes for much nicer indoor lighting, in my opinion.

I would worry about hiding anything in the wall where it wouldn't be easily accessible, and transformers do generate a little heat. Where does that grey wire go? If you can't hide the necessary hardware in the cabinet, then you need a lighting fixture that's large enough to contain it along with the LED strip.

These little guys are hard to beat for what you're trying to do.

That doesn’t mean it’s the same as aftermarket equipment. No OEM radios use RCAs.

So that means you’ll need a LOC (line output converter) or of your amp accepts high level inputs you can just run a speaker level signal into the aftermarket amp. Depending on the year of your Jeep switched power may be hard to find as everything is controlled by data in the newer Jeeps. PAC-audio makes a LOC that can supply a signal sensing remote turn on so you don’t have to go hunting for switched power all you have to do is give it constant power and ground and the signal your tapping into.

The item you linked to pulls almost 5 amps at 110 volts which is ~500 watts. The transformer you said 'went up in smoke' was rated for 100 watts so I'm sure it didn't last very long at all. You need a simple step down transformer thats rated at >500 watts. This should work: https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542787838&sr=1-5&keywords=500W+transformer although I'm not sure of the type of plugs used in the philipines.

I'm using one of these to power my pi. It's hooked up to the power supply 12V. I wanted the entire printer and octopi setup to be switched through the main power supply switch.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

It should have plenty of juice to power the pi and peripherals. If you cut one of the traces on it, you don't have to press the button to turn it on every time. Read the amazon reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-From-220-240/dp/B001ES8YY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377310814&sr=8-1

This won't support 15 amps though

The digital logic design circuits take 3.3-5v I think, and the lab has 5-12v power supply. It's been a while so excuse me if my numbers are off.

You can power a circuit using a battery and some know-how, if you've taken a circuits class or have worked with circuits before. This is the dangerous option because if you don't know what you're doing you could easily blow something out. Check the current your transistors take, use resistors and a multimeter and you can have functioning circuits in your dorm room.

You can also buy one of these. You're using TTL so 0-5V is the range you want, you just have to be careful of the current once again.

You could drop a lot more money and get one of these as well, and make your room really feel like a lab.

Rigging up your own supply is dangerous, be cautious.

The mains output voltage in residential homes in Kenya is 240V, compared to 120V in the US and Japan. Your American 3DS charger is only rated up to 120V. As soon as you plugged it into the Kenyan power outlet, your 3DS power adapter fried. You will need to buy a brand new one when you return to the US, or you can get one in Kenya depending on how long you'll actually be there.

Your laptop's/iPod's/phone's power adapters did not fry because adapters for these devices are usually rated for the range 110V-240V. It is only really Nintendo's adapters that I have to watch out for nowadays.

Next time, do not use those small outlet converters for devices that are not rated at the proper mains voltage. What you need is a transformer, and you should not cheap out on this because transformers can be risky to use.

Before my electric bill came today I was thinking of the following semi-off grid setup:


-----[solar system]-----

solar panel(s)

charge controller

battery(s)


-----[mining rig]-----

Raspberry Pi

Zeusminer Blizzard


-----[electrical stuff]-----

Samlex power supply


PowerSwitch Tail II relay


Raspberry Pi lamp timer circuit


buck converter



-----[The Plan]-----

Plug the Samlex into the PowerSwitch-Tail and PowerSwitch-Tail into wall. Hook the solar system battery up to the Samlex's battery backup terminals. Hook the Blizzard and Raspberry Pi up to the Samlex's 12v output (use buck converter to step the 12v down to 5v for the Pi). Finally, use a cron job on the Raspberry Pi to control the PowerSwitch-Tail. In the morning the Pi would use the 'lamp timer' circuit to open the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the solar system battery. During the night the Pi would close the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the grid. The Pi would also restart cgminer to mine to different addresses depending on which power source was being used. I would setup the cron job based on the capacity of the solar system. More panels and batteries would mean the system would run longer off of the solar system before switching back over to grid power. I think it would have worked, but not sure. I'm pretty new at this stuff.

edit: formatting

> it hasn't identified any lights

It hasn't identified any of my fixtures either (all on LEDs). It had picked up numerous LED strips powered via plug-in DC adapters and high-amperage DC power supplies. e.g. 12V @ 10A. Alas, it lost them a few months ago.

If the adapter you have is the same as the one you linked to, then no. As it has the wrong shape. The Europlug has tapering sides, not rounded sides like the adapter you linked to.

Here would be a proper adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-US-EU-Travel-Europe-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO/

Of course I couldn't waste all that energy from the exercise bike... so I thought I'd build a generator to capture some of it.

I have a working prototype using a NEMA 17 motor and a simple two bridge rectifier. I'm getting ~20-35v normal riding, but the problem is, at peaks I'm getting upwards of 45v. I was using a 2596-SDC (4-40V buck converter) but I let out the magic smoke when I rode on the bike at a fast pace.

My intent is to use this to charge a USB battery bank. I purchased a DC-DC buck converter (4.5-40V to 5V/2A), but I'm worried it will suffer the same fate.

Looking for advice on how to handle the overvoltage. Some sort of zener diode circuit?