Reddit mentions of DROK 90483 DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module

Motor control is tricky at times. PWM or using a buck converter are really the best ways to do it. This is because it varies the voltage going into the motor as opposed to changing the electrical resistance of the circuit like resistors and thermistors do.

Using diodes in parallel would be really bad because diodes will drop .6V-.7V for every diode you put into the parallel branch, but have really small internal resistance. Meaning you'll take your 6V from your battery and drop it down to ~4.5V and have it short circuit through the diodes.

If you wired the diodes in series with the battery and flywheel motors though, you'll get your desired effect.

Your fridge won't run long on that battery via an inverter, mate. That being said, you can buy a dc-dc step-down converter like this to push down the voltage to 12V then use car/solar accessories.

You'll definitely have enough power to have light, mobile recharge, etc.

You could even use a step-up converter and charge your battery using solar panels.

I've used one from this manufacturer on a project and it worked well:

http://amzn.com/B00C4QVTNU

If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&pd_rd_w=1kwf3&pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&psc=1&refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE

This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.

This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.

Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY

And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.

Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.


Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have found this option for a 12v battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Phosphate-Rechargeable-Self-discharge-Replacement/dp/B07Q7FY8CC

Which would then require a charger as well...

Or this option for a boost regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-90483-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00C4QVTNU

I think I will try the later, based on this guy's YouTube explanation: https://youtu.be/jLia59KfkSw


Thanks!

For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.