Reddit mentions of Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz,Black

Or if you don't have like, thousands of dollars to spend cool yet frivolous purchases, you can just get [a tub of oxalic acid](Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PbXkzbD3JRQ6W) for less than $10 on Amazon.

Mix in water and soak the item overnight; rust is gone.

From a simplicity point of view, I definitely think oil is the way to go. You'll see a 3 part cleaner, brightener and oil kit. It's a great idea but I think diluted oxalic acid works way better. Try this with this scrubber. Scrub (while using gloves) with the oxalic acid and the stainless steel scrubber being careful not to dig into the grain. Rinse it with clean water a couple times and let it dry. This brings the original color out of the teak. Then, just brush on a couple coats of oil. It's way less fiddly than varnish. Just wipe up any mess. You'll need to oil every other month or so to keep that nice warm color but I can literally do my deck hand rails and the companionway hatch in less than 15 minutes. It's very easy.

Thanks for all your advice! I’ve written out all details on the project I can think of with my final proposed design. I want to be extra careful since this uses mains voltage. I think I’ve mitigated my risks but would love your review and thoughts on the final design with the whole picture in mind. I’m also going to create a new post in this sub so feel free to reply there instead.

Project Overview
I’m building an oxalic acid vaporizer to treat my beehives for mite infestations on a semi-annual basis. Oxalic acid comes in a powder form and sublimates at 315F, degrading into unwanted gas products at 372F. 1-2g of acid are applied at a time and must be done so away from the person as fumes are toxic. The vaporizer will be used 1-2 times per year by myself only.
Key Requirements

• Vaporizer must hold 1-2g of acid and run from 315F-360F consistently for 1-3mins
  
• Heating element must be at least 3ft from the body
  
• Vaporizer must run on 120VAC (no car batt available) and plug into a standard GFCI outlet
  
• Must have a physical on/off switch and a light to indicate if the heater is receiving power
  
• Should be low cost (~$50) using easily available retail/free parts
  
• Must be easily portable by 1 person
  
  Design & BoM
  The vaporizer will consist of a heating element with a small copper reservoir on the end of an aluminum broom stick. It will plug into an extension cord and have an inline illuminated switch to turn on/off as well as an in-line thermostat to keep the element in the correct temp range. All elements will be grounded and well secured and insulated to avoid shock. The rough placement and wiring diagram can be seen here and takes after this one. The BoM is below
  
  
• Old aluminum 4ft broomstick to mount everything to
  
• 120v illuminated toggle switch as physical switch and indicator from ebay
  
• In-line disc Thermostat as temp regulator from alliedelec.com
  
• Portable Immersion heater as heating element from BBB
  
• 3/4in copper plug as acid reservoir from Home Depot
  
• Thermal paste for contact between reservoir and thermostat disc from newegg
  
• Shallow 1-gang box as housing for switch and extra wires from Home Depot
  
• All wires will be cut and spliced from an 8ft 3 prong extension chord
  
• Grounds will be fastened to all metal parts and reservoir will be fastened to thermostat using screws and bolts
  
• Wires will be fastened and secured using wire nuts, electrical tape, and zip ties
  
  Risks/Questions
  
  
• The heating element is made to be immersed in liquid and may fail after multiple times reaching high temperatures.
  
• The toggle switch may use an in-line diode for illumination, which would act as a half-wave rectifier for power reaching the heater, thereby significantly reducing the voltage and/or burning out the light.
  
• It may not be possible to securely fasten the reservoir to the thermos disc using off the shelf tools and fasteners. It may require thermal cement.
  
• All connections and pinch/abrasion points must be very secure and well insulated to avoid shock
  
  That’s it. Anything problematic or overlooked? Any better ways you can think of?