I started typing and this ended up being really long, hopefully it helps. I might have gone overboard, so if you need / want a TL;DR or more info on anything just say the word and I'll do what I can :)

My personal preference is to add details and touch-ups to my figures. I've done a few full repaints, and I'm working on my first airbrushed figure, but I really like adding in details where the factory didn't :)

---

Paints:

I've had good results using alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya, Model Master, or Testors Acrylics (I think Enamels are Testors' main line, so make sure to check what type it is). Alcohol-based acrylics thin and clean up nicely with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I usually pick it up from whatever pharmacy is nearby (don't get the 70%, it doesn't work at all).

Citadel and Vallejo make nice water-based acrylic paints in additional colors, you'll definitely need a primer if you're working with Vallejo (I've only used a couple of Citadel paints, so I can't really speak to them).

You'll want to stay far away from acrylic craft paint, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't come out well at all (I just use some empty glass or plastic jars from stuff like sour cream or salsa since they're not too big).

Some folks like enamel paints, and there might be another kind of model paint, but the chemicals in those paints and their thinner tends to be quite strong so I avoid them. I used un-thinned enamels when I first started painting, and when I tried to use the thinner it ended up melting my paint tray and making a mess, so I'm not too keen to give them another try.

---

Tools are going to differ a bit depending on how you want to paint (hand painting vs airbrushing or spray painting).

---

Hand Painting:

You'll need paints, some soft bristle brushes (I have a set like these), something to stir your paint (I use a Badger Paint Mixer and love it to bits), thinner (depending on your type of paint), a mixing tray, some pipettes for measuring paint and thinner, something to hold your parts while painting (I like these Aligator Clips), something to stick the clips into (I use a styrofoam block wrapped in plastic from a craft store, but I've seen folks use taped together cardboard like from Amazon boxes or the cheap foam coolers), some fine grit sand paper or nail buffing blocks to help rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick, and something for topcoat (I absolutely love Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, aka Future Floor Wax, it's a clear acrylic wax that dries to a semi-gloss to gloss shine, it brushes on nice and self-levels for a smooth finish, and one bottle will last a REALLY long time; I got a bottle a few years ago and I've used it on a LOT of gundams and TFs and the bottle is still half full). You may also want some smaller containers or jars to hold your thinner, brush cleaner (alcohol or water), and topcoat if you're using Pledge just so you don't need to keep the big bottle out on your workspace.

---

Airbrushing:

You'll need an airbrush and compressor, and then a lot of the same supplies as above. You'll also want some small-ish jars to store your thinned paint so you can re-use your leftover paint instead of having to toss it, and some painter's tape to mask off parts you don't want to paint and to keep your paint lines clean.

You can airbrush inside the house, but you'll want to do it in a well ventilated area if you don't have a spray booth (box with a fan and air filter to help move the fumes out the window and help keep the paint from spraying everywhere). I'm still learning to paint with my airbrush, so I don't have too many tips here.

---

Spray painting:

You'll need your choice of spray paints, alligator clips, fine sand paper, and some painter's tape to mask off areas so it doesn't get everywhere. I definitely wouldn't advise using spray paints indoors, the fumes tend to be really strong. I haven't really used spray paints in a long time, so I'm not a lot of help here either.

---

Markers:

Some folks might recommend sharpies or paint pens / markers, but I've never had good luck with them.

I do highly recommend using a Micron, Graphix, or Prismacolor marker / pen for highlighting panel lines in .005 thickness for most figures. The .01 and even .05 markers can work well too, but they might be too thick for some figures, so a couple different thicknesses can't hurt (I've got a pencil case full of lining markers from those brands). Don't use sharpies for panel lines, unless things have changed, even the thinnest ones tend to dry a purpley-blue instead of black, and the lines are still really thick compared to the Micron.

---

Painting Tips:

• Always wash your figures in some warm soapy water, rinse them off, and let them dry fully before painting. This gets rid of any leftover mould release from the factory, it helps keep the parts from sticking in the moulds during assembly, but it will repel paint, pledge, primer, and panel lines like mad. I've skipped this step in the past, but things never turned out as well; so now I wash all my figures shortly after I open them up and make sure they're keepers.
  
• Always thin your paints! You might need 2-3 coats to get things just right, but the end finish will look really nice. I've found a 2:1 ratio of paint:thinner seems to work pretty well for most paints, but ymmv (the temperature and humidity can have a huge impact on how the paint comes out, and fans can speed the drying process, which can be a blessing or a curse, heh).
  
• If you're painting parts that will rub against others, lightly sand the surfaces first. This will help the paint stick to the plastic better.
  
• You might need / want to prime a piece before painting it. You can prime by hand with a primer like Vallejo Surface Primer, or with a spray primer. I find spray primer tends to come out smoother, but depending on what you're doing, either can work (priming by hand tends to come out a bit thicker, so ymmv again). When I paint by hand I'll usually only prime if I'm painting a dark piece a lighter color, but when I airbrush everything that's getting painted gets primed first.
  
• After you paint something, let it sit for about an hour before doing another coat, and let things fully dry and cure before moving on to topcoating and panel lining (usually 24 hours between a final coat of paint and topcoat, and another few hours between topcoat and panel lines).

1. A good, sharp chef's knife. Nothing fancy, I use a Dexter that I got for like $20 and have it resharpened. You can get a lot nicer, but you don't have to. The first kitchen I ever worked at (20 years ago) used knives almost exactly like this.
   
   
2. A good meat thermometer. I use this one which works similarly to a ThermaPen but without the ridiculous ~$90 cost.
   
   
3. A good cast iron skillet can be pretty versatile. Cast iron holds heat very well, which means that it's great for stuff like searing steaks.
   
   
4. Some cheap, non-stick frying pans. I recommend getting cheap ones because once the coating starts coming off (and it always does at some point, it seems) you're going to throw them away and get new ones. You can spend $300+ like I did once and get high-end stuff like All-Clad or whatever, but even if you're super careful and use only wood and silicone utensils to cook on it, it'll still start peeling its coating, and then All-Clad will say you used metal silverware on it and your warranty is invalid, blah blah blah, and that's more hassle than you need. Just get cheap ones.
   
   
5. Now THIS is where you can spend some legit money. A tri-ply, high quality frying pan without a non-stick coating. These are great for making pan sauces while you cook, etc. I made a chicken, garlic, and olive oil with a red wine vinegar based pan sauce with this pan (well, and some baking dishes) that was incredible. All-Clad is the industry standard but the Tramontina stuff is 1/2 the price or less and built to near the same level of quality.
   
   
6. A nice, enameled Dutch Oven, whether it be from Le Creuset or Tramontina, these are the best for stews, soups, chili...etc. Hold heat forever, well built, and easy to clean.
   
   
7. A good fish spatula, which I almost never use to cook fish. It's actually just the best shape for omelets, eggs, whatever. Flipping anything in a pan with a utensil like this is awesome.
   
   
8. A thick ceramic baking dish for making things like lasagna or casseroles or even just roasting meats/veggies.
   
   
9. Believe it or not, cookie sheets covered with heavy duty aluminum foil are how I do a lot of my oven roasting of small things, like diced veggies or potatoes. They work perfectly and being so large they're able to be spread out so they get roasted on all edges for a little extra flavor. Brussel sprouts & diced bacon in a cast iron skillet to start and then dump them onto this and blast them in the oven at 425 for 15-20 minutes and you'll have a great side dish.
   
   
10. No matter how careful you are, you're going to get something caked on or get a dish so dirty you think it's uncleanable. For that, I recommend Barkeeper's Friend which is an awesome powdered cleaner. Add a little water, use a paper towel and this stuff to make a paste, leave it in the pan for a few minutes, then rinse. I have yet to see this fail. Awesome stuff. Saved some pans.
    
    
    There are lots of other things I use daily:
    
    

• Good kitchen towels
  
• Heavy Duty Aluminum foil
  
• A good dish scrubber for cleanup
  
  etc.
  
  But the point I guess I'm making is that you can get lots of good, cheap stuff to start with.
  

Yo bro, I got you!

First Rolling Papers

Second thing for sure is Filters

Now you need a grinder and there's a lot of good ones out there, this is the one I went with a few years back and I still use it all of the time, plus it came with a pollen press but... It's a bit pricey!

I'm gonna give you the rest of my typical setup that are less used by others and just the "little things"

• A hand needle or an long/avg size but THIN screw/nail (anything). This really is a must, what I use is this guy
  
  
• I have an average sized RAW (hemp) tray, however I've noticed I keep using it less and less. You'll be fine without one just use a book or something but it's something to consider.
  *Get yourself a magnifying glass man. One of my all time favorite activities while I'm high with friends or even by myself is to just check out this dank skunk beautiful in front of me y'know? I went a step further and just recently bought a full on microscope.
  
  
• This scale will be just fine give it a nice wipe every once n awhile and it will be fine.
  
  
• HEMP WICK!! you'll want one it really is nice to have a kind of controlled flame. A typical bic lighter is actually making your trees too hot! You burnin away all of that deliciousness bro, gotta get a hemp wick. My preference is humboldt's hemp wick, they have been nothing but amazing for me constantly giving me random fun stuff for free and their product is solid.
  
  
• Smell Proof Bags There's plenty of cheaper options that are probably just as good I just use these and haven't changed.
  
  
• Check this Jar out! You want to be an ent, that's good, that's real good. This jar is the perfect representation of a proud and happy ent, just keep it filled!
  
  Alright so that's the basic shiznit my man. On a side note I'd recommend just giving vaporizers a try if you have the resources. I just recently made the switch to a PAX2 from a grav water pipe. Let me tell you the transition has been beautiful. Anyways, I hope this was helpful. Toke care, pal.

Overview

Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

• Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  
• Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)
  
  ---
  
  

  Work Done
  

  
  The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.
  
  As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.
  
  

• Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  
• Paint Correction
  
• Paint Coating (2 layers)
  
• Tip Restoration
  
• The Exceptional Interior
  
• Paint Chip Repair
  
• Trim Restoration
  
  Services described here
  
  The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.
  
  The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).
  
  The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.
  
  The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.
  
  The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.
  
  All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.
  
  I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
  
  Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.
  
  Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.
  
  The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.
  
  The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.
  
  The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.
  
  The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.
  
  ---
  
  

  Response
  

  
  I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Reflection and Lessons Learned
  

  
  Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.
  
  Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.
  
  ---
  
  Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior
  
  Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.
  
  www.chicagosdad.com
  
  www.facebook.com/chicagosdad
  
  Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

What kind of paint did you use? Do you have an airbrush? Do you plan to sand with 800+ grit before coating?

There's a lot to learn about paint jobs and sealing them. After a few failed attempts and weird reactions, I tend to keep same brand paint throughout a piece (for primers I hop around, but let it dry completely before top coating).

If you're using a different brand I HIGHLY suggest you wait until it has gassed out (it doesn't smell like paint anymore lol). This can take several days depending on how many coats you used, and whether you applied them too thick.

Sanding allows for better grip of the clear coat to the paint. Wet sanding is best since it removes the debris of paint and prevents most deep scrapes. It is easy to sand through your paint, especially if you only did one coat (which is why you should do 2-3 with some light 600 grit sanding in between)...

I hate sanding before a clear because I suck at it and tend to create a deep scratch or two because I'm too strong for my own good :P What I have found to work wonders is Floor polish/wax.
This is the ONLY one that a lot of modelers suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was known as "Futures" before, but after re-branding and all that, it is now what I linked. You'll need an airbrush for this. Do a light misting of the entire part you're working with, then apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between (usually 1-2 minutes or less if you have good air circulation). It smells great, self leveling, you can dip small parts into a little cup filled with this stuff... it's fantastic. It's slightly flexible as well. If you wait 38 hours (i think that's what the bottle says) you can apply a second coat for added protection. Make sure to clean your airbrush with ammonia (I use windex), to prevent it from curing inside it.

Essentially, floor polish is more forgiving, but offers slightly less protection than a well applied clear coat. If you don't have time for all that prepping crap (wet sanding before and between clear coats), then definitely go this route.

Well, in that case, if you are going to do that, I don't recommend buying an airfix starter set (it's discussed below for completeness, but while the set of paint and cement is appealing, you'll end up throwing it all away later on aside from the paintbrush). The paints included in there almost certainly will not work well.

Go to a hobby store or something, buy a cheap airfix kit (I recommend either the Harrier FRS.1, Zero, Spitfire PR.XiX (all in 1/72), go to an art store to buy some Golden Talkon brushes (it's the name of the material; its' a super soft orangey bristle), and buy some paints (acrylic, plus a bottle of spray primer), while you're there.

See this old thread below of another beginner (though he was interested in sci fi), of tools you would need.

**That list is configured for the UK.

If you want to build plastic models, I recommend a recently issued spitfire model from Airfix, a few bottles of good, brushable paint (Model Master Acrylic is good, if you use a spray primer), and a few "golden talkon" synthetic brushes, plus tweezers and an exacto knife.

The basic starter sets you can buy are these:

Italeri: http://www.austinsmodels.co.uk/product.php/italeri_jas_39_gripen_172_scale_starter_kit/?k=:::6142968

Airfix: http://www.airfix.com/uk-en/shop/starter-sets-and-gift-sets/small-starter-sets.html.

These are gear towards children, and the quality of the paints are marginal at best. However, what it will do is give you an idea of the challenge ahead.

And some liquid cement.

As for why the long list below, there is an alternative:

Airfix, Revell Germany, Heller, and Italeri ALL make starter kits with paint and cement. However, the stuff in those are generally designed to appeal to children and would have to largely be replaced once you are "serious" about this.

The tools I recommended are more for if you're investing in the hobby for the long run with reusable, useful items you can continue to use for long periods of time.

However, if you are unsure, there's nothing wrong with one of those complete package kits. Warning though, Airfix's start kit paint is absolute garbage. but water soluble and easy to clean up. Strippable with alcohol, at least in the formulation I got a year ago.

And here's how I'd set it up:

1. Airfix Spitfire PR XIX. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-PRXIX/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369626&sr=8-13&keywords=airfix+spitfire,
   OR: Airfix FRS 1 Harrier: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A04051-BAe-Harrier-FRS1-x/dp/B0021L9BU6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1442370019&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F72+FRS.1
   **you'll notice a theme developing. These are all mostly single color builds, minus some detail work.
   
   
2. Brush pack: Get all the listed sizes, and then one 1/4th inch brush (go to an art store. Golden Talkon synthetic (orangish, really soft) is what you're looking for). http://www.amazon.co.uk/Royal-Langnickel-Golden-Taklon-Synthetic/dp/B000X213JC/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369689&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=golden+talkon+brush+10%2F0.
   
   Or, this: http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Langnickel-Taklon-Brush-Super/dp/B001ARHH7G (probably the better choice).
   
   
3. Knife: in the UK, Swann Morton is probably easier to get.
   
   
4. Cement: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement-Toy/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369769&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+extra+thin Sandpaper pack: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Albion-Alloys-Sanding-Sticks-360/dp/B00DRAEV0A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369797&sr=8-5&keywords=sanding+sticks
   
   
5. Paint is preferably acrylic, so long as it's not Humbrol Acrylic, because that paint is utter garbage (and is what comes with the starter sets and bad, tube-based poly cement).
   
   
6. Consider a can of spray primer (NECESSARY if you use Model Master Acrylic, which brushes well but NEEDS a primer).
   http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Acrylic-Spray-Primer/dp/B004T8TD0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369901&sr=8-1&keywords=humbrol+primer
   or: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Polyurethane-Primer/dp/B004BN5RYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369935&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+primer
   
   
7. Or best primer: http://www.amazon.co.uk/GRAY-PRIMER-180ml-PLASTIC-METAL/dp/B0000WS014/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369976&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+primer
   Other items:
   
   
8. A bottle of humbrol "Clear" (the substitute for Future/Johnson's floor polish in the UK). Decal setting solution (optional) Decalfix, Micro Sol will work. (In the US, Future is a gloss coating used by modelers, painted on or sprayed on before applying decals, available here: https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468023141&sr=8-2&keywords=pledge+floor+care
   
   **Future can be found in hardware and places like walmart in the US, there is no need to order it online except for convenience.
   
   
   
   
   
   

There is also an all natural non-toxic product called Leather Honey. It's been around for a long time.

I've found it to be very useful on all types of leather, from my cowhide backpack, my SO's new winter boots, and my deerskin moccasins. It does tend to darken the leather you apply it to significantly. I've applied it to several of my things several times each and have not yet used a quarter of the bottle. However, I keep a small rag about 2x2 inches in a zipped bag and it's well saturated. I think this helps with not wasting the product.

I think you need to be careful with what you use to condition and recondition leather, especially old leather. Sometimes you might apply something and it works great, but you discover in a couple of years that the leather has begun to rot.

Do what you wish, but be aware that the tanning process (a preservative) can break down over time. When you try to restore your leather, you want to penetrate it with leather-friendly moisture that will not chemically undo the tanning.

Finally, whatever method you decide to do, test an inconspicuous area and wait a few hours. If you like what you see, gently apply your conditioning product (boughten or home made) and let it sit overnight. Sometimes I'll set the item a few feet in front of a space heater to gently warm the leather for a few hours.

I've also been known to use a hair blow dryer on seams to make sure it's penetrating well. Too close will just make it dry and crack. Reapply the next day, and let it soak in. Keep doing this slowly and patiently, until you see that your leather is not absorbing any more. Let it sit another day, then heat it a bit and begin to gently buff away any excess reconditioning material.

You should be left with something pretty amazing.

Best of luck!

I'm a bit late to this post, but I'll throw in my 2 cents anyways.

I've had a few of them and overall would recommend them. They're great for what you're trying to accomplish.

The first one I bought was the flint-and-wheel with soft flame model. That worked well but after a few months, I began to have real problems with the flame being unusable. My suspicion is that flint particles fouled up the nozzle. I'm sending that one in on warranty.

Then I bought the single torch model, as well as a Vertigo brand Z-Plus 2 Extreme. They both are good. The Thunderbird worked well and I never had problems with it. Ended up giving that one to a friend. I liked the Z-Plus a little bit better. It had two torches angled inward at each other, and it also had a transparent tank so you could easily see your fuel level. The Thunderbird fit better into my Zippo cases, but the Z-Plus was fine after I bent the piece of metal inside of the lid that catches the cam.

Thought I was set with that Z-Plus and I was for a while, but then I found out that there was a Thunderbird model that had both a single jet torch as well as a soft flame, and it was not flint-ignited. That is the one I've been EDC'ing ever since. It's fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more highly.

> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.

Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.

By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.

Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.

> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.

Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.

If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.

> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.

I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.

> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.

Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.

As nice as cast iron is, if you ever want to make any kind of pan sauce after you've cooked your protein that might involve wine or vinegar or lemon juice, you'd be out of luck. I'd go with a good, heavy traditional-finish skillet with some sort of clad construction for optimal even heating across the surface. As far as that sticking issue goes, you don't have to use as much oil as long as your skillet is already heated before you put any food in it. In some cases (not all), meat in a traditional finish skillet will stick at first but release from the surface right around the time it's supposed to be flipped or turned, which is perfectly normal anyway.

One of the other perks of a traditional finish skillet is fond -- a.k.a., the stuck-on brown bits left in the pan after you've cooked your food. All those brown (not blackened, that's too far) bits = flavorful awesomeness, and are key in making a good pan sauce to go with whatever you're making. Deglaze the pan with a bit of broth or wine or whatever and scrape up the brown bits with a wooden spoon, throw some butter and herbs in there, baby, you got a sauce goin'. (Plus, this makes cleaning the pan later a lot easier, since you're using what would otherwise be "mess" to your advantage.")

Problem is, good-quality stainless steel skillets are expensive, and the drop-off in price represents a really steep drop-off in quality, which would of course give you worse results in cooking and make you less likely to want to use one anyway. One thing to watch out for is skillets with disk bottoms, where the only place the manufacturers put the highly conductive aluminum core which appears in most stainless steel cookware in a disk on the bottom of the skillet. These are the cheapest options, but the problem is the sides of the pan don't heat up as evenly or as well as the bottom, which results in uneven cooking if you're using the entire surface of the pan. Better to go with a "clad" pan -- one in which the entire skillet is made out of a layer of aluminum sandwiched between stainless steel. Better conduction, more even heating, better performance, better food. Yes, clad skillets are more expensive (~$110 versus ~$50 for a disk bottom), but 1) Cooking.com, etc. run sales on these things all the time, and 2) as long as you take good care care of them (Bar Keeper's Friend works wonders for me), there's no reason why they shouldn't last a lifetime -- definitely worth the investment.

Hello all, I have been wearing faux leather all my life from Zara and I just got my 1st real leather jacket, Koopes Leather Bomber Jacket!

Need some advice on leather cleaner and conditioner since I never cleaned or conditioned my faux leather jackets before. There didn't seem to be a good search results on leather cleaning and conditioning or I must have missed it. From most of the threads I read, it seems like the brand name doesn't matter as much for cleaner and conditioner, but sounds like it is important to NOT use my boots conditioner due to silicone.

My lamb skin jacket did not feel as stiff as my faux leather which I really liked since I want something comfortable for usual wear rather than a stiff jacket with a bit more durability.

My research shows Saddle soap may be a great cleaner and Lexol cleaner and conditioner seem to be a great option too. I read Leather Honey is a great conditioner, albeit the premium price!

I wanted to ask the experts at r/MFA what they personally recommend for lamb skin leather:

1. cleaner
   
2. conditioner! I hear different conditioners can leave a different amount of oils and can even change colors a bit.
   
3. waterproofing, is this worth it?
   
   Edit: Also, I just wanted to confirm that Dry Cleaning leather jackets is NOT okay. I read it may dry and/or crack the leather. Is this true? Sounds like I should just use the cleaner and conditioner once or twice a year?

Hey there, welcome!

I do want to warn you, there are a lot of Cuban Cigar (CC) fakes out there. Likely if you bought from a shop and they aren't Cohibas, you're probably fine, but you may want to check out habanos.com (looks like their standard map is down however) and see if the map isn't there.

That said, CCs aren't terribly hard to get in the US and there's a few sites that ship them by the box to the states. We have regular box splits on here (one person buys a box and ships it out at cost to other people in smaller batches, say 5 cigars each), and there's plenty of folks on /r/CigarMarket that will provide you some CCs if you search, or you can check out /r/cubancigars too. Funny enough they're usually much cheaper than what you paid in Canada because basically no taxes.

Honestly, I don't think there is much "working up" needed to smoke a CC. They're relatively mild compared to Dominican or Nicaraguan tobacco (in the grand scheme of things... of course there's bold Cuban and mild Dominican). Now, if we were talking about a Padron or a La Flor Dominicana, then yes, I'd say you'd need to smoke for a few months before you can be sure that the nicotine won't make you literally sick (rare but it can happen). Cubans? Nah, totally great for a newbie to smoke.

Also if you're new to cigars, don't let those things sit out. Get yourself a tupperware container and a boveda pack: https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-Collection-Rectangle-Storage-Container/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2/135-6339489-8039356?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=74QK8XTVDEZSBPPK0WZ3 and https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=pd_sim_79_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MYA4CBWYAZRPR8N5JEKH

If you don't store the cigars in an airtight container with humidification, they'll dry out and not be the tasty smokes you were expecting.

Now, if you do want to keep your first CCs as a special smoke, I totally understand. Do keep them humidified though. Without humidification they will wither and eventually the oils will dry out and they won't be recoverable at that point (years without humidification but that isn't out of the question when you buy them and save them) But overall, they're not hard to get, smoke great, and are totally fine for a beginner to smoke. I say light 'em up! You can replace CCs easily enough.

Here's my method, I'll try to be thorough but bear with me, I'm at work.

What you'll need:

3 - MicroFiber Cloths

1 - Shampoo

1 - Eye Glass/Lens Cloth

1 - Isopropyl (99%)

2 - Spray Bottles

1 - Distilled Water

1. Get a few of these bad boys, can be purchased pretty cheap at any auto store / Target, if you have none around the house.
   
   
2. Lay down 1 Microfiber Cloth, place record on top.
   
   
3. Go to your bathroom, grab some shampoo, and drizzle a little bit around said record.
   
   
4. Spray down the shampoo / record with the distilled water, I use a water bottle, a little easier to control than a hose.
   
   
5. Take a second Microfiber Cloth (they usual come in packs anyways) and start wiping the record the way of the grooves. I try to start from the inside out in a clockwise motion. Somewhere between gentle and hard pressure, I guess that'd be medium pressure.
   
   
6. Flip record and repeat steps 3-5.
   
   
7. Head over to that sink! At an angle, so the water drips off the bottom and not onto the label, rinse off the record with the distilled water. (Don't worry about getting a little water on the label, it will dry if it's only a little, but I wouldn't recommend submerging them, they are only paper after all.) Flip and do both sides.
   
   
8. Now have another (dry) Microfiber Cloth ready on a flat surface, put a paper towel down on top of the cloth. Lay newly cleaned record down onto towel, take another paper towel and lay it flat on the record, pat dry.
   
   
9. Take a mixture (I use 35/65) distilled water and Isopropyl and spray it onto the record (I use four squirts from a smaller bottle).
   
   
10. Run a Lens Cloth around the record, again from inside out. This will help dry the record thoroughly and not scratch it up or leave fibers like a paper towel would.
    
    
11. Flip and repeat steps 9+10.
    
    
12. Lay newly cleaned record on sleeve somewhere to air dry any parts that may still be a tiny bit damp (label, etc) or my favorite, play your shiny new record.
    
    I've found this to be the simplest and most cost effective way to clean my records without buying anything special. I already had everything I needed around the house and it truly works wonders. I got a Tribe record for .99 cents, they said it was in terrible condition, skips, noise, the works. Took that sucker home, put it through my system, and it's almost like a brand new record, plays wonderfully.
    
    Whenever I bring a used record home I wash it. If I take out a record, put it on, there's surface noise, and a quick micro wipe down doesn't do the trick I'll give it a clean, usually 'cleans' the audio right up.
    
    Sorry this is so wordy, use method at your own risk, be gentle, records are friends. Easy Listening!

I love my AeroPress. I have a chemex for larger brews, but I have yet to find something that replicates the amazing flavor that I get out of my method of AeroPressing. v60, French Press, drip. . .Tried them all. There are some rules that I abide by for my brew.
First off: METAL SCREEN FILTER! Never paper!
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY/
That's mine that I bought in 2010, still working great! I don't like paperfilters in any brew method.

Second: do full cup brews in it, Not concentrations. No dilution.

Here's how it goes:

1. 18 grams of coffee, slightly larger than table salt grind
   
   
2. Put the plunger in the very tip top of the aeroPress and then invert the unit so it's sitting on the plunger.
   
   
3. Add the ground coffee to the brewing chamber.
   
   
4. Add 100 grams water, quick stir (5-10 seconds)
   
   
5. Add another 150 grams of water (250g grand total, it will barely fit in the brew chamber)
   
   
6. Screw on the screen/cap.
   
   
7. Flip onto the top of a cup
   
   
8. Carefully remove the plunger (tilting it to the side helps).
   
   
9. Add another 50 grams of water (300 grams grand total now)
   
   
10. Put the plunger back and plunge for 20-30 seconds.
    
    Done. No dilution, no concentration. That's one cup of coffee, and if you have quality beans it will be amazing. Variations I tend to go by:
    
    For some African coffees (Kenyans, Ethiopian, and even Sumatrans), I might not even plunge, that metal screen filter will let the coffee drip right through and it will preserve the more floral/citrus flavors that I tend to find in those coffees better.
    
    If I do have a medium roast coffee (rare, I like light roasts), I would press very delicately and probably not stir much at all.

I've never regretted it for a second. I have two kids (1 and 4) I wasn't sure if the white dash would be broght/ distracting but it's not at all and I love it so much. Also EVERYONE thinks it's awesome. Plus it cleans very very well.

I use chemical guys CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-yEZDbPHFR6W5

Works like a magic. I just spray on microfiber and whip down a few times a month. KEEP THE WHITE😎

1. most of the time frost=THC more the better
   
2. not really many side effects from bud, any smoking has the potential to cause issues if you have an chronic lung issues, so vaping or eating edibles is suggested
   
3. glass and acrylic is based on your opinion, glass taste better and I don't think that heating and inhaling plastic is good, glass all day.
   
4. grinders are cheap and make packing/loading pieces faster, but not necessary, sometimes its fun to break up sticky bud for the texture.
   
5. to properly roll a blunt or joint just buy one of these at your local shop, some hand roll, most hand roll blunts most of the time and tons of youtube clips how to do it lol
   
   Good luck, be safe, stay smart, and don't drive while blazed. :) toke on

I really need to write up a blog post about this, but I have a super easy way to store hops vacuum sealed. This short of it is:

1. This guy for the little hand vacuum pump.
   
   
2. The FoodSaver regular mouth jar sealer attachment.
   
   
3. A set of quart mason jars.
   
   Put the hops in the jar, attach the lid and jar sealer, hold the hand pump over the sealer hole, and pump for about 15 seconds. The jar should now have an air-tight seal, just toss it in the freezer and enjoy fresh hops year 'round. 1 quart holds ~0.5 lbs of pellet hops.
   
   The benefit of this method is that you don't have to shell out ~$100+ for a FoodSaver + attachments. If you already have mason jars you'll only need the hand pump and attachment, which will run you ~$15.

Answers.

I mostly vape. I also have a bong. I don't usually smoke canons/cones. I can roll by hand, and do, if I'm rolling something big, but for just myself and my girlfriend, I just use the RAW 1 1/4 papers and roller with the cellulose filters.

I do not use tobacco. Only smoke straight green.

I do rehydrate now, only in the last few months. Never used to. Always just picked up and smoked right out of the bag.

It does make it easier for rolling a burns a bit smoother IMO.

With the roller, you pack the weed in with a filter, close it shut, spin it and it will compress the weed to the same side/shape as the filter. Once you've rolled and compressed, slide in the edge of a paper, start spinning the roller and it will pull the paper in and wrap it around the weed and filter. Open it and you have a perfect "cigarette" every time.

When rolling cone, larger joints, cross joints, etc... I like to use something to roll the paper with, a pen, a rolled up sheet of white paper, etc... To make it easier to hold the shape. Roll the paper around whatever I'm using and stick it to create a hollow cone/tube. Then I slip a paper filter/tip from the top, down to the bottom and let it unroll itself a bit to fit the open, then fill the weed in from the top. Different people have different methods. My "hand roll" method is a bit unorthodox and "assisted" but a lot easier than fumbling weed everywhere. If that's. It an option, just use the fold in a pack of paper to hold and fill with weed, then tuck/roll a corner and spin it between your fingers, similar to what the roller does.

I prefer to use the rollers though.

If you want to pick some up to try for yourself, here's the links:

The simple RAW 1 1/4roller:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cKLXCbHRW125D

With 1 1/4 papers: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0066WMVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bMLXCbGKAAPZE

With the slim, cellulose filters (a lot easier on the lungs): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XH6QGCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kNLXCb5DB9S6T

Yeah this looks like moderate/severe eczema. Basically looks like my skin when I was a kid.

1. Food allergy testing. People with eczema have overactive immune systems, and the odds are good there is a food allergy issue as well. Better to know sooner rather than later.
   
   
2. Absolutely remove any scented detergents, soaps, perfumes, etc from her life to the extent you can. No fabric softener/dry sheets. Get some wool dryer balls to use as a way to soften fabrics instead of using residue-leaving sheets. No perfume or makeup. Scent free sunscreen.
   
   
3. She needs a steroid cream. There are several formulations (lotion, cream, ointment) and several strengths (typically from 0.05% to 0.25%). You need to find a dermatologist who actually cares enough to prescribe her one. This is a very routine treatment and shouldn't actually be causing you difficulty to find. So I'm very sorry for you and your daughter that this has been difficult so far. Steroid creams can be harmful with intense and long term use, but they will dramatically help flare ups get under control. And, luckily, less dangerous drugs are literally coming onto the market next year (Dupilumab and others).
   
   
4. House cleanliness. She may be having issues from dust, pet dander, mold, etc as well. Regular and intensive vacuuming and dusting and cleaning bed linens is critical.
   
   
5. Lotions need to be scent free and actually moisturizing. Some good ones to try other than the Cerave: Cetaphil, Aveeno (once you've ruled out oat allergy), Avene, and Aquaphor. Some of these brands make eczema-specific formulations that are worth a shot as well.
   
   
6. No more hot showers and lower the frequency of showering as much as you can.
   
   
7. Some home remedies that can help: bleach baths (google to make sure you've got the right ratios), oatmeal baths (you can buy packets of it on Amazon or in drug stores)
   
   
8. Education. Eczema has been called "the scratch that makes the itch." What this means is that sometimes an errant scratch is all it takes to set off an intense event of itchiness that makes you go crazy until you've ripped your skin open. She has to learn to try to resist the itching, because the more you scratch, the more you itch. It's so hard when you're a kid. But my mom would do things like putting gloves or socks on my hands at night to try to help. Benadryl, Zyrtec or other antihistamines may help as well.
   
   If you were doing things a few years ago that made it not as bad, start doing them again. Eczema is sometimes a lifelong affliction (my situation). It's a constant battle against the immune system, so you can't give up things that made a difference
   
   

So I've done a lot of mopping in my day. Over 2 decades combined working at vet clinics and restaurants, both of which are mopped daily.

Throw out the cheap sponge mops, twirl mops and gimmicky mops. Get a mop bucket with a wringer and a mop handle with a detachaable, washable mop head. I prefer the plastic attachment to the metal on the mop. I've seen the metal get all rusty. This is the mop bucket I got.. It's decent, just feels a little cheap compared to the more commercial ones I'm used to. I would rather a bucket like this which is more sturdy, but I was trying to save money.

For mop heads, do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra dollars and get the kind with the loopy ends that are stitched across like this, instead of the ones that are all loose and cut like this.. The loose ones come apart in the washing machine and get all tangled. I like to have 2 mop heads that I rotate.

Now for the mopping. Make sure you sweep/vacuum before mopping. I find dust mops work best for cleaning up fur and hair. Use hot water in the bucket, and the add your cleaner according to the instructions on the bottle. I've used Pinesol/Mr. Clean/Lysol all with about the same results. Thoroughly wet your mop and then ring it out in the mop bucket. Mop your floors in an figure eight pattern going with the grain of the wood for wood/laminate floors. For wood and laminate floors, it's important not to have too wet of a mop. You do not want puddles of water on your floor as this can damage the floors in the long run. Rewet and ring out the mop frequently.

If I have time, I will sometimes go over my floors a second time with something like Pledge floor cleaner. for shine. These cleaners are not meant to be diluted with water, but applied directly to the floors.

This is not the most exciting video, but it shows the two cleaner process I use as well. You may notice that her mop head attachment is rusted, and she does not use the loopy mop head. Obviously it's not wrong, I just prefer slightly different tools. (She does have the better mop bucket).

If you are a visual learner, there are a bunch of YouTube videos with professional cleaners showing good mopping techniques.

Haha coffee is a complex thing, as you're finding out! Part of the fun though, IMO. Thousands of combinations and coffees to try, each different and unique, light roads, dark roasts, blends, etc!

IMO, the Porlex mini is a great grinder...for travel and hiking. You might not mind hand grinding the first week or so, but I've heard after that it can be kinda annoying. Plus there's something super satisfying about electric grinders to me haha.

For me, here in the US, the Porlex is showing at $54 on amazon. At that point, why not just put in the extra $76 to get the Encore which will last you 20-30+ years down the road?

Edit: and for filters, that's personal preference...if you are partial to French Press coffee, then you would like the metal filter more, which lets more oil through and those associated flavors. Paper filters filter out a lot of those oils, and give you a clearer, brighter cup. All personal preference really. I prefer the metal filter, though paper is still great too. Paper are a tiny bit easier, by just popping them in the trash vs having to wash a metal filter. Here is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1409687482&sr=1-1&keywords=aeropress+metal+filter

It's actually not that expensive.

Well, expensive is relative, but you can get it done for a few grand, and you'll have a kick-ass electrical system to boot.


Get the 400 watt kit from renogy (650), the 200 watt kit (450), 4 of these batteries, and wire them up. Insulate van well and add a ~$100 wall unit (5000 btus, energy star) through a rear door.

all told you're looking at about $2000. You can get the components for those kits individually on amazon for cheaper (save a few hundred), or find alternatives that do the same thing without being as shiny (save 500+).

As a rule of thumb, 600 watts of solar to run at all. 800 or so to give yourself some leeway. It might not keep it at 70 degrees exactly, but it'll keep it comfortable enough, and when the temps cool down you'll have enough juice for anything short of an arc welder.

2k for an essential comfort doesn't seem too bad to me. It's an investment, but can definitely be done.

I think those estimates are based on no/shitty insulation. RV's are, as a general rule, insulated like crap (~3-5r). You can easily get 10r in every direction in a Promaster (unless you're super tall)

Basic info:

Ask your friend if they can hook you up with the person they buy from. The quantities you can buy from smallest to largest: 1/8th, 1/4th, 1/2, 1 ounce. Some dealers will sell by the gram, too, but I haven't bought from anybody who deals in amounts that small in a long time. In a lot of cases your friend will end up becoming your middle man because a lot of dealers only like to do business with people they know they can trust. I've been smoking regularly for about 4 years now and I've only ever dealt with one dealer directly because he was dating my friend.

If you still live with your parents a pipe will probably be the easiest vessel to smoke out of. They are easy to conceal, but more effective than joints or blunts. Hit up any local smoke shop or head shop, but there is a little bit of etiquette required at these places. Never refer to what you're buying as a bowl or a bong (if that's what you're going for). Call it a pipe or a water pipe and do not mention marijuana at all. They know what it's for, but they won't say it either. I have seen kids get kicked out of headshops on the spot for making this mistake. If it is a legit shop they can't sell to you if you give them the impression that you are going to use their items for illegal things. Law enforcement routinely tests these places to make sure they aren't violating any laws.

Learning how to roll is a great skill, but not everybody is good at it. I personally suck at rolling so I bought a cigarette roller and it gets the job done.

I wouldn't call myself a cook by any means. Give me a stove, pan, and I'll show you some burnt food ;) I got in to sous vide cooking to take the guess work out cooking. It was one of the best decisions I've made this year. I can cook steak to a perfect 134 degree medium rare steak through and through, it's amazing. Chicken also a favorite of mine too, it comes out so tender and juicy and it just falls apart on your fork.


If anyone's interested in a diy setup on the cheap just buy [ziploc vacuum pump kit]{http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370916055&sr=8-1&keywords=ziploc+vacuum+pump} for 5 bucks. Then get any old thermos ice chest, they work amazing at holding in heat. Just fill the thermos to the desired temp (140 med) water, then check it every 10 minutes or so and add hot water if needed. After 1 hour of cooking you'll have an amazingly tender perfectly cooked steak. Also it doesn't hurt to smoke while your waiting for it cook :)

google around there's a bunch of DIY guides and they'll list cooking time and temps.

This. Don't fuck around trying different kinds, allow my 10 years of trial and error to work in your favor and just get this brand:

http://www.amazon.com/Glass-Flower-Daisy-Screens-Container/dp/B00J1U26AC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

The screens are great at keeping your piece really clean, especially if you have a bong or bubbler. I started using screens when my piece broke like your gf's did, but I use them now in every piece I own.


EDIT: While you're at it, pick up some of this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

It's an all natural cleaner, best I've ever used. After you've used a screen for a couple days and it gets gunky, just toss it in a shot glass with this cleaner. After a week or two, after you've gone through ~10-15 screens, dump the cleaner back into the bottle (it's reusable, like 20x or more reusable) and the screens are clean as when you bought them. It works on pipes, too. Just pour it in at night, and dump it out the next morning, and you piece will be perfectly clean. It's a little expensive, but like I said, it's reusable. I'm a heavy smoker, and I've been using the same bottle for almost a year now.

1. A spliff, by definition (in the US), is a joint with tobacco mixed in. When I used to smoke cigarettes, making a spliff was a great way to use less weed, and many believe smoking tobacco with weed enhances you high a lil
   
   
2. Yes, that's a fair amount for a standard J
   
   
3. There are a lot of great videos on youtube (like this one!), but it basically just takes practice and discovering your own preferred method. However, nowadays I just use this plastic joint roller that actually works perfectly. I get a perfect J every time when I use this
   
   
4. It all depends on how much airflow you want. That said, a J/blunt/spliff works better with ground weed, while picking can get the job done in a moment of desperation haha you would just need to make sure it's rolled well in that case
   
   
5. No difference. Your dad's method is also my preferred method and arguably adds more support for the crutch, but its just a preference
   
   
6. HA! I would actually buy all those strains haha they mean nothing though and the name only roughly associates to a "family" of weed. Many times, strains will be named after the two strains they are made from. Example: Purp OG is just OG Kush mixed with Purple Kush, and so on

There is a product called Barkeeper's Friend. It's very cheap and it is a miracle worker for stainless. Will make it shine like brand new with very minimal effort. This is what you are looking for, but honestly you can get it at most grocery stores or even Home Improvement stores for about $1-2.

As far as cooking with it, just make sure you have enough fat/oil/butter/etc. to keep things from sticking. I like using avocado oil because it has a really high smoke point and a very mild flavor. I can get it pretty hot without smoking and doesn't alter the flavor of whatever I'm cooking. But the great thing about stainless is that no matter how bad you burn things or screw them up, barkeeper's friend will make that sucker shine like new pretty easily.

I purchased this Cooks Standard set 4 years ago for $225 and I've been loving it. No need to worry about using metal or scrubbing hard. I do occasionally use Bar Keepers Friend to polish up the pans for a brand-new look.

If you don't want this brand/set specifically, for sure get at least tri-ply like already mentioned. I think metal pans (vs non-stick coating) are better for all around cooking. Sure, you need to use more oil/butter in your cooking, but moderate amounts of fat are important in a diet. Its highly processed, added sugars, and excess salt you need to worry about.

For when I needed a non-stick, like for eggs, I picked up this T-fal and the non-stick is fantastic, even after a few years of careful use.

I also have a Lodge cast iron dutch oven set which is great for when I use it, but I find it difficult to use effectively. Perhaps I'm just not using the proper techniques, so I don't get much use of it... but I do love to use it when I get around to it. Learning proper care for cast iron is essential - read up before you use (and possibly ruin!)

If you like the feel of a Zippo lighter but want the non leaking and straight butane light look into these Vector Thunderbird Butane Torch Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_piHyDbPFG790Y
awesome setup, victorinox is great stuff. If you want something to add think about flashlights. Save your phone's battery life and are much brighter (if you get the right one) but for me the flashlight is the most useful thing in my edc

TO ALL NOOBS looking to build a tupperdore. Or seasoned guys looking to build yet another: [Here is a great piece of tupperware](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OW0Y000/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1] on amazon. I recently got it and I couldn't be happier. Great size, great seal, and even has a moisture tray (I just put my boveda packs under that).

Here's a great Humidity/temp gauge

For humidity, Boveda packs are the way to go. A lot of the guys here suggest 65% humidity. Mine is at 69% but I may cut back, we'll see.

Also smoke a Drew Estate - Undercrown. Medium bodied cigar with great flavors and a really nice sweet taste throughout. (Sorry if you've seen me say this many times, it's a great cigar haha)

EDIT Here's another, cheaper tupperware option suggested by /u/nicknameisnub

I just got a stainless set for Christmas this past year. I was really excited but also terrified, then I did some research. The key to stainless steel cooking is heat the pan first before adding ANYTHING. I believe the adage is hot pan, cold fat.

So, say you want to cook something over medium-high heat.

• Turn the burner on to that, set the pan on it and forget about it for a few minutes so the pan comes up to heat empty.
  
• Then, add your fat, so butter, olive oil whatever (I don't do this with bacon because the bacon is essentially the fat, just heat and slap in your bacon), let the fat come up to temperature. You want to wait until you see a nice shimmer on the surface for things like olive oil. * Then add your food.
  
  I can even scramble eggs in my skillets and they slide out like nothing. You'll notice after a little practice that these babies are, when used properly, less prone to stick than something with a non-stick coating, unless of course you burn the shit out of it. :)
  
  Also, for cleaning, let the pan cool before you wash it. My favorite things to use are either no scratch Scotch Brite pads or Scotch Brite Dobies but in most cases I don't really need to scrub. That being said, you're going to encounter situations where you burn things or the fat oxidizes on your pans and for this, hands down, get some Bar Keepers Friend. It's the best thing ever.

I mean... 'technically that's not following the letter of the law.

The reality however is that no cop is going to know the difference. If you have a jar with a 2018 date on it, who is that cop to tell you that you're not allowed to smoke year old bud? It's not like the cop is going to sniff your jar labeled as Kush IV and go

> Whoa whoa hold up here champ, this jar says Kush IV but it smells more like Cannatonic, what kind of stunt are you pulling here little man?

He's going to look at the jar, look at your ID and send you on your way.

As for the drying out issue? I'd highly recommend investing in some Boveda's. I'm personally a fan of the 62% ones but the 58% ones work good as well. But they'll keep your bud from drying out for months. They'll also keep it from getting too humid during the summer months. You just drop one in your mason jar (or more really if you want) and it'll maintain the proper rH for you at all times.

They carry them in all sorts of sizes but the 4g or 8g ones are going to be the best for your home use. I personally like the 8g ones simply because they're going to typically last a little bit longer.

Go for rolling papers and $5 roller wheel like this one.

It's a far better value than buying an injector and tubes.

I speak from experience.

The only benefit those tubes have, is you won't burn your fingers nearly as much as rolling your own with Element Rice Papers or paper rolling papers.

Taste is much better on unfiltered, but if you are a newer smoker, start with a mild/gold tobacco or Turkish, as unfiltered is stronger than filtered.

You can buy filters for rolling papers btw, a bag of 200 is usually $3-$5 at amazon.

This is the roller I use.

I bought one of those injectors, the Powermatic Mini, but seriously it sucks. It spits out tobacco on sides all the time, other times it's really noisy, it stinks like a tire (didn't bother me but did bother others).

Biggest flaw of the PM, is definitely when it doesn't fill the center/tip as thickly as the rest of the cig. Then when you go to tap your cig on an ashtray, it will bend the tube.

Really unpleasant experience. Don't even get me started on how much of a joke the PM is at filling 100mm tubes. It basically fails.

If your going the tube and injector route, just get an electric tube injector, as then it won't suck.

I honestly wish I could return my white Powermatic Mini, but I can't because Amazon won't let me.

Learn from my mistakes:

1. Don't use pipe tobacco to roll cigarettes unless you want a harsh, BBQ tasting cig, that is prone to making your lungs feel really heavy when you inhale, especially unfiltered.
   
   
2. Make sure you get a decent rolling tobacco, I really love Peter Stokkebye Turkish, Danish, Stockholm for when I want a kick ;), and I've heard Bali Shag and Drum are good as well.
   
   
3. Buy from a good site, or a nice tobacco store. Lilbrown.com and SJcigars.com are legit, safe, and trusted (had great experiences with both, but I prefer SJCigars). One warning about Lilbrown is they tell you to be 19 or older to order, but then tell UPS to require signature on 'Adults 21 years of age or older', even if your state allows tobacco sale at 18 or 19. It's obviously annoying. UPS is business day only movement btw, so I recommend sjcigars over them, as sj uses USPS (Post Office).
   
   PS: I wish this could be put in the damn wiki!

These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.

Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.

So I guess I post my answers here.

1. This item is good for storing and sharing all of your magical concotions, be it polyjuice potion or love potion. Just be careful to not have too much fun with it.
   
2. This broom made of high quality material will last you forever, and can probably handle a trip to space, so getting around campus should be no problem.
   
3. With a bit of magic, this item can help you defend yourself against the toughest washroom trolls.
   4. A book! And well, it is a book about a non-descript wizard. I could learn some very valuable lessons from it.
   
4. This little number can be used to store your photos from family back home, or your collectible wizard cards from the packs of chocolate frogs you'll find around campus. You can also magic it to protect your lunch from those nasty Primeryns.
   
5. This book is a pretty magical one, and can help you improve your magic dramatically by teaching you how to spell. (hurr, I think I'm punny.)

I bought a ton of hops and have no idea how I will ever get through them unless I make a ton of big IPAs. On hand, I have 1 pound of centennial, columbus, and belma. About 14 ounces of cascade. Maybe 2 ounces of citra, and 4 of simcoe. They take up a lot of room, but not THAT much room. In my side-by-side fridge, they take up maybe a shelf. The centennial are whole hops and are like 2x the size, so you have to take that into consideration.

For storing, they go in the freezer, vacuum sealed. I didn't want to buy a big vacuum sealer, so I bought one of these ziploc hand vacuum pumps as well as a jar vacuum pump valve thing and that way I can do a kind of quick ghetto vacuum seal on bigger hops bags and store the smaller amounts of things in vacuum sealed jars. It's not amazing or as great surely as a regular foodsaver type vacuum, but it's way smaller and cheap, even compared to the foodsaver version of the hand pump.

well, the most important part of this is how thin do you want your paints to be? Most advice on the internet says to aim for "milky" consistency. This results in the paint being just thin enough that it takes multiple coats to apply a color, but not so thin that it just runs off of the model. Something you could do to acquaint yourself with the way this looks is to buy a small bottle of 2% milk, pour it into a plastic cup and use your paintbrush to "paint" it up the sides of the cup. This should give you an idea of what your final goal could be.

As for materials to thin paint with, you can use several different products:

1. Water - very basic.
   
   
2. Water + future floor polish - the floor polish supposedly helps to break the surface tension of the paint, and gives it a gloss coat, but I have little experience with it.
   
   
3. water + Matte Medium - An acrylic medium that does not alter the color and dries into a matte finish. Can be used with water to thin thicker paints, especially artists acrylics. I like to use some combination of this with most of my paints.
   
   
4. water + Glaze Medium - another medium, does not alter the color, but gives the paint a glossy sheen. Can also be used to make a glaze, similar to a GW Glaze pot.
   
   
5. water + Flow Aid - Flow aid is an acrylic medium that acts similarly to future floor polish, in that it helps to break the surface tension of the paint and let it flow smoother.
   
   
6. water + Flow Aid + Slow-Dri - Using this combo both makes the paint flow smoother off of the brush, as well as increases how long it takes for the paint to dry (both on and off the model!). useful in dry climates or when using some of the more time intensive techniques. Must be used with water, as the slow-dri doesn't work without it.
   
   As you may have noticed, water is a fairly consistent theme. I've hear that you can also use windex + water, but that seems like a waste of a good bottle of windex ;)
   
   Another option, if you are finding it hard to consistently thin the paints, is to use a wet palette. If you keep the wet palette fairly full with water, it will automatically thin down the paint to a certain degree, after which you can add mediums or more water to push it further. It also has the added benefit of keeping the paints wet for an extended period of time. Here is a guide for making your own wet palette to try out: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/Zpt5gLOoldY1

I know this may seem odd, but apparently quite a few people don't know how to do laundry correctly. Here are some pointers for you.

Washing:

• Turn the washer on and let it fill to about 1/4 of the way.
  
• Add detergent and swirl it around with your hand or a piece of clothing. This will help to mix up the water and detergent to get a much better clean. Too many times have I seen people add all their clothes then water then detergent or some other way that isn't correct.
  
• Then add your clothes. Adding clothes should be the last step for washing.
  
• If adding bleach, add it to the little slot that says "bleach". Don't just pour it into the water. There is a reason why there is a special slot for it. When adding bleach right away to the water, you lose some of the bleaching power because bleach breaks down in warm water. IIRC this little bleach slot sends the bleach to the bottom and releases it at certain time during the laundry load. ( I guess it depends on what washer though, so YMMV)
  
  Drying:
  
  
• Get These Dryer Balls and the lavender scent if you want.
  
• When removing your clothes from the washer into the dryer, take the extra few seconds and flap the wet clothes. What I mean by that is, after the wash cycle is done, all your clothes are bunched up into a tight mess due to the spin cycle. When you toss them in your dryer, you should feather them. This helps lower the dry time.
  
• Clean the lint trap! Drying time can be reduced if too much build up occurs. Also it's a fire hazard and gross. It's usually the little slide out filter thing on the bottom of where the door is.
  
• Once a year check the exhaust duct as well. This is the silver shiny hose coming from the back of your dryer. It can also build up stuff that passes the lint trap filter. I say once a year, but I think you can let it go for a few years without much worry. I just like my things to last so I clean it every year and inspect it.
  
  Pro-Tips:
  
  
• Don't let your clothes sit in the washer for days. Depending on your water type can determine how long you can leave your clothes sit in the washer after they are done. I try not to leave mine in for more than a few hours, but I know sometimes you can forget about them. This is typically where that musty smell will come from. Even though you just washed your clothes, if you let them sit in the washer for a few days, they become damp and rank. When you dry them, the smell is baked into the clothes. Then you gotta rewash them to get the smell out. And trust me, there aren't many girls/guys that like a dank musty mold smell if you're trying to attract a mate. Also, you're friends will be like "damn, that dude smell like a mushroom".
  
  I've cut my drying time in half for a full load of work clothes by doing this (yay for saving on my electric bill!). The Dryer Balls help to air out the clothes and move them about in the dryer. Also, they don't ruin your towels and clothes. I'm no animal activist, but if you look up info about dryer sheets, most are made with animal fat and chemicals. Over time, this is what can cause your towels to not be so absorbent. I have actually conducted a test with this, and so far so good. New towels (a year old) are still very plush and absorbent vs. the older towels I used dryer sheets with. There is plenty of info about this though, so don't just take my word for it (cue LeVar Burton)
  
  I can't format this apparently and am stupid for such reasons. :(

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

Ey! this might be a late reply and what i am about to say may have already been written but what i did to keep my cabbage good was to use Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way Humidity Control, 8 gram - 10 Pack to keep the humidity in check and so that mold does not grow on your delicacy. for storing i used Ball Wide Mouth Pint 16-Ounce Glass Mason Jar with Lids and Bands. hopefully this helps out and keeps your buds good to go for a long time to come! hope you have a great day!

First off, to answer your question:

That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.

​

Second, you don't want those batteries:

You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.

I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.

​

This is more in line with what you want, most likely:

Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

​

EDIT:

So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.

Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.

​

EDIT 2:

So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.

I had the beige cloth in my 2015 and had to clean them a lot. Water left spots on those seats! My favorite product I found is this cleaner from The Car Guys.

I bought it mostly for the dash, but came to find it worked great on the seats as well. Some set in stains came out super easy. Has a really light smell too, so doesn’t leave your car smelling of cleaner.

Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451352679&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+clear#Ask

As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.

Yes yes and yes... I use a butane soft flame insert for mine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IRLBUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1404182091&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 I love it but I'm a sucker for soft flames and cigars. I believe it is actually designed for pipes but I really like it. I've also used a Vector butane torch insert http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008Z8W714/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1404182091&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40 I love having the feel and weight of a zippo with the refinement of a butane torch. Either of those options will treat you right, you just have to pick your type of flame :) Cheers!

I use one of those RAW Rolling Machines as I very rarely smoke joints but sometimes they're necessary for parties or events. My hand rolling technique is trash and they come out looking like a joint from the 70's so this setup is pretty great for uniform size and shape results.

Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.

Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488126321&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+solar+battery AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?

Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?

Do you think

Loose filters can be a number of problems. Too small of a filter being the easiest thing to blame it on. If you roll straights it can be hard to make the filter stay in, I usually try to keep the filter rolled as tightly as possible and pinch it between my fingers when rolling so it will expand to fit the paper when I let go, I sometimes rip gum tips off papers and use the glue to keep filters in when I'm having trouble. Alternatively if you roll straights, I find rolling cones really makes the filter sit better, as well as smoking better. If all else fails a raw rolling machine (I bought mine couple years back at my local headshop couple years back for something like 4$, and its never failed me) is a great investment for really cheap and wont break on you anytime soon. If you load one of these with about a .8 of rolling batch and a pretty fat filter it will roll you something that is extremely similar to a brand name somke in both look and feel. Good luck and happy rolling.

With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/hour@12v, meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).

Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.

The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).

That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.

Thanks OP! Something I haven't seen mentioned here yet: wool dryer balls, for those who can't or don't wish to use dryer sheets. These were the first result from Amazon.com but I would imagine they are easily found at Target, Walmart, etc.

My mom switched from dryer sheets to wool balls a couple years ago and sings their praises to anyone who will listen. For her it was less of a clothing care/skin sensitivity issue than a cost-effectiveness/chemical-elimination one. A household of 2-3 could easily get by with a set of 4, using 2 per load and rotating them. Anyone who misses fragranced dryer sheets could scent the wool balls with a few drops of essential oil (let it absorb for a day or two so your clothes don't end up with oil stains cooked into them).

Just a thought! What a great thread :)

I asked my mobile service tech and he reminded this but I haven't tried it yet: CarGuys Super Cleaner - The Most Effective All Purpose Cleaner Available on The Market! - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N9gaCb5ST6WSK

If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.

I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.

There are three things you need: Air tight container, humidity control and light tight. You can buy expensive light tight containers if you want to keep the jars out on your shelf. I keep mine in the dark so I use clear glass jars.

I have flower I have kept this way for 6 months and it really worked for me, last week I smoked some quad Heirba Apple pie that I forgot about, that I had purchased over 6 months ago and the terp smell was just as strong as I recall it being back then.

I like these for half oz or less:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001D9FQNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the ounces I have I just bought a larger flip top mason style jar except it has a wire clip mechanism to close the lid, I bought those at the dollar store for $2.

I also used boveda packs mostly the medium size 8g

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also rehabilitated a number of dry weed purchases so I bought these hygrometers which I do move around in my jars just to make sure the humidity is under control. You dont need one in every jar but when you buy an ounce or more of quads its just another little way to protect your investment

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07ML5H1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BTW, I dont care what anyone says, I have rehabilitated some dried out boveda packs by putting them in a bundle of good, new boveda packs for a few days. Also if you have a lot of really dry flower, it can dry out the boveda pack so I will put a piece of damp (with distilled water) paper towel in the jar with the boveda pack for a day or two and that will equalize the humidity (this is where the hygrometer really comes in handy)

My setup is pretty cheap and considering I buy enough flower to keep me stocked (with allot to choose from) for months its well worth the investment. I have also not bought any new boveda packs, if they are sealed in the jar then they dont lose their function at all.

Hi girls! So I bought a black Gucci Soho Disco from Joy about a year ago. Honestly do not love the quality because when compared to an auth. the leather isn't as supple/buttery, and a well used auth. sort of falls into itself whereas my version is still super stiff and boxy, even after I've used it a lot. I'm not even sure if it's real leather, but it just goes with SO many outfits, so I still wear it quite a bit.

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to try to condition the leather on your reps to make them look more authentic/improve the look of the leather? I was looking on Amazon and found this, which has a bunch of good reviews but wanted to know if anyone had any better suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519753442&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=leather+conditioner&psc=1

Thanks so much!!!

I got you.

Container like this but this same one can be found cheaper at Target. You may need to use a free ship to store pick up option.

At least one of these, but two can stack in the above container.

A digital hygrometer. I use this guy.. Feel free to shop around obviously. Avoid analog hygrometers and make sure to calibrate it before trusting it. Techinally you could get by without one, but it's nice having the confirmation.

Two of these (65% for tubberware, imo). The four pack is $6 more if you want extra, buy two tupperwares or whatever.

Holy crap, I didn't know they had metal filters! That's amazing!

For those that are wondering, this one and this one are the two highest reviews that I've found.

I'll be picking one of these up as soon as possible, though I've always managed to get good extractions out of my Aeropress following this guide minus the swirling at the end, and it always works out pretty great. It's true though, the paper feels like it detracts from the overall body / "creaminess" of the cup, compared to other methods I've tried.

Not for long, though. =)

Also, as far as the care of your clothing goes, I'd really recommend getting away from store bought detergents and fabric softeners. They're full of chemicals and are harsh on your clothing and hard on your washing machine. I've fallen in love with using soap nuts, distilled white vinegar, and wool dryer balls to do all my laundry.

Soap nuts: http://www.amazon.com/NaturOli-Berries-Seedless-Cleaner-Processed/dp/B001DU4XPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238438&sr=8-1&keywords=soap+nuts

Wool dryer balls: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Eco-friendly-All-Natural-Softener--Great/dp/B00GA9P5P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238492&sr=8-1&keywords=wool+dryer+balls

And a great stain remover: http://www.amazon.com/Bi-O-Kleen-Bac-Out-Eliminator-Foaming-Action/dp/B005P0UYDS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238539&sr=8-2&keywords=biokleen

Then, I just keep a big container of white vinegar around to use as a fabric softener. If you like you can also add whatever essential oils you like to either the vinegar or onto the dryer balls (or both). Orange oil is my favorite, and I like this bigger bottle: http://www.amazon.com/NOW-Foods-Orange-Sweet-ounce/dp/B0019LPL8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238679&sr=8-1&keywords=NOW+orange+oil

I've found this saves money, water, energy, the whole shebang. I also have really sensitive skin, so switching to this way of doing laundry has really benefitted me all around.

• I bought a Kind Creations coil, they're a local glass blower in Fort Collins, CO. However, I don't think they make these anymore, on account of the glue used to seal the glycerine in the tube eventually wears away when frozen and thawed multiple times, leading to cheap, but annoying repairs.
  
  
• This was $300 for the beaker and the coil, but most cost more.
  
  
• In total with the coil on it's about 18" tall...I think. I'll have to measure it when I get home.
  
  
• You can hit it when it's not frozen, but then it's essentially just a normal bong. When it's not frozen the coil doesn't do anything. I keep mine in the freezer all the time though, so I can't say I have much experience with it.
  
  
• This is a loaded question. Yes and no. It's the smoothest piece I've ever hit, hands down. However, it takes a lot of maintenance. When it condenses the smoke, it removes some of the tar. This sticks and it gets dirty really fast (keep in mind that mine has two, smaller coils instead of one large one, so that factors in to how fast it gets clogged). I personally love cleaning my glass; it's therapeutic to me. But, if smoked consistently, the coil itself needs a cleaning about once a week. If you don't like cleaning, or you don't have consistent access to somewhere you can clean, I would say stay away.
  
  
• I know you didn't ask, but one thing I've found that makes it much easier to keep clean in the activated carbon filter (attached to the bowl). It filters out almost all tar and acts as an ash catcher, which is much needed for this bong. I've also found that Grunge Cleaner works the best out of anything I've tried for cleaning glass.

If I could tell my family I smoked and just had to worry about fixing the smell I’d just invest in getting a smell proof case and using mason jars to store my bud. There’s also reusable cleaner for bongs and water, like peace water, that keeps the bongs relatively clean. Keep your pieces clean and your mom happy. I can only dream of the day I can tell my parents.


Grudge Off
Grunge Off Super Soaker Glass Pipe Cleaner, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LURISY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UPx6Cb3JT8HV9

Behold the power of stainless steel! http://www.amazon.com/Kaffeologie-Filter-Stainless-Coffee-AeroPress/dp/B00A1GVVMY no more paper and it lets that sweet sweet oil pass through unlike the paper stuff. I highly recommend trying out the aeropress world champion recipe! Ofcourse with good beans comes great drinkability! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GWM8CS/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 also recommend blue horse kona its expensive though :/

After painting, I recommend you spray a glosscoat, apply decals, and then spray a final glosscoat; imo I think Sinanjus look better with a glossy shiny finish, but that's just me.

If you have an airbrush or handbrushes, I recommend Future Floor (previously Pledge) as the first (before decals) and last layer of glosscoat.

If that's not your style, there's spray cans as well, such as Mr. Hobby Topcoat.

There's much more info in the sidebar, so if you really want to make it look good, refer to those links if you're on a computer. Really helpful stuff!

Rubbing alc + salt to get rid of the bulk of the garbage. After that, I really can't recommend Grunge Off enough. This is the best cleaner on the market, you really won't find many glass aficionados speak out against it sans the fact it might remove a label if you rub it against it enough. If you can't get grunge off this works well too which has the same active ingredient limonene-d (which is just a terpene from oranges). Soak your pieces over night, depending on your tube if its not a pipe you can get a glass stopper instead of a bowl so you can fill it to the top. You can reuse the stuff quite a bite before having to buy more. It's maybe 5 - 10 minutes of extra work every night for perfectly clean like you bought it new glass (with that new-shine look because it removes hard water).

http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-SW-250i-FR-Everholder-FURemover-Broom/dp/B000EFDOOA/

I got this as a psuedo-joke, but little did I know that it would be AMAZING for cleaning up the carpet of my love's hair before vacuuming. The rake just takes hair, sticks it to the rubber spikes, and catches every clump you would miss with your eyes. It really is awesome, haha.

For best maintenance of cannabis moisture (think cigar humidor) get a glass Mason jar and throw a 62% RH Boveda pack in there and your buds well stay fresh for months. The packs are like $10 for 12 and they last a long time so it's a no-brainer purchase. They are two-way humidity control, so they will both absorb moisture to dry out buds that are too wet (to a certain degree) and release moisture to hydrate dried out buds.

[edit]
Amazon link to 12x 62% Boveda Packs with Prime, $13.49
Amazon link to 10x 62% Boveda Packs with free regular shipping, $8.99

Seriously, buy them if you like fresh cannabis, they're so cheap and so effective you'll wonder why you didn't use them before.

Sounds like a good answer. I'm assuming that you can't go wrong with either, as the design is fairly simple/similar. My only regret for not going with aliengear was the price so far, but I'm perfectly happy with my galco.

Something you might be interested in:

http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0

Try it with a microfiber cloth like these (that's just an example so you can see what I mean lol). I've used the simple brand with the microfiber cloths and it gets the makeup off pretty well. What I find works best is to use the cloth and baby oil first. Baby oil+microfiber cloth gets off EVERYTHINg, even waterproof stuff. It's amazing and won't clog pores or anything like that. I use the micellar water after to cleanse and get rid of the oil.

For anyone looking for the most affordable vacuum sealing option, the Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit is a handheld pump selling for under $10 $5 on Amazon. Works great and the replacement bags are as cheap and easy to find on Amazon (quart is sandwich baggy sized, perfect for panties. gallon is great for shirts and large items).

Here's an amazon link for Future Floor Polish.


They changed the label a little while back, so it doesn't say Future on it anymore, but it is the same product.

I use this stuff all the time, and it is very effective at tightening joints. If robot disassembly isn't your thing, you can even use an eyedropper or pipette to apply it directly into pinholes and joints.

After curing for 24 hours, even a small amount worked into a joint can make a huge difference.

An extra bonus is that it is fairly water-soluble, so you can undo a tightening or clean off excess with just a little water.

Cleaning:

I've gotten cleaning down to two products: Bar Keepers Friend and 7th Generation Powdered Dish Soap. These products are basically magic, if you allow them time to work. BKF works on things that are baked or burned in and for use on metal (except aluminium) and glass. Sprinkle BKF over the area to be cleaned, wet it until it's paste like, then walk away for 30 minutes or so. When you come back, re-wet it if it's not still wet, and use a paper towel to polish off the stain. Usually comes right up with very little elbow grease. Same principle applies to 7thGen. Fill your kettle/carboy/whatever with water and add about a tablespoon of powder per gallon of water. Let it sit overnight. I've yet to find grime that will stand up to it. It's magic works on a combination of what is basically oxyclean free and enzymatic cleaners. Much in the same way enzymes break up starch in malt to make it into sugar, these enzymes break up proteins and junk to release it from whatever is clinging to it. The only gotcha here is the enzymes have a shelf life, so you can't let it sit around forever. If you use it in other household cleaning, you can go through it at a fair pace and always have an opportunity to freshen up your supply.

Sanitation:

StarSan is clearly everyone's favorite sanitizer, but I do worry a bit about it's effectiveness over the long term with organisms building up resistance to it. I currently try to cycle in Saniclean every now and again, which has some of the same ingredient as StarSan, but uses a slightly different chemical to help keep the foam down while still sanitizing. I'd love to find out if someone has found another product as effective as these two that isn't iodine or chlorine based. In the mean time, to help keep things shaken up, I use heat where ever possible to add in an additional layer of sanitation. A pro brewer once told me cycling 180F water through your system for 15 minutes will kill just about anything you have to worry about. Seems solid and I like the fact it isn't an additional chemical.

Sterilization:

I only really use this for canning wort right now, but a pressure cooker is a nice thing to have. I've also been known to use tyndallization on items that might not quite make it through the pressure cooker. If anyone is regularly sterilizing things, I'd be interested in hearing what you're sterilizing, what method you're using (heat, steam, gas, ultrasonic, etc.), and why.

edit : Fixed the linking I think.

I love to roll them! I got an MFLB so I don't smoke much anymore. It feels like I'm wasting it if I smoke it alone. It's so fun to roll them. I'm not very good but when it comes out nice, I'm content. There's also those rollers that help you out and cheap too. I've never used it but like I said, rolling is fun.

Here's a link to the "rolling machine"

http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B001GPJY64/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1289816942&sr=8-8

I use Aeropress daily. Here's what I've come up with as the most consistent. (Not sure what kind of coffee you enjoy; I almost exclusively drink Ethiopian Yirgacheffe -- may make a difference)

Filter: I recommend a metal filter, particularly this one. Vastly improved flavor and mouth feel while being easier to plunge.

Weights: 300g water to 18g coffee.

Grind: ~10 (pretty fine) on a Breville Smart Grinder.

Temp: 205F

Use "inverted Aeropress method" with stopper at the 1 position to start. Fill water to the 2 position and allow 45 second bloom with n initial 10 seconds of stirring. Pour water up to the 4 position and finish with a nice and slow 30 second plunge.

Damn tasty, every time.

i have an aeropress, and ill be happy to answer any questions.

it works well and you really are able to control your coffee perfectly. But the filters are a bit thick and soak up a lot of oil (my favorite part) so i would reccomend a metal filter (i just bought mesh wire from home depot and cut a circle. the one on amazon is 10 bucks, and im cheap). http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=pd_sim_k_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GTY25R561NQ7XXDB5MT

also aeropress takes roughly the same amount of time to make 1 cup as it does for 4 cups, which is roughly the same amount of time it takes to prep 1 caraffe of french press. I wouldnt advise it if youre making a lot of coffee.

Cleanup is super fucking easy though.

So this may not be the perfect solution, but this worked-

​

• disconnect the horn's fuse in the fuse panel
  
• scrub over and over using blue shop towels using Car Guys Premium Super Cleaner*
  
• *I had tried that before as it's now my go to cleaner instead of Armor All - but prior attempt, I was using a chamois but it just flaked some of the chamois (again, this wheel was super sticky! Like fly trap sticky!)
  
• I used about 7 shop towels total
  
• Covered the towels in the cleaner, and just scrubbed until there was no more black residue coming off- I imagine that's years of Armor All that came off
  
• Because the horn wasn't working, didn't worry about being delicate
  
  ​
  
  Results- not perfect, but much much much better
  
  End result- PHOTO

Super simple. Just get a microfiber cloth or old rag or whatever, some non-abrasive metal polish like Flitz or, I like to use this stuff
Apply polish to cloth and just scrub until it is all shiny and sexy. Alternatively, you can use a dremel with a buffing attachment, but I really enjoy polishing by hand.

That's all there is to it, other than taking a toothpick and getting into the grip serrations to scrape out the years of accumilated Isreali soldier finger crud.

The best method to do this is to get a new pencil, and your ciggies, then lightly roll your fingers on the cigarette, until the tobacco falls out. then continue it. If you roll the cig between your fingers too hard, the paper becomes soft. Then grind your weed. This does not work even half as well if you break it up. Use the cigarette to pick up the weed and tap the filter on a table to get it to fall tot he bottom. Do this until about 1/4 of the tube it filled. Stick the unsharpened pencil, lead side in, into the cig (it should fit perfectly) and carefully pack down. Continue this until you have what you want. Then break off the filter and smoke up. It will take fucking forever to do this though. This used to be my go-to method. Now I only do it if I want to take a couple of joints into a concert.

The easier thing to do if you can't roll is to go on Amazon and get a zig zag roller. And then buy 1.25 papers at a gas station or something. Then you can pop out perfect little joints. And there's a booklet included with the roller that teaches you exactly how to use it.

1. The last time I needed to buy something, I bought it online. It was so cheap. 14" stainless steel food tongs for only Rp. 7000? Yes, please. You get what you pay though, the tongs were pretty thin, but more than enough for my needs. I've seen similar quality products for more than twice the price in physical stores. If I buy offline, I usually buy from ACE or from some stores in ITC Mangga Dua.
   
   
   
   
2. House warming gifts, maybe. Weddings, no, we usually give money.
   
   
3. Gifts for someone you know likes to cook, I suppose. I bought a Victorinox kitchen knife for my mom once haha.
   
   
4. It really depends on the person.
   
   Anyways, I'm still looking for a place that sells Bar Keepers Friend. If anyone here knows where to buy one, please let me know :D Cheers.

I've had really good luck with Grunge Off. It's a cleaner made with citrus oil and unlike the iso method or Orange Chronic, this is meant to soak your pieces in. If you take the bowl and soak overnight it should clean a lot of the build up away. Rinse with hot water. You may have to rinse it out and soak again the following night but it will eventually break down any build up you have on there. It smells great to! Amazon link below so you can see what it looks like but don't buy from there because that price is stupid! I think i pay $18 a bottle. It's reusable many, many times.

https://www.amazon.ca/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_121_tr_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZM0MZ1HD5MKQ514V37SH

​

And once you get it clean use a few drops of Rez Block in the water to prevent it from getting dirty again. This stuff works wonders!!!

https://www.amazon.ca/RezBlock-Concentrate-420-Science-Cleaner/dp/B00C6L66CC

​

Good luck!

Like the other guy said, spoon pipes are alot less of a hassle, but if you insist on joints here's my suggestions:

1. RAW/Zigzag
   
   
2. [This wan] (https://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8)
   
   
3. You can make your own easily with business cards and what not but if you want go with RAW filters.
   
   
4. Mason Jars FTW
   
   
5. Mason Jars FTW
   
   
6. Weed

Looks like it could be some hard water staining. I agree with the barkeepers friend. it will bring it back to life. it won't even take much scrubbing to clear that up. You can get it at Walmart or most grocery stores.

You want the powder cleanser. the liquid cleaner is shite! this is what it looks like. it's really cheap like a dollar something per canister.

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992/

Also the towel acts to break up wet clothes and allow air to circulate around the clothes. A better tip is to use dryer wool balls like these from Amazon for every load. You can save almost half the drying time and that means saving money too!


Wool Dryer Balls by Smart Sheep 6-Pack, XL Premium Reusable Natural Fabric Softener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GA9P5P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uZBuDbWB131A4

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

> The aeropress makes coffee that is smoother than a french press, but not as bold. I think this is due to the paper filter stripping out oils and coffee ground sediment that the french press leaves in. I like bolder coffee, so I use the french press more these days.

You might want to give a metal S Filter a shot, it allows oils through in the same way a french press does, although you're not going to get the fines at the bottom of the cup that you do a french press. I switch between AeroPress with paper filters, AeroPress with S Filter, and V60 pourover depending on my mood and how much time I have. Each has their pros and cons, but the S Filter can help deliver a bolder cup via the AeroPress.

On the topic of using them for beer, you don't really want to brew hot coffee and let it cool to add it to the beer. When hot brewed coffee cools, you lose volatile flavors and aromas and the character in the beer would end up lacking. You're much better off either brewing a cold brewed concentrate (which you could filter through an AeroPress if you want, although it could be a hassle) or dry beaning the beer.

Real talk, I've been using some weird rubber pet hair broom (like this thing) for the last 5 or 6 years. It's far and away the best snow removal tool i've ever used. I can easily reach every part of the various cars/ trucks I've used it on. It's like a super soft rubber so it's basically impossible to scratch anything and it leaves everything squeaky clean/dry and snow doesn't get stuck in the bristles so you can clear like a foot of snow off your entire car without ever having to mess with it.

I still have a normal ice scraper/brush thing that i keep in my car for actual ice though.

They can help with that too, but they can also be helpful when there is too much humidity since the packets are a 2 way humidity control.

I haven’t used them either, but they seem to get really great reviews from other growers as well!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9NKqDbM8YDGAS

Here are my two favorite methods:

---

15g, Just-below medium grind

• Inverted method
  
• Put some hot water in your mug
  
• 96˚ water
  
• 15g
  
• Add 30g of water, stirring (like a canoe -- not too fast) for 10s
  
• Add 170g of water and let it sit for 60 seconds.
  
• Empty the mug
  
• Saturate the filter and attach it to the press with the cap.
  
• Flip the aeropress and press for 20 - 30 seconds.
  
  ---
  
  30g, Coarse grind
  
  
• Boil your water to 81˚ and fill your mug
  
• Inverted AeroPress
  
• 30 grams of beans
  
• 120 grams of water
  
• Stir for 10 seconds
  
• Set the filter (paper) and set the AeroPress on the pourer
  
• Wait 40 seconds
  
• Press for 20 seconds
  
• Add 110 grams of water (or whatever best fits your preference)
  
  ---
  
  If you like more of the natural oils in your cup, check out either of the SS filters.
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1GVVMY (I have this one)
  
• http://ablebrewing.com/products/disk-coffee-filter
  
  The Aeropress isn't as forgiving as some other methods, but once you get a good process nailed down, you'll have the perfect cup every time.

Most mink oil will do. I have had great success with this, and this, it also helps that it is free shipping with amazon prime.

So I'm not exactly sure what you mean by water pillow. However, if it looks like this then it's probably a Boveda pack, which are very popular humidification devices, and for good reason. They take the guess work out; you just throw one in with your sticks. I'm guessing that's what they included with your shipment, and it's what myself (along with most everyone else here) would recommend you use to humidify your cigars in a humidor.

So to answer your question, yes, you're fine to leave them in a bag with a boveda, if that's what you have. But if you are buying/have bought 50 sticks, I'd recommend the upgrade to a tupperdor.

Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I

This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.

if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.

[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]

Unless that's anodized aluminum, you can clean it up to look nearly brand-new with some barkeeper's friend. Don't get it from Amazon, though. You can get it cheap from your local supermarket, in the cleaning products aisle. This stuff is pretty much mandatory in restaurant kitchens. It's surprising how many people don't know about it for home use, so their pots and pans get pretty tarnished over the years, especially stainless steel and copper.

I say "nearly" brand-new because there's naturally going to be some scratches and dings. But that's what gives these things character :)

I got some car guys super cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF

Works well. Recently found some blue jean stain transferred on the driver seat and it wiped off easily with some dog wipes I had in the car (probably the same as baby wipes, but 10x more expensive, haha).

Enjoy the X! I almost went there, and I think eventually I’ll have one too :)

Grunge Off is the best cleaner, plus its super cheap because its reusable. The bottles I have i've been using for 4 months are pitch black and still clean my pieces like new.

1)I disagree. I tried 6 different flat topcoats, and by far the FLat Acrylic Crystal clear is the best deal. For $5 bucks you get a can that is more than enough to finish 2-3 HGUC kits.

Name one other flat coat for roughly the same price/amount ?

2) For decals you should buy Pledge Multipurpose Polish (rebranded Future Floor wax). That bottle will last you the rest of your Gunpla career. All you have to do is brush it on where you are going to put your decals, let it dry for a bit and then apply your decals. Another trick (that I did with better results) was you can put your decals on first and then brush on the future floor wax afterwards. This seals in the decal even better, hides the decal edges even better and GURANTEES that your decals will not silver. The only negative to brushing on clear coat is that there is a slight "edge" to the clear coat if you look at it at certain angles.

After that apply your Flat coat as usual

If you get a pack of the RAW filter tips (not the perforated ones, the brownish ones that are usually like $1 -THESE) and roll it up REALLY tight itll fit inside the condenser. Stick it inside

After that, take a Qtip and clip off one of the cotton tops. Use the stick then to puh the filter through the dynavap. When it comes out, the filter paper will have pushed most of the oil and absorbed very little.

To clean the bowl piece use any thin piece of metal, some pocket knives have good parts on them for that.

EDIT: Then sandwich the wax with bud or AVB

Fiber Clothe and some Water not much Water you don't want to Damage your 3DS use about what your would use to clean off a controller or a TV Dont use Rubbing Alcohol this can Dry out your Screens and Plastic on your 3DS and make your Screen Foggy. Using the Fiber Clothe should also remove any Grease from your hands as long as you use a little bit of water on it. You can get a Fiber Clothes Super Cheap on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

You can Use the Subscribe and Save to Save a little but of $ once they Ship you Can Cancel your Subscribe and Save and you will still get them cheaper :)

So easy and so worth it. When you install an aux battery, change the power source for your van's inverter to it.

Isolator Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0

AGM Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C or Something comparable

Voltage monitor (very helpful!): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_3

100A fuse

2-4 gauge wire

terminal ends

A voltimeter is very helpful in finding a wire that runs > 12v while the car is running. Have one, buy one, borrow one, etc. This was really the only challenging part of the installation because you have to test multiple wires for voltage.

Once you're done installing it you'll be able to comment on these posts and tell people how wonderful and easy it is too!

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s-GvCbG820P3M

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4m10CbSFZ3KAD

I've been loving this:

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/

If you want pourover (though you specified you're not crazy about it), go with the Hario V-60 ceramic. Pick up one of these for expert level pouring. I also agree that the aeropress is another great (and easy-to-clean) option for a one-cup operation. For improved flavor, there is a reusable stainless filter that allows more oils through (versus paper filters). You can also pour instant coffee directly into your mouth. You're welcome.

Saddle soap is soap + oils. If the leather you're working on is dirty, you should use saddle soap (or a different leather soap) to begin with, and then switch to just a conditioning (oil) product and keep applying layers until it stops soaking it up quickly. The soap is relatively mild, but should be avoided when unnecessary.

I currently use Lexol conditioner because it's cheap and easy to find locally (I was out and needed some STAT), but I've heard great things about Leather Honey and I've also gotten good results from mink oil. Honestly, the brand isn't nearly as important as just doing it regularly.

Anything "RAW" in that case. Without spending too much money I'd suggest a raw rolling tray, raw papers (1 1/4 size is what most people roll with), and some tips! If he has a difficult time rolling his own joints you could always get him a rolling machine. They're pretty cheap.

Rolling machine

Tray

I cannot vouch for the machine, but everything else is pretty basic. Pretty much everyone uses Raw papers these days. I prefer variety myself, but yeah.

It's super strain dependent. The lowest I've gotten is 10% and that's from a single strain. Average is 15%+. Humidity is a big thing too. With these and dialing the time and temps down on certain high yielding strains you can easily get 20%+. Gorilla Glue #4 and Blueberry have been my biggest yielders so far(pics are a couple weeks old but still using the same flower today). If you tell the people at the dispensaries that you're going to press it they might be able to direct you towards better yielding strains too. And instead of using an ounce or more just testing times and temps, you might want to just press small buds one at a time, checking out the color, stability, yield, flavor for like single dab presses. Then you find what works the best without having to buy an ounce of each strain just to experiment.

Hello /u/epitome59. Welcome to the sub.

Seasoning a desktop humidor takes time, up to two weeks. So first thing is to be patient. Having it at 60 after 2 days is not bad.

To help the process, get some distilled water. Dip your finger in it and run it along the seal of the lid. The lid is the most common spot for a leak. As the water is absorbed, it will slightly swell the lid and better seal it.

Is the humidor a glasstop model? If so, there might be gaps between the glass and the wood which could also cause the humidity to leak out. To fix this, get some aquarium sealant or low/no odor caulk and put a bead of it around the glass on the inside of the humidor. This will prevent any current and future leaks.

You are correct to leave the cigars out of the humidor until it is properly seasoned. If you haven't already, place the cigars in a ziplock bag. It would be best to get a Boveda Pack to place in the zip lock.

Once seasoned, humidity between 65-70 is best. 75% is too high and could lead to mold. The preferred humidification method is Boveda Packs as they are very low maintenance.

I think I got all of your questions, let me know if I missed anything or if you have any followup questions.

Good luck.

Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.

If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).

Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.

Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!

I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.

I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.

Ack, best to try a lighter conditioner then. Cadillac is great! Personally I like this stuff a lot as well https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leather+honey&qid=1562611575&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

If you can't/don't roll joints but still want to smoke them there are other rolling machines out there.


This is a great example. Roll perfect joints without filters and without skill or practice.

Get yourself a case (knock off or authentic) and put this in it: https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714

Single torch like you specified. Butane burns pretty hot (hotter than naphtha which is used in standard Zippos and can leak from an over filled lighter), plus it's hermetic so no need to worry about constant refuelling no matter how rarely you use it.

Sounds like your friend got a piezoelectric lighter, which is imho far more effective for the 'torch' mechanism than flint and steel. You can use a spark wheel for the same effect but getting a flame can be difficult and it feels awkward in your hand which is why there aren't many on the market.

Plenty of blue steel cases out there. Good luck on that snake bit.

It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.

It also works pretty well on floors :)

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493385925&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care

The coolest/most fun thing that I have ever done that took some convincing from my friends was cage diving with great white sharks in Cape Town, South Africa!

"time to end boredom"
And I really want this

Analyzing farsightxr20

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I just converted from humidor to tupperdor. Pick up a sistema in either 101 or 67 oz, and some boveda packs to keep the humidity. It's seriously the best way to keep sticks fresh and is super easy to setup.

Future is used rather often as a clear coat. A bottle of the stuff will effectively last a lifetime.

Concerning decal solutions, either one should be fine. I've used both microsol/set or Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, depending on how cooperative the decals are.

I second commiecat's suggestion of the metal polish and dental floss. I've used it on numerous razors however I would caution that some razors can get loose at the pivot pin, especially older razors that don't have washers on the outside of the scales and just have the pins peened over. If this happens you can use a (4oz preferably or an 8oz if that's all you have) ball peen hammer to very lightly tap the pin and try to peen it some more and tighten it up. Also, I've tried a few metal polishes and I prefer Blue Magic to Maas or Flitz. It really works on getting tarnish off but does have a powerful stench so use in a well ventilated area.

To prevent rust from occurring again, you should try to get some oil into the hinge and even wipe down the blade if you have multiple razors and won't be using one for a while. Mineral oil is great for this and you can find it in the pharmacy for cheap, it's sold as a laxative, lol. Moisten a q-tip and try to work it around the hinge area. If you want something fancy, look for a Tuf-Glide pen. I found them for sale at an antique store while I was hunting for razors but I would assume they are sold at hardware stores and such.

I used TechFlex 1/8" 25 feet from Amazon.

I used VKTech heatshrink.

I could have done a much better job on the heatshrink on both ends of the cable, however I didn't have time to use my heat gun so I used my Zippo with a Thunderbird butane insert.

It turned out pretty good in my opinion, however like I said, I could have done a much better job.

IMO for cleaning copper I would use Bar Keepers Friend You can get it locally at walmart or your local grocery store usually. Don't have to let anything soak or screw with ammonia which fucking reeks. Put on some rubber gloves (or use a plastic bowl) and pour some powder in there. Pour some water in there to get yourself a nice paste/liquid mixture and then just cover the copper with it. I do this in my hand because its much easier to work over the mod (heh) with. It cleans almost instantly. Threads may need to be cleaned with a toothbrush. Otherwise rinse it off with water and let it dry and you're ready to roll.

Please excuse the Sayid nails
Before and After

Don't underestimate your freezer so you can buy the ingredients you want. It took me years to embrace this while cooking for 2. Need heavy cream for a recipe but feel like it's wasteful? Go ahead and buy it, you can freeze the leftover as ice cubes and put them in a bag when frozen. Flash freezing items like that (or cut up bell pepper for example) is helpful. Also, try to vacuum seal your bags using a straw or [something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG) to get the most freezer life out of items.

You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.

It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.

Can I make a suggestion?

Pick up a bottle of Grundge Off.

It's a little more pricey, but it works way better with way less effort...AND its reusable! I've been using the same bottle since last July on a weekly basis and it still works great! It works way better than iso and salt ever worked for me, is cheaper in the long run, and no weird after taste.

this is what most people i know use: raw paper filters (raw is the brand)

the picture above is part of the zig zag papers booklet flap, it's the og way, it's actually a great theme of this picture; cannabis picked apart by fingers, ripped out flap from the same packaging as your paper that i assume will be hand rolled. a great cowboy/down to earth feel

http://i.imgur.com/HMdRcFX.png - it's probably this part of the booklet

We had it tested but I cant remember off the top of my head what was in it. Yes the hot water smelled like sulphur and it would leave rust colored streaks where it was left to dry. I ended up having to buy this in order to clean it.

If it has become foggy from micro-cracking as larwk mentioned you may want to try Future floor finish. It is an acrylic coating that will fill scratches and cracks amazingly well and self-levels beautifully leaving a crystal-clear surface on plastic. It is a tried and tested procedure in the model-making world. Check out this page for a lot more info on its use. Obviously you'd want to try it out on a small area first, but even if it doesn't work for you it is easy to remove with a quick alcohol wipe. You'd also want to use nothing more than a mild detergent to clean it after it is applied and dried.

Usually I just clean it normally with a sponge like any other dish. If something gets burned on I'll soak it or boil some water in it. Maybe once every year or so I soak it in Barkeepers Friend paste(http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992) and then scrub with a sponge and it gets any stuff that was burned on the bottom or tough stains off. That brings the shine back and makes it look brand new. All in all very easy to keep clean. No seasoning to fuss with or teflon coatings to be careful with.

I use a grinder. The buds don't break up enough for me when I do it by hand. Use a RAW rolling machine to roll joints. They burn a lot better that way because I can't roll a joint on my own to save my life. Lol

The warped bottom you can't really fix. If you have a gas stove, it probably won't matter much, but it's annoying for sure. The other stuff... you can try some bar keeper's friend, or you can try the boiled salt water again... assuming you actually pay attention to it. What you're doing is basically deglazing the pan. I typically do that every time I cook, makes cleanup a breeze and sometimes is great for an awesome pan sauce.

Absolutely. We decided to save counter space and go with one of these. Fits in a drawer! We just buy the "off brand" zipper storage bags that have a "port" for a hand pump. Great buy for us!

I just got some of this stuff off of Amazon. How am I supposed to go about using it?

Do I try to get my pipes as clean as possible with soap/water, and then use this as a finish? What parts of my bike can I use this on? What parts am I not allowed to use it on?

Do you have any hints or tips about how to use it in the best possible way?

Thanks!

I am not sure how the side view mirror is actually mounted on this model but I can give a general idea.

On the inside of the door there is a plastic triangle trim right on the opposite side of where the mirror is and usually it pops off by pulling on it. This will give you access to some screws that hold the whole assembly to the door.

From there you will have to work your magic to figure out how to get it secured nice and tight as I don't know how bad it is.


The bumper is usually held in with screws or some clips or slid into something. Once again I don't know exactly how it is on this model, hopefully some one can tell you how to fix it correctly for this model. But for now you can go and inspect around to maybe figure out how it should be mounted.

The side trim on your TDI should be held on with tabs build into the side trim, inserted into the holes on the door and locked in some way. Either the tabs have broken off so one way would use some double sided tape made for side moldings/body work.

For the headlights I use Blue Magic Polishing Cream that a friend left at my previous house years ago. It works well and only removes surface oxidation. If it's there deep this polish won't be enough and very fine grit sandpaper is what you will need to use. I have to warn that this polish has ammonia in it so work in a well ventilated area. You will need to follow up with a sealant or it will turn yellow again in a month or two.

I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.

The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.

http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377408035&sr=8-1&keywords=ziploc+hand+pump+vacuum

this with the gallon sized bags. they loose their seal after about 30 minutes so you have to make modifications.

1. as soon as you are done pumping out air, put tape over the vacuum port.
   
2. during cooking, i think it leaks some air in with the normal opening. i think you can mitigate this by putting some oil on the track. its a tip i recently heard but havent tried.
   
   pulling the air out and then taping over the vacuum port with clear packing tape lets them keep a pretty good hold.

Here's what I use. Saw some recommendations here, and skimmed the Amazon reviews to see lots of people using this setup too.
Container https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284AG5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spanish Cedar Trays https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9234HE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And two 65% Bovedas
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=twister_B00P2HIJ2C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This setup will easily hold 50+ cigars. You can fit two of the trays, and the Bovedas fit on each end. I haven't had more than 27 cigars at a time in it yet, but they all fit in the top tray along with my hydrometer with some room for a few more. Right now, the bottom tray has air packets to help regulate humidity by reducing empty space.
Here's a pic: http://imgur.com/PsDM8oQ

I think a good tuppador setup is a Sterilite 20 Qt Air Tight Storage Tote with some large 65% Bovedas and some cedar cigar trays, along with a digital hygro. The cedar trays are completely unnecessary but just nice to have for organization and easy access.

Or check out cheap humidors if you want a wooden one. I think they have a discount code floating around here somewhere.

Personally, if it's within the budget, I'd rather put the money into an inexpensive vacuum sealer. I had a Ziploc brand manual vacuum pump:

Ziploc vacuum kit

The pump worked nicely, but the bags would gradually leak and lose their vacuum, leading to freezer burn.

I got a $40 vacuum sealer (Crenova VS-1) when I got my Anova, and I've been very happy with it. And (2) 50-foot rolls of 11" vacuum bag material for $18 on Amazon has made it pretty affordable to use. Almost certainly cheaper per-bag than the Ziploc vacuum bags, and it works better. Reliable seals, and no leaks.

Here's the link

Also, I dont know how finicky these are with types of butane. A guy on r/cigars mentioned that he had been smoking cigars for 25 years and had tried all sorts of butane. He uses Newport Butane It's cheaper to buy this stuff 2-4 cans at a time. Usually the more you order (at least on amazon) the better the deal. Pure butane wont clog the lighter like some cheaper butane can.

And please search youtube for how to properly fill and un-fill butane lighters.

Lastly a tip I found on the packaging before throwing it away: Do not press the ignition switch hard and fast, just gradually push it. I was having to press the button 1-2 times to get it to start but since Ive started pressing it softer, it lights on the first shot each time. The best way I can think to explain it is to press it as if you were really tired and relaxed. You'll hear the gas release about 1/8 of a second little before the button clicks.

Also the flame is adjustable. The pic shows a medium flame.

This is what I have always done. It cleans them well. I have also used Bar Keepers Friend and had great results. I have the cheap Orgreenic pans and have been using them for the last three years or so and they still work great. My only real complaint about them is that I wish they were a bit thicker.

Well that was easy. monkey

If possible, I would like a gift card, as I'm saving for a steam mop. If not, I would like this filter.


Thank you for the contest!

Awesome idea! If you love that person that much more, just had to share a step up from this product without having to know tire pressure: http://www.amazon.com/FOBO-Bluetooth-Compatible-Monitoring-Motorcycles/dp/B00WBD00FO

Added this to my wheels and having pressure and a quick temperature readout in the morning before leaving my kitchen is pretty insanely nifty.



Other ideas for OP:

Freezeout Balaclava: http://www.amazon.com/FREEZE-OUT-Balaclava-Black/dp/B0096R08W8/

Microfiber Cloths (great for visor wipes, general cleaning, and wiping condensation off the bike in the morning): http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Cat Crap (visor antifogger): http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10003P-AM-Anti-Fog-Cleaner/dp/B002BHWZFI/

Lock Laces: http://www.amazon.com/LOCK-LACES-Elastic-Tie-Shoelaces/dp/B00975EAJ6

Motorcycle Tire Inflator (fits under my seat easily): http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/

Get this stuff. It's FANTASTIC!! Best results are when you get a good amount of rags tho. Apply some of that scrub, clean rag, clean off. Repeat until it's to your liking.
Here's how mine came out, not a drastic difference because I don't let it build too much, but it works wonders!

That's cool, no judgement. But a rolling machine like this one. https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rolling+machine&qid=1572918887&sr=8-1
A pack of papers and a Glass crutch are minimal effort for a much more powerful and cheaper experience. https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Rolling-Genuine-Cigarette-Straight/dp/B07BMXR6GC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Glass+Cigarette+Rolling+Filter+Tips&qid=1572918993&sr=8-3
The smallest amount of effort will afford you a better experience, that's all I wish to point out.

I use the 8 gram 62% packs with anywhere from a quarter to an ounce and store directly with the flower in glass jars. I also have a pelican case with some loose samples or last bits and I keep a few packs at the bottom of that as well. 10 for $12 with Prime.

I'm not an expert or a cultivator but something like 59% would be better for storage (the next lowest level is 49%) so I open the jars periodically and don't change them until they're crunchy.

They work by returning moisture to the dry flower and stabilize it like a cigar humidor. It doesn't restore terpene content but smoking super dry bud is nasty so it still does a lot of good.

Highly rated pan right here. Remember to use wooden or plastic spatulas if you want to keep it looking pretty. Metal spatulas will scratch the hell out of it, but honestly doesn't affect the performance of the pan. Also, Barkeeper's Friend is the best thing for cleaning it.

Not bad, looks a bit 'bumpy' though..

Did you break it down more than what you have left in your hand there?

Also, if you're going to use the 'dollar trick', might as well get you a cigarette roller, roll perfect joints every time and fast.

Takes away from the 'hand rolling' I guess, but it's quite efficient. I usually only use mine for actually rolling cigs, don't smoke many joints any more really.

So I decided to grab these from NDC with some leftover gift card credit because of this thread - looks 10x better clipped like this.


Just FYI I'm holding you personally responsible if I fuck mine up when I try to do this /s .


P.S. Do you think a fuzz/pill shaver like this will work to smooth it out?

You've done a great job, especially considering it's your first and you chose an airplane - they're generally a little more difficult than armor. Is that a Typhoon? What's next in your build queue?

Like another commenter here said, before applying decals, put down a gloss coat. I've found that [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this work well. After getting the decals on, then seal them in with another coat, and you can do your weathering without worrying about damaging them. You might want to use Microsol or Markfit when doing the decals - those solutions soften the decal and you don't get the "draping" effect over little surface details. Just be careful and test with the least important decals first, some kits have really thin decals that get destroyed. Other kits have thick decals that need repeated applications of Markfit strong to soften.

I got my husband one of these and our vacuum stopped looking like that. He scoffed at me when I bought it but now he loves it. :)

If you ever want to make more transparent masks, I highly recommend Future...oh right they changed the name. [Johnson bought it off] (https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1478320050&sr=8-1&keywords=Future+shine+floor+wax), but it's the same formula. What you do is pour a bit into a cup, mix in a little dye/acrylic paint to your desired color, and then dip the mask in and leave it in there. No chance of mask melting/deforming, and a nice and clean process.

Same thing. All a Magic Eraser is is a melamine sponge, and one has a significant name brand upcharge. I have a bag of 100 of them in my closet I got for $6.63 or so. Arrived via the slow boat but they are perfect.

Edit: The ones I got are $8.99 now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XC32NMK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Still a good price on 100.

It's called melamine foam, and is also used in soundproofing rooms. You can buy the off brand stuff for WAAAY cheaper than Mr clean. Here's 100 of them for 10 bucks with free shipping. Mr clean wants like 8 bucks for 4 of them.

I don't have dogs but I've been super pleased with this and have seen several people speak highly of it.

Dude, yes. If it's anything like the rubbery white caps on my converse, Magic Eraser (and honestly, the cheap knock off's too) works a charm!

In australia I can't seem to find a cheap source for the filters, is there a good metal one on amazon or something?

Or should I just buy a load of paper ones

Is this any good? http://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY/

Would like to emphasise that taste is top priority, so if paper is better, I can deal with buying a 350 pack every 6 months or so

Thanks :)

Buy a large plastic airtight container, like this one that is highly recommended

https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-1870-Collection-Rectangle-Container/dp/B00284AG5U

Grab a few boveda, I use 65% personally

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=sr_1_cc_5_a_it?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1549155129&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=boveda+65%25+humidity+pack

2-3 will be enough. That will keep them good for a long long time. I would unwrap the boxes and prop the lids open when putting them in the Tupperware, just for airflow.

Also, congrats on the wedding!

honestly, this stuff works wonders


http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374728391&sr=8-1&keywords=grunge+off

let it sit in the bong for 30 minutes or so then pour it out and rinse with hot water, works sooooo much better than isopropyl. The best part is you can pour it back into the bottle and reuse it, I have been using the same bottle for ~6 months.

Thrift store cashmere. You can almost always find real cashmere sweaters at the thrift shop. They end up there because 1) they are pilling or 2) they are sporting a few moth holes. Buy a cheap electric depiller from amazon. Then learn to thread a needle; holes in wool are super easy to hand sew.

Bar-keeper's friend and elbow grease.That is sure to clean this up real nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992

I'm looking at these.

I admit I am a bit skeptical on why these would even work, but I do like the fact that I could use an essential oil like lemongrass or sandalwood to get a nice scent out of the clothing.

For $5 you can get a hand pump and some special bags made by Zip-lock. I use these all the time, but note that the bags are slightly more expensive than standard ones (there's a small one-way valve on them). But result is less air in the bag so less floating, and never really need a powered vacuum though it is still nice for giant cooks like pork shoulder.

Melamine sponges have a very fine abrasive quality which is perfect for this application. Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are just melamine sponges impregnated with a detergent.

Just a generic melamine sponge with rubbing alcohol should work really well.

Pledge floor wax, under plastic wineglasses from Walmart to keep the dust out while drying.

Put the pledge into a dropper bottle, you can apply a drop directly to the area you want to work with and push around with a brush. Because it takes a few minutes to dry, it self levels out the brush strokes, but you should cover it while drying to keep clean of dust and hair.

Use as protective layer, mix with paint as glaze, apply before doing chipping, or seal whole mini and then airbrush, because overspray is much easier to remove from clear coat than from paint.

Thin coats, and try to leave surface level while it dries, since it dries slower than other products, you don't want it sliding down hill.

Frankly it has so many uses I'm still exploring.
Use anywhere you would use lahmian medium, and most places you would use ardcoat. It's about seventy times cheaper, so you can afford to experiment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xSd8BbJQS4J8Q

Try a rolling machine (Amazon). I've given up on hand rolling. Honestly even the rolling machine was a pain in the ass for me to get right (took me like 20 attempts after watching a REALLY simple youtube video) but eventually I got it right.

The thing I figured out was that the herb needs to be somewhat dense for it to roll right. I only like to smoke a little at a time so I didn't want to fill the entire joint.

I fixed that by cutting a piece of a plastic drinking straw and stuffing it with rolled up filters. I put the straw at one end of the roller, and the (actual) filter at the other, that way I can pack herb into the open area tightly without using too much.

Now that the herb is packed in nice and tight, I roll it up, seal it, and kind of pinch the straw out of the joint and twist it up. They come out a little pathetic looking but who gives a shit? They smoke really nice and it's the perfect amount.

If you're interested I can take a few pictures to illustrate what I mean about the straw.

Until someone more knowledgeable chimes in and asks for more pictures... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE put those in a tightly sealed tupperware with some sort of humidification device. Preferably a Boveda pack

My best "hack" is to buy a stack of these. Keep a stack in the bathroom then before bed wipe down the sink, counter, and toilet quickly. Throw the rag in a separate laundry bag so you just wash the entire stack at once. I do the same in the kitchen at night. Grab a cloth and wipe down the sink and counters.

Every morning you wake to a clean bathroom and a clean kitchen.

There's a couple of different kinds of microfiber cloths, but I'm going to assume you're talking about this stuff

In my experience, microfibers tend to stick to wood, getting caught behind even the tinyest imperfections. That makes for a shitty material to purpose for rubbing over wood. Doesn't mean you can't use them for that anyway, just prepare for feeling like your did a shit job sanding regardless of how well you did.

But you're by far not limited to lint free cotton. You could also use a regular (clean) brush (just watch out for escaped brush hairs, and make sure your stain isn't too thick or the brush stripes won't spread out and disappear). Paper kitchen towels or just toilet paper work fine on wood that's been sanded to like grit 300 and above. In a pinch, a sponge (tends to degrade due to friction, but the chunks are easily cleaned off) will work fine too.

Just beware that whatever you use won't be usable for anything else after the fact.

Whaaaat!? I've never seen those and now I want one! opens amazon

Edit: I ordered this one!!! It even doubles as a squeegee!! I'm so excited lol thanks, OP! It's going to be amazing on my wood stairs AND carpet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bPIybBK6B24R

Honestly, there isn't much.

You're gonna be better off adding some more storage.

Buy a Boveda

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boveda-65-Percent-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511366126&sr=8-1&keywords=boveda+65

And a lock n lock

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lock-Rectangular-Storage-Container-Clear/dp/B0000AN4CS/ref=sr_1_12?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1511366146&sr=8-12&keywords=lock+n+lock

(or get a much bigger one)

A boveda in one of those will pretty much last for a couple years and the only limit to how much you can store is the size of the lock n lock (there are bigger 12l ones which I use)

Nobody has mentioned it here, so you all need to know about this stuff called "Barkeeper's Friend." It is a miracle cleaner and many people don't know about it. It's not that easy to find in stores (or it's relegated to the bottom shelf); I usually buy it from Amazon.

Without being there to see it in person, it's hard to judge...but it looks like some of that could be hard water stains, not just dirt/y. You know how sometimes toilets get that brown stain that doesn't go away when you flush...hard water stains. They are horrifyingly difficult to get out, build up over time if you don't stay on top of them and look disgusting. The reason that people can usually live with it is because though it looks dirty, it's not usually slimy (although sometimes people just get discouraged with it and stop cleaning at all...perhaps some of that is going on). The reason I don't think your friend is necessarily completely gross is because the little counter right next to the shower looks to be pretty pristine AND because the "dirt" doesn't go all the way up the shower.


Buy the Barkeeper's Friend for your friend and follow the directions...make a paste, it's an acid so wear gloves if you have sensitive skin, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then scrub it off. It works on ceramic, vinyl and fiberglass. Brown hardwater stains come out like you did a freakin' magic trick. If this truly is hardwater stains, you could have that all cleaned up in like 10 minutes. Even if prior scrubbing with bleach, scrubbing bubbles, ajax, magic erasers or any other commercially available cleansers didn't work.

Post an after picture for karma!!

Edits: grammar, clarity


TL;DR: Barkeeper's Friend. More than 160 five star reviews on Amazon. It's true. It's a miracle, and your grandma should have told you about it. It's been around since the 1880s for some reason.

Lodge Cast Iron Skillets are great but you have to make sure you clean them immediately afterwards.

For something more practical (and cheap), take a look at these guys (depending on what size you are looking for. You can sautee something, throw it in the oven, and when they start to get ugly, take some Bar Keepers Friend and go at it. It will look good as new in no time. P.S., please don't pay $5 for BKF, it is at your grocery store for only a dollar or two.

Edit: Here is a test of this one vs. the expensive All Clad version.

I plan on storing my seeds for years. Here's how I do it:

1. Drill a 3/4" hole in the lid of a 2 or 4 oz. baby food jar, using a Forstner bit. Tape over the hole with micropore tape on both sides. Fill the jar half-way with Damprid (calcium chloride). Silica gel only gets RH down to 40%, whereas CaCl2 lowers it to <25%. Stuff the rest of the jar with cotton and screw the lid on. I stick the baby food jar to the bottom of a pint- or quart-sized wide-mouth mason jar using these from Wallyworld.
   
   
2. Put the seeds in small ziploc baggies or breeder's packs inside the mason jar. Make sure they're slightly open and not airtight.
   
   
3. Put some oxygen absorber packets in there.
   
   
4. Put the lid on and vacuum seal the jar with one of these and a vacuum pump. You can use a Food Saver pump if you have one but I went with a cheaper option. I squirt some silicone in a ring around the lip for a better seal to the jar sealer.
   
   
5. Screw the jar ring on and store the mason jar in the fridge.
   
   This method takes care of the 3 things that lower seed viability--humidity, oxidation (with the oxygen absorbers and vacuum seal), and temperature. I also plan on saving herb for the long haul like this, but with 62% Boveda packs instead of the CaCl2.

I found using Randy's rolling papers helped me learn how to roll because it has a wire running down through it and helps give you the technique to roll. and it turns in to a roach clip kinda thing so they are kinda cool.

But these rolling machines are fantastic and worth a the couple bucks they cost.

I use microfiber towels with great success! Example: http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-737-Microfiber-Cleaning-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

I have had very bad luck with butane lighters. I think I have gone through close to 10 in the last few years. Ironically, the cheapest one (an insert for an old zippo lighter that I had) has worked the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=pd_sim_236_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41GAkrwKV0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR133%2C160_&refRID=13M7JP5H64VSTW2J56ZK

It's easy to refill and very easy to adjust the flame height. I've only had it for 3 months, so I can't give a long term review on it, but I've liked it a lot so far.

I believe Cubans like to be around the %65 mark. I started a tupperdor recently with these 3 products and it's working out great..

Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Container, Large, 9.6 Cup, Clear 1991158 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCNEJVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qj-LDbMRTKMCA

Goabroa Mini Hygrometer Thermometer Digital Indoor Humidity Gauge Monitor with Temperature Meter Sensor Fahrenheit (℉) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC7JRDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ik-LDbHPA1BEJ

Boveda 65-Percentage RH Individually Over Wrapped 2-Way Humidity Control Pack, 60gm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_el-LDb9K3MND1

$0-$5

Bar Keepers Friend - This stuff is magic for cleaning. It gets rid of all kinds of stains on tile or porcelain and makes sinks look awesome.

$5-$10

Magic Erasers - These are obviously sorcery

$10-$20

Power Squid - Helps deal with the situation around my computer and tv.

$20-$50

14-Piece Knife Set - Not a great knife set, but better than a drawer of miscellaneous knives, which is what I have now! Decent reviews, too.

Did you try scrubbing it or did you just pour the bleach/cleaners in and let them soak. That pink stuff looks like biofilm. Most of that should come off with some comet or other cleaner and some scrubbing.

If not, drain the toilet by shutting off the water supply and flushing it. Then scrub it with a pumice stone like someone else suggested or Bar keepers friend. http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420410568&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+keeper%27s+friend+cleaner

if it's rust then bleach wont work as it just further oxidizes the iron.

Darn. It sounded cool. I'm not sure what area you're in, but I use Bar Keepers Friend on just about everything I can, and it works great. I don't have any cool copper stuff I can test it on, but it might be worth a shot.

Yes, just a day sailor.

I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.

This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV2AVS

And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

I use stash jars that are 3" tall and 2" diameter (standard size) to hold weed. Line these in the back in individual holding slots of 3 or 4. Sectioned off from the front and length wise a simple trough to hold items like vapes, pens, paper, grinder. For humidity control use Boveda 8g packets in each jar. They last for months keeping his cannabis fresh.

If you really want to trick it out pick up some Swagstr stash jars and matching grinder on Etsy. They also sell stash boxes so have a look for design ideals.

Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.


Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C

Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years

Best tank cleaning purchase I have made! Acrylic safe too!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/USMYTHA-Melamine-Cleaning-Multi-Functional-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK&ved=2ahUKEwiy0qPy4oLlAhVog-AKHdvzB6kQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1bGWfw6w4-Ildnbbs8ow7w&cshid=1570197883990

Girl you need to get some Barkeeper's Friend pronto. It is amazing stuff and so cheap too.

Also works really well in the kitchen, like for anything covered in cooked-on grease or even for stainless steel cookware that is discolored.

Sorry only tried Boveda and have been very satisfied, wish I figured this out years ago.


Amazon is reasonable at just over $2 a pack and 4 month eta seems ok no?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00JV27MF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Others use the ones on the ocs site say they are fine think they are cheaper to around a $1 if I recall correctly

No recommendations on a specific brand but you could try getting a clothes shaver. They're pretty good about taking the pilling off things that've gone through a dryer.

You could always try a joint rolling machine and see if you like that. Im so bad at rolling, but using the machine works like a charm I find. An extra $2-3 just for them to roll it for you is quite steep when you think about it, and the machine pays for itself after 4 uses at that rate.

https://www.amazon.ca/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8