(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household supplies

I feel like I can help! I've been cooking my own food since college and I've been working on the subtle art of leftovers and eating leftovers at work.

First and foremost, proper storage is paramount. I work in Chicago, so I carry my life in my work bag (Timbuk2 Classic Messenger, size medium) 5 days a week and I've settled on the best collection of "stuff" to carry each day. I found Ziploc Twist n Loc containers to be my absolute favorite for carrying food to work. It's easy to measure food in there for counting calories (half full = 1 cup) and the twisting cap makes them mostly spill proof. My typical lunch is 1 filled container with something warm and a 2nd food item (bag of chips, 2nd container of food, etc).

Second, I recommend bringing at least one warm/hot meal with you every day. Cold meals leave me unfulfilled and I tend to be super hungry afterward.

Finally, grains and beans go a long way to helping you stay fulfilled. Rice and Beans has been an historical staple of the cuisine of cultured throughout the world because it's generally tasty, easy to cook, easy to store, easy to make a lot and very filling.

Now, I'm not going to tell you that you HAVE to cook from scratch. If you cook, you will make foods that are more nutritious and healthy and if you know what you're doing, you can make them significantly better than anything store bought, but cooking from scratch is not a real requirement. You can easily heat up canned foods and still find something tasty. That being said, knowing which canned goods to combine is where the real secret lies.

My first recommendation is to start getting used to cooking "filler" foods. I'm not sure what else to call that. To me, filler is the less flavorful foods that help round out a meal in terms of nutrition as well as texture. This can be noodles, rice, other grains (e.g. quinoa) and to a certain extend, beans/legumes (e.g. Lentils). This helps you get extra mileage out of your more flavorful dishes. I recommend getting used to cooking rice. Thankfully, white rice is easy to cook.

The bare bones, basic cooking instructions are: measure out your rice, then fill a pot of water with twice as much water as rice (1 cup of rice = 2 cups of water, 2 cups of rice = 4 cups of water, etc). Bring the water to a boil, dump in the rice, bring it back up to a boil while stirring. Once it gets to a boil, turn the heat down to low (2/10 or 3/10), place a lid on the pot, simmer for 15 minutes. If steam is escaping from the pot, turn the heat down a little more). After 15 minutes, kill the heat, let sit for another 15 minutes and it's done. You can switch it up pretty easily too. Swap water out for broth, or throw in a bouillon cube for extra flavor. Pour in some tomato sauce or tomato paste for a different flavor. Use Brown rice and cook for 5-10 minutes longer than the above directions for more nutritious rice. You can swap rice out for quinoa too if you want a grain with a ton of nutrients.

Now that you have some rice made, the next step is to find something to mix it with or eat alongside. If you're just starting to get comfortable with the idea of making your own meals, you can always try a can of food like chili, soup or stew. Depending on the brand, it can be terribly unhealthy or decent for you. Ultimately, you can use rice with ANY canned soup or stew and achieve a similar result. Maybe cook a can of chicken noodle soup, then add some cooked rice to the pot where you're cooking the soup. The rice absorbs a bunch of the broth and assumes the flavor. It helps bulk it up so that you feel more full and it will help make it last longer. I recommend trying this with a variety of soups and stews to find out what you like the most. Something with a super strong flavor, like Dinty Moore Stews or canned chilis benefit from a little rice to help tone down the flavor. You can also cook a couple cans of cream of mushroom soup with water or milk and mix that with rice.

Now, if you do like cooking on your own, I recommend looking into how to use canned foods. Canned goods allows you to purchase a wide variety of foods and flavors without the necessity to use them all up quickly. Canned tomatoes and beans are by far my favorites as fresh tomatoes and dried beans both take a long time to cook.

If you're really trying to make a bunch of food last a while, I recommend looking into slow-cooker recipes. You don't need a slow cooker, per se (you can leave a pot on low heat for long periods of time for a similar effect), but it certainly removes some of fuss from cooking. Slow cookers really shine when it comes to stews and tenderizing otherwise tough cuts of meat. I don't tend to worry about that as I'm vegetarian.

My other recommendation is to learn how to cook vegetables apart from a taste, such as sauteeing, roasting and slow baking. Then, you can cook the sauce separate and combine the two later on.

As an aside, my lunch today is:
Lentils, cooked with diced tomatoes and various mexican spices
Potatoes and Carrots, with a vegetable gravy, served on basmati rice

Both were made last night and I have enough left overs for dinner tonight and more lunch tomorrow.

I know your question was about water, but I'd like to rebut that article in general. I'll make sure to focus on water for you though. (TL;DR: I see The_Prepared is already here, and the article you already found is my suggestion.)

Here, I shall make some useful alternate suggestions:

Article Title: Well, I see the lies have already begun. Hey, I know of an article with almost the same name that's actually useful!

• Pedal power fail socket: Dumb. For that price, buy a solar panel, a decent charge controller, and a battery. Find a nerd if you aren't one, hook them up (safely, standard internet advice disclaimer here), and you get power without needing to pedal, and also storage. If you want to charge your phone, use a 12v adapter, and if you need 120v power for something, you can get an inverter. It's pretty easy to hook it all up, there are a lot of resources, search for "DIY solar generator". Here's one I made for a good friend. This will be about a hundred times as useful to you, at only a slightly higher price.
  
  
• Crappy GMRS radios: You can tell this article is BS because they actually think the "23 mile range" claim has some kind of validity. Emergency comms for preppers generally means a Ham radio license, those walkie talkies are only marginally better than toys. All the same, they're cheap, and can't hurt. I have a pair.
  
  
• Cell phone: It amuses me that the article states "we have a strong suspicion", thus confirming they did no actual journalism or research . In the event of a disaster, 2G will be exactly as non existent as it is now. They also chose the Nokia because of a meme! What's their next memetic indestructible suggestion? A Wiimote? Gamecube? At least you could bludgeon an intruder to death with a Gamecube. My suggestion: Use your regular phone, because it works with the existing infrastructure. Text messages tend to work better in disasters, because high call volume stresses the network, and texts are a tiny amount of data. Also, stay off the phone unless you really need to use it, because someone else might be in a life threatening situation and need to call for help.
  
  
• Ultimate survival kit: I disagree with premade survival kits because they use low quality items, most of them won't actually be useful, and if you build your own, you have more familiarity with the equipment and usage. If you want a pre made kit, look at the contents, buy it in pieces, and test every piece before you put it in your kit. At least then you'll know how it all works, and be familiar with exactly whats in there.
  
  
• Glowy keychain thing: I mean, i like glowy things, but the only real use for this is if you want to take a photo and post it on /r/EDC and then get flak from them because it's not even tritium, which incidentally doesn't need charging and would work far better for the purpose the article suggests anyway.
  
  
• Waterbricks: No argument here, but The Prepared has a really awesome article about this and I'm not going to type words that they have already covered in great detail. (I see they've already found this thread, anyway.)
  
  
• Condoms: Pretty fair point there. They expire, so rotate them like any other perishable prep item. I'd say probably stock conventional ones because no one wants a hurricane baby, and some unlubricated ones for assorted other purposes, but don't plan on using them for stuff. If you need something waterproof, do not think "I'll just put a condom on it when I need to!". If you can think of it in advance, figure out a proper solution, and leave the condoms for in a pinch fixes you didn't anticipate.
  
  
• Hand crank radio: Sure I guess? I'd rather have a radio that uses rechargeable batteries, and then use the solar rig from my first bullet point to charge the batteries. Anything with a hand crank will put out a really tiny amount of power and requires you to effort. Once you stop cranking, you're running off of the way-too-tiny battery in the unit, whereas solar is a huge amount of power that requires no effort, which you can then use to charge lots of batteries and then just swap them. Or run the radio off of a 12v adapter directly. For the radio itself, You want AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio at a minimum, and an argument could be made for shortwave, because it can cover huge distances (I'm in central Alberta, Canada, and can easily pick up Radio Havana Cuba on shortwave). Again, a Ham license and some equipment of that sort would also be useful if you want to get into that.
  
  
• MRE's: Sure, though ask a soldier friend what they think of them, and what they do to your guts. I'm personally going to stick with Mountain House or similar. Also, there's an article from The Prepared on this topic, too. (Hey mods, just so you know I'm not paid or coerced in any way to suggest this site. I gain nothing from them, it's just the best information I've found, and it's convenient to link them instead of type a whole lot.)
  
  
• As seen on TV "Tactical" Flashlight: No! Ask nicely in /r/flashlight, or pick something that meets your needs from Here. Thrunite tends to be inexpensive, high quality, nice features, and nice light, if you're looking for a brand suggestion. Fenix and Nitecore are also solid choices.
  
  
• 1911: Limiting this one because too much politics and heated debate. I love 1911s, but .45 is a bit big for an infrequent shooter, but a 9mm clone like an STI Spartan, or perhaps a Jericho (Baby Eagle) in 9mm, or a CZ, would work nicely.
  
  
• Casper Mattress: Wait, that's an ad, never mind. I couldn't really tell the difference.

I cook primarily on cast iron. Here are some things I've learned:

1. If you are lucky, you'll be able to find some vintage cast iron. You won't regret it. I'm not talking collector status 1800's stuff, but the stuff made in the 1950's is WORLDS better than modern Lodge stuff. Check out craigslist. Don't pay more than $20-$30 for a pan. Most people think they have a collector item worth $100 or more, but if you do a little research, you can pick out some nice pans for cheap, and be educated is very helpful in negociating. I picked up a set of 6 pans off CL for $50 (Griswold and unmarked Wagner pans, pre-1950's).
   
   
2. When you have your pans, you need to clean/ season them. DON'T use flax oil. It is hard, but as a result it is very brittle and won't last. This guy has the best videos detailing how to clean/season cast iron. The TL;DW is:
   
   
   1. Clean pans using a self cleaning oven cycle, you can beat the shit out of these pans cleaning them. Clean, unseasoned pans will rust in a matter of minutes, do not worry.
      
      
   2. Season. If you bought new pans, start here. You'll want to rub a thin layer of Crisco onto your PREHEATED (this opens up pores in the iron) ALL OVER, inside, out, even in the handle notch. Then, you take another dry towel and try to wipe it all off<--very important. You just want a thin film, any more than that you will get sticky drips of unpolymerized oil. This thin film will be your base seasoning, and done properly will prevent rust. Bake upside down @350 for ~30-45 mins. to polymerize the fat.
      
      
3. General care. Get yourself a set of these. Any supermarket should have them. They scrub pretty much anything off a properly seasoned pan. For tougher messes, boil a thin layer of water to loosen up the gunk. You should avoid cooking any acidic foods in cast iron: wine, vinegar, tomatoes, citrus will all mess with your seasoning. NEVER leave the pans wet. Even well seasoned pans will rust if left wet. Wash and dry right away. You should not use soap, I use a little bit if the pan is particularly greasy, but soap will weaken the seasoning. You can always rub a bit of oil on the pan after cleaning if you are worried about rust.
   
   Additional tips:
   
   -Don't be too concerned about aesthetics. These pans can take a beating. The inside/outside will become discolored with heavy use.
   
   -Cast iron pans are a healthy choice. They are a great way to increase your iron intake, something you don't get with enameled cast iron. To be honest, well seasoned cast iron, although less nonstick than Teflon cancer pans, is more nonstick than enameled cast iron. The pans impart a bit of iron to your food when you cook in them. Low iron makes you sleepy, and if you consume a lot of dairy, it blocks iron absorption. Vitamin C increases iron absorption.
   
   -Learn to cook properly with these pans to get the most out of them. Use fat, don't be afraid of it, you don't consume most of the fat that you cook your food in.
   
   -Coconut oil is a great healthy option and can be bought for cheap at Sam's/Costco/BJ's, Also look for any ethnic grocer that sells Swad brand products, their coconut oil is bomb and quite cheap.
   
   -Don't use olive oil. It can be oxidized to a trans fat at high heat (only unsaturated fats can do this, trans fats are the only fats scientifically linked to heart disease).
   
   -Preheat the pan! If it isn't sizzling when you drop it in, it WILL stick. Don't try to flip things too early, it will also stick, you want a nice crust to form.
   
   Best of luck!
   

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

My first six months at site I hand washed. One tub for washing, one for rinsing, then hang to dry. It'd take at least an hour for a week's worth of clothes.

Then I got smart, I came across this website by one of those doomsday preper/apocalypse type guys. He had this idea for washing clothes without electricity and it changed my life. Basically you need just a toliet plunger and large tall bucket, what we call a 5 gallon bucket in the USA. The plunger can be substituted with a number of instruments but I've found if you can get ahold of a plunger, it works best. You cut some holes in the plunger so water can through. Then to do laundry, put a couple handfuls of soap in the bucket, add the plunger, and put all your clothes in around the plunger. Then add water to pretty much the top. I always add about a 2 liters of hot water too as I find that is extra effective. Let soak about an hour. The to wash simply move the plunger up and down for a about 10 minutes. Then rinse in a separate tub and hang to dry. Before each piece of clothing took about 5 minutes. Now all of them take about 10. I'm able to fit a pair of pants, couple shorts, couple shirts, t-shirt, 3 underwear and 2 pair socks all in one load.

My clothes have never been cleaner and it's super easy. Maybe 20 minutes tops per week for all my clothes. This works exactly like an electrical wash machine except you provide the power. The water and clothes and soap all mix together and agitate each other and rub against each other just like they do in your mom's wash machine back in the good old USA. It's brilliant.

After I made the plunger I found out there's actually a whole line of commercial
products you can buy on Amazon to replace the plunger. Look up "magic washing wand" or something like that and read the reviews yourself. I love my little plunger washer. Highly recommended if you can find the materials.

Also side note, I always do my washing inside now whereas before I did it outside. It can get a bit messy, but hcns here would laugh at me if they saw my style (Im a guy). They generally think I have no idea how to do household chores and scrutinize basically everything I do already. But for me at least and my skill set, my clothes are 10 times cleaner than when I was hand washing.

EDIT: link to the commercial version you can buy on Amazon. Fwiw, I still use a toliet plunger and its fine

https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM

Okay so your measurements put you around a 26F. Depending on your comfort level, you may want to try a 28E since you're more used to 34s (which is sooo much bigger than you need!). 28E is also much easier to find. You have plenty of resources online especially (eBay, Amazon, and Figleaves are all good starts and you can check the resource list on the side here), but Nordstrom will have your size as well-though probably only online.

For starters to see how you feel about your size, I suggest ordering something from Nordstrom because they have free shipping & free returns. Even if you don't keep anything, it's a good way to figure out what size is good for you.

As far as 26's go, unfortunately there aren't a lot of options. But! If you look into Tutti Rouge from other seasons (prior to A/W '14), you'll find that their 28s are actually really 26s.

I also recommend you check out listings on Bratabase which is super helpful for figuring out bra stuff, though it can be a bit overwhelming at first.

To note about bras: You want your bra to always fit you on the loosest hook when you first buy it. The reason for that is as time goes by, your band will stretch out. Buying it on the loosest hook will allow you to keep it the longest since you can tighten it as you wear it out. You'll also want to be hand washing your bras to extend the life of them. For that I use Forever New. This giant thing of it will last you literally years.

Hope that helps!


EDIT: People, it seems like some of you are not actually reading my post beyond my first sentence and then admonishing me for suggesting a 26F. If you read beyond that, you'll see that I also suggested a 28E for comfort level and the fact that it's easier to find.

This is off the topic, but just as a side thought:

Everyone has their own preference when it comes to storing sticks, but if I may - as a new smoker too - Read over this. This was my experience.

" I've literally smoked a handful of cigars up to this point. All came from the local B&M and have been great. Super knowledgeable, helpful bunch of guys, that weren't rude to dude "wet behind the ears".

I enjoy the hobby, a lot.

I got a humidor, couldn't regulate it very well (50 count humi at $50, and only gave it 2 weeks), got frustrated with it, returned it and went the tuppedor route.

All seems really well with my tuppedor set up.

1. Cigar Oasis Caliber IV Hygrometer
   
2. 2 Cedar Trays
   
3. 1 Sistema 1870 Klip It
   
4. 2 Boveda 69% (60g)
   
   I let the tuppedor do its thing with only the trays, bovedas, and Hygrometer (no cigars) in it for a day - it settled at 72 degrees / 69 RH in no time. This is a set it and forget it solution. I love it!"
   
   ​
   
   As someone new to the hobby I would recommend saving yourself some time and frustration. I know you have already purchased the humidor and its on the way, but if at all possible, you may just consider the Tupperdor route. Switching how I stored my cigars freed my mind and allows me to focus on whats really important - researching good sticks and enjoying them. Two weeks was a long time for me to constantly think about and attempt to season my humidor. And i researched and cross referenced everything on line and at my local B&M. The owners (three dudes) at my local shop all highly recommended the tupperdor route. These are guys who have been smoking cigars longer than I have been alive (30+ yrs).
   
   The owner said this to me (paraphrasing):
   
   "It isn't about having a fancy storage case. Its about enjoying time spent with good people. If someone gives you sh*t about how you store your cigars, but either they don't know what they are talking about, or they are an a**hole and you shouldn't waste your time on em. I've been using tupperware for over 10 years, and I'll never go back. Now --- if the president came over, then I may spring for a fancy box!"
   
   ​
   
   Just a thought.
   
   T Eldridge

Hey! I'll offer up some noob advice since I just started a couple months ago myself and had these same questions. Firstly, welcome to the sub and to the cigar world in general. Hopefully you'll really enjoy your first few smokes and become a BOTL (brother of the leaf)! So here's the good news - a "starter kit" like you are asking about is actually so good that it can be a "lifetime kit." Many people here who have been in to cigars for many years still use this system. A humidor is very nice, but the cheaper ones aren't that great, and even the more expensive ones are truly not necessary. You can keep cigars in just as good condition in the setup I'm about to tell you as any that are kept in expensive humidors, generally. So what you want is nicknamed a tupperdor. Just like it sounds, it's tupperware made to be a humidor. The key is that it has to be airtight. So your basic glad snap lid things aren't usually good enough, but the ones that are airtight are still cheap, they just have snap tight latches and usually a rubber seal around the lip. This one is what I am currently using. Actually many people here use it as well. If you scroll down on that page you will see the "other people bought" suggestions are for a Spanish cedar cigar tray and a digital hygrometer, so you can see many people buy these for this purpose. [This is another option as well.] (https://www.amazon.com/Prestige-Group-AJ25-Acrylic-Humidifier/dp/B00J21X9IS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501388463&sr=8-2&keywords=acrylic+cigar) This one has the cedar lining in it already but holds fewer cigars and displays differently,
your call. Then you will need a humidity pack like this one from Boveda. They are cheap and this size works for up to 25 cigars I think. Anyway, you simply put it inside the tupperdor with your cigars and close the lid, that's it! The Boveda packs will maintain the humidity int he box at 69%. There are other levels you can get like 72%, and that's more of a personal preference I think. I found that 69% was very common so I went with that and it's been working well for me so far. Also, you don't actually NEED the cedar tray, but it does have some benefits for long term storage of cigars. I actually grabbed some thin Spanish cedar sheets out of a used cigar box and laid them on the bottom of my box for now. Works fine. As for the hygrometer, it's also not required for your needs. I still don't have one. The Boveda packs do their job very reliably. So there you have it, an inexpensive and very reliable way to store cigars for the short term while you test out the cigar world, and it will work long term if you like it and decide to keep smoking. Certainly others with more experience than me will chime in here if I made a mistake or three, this sub community is pretty great. Anyway, enjoy and if you have more questions fire away!

Go to Walmart or the local shoe store and head over to the socks. Buy the thickest, most cushy socks you can find. Put the socks on, then go over to the work boots.

Brahma brand boots are a good value for the money (Walmart, and I think Payless both carry these), but look for some basic work boots in the $25-35 range. Find some that fit just a little loose with your new socks and buy them.

Nearby you should find a rack with gel and memory foam insoles, usually for around $8 a pair. Get the thickest, squishiest set you can find. Gel vs foam is mostly personal preference; I recommend giving the gel a try.

Remove the cheap, thin insole that came in the boots and use it as a template to trim the toes of your new insoles to the right size, then throw away the original insole (it's crap, you don't want it).

Make sure this all fits in the boot without crowding your toes. A tight fight will be uncomfortable, and it won't get better over time. If it's too tight, take the boots back and try a pair that is a half-size bigger, and try the 'Wide' variation in a couple of different sizes too.

In your case, working with water, I'd also recommend grabbing a can of Camp-Dry and liberally spraying the boots. They'll last longer and keep your feet more comfortable.

Really comfortable shoes really make a huge difference when you do standing work, for around $40 you can have super comfortable boots that will last between 1 and 4 years (depending on how hard you wear them and if you take care of them). Dry them carefully after you wear them (Loosen the laces and pull the tongue forward to let in plenty of air, and if they are particularly wet, lift the insole to get some air around it).

You can spend hundreds of dollars on great work boots, but you don't really need to for standing work. Cheap boots will fall apart fast if you spend all day hiking around a construction site, but if you're mostly standing around in a store you don't need to spend the extra money.

Ideally no, not dishwashing soap. My understanding is that the chemicals are harsher on the gel coat as well as the environment.

That being said the most popular soap in my neck of the woods is Orpine It goes for a pretty penny. (There's a smaller $20 bottle FYI)

In it's defense though, the gel is highly concentrated, you don't use too much per wash which means that that gallon jug will last way longer than you would ever imagine...but still, $70? Just don't let your kids pour the shit all over and waste it.

I'd also like to add that I'm very fond of the smell of it so much that I'm hoping one day they'll start a body soap or deodorant or something. That's pretty much the one thing that has the edge over a few other boat soaps that come to mind e.g. Turtle Wax, MaryKate SuperSuds, and whatever other crap they sell at West Marine.


As for the Chamois, it really is pretty much the most important part of the process. Basically you rinse, you soap, You rinse again. Soap helps lift the dirt, ash, goop, blood stains, whatever. When you rinse the second (and last time) and leave it to air dry you're leaving all the minerals or residue from the hose water to sit and thus dirty the boat again. You'll see water ring stains from the dried up water droplets on the gel coat, wood, metal, etc. It's definitely an OCD thing but that's how I learned...especially if you get into waxing your boat but that's a whole other discussion.

BTW, an Absorber chamois goes for about $15. The Shurhold Mop is another expensive item for what it is but it's an accessory to a very good and sturdy telescoping pole with very good quality brush heads.

I used to clean boats for a living and after a while you realize that it is expensive to be cheap. Buy once, take care of your tools and they'll love you forever.

Protip: Get into the habit of having NeverDull around. It'll make your metal forever shiny if you just give the rails and other visible metals a quick wipe after you've cleaned and dried it all. The product produces a light haze so give it one last wipe with a dry cloth and you're all set.

Too much information?

Ps. This is the first time I try all these jazzy hyperlinks on a reply. I hope they work.

Edit: had to fix the links as predicted.

What kind of boat do you have anyway?

>1) I was just a dumbass for using the scouring pad

Possibly?! Was it like This Or more like This ?


I've never had anything stick so bad that a little hot water and one of These couldn't get it off easily.

-------------

>2) I was seasoning them with too-thin coats of oil

Not likely, you want it wiped down almost dry, you sound like you did good here.

-------------

>3) The quality of my seasoning was somehow marred by tiny bits of rust I couldn't see

Tiny invisible rust won't hurt. But oiling over a raw pan that's not 100% dry and then baking, can cause issues with the seasoning sticking.

-------------

For a long time this Flax seed oil method has been praised as being the end all and be all of seasoning cast iron. More and more lately I've been hearing stories like yours. There's got to be something to it. Either people are doing it wrong, or it's not really as good as people say. All I can say is that people seasoned pans without issue for the last 100+ years using whatever kind of grease they had on hand, and it worked just fine.


I've had pretty good luck with Olive Oil (Even though others may disagree). I've since moved on to using Sunflower oil and like it very much. I use only metal utensils, and only scrub with the pads I linked above and have never had the issue of seasoning flaking off.


Edit

Here's a few links with other people having problems with their Flax seasoning. Maybe you can glean some info from them.



My Flax seed problem.


"It worked nice. I was happy. But it didn't last."


"I like using olive oil better because olive oil in thin layers do not flake off like flaxseed for me"


After 8 coats, the surface looked great, the eggs slide off nicely and I thought we were golden. Then...the seasoning started to wear/cook off quickly.

I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.

I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.

First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.

For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.

Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.

With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.

With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.

I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.

Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.

Definitely read the wiki cover to cover for all the general specifics.

To answer your questions:

> Do I leave them in the wrappers they came in when I store them in the humidor?

The wrapper is the outer most layer of tobacco on the cigar. Cigars consist of filler, binder, and wrapper. What you're referring to is the cellophane (cello) and it's really up to personal preference. I think a good rule of thumb is "store them how you buy them." If they're in cello when you buy them, just leave them in. The pro is that it'll protect the wrapper. The con is that it supposedly won't age a quickly, but that's a) supposedly and b) we're talking about storing cigars for years and I'm guessing you're not at that step yet.

> Is distiller water ok to use for the humidifier?

Yes, this is what you should use. What kind of humidifier are you using? If you're using the floral / foam puck, pitch it and get some 69% or 65% Boveda packs. You need about 2 packs for every 50 cigars you're storing.

> How long can I store em' before I smoke em'?

The short answer is "forever under ideal conditions." Ideal condition is about 68F and 68% relative humidity (RH). You may want to let them "rest" in your humidor for a few days after you buy them because sometimes they're over/underhumidified at Brick & Mortar (B&M) cigar shops.

> Advice for tasty cigars?

• Smoke slowly (one puff per minute).
  
  
• READ A LOT
  
  
• READ SOME MORE. Edumacate yourself.
  
  Welcome and good luck! PM me if you have any more questions.
  

Right now it's a gorgeous red leather cambridge satchel - like $160-200 once you include shipping and all that, but I'm so tired of buying cheap vinyl bags that start falling apart after a few weeks' day-to-day use and I'm ready for something beautiful and sturdy that will last.

I don't think I've ever given anyone their dream gift, though I did really well by my dad last year - I gave him an Absorber towel (basically a ShamWOW that actually works) and he still gushes to me every time I call about how great it is and all the uses he's discovered for it, hahaha. If only everyone were so easy to please!

1. wein cell battery is the modern replacement for this camera although I had mine converted to use a Varta 625 battery when I had it repaired. apparently they last much longer. just remember to switch it off "A" when the camera isn't in use to conserve battery.
   
   
2. I've taken off the top of mine in an attempt to diagnose issues and it was pretty easy to dis and reassemble the cover/film advance leaver. I did not go any further than that. Havent tried to clean the viewfinder or anything either, that might be based on how good of shape it's in and if its worth the effort.
   
   
3. There are a lot of guides on youtube, I haven't tried it but I know you're going to need a spanner to do it.
   
   hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray
   
   The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!

Here's my advice since I literally just started a few weeks ago. This is exactly what I wished I knew before I spent money on random cigars from various sites.

1. Depending on how many sticks you plan on getting at a time, invest in a tuppedor. Don't waste your time with a wooden humidor (at least right now). I picked up these from amazon and all my ~40-50 sticks sit comfortably in there.
   

• Plastic "humidor"
  
• Hygrometer
  
• Boveda Packs, although I might lean towards the 65% next time. Also, you only need 1 pack in a tuppedor, 2 is overkill. They can also be recharged, so don't throw them away when they dry out.
  
  

2. If you have a nice brick and mortar tobacco store (not a hole in the wall place that caters only to e-cigs and accessories) near you, visit them and ask questions. If they are worth their salt, they should be fairly knowledgeable about cigars. They will point you in the right direction. I stupidly didn't do this and just kind of bought random shit online and have had mixed results with what I bought. The stuff I've bought at the store has been much, much fresher too. However, you will be spending 30-40% above what you'll pay online. I found it worth it for how much time and effort the staff spent helping me, but it is quite a bit more expensive.
   
   
3. If that's not an option, look for sampler packs online. You can find cheap options that include a bunch of different sticks so you can sample a variety. I would suggest looking at smallbatch mixes find a price you're comfortable with spending (30 to 40 should be plenty, maybe buy 2 of the $30 to $40 packs so you end with ~10 cigars) and in the comment section of your order mention that you're brand new to cigars. He should be able to make an excellent mix for a new smoker. Use code "rcigars" for 10% off (without the "", not sure if valid for the mix).
   
   
4. Also, if you don't come from a background of smoking cigarettes, stick with the mild to medium strength cigars. I smoked a few full strength ones from the samplers I got and they kicked my ass. It was unpleasant to say the least. If you DO plan on smoking a full strength cigar, smoke on a full stomach and drink something sweet with it. Sweet tea or a pop of some sort works well to quell the nicotine content.
   
   
5. Accessories. All you really need is a decent cutter and a torch lighter and you're all set.
   

• A cutter
  
• A butane lighter
  
• Fuel [Note, you can use cheaper fuel, but your lighter may get clogged with shitty zippo butane fuel.]
  
• Some sort of ashtray. You don't realize how nice it is to have one until you don't have one and have no place to rest your cigar.
  
  

6. If you do find a cigar you enjoy, try buying a 5 pack of it. Let it rest for a week or so and try them out over the course of a month or several months and see if you enjoy them as much as you did the first time. See if they get better with age. I have far too many 1 offs that I enjoyed, but would I still enjoy them a month from now? 2 months from now?
   
   
7. Oh, and generally stay away from infused cigars. They use shittier tobacco since they can mask it with flavors. The girlfriend still likes these, but I think she's starting to come around to a natural sweetness/chocolate taste instead of an artificially infused one. Plus they stink up your humidor and can potentially ruin the taste of your other cigars in them if they are in close contact.
   
   
8. Online sites that I've enjoyed purchasing from and ship quickly:
   

• http://store.cigarfederation.com/
  
• http://www.smallbatchcigar.com
  
• http://www.holts.com
  
• Stay away from Thompson Cigars. I've also had issues with jrcigars. They held my order for no reason and I had to contact them to ship it out. I ordered it over 10 days ago and still haven't seen anything, although it's supposed to be here on Tuesday.
  
  

9. Look up retrohaling. You'll taste more of your cigar this way. Warning, it does burn the hell out of your nose the first handful of times you do it. Start with a mild cigar instead of a full strength one like I stupidly decided to do. :P
   
   Hopefully this helps.
   
   Edit: Many edits to fix errors and add additional info.

I haven't purchased a lot from TNT, but I think you'd probably be better served buying some name brand sticks you'll be able to get in the future. TNT isn't really well known for high quality cigars. If it's between those two options, definitely grab some sticks from Shad. Lots of other good places as well, with name brand sticks.

As for the Humidor, honestly, wood Humidors are more trouble than theyre worth. Grab a gasketed Tupperware like this as well as some 65% Boveda packs and you'll be in great shape. These will keep your cigars in perfect shape, with the least amount of maintenance.

You're very welcome; I'm just a mere nomo who's happy to help.

All of that said in my original post, if I were you I'd try something a little less permanent on the first try. I'd also want something that would have no chance of flaking off and making a big mess of my mod (lacquer will eventually fail). After polishing and a solvent cleanse, I'd probably apply a wax. It's not a forever solution, but it should reduce how often you'll have to polish and it's pretty easy to remove/polish/reapply.

Renaissance Wax is a museum quality product renowned protecting antiques/collector items and it works great on all metals and more. Amazon carries 65ml and 200ml containers at a fairly reasonable price.

That's probably where I'd go first, but my experience with applying coatings is very limited...I spec them all the time, but never have to actually use them. :) I hope your experiment goes well!

• If you just play offline, you don't need an Xbox Live Gold subscription. It's not expensive though, I usually snatch a year-subscription for 40 EUR from ebay even though I don't play online games. You also get ~4 (older) games per month to add them to your library. It also gives you access to regular sales in the Microsoft Digital Store.
  
  
• You could consider Xbox Game Pass though, you can get it for ~60 EUR per year in sales (ebay, Amazon) and it gives you access to ~250 games. EA Access is something similar, ~70 EA games for 25 Eur per year.
  
  some infos that could be useful:
  
  
• this list shows which Xbox OG and Xbox 360 games are working on a Xbox One as well : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_backward_compatible_games_for_Xbox_One
  
  
• these games are included in EA Access (costs 25 EUR a year) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EA_Access
  
  
• All the games currently in Xbox Game Pass : https://www.windowscentral.com/xbox-game-pass-list
  
  
• Gamepass is 1 Dollar/Euro for three months for new customers currently if activated until 23rd of May. Make sure to turn off the 'automatic renewal' after subscribing for the three months offer (see next point for easiest way to handle this).
  
  
• the best way to manage your Xbox/Microsoft Account including subscriptions is with a web browser : https://account.microsoft.com/account/manage-my-account
  
  
• List of games that can be played with Mouse/Keyboard on an Xbox One (it's a newer feature, not many games support it yet) : https://www.windowscentral.com/list-xbox-one-mouse-and-keyboard-games
  
  
• List of Play Anywhere games (if bought on Xbox or in the Windows Microsoft Store, one game license makes you play the game on both platforms : https://www.windowscentral.com/play-anywhere-list (Your Windows 10 account must be the same as you Xbox account for that to work).
  
  
• ebay and Amazon is the usual place to snatch up used Discs of Xbox 360 and Xbox One games. Microsoft also has sales several times a year for their digital store(like Steam sales). You can also sometimes buy Xbox digital keys for some games for cheap at ebay. i.e. everybody owns Assassins Creed Unity, as the digital key costs only 2 Euro on ebay ;)
  
  
• to buy cheap yearly (or for 3 months or six months) subscriptions to Game Pass, EA Access and Live Gold, check ebay and the usual Amazon Sales.
  
  
• The controller uses regular AA batteries. Buy something like this, it will save you money in the long term : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339NINQ
  
  
• There is an Xbox App for Windows 10 which is useful, also there is an Xbox App for Android and iOS.
  
  
• subscribe to r/xboxone/ to stay informed about anything regarding Xbox One. Quite a lot of people with a 'normal' Xbox One in that sub, not everybody has a One S or One X ;)

Actually...yes, assuming you have your own bathroom and/or very understanding roommates :
Use a detergent that has both water softener (to counteract the hard water) and enzymes in it.
The easiest one to find is probably Tide.

But of course, there's a catch.
The catch is that you'll need to soak them for several hours, and because you don't have your own washer, you'll need to soak them at home and wash them by hand. And you'll probably need a second set of sheets if you don't already have one.

If you want to make a small investment that will keep you out of the laundromat and let you wash all your laundry at home (not just sheets) you might consider something like the "wonder washer" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C8HR9A and a folding drying rack.

If you want to go the cheaper route, some folks use a 5 gallon bucket (from Home Depot or similar) to wash by hand, but I find a big plastic storage tub works better. Use a small amount of detergent (about 1/3 of what you'd use for a normal sized load). If you're using powdered detergent, dissolve it with hot water, then use whatever temperature water you want. Put your sheets in and add enough water to cover the sheets by a few inches. I use a 15 gallon storage tub and usually fill it 2/3 of the way.
Take a clean laundry only plunger (I use this one and love it https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM ) or your hands or clean legs and feet and squish the sheets around in the water for about 5 minutes or so. Then let the sheets sit. The longer they sit, the better the enzymes will work. If you can soak them either overnight or while you're away at work, that would be awesome, but even just two or three hours will make a big difference. When the soak is done, use the plunger (arms/legs/whatever) to squish them around again for about 15 minutes. It's ok to take a break if you get tired, but you want to agitate them for about 15 minutes total. Then empty the water out, and start the first "rinse cycle". Put clean water in the tub and squish the sheets around to rinse. Empty the water and rinse the sheets again.
Then wring them out using your hands and hang them to dry.

TL;DR Wash at home and soak your sheets in a detergent that has water softeners and enzymes.

You figured this out already, but don't use paper towels if you can help it. Get the large microfiber towels like these. If you have a Harbor Freight in your area you can get 3 for like a buck. Those tiny ones that come with your glasses are for the birds. Also make sure to only use water or specialized glasses cleaner. Never use Windex or the like to clean your specs. Good luck!

I've heard good reviews about this product but haven't tried it myself http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BFDN80Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464713848&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=pax+case&dpPl=1&dpID=31bKXkbemgL&ref=plSrch

On the other hand I use a pelican case everyday and I've been happy with it. Definitely smell proof, water tight and durable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004WKK8BU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1464713978&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pelican+1010&dpPl=1&dpID=51py2nS0FqL&ref=plSrch

Lastly I carry a medtainer. Also, water/smell proof and durable. Holds my flowers and does a great job getting that nice fine grind I like for my pax. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRHHYJI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464714149&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=medtainer&dpPl=1&dpID=41cjz-wDGJL&ref=plSrch

That's been my set up for almost a year in an illegal state. It's worked very well for me.

1. The starter kit comes with ultimate polish and compound. Those are less aggressive versions of M105 and M205. I would skip the kit and just get the Meguiars duo.
   
2. Instead of the mothers clay kit get the meguiars kit. IT has better clay and the spray detailer it comes with is way better.
   
3. If you're getting Collinite #845 then you wont need Poorboys world EX. Collinite #845 lasts a long time and in my opinion #845 looks better than EX.
   
4. The Meguiars wheel kit is VERY aggressive. I would get some Sonax Full Effect for the wheels and use Meguiars D101 (which is on the list) for the tires.
   
5. The Mothers tire brush is awful! Just terrible to use. The popular choice now is the tuf shine tire brush. Its simple and its the best tire brush hands down.
   
   Some things you may have forgotten:
   
   
6. Since I told you to pretty much skip most of the kits you have listed, get some cheap microfiber towels for everywhere but your paint. I recommend zwipes from amazon. I use these towels to dry tires/wheels, interior, glass, everywhere but the paint.
   
   
7. Wash mitts. I really like chenille wash mitts.
   
   
8. Nice towels for your paint. You need nice microfiber towels that will only be used on your paint. Anything from theragcompany.com will be good or some generic chemical guys microfiber. Another good brand is Cobra.

I should've mentioned I bought the starter kit myself, and while I'm happy with it, I could have done without some of the extra bits since their parts are built to last anyway. My kit came with a triple burner torch (Amazon has a two pack for $17)that I like as well. Gets the cap to a vape temperature a bit faster, but does not perform as well as a single burner if you want to maximize your hits. Dynavap has a good video explaining the difference.

Sneaky Pete also made a good video with some heating tips.

If you decide to get one, enjoy! They are really fun devices and are pretty cheap to boot.

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

That's a great deal if the camera works. The SRT 102 has a match needle meter system, but you can operate the camera fully manually without a battery in it, as it is a fully mechanical shutter and aperture system.

In terms of what to check for for the SRT-102 specifically.

1. About half way through the production (or early on, I'm not sure of the details), Minolta stopped making them with the mirror lockup option. If that's important for you, make sure the one you're looking at has it.
   
   
2. Check to see if the mirror is stuck. As mentioned, if your model has a lockup, make sure that isn't engaged. If the mirror sticks after shooting, it may be that the bumper is degraded.
   
   
3. Shutter issues - the SRT102 has a cloth shutter, so make sure it's in good condition. If you have access to the camera before buying it, I'd highly recommend you shoot blanks (without film with the back open) to verify the magnitude of the shutter speeds (ie, 1/8 isn't the same sound as 1/250 isn't the same as 1/1000). Also look to see if the entire shutter curtain operates properly.
   
   
4. Check the light sealing, as it may need to be replaced.
   
   
5. Check the depth of field preview to make sure it's smooth and functioning. The SRT-102's works on a toggle. Push the tab in, and it will preview the DoF and button remains depressed. Press it again to release it (kind of like a ball point pen).
   
   
6. If the camera is mechanically sound (shutter is fine, film advance is smooth and not grindy, DoF preview is good) then I'd say 90$ is a great price for it, especially with that Rokkor-X f/1.4 nifty fifty. Is the glass clean?
   
   
7. If you care about the meter, verify its function both by using/bringing a mercury replacement cell and using the "B.C." function on the bottom of the camera. Also look through the glass to see if your exposure is approximately right (use sunny 16 or an external meter to verify). Also, this is a good opportunity to check if the battery terminals are mucky and shitty.

The chain mail thing is great if you want to go that route. Personally I just use a perfectly normal stainless steel scouring pad that you can buy pretty much anywhere for a few dollars. I literally get them at my supermarket and for the past 10 years they have gotten the job done just fine. Good luck!

edit: as to this stuff

>I guess I’ll just buy a chainmail scrubber - but what do I do after cooking? Let it cool? Can I cool it down with cold water? Is 10-15 minutes enough cooking? Do I then go at it with the chainmail and running water?

I let mine cool off. Usually I just go eat dinner. Then when I wash up I wash the pan. Cooling it with cold water .. well I've done it. It works. People will tell you that you have a chance of warping/cracking the pan. If it is hot enough they are correct! So typically I just leave it on the stove till after my meal and then clean up.

>I’m new to this all and struggling. My housemates are all having a go at me for using soap and I explained that lye is the problem but they look at me like I’m an idiot.

Soap gets things clean. Clean is good. Use soap.

Ok so I’ll be honest I bring mine into the shower (not wearing them) and clean then just with water.
But from the time I was really into bras the best way to clean them is by hand in the sink or a bucket with a gentle soap made for that purpose and then hang or lay flat to dry. There’s several on amazon here is one

Forever New 32oz Granular Fabric Care Wash Natural Laundry Detergent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002USD5FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RwiMDbNYWMNCS

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

• Radio - $128.86
  
  
• 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77
  
  -or-
  
  
• 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00
  
  
• Battery charger - $21.85
  
  
• You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99
  
  
• You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49
  
  side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63
  
  additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.
  
  Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.
  
  Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
  

the "k" in MkMuffin stands for keto. this is under 2 net carbs. i need to tweak the recipe slightly, but all in all i really enjoyed it. sorry for the crappy phone pics.

recipe for the faux english muffin:

2 tablespoons of whole flax meal (i used king arthur, 1 net carb that i stumbled on at bilo)

1 tablespoon butter (i used great value salted butter from walmart, 0 carbs)

1 large egg (about .4 carbs)

1/4 teaspoon baking powder (make sure it is fresh, no carbs)

1/8 teaspoon morton's lite salt (for added potassium, i actually used 1/4 teaspoon and it was too much, no carbs)

the trick was finding the right shaped container. i bought the southern home (bilo brand) version of this disposable container.

melt butter in microwave for ~30 seconds in container above
while melting, in a separate bowl mix the flax meal, baking powder, and salt
pull the melted butter out of the microwave and add the dry ingredients and the egg.
mix until gloppy but smooth.
microwave for 2 minutes.

it will slide right out. i am yet to have a "minute muffin" stick.

240 calories, 1 net carb. (if you count the .4 carbs in the egg, then 1.4 carbs.)



the innards are a great value (walmart) frozen sausage patty, an egg (you're gonna need an egg ring if you want it round), and an ounce of member's mark (sam's club) extra sharp cheese. i have made this several times before trying to make a faux english muffin.

preheat a broiler-safe skillet (i use cast iron) on medium for a couple of minutes. place sausage to one side for 3 minutes. flip it and cook for 2 minutes more. after the first minute, turn the burner to medium-low. after the second minute, flip again but to the other side of the pan. place egg ring in grease in the pan. (this is why you do most of the cooking on one side, then switch.) crack egg into ring, break the yolk, and cook for 2 minutes with a little salt and pepper. place ~3/4 of the cheese on the sausage. save the other bit to snack on. now turn on the broiler. after the two minutes, flip the egg, turn off the burner, and carfully place the sausage and cheese atop the egg. broil for ~1 minute, until cheese is bubbly and melted. (make sure and turn the broiler off! i have forgotten a time or two.)

380 calories, 0 carbs. (again, .4 carbs in the egg if you count it.)

***

620 calories, 1.8 net carbs. (if you count the eggs, i usually don't.)

i think next time i may try toasting the "muffin" or maybe a little butter and place under the broiler while melting the cheese.

Full Album


This is my biggest haul yet. I’ve spent the last few months working my way through lots of singles. I still have some more I want to try(hence more singles in the haul) but I did find some that I could be happy smoking every day until the end of time. Oh, and the Mayans MC show just started and I’m stoked to start watching.


In the bottom left of the picture are a few cigars I picked up from B&Ms. I get the urge to check out every B&M I see and have to buy something.


The two boxes in the top left are from ihavanas. Partagas Serie D No. 4 and Hoyo de Monterey Epicure No. 2. Never had either one but they’ve been suggested highly by many people.


Everything else is from Fox. If anyone needs more convincing to order from Fox, check this out. I purchased the box of Tatuaje Tattoos, two Boxes of Oliva Melanios, and the 13 singles directly below them. All the 40ish singles below that, to the right of that, all the swag and accessories, were free. A sick Jet Line tabletop lighter, a Lotus tabletop lighter, a 3 finger leather case, an Oliva ash tray, hats, cutters, golf towels, and of course the handwritten notes. u/lvsquared seriously hooked it up! I’m already a customer for life, but now I want to move to Arizona when I retire and work at Fox. Golf, cigars, and whiskey. Sounds like heaven to me.


Check out the album for pics of the tupperdor. I got this Iris Weathertight bin from the container store. This is the 36qt size which I had to upgrade from the 19qt size when I placed this order. This holds about 200 cigars how I have it set up, but could hold much more if you were to keep them in ziploc bags. It has a foam gasket on the lid to keep it sealed. I open it once a day to get some airflow in. I use a Caliber IV hygrometer which I glued some angled metal to and placed magnets on the outside of the box to keep it viewable from the outside. In the bottom of the tupperdor I placed some cedar wood planks to enhance the aroma and act as somewhat of a humidity sponge. For humidity I use 8x 60 gram 65% Boveda packs. To hold my singles I bought Feathergrain wooden drawer organizers. These are the 6”x9”x2” size. I put some hot glue on the bottom of them so they will nest in each other and not slide around. They hold my singles beautifully.


Thanks for reading. I’ve gotta let these babies rest now. I can’t wait to try each one in a month or so.

Turtle Wax Orange Car Wash

The Absorber to dry with.

A dry blade helps get the initial water off.

[California brush] (http://www.calcarduster.com/originalDuster.asp) works for the dust between washes.

There are a bazillion swirl removers out there. I wouldn't recommend using any of them unless you have some sort of electric buffer/polisher. I tried without one and I wanted to commit suicide it was such a horrible process. If you do have a power tool, get whatever brand sounds nice. Meguiars has some good ones but I can't recommend anything here.

Carnuba wax ...they have [wax for black cars[(http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g6207-black-wax/) but I've never tried it.

I use all of that and it works great. Can't promise it's the best on the market or that there isn't anything better..but it's worked great for me and I baby the shit out of my car.

I would see what mah the batteries are, but they don't say. Most Nyko products are low, while AA Energizer Rechargeables are what I use and recommend. 2300mah batteries will last more than 40 hours of use without a recharge, where 400mah batteries, most likely the ones here, only last around 7 hours of use without a recharge. Most stores sell the four pack AA Energizer with charger for under $15.00, a better deal in my mind.

Edit: here is the link to the Energizers on sale at Amazon. Although I think these are the 2000mah batteries and not the higher 2300mah batteries, they are still very good.

Agreed, it's your business. She can hire her own inspection done if she wants.

That being said, maybe not a terrible idea to purchase a lead detection kit to make sure there's no lead - for your own peace of mind if nothing else. Lead chips taste sweet so young children really will eat them.

It's also not unusual especially for first time moms to overworry about their kids. If you think she's a good tenant and want to keep her I'm sure there are some basic reassurances you can provide. If not, I agree with u/NetWareHead that you maybe just don't renew the lease.

Good luck!

The cigars left to your dad probably haven't been maintained. While it may have been good/better than your swishers, cigars are waaaaaaay better when properly maintained. At this point, the cigars you have probably aren't worth keeping. Premium cigars need to be maintained in a humidified environment, and part of the cap (the closed bit) needs to be cut in order to smoke them (unlike something like backwoods).

Some of my favorite "entry level" (really, you can start with smoking with whatever you like, taste is taste :) cigars are the Perdomo 10th Anniversary Champagne, the Man of War Ruination, and the Undercrown. These cigars vary a bit in taste, and can help you draw out your palate pretty well (though really, you can smoke whatever you like).

There is a great reccomendation page in the wiki (and the wiki is very useful for just starting out, it will contain everything in depth!). For buying cigars, I'd suggest finding five-packs of things you're interested in on CigarMonster, where a five pack will average around $20-25.

For maintaining your cigars, I'd suggest a larger tupperware container with a good seal. Take the tupperware container, wash it well with soap and hot water (to get the plastic smell out), get two or three boveda packs, and just drop them in there with your cigars (take the boveda packs out of their plastic wrappers, but don't tear them open). Bingo!

It's a great hobby, and really doesn't cost a lot to get into. Just stay financially responsible, and don't smoke when you can't afford it :)

Just my $0.02 after years of fiddling with electronics and various gadgets. This goes for a lot of cleaning questions and tips here.

DON'T use a toothpick or compressed air unless there is a route/path of egress.

Sure, if you're careful you may be able to brush out some of the dust and grime, but forcibly doing so (using a toothpick or compressed air) is also very likely to push dust and dirt into areas where you really don't want it.

Unless you've disassembled your device and are cleaning it from the inside out, you are pushing junk into the device.

If you have some loose-ish stuff that won't come out by gently tapping the device face-down against your palm, for example, then you can try a soft-bristle brush. Again, though, this introduces a force that can push debris into the device.

You can try something called Cyber Clean , which is a putty that is specifically meant to lift stuff off/out of surfaces and crevices.

For prevention, the best option is probably a case (that wraps around/covers the gap. This will still introduce a little 'nook' between the front panel and the front edge of the case, but this is much easier to clean. Just take off the case and wipe away the 'frame' of grime left behind. Make sure not to wipe it over the gap between the front panel and the phone body, though.

Honestly, the kit is only an OK deal. It's fairly overpriced for what it contains.
For less money (assuming I'm looking at the same bundle as you), I'd get the following:

• http://amzn.com/B00BS3GM7I - same foam gun, different branding
  
• http://amzn.com/B00BJCAPEE - Mr. Pink is PH balanced soap that foams extremely well, and is just as good in buckets. Citrus Wash and Gloss will strip wax.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00RDMBTNA- Microfiber wash mitts.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00ANZHG7C- Cheap, half decent microfibers.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00EVY2LKI - Drying Towels
  
  Also, it's really important, at least in my opinion, to have 2 buckets and Grit Guards. I'd get two of these: http://amzn.com/B00ABYVTZA and pick up some buckets at Home Depot or Lowes, or order one of the bucket/grit guard kits from Autopia.
  
  Finally, Microfibers are an investment as long as you take care of them. What I linked is cheap, OK quality stuff. Check out The Rag Company, and maybe consider getting one of their starter packs for better rags.

Good choice. I have the same. Here are some bullet points:

• I have a job box that I set it on top of to cook, and store it inside the job box when not in use.
  
• I keep the grate indoors and clean it after every use. A simple course steel pad will work just fine. It and some Dawn dish soap.
  
• I clean out the ash after every use. (I store it in a knee high metal trash can)
  
• I use a chimney stack to start standard charcoal briquettes You only need to fill it 3/4 of the way full.
  
• You can easily close the vents and cap off to kill the briquettes and use them on the next grilling.
  
• I clean grill itself twice a year. Once in the fall before the winter season. And then again late spring/early summer. Once again, some Dawn and the above steel scouring pad works fine.
  
  I cook all the time for my lady and myself. 4 burgers. 8 wings. A full slap of spare ribs (cut in haft), 2 T-bone steaks, Shish-kabobs . So this grill is perfect for your application. Granted, don't plan on cooking a side with most meals, as the meat takes up a good amount of room.
  
  
• Yes you can do Hot and Cold sides. Just put your charcoal to one side. Granted this does limit your cooking space. So you may have to do something like burgers in batches.
  
  Oil is not needed. Thou I tend to Pam not stick spray the griddle right before I put the meat on. It works fine. A little elbow grease when you clean it may be needed, but it is fairly easy.
  
  Some Proof of what I have done with mine:
  
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/512344565479911424
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/493891657683574784
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/466727864847441920
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451459503956176898
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451443387242389504
  

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I8II22/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1376521564&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Looks like you didn't quite read your own link... 10 bucks for a single battery. Now let's have a little comparison.

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00339NINQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1376521711&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

Four batteries plus the charger? For four more dollars? And doesn't require a USB cable or a wall adapter or Playstation 3 to charge?

Yeah that's substantially cheaper.

I'll do you a favor, I looked it up and found the same battery for five bucks total. Not bad.

However, you can get four Energizer batteries for a little over 10 dollars anywhere they sell batteries.

So each battery is half of what the Playstation 3 one is. Like I said, substantially cheaper.

>I fail to see your point sorry..... Oh and here is a little present:

>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sRT4h_YMQ4

>If you consider that hard to do, then your intelligence is really lacking and there's truly no other reason to continue this discussion.

I said it was more difficult, not that it was impossible to do. You're not refuting anything.

Also, you do realize this voids the warranty. Good luck getting a replacement if you try this.

>
I'm sorry you are stuck with tons of devices which operate on your precious AA's, I only have my TV remote and Direct TV controller that use such trinkets.

Once again, this refutes nothing about what I said.

>Sorry for the bad grammar I'm on my Iphone which uses one of those proprietary non-removable batteries which make life easier, maybe they should make a phone which uses AA's so you don't have to look for charger!

I'm on a phone too... It's not difficult to have proper spelling and grammar.

For some reason, you really, really want it to sound like these built in batts are some massive innovation but they're really not. It uses the exact same tech to make the Energizer ones and they're nearly identical when it comes down to the performance.

What exactly makes these built in batteries so amazing? What can they do that AA's can't? Just answer that and maybe you'll have a leg to stand on in this little debate. Because so far all you've given me is, "It plugs in to the console!" Big whoop, that's not really a big deal.

Does it have holes or does it just leak through the cloth? I don't know how well it will work but you can try water replant spray. Don't know how often it rains where you are but this stuff got good reviews and it worked on my tent rain fly and my boots.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HJ7CLY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Edit:
Lol just realized this was posted in Augusta sub, and i live in Evans. Guess i do know how much it rains where you are lol

On another note i used to waterproof my boots by using a hair dryer to warn the cloth and rubbing sealing wax into it, worked great for boots, water would bead off them. Might have to do or once or twice a year if it's exposed to the elements all the time but it's cheaper than replacing the top.

Lets start before Cubans, and I'll assume you know nothing about cigars and just start from the beginning.

Okay, as far as humidors go, there are a bunch of options. The quickest and easiest way is to buy a tupperware container that seals well and a few boveda packets (you can get either on amazon). I'd recommend 65% if you're using a "tupperdor" (69% for a wooden humidor...of course depending on the climate where you live etc...). Rough rule of thumb is to use one 60 gram packets for every 25 cigars the container can fit. We'll get more into wood humidors later.

The next thing you'll want to have is a digital hygrometer. You can snag one for 15-20 bucks on amazon. If you're using multiple tupperdors, I wouldn't worry about having one in each, just switch the meter to a different container every week or so to make sure they're staying good. With boveda packets, you shouldn't have a problem. Anyway, when you get your hygrometer, you want to calibrate it. The packaging or instructions may say that it is calibrated at the factory and does not need to be tested. Ignore that. Get a bottle cap, fill it about 2/3 up with table salt, and a few drops of water. Put the cap in an airtight container (a zip lock bag will do) with the hygrometer. Wait a day, and see what the hygrometer says. If it says 75%, you're good. If it doesn't, adjust it until it does, and then leave it in the bag a few more hours to make sure it stays there. You will find that you may develop your own preference for the Relative Humidity (RH) of your cigars, but it your container is reading in the mid sixties to the low seventies, you're around where you want to be. Keep an eye on the temperature, too. I like to keep mine below 70 degrees F. If they get into the high seventies, your cigars may literally begin hatching beetles.

Now onto wooden humidors: these are much more of a pain in the ass than tupperdors, in terms of setting it up. As far as a specific model, there are a ton and it depends on too many things to specify from the information you gave. Personally, I'd recommend a humidor that can hold more cigars than you plan on needing. My first humidor holds fifty cigars. I now have another 25 count (although, that was free and I didn't need it until I figured "fuck it, might as well fill it"), a 100 count, and two tupperdors. So as far as picking one out, I'd recommend again going bigger than you think you need, make sure it is at least lined with spanish cedar, and just check reviews to see how it seals. Every humidor will have bad reviews because a lot of people don't know how to season them, so look for reviews from people who seem to know what they're doing. And I'd personally stay away from anything with a glass top, it's just another place it can lose a seal.

Speaking of seasoning, you have to season a wooden humidor, which means to sort of saturate the wood to the correct humidity level. If you don't, the wood will eat up the humidity being released by your humidifying thingamajig instead of it being all for your sticks. There's a couple ways to do this: you can get distilled water (or a premade solution of distilled water and propylene glycol, it really doesn't matter) and wipe the wood down with it, with a barely damp cloth or sponge. If you get the wood too wet, it will warp and the humidor won't seal. Then leave a bowl or shot glass filled with the distilled water in the humidor and let it sit a few days. Note that the water being distilled is not optional, do not use any other water, no tap, no spring water. Only distilled water. You want nothing in the humidor except spanish cedar, cigars, and moisture.

The easier way to season a humidor is to buy boveda seasoning packets. They regulate the environment in the humidor to 84%. Buy the same amount you'd need if they were regular bovedas, one per 25 cigar capacity. Put them in the humidor, close the humidor, come back 14 days later and take the packets out. Replace them with (I'd recommend) 69% packets. Put cigars in over the course of a few days (you don't want to add them all at once, it will swing RH levels).

I'd recommend this for a tupperdor, in the largest size:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284AG5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this humidor, I like it:
http://www.cheaphumidors.com/the-othello-checkerboard-pattern-cigar-humidor.html

I also have this smaller humidor which I'm still seasoning, but it seems to seal well enough:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NZK9K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seasoning packets:
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-Humidity-Seasoning-Humidifier-Dehumidifier/dp/B004NXXBLA/ref=sr_1_10?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502648759&sr=1-10-spons&keywords=boveda+seasoning&psc=1

Packets to regulate RH (pick whatever RH you'd prefer, I like 69 for wood and 65 for tupperdor):
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502648826&sr=1-1&keywords=boveda+69

Distilled water/propylene glycol if you want to go that route:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040OEB6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hygrometer (I like round ones because a lot of humidors will have a cutout for the shitty analog hygro they all come with and the round ones will fit there):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004167OY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone let me know if I missed anything.

Edit: I didn't mention beads, the "soak this weird thing in distilled water" humidifier or kitty litter because I really don't think there's a good reason to steer someone towards them, but I really haven't ever used any of it so if someone wants to add something about those, please do.

My favorite movie is Hot Rod because it's hilarious. I love to watch it and get other people to watch it. I also love to quote it and love when people understand the references.

Here's the $20 item. Here's the $5 item. I'm not dead set on either of these so feel free to choose different if I'm picked.

I'm not sure...when I did my contest I ended up giving multiple small gifts. But it was a pain in the butt because of the Add-on Item nonsense. I think my next contest I will do one item. So there's that.

Currently Amazon has the blue/yellow single Grand Trunk hammocks for $25. Pretty awesome price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A0IH5I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Tent Waterproofing - $9.99
  
  
• Battery Backup 15600 mAh, aka MASSIVE - $29.99
  
  
• Tent stake mallet with pulling peg - $7.00
  
  
• Glow in the dark tent stakes x10 - $9.18
  
  
• Action Poncho (very high quality for a possible rain out) - $12.60
  
  
• Battery powered 10" tent fan - $22.98
  
  
• Mini battery powered fan - $5.88
  
  
• Chill Pad headband - $6.57
  
  
• LED headlamp - $6.99
  
  
• Highly rated sleep mask - $9.89

Thanks for the reply.

>Rechargeable batteries are different, they put out fill power all the way until the end and then just die.

Yes, I'd rather have that then the sound slowly degrading and being unbearable.

>i'd save the hassle and go with a good brand like Duracell or Energizer rechargeable ones, 2400mah

I had the impression that Panasonic Eneloops were great and reliable batteries from the many websites talking about them and people's reviews all over Amazon. What do you think? Are those not good?

What about this one? What do you think about the top review on that battery/charger combo?

NP :) Let me know what you end up going with.


Here is one thing that you should really consider. Cigar's are very sensitive to humidity. That's why(as I'm sure your aware) cigar's are stored in humidors, where the humidity is controlled, and held at a very precise level. Since you don't have a humidor, I would highly recommend one of the following two options:

1. Give the cigars to your brother a two or three weeks before the bachelor party. Obviously tell him that your intention is to smoke them together. Then he will be able to place them in his humidor for safe keeping.
   
   
   
   
2. Use a zip-lock bag and a boveda pack. A boveda pack releases and absorbs moisture to maintain an exact level of humidity in a confined space. A zip-lock bag is a cheap, airtight container that will allow you to store the cigars with the boveda pack. Put in a drawer(somewhere away from direct sunlight.
   
   
   

Wein Cell makes a great replacement for the original mercury battery. I'll provide the link below. The battery is the only one that is accurate, and is not too costly. I don't know how long the battery lasts, I hear it usually goes for 3 months before the battery wains. The camera can also shoot fully manual, with no battery in the camera at all. It's very handy for learning to shoot film, and also if the battery runs out you're not completely out of luck. I'd highly recommend the camera, I found it for $70 on eBay in very good condition, only needed new light seals. I love my camera, definitely look into it. http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

When starting out always go for the tupperdor route. It doesnt matter what the environment is the cigars remain the same rh.

​ The default setup for a new cigar smoker is this: Systema container | cedar tray | Boveda 65 | Hygrometer. You could get away with not buying the hygrometer as long as you use the Boveda's but It's always good to know the rh. Other recommendations: The Cuban Crafters Perfect Cutter and another great tool to have is the PerfecDraw, not cheap but worth every penny.

Heads up- forever new bra wash is great to use. Just get a little bucket to dissolve the powder in (cool) water, and kind of dip and rub your bras in the solution. Better for your bra fabric, super gentle on sensitive skin.

I used one of these and a 5 gallon bucket to wash clothes for a couple of years. That was for two adults, a toddler, baby, and included cloth diapers. It’s quite an arm workout, but was doable. It was tedious to hand wring everything out before hanging it to dry, but overall saved us so much money in laundry costs. It’d be a really great option for a single person.

They're fucked, must've used the wrong charger for them, or the charger malfunctioned. They won't explode, but I doubt they will be useful for more than like 2 miles.

Good news: It's not too terribly expensive to replace them: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-12V-20AH-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B00KC39BE6

Though I'd 100% upgrade to LiFePo4 batteries instead, a drop in upgrade no modifications needed: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

LiFePo is superior Wh/kg and will last you pretty much forever.

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

>lead in the sliding tracks of the old double hung wooden sash windows (which we are leaving closed for now).

Old windows like that are the worst for lead dust production.

Wet mopping followed by tack cloth is one of the ideal ways to ensure you're cleaning up the site as best as possible.


The "trick" we're taught in the cert class regarding swab testing:

But a lead test kit like this. Instead of dabbing the end of the tester on the scores in the paint you've made (you do know that in order to test for lead paint you have to score down to the base material, because testing the top layer of paint alone doesn't give accurate results), you squeeze out the testing liquid onto q-tips and then swab the q-tips onto the surface you desire to test.

It is possible to get up to about 8 q-tips sufficiently wet with the test liquid to perform tests, which means you can perform about 8 tests per tube of test fluid.

If in doubt about the results, retest a spot directly with a full tube.

Regarding your vac, just to be clear...did it come with a certificate stating what RRP tests it passed?

The way HD's description reads doesn't clearly indicate that. Want to make sure you're not being mislead by the vendor.

You should be able to find something like this in your vac literature:

>Certified to meet EPA RRP standards: IEST-RP-CC001.5 insuring a minimum filtration efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3 micron

The write up for the Rigid vac just says it "Meets the EPA's definition of a HEPA vacuum under the RRP rule for lead paint renovations".

It doesn't state that it is certified for use. I would follow up on that if I was in your position.

>I recently bought a play and charge kit from eBay...the battery won't charge...Does anyone have a solution?

if the item was sold as new and/or in working condition, return it. eBay has pretty favorable buyer protection. if it was sold as-is, you are out of luck.

in addition to a stand-alone charging station, your choices are as follows:

• buy a genuine Microsoft play and charge kit, which will have a (short) warranty.
  
  
• buy four (or more) rechargeable AA batteries and a charger.
  
  
• buy a ton of AA batteries.
  
  All three of those choices are around $15 delivered (assuming you are in the USA).

This is my favorite lighter, it's a triple flame, so it's good for everything except getting the milkiest hits out of a water piece. For thick bong rips I suggest using a single flame. I have an honest single flame torch from my sticky brick. Works super great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RM2yCb3GQJFHX

I can’t speak to the F3, but I love my Canonet. I have an earlier model QL17 with a 45mm lens. I have only used the wein cell battery and my light meter has been very accurate. I usually point towards the ground to meter for shadows and then manually set my exposure.

Previously, I have only shot on canon DSLRs. I have really enjoyed working with a rangefinder. I did a first impressions post in the rangefinders subreddit and all of my posts on analog have been from my Canonet.

Just my 2 cents!

People would melt lead ingots in them and use the melted lead to make fishing weights or bullets, most commonly. It's not terribly common, but it definitely happened and is possible. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU) is one of the better ways to check if your pan is contaminated- ideally when restoring and it's stripped down to bare iron.

Shopping for a specific backpack is a really personal choice.

So I'm going to mention some brands that are known to have high quality, and Lifetime Warranties.

Personally, I use a Swiss Gear Synergy that I bought back in 2007.

I've built 6 or 8 new offices, all over the country (SanFran, NYC, Boston, Sacramento, among others) and one office + data center in Ireland with all my nerd-gear in that thing.
The sternum strap broke, and I had to put a dozen stitches into the right shoulder strap to keep it from fraying.
It has a lifetime warranty, so I can get it replaced the next time something breaks.
All the zippers are intact, no holes in any compartment, and it still looks in pretty good shape for being just shy of 10 years old, with probably 50,000 travelling miles on it.

It makes no claim to be waterproof, but its been rained on a few times, and protected my stuff adequately.

I suppose I could hose it down with silicone spray if I wanted more enhanced protection.

Most, if not all SwissGear bags have lifetime warranties - same for Jansport.
LLBean backpacks all have fantastic lifetime warranties.
North Face, Timbuk2, Everki, Osprey and many others also offer Lifetime Warranties.

I'm confident one of those manufacturers has something that suits your fancy.

I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.

I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?

Does that sound correct?

Tupperdor. Can be any size you like pretty much. They cedar trays are completely optional.

Buy this:
Sistema 1870 Klip It Collection Rectangle Food Storage Container, 232 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tFGGBbEKPFVT7

And this:
Boveda 65% RH 2-Way Humidity Control for Cubans, Oily Wrapper Cigars & Wooden Humidors, 4 Count 60-Gram Packets (Humidifier/Dehumidifier)-by Boveda Inc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KVC1VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OHGGBbZ56RXAT

Then add a hygrometer like this:
Cigar Oasis Caliber IV Digital Hygromter by Western Humidor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lIGGBbM73ZESW

If you want trays, I like these and two of them fit with room to spare around the sides for your bovidas and hygrometer.
F.e.s.s. Fess Storage versatility Cedar Tray with Adjustable Divider https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733TYGWX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SffLBbPJZC8XN

Store in a cool part of the house. Done.

It's a modern Lodge skillet.

Look at castironcollector.com for instructions on how to restore.

I'd recommend the yellow-cap oven cleaner in a bag, scrubbing with stainless steel wool, and then a short diluted vinegar bath followed quickly by seasoning with Crisco. Three coats is what I'd recommend.

Good luck, that's a nice pan!

When steaming isn't enough and I actually need to wash delicates, I hand wash with Forever New. It's a powder that dissolves easily in water, has a nice scent, and I feel like it does a good job of cleaning (and rinses easily!). I only use a little bit at a time, so I expect the bottle will last quite a while.

I would recommend fully packing, the easiest way to do so is to use the Dynavap like a straw - take the cap off and "sip"up some bud into the chamber, it will fill it nice and full with plenty of airflow. I find this gets me a good 5-7 hits per bowl, and if im alone I usually get a decent high out of 1 with high tolerance. as for the BIC I would avoid it and find a decent lighter like this one https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=323595996874&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002357&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=255410970231067064&hvtargid=kwd-315003177522&hydadcr=19145_10832515&keywords=vertigo+quad+lighter&qid=1568745741&sr=8-2

Love mine!

You may want to invest in a Skunk Case as well to contain the smell and to protect your pricey investment.

Enjoy!

Roughly speaking: Brushless is better for your paint - brush is better at removing dirt/grim. Bring a chamois and some wax-as-you-dry. Pull over to the side of the car-wash when you're done and dry/wax the car off (doesn't have to be perfect). Use a different cloth to dry your wheels. You dont want brake dust/particulate making it's way back up to your paint. Pretty simple methodology I use, but then again i'm down south where it's not below 32F everyday. hope this helps point you in the right direct! post up some pics when she's clean!

Chamois example

If it's hops you'll have to clean out the tube/poppet/tap/etc. then find a way to filter it BEFORE it enters the dip tube.

Someone below mentioned a muslin bag, but that might cause resistance or foam up the beer.

Stainless steel scouring pads might work. (this was suggested to me once here when I had the same issue). THESE But make sure you boil/sanitize them first and then just get it the bottom of the keg around the bottom of the dip tube. The idea is this will catch the hop sediment before it enters the dip tube. Good luck!

Cyber clean is my best friend.

Cyber Clean 25055 Home & Office Pop-up Cup - 5.11 oz. (145g) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIGOCb5Q90FRS

I have the matte silver variety. I did a lot of research concerning keeping it clean.

This stuff right here is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And for the love of god, don't wax it or use anything that will get into the pores of the paint. Place I bought mine from has two used streetys with glossy washed out matte paint jobs because their previous owners tried to polish them.

A large microfiber cloth works great for fingerprints and such. The smaller ones are insufficient, like the ones for eyeglasses, so I recommend the ones that are roughly 6" squared. These ones look like the ones I use; they're good for cleaning the mirrors in your house and the windshield in your car since they don't streak:

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/

edit: don't use the same cloth that you was your windshield with on your Surface, the ammonia cleaner will eat through the protective covering.

The grips are Ivory and can be worth a huge amount. You should get the two 1862's (not quite sure that's what they are, would need better view of them) lettered from colt. They could be worth potentially 10,000 or more each, especially if that's factory engraving.

DO NOT CLEAN THEM. You do not know what you're doing, you will fuck them up. Your best bet would be to find a professional restorer or gunsmith (not just some jackass that can change a shotgun barrel either) and have them clean them properly. More antique guns are ruined by "I'll just scrub this rust off" and "how could this possibly harm the finish, it's made for guns" than by anything else. If you must do anything, a careful brushing with a firm bristled toothbrush (and nothing else. No copper brushes, steel brushes, steel wool, brass brushes or cleaners on the toothbrush) to remove dust and dirt followed by the use of a product like renaissance wax to impede further degradation is what I would recommend. The ivory needs to be treated especially carefully, as it gets older, it gets very fragile.

I would suggest contacting someone like Turnbull or another well recommended restorer as soon as possible.


http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

http://www.turnbullmfg.com/

Similar in weight to a twist lock tupperware; my 2 cup twist lock "cup/bowl", lid and cozy sit at 1.94oz. I use mine for coffee, to rehydrate meals in or to soak food in. Having a screw top lid is awesome and my toaks 750 pot will nest inside the cup (without the lid on, i just put the lid on top of the pot).

These are very cheap and easy to find - click here

Keeps my coffee or food nice and hot!

303 Aerospace should work great it's a cleaner and protectant, but you might also like Nextzett which I posted above.

For matte paint/PPF I would recommend Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Quick Detailer: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_995_16-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948037&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+detailer+for+matte

For towels, I like:

Plush for cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCKE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Miscellaneous Disposable (not for dirty surfaces since they are low plush): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00937YLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Waffle weave for drying: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_781_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948166&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+drying

Lint free for glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're looking to do a long term value purchase, here's a great setup I can recommend! You may even already have some of these products reducing from the investment cost!
Electric Pressure Washer - $89

Snow Foam Cannon Attachment - $17.88

Shammy / Chamois Towel of Your Choice* - $8.25

Shammy / Chamois help you remove the water off a car so you can go ahead and start waxing once its dry.

1 Gallon of Snow Foam - $29.99

22 Oz Spray Wax Bottle - $12.99

Any pack of microfiber towels, spray like 2 sprays of wax on the microfiber, wipe around, take another microfiber to wipe away wax. $4

1 Gallon Acid / Non-Acid Based Wheel Cleaner (This one is acidic) - $18.99
Dilute the wheel cleaner, spray on the wheels and tires, let it sit for a little bit, then pressure wash off.

Add a clay bar if you want to get embedded dirt / brake dust off your paint! It's easy to do, costs a little, but the results are worth it.


THESE ARE MOSTLY PREMIUM CLEANING PRODUCTS! You can cut a few dollars off by going with more generic products. Why go with Gallons? You dilute all of these (except wax of course), so they will last you a looooooooooooooooong time if used correctly.

The investment is worth it if you ask me, instead of going through your local 1 minute wash for $10 or whatever, you can do a more thorough job yourself!

I would suggest washing in a bucket because it's easier to swirl around and scrub the clothes. This should help with the musty smell. You can wash your clothes with a bar of Zote or Fells Naptha which is $1 at Walmart and should last a few months. In the longer term, you might want to invest in a washing board, washing wand or manual washer.

Can you line dry? I think it's one of the best ways to dry clothes and your only costs would be a line and some clothes pins. If you can't line dry, maybe a drying rack would work. In the long term a port

If line drying isn't an option

Welcome to r/cigars!

First thing you need to do is get rid of that paper towel asap! You will over humidify your cigars and you might get mold too! Go to your local B&M and get a boveda pack or order one online. Then use an air tight tupperware container to hold your cigars and humidity. Super cheap and many many people use this as an option. As for building your own. Get an ammo can or a gun case and line it with spanish cedar. It will hold humidity perfectly and you'll get your woodworking skills a bit wet for your next bigger project.

IMHO antistatic cleaning putty (like this https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4 ) is by far the best thing to clean controllers, especially when they're greasy from chipsfingers or have little dust or other particles in the tiny slits you can't regularly clean.

The putty costs like 10 bucks and usually lasts around a year before it dries out (depending on how often you clean I guess).

Make sure it's not in A mode when testing. If you don't have a battery it and it's in A it won't fire the shutter. It should when in manual mode though. If it works $50 is a nice price. It's a great camera. I like mine a lot. I stopped putting a battery in mine though, it's not really worth it and the meter probably need calibration. You can get a Wein cell from Amazon though.

Oh my.

Dry washing the car is definitely going to lead to scratches.

Not washing your car is going to lead to paint failure faster than if he protects his paint.

Rust is a valid concern, a lot of antique cars aren't washed with the 2 bucket method for fear of water puddling and creating rust in a spot that the owner won't catch till it's too late. If he feels that strong, consider rinseless washing.

Slinging polish around with a PC means that you put too much polish on the pad. It's tiresome holding on to a machine that is essentially sanding down a minor amount of clearcoat, but the shine is worth it.

Swirls will happen, even with proper use of the two bucket method. But they can be minimized greatly with proper washing techniques.

Is the stripe vinyl? Something like CG Meticulous Matte Detailer & Spray Sealant can be used to clean it and seal it.

That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.

I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.

Just buy this lighter. Dynavap also uses these for some of their kits, but you can just get two of them for less than 9 bucks each here, and they work great. All my cigar-smoking friends swear by them too.

There are a lot of us from DMV on here, and several good cigar shops in the area as well. What area in D, M, or V are you located?

If your humidifier has the green material in it, you probably want to pitch it. Eventually it will start to get moldy, which will then transfer to your cigars. The Drymistat tubes are good, and a lot of people here use Boveda packs (also available at most cigar shops). Other than a calibrated hygrometer -- again, common opinion here is to go with a digital one -- you're good to go with you humidor.

Hey Maggie,

​

Over the last couple of years I too have started to really enjoy the pleasures of cooking full on meals out on the trail. I went through the same struggle, bought a few different pots, burned a bunch of food along the way, and all of that.

​

I finally bit the bullet and paid the money to try out one of those MSR ceramic nonstick pots, and that really changed things for me. Highly recommend them. The aluminum gives a good heat distribution and the ceramic coating does a great job.

​

I use a stainless steel scrub pad on mine, and so far it does not appear to have caused any damage to the coating, but I am not sure I would go and throw sand and rocks inside of the pot, I am just not sure what that would do.

​

Also, I first bought the 1.3L and found it to be an "ok" size, but when I really wanted to cook a nice meal, it just felt to be on the small size, so I ended up buying the 2.5L version, and that has really opened up the dishes that I am able to cook out on the trail. The extra 3.5 oz for the larger version, on those trips when I wanna cook a nice meal, just seems worth it for the extra room/volume in the pot. It is one of those things where the food seems to always be at the very top of the pot (with the 1.3L) versus having a bit of extra room inside of the pot to stir things around, and even add a bit of extra liquid should the need arise.

​

The lid on the S2S is better for straining and cleans easier, but I did not like the handle and the coating on the pan was not as good as the MSR.

​

I did not try the halulite, because when it comes to cooking, a wide and short pot is better than a tall and narrow, and the halulite is the latter of the two.

​

I have seen pictures of a few hikers that have caused damage to the MSR Ceramic pots, but every single time I have looked at their pictures, it was clear that they had their stoves in some kind of freakish afterburner mode and just caused heat damage. Keep your stove on low to medium and these MSR ceramic pots will serve you very well.

These are the test strips, they're mostly used for lead paint and sold at most hardware stores too. The blood lead test is a simple blood draw, just tell your primary care doctor that you may have had some chronic lead exposure recently and want to be sure you didn't get too much in you. You're probably fine, but it's best to get checked so in case you were significantly exposed via your clothes/toiletries/etc it can be treated.

Kiwi Camp Dry was the most commonly recommended spray for general waterproofing of tent materials. I was able to find it for a few dollars cheaper at Walmart than Amazon, and I've also heard of it being found at Target. I haven't gotten a chance to try it before and after yet, but I've heard some very promising tales.

Seam sealer also comes highly recommended, which is to seal the stitching around the base of the tent and any windows or other places that may potentially leak due to poor craftsmanship. I sat inside my tent while it downpoured and made sure to apply this at any spot where it was dripping. The difference just from this stuff was amazing, but if the tent itself is thin you'll also want the Kiwi product.

Wipe the car down with one of these.

I've used them for years, including on my model 3. If the car is clean it won't scratch. It'll suck up ALL of those water spots. It's brilliant. Just be sure to keep our moist.

Edit: Results: https://i.imgur.com/rHHNEQk.jpg

I added one of these batteries and am running them in parallel with the original. It will fit in the front truck with a little trimming. Also had to run new wires. Combined with the original battery (or even alone), it runs for days as the linked battery is almost twice the capacity as the original. Also is a bit faster as there is less voltage drop. People also recommend a better charger.

If you do get one, don't run it with the old worn out battery. It will drain the new one faster. If you wanted to run two, you could buy another oem replacement battery as the one I linked will not fit in the rear trunk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6

Maybe something like these vinyl bags with zipper sliders. Not sure if food grade and probably heavier than ziplock bags, but reusable.

In terms of a container you can store food and cook with, some hikers like pots like this Vargo BOT bottle pot that has a screw on lid. Maybe add hot or cold water to a plastic container with a screw on lid like this one from ziplock and let it soak all day.

https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW


Also it could be the butane that you use. I had the same issues before and then I did some research and that is usually the problem. Buy good butane like Vector 14x or Xikar high performance high altitude. I used lesser brands before and through away lighters, luckily they weren’t expensive. Also make sure you bleed the lighter fully before each refill. But I have two of those lighters I linked and they work flawlessly.

I use a pretty cheap tri flame butane torch lighter I found on Amazon. Works really well regardless of weather.

Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Charcoal 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: lol I think this might be exactly what you have.

I've seen lots of recs for Soak as a no-rinse delicate wash though I've never used it.

I personally am a fan of the Forever New wash for handwashing delicate items and bras. It's super easy to use. I fill a sink with cold water, add the detergent and swish to dissolve, put in my clothes and agitate for like 30 seconds and then wait for 3-5 minutes. Then I drain the sink and rinse each piece quickly and hang dry. I find that it gets out stains really well (even old yucky ones) and doesn't leave a residue.

It's a drying chamois with a different coating to make it slide over dip easier while holding a bit more fluid. These are pretty good on dip and paint, and it's what the Dip Washer cloth is based on. You can pick up the chamois online or at Walmart and stuff.

My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.

As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.

I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.

I do polish any new straights I get with Renaissance Wax like /u/uhgly mentions but I do this before honing but I am not convinced it does anything useful. If you try polishing an already honed razor then it might affect the edge and require at least a touch-up before shaving. I also wipe down my straights with a clean cloth and a drop of Rem Oil before storage. It leaves no visible oil coating but does create an iridescent sheen but that comes off with a quick wipe. For long term storage I like to keep individual straights in 8x2-inch plastic bags.

I went through this with my son around one as well, For 6 months his levels where elevated.

Call your doctor and ask who they would recommend you speak to about lead being in the home. My doctor sent me to my local county health authority. They came out and inspected my house from the floor up. We discovered our issue was an old built in cabinet and had it removed. Other options are avail even though.

They explained that you can buy lead test sticksamazon carries them as well as most hardware stores and can test the house yourself. You will want to start in areas your toddler frequents, and start low aka their level. Document all areas that pop positive for lead.

Yeah, comparing the meter against another camera is a good idea. Is it really so expensive to mail it to the States? I've done crazier things. Sent my Pentax from Texas to Tennessee to have it overhauled, although I guess that's not as far.

As an alternate solution, these Wein batteries are specially designed to output the same 1.35V as the original discontinued mercury cells. They're expensive, though: http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=pd_cp_p_1

It would be pretty easy to build something similar for a lot cheaper. Pick up a used suitcase at the thrift shop, mount a 50w panel on the outside (much better than the 10W panel in the case you linked to.) Inside the case, mount a charge controller with USB, this 20Ah battery (again, better than the 16Ah in the other one), and this 500W inverter (not sure how big the one in the expensive case it, but 500W should be enough.) So for less than $250 and a little bit of build work, you can have a much more functional system (500% larger solar capacity and 25% more battery capacity).

Sorry, somehow I did not see that there were some comments on here. Yeah, I got the Titan case that a lot of people raved about, and did not care for it very much. But this skunk case on Amazon is totally perfect. Completely airtight an odor proof. Weird right now it shows as being out of stock on Amazon.

Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OqKMxbT6KKKK9

I use this stuff on metals, including occasionally on pens I want to protect:

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418940793&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax

My jar is 20 years old, but seems to work fine and looks just like the one @ amazon. I originally got it to keep swords from rusting while unused.

Only because it looks like you might have stripped the paint and might be sanding and that looks like older paint

use $20 and buy some EPA lead test swabs to check the paint for lead https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU

lead is a powerful neurotoxin and if inhaled or absorbed through your skin - you won't finish the last tread before you start feeling the effects of lead (you'll find other things to do than finish the treads)

I haven't tried it but this putty seems pretty cool:
Putty

these would be better since they are larger. They will last longer and work for more cigars. this is a generally well regarded digital hygrometer as well if you're making an Amazon order.

You can use the ones for cleaning!

I use these. I'm sure you can find some cheaper than these, but they work well and the colors help me differentiate them from other cloths.

I know the consensus is to go with Eneloop batteries but I've been using Energizer rechargeable batteries for over two years and they work great.

Cyber Clean

It's amazing! Your keyboard is fresh and not at all disgusting ever, I wouldn't want to go without it \^\^

I would suggest looking at milder stuff before you go the full body route and get too much of a nic hit. If you can find a My Father Connecticut, I highly suggest it!

Do you need a wood humidor? I know they look very nice, but they are not very efficient. If looks are not important look into getting a tupperdor.

Size isn't a huge deal, but you do want the locks to make a proper seal.

You'll want a good hygrometer Though with the seal your humidity should be fine. There's also a push sensor you can get for $20 now.

Then at least two boveda packs. Probably 65% imo.

Probably the best product to coat your barrel with to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax. This is what museums use to protect metal, and other, objects in their collections.

You might save them with some TLC. The question is is it worth it. Depends on the sticks. Assuming you want to proceed, get an airtight container something like this, put the cigars in with one of these. Then just wait a few months.

I remember trying a product called [Cyber Putty] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00375JBL4) a while back and I found that that worked really well. Sometimes there was remaining putty on the keyboard but nothing you couldn't get rid of with another roll of the putty. It was always difficult to get in between the keys but this pretty much did the job. The best part was that it was reusable...up to a certain point.

In the u.s. people use a lot of different things. Some people like the flimsy little bottles, some people like harder sided gatorade bottles, some just use coca cola bottles!

As for a cold soaking container - do you have access to these? https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Loc-Containers-Lids/dp/B000LNY1D8

They don't leak and are 16 oz. The talenti jars are 16 oz as well.

The vertigos. 2 for $17 on Amazon. Good price point and very dependable. Had mine for over 2 years now. The only downside I found is that sometimes the little screw on some of them comes loose between the top and the tank. Easy to tighten back up with a small screwdriver like one that comes in those eye glass repair kits.

https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW

For one, the hand-held Metro Vacuum ED500 is probably one of the best investments you can make. It has worked flawlessly for me for over 2 years.

As for cleaning LCDs my personal favorite has been this

http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Laptop-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420159104&sr=8-1&keywords=bryson+lcd

Along with a nice set of microfiber cloths

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420159264&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+cloth+zwipes

Quick tip, if you're ever unsure whether your cloth will damage a screen or leave scratches, take it and find an old cd and try to rub the bottom of the CD as hard as you can. If you see more scratches then before, I would avoid using it, but if it comes out scratch-free then its safe to use.

Most will recommend the Sistema 1870.

You can optionally get a Spanish Cedar Drawer for organization.

You will need a hygrometer.

And finally Boveda. Most people will recommend 62% or 65% for a tupperdor setup.

Looking great ! what cleaner do you use for your wipe down? I have been using this one http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI99516-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453325921&sr=8-1&keywords=chemical+guys+matte in between washes, mostly for bird poop.

I bought THESE. So far, they have worked well for me. Nothing 'Big Name' about them, but I've used them and washed them a couple times and they hold up fine to normal use. Hard use seems to wear them out, but they are pretty cheap.

Yes. u/funbob suggested the 20Ah version for only ~$5 more, but it has screw type terminals. The TS-180S draws 1.6A on standby, and ~20A on transmit. I would recommend at least three in parallel, which is 60Ah. It would take much longer to charge, but as a backup battery, that should be fine, because a 12v charger/maintainer allows you to leave it plugged in indefinitely, and it will always be charged and ready to use.

Hygrometer recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Importers-HygroSet-Hygrometer-Humidors/dp/B000H6CZQE

69% Boveda packs: https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1486016508&sr=1-1&keywords=69+boveda

You said you already have the humidors. The rest will take care of itself with a little monitoring. You can get as fancy, or as frugal as you want, these are really the only necessities though.

What sticks do you like by the way?

Thanks! Yup Mikey was always my fav. Here is the battery I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the best and exactly what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-1700-Collection-Rectangle-Container/dp/B002ARYB8I?pf_rd_p=dd4f5b57-ba5b-418b-a348-64ec62df14cc&pd_rd_wg=0Py5K&pf_rd_r=R5PS2EGNG7P032CQFWAJ&ref_=pd_gw_cr_simh&pd_rd_w=hOSZL&pd_rd_r=0311bab0-f171-4e9a-bf15-a7ac55a25cb0

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-patented-Unwrapped-Resealable-broadleaf/dp/B077KVC1VY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Boveda+65&qid=1573581468&sr=8-4

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-ITH-10-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Temperature/dp/B0140UC9XQ/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=hygrometer&qid=1573581498&sr=8-14

This stuff is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_2/185-1115514-7925907?ie=UTF8&qid=1397488317&sr=8-2&keywords=renaissance+wax+polish

I just have Energizer rechargeables that came with a station for like $12. I have had these for 3-4 years and they still work perfectly and I play a lot.

Edit: This isnt the exact one I have but it is the same thing: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Recharge-Rechargeable-Batteries-Included/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788026&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=energizer%2Brechargeable%2BAA%2Bbatteries&th=1

I, like you, had a cheap single-flame torch when i first got my Dynavap. I hated how long it took for me to hear it up as well, especially in windy or cold areas. I found these triple flame torches with great reviews on amazon and decided to order them. They come two to a pack at around $15 for the pack. So far, they’re very reliable, but I’m not too worried about that since they come with a lifetime warranty. and heat up my M much, much faster than my original single flame lighter.

Thank you. It's been quite a long road, but I did my research and bought the tools that got me through it.

It's just a lifestyle now.

https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Loc-Containers-Lids/dp/B000LNY1D8

Are your friend.

These are amazing and totally worth it. Dry the windows and steel first so don't get water spots.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY69V?pc_redir=1406880365&robot_redir=1

My pleasure.

This is what a bunch of people use including my self. I do have a real wood burl humidor but I find this so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-Microwave-Collection-Noodle-31-7oz/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sistema+KLIP+IT+Rectangular+Collection+Food+Storage+Container%2C236+Oz&qid=1569968747&sr=8-1


And for the Boveda people usually use between 65% and 70% I recommend this.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sxts_kp?keywords=boveda+67&pd_rd_i=B004LHSOBK&pd_rd_r=7b646bb8-358c-4cf6-a16c-a33cbe3765ab&pd_rd_w=BR0KH&pd_rd_wg=td0lO&pf_rd_p=81d99bd4-f902-4b23-8928-b05d50fd5b3c&pf_rd_r=TKJPQR38W0MAYQX607YQ&qid=1569968891

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Chemical Guys matte wash and detailer. I have a 2015 Gunner with the matte green finish and that stuff works wonders. Don't need a lot of the wash either to get the job done. Also, don't go cheap on some good quality microfiber clothes, with the matte finish, don't have a whole lot of protective coating so can easily be scratched.

Amazon. I just bought some to give an older rain jacket more life. Works pretty well!

Cool, I'm going to go with these and this. Thanks guys!

> whether that is removable or not is less important

This is quite important, as rechargeable batteries have a finite life as well. Imagine your non-replaceable battery pack dying.

Overall, its not a 'big' mistake, because you can go out and buy rechargable batteries anytime you want and use those, regardless if its through the charge and play pack or not.

I got this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i guess you just spray that on, wipe it off, good to go. Seems easy.

An excess of Distilled Water would also cause mold to develop as mold is likely to start to grow when humidity is > 74.

Have you considered switching to Boveda Packs? You do not have to worry about adding water and they work really well in most situations. For a Tupperdor, I would recommend the 65%.

Also, I'm assuming using Tap Water was a lapse of judgement and you know you should use Distilled Water. If not, let me know and we can have a talk about why you should not use Tap Water.

Go to home depot or lowes and buy a pack of these. They are around $2.50 for a pack of 3.

Sanitize 1. While you're doing that remove the liquid post and clear/re-sanitize it. When you put it back in, before pushing it all the way down use SS tongs or something to let you push the end of the dip tube into the middle of the pad. Push the dip tube all the way down and reattach post.

Depending on how much liquid is in the keg, you can use your hand (sanitized) and it's very easy to attach.

Problem solved for less than $1.

This is in my Christmas cart, wish me luck.

Bought the skunkcase on Amazon. Have had it for 2 weeks now. Works amazingly well.

Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bFHryb4F86Q96

Ya the only case I use is to hide the smell. So not really the question your asking but the skunkcase is fantastic, durable and water proof.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9HaMAbW8GQMX1

My wife and I spent a year in rural parts. Without power and water, there isn't the ability to wash clothes. Something like this would be invaluable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQCOCAM

Also, without running water look at various camping shower options. Some paracord and laundry pins are good too to dry out clothes in case they lost theirs in the storm (its not uncommon to use a washer but hang dry your clothes)

Edit: oh and tape and mosquito netting. I bet all the mosquito screens on windows are trashed, so the ability to tape up netting over the windows will help

Bought this off Amazon, works pretty well.

You can test the paint you're worried about with a kit at home. It's not very accurate, but will definitely tell you if there is lead in those paint chips.

If there is lead in there, get your blood tested. If you don't have symptoms of chronic lead poisoning, there's probably not much to worry about. But it's always nice to know for sure.

You just won't be able to use the light metering. I have the same camera, and this is the battery I use. Works like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009VQJ7/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

I haven’t ordered any dual torches from Amazon, but I’ve had a good experience with this Vertigo triple torch.

I like buying refillable lighters because bics have way too much plastic. I've got one of these guys with a bit of hemp wick wrapped around it, secured by a hair tie. Giant fluid reservoir and it's handy for melting the ends of rope and stuff.

ETA: My lighter rig

I have a blender bottle and love it. I use it as a regular water bottle (easy measuring for my water intake), fill it with my breakfast smoothie every morning, and I use the little ball to mix all my supplements and it works really well.

As for storing, I keep my protein in my desk at work since my gym is one floor up from my office but I've also found I can keep a small scoop and several servings of protein powder in these:

http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Loc-Containers-Lids/dp/B000LNY1D8

Looks like cooked on food, or hard water deposit. Go to the store, get a scouring pad, and go to town. It'll take awhile, but it should clean right up.

I use a garment mesh bag for cotton undies/tops and hand wash all delicates including undergarments and clothing items I don't want to risk with this, it's amazing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002USD5FC
I hang dry everything.

I also use meguiar's #26, This stuff is for after your paint is already clean and polished. It is a paste goes on ok, comes off pretty good and your ass will slide across the paint with ease. I use dish soap to clean, use castrol super clean on the tires and wheels, I use 409 inside the jambs. I have over 40 years in paint and body, and we make cars look good. I also use absorber for a chamois, works great and no dead goats. This squeegee is also great, small car not needed as much, but big ass cars it's a time saver.

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-18036-Ziploc-Twist-Containers/dp/B000LNY1D8/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369524753&sr=1-3&keywords=gladware

just cut a hole the size of your speedlite in the blue top, and then cover the rest of the top with aluminum foil, and place the assembled container on your speedlite upside down.

you can also use foil inside the container on what will be behind the subject, so as to not waste light.

you're probably better off just learning to bounce, though.

Got one of these for my 2 and it does the job really well. Hinge, lock, etc.

Pax 2 / Pax 3 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wTBybXHEH8ZA

ok, cancel you order from Thompson and lose their web address.

Then order these for humidification and this fo peace of mind.

edit: and if you don't have a tupperware yet, anything that looks like this with the sealing gasket will work. They sell them at target, walmart and everywhere online

Sometimes strong odors from the trunk can make their way into the cabin. I'd recommend using smell-proof cases and containers. Also, never consent to a search no matter what.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFDN80Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048Z5KUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A museum would use Renaissance wax., I've spoken to maritime archaeological conservators, they actually do use it. My uncle, a coin dealer who specializes in ancient coins (Roman and earlier) says that Johnson paste floor wax is the same thing as renaisance wax, and much cheaper. It smells quite a bit like car wax, for whatever that is worth.

I have had these single flame lighters for 2 years and recently tried out these triple flame torches because I wanted to heat in a hurry. The single flame allows for more temperature control but the triple flame is more wind resistant and heats faster. I like both but now use my homemade induction heater the most.

I don't know of any drill option. But here is another solution. I've never used one and don't own one. But it's worth a shot. https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hand+washing+machine&qid=1569200809&sr=8-5

I dont know if im the only one that feels no issue. I use a combination of two things.

1. a window or smoke buddy
   
2. this: Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5.EuxbGS814W8
   
   When the session is over I just put it back in its home. Sacrifice a little portability for peace of mind IMO

I recently bought this set on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BK15PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if anyone has a better suggestion. It's expensive, but I figured it was important enough to do right.

I've traveled from central Europe to UK and back a couple times with my pax in my checked bag. It's comletely fine if it's cleaned properly.
As to the case; I cannot tell you because I haven't got one, but I carry mine in a bag that comes with the Koss Porta Pro headphones. It's probably not completely smell proof but it does a decent job and I haven't noticed any significant smell leaks.
But if you want to be 100% sure about the smell, you might wanna check this one out.

Pax 3 has the same foot print as the Pax 2. (meaning anything made for the Pax 2 will work on the Pax 3)

Sorry but it is Anodized Aluminum. There is no buffing to be done, you will only wear down the coating. Depending on the color you may have some luck with a sharpie and a steady hand.

Firstly I would suggest a skin. This is the one i got, actual carbon fiber feel not just printed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skin-Wrap-For-PAX-2-PAX2-MOD-Vape-w-OVEN-TOP-Vinyl-Sticker-Decal-BLACK-CARBON/201334675953

Here are some other skins from the same shop

http://stores.ebay.com/707-Smart-Skins/_i.html?_dmd=1&_nkw=pax2

I had a Skunk Case for a while before the o-ring got loose and cause the hinge to break (partly my fault).

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Pocket-carry-Flip-top-Access-Skunkcase/dp/B01BFDN80Y

ID makes the cheapest smell proof option with their mylar bag.

https://www.interplanetarydevelopment.com/products/smell-proof-baggies-2-5x7-25

Sistema KLIP IT Utility Collection Bakery Box Food Storage Container, 14.8 Cup, Clear/Blue | BPA Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XSNP00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S3HwDbTJP7R9N

Boveda 69-Percentage RH Individually Over Wrapped 2-Way Humidity Control Pack, 60gm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FWPQ9D0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A4HwDbPHZ6W68

https://foxcigar.com/shop/accessories/boveda/boveda-butler/

You know what I like to do with work emails?

Ignore them.

Welcome to the sub! Get verified and start trading, man.

Also, here's some links to your new overflow tupperdor that you'll need once you get verified:

Tupperdor

Bovedas

Renaissance Wax is one of my favorites. You could possibly get Rottenstone and a little mineral oil to rub it out but I don't know how you are expecting it to look as far as sheen. Poly isn't a finish I ever mess with too much once it's on. I will usually spray it and forget it because it doesn't usually respond well to reworking (as you can tell). The wax should even things out for you and if you need to refinish it some day you can clean it with Denatured Alcohol before you sand it.

Here is one that I would highly recommend. Been using it since I got my pax and have never had a problem with smell.

Here is a good setup that doesn't cost much at all, right around $40. The next thing you need are cigars.

Sistema Tupperware

Boveda 65% rh 4 pack

Bra cleaning powder. It's specifically designed for hand washing fabrics that get smelly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002USD5FC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_s_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916349&sr=1-1&keywords=bra+cleaner

You can get lead check test strips from places like Amazon and some hardware stores. I don't know how accurate or precise they are. I think I've also seen kits that are more water quality tests that you can send off for analysis available in hardware stores.

I know sword, gun, and other antique collectors use Renaissance Wax to protect their metal items, especially for long term storage. It dries quickly, and provides a very hardy rustproof coating.

Going high on prices.
10-15$ jars
10-15$ for a tub
5-15$ vermiculite
10$ perlite
13-25$ for a syringe or 5 for 35. recommend these guys.
8$ for rice flour
30-100$ for a pc. (don't have to have this but it's good)

Somewhere between 60 and 120 dollars without the pc and sometimes you can find a pc at a garage sale for cheap or borrow your moms.
You can make your own brf with a coffee grinder, that would add 20ish. You can use these 1 pint Ziploc with screw on lids instead of jars but I would only use these if pc'ing, and make sure to melt inoc holes before pc'ing.