Reddit mentions: The best wood polish products

Hey there! First off, you might want to check out the sidebar which has a whole section on OCM.

No, you don't need to halt your whole routine in order to incorporate OCM into it. In fact, I follow a regimen pretty close to yours and use OCM every night.

Jojoba oil is usually pretty good for OCM because it very closely mimics the skin's natural oil. However, be careful because even though an oil might work really well for someone else doesn't mean it'll work well for you. Jojoba oil sadly broke me out--but give it a try because it might be great for your skin! I personally wouldn't recommend vitamin E oil because it's pretty comedogenic.

A good way to start off with OCM is to begin with plain mineral oil. It's basically baby oil without the fragrance. You can try using baby oil, but many people are sensitive to the fragrance. Lots of people like to use this brand. I personally just bought it myself as well!

If you're having trouble with acne, then mixing in tea tree oil or neem oil (which I think is amaaaazing) would really help. However, it's important to patch test these individually first to see if they mesh well with your skin.

I personally oil cleanse at night to take off all my makeup, and then follow up with a gentle cleanser. This is called double cleansing and it just helps make sure I get all the gunk out of my face.

I use this and like it OK. It doesn't break me out or anything, but once the bottle runs out I don't plan on re-buying it.

The hydrating cleanser should work all right for you, but if you're having problems with oiliness despite moisturizing well, you should try switching to the foaming. Also I use Neutrogena Clear Face sunscreen and like it a lot. It goes on nicely with only a little white cast.

From a simplicity point of view, I definitely think oil is the way to go. You'll see a 3 part cleaner, brightener and oil kit. It's a great idea but I think diluted oxalic acid works way better. Try this with this scrubber. Scrub (while using gloves) with the oxalic acid and the stainless steel scrubber being careful not to dig into the grain. Rinse it with clean water a couple times and let it dry. This brings the original color out of the teak. Then, just brush on a couple coats of oil. It's way less fiddly than varnish. Just wipe up any mess. You'll need to oil every other month or so to keep that nice warm color but I can literally do my deck hand rails and the companionway hatch in less than 15 minutes. It's very easy.

| Price/Months | Cost | Notes
---|---|----|----
Mineral Oil | $18/48 | $0.37
Sugar Scrub | $3.50/2 | $1.75 | Stock up during sales
AHA Liquid | $40/24 | $1.67 | $23 on Amazon
Tretinoin | $50/8 | $6.25 | Out of pocket
BP Cream | $8/3 | $2.67 | Stock up during sales
CeraVe SA | $15/6 | $2.50 | Stock up during sales
Sunscreen | $12/3 | $4.00 |
Vaseline | $4/forever | ~~~~ | Negligible
| Total: | **$19.21**

This is with perfect application; the real cost is probably significantly lower since I frequently skip steps and/or days.

I have a few other things like Stridex pads, Aztec clay and Pond's cream that I sometimes use, but they're just casualties from previous trial and error, so they're not really part of the routine.

The Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Toner feels like the most frivolous expense, but it works amazingly well and lasts forever since I put it directly on my face using a tiny bottle instead of wasting 3/4 of it into a cotton pad. Also, lesson learned: don't buy anything from Sephora unless you're in there for the service and/or enjoy flushing money down the toilet LOL.

Hopefully once I'm in the military they'll put me on Accutane and then I can be done with most of this nonsense, but until then this routine keeps me radiant and 100% acne free and as long as I have the patience to actually do it...

Hey there!

I bought an IKEA wooden butcherblock to use as a desk, and I looking into finishing it with Beeswax, but I was unsure what to get. There's a lot of DIY beeswax finish on the web, and was looking into that as well, but I'm unsure where to start.

1. How much Beeswax (raw or finished paste) will I realistically need to finish the top of my desk? It's about 6ft in length.
   
2. Are there any issues that anyone has run into that I should be wary about?
   
3. Are there any reasons why I should consider doing it another way?
   
   One of the reasons why I'm considering Beeswax is because I like the color of the table, and according to this page it looks like Beeswax or Beeswax/Carnauba Oil blend doesn't change the color as much.
   
   I've also found this and this which looks like exactly that I need, but I can't imagine that 10oz of wax is going to be enough to cover my entire desk, is it?
   
   Thanks!
   
   Also, if anyone knows of any other subreddits that would be able to help me out please send me their way!

I use mineral oil. This brand, to be specific.

I used to use a water-soluble oil cleanser that I looooved. When I figured out I had/have fungal acne I had to upheave my routine. Mineral oil does not feed/exacerbate the issue. However, it also does not rinse off like my previous cleanser (which was One Love Organics Vitamin B Cleansing Oil). To successfully remove the mineral oil layer I use a hot washcloth every night. It's actually my favorite part of getting ready for bed, now. The feeling is really nice. Afterwards I refresh with a hydrating spritzer and it's wonderful.

Mostly polishing! The pumice is for a more matte finish for varnish, and the rottenstone for a much more glossy finish! Either I mix it with water or a small amount of to produce a thin paste and rub it on! You can get pumice here and rottenstone here
I'd recommend just trying out the pumice first though, since if it doesn't work you won't be stuck with a pound of rottenstone!

Pumice has a bunch of uses, like for soap making, gentle abrasives, or if you spill a bit of oil sprinkle some on and makes clean up a lot easier. Hope it works well for you!

Coconut oil is known to clog pores in a lot of people. Were you double cleansing or just oil cleansing?

The Paula's choice one has vitamin e and coconut oil, both of which can clog pores, it also has a lot of added ingredients.

If you are okay with using one that doesn't emulsify (rinse off with water) then mineral oil or squalane is good. You could use this before a regular milk or foaming cleanser at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Snow-River-32-Ounce-Wood-Oil/dp/B00280MY7M

^mineral oil

If you're familiar with the ordinary, they have cheap squalane. I've never used an already made oil cleanser because my skin is very sensitive but if you search up oil cleansers on this sub, I'm sure there are some recommendations.

You would have to use something like a warm, wet microfiber towel to take the oil off before using your second cleanser if it doesn't rinse off. I use any clean cotton t shirt I don't mind staining. I would only do this in the pm.

Cellulose Sanding Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MCLKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJ15CbCPVFJZW

Mylands High Build Friction Polish, 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pL15Cb2B0EYNS

These are what I use. Ends up shiny like CA but is way easier to do. Sealer first and be generous with it, then polish. Both are done at speed on the lathe, but I like to work it in first then turn on the lathe on larger pieces.

Yeah man. No problem. The sanding sealer is made by Behlen and rub on (not the spray). Couldn't find it on Amazon, a wood yard near my house in Atlanta carries it. Mylands, who makes the friction polish, also makes a sanding sealer.

Here is a link to the polish on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OzlRwbSCRFWM5

Application is super easy. Just use a paper towel (not a rag! In case it snags while turning you want the paper to tear and not your finger). Takes about 20 minutes between sanding sealer coats and then only about 2 minutes between polish coats.

I've only started turning and finishing on the lathe recently so I'm still learning. You have to get the piece super smooth before and during sanding. I'll see things that I think I can just sand out and then it looks fine after sanding and then I finish it shows back up. I also may try lightly sanding between coats of the polish.

I wouldn't sand or use many tools at all. I would clean those cabinets with a standard household cleaner like Simple Green to get the dirt off, then wipe it with mineral spirits on a damp rag to get off more grime, wax, and solids that will break down using mineral spirits, then use a product like Howard's Restore - a - Finish to freshen up the look and color in the chipped spots. It comes in clear and a couple colors. I usually use clear or golden oak, but dark oak may be best for your cabinets.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Restor-Finish-Furniture-Restorer/dp/B00JOREVLE

Thanks for all your advice! I’ve written out all details on the project I can think of with my final proposed design. I want to be extra careful since this uses mains voltage. I think I’ve mitigated my risks but would love your review and thoughts on the final design with the whole picture in mind. I’m also going to create a new post in this sub so feel free to reply there instead.

Project Overview
I’m building an oxalic acid vaporizer to treat my beehives for mite infestations on a semi-annual basis. Oxalic acid comes in a powder form and sublimates at 315F, degrading into unwanted gas products at 372F. 1-2g of acid are applied at a time and must be done so away from the person as fumes are toxic. The vaporizer will be used 1-2 times per year by myself only.
Key Requirements

• Vaporizer must hold 1-2g of acid and run from 315F-360F consistently for 1-3mins
  
• Heating element must be at least 3ft from the body
  
• Vaporizer must run on 120VAC (no car batt available) and plug into a standard GFCI outlet
  
• Must have a physical on/off switch and a light to indicate if the heater is receiving power
  
• Should be low cost (~$50) using easily available retail/free parts
  
• Must be easily portable by 1 person
  
  Design & BoM
  The vaporizer will consist of a heating element with a small copper reservoir on the end of an aluminum broom stick. It will plug into an extension cord and have an inline illuminated switch to turn on/off as well as an in-line thermostat to keep the element in the correct temp range. All elements will be grounded and well secured and insulated to avoid shock. The rough placement and wiring diagram can be seen here and takes after this one. The BoM is below
  
  
• Old aluminum 4ft broomstick to mount everything to
  
• 120v illuminated toggle switch as physical switch and indicator from ebay
  
• In-line disc Thermostat as temp regulator from alliedelec.com
  
• Portable Immersion heater as heating element from BBB
  
• 3/4in copper plug as acid reservoir from Home Depot
  
• Thermal paste for contact between reservoir and thermostat disc from newegg
  
• Shallow 1-gang box as housing for switch and extra wires from Home Depot
  
• All wires will be cut and spliced from an 8ft 3 prong extension chord
  
• Grounds will be fastened to all metal parts and reservoir will be fastened to thermostat using screws and bolts
  
• Wires will be fastened and secured using wire nuts, electrical tape, and zip ties
  
  Risks/Questions
  
  
• The heating element is made to be immersed in liquid and may fail after multiple times reaching high temperatures.
  
• The toggle switch may use an in-line diode for illumination, which would act as a half-wave rectifier for power reaching the heater, thereby significantly reducing the voltage and/or burning out the light.
  
• It may not be possible to securely fasten the reservoir to the thermos disc using off the shelf tools and fasteners. It may require thermal cement.
  
• All connections and pinch/abrasion points must be very secure and well insulated to avoid shock
  
  That’s it. Anything problematic or overlooked? Any better ways you can think of?
  

https://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

I've had great success with this

I also use the Snow River Mineral Oil and I order it off of Amazon. It's perfect for makeup removal and OCM! :)

I've worked with Zebrawood and typically use Teak oil to finish it. It's an incredibly durable finish that's both UV resistant and water resistant. My application is intended for outdoor use though so no one is eating off of the finished product.

That said, I'm not 100% sure if it's a food safe finish and I'd actually err to the side of caution here. Someone else might be able to chime in. I've heard good things about Emmet's as well as pure (or slightly watered down) tung oil.

I have been using Tung oil + citrus solvent Link: http://amzn.com/B00HYHSURM

It brings out the grain in my pine siding (looks a lot like yours) and adds a bit of 'sheen' to the wood. I'm going with a dark click in floor also. Good for keeping the Oregon mud hidden ;)

I use this stuff. I dab a bit onto a dry cloth then gently rub it on the blade/other metal bits on the hilt and grip. After you get a very thin coating (don't let it dry!) wipe it off gently with another dry cloth. Boom, shiny as if it was right out of the box,

Without a pic it's hard to tell but maybe some sort of darker tinged furniture wax might cover up the discoloured patch?

I'm thinking of briwax specifically since it comes in lots of shades and I know it stains and polishes beech well. If you can't find that then I'm sure there's equivalent products.

Good old Johnson's Wax is my favorite.

I got it from a grocery store but i THINK its this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Lemon-Enhancing-Polish-9-7/dp/B0728BTKMD/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3PCG352E3G9VO&keywords=pledge+furniture+polish&qid=1555536510&s=gateway&sprefix=pledge+fur%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-4

It's like $6 for a bottle at your local convenience store, so i think it's worth trying out. By that alone, i think it's worth pledging. The added slipperyness didn't seem much at first, but in gameplay it was noticeable.

> tinted Briwax

What is this tinted Briwax of which you speak? I've found Ebony Briwax but I can't find any product called 'tinted briwax'. Care to point me in the right direction?

Not only is this Lemon pledge good for getting votes, but it also keeps your furniture clean and smelling nice. Now good for floors too.

Cool, thanks! This? http://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

Find yourself a product called Emmet's Good Stuff Wood Finish, can be found here This is some of the best finish for butcher blocks I Have been making blocks for about 8 years made hundreds of them and this is the only thing I use.

Pro tip: Buy Oz Cream Polish. Works great on stainless (and other surfaces).

https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Finishing-Products-Cream-Polish/dp/B0115QA5S4

I concur. New, sharp bit and a router table with shallow passes.

OP, are you using a hardener for the spalt? Thin superglue works as well as a water based stabilizer like Pentacryl.

Scott's Liquid Gold does pretty much the same thing as walnuts (can be found at Lowes and Home Depot). After all, it's the oil in the nut that does the trick.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotts-Liquid-Gold-Pourable-Cleans/dp/B000X9WZMO/ref=pd_sim_201_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000X9WZMO&pd_rd_r=WCWDNM0VKSJ1FTJDJECK&pd_rd_w=skwNL&pd_rd_wg=jCLAW&psc=1&refRID=WCWDNM0VKSJ1FTJDJECK

Is there a better deal that I can get besides this

Or if you don't have like, thousands of dollars to spend cool yet frivolous purchases, you can just get [a tub of oxalic acid](Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PbXkzbD3JRQ6W) for less than $10 on Amazon.

Mix in water and soak the item overnight; rust is gone.

Thanks! I used [these] (http://imgur.com/a7Gmysb) to finish it. I sand through 600, then applied [EEE Ultrashine] (http://amzn.com/B001DT5H7I) follow-ed up with a few coats of [Mylands High Build Friction Polish] (http://amzn.com/B004BL7X4U).

I'm just starting to experiment with the CA glue finish technique, but my results have been mixed.

currently i only have "good stuff" so this one may be for indoors.
Would i be able to add the spar urethane over the top?

Well I might be 10 days late with my answer, but in germany a furniture polish called "Pronto" is used to lubricate.

Seems like it is called "Pledge" in the US.

https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-960336-Furniture-Spray-Fresh-275/dp/B07C5WXTQQ/

​

It's way better than silicon lubricant and it even gets the dust out of your bearings. I'm not sure though, if the american pledge is exactly the same as the european version, so here is a link to german amazon:

https://www.amazon.de/Pronto-Möbelpflege-Spray-Holzflächen-90-iger-Allergenbeseitigung/dp/B006UNCXEM/

​

Using it for about 6 years now, have been using silicon based for about 1-2 years before, no damage on my bearings.

Edit: It's a foam that comes out of this bottle, the size of a pea is enough for each side and rod. Spray it on the rod outside of the table or else you'll get a very slippery table

https://www.amazon.com/Half-32oz/dp/B00HYHSURM

This is what your using on your face?

Pledge Lemon Enhancing Polish 9.7 oz, 3 ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728BTKMD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZA0wCbDVGQ82C

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Peek-33200-Box-Tube/dp/B000TROMR6...here's the stuff I mean