#11 in Screwdrivers & nut drivers
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Reddit mentions of Stanley 69-189 Ratcheting Multi-Bit Screwdriver
Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 11
We found 11 Reddit mentions of Stanley 69-189 Ratcheting Multi-Bit Screwdriver. Here are the top ones.
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- 3 Position ratcheting mechanism enables clockwise, counter clockwise and locked ratcheting positions
- Quick release magnetic bit holder provides for fast and secure bit change capability
- Convenient bit storage
- Bi-material textured handle for higher torque
- Kit includes: 6 chrome vanadium (CRV) bits stored inside the handle for easy access
Features:
Specs:
| Color | Yellow |
| Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
| Length | 1.90157480121 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Size | 1 |
| Weight | 0.3527396192 Pounds |
| Width | 1.70078739984 Inches |
Well, I have a couple ideas:
ESD bracelets are only really used for formalities; most components are pretty resilient to static these days (however, that's not to say you shouldn't keep one around).
Definitely get your hands on a good multimeter and, if you plan to do board work/repair power supplies, an oscilliscope. A small shopvac with crevice attachments is a must.
THIS is something I could never be without.
Order a ton of cables (vga, hdmi, ethernet, extenders, splitters, adapters, etc) from places like Monoprice. Doing things like throwing in a free HDMI cable with a new graphics card installation every now and then is something that'll put you well above the likes of someplace like the Geek Squad.
One last note: Don't forget software tools. Hiren's Boot CD makes repairs a snap.
If it gets too quiet, the kids are up to something.
[Item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18RE9XEW400UU&coliid=IDH62GUCGYKJU)
I have one of those, the 2x4 version though, and it came with a nut driver.
I'm not sure the size of the nut but if you lose the driver it comes with or yours doesn't come with one for some reason you can buy sets of bits like this for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2938-Quick-Change-Detents-14-Piece/dp/B007BLZ7TK
Of course you'll also then need a bit driver like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1451685487&sr=1-2&keywords=ratcheting+screwdriver
Is this what I'm looking for? Like does it have the same functions of the one that Linus uses? Like u can turn the nozzle of the screwdriver or turn the whole thing, makes that ratcheting noise Etc...
I have this and the ratcheting version for work. The only difference is that the one in the video actually locks the bits in. Amazing screwdrivers and they're worth the premium price.
For a way cheaper option I found a Stanley driver, or this one.
I know this isn't what you're asking, but I have a similar item that I use for everything The previous version of this screwdriver has lasted me for 14 years now and the only thing I've changed are the bits. I've gotten quick enough with it that it's almost like a cordless battery powered screwdriver in speed.
balaclava
neck scarf thing
decent earplugs
decent earbuds
ram mount
(worth it)
ratcheting screwdriver
hex bit set for their screwdriver
compact air compressor that runs off a battery tender quick disconnect
key tags
clothes
etc
Sorry for not replying directly. I was asleep, just woke up out of nowhere and saw your message. So quickly replying before I head back to bed. 2:38 AM here! xD
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> I noticed that those are all static pressure fans. Wouldn't I want to get AF fans for the top and rear of the case?
Correct, however I did forgot to mention "why" I picked those thermaltake fans.
I said that I "mostly" did it for the looks. The thermaltake fans are indeed SP fans, which means they work best on a radiator or cooler.
So why the heck do I still suggest to use 1 for the case?
Because airflow speed is really not extremely important anymore these days, because both the CPU & GPUs don't run extremely hot anymore.
This is why most fans can run at near silent levels (or if you have good fans & case, you won't hear them at all) because they simply don't need to run that fast or move a lot of air to keep the temperatures in check.
Only when the CPU & GPU need to work hard (when you game) the case fans need to spin a bit faster to "move" more air. The air movement is really important. Fresh or cool air needs to enter the case while the hot air that the CPU & GPU "expose" needs to be pushed out. This happens naturally by increasing fan speeds. The higher the CFM the more air they move, yes.
So why did I suggest such low CFM fans? Because even that low number, is enough to keep your card it's temperatures cool enough.
While a higher CFM would likely be able to lower the temperature of the card by about.. 2C, you're trading silence or cost or looks of the fan for it. Which I did not find worth it, which is why I suggested this fan.
Here is a good video about case fans and how many you need?
And here is an other great video that looks at my exact point as well. That case fan CFM or whatever, doesn't really make a huge difference in temperatures..
This video is hilarious.. It also shows you why case fans aren't super duper important anymore in terms of temperatures. As long as there is "some air" moving, the temperature won't change much.
The cooling performance is highly affected by the actually coolers on the GPU & CPU themselves!
> I think I'll hold off on buying the fans for the radiator since the Enermax ones seem to be good fans that also seem to push a little more air than the Thermaltake ones. I don't think color will matter there because they'll be hidden anyway.
The performance will roughly be the same, but the fans will just look cooler! You could technically place the fans like this. Both directions would work, push or pull. Meaning the way the air flows through the radiator. Temperature wise it won't hugely affect it, but when you place them in push (which is the way it is, in that picture) the temperature of the CPU will be a bit higher, while the GPU will be a bit lower.
When you set them in pull, the CPU will be slightly cooler and the GPU a bit higher.
In terms of the light, it's true that they're pretty much hidden, but the LED strips will provide the color pretty well if you place them the way I said above. Which will make them light up the other parts of your system pretty nicely. I mean, it's absolutely not required to buy for sure, I mean.. in terms of performance, it makes very little difference at all.
Which is again, why I said that I mostly did it "for the looks".
> For the cables, I think I'd rather get a basic kit than an extension kit and have to worry about cable management. Let me know if you know anywhere else to buy a basic kit in that red or white color.
I actually only know that you can buy them from EVGA, but those are pretty expensive and really, for the couple of cables that actually will be visible, it's probably not worth it.
In terms of extensions, I personally use them and.. my case got pretty much NO room for cable management, but I still managed somehow.. yes my side panel has a bit of a bulge, but fuck it my front looks awesome!
> I will also buy that wireless adapter. In the near future I will also be updating my modem/router.
Good news, a router is really not that expensive anymore! You can buy them extremely cheap, but I do recommend to spend a decent amount for at least something that is "good enough".
Amazon Reviews (4093): ★★★★☆
Amazon Reviews (223): ★★★★☆
I am certain that both of these 2 routers would likely fix a lot of your troubles. They're also very easy to setup and you can kick your IPS in the butt for providing you with such garbage.
> I don't intend to spend a bunch of money on it either, as I'm the only one using it besides maybe my phone or my girlfriend's phone. So I don't need one that has tons of features to split the internet between people.
I highly recommend you to download the free app "WiFi Analyser". This app will very likely surprise you, but the network that you're using (you need to know the name of your WiFi), is very likely overlapping with other networks around the house from neighbours or other devices that send data, such as.. radios, TVs, washing machines, some fridges, microphones, etc. There are a lot more things in your home than you might expect that could potentially send out data and thus interfering with the connect of your device with the router.
This is why the 5GHz network will very likely solve this issue, right away. Because the 5GHz network (compared to the standard 2.4GHz) is not used very widely.. yet. Thus the chance of other devices interfering with the connection is very slim. Which makes the connection much stronger.
> I will also buy an anti-static wristband for assembly.
Good idea, those are cheap anyway. If you don't know how to "connect" them. You have to connect them to a point that is earthed to the ground for the best result.
How I generally do it, is by connecting a PSU cable into the wall socket directly, that I know is earthed. Us Europeans use an other socket, we have that pin sticking out which is our earth pin.
Then I plug the cable into the PSU and keep the PSU turned off, by doing this.. the PSU is now connected by earth and the "housing" is also earthed. Thus I can clip the anti-static wrist band to the PSU and be earthed as well.
> Anything else I may be forgetting? I believe the enermax cooler comes with thermal paste already so I think I'm all set to go!
Nope, perhaps a screwdriver (preferably magnetic!).
Don't worry about "magnets" for PC, the magnets inside screwdrivers are nowhere near strong enough to harm PC parts, not even a HDD. I've been using a magnetic screwdriver for my whole life when building PCs. Haven't had anything die yet by using it.
Of course, the stronger the magnet, the bigger the chance, but I don't think a screwdriver can kill it. I have some extremely strong screwdrivers (for work).. I could test it! I have a few HDDs that I don't care about anymore if they die!
Happy building and please, test the system before you build it inside your case!
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Watch and follow the build guide video carefully and you should have no problem at all!
okay how about this screwdriver?
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
it might be just a tad big for my hand but the release mechanism... it's not pop out is it? that black ring is the slide back 'n forth release kind is it not?
I've had the stanley fatmax racheting screwdriver for years now and it works great. I replaced the bits that came with it with higher carbon bits (much better since they don't dull as quickly). If there's one minor annoyance it's that the mechanism for switching directions is near the shaft of the screw driver, so every once in a while i'll accidentally turn it. But all in all, it's pretty minor, and I really like this screwdriver.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457891231&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+ratcheting+screwdriver