#2 in Construction protractors
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Reddit mentions of Starrett ProSite Miter Saw Protractor
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 6
We found 6 Reddit mentions of Starrett ProSite Miter Saw Protractor. Here are the top ones.
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This easy to use tool has two scalesIt couldn't be easier, read the protractor, set your miter saw, cut, perfect fit!The 7" model has narrow legs, making it easier to use in compact spaces.
Specs:
Color | ํํYellow & White |
Height | 0.85 Inches |
Length | 5.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 7" Length |
Weight | 0.25 Pounds |
Width | 9.45 Inches |
True.
Though on obtuse inside angles I miter them and preassemble (if it's not a really long length) instead of coping. Use a gauge like this
Coping allows for faster installation because it can compensate for about 3 degrees of difference and still be tight as well there's only one cut to get accurate instead of two, whereas miters take two accurate cuts.
The back cut on the cope of an obtuse cope can get very extreme and really hard to do well.
I had the Wixey digital angle meter that didn't last two months. Figured it'd be more versatile than the digital angle gauge.
Ended up buying a Starrett miter saw protractor - has the added bonus of splitting angles for inside and outside miter cuts for me: https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518025692&sr=8-1&keywords=starrett+angle
Starett miter protractor, if he does finish work: Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y2kXBb0GR5ZSV
Bosch laser measure is a good option and there are several versions under $100.
You're right, there are even "angle finders" that will automatically divide the angle for you.
Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_J3r-zbR08SVMS
If you do miter the corners, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S
It helps find the real angle of the corner and directly translates it into miter saw setting.
I feel you pain, because I'm in the middle of doing this in my home. After some experimentation, I'm replacing. It just wasn't worth the effort, even though all my trim is red oak.
Back to your situation...
With a newly finished floor, you don't want to use any chemical stripper or heat near the new work and risk damaging it. That leaves mechanical stripping.
Sanding will take forever as latex will gum up the pads. Then you're replacing the pads often and may still damage the floor. Using a scraper will get the paint off, but still leaves additional sanding and refinishing to be done.
If you like the style of the base, it looks like 4 1/2" clam, that's pretty common and fairly inexpensive. Personally, I'd replace with something little better, maybe colonial base, or if your home is older, a three-piece base (cap, base, show) stained to match the floor.
To install molding, you need a miter saw, coping saw, nailer or hand nail it, and one of these for the outside corners, and knowledge on how to cope an inside corner..