#120 in Wall painting supplies
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Reddit mentions of Watco 63041 Lacquer Clear Wood Finish, Quart, Clear Gloss
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2
We found 2 Reddit mentions of Watco 63041 Lacquer Clear Wood Finish, Quart, Clear Gloss. Here are the top ones.
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- Ideal for use on furniture, doors, cabinets and paneling; not recommended for floors or exterior surfaces
- Formulated for a higher clarity finish than polyurethane
- Dries to the touch in 1 hour and covers up to 290 sq ft
- Eliminates the need for wood filler and protects against scratches; no need to sand between coats
- Dries to a crystal-clear gloss with a lasting durable finish
- Apply to furniture, doors, cabinets and paneling
- Dries in 30 minutes and does not require sanding between coats
- Dries crystal-clear
- Durable wood finish and seal
- Fast-drying
Features:
Specs:
| Color | Clear Gloss |
| Height | 4.9 Inches |
| Length | 4.15 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Size | Quart |
| Weight | 2.19 Pounds |
| Width | 4.15 Inches |
For me, that would be dependent on several factors - I would block sand the headstock with about 220 grit, with the grain, until it's as smooth and blemish free as possible...
Then I would double check to make sure that the tuning keys have enough threads to tighten down properly without the thickness of the missing veneer. If they do, you're good to proceed, otherwise, you probably want to find a veneer, shape and glue it up and proceed with finishing. (you also would have the option of reaming out the holes and using a bushing, but that would weaken the headstock just a bit).
If you want a fairly exact match on the color, Stew-Mac has ColorTone Liquid Stains that can be mixed with lacquer (or polyurethane, if that's your choice, I'd personally go with lacquer as it's easiest to work with and polishes out better) - you can tint the clear finish (don't tint the whole can, you'll also want some clear to apply on top), and just brush on subsequent coats until the color is deep enough to match. a few (few in my world means about 10, but I'm extremely particular) coats of clear on top, block sand with 2000 grit paper, and hand polish and you're good to go.
Another option would be to stain the wood directly, but you may have a harder time getting the color to match. If you test on a scrap of similar wood, though, you can get it pretty honking close and the use the tinted clear to tweak it. That might be faster (stain first, then clear).
Whatever finish you decide to go with, be sure to pay careful attention to the wait time between coats and the recoat window. Layers have to thoroughly outgas between coats so that you don't trap solvents between layers - that's how you get bubbles of cloudy (blushed) clearcoats.
Refrain from casing it up as long as you can - let the finish air dry as long as you can stand it. OH, and you probably also want to wait at least a week after your last coat of clear before you crank down on the tuning key nuts to make sure that the finish has fully hardened - otherwise you'll get squishy little craters in the finish because it's still a little soft. Those things don't have to be torqued down like a car engine mounting bolt either, just hand snug is fine. It's your guitar, you can always revisit that in a couple of months anyway.
Best of luck with your project - we want pics when it's done!
I personally love lacquer for finish watco brushing lacquer is my go to. It lays down nice with a good brush and it dries fast way faster than poly and hold up almost as well. It doesn’t have the water resiliency as poly. One tip I after final coat rub the surface with a brown paper bag take out the dust nibs without dulling the finish.