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This isn't easy or simple, but it is possible. You will need a separate microphone of some kind.

Get one of these:

https://en-us.sennheiser.com/pcv-05

This separates the audio from an Xbox One controller into separate microphone and headphone plugs.

If your controller is an Elite, you can plug this directly into the controller.

If not, you'll need an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Afterglow-LVL-Headset-Adapter/dp/B017VLXJ7G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VKQJ85AC83ZD52576QFZ

Now run 1/8" stereo cables from the headphone and microphone leads of the Sennheiser adapter and either plug them into the inputs on your PC, if they are available. If not, you can add more inputs by adding a USB audio adapter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS

In the Xbox, enable your headset and send party and game chat to the headset only. (You can also use speakers, but then you'll only be able to control the chat audio levels in the Xbox, not in OBS.)

If you're not already using it, get VoiceMeeter Banana and set it up according to its manual:

http://vb-audio.pagesperso-orange.fr/Voicemeeter/banana.htm

Voicemeeter provides for three hardware inputs, three hardware outputs, and three audio buses. It creates a virtual device to be used as the default Windows audio output. Check the quick start section of the manual.

Then what you want is to set your Let's Play microphone as hardware input 1, and your Xbox headset as hardware input 2 (either the mic input of your PC or your USB adapter).

Hardware output 1 should be the headphones you use while playing (not the Xbox headset, we're not even going to use it!) and hardware output 2 should be either your PC's headphone port or the USB audio adapter, depending on which you are using.

Now what you want to do is enable the appropriate busses for hardware inputs so they get output to the proper places. That's what the buttons labeled A1, A2, A3, B1 and B2 are for.

You want to make sure that the hardware input for your microphone and the hardware output for your xbox adapter are on the same bus, and that this is a separate bus from the one where the hardware input from your Xbox adapter is on the same bus as the hardware OUTput for your headphones.

This means that you can hear your buddies on Xbox chat, and they can hear you through the microphone you are using to record in OBS.

When you are done, you should ideally have 3 audio inputs in your OBS setup: your microphone, your xbox headset input, and your game audio (from whatever your usual capture method is). You should be able to control volume levels on all three separately, as well as enable or disable them as you wish.

For a more complete guide on the portion of this where you set up OBS and VoiceMeeter Banana, look here:

https://obsproject.com/forum/resources/voicemeeter-banana-audio-management-for-1-and-2-pc-streaming-setups.397/

To save yourself a lot of time I recommend throwing money at this if you want to stream from your laptop successfully.

http://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Portable-Capture-Xbox360-60Mbps/dp/B00B2IZ3B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407285581&sr=8-1&keywords=live+gamer+portable

I bought one last year when it was on sale and its great.

Good luck!

If you're getting another platter drive, just about any 7200rpm drive will do. The Western Digital WD10EZEX is cheap, reliable, and benchmarks at around 160MB/s. That would be fine for recording 1080p 60fps.

If you're getting SSDs for your OS/games disk, I've used both the Samsung 850 EVO and the ADATA Premier with great results. Both of those systems have 2 SSDs in RAID 0, for double the read/write speeds. That's not necessary, but it is cool to have over 1GB/s in read/write.

Either option should help with the hard drive bottleneck. I haven't checked benchmarks for your 4590, but that's a relatively new chip. You could always add more RAM, but only if you deem that you need it. H264 likes to eat memory. That will improve your encoding times if you're editing your footage in Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas. I think you should be fine after recording to a separate drive though. If you're still having issues, it may be aggressive/overly demanding settings in OBS.

Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.

Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1

Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.

Hopefully I am not too late but I am having the same issues you are. though my PC is not as powerful as yours. i'm reading through the replies and they seem specific to your machine. If anyone can recommend the optimal settings for my PC i would greatly appreciate it. I don't know if it is worth noting but I will be using a capture card as well.

My log File

High lumen LED light bulbs like these, or building your own key light with LED strips is the way to go.

They all run extremely cool. When using bulbs, you'll want something like a positional desk lamp so you can spotlight areas that might have shadows and blast them out of existence.

That's the super budget way to go.

Almost sounds like you don't need to "stream" but you need to employ video capture. If you take a HDMI out from laptop A, plug it into a capture device, then hook it into laptop B, you will get near real time results. You will want to set Laptop A's dual monitor mode as 'duplicate' rather than 'extended.' You might still have to run OBS but it would be on Laptop B and not Laptop A.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Cam-Link-Broadcast-Camcorder/dp/B07QKLFL74/ref=sr_1_4?crid=DIR5ELT8F5D4&keywords=cam+link&qid=1574009799&s=electronics&sprefix=cam+link%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-4

There is one service that offers low latency streaming, but it is expensive. It's around $55 a month and you max out at 2k bitrate. I setup an art education website that runs live art lessons and needed a way for students to talk to the teacher in real time, so I use this: https://www.wowza.com/pricing/streaming-cloud-plans/ultra-low-latency - it works great, but it doesn't sound like it's the right solution.

It was hard for me to find something decent in that range, but I use the Pluggable Nix Capture device for $100 which is a great value.

link to Amazon

Honestly I think the more reliable, best looking option would be to get a couple of cheap Logitech 270s along with the macbook cam as the primary.

Two of these are cheaper than the $44 manycam license:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Widescreen-designed-Calling-Recording/dp/B004FHO5Y6/

And you could probably resell/return one or both of them when you're done and get some of the money back.

You may want to get other opinions though, since I'm not super familiar with Macs and using multiple cams like this.

I appreciate all of your help. But surely this is closer? HP Pavilion 17-ar050wm Laptop 17.3" FHD IPS anti-glare WLED-backlit (1920 x 1080) AMD Quad-Core A10-9620P 8GB RAM 1TB HDD DVD-Writer Windows 10 Home 64 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DL9LQ79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uxNhDbSTX5AMY

Edit: for anyone who comes across this save yourself some headache. Find one component that will do everything that you want. because there are a lot of limitations with Asio4all and you might not be able to get sound.

I still have not found a solution to this.

Trying to get a Behringer 404 HD to talk with a creative sound card and AB/virtual cable using Asio4all within FL Studio I was unsuccessful in getting any sound to pass through to the card.

You can use FL Asio or Asio driver that comes with the card if it has one. But you will not be able to Output to a different Source or have a different source of input.

If anyone has had any luck actually getting this to work please message me and let me know your settings.


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DAC was what i have been looking for.

After digging a bit deeper I'm may very well stick with the PCI just because I'm running out of USB ports.

Any recommendations internal or external?

I could just buy the 50$ card but i like how much this one puts out compared to others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073HT4GM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522443903&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sound+blaster&dpPl=1&dpID=31PrI84vKLL&ref=plSrch

So far I have not encountered any issue as far as noise or interference from other components.

You have to get yourself a capture card.

The setup will pretty much be this : Gaming PC > Capture card > Recording/streaming PC. There are 2 main types of capture card; PCIe and external.

Elgato and AVerMedia are 2 companies that make them although I am sure there are others as well.

Awesome, think this should do the trick? The CPU has quicksync support.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7PZ92D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you need some good lighting is all. make sure its even lighting, https://www.amazon.com/ePhotoInc-Photography-Lighting-Softboxes-Flourescent/dp/B00WREVO5M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1487595681&sr=8-6&keywords=green+screen+lighting something like this will help a lot.

Yes, just get a small switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/

(you don't need 8 ports, 4-5 will do, but this was cheaper than the 5 port one...)

Plug a cable from your modem into any one port, plug PC into another, PS4 into a third.

In general, for all networked devices, ethernet is far better than wifi. I wire everything that has the option to be wired. Especially video.

Besides the splitter cable, another solution is to use the optical output on the back of the console. You'd have to get some equipment to convert the SPDIF to RCA/3.5mm headphone (example) and input it back to your computer/elgato. But you're also not tied down this way.

e: I found a good overview video by Elgato here. Also Elgato has a video covering the Chat Link product here.

e2: The slim ps4 dropped the optical output so this method wouldn't work if you have a slim.

But with a laptop I couldn't check my stream or other programs, right?

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I was thinking about something like that as a 2nd monitor...

https://www.amazon.com/ETEPON-Raspberry-Screen-Monitor-Display/product-reviews/B07PH8C5HN/ref=cm_cr_getr_d_paging_btm_next_3?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=3