Reddit mentions of EPBOWPT AC 100-240V to DC 12V 6A Power Supply, 12V 72W Switching Power Converter Adapter for LED Strip Lights, Security Camera, LCD TVs, with 5.5mm X 2.1mm DC Female Barrel Connector

It's an induction heater. Everything is available on Amazon. It's very easy.

(For anyone else interested) Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:

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https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg

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**Update/Parts List**

Box/Enclosure

Induction heater board w/coil

Glass tube

(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)

Mosfet

Power supply

Red toggle switch

Momentary switch

DC panel-mount jack

Insulated crimp connectors

I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.

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Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.

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Total: ~$65 USD

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TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!

It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper


https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op


Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)

It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.

Edit: blasting:

I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

I don’t have WiFi so I’m not going to google search, but I’d be willing to bet google or amazon would have the car plug adapter for mobile ih.
As far as 18650, all I know is it can be done, and without TOO much effort.
With the box I’ve made, I’m going to add a bottom compartment that can be latched on to the bottom, and hold 4 18650’s which should be tons of use.

My best recommendation is YouTube, google, amazon/eBay for parts and going to the forum f***combustion , google search that forum, they have a huge thread on induction diy, as well as vapcap stuff, and there is a user there named pipes, he will sell you ready to go fully built portable and tabletop setups that are legit and very reasonably priced. Building my own I saved maybe 40 bucks, however his are better than what I’m able to cobble together, and for a true portable I’ll be going to him for his Portside mini as it’s the best.
Good luck my guy, I’m in the same boat.

Just order an induction driver with coil, a psu, and a switch of some sort.

SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage Switching ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Module + Coil Power Supply heating power supply module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rWzBCb6KE502R

Out of stock but that’s what I got, there are other sellers it’s all the same unit.

EPBOWPT AC 100-240V to DC 12V 6A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNW1CNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This psu works just fine for me, AND it comes with the adapter you will NEED to plug this all into the wall
ESUPPORT Heavy Duty 20A 125V 15A...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWWZ0GK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This switch is for cars, and rated at 20a.
It’s overkill, but my understanding is a higher amp rated switch removes the need for a mofset which I didn’t wana really wore up. You can also use a momentary switch, so it’s only on if you press it down, but the spring keeps it set at “off” but they aren’t rated at 20a and you will need a mofset.

I just got a wood box and used my drill stuff to make the holes, and hot glue to seal the box so I can open it op fairly easily for repairs and upgrades