Reddit mentions of Lutron RMJ-5T-DV-B 120-277V Pow Pak Wireless Dimming Module Ballast

I had no idea that exists, but holy crap that is awesome! I don't do much 0-10 volt but it's always kind of sloppy and I wondered if there was a better method. I love these Lutron wireless 0-10 volt things for retrofitting an office when there is no low voltage or we need to add an extra switch leg and dimming: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PowPak-RMJ-5T-DV-B-Wireless-Fluorescent/dp/B00JV3F0B6

I'm not too familiar with 0-10v systems so I read up a bit. It appears that you do need a low voltage traveler wire to feed all the way to the switch. I don't believe the one I linked will work as your fixtures are still designed to work on 120vAC and that PWM dimmer is low voltage DC only.

Is this in your home or a garage i.e. - does it need to be aesthetically pleasing? My shop lights are simply plugged in to a standard two outlet receptacle. You could cut in a 4 outlet receptacle and wire one of the dimmer switches next to the main outlet at the beginning of the circuit. The switch on the wall would then control the power going to that switch, but you'd be able to set the level of brightness and then not touch it.

Another option (and I don't know if this is feasible or even code compliant) is to use the neutral wire as the control wire. The specs on that Lutron state that no neutral wire is required for operation. Just so long as you labeled it properly (similar to how the neutral can be used as load in certain situations) I don't see why you couldn't run it from your lights to the switch as the 10v control wire. I only know enough about this to be dangerous though so I'm sure someone will downvote or correct as necessary. Please don't do this without confirmation from the manufacturer/electrician.

Edit: I think this controller from Lutron might be just the ticket. Per the manual you can control it with any number of their Pico switches and it does all of the dimming wirelessly via RF. You can also connect it to a wall switch, a handheld switch, etc., and even control it via the Amazon Echo if you want. Just did a little extra reading though and apparently you need their hub to control the wireless connection. Once you have that, though, you can add any number of switches (I think to an extent) to any number of circuits and even integrate your lights with Smartthings, Vera, HomeSeer, or one of the supported automation hubs. Granted, you're looking at $100 for the hub/switch starter kit and another $80 for the 0-10v, but your'e also eliminating the hassle of wiring (aside from wiring the control wire from the ballast to the Lutron controller) and setting yourself up for automation, if that's something you're into. We have our under cabinet lights and a couple other things hooked to a SmartThings hub and the Echo and it's pretty convenient.