Reddit mentions: The best electrical switches
We found 3,450 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical switches. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 728 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730
- ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus)
- Requires a Z-Wave certified gateway. Compatible with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Wink, ADT Pulse, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera, Connect and Iris. Works with Alexa for voice control (hub required; Alexa device and hub sold separately)
- Wirelessly control lights on and off, schedule a timed event or create a custom scene from anywhere in the world, at any time of the day
- Easily replace any standard in-wall switch with the GE Z-Wave smart fan control to turn on/off or adjust speed levels with your mobile device or computer using any Z-Wave certified gateway
- Requires in-wall installation with hard-wired connections - Neutral wire REQUIRED. Includes white and light almond paddles (wall plate not included)
Features:
Specs:
Color | 4.25 |
Height | 4.25 Inches |
Length | 1.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.65 Pounds |
Width | 2.25 Inches |
2. GE 14291 Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, SmartThings, Zwave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, 3-Way Ready 1st Gen, White & Light Almond
Specs:
Color | White & Light Almond |
Height | 4.1 Inches |
Length | 1.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Switch |
Weight | 0.08 Pounds |
Width | 2.2 Inches |
3. JAS12724 - GE 12724 Z-Wave(R) in-Wall CFL-LED Dimmer Switch
Works with Alexa for voice control (hub required, Alexa device and hub sold separately).ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to...
Specs:
Color | silver |
Height | 8.21 Inches |
Length | 2.37 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 3-inch x 3.54-inch x 5.5-inch |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 7.27 Inches |
4. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Dimmer, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, 3-Way Compatible, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White & Light Almond, 14294
- VOICE CONTROL – ALEXA & GOOGLE ASSISTANT COMPATIBLE (requires a Z-Wave certified hub). Works with the following Z-Wave certified hubs: SmartThings, Ring Alarm, Wink, ADT Pulse, ADT Command, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera and more.
- VERSATILE DIMMING OPTIONS – Easily replace any standard in-wall switch equipped with a neutral wire to remotely turn ON/OFF, adjust lighting brightness and create schedules for a wide range of fixtures. The dimmer adjusts brightness levels of dimmable LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen lights from 0-100 percent to reduce energy costs and improve bulb life. Control the device remotely with your smartphone and voice commands when connected to a compatible hub or enjoy manual ON/OFF operation from the dimmer. Home automation is simple through custom scenes, versatile scheduling and convenient alerts.
- 3-WAY READY – The smart device operates perfectly on its own or seamlessly integrates into multi-switch setups with required add-on switches – models 12723 or 46199. Up to four add-on switches can be connected to the same device.
- FULL-HOME COVERAGE – Z-Wave Plus works with all previous Z-Wave generations to allow continued expansion of your home-automation network. The dimmer is capable of controlling indoor or outdoor fixtures for whole-home automation and repeats your Z-Wave signal from your hub or other devices to extend your range by up to 150ft. Extended signal range increases your home automation coverage to enhance your control.
- EASY INSTALLATION – Requires indoor in-wall installation with hardwired connections. NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED. Includes white and light almond paddles (wall plate not included). Full-range dimmability for use with dimmable LEDs and CFLs as well as incandescent and halogen bulbs. Supported wattage – 600W incandescent, 150W CFL/LED. Supported voltage – 120VAC. Operating temperature range 32-104 degrees Fahrenheit.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White & Light Almond |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 1.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 1.85 Inches |
5. BN-LINK 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer, FD60 U6, 115V, 60Hz, Dual Outlet, Indoor, Packaging May Vary for Lamp Light Fan Security UL Listed
- ✓ VERSATILE & CUSTOMIZABLE: Easily set up to 8 on/off programs for the timer’s two grounded outlets. Outlets are controlled simultaneously, and settings can be as short as one minute.
- ✓ JUST SET & GO: Choose your own individual days or simply select one of the convenient pre-set combination days. Switch to Daylight Savings mode with a press of a button. Our long-lasting backup battery keeps your settings even in the event of a power outage.
- ✓ PROTECT YOUR HOME: Activate the “Random” Vacation mode to randomize your programmed lights. Make your home look “lived in” even when you’re away.
- ✓ SAVE ENERGY & MONEY: Save costs on electricity. Use for lights, coffee machines, fans, and much more!
- ✓ SAFE & RELIABLE: This timer is UL listed and rigorously controlled for quality and safety. Rating: 115V, 60 Hz, 15A/1725W
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 3.2 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 3.1 Inches |
6. Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch and Remote Kit for Wall & Ceiling Lights, P-PKG1W-WH, White
Works with Alexa to support dimming through voice control (Smart Bridge required, Alexa device and Smart Bridge sold separately)Replaces an existing switch and installs in 3 steps in as little as 15 minutes; ideal dimmer for all homes, as it does not require a neutral wireCan control up to 17 bulbs ...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 6.75 inches |
Length | 2 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 5.94 inches |
7. Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz WiFi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack (HS200), White
- Easy guided install: Neutral wire is required, standard wall plate size. No need to understand complex switch wiring or master vs auxiliary switch configurations; The Kasa app guides you through easy step by step installation. Need 2.4GHz Wi-Fi connection
- Control from anywhere: Monitor your light status. Turn electronics on and off from anywhere with your smartphone using the Kasa app, whether you are at home, in the office or on vacation
- Voice control: Enjoy the hands-free convenience of controlling the lights in your home with your voice via Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant; perfect for times when your hands are full or entering a dark room
- Scheduling: Use timer or countdown schedules to set your smart switch to automatically turn on and off while you're home or away. Enable ‘away mode’ to randomly switch on and off to trick potential intruders
- Trusted and reliable: Designed and developed in silicon valley, Kasa is trusted by over 4 million users. UL certified for safety use.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | June 2016 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.3 pounds |
Width | 3.3 Inches |
8. Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch and Remote (Requires Hue Hub, Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs)
- TAKE CONTROL: The Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch allows you to control your Philips Hue smart lights from the comfort of your couch or bed. The battery-powered Wireless Hue Dimmer Switch with Remote smoothly adjusts the intensity and color of your Philips Hue smart bulbs, and switches them on and off.
- SCHEDULE YOUR OWN CUSTOM LIGHTING SCENES: When using your Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Philips Hue Smart Bulbs, you can use the on-button to switch between 4 light recipes without the Philips Hue app, or use the Philips Hue app to configure your 4 favorite scenes hue ecosystem. This is the perfect way to personalize your smart home.
- LIMITLESS POSSIBILITIES: Control up to 50 lights using the Philips Hue hub, or use the Dimmer switch without the Philips Hue Hub to control up to 10 smart lights. The Philips Hue Dimmer switch doesn't require an internet connection to work.
- MAXIMUM FLEXIBILIITY: Mount the Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch anywhere with the included screws or adhesive tape, the removable remote for ease of use. No re-wiring required.
- EASY INSTALLATION: Install your Philips Hue device in a minute. Simply follow the instructions in the Philips Hue app. Our default settings give you immediate control over your smart lights. Customize the smart lighting scene settings in the app to fit your needs.
- SMART HOME DEVICE COMPATIBILITY: When you use the Philips Hue Dimmer switch with a Philips Hue hub, the dimmer switch can be used to control any Alexa smart home device or a HomeKit compatible appliance via the Apple Smart Home app.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.19 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
9. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White
- PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home; Enable smart away to randomly turn your lights on/off to look like you’re home even if you’re away (smart bridge, L-BDG2-WH, required)
- MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Ring, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand (smart bridge required)
- CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control a variety of ways – via the free Lutron app, your voice or from the wall; Schedule lights to change at set times or activate scenes with the touch of a button (bridge required)
- GET MORE, SPEND LESS: 1 Caseta smart switch can control many bulbs at once; Make many bulbs smart, even your existing bulbs. Get smart control of multiple styles of dimmable LED, incandescent, and halogen bulbs
- WORKS IN ANY HOME: Unlike other smart dimmer switches, Caseta works in any home, of any age, as it does not require a neutral wire
- WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL: For added convenience, use with wireless Pico remote (PJ2-3BRL-GXX-L01) to turn your lights on, off, or dim and brighten with the touch of a button from anywhere in the home
- EASY 3-WAY SETUP: Create a 3-way by mounting Pico to almost any wall surface - no cutting holes or pulling wire, with a wall mount bracket (PICO-WBX-ADAPT sold separately). Replace existing 3-way switches by mounting the bracket and Pico over the backbox
- TECHNICAL DETAILS: Works with up to 150W dimmable LED light bulbs/CFL light bulbs or 600W incandescent bulbs/halogen bulbs; not rated for low voltage applications (i.e. track or landscape lighting)
- INCLUDES: (1) Caseta dimmer switch; coordinating wallplate sold separately
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 5.5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 3.38 Inches |
10. GE Enbrighten Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave/GE Zigbee Smart Lighting Controls, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, White & Light Almond, 12723
- WHY AN ADD-ON SWITCH – Add-on switches allow GE-branded in-wall smart controls to operate correctly in multi-switch configurations. By connecting directly to the smart device, the add-on mirrors its functions. This feature allows you to dim lights, adjust fan speeds, turn fixtures ON/OFF and more based on the capabilities of the primary smart device. While the add-on switch is not a stand-alone device, it provides continued use of your favorite smart-device functions from multiple locations.
- ULTIMATE FLEXIBILITY – Compatible with any GE-branded smart control to operate lights or devices from multiple locations. The add-on switch sends commands to the connected in-wall Z-Wave or Zigbee switch, dimmer or fan control for full use of home automation features in 3-way configurations. For easy installation, the add-on switch only requires neutral, traveler and ground wires. It cannot be used as a standalone switch.
- MULTI-SWITCH OPERATION – Easily replace any in-wall control in a multi-switch configuration to support the features of the primary smart device to which it is connected. Up to four add-on switches can be added to a smart switch or dimmer to operate fixtures from as many as five locations.
- COMPATIBLE DEVICES – The add-on switch mirrors the functions of the primary smart device. It offers ON/OFF control when paired with a switch, dims when connected to a dimmer, adjusts speed when used with a fan control and many other home-automation commands.
- EASY INSTALLATION – Requires indoor in-wall installation with hardwired connections. NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED. Includes white and light almond paddles (wallplate not included). Works with LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen bulbs as well as other fixtures based on the primary device functionality.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White & Light Almond |
Height | 4.25 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Add-On Switch |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 2.25 Inches |
11. BN-LINK BND-60/U47 Indoor Mini 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3-Prong, 2-Pack
- ✓ SIMPLE TO USE: Pins UP means timer is OFF. Pins DOWN means timer is ON. Please note that your timer’s pins will come pressed DOWN new of the box. Pull the pins UP to begin setting your timer
- ✓ AUTOMATE YOUR HOME OR OFFICE: Turn on and off lamps, small appliances, Christmas trees, and other electrical devices with a handy timer
- ✓ DESIGN YOUR OWN SCHEDULE: With up to 24 on and off settings per day, you can program your devices to turn on/off in as small as 30-minute intervals. Settings will repeat daily once programmed and plugged-in
- ✓ CONVENIENT AND COMPATIBLE: Each package includes 2 mini timers that can be used in 2 locations.This timer is compatible with compact fluorescent lighting, LED bulbs, and most small appliances
- ✓ RATINGS: 125-Volt, 60 Hz./15-Amp, 1875-Watt resistive/8-Amp, 1000-Watt tungsten/5 Amp ballast
Features:
Specs:
Color | Mechanical 3 Prong |
Height | 1.2598425184 Inches |
Length | 2.4803149581 Inches |
Number of items | 2 |
Size | 2 Pack |
Width | 1.3779527545 Inches |
12. Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module
High output power 110VAC to 220VACRemote ON/OFF control via the Z-Wave controllersOne-push manual ON/OFF control with the front panel push buttonSupport External ON/OFF key connects to the moduleScrew terminals for wires connection - Flexible mounting structure. Mount inside gang box or any place.
Specs:
Height | 5.25 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 1.75 Inches |
13. Lutron Caseta Wireless Wallplate Bracket for Pico Remote, PICO-WBX-ADAPT,Translucent
- Mounts (1) Pico remote to your wall to add a point of control where you need one most
- Replaces existing switch to create a 3-way application for your caset a dimmer or switch; no wiring required
- Use with Lutron claro wallplate (sold separately)
- Includes (1) wallplate bracket; coordinating accessories sold separately
Features:
Specs:
Color | Translucent |
Height | 4.5 Inches |
Length | 2.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.25 Inches |
14. Lutron Connected Bulb Remote
Control of select smart bulbs from anywhere in your house, no app requiredOne remote can control multiple smart bulbs (30)Features on, off, raise and lower buttonsCompatible with Cree Connected and GE Link bulbsCan be handheld, wall-mounted or placed on a pedestal
Specs:
Color | 2.6 |
Height | 2.6 Inches |
Length | 0.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.15 Pounds |
Width | 1.25 Inches |
15. Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White
- Automatically turns the lights on when you enter the room and off when you leave
- Features XCT sensing technology which detects fine motion, such as typing at a desk or reading, ensuring lights do not turn off inadvertently
- Optional: senses daylight so lights do not turn on when there is enough natural light in the room
- Programmable time-out of lights - 1, 5, 15 or 30 minutes
- Works with all bulb types; up to 250-Watt incandescent, halogen, electronic low voltage 200-Watt magnetic low voltage 150-Watt CFL/LED 2 Amp ballasts
- Single-pole only; great for small rooms like kitchens, laundry rooms and closets
- Installs in as little as 15 minutes; no neutral required, ground wire required
- Includes (1) Maestro Sensor switch; coordinating wallplates sold separately
- In vacancy mode, a 15 second "grace period" follows the timeout, where the sensor will turn the lights back on if it senses motion.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 4.2 Inches |
Length | 1.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
16. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Plug-in Lamp Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and The Google Assistant | P-PKG1P-WH | White
- PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with changing seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home; Use Smart Away to randomly turn your lights on/off to look like you’re home when you're away (smart bridge, L-BDG2-WH, required)
- MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand (smart bridge required)
- CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control your lights your way – the free app, your voice, or from the wall. Schedule lights to change at set times, or activate lighting scenes with the touch of a button (bridge required)
- GET MORE, SPEND LESS: 1 Caseta smart switch can control many bulbs at once; Make many bulbs smart, even your existing bulbs; Get smart control of multiple styles of dimmable LED, incandescent and halogen bulbs
- SMART CONTROL OF PLUGIN LAMPS: Simply plugs into a standard outlet and can be used with up to 2 floor or table lamps
- WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL: Use the included wireless Pico remote to turn your lights on, off or dim and brighten with the touch of a button from anywhere in the home
- EASY 3-WAY SETUP: Create a 3-way by mounting the Pico to almost any wall surface without cutting holes or pulling wire, with a Pico bracket (PICO-WBX-ADAPT sold separately). Replace existing 3-way switches by mounting the bracket and Pico over the backbox
- TECHNICAL DETAILS: Works with up to 100Watts of dimmable LED light bulbs/CFL light bulbsor 300Watt incandescent/halogen bulbs; Not rated for low voltage applications (i.e track or landscape lighting)
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 6.75 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 5.94 Inches |
17. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White
- PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home; enable smart away to randomly turn your lights on/off to look like you’re home even if you’re away (smart bridge, L-BDG2-WH, required)
- MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Ring, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand (smart bridge required)
- CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control a variety of ways – via the free Lutron app, your voice or from the wall; schedule lights to change at set times or activate scenes with the touch of a button (bridge required)
- WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL: For added convenience, use with the wireless Pico remote (PJ2-2B-GXX-L01) to turn your lights on/off with the touch of a button from anywhere in the home
- EASY 3-WAY SETUP: Create a 3-way by mounting Pico to almost any wall surface - no cutting holes or pulling wire, with a wall mount bracket (PICO-WBX-ADAPT sold separately). Replace existing 3-way switches by mounting the bracket and Pico over the backbox
- TECHNICAL DETAILS: Works with up to 720-Watts of incandescent/halogen/ELC/MLV, 6A of LED/CFL or 3.6A of ceiling or exhaust fans
- EASY INSTALL: Easily replaces existing switch and installs in as little as 15 minutes; Neutral Wire Required
- INCLUDES: (1) Caseta smart switch; Coordinating wallplate sold separately
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 4.4 Inches |
Length | 1.9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 3.3 Inches |
18. SYLVANIA General Lighting 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer
ZigBee Switch: A compatible ZigBee hub is required to control this switch. Pair your switch to a compatible ZigBee hub such as SmartThings (dimming not supported) or OSRAM LIGHTIFYProgrammable Buttons: Program the 2 buttons to turn your light or group of lights on and off or set a specific sceneDimm...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 2.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Dimmer |
Weight | 0.105 Pounds |
Width | 3.9 Inches |
19. GE 45605 Z-Wave Duplex Receptacle
Works with Alexa for voice control (hub required, Alexa device and hub sold separately).Features one always-on pass-through AC outlet and one Z-Wave enabled outletWhite lighting control matches most standard wall plates (wall plate not included)Easily locate the receptacle in a dark room with the in...
Specs:
Color | WHITE |
Height | 2.7 Inches |
Length | 6.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 2.64in. x 4.62in. x 7.12in. |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Width | 4.6 Inches |
20. Etekcity Remote Control Outlet Wireless Remote Light Switch for Lights, Lamps, Fans, Household Appliances, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC, ETL Listed (Learning Code, 3Rx-1Tx)
Remotely control hard-to-reach appliances and devices without built-in power ON/OFF switches at the push of a button, an ideal ally to those with limited mobilitySaves you the trouble of having to plug in and unplug your electric appliances, giving users instant control over lamps, televisions, and ...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 6.2 Inches |
Length | 2.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.65 Pounds |
Width | 4.9 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on electrical switches
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where electrical switches are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I'm copypasta'ing my answer to this question from a month ago. Good luck!
Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!
A few other recommendations:
HOME MODE:
Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
VACATION MODE:
When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
GOOD LUCK!
Optional:
BONUS EDIT:
Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D
DOUBLE BONUS EDIT:
I can't wait for my Google Home and Amazon Echo Dots to arrive!!!!
Hey /u/adrojono,
Thought I could help and also offer some clarification on the patent question you had.
As /u/fastlerner mentioned, Philips Hue bulbs aren't meant to be put on a smart switch, but rather controlled from their app (or if you have their bridge paired to your HUB, you can control from your HUB -- either way, it's meant to be controlled remotely vs physically).
There are some other options for you. Philips Hue was actually one of my first smart home purchases and I love their bulbs. I use a couple of things to manually control them:
The remote works fantastic and I still have them up around the house to control the dim levels of the bulbs. It pairs directly to the Hue bridge and you can dim up/down and also set favorite scenes (I believe... I just use it for dim up/down).
The Inovelli switches (I have the old version bc the new one is still in testing, but it will have the same features) allow you to disable the internal relay and also send a Z-Wave Scene Command to your HUB (Please note: You have to have a HUB that supports Z-Wave for this as the Hue Bridge is ZigBee -- I'm assuming since you mentioned you have a GE 14294 switch that you do have a Z-Wave enabled HUB).
How this works is that you would install the Inovelli switch, disable the internal relay (so when you tap the switch off, it does not physically cut power to the light bulb), and then set up your scenes to control the Hue bulb.
To give you an example -- my daughters love their color lights and likes to go to bed with different colors each night, so the setup is as follows:
Now the limitation here is that you cannot dim up/down in real time, nor get to a precise level. This is because Hue speaks ZigBee and Inovelli speaks Z-Wave and it has to be interpreted at the HUB level and there is no commands that translate to dimming up/down in realtime between Z-Wave and ZigBee.
Hopefully that makes sense?
Ok, now onto the patent issue. I can't speak in detail about it for legal reasons, but I can say the patent was around how our switch works in a 3-Way setting.
As you may know, one of the features of the switch is that it can be used in multiple 3-Way settings:
The first bullet point was actually patented by Zooz and they were kind enough to share this with us right as we were going to production, so we had to make a modification, which caused a delay.
The good news is that we were able to find a different way of making it work, so we wouldn't violate the patent.
So, to directly answer your question of cutting out features and quality:
The answer is no, we did not have to cut out any features and no, we did not sacrifice quality to do so. I wish I could tell you exactly how we did it, but we are actually in the patent process ourselves around our approach to solving the 3-Way with a dumb switch issue, so I can't disclose right now :/
As for switch recommendations:
Hope this helped a bit and I'm happy to answer any other questions!
Eric
Founder | Inovelli
First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.
Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.
Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.
One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.
My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.
These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.
And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.
Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.
Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.
TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.
Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?
Xbox- probably via IR.
Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.
Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.
So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.
For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.
Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.
Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).
IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.
Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.
You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.
Smart things
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4
Hubitat
https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4
If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.
Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.
GE Z wave light switch & Extender
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2
For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.
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You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.
Z Wave Door Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4
Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!
Abode Security System
https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5
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For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!
I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.
Kasa Light Bulbs LB110
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5
Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.
I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version
HASSIO
https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/
I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.
In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.
I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.
In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.
The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
*EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK
This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.
iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1
Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1
247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R
https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/
These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).
Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK
That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.
https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html
Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.
When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:
6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1
Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W
Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.
If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330
But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.
Here are my thoughts:
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That should get you going!
So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.
First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed
You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide
A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly
Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium
I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area
Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140
Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724
Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY
Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG
Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300
While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.
I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one
I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:
I've never heard of Legrand, and I've always seen Lutron as having more of a closed system, but I see that Caseta is getting, or just got official SmartThings support. What I meant was going with z-wave dimmers or on/off switches like the ones made by GE or Linear/GoControl. The nice things about regular z-wave, z-wave plus, and zigbee products like this is that it's compatible with a whole slew of hubs, and will probably be supported by all future hubs for a long, long time. Doesn't matter if you have SmartThings, Wink, VeraLite, whatever, it will work.
Lighting doesn't have to be complicated, it's more about the hub you go with, than the device that controls your bulbs because that is what you interact with. I have a mix of z-wave dimmers and smart bulbs around the house, altogether 20 something light devices connected to a SmartThings hub. Alexa integration is great, as is Google Assistant on android (I have no iOS devices). I can tell either Alexa or the Google Assistant to turn lights on/off, dim lights to a percentage (I love being able to dim lights to any percent I want, 1%, 10%, 63%, whatever I want) and they change instantly. I use an android app called SharpTools that has a great UI for controlling devices, and good support for creating widgets.
I don't use scenes, but SmartThings has "routines" so you can create a widget on your phone's home screen or control it with Alexa to perform preset tasks (Set Living Room light to 10%, Set Reading Lamp to 85%, turn on a power outlet, lock your front door, etc).
Here's some links if you want to look at some other options:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2
Linear Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK/ (I have a bunch of these and they're great).
I have the Wink hub and like it. I don't know how it compares to Smart Things. Some people, myself included, have had an issue where communication breaks down between HA and Wink, and HA stops displaying the current state of items, but I think that will be fixed in the next release.
The only reason I did that instead of a USB stick is that I started my home automation with Wink, and only tried Home Assistant when I saw how much more robust of a platform it was. That said, I do find it easier to add things to Wink than to HA, so that's a bonus. I also use these little remotes a few places: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK/ And I don't know if they can be connected directly to HA yet.
Basically I use HA for most of my automations, but I use Wink for manual control of my items, whether I'm home or away.
However, it gets a little messy when I start adding things directly to HA because they're not Wink-compatible. Currently I have a Wifi plug that's not controllable by Wink and a Xioami hub with a couple of items hooked up to it, so I can no longer rely exclusively on the Wink hub for manual control.
Still, I like the hub, and I like the app, and since HA is doing all the automation from a Raspberry Pi, I never had to root it.
My guess is that you could do almost all of the same things using a HA installation with the right USB stick, but I still like Wink because I can get stuff added and working more quickly.
Smart switches are the best replacement because it leaves everything the way every other house is built, but adds smart functionality. If you install smart bulbs, they are controlled from two different sources - the light switch, and your phone. Want to turn the light on but someone flipped the switch? You must get up to manually flip the switch, then control the light bulb.
Smart bulbs are only good if you live in an apartment complex, need RGB bulbs, or want to change color temperature. Overall, the smart switch is the best thing to use because it only adds functionality, not take any away. I personally use a technology called Z-Wave which creates a strong mesh network in your house. Z-Wave doesn't rely on internet, which means if your internet goes down they continue to function. A large portion of WiFi devices require you to have internet as well, which is a huge downfall of home automation relying on WiFi.
I have a couple of these, a Vision Relay that i've installed to keep my original switches, and a few other z-wave outlets around.
Edit: In terms of a switch to control it, either bulb can be turned off by the existing wall switch or lamp switch. Either can be turned on by the same switch, but at least with Hue's current firmware, it will revert to full brightness white, I don't know about LIFX. However if you do turn it off with one of those switches, there is no way to turn it back on with the app/voice assistant/etc. So when I talked about the switches above, I'm talking about smart switches.
I don't think I was clear either that I think Hue might be the way to go. Of course you will get some bias towards Hue in /r/hue, but if you are concerned about reliability, automation, and control capabilities, I think Hue has more to offer.
The easiest solution would be to go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iTnJDbPWF33T2
The work great with the Hue bulbs and can be mounted on the wall like a regular switch. There are other similar options, but in my opinion these look the best and are the most user friendly. Might be a good interim solution even if you decide to get into a more sophisticated system like Smartthings or Home Assistant.
My girlfriend also hates using Alexa to control lights so I've done a similar thing and set presets for color and brightness based on time of day which greatly reduces how often she has to deal with the lights. Motion sensor that trigger simple lights like hallways and bathrooms work well too.
Here's what you asked for
Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA
Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0
Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG
Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX
Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.
The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.
If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.
The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.
Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.
You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.
Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:
I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.
I thought I'd share my experience for the community, and hopefully my experiences help or encourage others to give this a shot on their own. I had absolutely no experience growing anything when I started, so if I can do it, so can anyone else!
I've got an equipment list of the stuff I'm using since it took me a long time to figure out what to buy. This doesn't include the $1.50/week for RO water from the local grocery store, the electricity, or the other stuff I ended up buying afterward for my clones.
No grow tent or ventiliation is needed for my scenario since I have full access to a basement. It's perfect since there is a water heater and a boiler in the same room so the temp is always pretty constant, there is plenty of CO2 from the gas that the appliances burn, and the humidity is also pretty constant.
A few of the mistakes I made that I'd fix next time:
The images have some details about my grow, but I'll be happy to answer any other questions folks might have.
Item | Cost | Product Link
---|---|----
Seeds (OG Kush Feminized, 20ct) | $80 | Marijuana Seeds NL
Coco Coir | $17 | Kempf Coco
300W LED Lighting | $80 | GalaxyHydro
Plastic Pot | $0 | Craigslist - Free
Light Timers | $12 | Light Timers
pH Tester | $18 | pH Pen
pH Up and Down | $16 | General Hydro
Jeweler's Loupe | $6 | Magnify Me
Nutes | $35 | Canna Coco 1 & 2
Perlite | $13 | Black Gold
CalMag | $17 | Botanicare Supplement
TOTAL | $294
Also, THANK YOU to everyone in this sub. There is a ton of info out there about growing, but this place is the best location I found for timely info related to my new hobby.
I have the exact same desire as you, and it is frustrating that these are so hard to find. I do have a couple of experiments set up around my house's
The first is the easiest. I have a few Hue dimmer switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS) in strategic locations around the house, but they are typically next to existing switches that I've taped over-the-counter and overall it's an unsatisfying solution.
My second experiment is a zwave scene controller (Gocontrol Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y), and it's probably my favorite solution so far, but they're difficult to come by. I don't think they're actually manufactured anymore. I have it installed talking to my automation system which turns around and talks to hue lights, and it works pretty well. I could achieve the same thing by using any zwave (or zigbee, I guess) in-wall switch and just not hook up the load write, but it seems wrong to me, and I philosophically don't want to pay for the switching or dimming hardware. My ideal price point for these would be $30-35 instead of $50.
My third experiment is something that just got released at CES (Click for Philips Hue (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMWH2YB). It's actually also pretty elegant and doesn't actually need to be wired in, but I find it's slightly less reliable than I'd like, and I sometimes have to push the buttons decently hard or multiple times to ensure functionality.
My ideal solution would be a combination of second and third, basically a wired zigbee in-wall scene controller, and aside from the RGB one posted earlier in this thread (it's $80!!), I haven't really seen one that fits the bill, much less is reasonably priced.
Like /u/JshWright, I use z-wave switches and dimmers that replace the physical switch. They're quite a bit more expensive, but easily fit in any switch junction box and don't have to connect to wifi.
I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK
3-way configurations are pretty easy with these, just might take you a bit to figure out which wires need to go where. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
I've looked at the HomeSeer ones too, which look pretty cool. They're Z-wave Plus and also support double and triple tap, although I'm not sure if HASS and/or OpenZWave support that function anyway.
http://www.homeseer.com/compare-z-wave-on---off-wall-switches.html
Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.
Basics
You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...
Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling).Already Purchased 
You should seriously consider a different HUB
Dimmers and Wall Switches
Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!
Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4
Garage Opener
Chamberlain is great!
Security
If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.
Audio
Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)
Front Door Cam/Doorbell
Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.
Outdoor Light
Just install the smart switch of your choice.
Fan's
Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...
Under Cabinet Lighting
Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)
Outdoor Speakers
The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!
 
PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)
 
*Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.
So my 2 cents would be to go with a combination of Lutron and Hue. I'm very particular and insistent on having the same design language for things like faceplates, switches, appliances etc.
Lutron Caséta switches are quite nice. They work well as everyone has stated, but obviously lack color changing options. This is where Phillips Hue and the Lutron Connected bulb remote come in. Lutron makes a Zigbee pico remote that can control hue lights and can be mounted to look exactly like any other Caséta switch! You Just need the Pico wall bracket.
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/Components/ConnectedBulbRemoteControl/Overview.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA
This seriously was a game-changer for me as it allows for a very dynamic smart home environment. I would use Hue for everything except for the fact that some of my lights (Dining room chandelier and other special light fixtures) don't have a hue bulb in their size or wouldn't look good since they are exposed.
Another really awesome feature if you have Sonos is they have a Sonos pico remote as well! So when I walk into my dining room, I can turn to the faceplate (with all nice looking, standardized switches) Turn on my Caseta dining room chandelier, my Bar lights (hue color strip), and press play on my dining room Sonos!!
http://www.casetawireless.com/Pages/sonos.aspx
No lie, I swapped every single Leviton Z-wave switch out for these. The flexibility of adding 3-ways, and placing switches wherever you want is seriously fantastic and can't recommend it enough.
If you don't mind adding another hub you should check out Lutron Caseta. They are a bit more expensive than GE and Insteon but they're reliable and work well with HomeKit and Alexa. You can make scenes in the Caseta app and both the Home app and the Alexa app will be able to use the scenes that you created.
As for a fan switch the only option that works with HomeKit and Alexa is the Caseta Multi-Location Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JZVyybFAGHSZQ
This wont be able to change the fan speed but it lets you turn the fan on and off.
As for setting scenes with the touch of a button, you could get a Harmony hub and some pop switches. The Harmony doesn't play well with HomeKit but it's pretty cool with Alexa. Although the app is kind of counter intuitive, it works well once you get it the way you want it.
Harmony Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I7VyybF2F7VWZ
Pop Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JO8TLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_g6VyybPZPFZ51
You could try fishing a neutral wire from the
ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.
You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.
You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.
Assuming you have SmartThings (based on the /r), you can use any Z-wave or Zigbee switch. I've tried multiple (reputable) brands, based on what's on sale, and my experience has been they're all pretty much the same. But all mine look like modern paddle switches, there are other options out there.
It's debatable, but I'd call the 'gold standard' to be the GE switches. I was just providing a link to them in a thread yesterday and noticed they were on sale for $33, which is a damn good price. Looks like they rolled out an updated version so they're discounted, and personally I don't think the upgrades mean much. I just picked up 4 more, because... why not.
When those aren't on sale I've been going to Zooz. I like their small company attitude and they have terrific customer support. And they frequently have sales. You can get them on Amazon, but the sales are on their website.
These are the types of wall plates that I use. Easy to find in single, 2-, 3-, and even 4- gang. I have a custom made 7-gang at my house, so everything I've bought since was done to match that style.
But again, all these are because I wanted modern paddle switches and the "decora" style wall plates. You can get smart switches in traditional rockers, or modern version like the Caseta switches (which still use the decora shape).
Hey /u/Mercury357 !
Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.
I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99
Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now
If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)
I got you. I would skip over the Nicrew all together and just opt for something more expensive that will get the job done but is still in your price range. I have had the Nicrew, lights in between the Nicrew and what I am about to recommend, and then the lights I am recommending are now on all my tanks. There is SIGNIFICANT difference in plant growth even in my suuuuper low-tech tanks.
The main reason I suggest these lights is they contain true 660nm Red LED lights which are crucial to plant photosynthesis. Without this specific red spectrum most plants have significant difficulty utilizing the light, no matter how strong it is. Here is a picture of one of my tanks running this light: https://i.imgur.com/hYhcp9Z.jpg
These are freaking awesome. Extremely easy to use, High level of customization, and 2 outlets on each timer. I can't recommend them enough.
Alternative, the TP-Link Switch is compatible with Home/Assistant, as are their Plugs and LED Bulbs. Note that there is no IFTTT support as of yet.
I have two Smart Bulbs and a Mini Plug in my living room right now. App-wise, they're controlled with Kasa on my phone and a tablet. I can turn on/off, set schedules, dim (except Plug), etc... and do everything but schedules with my Google Home.
The Switch is part of the same family of products, same core functionality across the board.
Not sure how 2 Switches controlling the same lights would work...
but might be worth a shot.(edit: see posts below)I can say, "Hey Google, turn off the lights.", or call out a specific lamp. The Plug is treated separate (attached to bias lighting behind my TV). It doesn't trigger on "lights" calls. I wonder if Switches are yet another category.
With the possibility of IFTTT support, I hope to get movie/tv show time going with a single command, which would dim/kill the Bulbs and kick on the Plug.
Aside from the above, I have my Bulbs set to turn on when I get up for work weekdays. I'm going to get another, color changing one for my bedside, put that on a circadian schedule (option in Kasa).
My venture in to this started off with a Belkin WeMo Mini, but it would not connect to my hidden network (should not be the case with latest fw). My case went all the way to an engineer but after testing a TP-Link Smart Plug, which worked flawlessly and imo, had a much easier setup, I tried the bulbs and now I'm all in with them. I returned my Belkin products but was able to discuss my issues with an engineer we had a solid conversation. Kudos to them.
Hope some of this helps!
On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.
Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.
The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)
As a starting point here are a few links that may help:
You could keep your current bulbs and install a smart switch instead, this is a popular option:
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506608062&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+smart+switch&psc=1
You would need a hub with that, but considering smartthings is selling for $50 on Amazon it could be more cost effective depending on the amount of bulbs you would have to replace if you went with smart bulbs instead.
For the smart bulb option I'd say check out sylvania lightify. Lowes has them on sale now for 75% off. They're $7.50 for the basic white ones. It can pair directly with most smart home hubs like smartthings or wink so if you already have one it would be very cost effective.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Lightify-promotion/4294400949
I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:
GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724
The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:
I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.
Technically, any plant will be fine any high light, but it's always a good idea to try to pair the plants with the light that you have, or vice versa. With even just a Stingray, you'll probably be hitting 45-50 PAR on a 20 long, since the distance from the light to the substrate will be absurdly short. The best way to alleviate this is to raise the light somehow, either with some sort of pipe contraption like I built, or mounting it to the ceiling or wall.
For that high of light, I would definitely recommend a timer that allows multiple on-off periods and have the light on for 3-4 hours, then have a 3-4 hour siesta, then on for another 3-4 hours. This way, the plants have time to use up all of that high light they've gotten from the first burst and they'll be ready for the next. It won't overwhelm them and it should keep algae in check to a degree. If this is a new tank, prepare for diatoms... delicious, disgusting, aggravating diatoms.
Edit: Here is a great article about lighting and PAR
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
This is making sense now, I'm pretty sure I'm following you. Black in your hot, white is your neutral, bare wire is ground, red wire is "load", this is the switch line. The fact that you have this in the outlet box coming from the ceiling is good.
So, I'm assuming that when you pull the fan down, you will see that there is a fan controller that is hooked up to the black and white wires. Making it permanently "hot" the fan controller then relays the fan on and off. You will find the red wire abandoned, it used to be used (or was intended to be used) to switch the light, it is still attached to the "load" of the switch.
You are in good shape.... GE makes a pretty good z wave fan control module. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ. You will remove the fan module and hook the black wire to the black wire of the fan and the blue wire to the red wire. The white wires should all be tied together and it should be capped off in the box the physical switch is.
Here is a diagram. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/fan-switch-loop.gif
I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.
I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.
I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )
Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.
If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/
An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.
Sure! I used these lights from amazon. I think they are supposed to be for garages but they met the specs I was looking for (CCT: 6500k and 2100+ lumens per square foot per light) and were relatively inexpensive. I have 2 on each shelf connected to eachother by cords that are included in the pack. The pack also comes metal snaps that screw in, but I opted to attach using large command picture hanging strips. I kept the metal brackets just in case the command strips didnt work but so far they have been working great and I dont have to put as many holes in the hutch. Plus I have run the lights for 8 hours straight and can still touch the aluminum housing. I would say after that amount of time its like touching one of those hand warmer packs right when they start. Its kind of hard to see from the pictures but I did have to drill small 5/8th inch holes so the lights could connect as a continuous unit. This was honestly just for me because I am forgetful and have them hooked up to this timer. I also have some mini fans that I would like to put in so I can keep the doors shut... but I havent quite figured that out yet haha
I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.
​
I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.
​
Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.
Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:
This is my system:
Network Diagram
I have several switches like this: Zwave Switch, some are on/off like that, some are dimmers. For my dining room I have a hanging light with 5 bulbs. I can control all 5 with one dimmer.
I use a SmartThings hub to control everything. So I can walk in to the room and hit the switch like decades of muscle memory has taught me, or I can say "Alexa turn on the dining room light". Google integrates with SmartThings too, I just have a Echo Dot and Ecobee 4 already. Guests don't have to guess how to turn on and off a light. It looks and acts just like the switch that used to be there.
If you have WiFi bulbs that you control through Google it still gives you the same end result but there are more points of possible failure in that path. If you leave the room and turn off the switch they are useless until you turn the switch back on. Any WiFi device answers to it's home base server. Each and every bulb has to ping home to check in and ask for commands. So each bulb is working separately. Even if you create a group in Google home, it's still 10 bulbs. All 10 have to be working perfectly for them all to turn on together. You may end up with one bulb that didn't get the memo and stays off, or more likely they will turn on at slightly different times due to latency. You ask Google to do something, Google has to ask the bulb server to do something, and the bulb server has to ask the bulb to do something.
A hub may still call home the same way, but it's a single point. The hub then sends the command locally to the device directly. It should be more reliable and faster that way.
The only time that smart bulbs make sense to me is if you really really want color changing bulbs. Otherwise it's simpler and more cost effective to use a switch. Bulbs will always burn out, even LED bulbs. Dumb bulbs are cheaper to replace down the line. The switch shouldn't ever need to be replaced.
Many new people resist getting a hub. See it as an unnecessary expense. But over time the limitations of a hubless system will show up, and the hub often doesn't work well with the WiFi devices, so you end up re-buying everything. So in the long run it's cheaper and easier to just bite the bullet and get a home control hub that uses Zwave or Zigbee. You can still add voice control with Google or Alexa to most hubs.
Many companies make Zwave devices, it's a standard and there is competition to keep prices in check. And if these companies go out of business tomorrow the Zwave devices they already made still work. If the company that made a WiFi device goes out of business the device stops working. That's a real risk for a cheap Chinese made WiFi device, it can be abandoned without notice.
If Samsung killed SmartThings tomorrow, my entire Zwave network is portable. I could get a Wink, Vera, HomeSeer, HomeAssistant, etc and only have to replace one piece of hardware to be back up and running. So it's a scalable and portable methodology.
Edit:
I thought of another analogy. A hubless system of WiFi devices is like organizing a pot luck with a group of friends. You have to get them all to agree to a certain time, organize who is going to do what, carpools, etc and pray no one forgets something or flakes or breaks down. A hub based system is like giving a command to an Army general. You give one command and they get it done. You can give the general standing order and they will act on their own, when such-and-such happens, do this-or-that.
All your eggs are in one basket, but lots of people make baskets, and the eggs can be moved easily.
Started seeds in early november. Put in the system around november 8th. the last pics in that album were around nov 16th, so about a weeks worth of growth. i pulled out the lettuce tub today to clean it up and i'm gonan replace it with a DWC bucket for some cherry tomatoes. here's pics of the peppers in their current state http://imgur.com/a/NY6xR . insanely bushy and got a few peppers and a TON of blooms that are quite healthy.
the lettuces were a mix of Perpetual spinach (A type of chard, it did insanely well), some oak leaf, some butter crunch, and some romaine. The lettuces did pretty well, but I think I was overcrowding the tub. Also, most of those lettuces really didn't do too great with the "cut and come again" type harvest, but the P. spinach did GREAT. You could slice off the outer edge leaves at the base, and the next day it'd be back to growing new ones at a crazy pace. I think next time, I'm just gonna do a tub full of it cause it was not only delicious eats but grew very very well. Lettuce is just so damn cheap at the store that it was not very practical to grow in the tubs, which is why I'm pulling it out to start some cherry tomatoes. With as good as the peppers are doing, I imagine a cherry tomato plant in a DWC bucket will thrive quite well.
Here's everything else I'm using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS07T5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB2TL08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKCQJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The nute levels were around 1000-1400 (Meter seems to fluctuate). I have hard water with a base PPM of about 160. The nutes I added had calcium/mag added, so I was a little worried about possibly too much calcium since my water definitely has plenty, but nope, no issues. Big healthy green leaves and fast growth. No root rot as well. Only issue so far is aphids. Lots of the little fuckers. Going to my local hydro store here today to try and figure out a solution
You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S
If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.
You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE
You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1
You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote
If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch
So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.
> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?
It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.
Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.
But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.
You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.
You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.
Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.
Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.
You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.
Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.
Have fun.
Yes, I use the Lutron connected remotes with Hue exclusively and they work great. A fantastic workaround for the lack of a true on-wall switch for Hue products which is existing gang plate friendly.
Sure, you can use the Hue dimmer but it looks out of place when next to an existing light switch.
Installation is simple. The important part is to pair the remote to the Hue hub to get the remote on the same zigbee channel. It won't show up in the Hue app so it won't be obvious if the pairing was successful. This makes sure the bulb stays connected to he Hue hub after the remote pairs with the bulb.
For instructions on pairing, check the #3 top rated customer review on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482202187&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+connected+bulb+remote&dpPl=1&dpID=310BUkrwnfL&ref=plSrch
Do you mean a normal side and a dimmer side, for two separate lights/loads, in a single gang? No, I don't.
If you mean a smart switch for a single load, with separate normal and dimming actions, Lutron Caseta has four buttons (on/off with dim up/down in the middle). Those are quite popular, mainly due to their ability to work without requiring a neutral in the electrical box, plus the flexibility of their Pico remote that pairs with them, allowing 3-or-more-way switches, even in places that aren't wired, but won't work directly with Alexa without picking up a Lutron Caseta hub.
Switch/Pico kit
Switch/Pico/hub kit
Pro hub (if needed, for example, with a solution like Hubitat)
GE makes Decora-style paddles that are tap top on, tap bottom off, and hold top/bottom for dimming; they're Zwave and work with Alexa ... if you have the 2.0 with smart home hub. They need a neutral, however.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch (also Zwave Plus and Zigbee options)
GE and Lutron also make ceiling fan controls that match their light switch products.
Tent: TopoGrow 2-in-1 Indoor Grow Tent 108"X48"X80"
Lights: Three of these: MARS HYDRO 960w, apparently they just came out with a 2nd version of these at 900w, so here's that link
Soil:Fox Farm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil
Pots:Fabric Pots
Humidifier:3.5G humidifier
Fan: basic large oscilating fan
Exhaust:AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6
CO2 Bag: Exhale 365
Fertilizers: Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit
Timers: Basic ones
Basil Seeds: because basil is fucking delicious
let me know if you all see anything extra i need or anything you think i could improve on!
Thanks again for the help!
I just switched to 12/12 from 24/0, started the flowering formula for the nutrients, and switched on the "bloom" light on the lights.
Smart switches are probably the best in MOST situations.
The reasons to go with a bulb (In my opinion) are:
If you do go with bulb there are some ways to get around some of the problems of the switch behavior with smart bulbs:
I asked a question recently about switches to use with Hue bulbs here
I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).
Here's what I recommend:
HTH!
So the plus just gets you Zigbee control. I have an Echo Plus, but all my smart home devices are wifi, and not Zigbee (except a few hue lights, but I already have the hub for that).
So I'm controlling:
All over wifi.
You'd need the echo plus to control:
This light switch without a hub, but you wouldn't need it for this other switch.
I did some googling, and it looks like no Apple TVs do Zigbee. So the normal echo should be able to do everything it can currently do. The plus just opens the option to directly control Zigbee devices.
edit: as /u/RichardBLine correctly pointed out, Echo Plus supports Zigbee and not Z-wave. I've updated the post and links. Thanks!
Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.
I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.
I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.
Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.
Happy gaming!
You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.
You’re talking about a jamb switch, but they don’t meet energy codes in my area. The issue that municipalities have with jamb switches is that if you don’t close the door then the light never goes off. If you put in a motion sensor with an automatic off then it will go off after a certain amount of time even if you don’t close the door. That’s really the best option. Technically motion sensors indoors don’t meet CA energy codes either because they don’t want lights automatically turning on anywhere in the house. They want you to physically hit the switch and then for it to time off. That is called an occupancy sensor. It’s actually required in closets and bathrooms.
But what you’d want is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=58685001040&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfvT7I7-5AIVoyCtBh20jwIxEAAYASAAEgJHu_D_BwE&hvadid=274898185342&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032130&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11606527727516147700&hvtargid=kwd-296546370640&hydadcr=12164_10197800&keywords=switch+motion+sensor&qid=1570037880&sr=8-5
So the wine fridge came with the house. Free.
Humidifier: $40
Crane Filter-Free Droplet, Cool Mist Humidifier, Blue and White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1CQ9OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FEJ1CbDZ3G50M
Fan: $17
AC Infinity AXIAL 8025, Muffin Fan, 120V AC 80mm x 25mm High Speed, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXSFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGJ1CbDYVZV8J
Fan speed controller: $14
AC Infinity, Fan Speed Controller for 100 to 125V AC Axial Muffin Cooling Fans, Single Connector, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00809BQZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HJ1Cb633YCRV
Timer: $13
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIJ1CbQQD38YE
(I'm going to upgrade to a wemo smart plug here, at some point)
Exit vent: $10
Plastic Air Vent Grille Cover 3 Flaps Wall Duct Ventilation Grill With Net Plastic Louvre Air Vent Grille with Flyscreen Cover(1515CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N83QSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPJ1Cb3KV0CYM
(Can get for half this price at Home Depot)
Controller: $175 + shipping (day... $15)
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37&products_id=642
Miscellaneous: $65
Total: $350 (ish)
Acquiring a suitable fridge will certainly add here. I got lucky and we had the wine cooler sitting around for years. It was literally in our house when we moved in.
Hope this helps!
The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.
Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.
Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...
I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.
The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.
Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.
If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.
The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.
Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!
I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.
In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.
I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.
In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.
Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.
Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
So it’s a double hit with keeping the wife happy.
First, she won’t want you to replace everything you have. That would just be wasteful spending.
To make things easier to start, I would suggest the connected bulb remote from Lutron. If set up correctly you would have on/off as well as dimming control of your hue lights, while they ecstatically keep things looking tidy. (They fit in standard decora wallplates which should do the trick.
Now my general rule of thumb is to prevent “dumb” accessories. Something that can easily lose its power and no longer respond. The only hue light in my house vulnerable to this is the 2 A19 bulbs above my stove. I just always leave the stove light on now as the connected bulb remote is nearby, plus it controls under cabinet hue light strips (thus double benefit).
For long term happy wife / happy life (following not just rule 2, but rule 1: don’t waste money) I would suggest the Lutron Caséta line. They can be configured in 2 pole, 3 pole, and 4 pole (takes creativity). They offer dimming & on/off switches. They also offer Serena shades which use the same hub, and have the same size of remote.
I have friends who say that decora sizing doesn’t matter, but it’s once you add on to your setup with outlet switches, blind control, lights, fans, spotify, etc… that having everything on a single wallplate is super nice.
On a final note. To change colours, I drive via Siri allot. Most of my scenes would have a colour, but if not then a simple “set the kitchen to red” will suffice.
Fin.
edit: link
DETAILS ON SET UP
Light: Roleadro 300W LED light
Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell
Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent
Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights
A fan speed controller
3-gallon smart pots
A humidity and temp sensor
Plus a small clip on fan.
GROW DETAILS
I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.
I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.
Haha, thanks! I like to know what's what, but it looks like since they didn't move the switch box, they didn't have to update it to the latest code when they renovated. I might have to look into a leak-to-ground switch if I can find one. I might be out of luck without using a Lutron Caseta Wireless.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467145260&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+caseta+wireless
Looking at that, I might actually do that, Lutron has better quality products anyway and the price has come down on them too!
I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.
It probably depends on the model of your gas fireplace but for mine it was fairly easy. I used a Remotec Z-Wave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's showing unavailable on Amazon right now so not sure where else you could get it. You will also need a generic Lamp Cord to power the dry contact. I didn't do anything to the wall switch.
Basically, the wall switch has 2 low voltage wires coming from it and going under the fireplace. You cut these wires under the fireplace and you connect them to the dry contact. Essentially you now have 2 coming in from the switch and 2 going out to the fireplace. Then you connect the lamp cord to power portion of the dry contact and then plug it into the outlet under the fireplace (Not sure how you would do this without an outlet under there so I'd check for that first). That's it! The wall switch still works like normal and now you can control it like any other Z-Wave switch through an app or with voice. I'm not aware of anything similar that works over Wifi instead if you don't have a hub.
As for safety, it's probably safer now that I can track and disable it remotely. You can also set up automations to turn it off or notify you if left on for too long. You aren't touching any gas lines and the wires you are touching are all low voltage, I don't see why people consider this dangerous.
GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q
And one of more of these
GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF
Your previous post mentioned that this started after day light savings time. Have you considered just putting her to bed at her regular (before the time change) time? Then maybe adjusting bed time by 5 or 10 minutes every night to make it an easier adjustment for her?
Also, I let my kids stay up as late as they want but only if they are in their bed reading. This goes for all three of them (11, 7, and 2.5) and has always worked wonders for keeping them in the bed. They usually fall asleep on their own within 30 minutes or so. We have these lights strung up in the toddlers room on a switch timer so they automatically turn on at bedtime and off 30 min later. Gives him enough light to look through his book (his current favorite is "Too Many Carrots") and we don't have to risk waking him up to turn them off later. The 7 year old has a cute cat shaped silicone light, which she adores, and the 11 year old uses a head lamp from our camping gear.
So I wanted to report back for people who come across this thread. Based on Manbient's recommendation, I am using Lutron Connected Remotes in conjunction with the Phillips Hue Bulbs and it works great. "Pairing" the Remote to the Hue hub first and then to each bulb you want it to control worked flawlessly. I tested a network outtage and the lutron remote still controls the lights just fine. The Hue remote DOES NOT, as it reports back to the hub to control the lights. While the hue remote has more options for colors, etc, the Lutron remotes seem to be a little more failproof, and can be mounted on the wall in standard faceplates. In fact, I think you can use the Pico wallplate bracket to give it the built-in look. Here is a link to that product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRAFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This seems like the best solution for now, and it is still completely customizeable/reworkable, unlike wired switches or other combos.
The only thing that I don't like about the Lutron Connected remotes is that a single tap of the "on" button doesn't bring them back to their previously dimmed level, it turns them on full blast. Of course, you can just use the dim up and down buttons, but I got used to Lutron's Maestro switches where a single tap would bring the lights up to the previous level and a double tap would bring them on full. I did a little searching and couldn't find whether this was possible with the connected remote.
Anyone have a solution or workaround for that?
Thanks again everyone!
Edit: grammar
Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.
120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire
..................................coil.................................................................
......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......
Some more info on fireplace wiring.
There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.
My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:
In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
Beware, there's a caveat:
Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.
I totally get it. Personally, as long as things don't get out of balance I try not to fret about screen time too much.
If you're really concerned I'd recommend getting a outlet timer. Say that the new rule is that the TV needs to go to sleep and can't wake up until noon or something. Say that we're making this decision together to make sure our minds and bodies grow and are healthy.
Then provide other things that he can use to entertain himself. Building sets, crafts, books, etc. He'll definitely find something when left to it. Remember how entertaining sticks were when left with nothing else? He'll adapt.
Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?
I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.
This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.
the beauty of the z-wave light switches is that if somebody turns off the light by hand, you can always switch it back on with automation. so you'll always be able to control the hues from automation app.
[these ge switches](GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KEO3xbHRNDQBB)
another reason i went with z-wave switches is that i can mix and match my bulb types. some fixtures can be plain led bulbs and still have on/off or dimming capability via the switch.
the velcro solution is a neat one and i'd probably end up doing just that if i was in an apt or unwilling to spend extra money.
I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.
One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.
I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.
This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.
This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284077&amp;sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284145&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284177&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=echo
>
There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."
I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:
Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.
Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.
WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.
Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.
Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.
Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.
You will need two things primarily.
One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.
Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.
edit: words and stuff
Yes, you need a smart bulb for every bulb in the fixture.
If you have a neutral in the switchbox (IEC code in America since 2011), you can add a smart switch. Z-Wave, Zigbee smart switches require a hub. Kasa makes a Wifi smart switch as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536589791&amp;sr=1-1&amp;refinements=p_n_amazon_certified%3A16741513011
Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.
Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!
This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...
Alexa/Google Home are compatible with the bridge, not the bulbs, meaning any bulb that works with the bridge works with them. When Ikea advertises compatibility they mean for their bridge, so don't use that as a guide.
Hue bulbs are built on a standard called ZigBee Light Link (ZLL), so are the Ikea bulbs. As long as you buy bulbs that faithfully implement the standard you should be okay (Ikea bulbs might need a firmware update from their bridge to do this). If the bulb supports dimming/color temperature via ZLL then the Hue Bridge will be able to control them, and by extension Google Home.
All this said, if you're doing your whole house, have you considered smarthome light switches? Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUCZA1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510413289&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=zwave+dimmer .
They work just like a normal light switch you can press to turn on/off/dim but add a SmartThings/Wink hub and you can control them via Google Home/Alexa and have all the automated routines/etc you get via Hue. For multi-bulb fixtures I use those switches, plus Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs, which change colour temperature as they dim. The result is full smart home control, good colour temperatures, regular wall switches so I don't have to use my voice all the time, and I can buy cheap non-smart bulbs.
Also, be aware that one Hue bridge is limited to 50 bulbs and 7 dimmer switches. That's the other reason I went for wall switches, I would need multiple bridges and then I couldn't have one button to turn off the whole house.
Caseta makes a great product, I use them everywhere - both the smart dimmers, and switches, and also use their non-smart motion sensing switches.
Having said that, you can't use voltage switches with smart bulbs!
At least not the current generation, and since they need to maintain state non likely in the future unless the add non-volatile storage and that will get expensive.
You need to use a "virtual switch" of some type, one that basically sends data commands to the bulbs like your phone does. I have about 30 smart bulbs in my place and so believe me it's a sore spot.
The good news for you is that since you have Hue bulbs (too expensive for the number I wanted), you can use the Hue Dimmer Switch which is designed just for this purpose:
No wiring needed, just paste it to a wall somewhere and connect to your hue hub.
I use a combination of the Brilliant Switch and the SmartThings controller to kind of do the same things, but my bulbs are Tuya which doesn't have an integration yet, so it's a kludgy solution.
Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535840828&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.
Might be able to install something like this and use it with any fan. http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ and use it with smart things. If you have a fan with infrared control you could hook it up to logitech harmony, then to smart things, then to alexa.
Actually, you can edit comments and posts, but not post links and titles.
If you are on reddit desktop, edit your comment with your link, select your link, press crtl x to cut, highlight the rest of your comment text, and then press CTRL K. Then ctrl v to paste your link.
That will allow you to embed the link into text like this.
On desktop I recommend using old.reddit.com with a Google extension called reddit enhancement suite. Better browsing experience imo.
On mobile, I recommend using the app relay for reddit.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1W-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Then you can have a remote! And if you care, the Lutron Caseta Bridge will allow you to control it with your phone, and it also integrates nicely with Home Assistant, if you want to go that route (look it up!). Otherwise, the dimmer and remote will work by themselves.
P.S. ♥️
Just wifi does not mean it is or would be compatible with Alexa at all.. Do you have a hub such as Smart Things or Wink? If so, you're at least on the right track.. you would need this product, which is very hard to get your hands on. This isn't compatible with Alexa just yet, but should be on the road map.
Aside from that, you can wire up two switches, like GE Zwave Fan Control, Lutron, Leviton Fan Control, ect. for Light and Fan independently. These run to the hubs mentioned above and than can be found via Alexa. Sometimes the hub isn't needed, it really depends on your home setup and which switch you want, and the functions you're after. Either way, these are zwave devices, not wifi.
Thanks! The switch is a long ways from my hub. However, I have a kwikset deadbolt there and it seems to work just fine. I am hoping it will work.
Is this the switch?
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa / Google Home, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pPg5ybFJ9EEK7
I know that you said you're using WiFi bulbs, but I was in the same situation using zwave bulbs. If you have a hub, replace the bulbs with zwave bulbs and you can use this switch. It goes over top of your switch and is permanently screwed into the plate. You just leave your switch in the on position before you put the new switch over top of it. It has dimming controls also. Works pretty well for me.
Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/
I have a few of the 4 button Hue dimmers, which I love... there was a hack to use them with Smartthings, which is OK except I want to get away from any reliance on the cloud at all.
So, since you already have a Hue bridge, these buttons can be had for @ $25. Pair them with your Hue bridge, but don't assign them to any rooms/groups/lights.
On your Pi, install node-red, and install the nodes for Homeassistant (node-red-contrib-home-assistant) and Hue(node-red-contrib-huemagic) from the palette. You can then make a flow that will allow you to do pretty much anything you want with the Hue dimmer buttons. I currently have one attached to a lamp with a Cree ZHA bulb that does on/off, dim up and down in 10% increments, long-press dim up sets to 100% brightness, long press dim down sets to 5%. I have another that controls a hacked Wifi smart plug I picked up at Walmart (Homie firmware) that works with MQTT.
Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.
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I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.
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The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.
I too would recommend nest, very easy to set up and monitor.
Additionally, I would recommend one of the following: a smart outlet, a smart light switch, or a few manual timers ([similar to this] (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537666467&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=circuit+timer)). Then plug in a desk lamp or floor lamp in various rooms and set them to turn on/off at various times. Will simulate someone being at home.
Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Hgrope 5W LED Grow Light Desk Lamp Clamp Flexible Neck for Hydroponic and Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVKWZH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZEaBbZSW8ASJ
this last one isn't the exact red/blue lights i have but it looks better than mine hahaha
What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.
Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch
Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.
Is there already existing power wiring for a z-wave switch? If not, you might need to wallmount a battery operated MiniMote or something like that.
If you're not stuck on Z-Wave you might want to look at Lutron's dimmers with their Pico Remote which can be mounted in a low voltage single gang old work bracket and covered with a decora plate for a nice looking wireless install. Same with their connected bulb remote which I'm using for a couple of Cree Connected bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=86N3WGD52NQ4GTPN2MDD
You'll find the single gang bracket for the Pico Remote in the related items.
Edit: I realize there are a few Z-Wave battery operated buttons, however if you want something that looks more like a lighting controller, something geared more towards a high WAF, I think the Lutron products are your best bet.
Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.
They do. There are two versions, a ZigBee and Clear Connect. The ZigBee one works with Hue. I would love it if the ZigBee version would show up in the Hue app or HomeKit.
> I want Hue to support an affordable small remote like the Lutron pico.
Assuming you would like to have a nice, neutral and clean spirit to build into whatever you like (ie, everclear style); here’s my advice.
If you try all this, pm me back and let me know how it went or if you had any problems.
Timer — https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1CF5S5I0380KI&amp;keywords=timer+switch&amp;qid=1566317740&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=timer+electric%2Caps%2C-1&amp;sr=8-16
I know this isn't exactly the response you were looking for but there are decora style hue switches. Technically they are remotes but you can hardwire your lights to always be on and install the remotes as decora switches. My current system consists of 27 hue bulbs controlled by 12 of these remotes/switches and it works great. Links and documentation below.
Remotes
Wallplate Brackets
Documentation:
What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.
Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.
Z-wave switches will do what you want and are compatible with Smartthings. I have a few GE dimmers but they also make non-dimming switches. You can get them for about $35, sometimes less.
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles and Zwave Repeater Range Extender, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_shK0AbC9YFRW8
Can’t speak to how well they control fans or how they work in the same setup as the Lutron Casetta.
So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).
Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.
Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.
Here is the
configuration.yaml
andui-lovelace.yaml
files on Github.The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:
I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a
picture-elements
card mostly utilizingimage
and itsstate_image
. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever withstyle: "top":50% "left":50%
. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that thestyle
was being set on. I would then manually adjust thetop
andleft
percentages until I was satisfied. I would then updateui-lovelace.yaml
to include the new values and double check them in the browser.For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
Here are a couple videos of it in action:
Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about
If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.
The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5
If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V
As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.
Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.
New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N
Honestly if all you are wanting is the lights to turn on when someone walks in the room you may be better off not going with a smart solution. You can do what you want with Hue bulbs.
There are also a number of bulbs with motion sensors built in. I've never used one personally, so I'd do more research to see how it knows when to turn off.
https://top10perfect.com/top-best-motion-sensor-light-bulbs-reviews/
But your best and cheapest solution might be this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486211121&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=vacancy+sensor+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31E-2BSEFmL&amp;ref=plSrch
I know you said you were worried about messing with wiring, but honestly in most homes (I'm assuming you are in America, excuse my assumption if you are not) to change out a switch you literally turn off the breaker that switch is on, unscrew the cover, take out two more screws that hold the switch against the wall and then there are two wires going to the switch. Take those out and put them in the new switch and reverse the process. It is insanity simple in most cases.
Anyways, hope that's helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.
There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).
Here is the route I'd go down. It's gonna be a bit complex though, but almost all home automation stuff is complex at this point.
Glossed over a metric shit-ton of detail, but like I said.... this whole "home automation" space is still pretty chaotic and complex. If you are in the apple ecosystem and have an appletv, you can also do a similar thing with HomeKit, HomeBridge and MQTT.
Your other alternative is to simply buy a damn dimmer switch from Phillips Hue that works with their light bulbs and call it a day. They are a very high quality dimmer, honestly.
Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1
I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.
So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.
https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ
Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479876032&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=timer+plug
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479876060&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=GE+zwave+outlet
TP-Link has a good price on their wifi switches. These work with Alexa via the Kasa plugin but do not connect to any hubs that I'm aware of. I had a good experience with their Smart Plugs until I went 100% Z-Wave for hub compatibility. Either way, these are a decent price. Currently at $39.99 and Amazon even has a $5 coupon to reduce the price futher.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS200-Smart-Wi-Fi-Switch/dp/B01EZV35QU
Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.
In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?
GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.
I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.
One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.
USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Edit: formatting
The best I've been able to find is the Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Multi-Sensor (DSB05-ZWUS). Note: not the newer models, for which the motion sensor doesn't work outdoor. You'll also need a zwave switch to control the lights (I use a GE 12724).
With a zwave dimmer switch, a zwave motion sensor, and a normal outdoor light fixture, I've set mine up to turn on the lights at 30% brightness at sunset, and off at sunrise. When motion is detected and the lights are already on, I have the brightness increase to 100% for 10 minutes, then back to 30%.
The Aeon sensor is definitely not ideal. I looked far and wide for a better outdoor motion sensor but wasn't able to find one. Others have suggested using a traditional outdoor light that has a motion sensor built in and detect the load increase to trigger an event. I decided not to go that route.
Assuming you have a neutral in the gangbox that houses the two switches for each fan, I would recommend the following:
Use the pull cords to keep the light switch in the on position, and the fan speed at maximum. After that, you can control the light and fan exclusive using the new switches, the Wink app, or GH/Alexa.
I am not an electrician but just went through the same challenge and found a solution. I have been swapping out the dimmer switches in my house (built in 1959) for new smart switches. I realized that there are some switches that do not require a neutral wire.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBT2DbJ69HVY7
Maybe an electrician on here can explain this better, but these switches basically leave a trickle of power when turned off to keep the switch working.
Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:
TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.
If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.
It's hard to say but I'd suggest at least 3x a week if not daily, anywhere from 25-50%...it's more to make sure the water stays clean for the one with fin rot than anything. I wouldn't expect the bloom to last more than a few days. You can also turn the lights off for a day or two and see if it helps.
A plug-in timer would be something similar to this (I just randomly pulled this off Amazon so am not endorsing this product, just using as an example). I get them from Walmart/Target, usually found where the extension cords and power strips are kept.
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.
I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.
However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.
I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.
Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542927191&amp;sr=8-37&amp;keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet
Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.
Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.
If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.
Check out TP link smart switches
and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs
Hope this helps!
(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)
I'm technically savvy but more on the software side than the hardware side. I was geared up to do it myself until I started reading about 3-phase light switches (when you have more than one switch that controls a set of lights) and then it started to go over my head with load, line, neutral, etc...I figured: "Hey, I don't wanna burn my house down. Let's leave this to the pros."
I've done a ton of research but there is so much information out there that the more you look the less you know. I was looking at the GE 12724 but I'm open to recommendations as well.
I do know I'll be using the Samsung SmartThings hub for the brains of the whole thing. I'll likely tie in a Logitech Harmony hub in there too along with a Google Home for voice activation.
Thanks!
Hopefully it works, but if you have this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482302888&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=digital+timer hack it and get a cheap-o timer locally for your lights. Good luck, homie!
z-wave.
You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414373746&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q
but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414373786&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=z-wave+outlet
So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well
Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958038&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
You can also purchase them with remotes for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.
Lutron caseta work great. worth the money
For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.
Yes, thats possible.
Basically, you're setting up a rule in Smartthings under the "Smart Lights" smartapp that says, turn on <GE switch> when motion is detected with <motion sensor>.
Alternatively, I would recommend using Lutron motion sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC). It's just cheaper and does the same thing.
While I do have plenty of GE zwave switches and Hue bulbs throughout my house, I have those Lutron motion switch in my garage, pantry, laundry room, bathrooms, etc.. I dont need those rooms to be smart--just need to turn on when motion is detected.
edit: missed the part that said the switch is inside the house. The first option is best for your use case.
I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.
As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website
The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.
Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box
Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:
These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.
Lutron also sells a plug-in lamp dimmer. I have one and it's great (and yes, it has a Pico):
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-P-PKG1P-WH/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519663870&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta+plug-in
(If you want HomeKit control, you would also need to buy a Lutron Caseta smart bridge if you do not already have one.)
I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:
The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you so much for your reply! I'm potentially installing totally new light switches and I thought I read somewhere that the Phillips Hue switches aren't hardwired or something like that. Any idea what the ideal "hard-wired" light switch would be? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512064629&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=smart+light+switch
I don't actually know anything about electric wiring so I'm not 100% sure what hard wired means.
I had the same worry, so I got these which are pretty idiot-proof. You just
spin the center wheel to the current time,
push in the little black tabs around the wheel for the spaces of time you want the light to be on (in 30 min increments),
plug in your lamp and make sure the lamp is turned to the "on" setting and
make sure the switch on the side of the timer is clicked down to the little clock symbol.
It's been pretty reliable, though is always a few minutes off (about 3 for me) which I don't mind. I may get a fancier one later, but this one has done exactly what I need it too, plus I have a backup in case I decide to get crazy with any other lights in the house. Good luck!
Sure! Here is a dual bar light type and a circle type. Here's also a more low profile type you can clamp to the shelf above: top down light.. With any of these, for ease of use I recommend getting an outlet timer, takes a lot of the hassle/worry out of making sure your babies get enough sun: outlet timer. Hope this helps!
I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).
If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation
Buy these three things below to get you through the winter (or all year)! I've used these for a few months now on a 16-hour timer and all my cacti and succulents have thrived.
You could quickly and easily install these on your shelves. The only concern I would have is the angle of the shelves. The sides of the plants on the back of the shelves would get more direct light, so just be sure to rotate your plants every week.
p..s that is a great looking setup!
Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).
For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR
The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE
And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8
You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.
Hope that helps!
The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:
Your wall switch should definitely still control it if you turn it off and on again. Personally, That light is stupid though and you are better off with a regular light and changing out the actual switch for something like this. I know you said it was a mistake but if you are still in the return phase i would definitely return for a normal light and get the switch i recommended. That way you can app control or control it like usual. The only thing about the switches is you NEED a neutral in the box.
Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM
If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.
This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.
This for the fan control.
If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.
Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.