Reddit mentions of SF Cable RJ45 Cat5e Junction Box, Punch Down Type

I found one that shows the inside: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

That makes a lot more sense now, thanks.

Scotchloks! Yes, that would be savage... is this the kind of splice block you mean? https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

>RJ-45 coupler

I actually meant one of these

I'm not using pre-formed cables, I'll be crimping the end myself, but for joining the two cables I was evaluating options. Right now I see options:

- using tape

- these

- RJ-45 coupler + 2 rj45 connectors

- using a keystone jack + rj45 connector

​

Thanks for the pointers!

While this method is probably preferable to using wire nuts, they do make inline splice adapters for cat5. Although the best solution is just to pull a new cable without any splices.

unfortunately not able to run a new line otherwise I would. Have you ever used one of these?

Other possible alternatives:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI

https://www.amazon.com/MANHATTAN-Modular-Inline-Coupler-504768/dp/B002HMTSK2

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

I'm surprised the Cat 6 one (the first one) is the least expensive, of course that would also work for Cat5/5E.

Ethernet cable should not be cut or spliced in any casual way. Definitely do not solder it. You need to maintain the proper twisting of the pairs and if you just unravel some of the cable to splice it yourself you will ruin the twisting and therefore risk reducing the capacity of the cable.

The "right" way to do this is probably to re-run the whole cable. But you can buy a CAT5e junction box to help you splice the cable properly. (Watch a Youtube video if you are not sure how to do it, and make sure you match up the pairs properly. It is very easy but there is a proper method.) If you can find a short section of in-wall-rated CAT5e cable then you can run it up another 4 feet and terminate in a keystone jack again (you could reuse the one you have). If possible try to keep the junction box accessible behind the current hole (put a blank cover plate over it) so you can access it in the future if need be.

The other (cheap) thing you could do is just buy an ethernet cable and thread it down the wall yourself and just plug one end into the keystone jack.

Cat5e or Cat6 junction box, whichever is appropriate for your cable.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Cat5e-Junction-Punch/dp/B0059DRC3G

I've had those go bad inside the wall. No thanks.

If it's permanent, it gets punched down.

CMR is referred to as Riser cable, it's specifically designed to go between floors in large buildings, has some fire suppressant properties but not much more (main focus is to stop fires from spreading between floors in riser spaces - there's more to it but I'll be brief).

Riser cable is typically solid, since it's purpose is to be installed to go between floors, then jacked on either end, with common grade stranded cable to run to a switch or some equipment; therefore the riser cable is tied down between the floors, and doesn't move a lot, so it doesn't need the mobility of stranded cabling. Stranded can be bent and flexed much more before breaking the end-to-end connection. Unfortunately because of the solid cable, it's not going to be very resistant to being broken, and it's likely you sheered a full connection off. There are 8 in the cable, so 1 of 8 being non-functional, you might lose gigabit capaiblity, the ability to send, or the ability to receive, depending on which specific wire inside the cable is broken. IMO, from the symptom of having a connection but no internet, would mean your tx wires are severed, or compromised. your PC cannot successfully send a request to the rest of the network, so the network does not know to reply; on the same token, your PC is getting a carrier from the RX lines (from the network to your PC), so it "sees" the connection is there.

The only way to be sure is to test the cable and verify, if you don't have a tester, you can maybe use a multi-meter, but it gets tricky if you don't have a helper (unless you can bring the two ends together).

So you have two options:

1. Re-run the entire cable. It's cleaner, neater, provides the highest quality connection and longevity of the link without issues. I would probably go this route if you have the cable, then use the length for two smaller runs, if possible.
   
   
2. patch it together. you have essentially two options for this: if you're a good cabler, and you have the smallest amount of slack, you can get a junction box, and punch down the two sides. along the same lines, if you're not great at punchdowns, you can crimp the two ends and use a coupler. same idea. Your other option is to get two jacks (keystone or otherwise), punch down both sides, which will shorten each cable slightly, then use a very small patch cable to bridge the two connections; this is the only option if there's no slack and you're intent on repairing rather than replacing.
   
   Links for the weary:
   
   Junction: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G
   
   Coupler: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y
   
   Jacks: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6
   
   Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Cybertech-Cat5e-RJ-45-Ethernet-Connectors/dp/B00LG6DQUI
   
   those are just to get you started, there's lots of manufacturers that follow the specifications (TIA/EIA 568/569), so by no means do you have to buy what I've linked; I just want you to have an idea of what you're looking for. I don't necessarily endorse one brand or manufacturer over another for this, I actually don't know any of the brands I linked, so buyer beware, as usual.
   
   Side note: Riser should not be used for Plenum space (anything relating to HVAC); doing so can create toxic smoke that's vented throughout the building in the event of a fire. It also violates fire code, so please be careful where you use Riser cable. in wall, along baseboards, etc, is fine. Anything to do with HAVC, dropped ceilings, through vents... needs to be plenum grade.

IME, 66 blocks are considered CAT3 termination points only suitable for voice-grade applications (POTS, extending digital circuits like T1s to another closet, xDSL, etc.). The physical distance of the separation of the pins and the combs on a 66 makes for a really shitty ethernet signal because it totally ruins the twisted-pair's self shielding properties and becomes more like an antenna. You could probably do it at very short distances in a pinch, but you shouldn't depend on this being a go-to thing.

If you're talking about extending ethernet from one end of the building to the other with a 66 block in the middle because there's no home-run, there are other ways.

Try something like this which is CAT5e rated. The 110-style termination blocks keep the pairs as twisted up as possible up to their termination points. That's the main problem you need to solve with ethernet terminations.

> For longevity, you would suggest crimping for each cable into a 8P8C and use a coupler? Not using some punch down method?

Use a punchdown coupler. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Cat5e-Junction-Punch/dp/B0059DRC3G

I would reowk the jack using SF Cable RJ45 Cat5e Junction Box, Punch Down Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059DRC3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1LzVDb5AXSF4Z and reuse the plate so the cable is hidden.