Reddit mentions: The best electric boxes, conduit & fittings

Hah, that's cool. I'd be tempted to build a plex box but because I support and install a lot of synology it makes more sense to put one of those in at home.

Talk to your local friends and see if you can find a vaguely trustworthy computer shop. You should be able to rough-in all of the lines and have them terminate and configure if you don't feel up to it.

Just run Cat6, it's great for gigabit, fine for 10gig-e up to ~50m and anyway the vast majority of stuff > 1gbit is on fiber right now. If you think you'll want to run more later just include a string to fish with when you pull your current cable.

Running network is actually pretty easy, you usually punch down on either side of a long run and use patch cables for everything else. Punch blocks have the layout printed right on them so you don't even need to look up a spec.

Parts you need

• 24-port patch panel. May need a second smaller one if you're also doing POTS lines.
  
• 8U wall-mount rack adjust for needed spaces and size. Once that go on shelves work fine too. I like the ones that hinge open for working on but they're pricey.
  
• 24-port gigabit switch rackmount handy dandy. brand doesn't matter a lot since it's unmanaged, but rackmount is lovely.
  
• Low voltage gang boxes much easier to deal with than a full electric box.
  
• Wall plates - lots of options here. dual RJ-45 allows you to use both runs as network or phone. Combo network/coax is great for bedrooms and you can leave one network drop as a "spare". Keystone is the way to go for more complex stuff.
  
• 1ft Cat-6 x whatever. Pick your favorite colors, adjust length per your design specs. Way easier than making your own!
  
• UPS for devices that need it
  
• Surge protector for stuff that isn't on the UPS
  
• Network router w/ wifi + possibly additional access points
  
• Longer ethernet patches to run from the wall to devices
  
  I like Monoprice for a lot of stuff but not everything.
  
  

  Tools you need
  

  
  

• Snips / knife to cut bulk Ethernet and strip insulator
  
• A punch-down tool for the patch panels
  
• Zip-ties + velcro strips for various attaching of things to other things
  
• Phillips #1 & #2, Standard #1 for wall plates and rack mount
  
• Fishing rod, tape, string, and other tools to get wire in wall
  
• Drill, drywall saw, that sort of thing
  
• Beer

are you planning planning? or is the house already started and you've already got bids from your EC for the work?

if you're planning planning, i would suggest considering :

1. in-ceiling speakers for whole-house audio. you can get rough-in rings and just do the wiring, and if you want the speakers later it will save you a fortune in time. especially if you're in a two story dwelling. don't forget volume controls.
   
2. recessed ceiling lights.
   
3. cabinet lights for your kitchen / laundry.
   
4. anticipate more camera drops - bring up twice the runs to the attic you think you'll need. alternately, if you're not in a hot climate, anticipate a switch in the attic instead of a ton of cat6 runs back to your central data cabinet.
   
5. did i mention a central data cabinet? plan on power outlets in that cabinet, for routers / modems.
   
6. are you building in for TV's? pull 3/4" smurf from a recessed box to the data cabinet. this will future-proof your tv mount locations.
   
7. don't forget recessed power / media plates for your tvs. your smurf tubing will feed from the low voltage side to your media cabinet.
   
8. more data drops in the house! cat6 can become anything you need it to, with baluns. so in addition to being a plane data connection, a cat6 cable can replace most any other cable you didn't know you were going to need.
   
9. for your security pre-wire, make them use 18 gauge stranded wire instead of 22 gauge solid. it's much more durable.
   
10. add motions in your living room, family room, hallways, basement, stairwells. they're cheap and can be used for home automation later.
    
11. detached garage? get a 1" conduit run put in for future data.
    
12. basement? attic? get a 1" conduit run put in going from basement to attic for future data.
    
13. pre-wire your own cable (as in TV cable), providing your own demarcation box on the outside of your house, and do not let any rat-bastard cable guys or satellite guys touch your home wiring.
    
14. your cable pre-wiring should not have a single splitter anywhere. it should be a single run from your demarcation box to your data cabinet, and then a multi-point amplifier, and then direct runs to each outlet.
    
    ​
    
    as rossg876 said, it's useful to be able re-pull your data wires in the future. but i'll explain a bit more detailed :
    
    
15. anywhere you know will be a data use point (mounted TV, dedicated computer desk, etc) run a 3/4" (minimum) smurf tube. this will let you upgrade or add cables with ease.
    
16. anywhere that is a simple cat6 run, make sure the contractor does not staple the cable in the wall. also, request that they drill 1/2" holes for all your stud penetrations. this will at least give you a hope of being able to replace the wiring if needed.
    
    ​
    
    > My question is, what kind of cameras/nvr should I be looking for.
    
    
17. don't bother with cameras under 2mp
    
18. don't bother with cameras that claim digital WDR. you need true WDR, 120db.
    
19. only get cameras that support ONVIF.
    
20. keep your cameras & recorder on a different switch than the rest of your equipment.
    
    i've got an electrical contractor that swears up and down about Lorex.
    
    they've got a good price point, and look great. but you can't upgrade the recorders as much as i need for my commercial applications. would probably be a non-issue for residential.
    
    i've had good luck with Hikvision, although the DVR controls are garbage compared to a computer-based recorder. but then again, computer-based recorders are $$$.

> CAT 6 "ends" (jacks? plugs?)

In ITU nomenclature, the male end of a cable is a plug, and the female receptacle in the wall is a jack.

> We just purchased a new house and it has 3 runs of CAT 6 cable, but no "ends." I only need 6 ends, where is the best place to order them from?

Slow down. You need to determine what type of cable you have in your house first. 95% it will be solid-core cable. Solid-core can be identified from the cut end as each of the eight wires will be a single copper wire. Solid-core will also be stiffer, and tend to hold a bend.

If you have stranded-core, things change and you do need to spend a bit more on tools.

If you have solid-core (which you should, and is better in this case) you need to terminate to female jacks. Jacks can be found in any home-improvement store, as well as online. Keystone-style jacks are the most convenient especially for new installers. If you're in the US you want something like this.

If you also need to mount these in the wall, you want to ad a low-voltage, old-work box (which are open in the back and usually black or orange) and a keystone face-plate. All of these are available in multi-gang, and multiple ports-per-gang, as well as decora-style if you're nitpicky like me.

For just a few drops, I would look at your local big-box home improvement store first. They will be a little more expensive per-drop, but probably cheaper for the entire project. They will also accept returns when you buy the wrong part and can help you find compatible products.

> Also, are the ends tricky to install or could a person with no experience figure it out pretty easily?

You can do it yourself pretty easily. The jacks should come with instructions and a small plastic tool. If you have trouble, there are dozens of posts in this sub with advice. Also, you probably know someone who can help you out for the cost of a 6-pack. Most IT professionals can do this.

When punching down (connecting the cable to the jack) there will be two different "orders" you can put the individual wires in. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same. However, in the US, order "B" is the most common.

I made this Pi controlled irrigation system. The goal was to make it as user friendly as possible. It is not finished yet. I had to get a working proto going as soon as possible because I moved to a different state and my parents are selling this house. Not to mention fall semester starts on Monday. I plan on working on this as much as possible on my free time and then make a guide and share my code with everyone so others can benefit from my work. If you want my current code and want to improve on it please PM me. Also, I would love it if you shared your version with me as I will implement it into my code. I want to share my best with everyone.

P.S. I did not document my code at all. I mainly hard coded all of this in the past few days since I was limited on time. I am also a noob on Kivy and this is my first big Pi project.

Edit: Below are the hardware

Landzo 7 inch touch panel - 40.88

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B - 39.99

32 GB flash - 15.69

DS3231 RTC Clock Module - 5.99

4 channel relay - 6.99

Uxcell enclosure - 9.99

M2.5 hex spacer screws - 9.98

Modified internal panel - 8.30

Total: 137.81

PS. Definitely could be cheaper. For me it sure was because I had some of the parts already available that came in a some sort of kit.

I also have a sit / stand desk but have my computer on a separate table to the side of it. Here's what i did!


My desk is ikea, and has a mesh cable management net mounted to the bottom. I found that the best thing to do was mount a big power strip to the bottom of the desk, and plug in all my accessories there. Then i only have the one power strip cable coming down from the desk underside, and goes down along the back of the table leg and plugs into my UPS that's on the floor. Then I mount all of the cables to the underside of the table with these guys (https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Adhesive-Management-Holder/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=lp_11042051_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598131&sr=1-15) . So I have a power strip next to the net, all the cables being plugged into the strip are being hidden by the net, but since the cables are mostly fastened to the underside, the net doesn't sag and stays mostly out of sight.


Since my computer is on a side table i use really long cables, and used one of these to go from the inside of the cable net to the back of the computer (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Split-Tubing-Cover-Marine/dp/B00J7SAHTK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598333&sr=1-3&keywords=plastic+cable+sleeve). There are more modern looking ones, i just happened to like the "industrial" look of this one, if you could call it that...

​

Hope that helps! I know for me, once i got started seriously trying to take care of the cable situation, all the ideas on how to make it better just come to you as you are doing it. Figuring out where to start is often the hard part :D

I'd suggest keeping the face plates and keystones the same brand. I used 2 different brands and they didn't fit just right, granted the keystone idea is pretty standardized, it still wasn't perfect... The other part you'll want to grab is something to help hold the outlet on the wall: https://smile.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI

When it comes to pulling the cable, if you want to do the cables the way a pro would, look at buying a spool or CAT6 in the walls: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103 and terminate it with a real CAT6 punch down jack: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5384. Then use the cables you linked to go from the wall to router/computer/device. Watch some YouTube videos and take your time and you shouldn't have a hard time terminating the cables. With network cables there is solid and stranded, solid is for cable that isn't going to move (like in the walls). While stranded is for the areas that need to be more flexible, like near a computer where it might be moved occasionally.

Like everyone else, 2 wires is a good call.

For the "cabinet" try to go more open, like a small shelf you can sit stuff on, especially when you are concerned about heat and/or air flow, why not just open it up?

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998124&sr=8-3&keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate

You would mount them to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998033&sr=8-2&keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

I did the Vista 20P option with wired 6160 keypad. Programming was easy enough - especially if you use the work book that's part of the installation guide to plan out your system before you go pressing keys. Love the EVL4 and am considering paying for their monitoring service. The EyesOn app works with my Apple watch too - which was an unexpected bonus. I'm 6 weeks out from the installation and am very happy with it. I replaced a Vista 15 panel with wired sensors with the 20p that I got off of amazon.ca for $70 Canadian! I was able to keep all of my sensors - essentially plug and play!

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

I ended up building a relay-controlled outlet that I plug an aqualifter in to, and put it all in a project box. The parts including a 5-pack of float switches cost me around 20 bucks total (mostly on amazon). I used this relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00843IV06), a flyback diode I had on hand, this project box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENLY), a pair of generic float switches, an outlet adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GN61W48) and a couple parts I had on-hand (generic power cord [just cut the end off], and 12v power supply [I broke the brick and fit the parts in the project box, then split the AC in to power both the 12v transformer and passthrough the relay to power the outlet).


I used two float switches at two different heights. The bottom is for the actual water level, and I set the top one just below the baffle height in the return section of my sump - if it ever lifts, it cuts power to the pump.


I also have this plugged in to a digital timer with 8 adjustable timer periods as a failsafe. I measured my evaporation in one day and found I lost roughly 1 gallon in 24 hours. I allow the ATO to run for 5 minutes at each of 3/6/9/12 am/pm for a total of 40 minutes per day possible, which is roughly 2 gallons per day maximum.


Google is your friend for wiring the relay. No soldering required since I bought the relay with a socket. Fitting everything in the project box was a little tight, but it worked out. I mounted it to the side of my sump with 3m-backed zip tie mounts (like this - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cable-2-way-Adhesive-CTB1X1BGA-C/dp/B00745TPY6) - the wires on the float switches were not long enough to have it further from the tank.


Good luck! It was a fun project and should hold me over until I can convince myself to buy a tunze osmolator (maybe next year).


Edit - overall, the project cost me about 35 bucks, plus the cost of a pump, since I had some parts on-hand already.

This looks like an awesome idea! This also looks like quite the electrical fire hazard.

I'd suggest a sturdier enclosure like THIS. You could route some receptacle sized holes in it and get either bolts or self-tapping plastic screws to secure them.

A lot of the other parts like the Pi and your usb power supply could be mounted with VHB Tape. That stuff is amazing.

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

• Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs
  
  
• Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.
  
  
  
• Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.
  
  
  
• Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.
  
  
  
  Some Links
  
  
• http://studs.m88play.com/wall-studs-too-far-apart-for-tv-mount/
  
  
• http://www.displays2go.com/Article/Common-Mistakes-When-Mounting-TV-10
  
  

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

Yep. Although the smaller solar panel I linked to comes with a controller (a bit simpler one), I used these. It looks like maybe amazon doesn’t carry them anymore so if you want that one might try eBay. I’ve bought it as “Anself Solar charge controller” as well as “Docooler Solar charge controller” it’s just a 12v controller.


I actually have started using this one on my bigger setups because it has more info:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZZMDSQ

But they are all basically glorified switches that monitor the output of the panel and battery and connect them when the energy on the panel is high enough and disconnect when it’s lower so you’re not draining the battery.


The project box is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T990I0
With this backing plate inside to screw into to mount the timer and controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPE83U

Oh and if you want it to be water tight when you run cables through holes in the sides you’re gonna want something like these to go with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ03AUQ/
I’d imagine you could get a single one from an electric supply store if you didn’t want a set.

Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. homesecuritystore.com is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel: https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to buy...as prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

It looks like Masada is the company that installed the alarm system. That keypad is made by Honeywell. To be 100% sure what system it is you'll have to find the main panel. You'll be looking for a metal box like this.

The box is grey or beige and often has a lock on it. Often it will say Honeywell, Ademco or Vista on the outside. Open the box and look inside, there should be stickers on the inside door or even on some of the components. My guess is it's some model of Vista panel like a Vista-10SE, Vista 10, Vista 20, etc. When you find out what kind of panel it is, then look up the manual. For instance, the Vista 15 & Vista 20P.

Follow the instructions on the how to change codes. Easier said than done. To change a code a code, you have to know the user number it was assigned to. Best example I have: assigned seating. You can only place 1 4-digit code in a user number just like when you're assigning seats, only one person per seat. If you put a code in a user number that already has a code, that old code is gone.

As long as you guys have only been using 1 code, you all may well be using the master code which is user 02. Just follow the instructions and then try out your old code and the new code. If the new code works and the old code doesn't, you're golden. Otherwise, I'm not sure what user number the code you've been using has been assigned to and don't know what the master code is.

Worst case scenario, you can call Masada and either have them help you. They might want to do a service call but their charge might be cheaper than the damage your former employees can cost you.

Good luck!

Are you sure you can't install the TV somewhere other than above the fireplace? I've seen situations where it is the only option but it's rare and most of the time another solution is possible. Even after all the work and expense to put a TV above the fireplace, it will be a hugely compromised solution. I'd rather have my TV on the floor, in front of a window or block a doorway than above a fireplace.

Do you own your home? You indicate you do but then you said apartment.

1. You will need to install a single gang power outlet. Don't try this yourself, get an electrician to do it. If you have a brick chimney, you will need to run a chase.
   
   
2. You will need to install a low voltage single gang HDMI port both behind the TV and wherever you are going to put your equipment.
   
   
3. I recommend going with a fixed mount. I got a double arm mount that can move all around and it didn't work very well. They can't handle odd stud placement, they stick out from the wall and they are less secure. The fixed mounts allow you to angle the TV down which is all you should need.

Get some of these and try doing PoE:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B0042ZKWBG

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-ZoneFlex-Unleashed-Dual-Band-9U1-R310-US02/dp/B01FV0OIJM

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFKSS0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F

The APs are special ones that have a software based antenna that improves range. They are the lower end (but newer) versions of this:

https://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/5077/64/

The enclosures is intended to make it safe to use them outdoors. The outdoor cable can be buried (although it should go below the frost line). The switch is designed to power the APs. If the cables are not long enough, you will need outdoor range extenders and a beefier switch that supports 802.3at to provide the additional power needed by the range extender. These would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repeater-Amplifier-Ethernet-TPE-E100/dp/B00SDFF6S0

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B07788WK5V

If you need to go even further than 200m, you could probably run your own dedicated low voltage DC powerlines alongside armored fiber cable and use media converters to convert from fiber to twisted pair. You would need a switch that supports SFP modules and to get a SFP transceiver for each end.

Search for outdoor weatherproof enclosure on Amazon, I was considering something like this (link) sometime ago, but never bought it.

My brother built me a waterproof box out of a plastic container for our T-Mobile cell phone repeater since we put it outside sometimes, but it's not for leaving out in like a torrential downpour, but for everyday weather it works great.

I like it. For the housing, you can get some basic project boxes to put the Pi0 and wires in for pretty cheap like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591GSBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BENLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487265102&sr=8-3&keywords=project+box

For the lights, you could use a long usb cord and cut the ends off because USB uses 4 wires for +, -, data+, and data- and you would have a wire housing 4 smaller wires that are easy to mess with and look nice
You could also put usb ports on the lights and pi and make the lights sort of plug and play.

Thank you flipflop. I haven't responded to replies yet but yours was very informative and I was your first upvote ^^.

To add:

Yes I'd probably be fine running an extension cord, but do I want to? No.

I'm looking at this from the perspective of installing a permanent electrical device in the home that could be there for the next 20+ years and to potentially new owners.

New codes even require range hoods to be permanently wired. A range hood is infinitely times simpler than a switch... it has a light bulb and a fan and that's it.

So Yeah I think I'm going to romex a receptical in, and get a home media enclosure to recess into the drywall.

Awesome I just finished mine last week. Already got a beer fermenting in the new ferm chamber.

For those asking it looks like the same project box I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSRIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found it to be way too small and tight in there. What were your thoughts?

If I build another one I want to build it in a box that would have the STC face and the outlet on the same panel and then be pretty deep for the STC. Similar to the boxes this guy uses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrdOpk10MkE

If it's directly the other side of the wall, you don't even need to do any wiring as long as you don't mind loosing the existing phone jack. Put in an old work low voltage box like /u/alias_enki said, but you don't need a full box for low voltage.

Loose the existing wall plate/jack from the wall, but leave the wiring in tact, and just push it through the wall out of the new opening. Mount it and put a blank cover on the old place and you're good to go.

Couple questions though; is it a DSL modem with a built in access point that you are trying to move? If not, then I assume you mean ethernet, not phone line.

If that's the case, I highly recommend getting a router and running ethernet to any desktop computer, game system, media player, or smart TV you have. You can buy a box (500 ft.) of Cat5e for around $50 plus a crimper and ends and do all the cabling yourself. It's really easy to do and there's plenty of guides on crimping ends onto ethernet.

You'll also need any 3-prong extension cord for the AC side of the driver. I just used one of these to make the AC cord connection, and it works nice and easy.

for the DC side connections, I like Wago 221 terminals, but you can use any wire terminal, or just solder the leads... that's a pretty simple connection.

If you don't want to build a frame, you can order a sheet of aluminum cut to size HERE, then just drill holes for mounting and hanging. It may run you an extra $30-40 over making a frame from angle aluminum, but it might save you some time and effort. (note: i'm not sure how rigid a big sheet of 1/8" aluminum would be, but I think it should hang flat).

I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mount-Patch-Panel-Bracket/dp/B001YHYVEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wall+mount+vertical+server+rack&qid=1570787721&sprefix=wall+mounted+vertical+ser&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-10-Pack-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=keystone+jack&qid=1570787805&sprefix=keyst&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+box&qid=1570787902&sprefix=low+voltage&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-6-Port-White/dp/B072BC45GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=keystone+wall+plate&qid=1570787950&sprefix=keystone&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-Ethernet-ethernet-Computer-Shielded/dp/B07QC4XM2P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft+shielded&qid=1570788039&sprefix=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft&sr=8-5#

I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck

This is the best investment I’ve made. I do a lot of electrical work and it helps me identify the right circuit every single time. It will save a lot of headaches for your project.

1 of these

https://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2206-Rockeater-Drywall-Saw/dp/B00004TBPV

You need 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMKYYPK/ref=psdc_11042041_t4_B00111AAZ2?th=1


You use these for any spot you need to cut a hole in the drywall


https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-WW-B-Standard-Metallic-Wallplate/dp/B00JTQZB3W/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868808&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=single+gang+blank+wallplat

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868644&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=retro+drywall+box

Now everything looks nice, remains accessible, and none of the drywall needs to be patched.

Remember to lay down a bit of plastic under the spot you cut the holes to save yourself some drywall cleanup later. Vacuums do NOT like drywall dust. Do not ruin your parents vacuum.

Good luck!

I would definitely recommend starting with a surface mounted electrical box to hide mist of the cabling and small power supplies. Once you have decent cable management and hide the holes and some smaller items I think you’d be pretty happy. It is a closet after all.


https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-JBH-4960-KO-Knockout-Hinged/dp/B005UPA0RS/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=electrical+box&qid=1550898571&s=gateway&sr=8-15

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Get a Sanus VMPL50-B1 mount. It is a fantastic mount and works great with that TV.

Source: I'm probably closing in on mounting 500 TVs now.

Edit: Get a couple of these and fish the wires down the wall (keep the stand as storage and decoration). Then cover them with these!

Lots of good comments. I'd recommend a couple low voltage boxes to secure the boxes you bought to the wall. Make sure you get old work boxes.

Great advice already in this thread.

A couple of things to add:

1. Low-Voltage rings for the keystone plates, like these (not endorsing this one) http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU
   
   
2. You want solid copper cable for your in-wall runs. It's next to impossible to punch down stranded cable. And buy appropriate RJ-45 connectors if you're using your cable to make patch cables - the connectors come in solid and stranded versions.
   
   Also, if you buy online, watch out for CCA cable (copper clad aluminum) - you do NOT want that.

CableGuard CG-1000XL Coax Demarcation Enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJWZVDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Usk-BbJCARRQ5

This is pretty standard, leaves plenty of room for everything. I'm assuming you already know how to do everything else.

I wouldn't bother with PVC unless you are going to make it big enough to pull new stuff through. If it's a short distance from cable box to where it comes in the house I would recommend Smurf tube or something.

Or better yet, if all the cables poke out of the house, mount the box on the hole or right above it.

buy some in-wall rated cat6 , a punch down tool, a keystone jack ,a wall plate and a fish tape and do something like this:

http://www.cableorganizer.com/learning-center/how-to/how-to-wire-keystone-jack.htm

pre-terminated "patch" cable isn't designed to be pulled through walls and doesn't meet "code" for in-wall wiring either but solid riser cable is designed to be pulled through to a location.

Don't try and go through the outside of the building, for that you need conduit and waterproof fittings and more expensive outdoor rated cable or it can short out or cause other issues

Interior walls are normally hollow and you can just pop a hole in the wall and install a "old-work" low voltage "box" like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJVAWDQXVY82WHGCETBK

there are tons of videos on youtube showing how to locate and drill and there are special "installer" drill bits that will drill inside of the wall and through the top and bottom plates so you can fish the wires through

If you're going vertical it's really easy to make 2 holes in the wall and run the cables straight down. Make the holes bug enough to accommodate a low voltage ring like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UEAJWU?cache=ec47d263416dfbe3dc65d464a2658473&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1414071127&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1(these can be had more cheaply at home depot). Put one of these behind your TV and one behind your components. There are a variety of trims which can go on this bracket which you'd be better off getting at an electrical supply to prevent there being a gaping hole in your wall.

I used these

Box - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPANU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Box Insert - https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBX-32916-PL-Plastic-Internal/dp/B005UPE83U/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005UPE83U&pd_rd_r=38ca7968-edbf-11e8-8842-7d002f82d6fa&pd_rd_w=A8lwS&pd_rd_wg=QT89F&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=JFVRZXED3FN2MWQ13E95&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JFVRZXED3FN2MWQ13E95

​

Works great. There are no punch outs or anything so I drilled my own holes and used these water proof strain reliefs. https://www.amazon.com/Lantee-Cable-Gland-Waterproof-Connector/dp/B07BGVV8N1/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542826797&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=waterproof+gland&psc=1 Just make sure your cables will fit through the gland nuts.

From someone who recently wired their house with Cat6A and ran a 25ft fiber drop...

I would use some LC keystones in a standard keystone plate for the walls. Run some ENT conduit for the actual lines wherever it needs to go and terminate it behind an old work low-voltage box. Drop your fiber through using fish tape, connect it up, and you're done. If this is just from one side of the wall to the other, you can skip the conduit.

Be sure to follow local, state and federal code. You'll need special plenum rated cable if this goes through any air returns or other "air handling space" and isn't inside metal conduit.

Personally, I'd actually advise against putting servers in a garage, unless yours is uncharacteristically clean.

Edit: added some links and additional clarity.

Ok, almost any 80mm computer fan will work (provided that it has a flat face to it):
http://www.amazon.com/KingWin-Long-Bearing-CF-08LB-Black/dp/B002YFSHPY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330687&sr=8-11&keywords=80mm+fan
http://www.amazon.com/Bgears-b-Blaster-80mm-Bearing-Extreme/dp/B0043GQC6S/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330791&sr=8-32&keywords=80mm+fan

Magnet suggestion:
http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Disc-N48/dp/B001KV38ES/ref=pd_sim_k_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=100B2PQECYWG45ZYYRMR

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591ESBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BSRIO/ref=pd_sim_indust_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B7JFAHDACTFVK2AZ15M
(Get the ES model, it's bigger, which means more room for your flask)

Switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPBRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPBRA&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Rheostat:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QFU9H4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009QFU9H4&linkCode=as2&tag=brewprof-20

Stirbar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ACNFDQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001ACNFDQ&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Power Supply: (Most people use an old cell phone charger, I used a usb cable, plugged into a modern phone charger)
http://www.amazon.com/PowerLine-90367-Universal-Power-Adapter/dp/B00CWR39TI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Toss in some super glue to hold it all together, a couple of nuts and bolts to mount everything with, and that should just about get you there.

Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.

I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/), just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.

It's a bit pricey, but this is an enclosure that you can put an access point into. The enclosure is made to be screwed into something (like a wall or ceiling) so it doesn't walk off, plus has the ability to be locked up with a padlock. You'll need to make sure your particular access point will fit in the enclosure.

/u/TouchMyWoody's comment is also applicable - set up MAC address filtering on the switch so that the only thing it will allow to connect is the access point. Be aware that this can be defeated by someone using a MAC address spoofer and is not foolproof. But then, very little is foolproof to someone determined to break it.

I was looking at the same issue recently, and this seemed to be the best fit for my needs: https://www.amazon.com/SOCKiTBOX-Weatherproof-Connection-Electrical-Transformers/dp/B018HHMBW2/

I didn't try it yet, as I ended up just modifying a standard covered plug enclosure to accommodate the wall wart my lights use, and the rest of the system was waterproof as-is.

Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up purchasing one myself. The price seemed fair and it looks like exactly what I was looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/SOCKiTBOX-Model-Weatherproof-Electrical-Large/dp/B018HHMBW2

These are great as well https://www.amazon.com/ATPWONZ-Waterproof-Junction-Outdoor-Electrical/dp/B01N5I73QI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=waterproof+power+connector&qid=1563477341&s=gateway&sr=8-4

It's not a rack but a panel in a closet where all the wires go back to. This is also where all the coax lines go to as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KIN0A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All the cable / networking equipment can be mounted in the panel.

P.S. I think I am just going to blow the budget and go with the US-16-150w. That also gives me lots of room to grow in the future and gives me the full Unified setup I want.

I put mine in an outdoor weather-resistant box, linked here. I had to return the small one because it was too small, but the large fits the power brick and the connector. I’ve had it like this all winter, through rain and snow, and it’s stays dry and is fine. I have no clue if this is even necessary, but I feel better knowing that the connection points stay dry

What would be the best way to run IEC power cables out of this enclosure while maintaining its weather seal? I'm thinking drilling a hole large enough to fit the IEC connectors through and installing some sort of rubber gasket, but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: the cables will be running to this temperature controller.

I ordered a Project box (ABS box) I don't have it all put together yet. I'm waiting on a few more switches to arrive. The box i ordered isn't exactly want i wanted but it was as close as i could get. If you have any ideas for enclosures let me know. Walmart carries a metal clipboard that is like a box also that i think would work good but idk.

Yup! I used this enclosure but I would recommend not using LED buttons with it because it creates a cable management nightmare on the inside. Normal buttons should be a lot easier; especially low profile clip in buttons opposed to the screw type. I would opt for getting an enclosure that's a bit bigger but I couldn't find anything that would work after looking for a while.

You can get circuit tracers that will do this. Plug one end into the outlet or remove the cover and put clips on the wires by the switch (sending unit) and then use the receiver to identify the breaker or outlets. I have one similar to this that works great.

As a tip, take the wall cover off and label the inside once you find out what does what/where. I’ve written the circuit number inside all of my plates as I upgrade to tamper resistant. In my basement and garage everything has a label maker number on the outside with the breaker number since those are the areas I’m most likely to trip while using power tools.

I had a similar situation for my in-laws camera I installed. I mounted the puck then used one of the cable straps to tie down the remaining wire that you have velcroed. Doesn’t look great but it works. I will prob eventually add something like this to hide the wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY224LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ite2CbN7F9QH3

Or this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJWZVDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pte2CbG77W7VC

Links:

TuBAR Cam Lock:
https://nationalpetroleum.net/?product=compx-tubar-gilbarco-crind-upper-door-lock

Note: you also need to buy a key from site, and tell them keyed diff. Key is like $5. Also I used the “cam” that came with the thumb turn lock on the box. Installed it on the TuBAR.

Box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UPA0RS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Note: I bought mine under the warehouse repackaged/used or whatever they call it. It’s brand new nothing wrong with it!

Stickers I scrounged up at work and found some conduit headed for the dumpsters 😂

Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=09GZVBHWHJ37VB90SY9Y ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.

Don't use drywall anchors or even a new work gang box. Look for low voltage mounting brackets, aka "mud ring"; here's an example:

iMBAPrice Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EEdXzbEE0RGCT

Invert these on the wall (put the face against the wall) and trace the inner rectangle. Then take a drywall saw and cut out the trace. Insert the ring, tighten the screws, put on the face plate, done.

I've done IT work in a field and office setting for years, and this is the best, cleanest way, and it's perfectly acceptable (at least here in TN).

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

• Tripp Lite 9U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure, 16.5" Deep, SRW9U
  
• TRENDnet 48-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P48C6
  
• Cisco SG300-52 Managed Switch
  
• D-Link 10-Port Gigabit PoE Switch DGS-1210-10P
  
• Apple Time Capsule (re-capped power supply, reversed and vented fan, WD Red drive)
  
• Sangoma PBX running FreePBX
  
• CyberPower PR1500LCDRT2U Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1350W
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• CyberPower RMCARD205 Remote Management Card
  
• CyberPower ENVIROSENSOR Enviromental Sensor
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Yellow (108109)
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Red (108107)
  
• 50M Multimode Duplex 10Gb Fiber Optic Cable (50/125) - LC to LC
  
• LC-LC 10Gb Multimode Duplex 50/125 Fiber Patch Cable, 1FT
  
• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP module, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 m, TEG-MGBSX
  
• Tripp Lite SRCAGENUTS Rack Square Hole Hardware Kit Screws, Washers
  
• Cable Matters Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 1 Foot
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 1.5 Feet - Red
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 3 Feet - Yellow
  
• NavePoint Cantilever Vented Shelf 1U Black 14" (350mm) deep
  
  Equipment not shown:
  
  
• Leviton 61110-BW6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, White
  
• Leviton 61110-BL6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, Blue
  
• Leviton 41085-MLR Quickport Duplex LC MM Fiber Optic Adapter
  
• Leviton 41091-3WN QuickPort Midsize Wallplate, Single Gang, 3-Port, White
  
• Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White
  
• Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black
  
• Brady PWM-PK-8 B-500 Matte Repositionable Vinyl Cloth Wire Markers
  
  The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
  
  Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
  
  edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.

You may want to look into one of these vs the Wago on your power line. Its waterproof and secures the line better. Don't want to get shocked or have an fire because line was accidentally tugged on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5I73QI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other then that it looks great!

just do a diy one. they are cheap fun to make and require not software.

all you need is An encoder some buttons and a box to put it all in.

It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.

But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UEAJWU&pd_rd_r=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5&pd_rd_w=mXEmp&pd_rd_wg=qvgXv&psc=1&refRID=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5

Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Punch-Keystone-105384/dp/B019WKW9U2/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498906038&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106727-2-Hole-1-Gang-Keystone/dp/B002DI48NM/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DI48NM&pd_rd_r=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV&pd_rd_w=DssNH&pd_rd_wg=JmKLq&psc=1&refRID=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV

To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.

There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.

If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.

https://www.amazon.com/ATPWONZ-Waterproof-Junction-Outdoor-Electrical/dp/B01N5I73QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541518744&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=waterproof+power+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=41cd%2Bk1Nx-L&ref=plSrch

I've been using these connectors to connect the wires to the driver. They make T connectors too. It can fit about 4 18g wires in each pole max, but they make for really clean builds. Wago connectors are handy, but I don't trust them in the long run for a grow environment.

First, you should talk to your extended family to see what they use in their home. They may be able to bring the larger, more expensive items (e.g. baby gates) with them depending on how they're traveling. But I've also made a list below.

Full disclosure: Most of this comes from research and talking to my parent friends since I only have a two week old. Some of these might be unnecessary depending on your home - they're just suggestions.

• Cabinet latches - You'll want them for drawers, cabinet doors, the refrigerator, and even your toilet seat cover. There are many different kinds, so shop around.
  
  
• Cord wraps - If you have venetian blinds (or something similar), you'll want to be able to tie up the excess cord since it's a choking hazard.
  
  
• Outlet covers - they make different kinds: covers that plug directly into outlets, plastic boxes that completely cover outlets that already have cords plugged into them, and cases that go around surge protectors.
  
  
• Stove knob covers if the knobs on your range/oven can be reached by a toddler. These are especially important if you have a gas range and don't want your house to blow up.
  
  
• Door knob covers - In case the toddler or four year old wants to wander into rooms it shouldn't.
  
  
• Baby Gates - if you have stairs, you'll need a gate at the top and bottom
  
  
• Solid plastic door stoppers - instead of the metal door stoppers with plastic toppers, which can be pried off and choked on. I'm not sure how necessary these are, but they're worth reviewing.
  

I would do something similar to what u/bdjookemgood said. The low voltage available here, and if you wanted were set on the condiut. But you don't need it all, you're just fishing some electrical, hdmi, and whatever else you need for your tv to function. I've used an extension cord to extend the electrical into the wall if the tv's power cable isnt long enough. One last tip I've done. Use these to give it a more finished look instead of just the holes in the wall. But all in all its a pretty simple idea.

In the future buy one of these from Labor Saving Devices and then buy ones of these and this will give you a two gang hole, or here is what your would use for a one gang hole , note this is a 10 pack of them but you can buy in singles just google it.

If you're confused what I mean when I say one gang and two gang holes, just imagine you typical electrical outlet with two plugins, thats one gang and if you had two of those side buy side that is called a two gang.

Now last buy not least buy one of these or one of these if you made a one gang hole...note you can buy these with the nose part going in or coming OUT like the one I linked to.

As my father always told me, the right tools get the job done every time and the small in investment in the tool to cut holes will be something that will make future jobs easier and make a LEVEL hole to the PROPER SIZE every single time.

I know as I have used this took to cut hundreds of holes and I use those low voltage brackets after I make the hole as well as the bull nose plates to route the cables through and no customers ever complain, turns out professional every time.

Good luck!

You don't necessarily need a box, but it's definitely worth terminating to a proper keystone jack and wallplate. Wallplates come in 2, 4, and 6 port versions, so you can get all your runs coming out a single-gang plate. Having wires just sticking out of your wall is definitely ugly, and may or may not violate your local code.

Instead of actual boxes, you can use old-work low voltage brackets like this to mount your wallplates. I actually prefer these, since they give you lots of in-wall access if you ever need to fish another cable through. I've been using the new-work version as I've been renovating my house and pulling ethernet to each room while I have the sheetrock down.

So here's my project I've been working on for the past couple of weeks. I'm sure you can adapt this to a 2 motor lift setup (just add 4 more relays), or to another AC motor appliance. Here are the links for the key parts from Amazon:

Remote -$10.00
Relays -$7.00 x 4
Power Switch -$6.55
Box -$18.50

The whole thing came to about $75 and that's compared with $400 for a commercial one.

Edit: Added a short little video.

Edit 2: Correction to diagram

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FU9KGSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would have gone a little bigger if I had known better

Something like THIS won't work?

You can buy one and mix them up however you want. If you are going to be making new holes in the wall for these jacks, keep in mind that you will also need something like below before you can use these plates:

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420651353&sr=8-2&keywords=old+work+box

Then you can use a USB DAC. The WesionTEK Khadas Tone Board (generic version) would work, it’s just a DAC that doesn’t have a housing (I think fits, you just drill out the 4 holes), it’s really good (If Windows, you need to download the firmware, it’s plug and play with Mac and Linux). To just RCA out from DAC to RCA in on SYS.

Otherwise, the Monoprice Monolith USB DAC would work, you just need 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect to the SYS.

Haha cool. I thought it looked familiar. I just spent the last few days ordering a bunch of parts including boxes.
I almost ordered the one you have, but decided on one with a hinged lid and latches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPANU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)

Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.

Sure! This is the keypad I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Security-6160-Ademco-Display/dp/B000H05WDS

And this is the actual control panel:

https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Both came with the house and integrate with ST after adding an Envisalink. There are some DSC-branded setups that can work the same as the Honeywell also.

You could buy a weatherproof panel. Something like this or this

This seems like it would work for bulky cords

Twin Door Outlet Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vQQVzb93NWYCV

You could buy the system and keypad with wireless receiver if you're ambitious. There is a somewhat steep learning curve involved with programming the system yourself, but there are plenty of guides and forums on the internet.

Visto 20p (good for a residence): http://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452520211&sr=8-1&keywords=vista+20p

Keypad with wireless receiver for the modules you have already: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-6162rf-Receiver-security-Replacement/dp/B00G3DBUWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452520317&sr=8-1&keywords=ademco+6162rf

Found this if whatever you're securing fits. https://smile.amazon.com/Safety-Innovations-10408-Twin-Outlet/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=9Y1HWPEZ001GA23QMM81&pf_rd_r=9Y1HWPEZ001GA23QMM81&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cded295-23b4-40b1-8da6-7c1c9eb81d33&pf_rd_p=1cded295-23b4-40b1-8da6-7c1c9eb81d33&pf_rd_i=desktop

RJ45 tester

wall plate mounting bracket

keystone wall plate

keystone f/f jack

CAT6 ends

The setup from your diagram should work.

Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.

Might want to look into these

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat5e-Punch-Keystone-105376/dp/B003L171FW

http://www.amazon.com/Shaxon-BM303WP6-B-Single-White-Keystone/dp/B006IKHAZY

You're going to need these to mount the wall plates, unless you just use drywall screws
lol

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8


They have packs of 5 or 10 or whatnot

Agreed. Before you start cleaning, install a bigger box: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009KIN0A.

To expand on the recommendations to just add the propper wall plates so they blend in and look correct which is also what I would do for these.

THis is what the wall plates will look like there are other options, but this should give you an idea
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Premium-Connector-Banana-Plate/dp/B00GWOMMA4/

low voltage brackets look like this, you can get away with the plates screwed right into the wall but these are the "propper way"

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/

There is most likely a bunch all coming out where the receiver was. They have larger plates that will fit that depending on how many speakers they had setup.

Amazon, see link below.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSRIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I used: https://www.amazon.ca/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=weatherproof+box

I have an Eve remote temp/humidity sensor in the box, and it doesn't hit more than 33C on hot days (it's not in direct sun). You could always add a small PoE fan and cut out a hole (add a screen) in the back.

EDIT: You'll also need some of these: https://www.amazon.ca/Zilong-Waterproof-Adjustable-3-5-13mm-Glands/dp/B076C83P21

Something like this

iMBAPrice LV1-2PK Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V3tACbY7ZW1JN

And don't forget these things: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478199723&sr=8-1&keywords=old+work+low+voltage+box

You can use brush plates to pass the cable directly through the wall, without the extra jacks. Use a low voltage box to mount them to the wall.

This is the WHOLE panel?
https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2

Drilled a two inch hole through the side of my house, placed some PVC conduit in, passed the cables through. Finished it on the inside of the house with a wall plate with BNC connector

‘brush wall plate’ https://www.amazon.com/GE-through-Speaker-Coaxial-87697/dp/B003YKG8YK ‘mount’ https://www.amazon.com/d/Electrical-Brackets/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/B000UEAJWU

I've used this box in my two builds. It fits all the components

http://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591ESBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BSRIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459303304&sr=8-1&keywords=project+box

Is this what I want to put into the hole in the wall to attach the wall plate to?

We have a similar casing for our wires, I believe it was extra from a members 3d printer

Edit: found it!

You should use a Circuit Tracer -

Sockit Boxes SOCKiTBOX Model 330 BK Weatherproof Electrical Box, Large - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HHMBW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lEuUCb12DZFTS

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Innovations-10408-Twin-Outlet/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=outlet+cover+box&qid=1572472753&sr=8-3

Non-mobile:

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J80J1A
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00917Z96S
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.

Are you looking for a closed project box ? Or a smaller USB?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FU9KGSM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't have any design experience, I would suggest just buying a project box. There are all kinds of sizes, colors etc. example below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSRIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487735355&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=project+box

I have the same box, grid is sold separately.

Grid

Box

/u/SpaceDurr did a full write up of his first bucket build, but the attached box is this

Here's a list of all the parts.

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSRIO


Power Socket Plugs:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008J80J1A

Power Inlet:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00917Z96S

Temp Controller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OXPE8U6

I already had some wire and the crimp on connectors.

Yep, you could very easily change them into outlets. You would need:

https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Wall-Plate-Jack-1-Port/dp/B00HN9KT48/

https://smile.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU

Then you cut a hole in the wall, install the low voltage box, screw one of the cables onto the back of the plate, and install the plate.

>Any idea why there are two cables then?

Possible they had an antenna hooked to one. Maybe two TVs in close proximity. shrug hard saying really. If you connect the cable modem to one of them and it doesn't work try the other.

Here is the wiring enclosure:


Leviton 47605-42W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 42-Inch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009KIN0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a96zCb4MZ9NW3


And bingo on the RGB PC fan covering the modem. Split off the molex and soldered the wires to an AC/DC adapter for power to an outlet. With the enclosure it gets hot. Another fan is on the NVR.

I can't seem to add another picture in the reply but I cut holes in the cover for intake and exhaust fans as well.

Edit: Humbled by joining Reddit https://imgur.com/gallery/zyZ9dI6

https://www.google.com/webhp?q=nema+enclosure#q=nema+enclosure&safe=off&tbm=shop

Lots of options for cheap, also check Amazon/eBay.

$20, but not sure if big enough:
https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491863938&sr=8-1&keywords=nema+enclosure

if they are low voltage would i need this?

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

Put it wherever you're going to put your devices. For low voltage hole you would cut a hole the size of a regular single gang outlet. You would need these Low Voltage Mounting Bracket
Then the faceplates screw to that.

EDIT- I have one of these to trace and make sure it's level.

I work with these types of cables all the time in extreme conditions. You can ask 10 experts and get 10 different suggestions. All of them are right, and all are wrong. (Flame me now). Some will preach standards, others will use crap cables (some will get lucky enough that they work).

As you aren't telling us your use, I can only assume a display feed w/ audio and an IR receiver. You're trying to extend your home theater into your bedroom? On the cheap?

It will likely work because you aren't demanding much from the cables. True file transfers would likely have intermittent issues. Active bidirectional communications would fail. But IR signal blips would be okay, because even if it doesn't work, you'll just hit the button again.

I've got about 100 different amazon basic cables, I've only had one bad one.

HDMI:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Supports/dp/B008JR72SO/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617234&sr=1-1&keywords=amazonbasics+hdmi

USB Extention:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617276&sr=1-1&keywords=25%27+usb+extension+cable

I don't have personal experience with either of the cables, but the reviews are good.

Then just clean it up with some basic wall plate openings. Don't get fancy with termination plates, you're adding loss and at this distance that could be bad. (see, I just gave my right/wrong advice)

http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-WP1014WHV1-Cable-Access-Wallplate/dp/B0032FO27M/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617422&sr=1-6&keywords=wire+opening+wall+plate

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.

If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.

Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If there's any space between the wall and the chimney po two of these in and run the cords behind the wall

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8/ref=pd_sim_23_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=31W1YMNITdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=6Y736933DX5FMFS3TDP3

What is above/below you? Attic? Unfinished basement?

If it is an attic, you can drop a line down into the wall and do it professionally. Just need fish tape, a couple gang boxes, some keystone jacks, and wall plates. All can be had for <$50

Unfinished basement, same thing, drill down, fish down (easier because gravity) and look for where the cat5 comes out in the basement, if possible use any existing conduits for previously ran LV wiring. Then go to modem location, fish down with your fish wire, and find it in the basement. Tie down your cat5 and fish it through. Ezpz

Also, avoid powerline adapters. Those things are hot garbage, and should only be used when all other options have been exhausted. As a tech, I have seen so many repair tickets for those peices of garbage alone. Run cat5, buy a wifi dongle & router that supports dual band, but do not use powerline again.

toolless keystone jack 2-pk

keystone wallplate 5-pk

cat5

LV gang box

Fishing is a pain in the ass, and a skill just like everything else. No harm in letting a pro do it.

If you use something like this https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-LV1-2PK-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+wall+box&qid=1564496246&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (once again, just an example. Single gang low voltage if what you are looking for) then use a drywall saw to make a hole that this thing fits into, it gives it a nice professional finish and the plate goes on there nicely.

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

May or may not help you depending on the trim etc in your home I have tall mop / trim boards on the floor. I removed one cut a small access hole. Then straight up from that I created a hole and used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU?th=1 paired with https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Point-Female-Female-Voltage-Mounting/dp/B01EMKYYFA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=ZXV79125ZGP0YVBZ5BEN&th=1

you simple plug an ethernet cable into the back drop it down into the wall. Then where my small access hole was I cut a notch and drilled a small hole this allowed the ethernet cable to drop through the floor. Secured in the notch the mop board was put back in place. This hid the cables and meant you could not see any of the work that was done. In the room below I did the same thing but with the crown moulding hiding my notch. This allowed me to run the cables inside the wall with minimal effort / damage / repairs with the two ethernet cables running to another wall plate thus I have plug and play access to the router. I ran dual lines however you could run just 1 and attach another network access point (router / switch etc) To add extra ports or to extend wireless range.

The other option is install another router downstairs and use it as a wifi extender / repeater. However since I prefer hardwired connections the above sufficed for my needs.

3 options

1. Connect rca lead to speaker wire ends.
   
2. Use an inwall subwoofer or a subwoofer with an external amp.
   
3. Remove the baseboard (if its installed yet). Use a multitool to cut a 1" channel behind the baseboard into the drywall. Then run a single rca in the channel and 20" or so (outlet height) up inside the wall on both sides. Pop out of the wall with old work low voltage boxes. Replace the baseboard to hide the wire. I run a level line/channel about 2" off the floor and be cautious not to nail into the wire when replacing the baseboard. Drywall is 1/2 thick, which is large enough for the cable.
   Multi-tool
   http://m.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html
   
   RCA
   http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2680?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10236&subcategoryid=1023603&cpncd=
   
   Single Gang Low Voltage Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JgYMwb3PFJAP8