Hello, she is such a cute girl! You really need to try to get her off the "good stuff"' and onto healthy pellets/hay/greens diet with occasional treat. If you look at the summary I linked it outlines what a good diet would be and this is a good high level summary: https://www.binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/tabid/53/CategoryID/2/PID/940/Default.aspx I think you might have already looked though the summary hence you question, so a couple suggestions that might help:

1. Try to get fresher and better hay and pellets than what you buy packaged at the store. oxbow is good, but sometimes doesn't smell and taste as enticing to bunny as something fresher might. Couple suggestions below:
   this sampler box of hay - it smells wonderful to bunnies https://shop.smallpetselect.com/products/sampler-box. Later you can get a couple boxes of hay she likes the most and mix it up for her to have a blend - again variety works best and they more of it. This site also has great pellets and hay and chew tows that most bunnies will like as again it is quite fresh.
   
   This sources is also good for great fresh hay and pellets: https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/
   
   Especially their hay chips make for great treats and encourage more hay consumption - https://www.amazon.com/FarmerDavePetSupply-Pounds-Premium-Timothy-Chips/dp/B00ZXZCRIA/ref=lp_12025098011_1_8?srs=12025098011&ie=UTF8&qid=1539104889&sr=8-8, in fact it would be ok to offer these as a great supplement to hay.. they are just hay but made into crunchy chips, some bunnies just like it more. I also use as treats. I think she might like it, worth the money for sure to try.
   
   Whatever hay you offer bunnies like fresh, sometimes putting a fresh layer into his feeder or even taking out of his feeder and mixing up with the fresh hay in the box and replacing into his feeder will make him want to eat it more. Oh and be sure to have hay right next to her litter box as bunnies love to poop and much and she will eat more of it, but have a smaller rack also in another place. I like this feeder in particular - really awesome and will last forever!
   https://www.etsy.com/listing/176171801/rabbit-hay-feeder?ref=shop_home_feat_1 or you can DIY one to try it like in this picture https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9mli4c/adopted_this_little_guy_thor_from_our_local/ as long as you secure the box. This smaller one works for another space https://www.amazon.com/Mkono-Feeder-Wasted-Manger-Chinchilla/dp/B072C5LTY5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539135867&sr=8-3&keywords=hay+rack
   
   Same with pellets (but unlike hay in limited quantities of only 1/4 cup per day per 6 lb bunny) , the fresher better quality they are the more enticing the smell and taste will be (they do cost more but not so much more that it really is unfavorable... cheaper than vet bills anyways). When you switch her pellets do so slowly by mixing old and new and changing the proportions in favor of new.. If she entirely refuses even good fresh healthy pellets try to encourage her with a treats, mix in a few tiny pieces of homemade treats like tiny apple cubes, banana, maybe some cilantro, parsley, mint leaves sprinkled and mixed in such that she has to try to eat a pellet to get a treat, hopefully she will like the taste she gets and try some more. Also try handfeeding to trick her, have a pellet and a tiny piece of fruit in one hand, let her sniff and become excited then feed the pellet and follow immediately by treat, then feed another pellet or two if you can or a hay cube... with time she will hopefully come to like it more and she will associate the healthy food with getting a treat after, so eating pellets will become a good thing and she may start doing it more without the extra encouragement of treats so much.
   
   
2. Also try to offer toys to make it more interesting for her -
   You can stuff hay and a few pellets of both kind for now into a paper towel or toilet paper roll and let her forage for them
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9j3lod/a_couple_people_requested_this_i_wish_i_was_able/
   
   

• You can use a treat ball to feed pellets and see if she is more interested
  
  https://www.amazon.com/WHEEKY-Guinea-Pets-Adjustable-Opening/dp/B01BHCFRUM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1539105014&sr=1-4&keywords=small+animal+treat+ball
  
  The food sites I liked above also have good chew toys made of hay, try the fidget stick from small pet select or even just braid the hay your have yourself and offer like that.
  
  Oh this video does a great job showing healthy treats - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wqC_dV2xNE
  
  Get her a heavier ceramic food bowl so she cannot throw it, or a treat ball as I said to feed pellets... it is strange that she would bite... is she spayed? If she does bite, make a loud squealing noise like a bunny crying to indicate that it hurts and you don't like it... don't punish her or yell or lock her up as she will just get sacred and stop trusting you.
  
  I really hope some of this might help you and you beautiful girl! A healthy diet is essential to her long term health... as is spaying is she in not yet.

I'm going to post a "hamster cheat sheet" I wrote for another thread. I'm sure you're doing most of this, but poor hygiene on the part of the hamster usually indicates something has been overlooked.

Posted this in a different thread, but it's relevant here to:

Here are the current, evidence-based facts of how to make a hamster enclosure on the cheap. Hamsters have long been thought of as being the same as mice, but they have drastically different needs. If you're willing to meet them, you will have an awesome little friend! If you don't, you'll likely have an anxious bitey hamster like so many of us remember from childhood.

The Hamster

Syrian hamsters are the big, fluffy creatures you usually think of. They need more space, but are generally quite friendly. The females are more active, and while still friendly, will probably not want to just sit in your hand for too long. If you want a hamster more likely to cuddle, get a male. Males do drag around a fairly impressive ballsack, so if this upsets you, a female might be more to your liking. Syrian hamsters live alone. Always. Period.

Dwarf hamsters are not the same species as Syrian hamsters, and actually encompass several different species. These are smaller, faster and more mouselike in their appearance. For a first time hamster owner, the only breed I'd recommend is the Djungarian winter white, a Russian hamster that turns white in the winter (sometimes - depends on light levels and temperature). These are typically more friendly and less skittish than Robos (Robovoski hamsters).

They can be hybridized with the Campbell's, so if you're buying from a pet store, you'll likely get a hybrid (often called "sunfire" if it's white). All Djungarian hamsters have some kind of stripe down their back, whereas Robos do not. These hamsters can occasionally live with another of the same litter and gender, but will need the same space as the Syrian and you have to be ready to separate them at any time. Hamster can and do kill each other, and it's not pretty to find that in the morning!

Dwarf hamsters are perfectly happy to live on their own, even if they have a cage mate in the pet store. Pet stores rarely, if ever, are aware of proper hamster care.

The Enclosure

For a Syrian (also called golden, teddy bear, panda bear), use two 44 gallon storage tanks - or something of equivalent floor space. Don't worry about chew-throughs; the plastic is sturdy and with adequate SPACE and enrichment hamsters will not chew on their enclosures as much, or at all. Cut a LARGE rectangular hole in one end of each bin and use hot glue and strips from the material you removed to securely fasten the cages to one another. It can also help to glue a piece of cardboard like a "patch" to the outside bottom of your habitat bridging the two containers for extra support.

Make sure no "lip" is visible on the floor between the cages after you put around 4 inches of bedding in there. (so basically, start your hole about an inch or so above the bottom of the container). You want the hamster to feel like they are in one big box, not to small ones joined with a pipe. Then, cut out a large rectangle in the lid, and zip-tie some wire mesh in there.

This example is of a single cage, suited for a Dwarf like a winter white (the best dwarf hamster, don't get a Robovoski if you've never had hamsters. A Syrian would need two of these, joined as above.

Bedding

For the bedding, use aspen or beech chips or shavings (avoid super fine dust). You can buy a 50 pound bag for very little money. Carefresh is more expensive and doesn't pack as well for tunneling. Cedar and pine have volatile resins that will kill your hamster. Get some orchard grass at the pet store and layer it with the aspen shavings so that the hamster's tunnel system and nest won't collapse. Heap up quite a bit in half of one of the bins so it's around 6-8 inches deep (again, AFTER packing it down with reasonable pressure). 3-4 inches is sufficient for the rest of the enclosure. Contrary to the stereotype, hamsters are quite clean and you only need to change maybe a 3rd of the bedding every month and a half or so, as long as you're spot-cleaning any obviously soiled areas.

Finally, tuck some toilet paper in your belt, or your bra, and carry it around for an hour. Then shred it finely and put it in the enclosure next to the deep section of the bedding. This will help the hamster become accustomed to your smell.

Sand Bath

All hamsters need a sand bath, preferably two. I like to use one of those little tilted cookie jars to contain the sand, although a dish will do just fine. Your hamster will typically pee in one, and wash itself in the other (the sand helps absorb oils and knock dust off their coat). Don't use chinchilla dust - this will poison your hamster via inhalation. Pre-rinsed aquarium sand is usually quite cheap from the pet store. It's sometimes called "aquarium substrate." Just make sure it doesn't obviously advertise it as a calcium or "live reef" sand. Your hamster licks itself to clean, and although it will spit out the sand, you don't want it ODing on some kind of additive.

I dump the sand bath out every couple weeks or so and wipe it down, but I don't sterilize it - the slight smell of pee helps your hamster remember to use it, and not other places, for the bathroom. Your hamster will still likely crap everywhere, but that's ok - hamster poo does not contain harmful bacteria to the hamster, and they often re-ingest pieces that still have nutrients.

Toys

Hamsters 100%, absolutely need a wheel. For Syrian hamsters, they need a 12-inch diameter wheel. Any wheel that forces the hamster to bend its back upwards will hasten arthritis and back problems. Dwarf hamsters can have a 6 inch wheel, but an 8 inch is better. Silent Spinner brand wheels are great for dwarfs, but for Syrians I prefer the simplest of the Carolina Storm brand wheels. They're homemade and are the quietest wheels ever!

Toys are where you can get creative! There are all kinds of fun and whimsical wooden toys. Expect all toys to be chewed on, so make sure they're non-toxic. The bird section in the pet store is another great place to find hamster toys. I raid garage sales for little ceramic dishes and knicknacks, since your hamster will NOT chew on these (it's really the only thing they don't). You can make great hiding places and sit spots with these kind of things.

Pet store tubes are ONLY appropriate for dwarfs. Don't make them climb very high in your creation. Syrians are too big and can injure themselves.

I also recommend a nice hardwood branch (so, from a fruit tree or other hardwood. Nothing evergreen. If you collect this yourself give it a good scrub with soap and water, then bake it in the oven on the lowest setting (150 - 200F). Your hamster will likely use this to sharpen and trim their teeth. Overgrown teeth are a serious health problem, so don't skimp on things your hamster can chew.

My hamster loves little puzzles, like cardboard balls (omnipresent on hamster youtube channels - you'll find instructions everywhere), dangling walnut shells with treats inside etc. Syrians are especially prone to boredom, so I like to scatter most of the dry food (about 2 tablespoons per day) throughout the cage, and hand-feed any fresh food, though I may leave it in their dish.

Food

For a guaranteed balance of what your hamster needs, mix Higgins Sunburst formula (not any other ones) 50/50 with Mazuri Rat & Mouse (a large pellet food). You can also give your little buddy small amounts of vegetables (look up which ones are safe. My hamsters love arugula!), hard boiled egg pieces, and milk-bone treats.

Water

Get a glass water bottle with the typical ball-spout thingy. I use 3M Velcro to attach it to the enclosure (usually near the wheel, furthest from the nest area). Be sure to wipe down the area you're going to put it with a little rubbing alcohol and dry thoroughly - it's probably dusty from the bedding. Hang it quite low so your hamster doesn't have to rear up much to drink.

Brands

Generally Oxbow and Higgins tend to be good brands for food, accessories and stuff like hay and bedding. Kaytee is ok for toys, terrible for food. Never get Petsmart or Petco brand food.

When You Bring it Home

This is the hardest thing on the list. Leave it alone for a week. Seriously. Get it on a Saturday and don't pester the little fellow until next Saturday. (obviously clean the wheel if they pee in it, change food and water if it's low). Hamsters patrol an area of up to five square miles in the wild, and in a new place, they need to establish their hiding places, their feeding grounds, their exercise area, and also assess how many predators there are. Continue leaving small amounts of toilet paper with your scent on it throughout the week, and on the next Saturday you can start to make friends. Taming is a whole separate article, but it takes a little work before your hamster is cool with just being picked up randomly.

Having a hamster is a wonderful project, and it can be inexpensive and easy. The only difficult part is acquiring the knowledge, as it goes against the stereotypes that are ingrained in American culture (that hamster = mouse).

If any of this seems daunting, and you just want an easy critter that can live in one of those fun cages with all the tubes and bulbs, get a pair of (same gender) fancy mice instead. They're meant to live in groups in enclosed spaces, are smaller and practically pre-tamed.

I want to say thank you for being receptive to rattit's collective knowledge.

Definitely agree with all that was said by /u/durshka

To add to what has been said:

I'm not sure what country you are in, but in the US there are some great rat feeds. It's crucial you give them this, because rats will pick through seeds and take the carb/sugar loaded things over the protein vitamin stuff. (they are like people)

Oxbow is pretty standard and they look like this you do not want to get stuff like this as their main feed. They will pick through all the good bits (pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, peanuts, dried peas) and leave the fiber which they need. I do have a bag of this and use it as treats!

PLENTY OF FRESH VEG! also remember to wash the veg and fruit off well if you are going non-organic. Pesticides are truly harmful especially to rats which in comparison to us are TINY!

Give them a bit of chicken or tuna etc from time to time. I usually share what I'm eating with them if it's healthy.

Another good treat (and a good way to administer medicine if ever needed) is baby food. Mine love the sweet potato, squash, peas one!

When picking out a cage try and get one with at least 2 floors. Meaning they can climb and have different areas. Rats are super smart, and need space to keep it interesting. Also make sure the flooring of the shelves and ramps is not wired steel, and that it has plating. The bottom can be as long as you have enough bedding on the bottom. Rats can get bumblefoot from wired flooring.

A CAGE LIKE THIS IS IDEAL it's tall rather than wide, which they love!

Great, thank you for being such a good person and taking him in, that's a very admirable thing to do!

You seem to be intelligent and you're probably doing your own research. Good job on trying to find him a friend, I cannot stress how important that is, as you've probably read online.

The scared phase is typically just a phase in the beginning. He's in a new environment and he's afraid. Guinea pigs are prey, it's only natural for them to jump and run the second they see movement they're non-familiarized with.. even when it is familiar, they're not the brightest creatures in the world and can still overreact to slight movements. After this scared phase, which can really last from a couple days to a month, it depends on their personality. Some piggies can be chill and start wheeking whenever they see their owners, and others will simply run from them for the rest of their lives, even though they enjoy being cuddled once you finally get them in your hands. It's simply something you're going to have to go through, and don't take their fearfulness personally :)

What kind of dry food are you getting him, and what kind of hay? What type of water holder do you have? He may be unfamiliar with it. Keep giving him lettuce (not iceburg) if he'll eat it, but not too too much. 1 baby carrot a day and a little bit of green pepper should do the trick as well. Piggies are supposed to have a little salad every day. Here's a fantastic guide to what they can have and what quantities is recommended.

Regarding his bedding, the only way he'll stop being afraid of you is to see that there's nothing to be afraid of. It's okay to scare him, since he'll eventually learn that there's no reason to be scared. Just clean around him and provide him a little treat like a carrot and he'll eventually come around. My piggies run from me whenever I clean their cage, it's just apart of owning them.

I don't know if there will ever be a point where a piggie can "trust" you. I don't think they're capable of trust, though some have very relaxed personalities compared to others. Like I said, they're prey. They're built to not trust you. You can start touching and holding him whenever you'd like, though you know your piggie better than we do. If he's truly so afraid of you that you don't want to hold him, don't. If you think it's time, go for it, he'll run, but just grab his butt and give him a nice cuddle session. Don't wear any clothes you're fond of :)

Whats most important is that you get him a friend, a large cage (2x3 minimum for 2), and understand how to properly feed them. I highly recommend purchasing this hay (I know it may seem like 10lbs is a lot since your little guy is hardly eating, but you'll be shocked to see how much they eat normally), these pellets (I assume he's under 6 months old), and using these kind of water bottles. I also recommend buying fleece bedding, as you will save money and time cleaning in the long run.

Let me know if you have more questions!

I use the Home Depot tub and didn't have to do any kind of trimming (good thing as I haven't the tools to do it lol). I tried a tub from Lowe's that was just a tiny bit too big but the Home Depot tub was a perfect fit, even though they are basically the same thing. I went with that rather than the Bass pans mostly due to cost. The cage is definitely huge and roomy; my rats (I only have two) love double layer hammocks, though they usually sleep on the top level of them. Baskets, hides, etc. are great for them. The tub really doesn't take up enough floor space to worry about, imo. Plus, the cage can be repurposed in the future for other small animals as well!

I buy the "yogurt treat" things that Gerber makes for babies as the yogis made for animals can be high in sugar from what I understand. I used Oxbow till I got a batch the boys refused to eat so I tried the Harlan Teklad (sp?) blocks which were ok, and then found another brand on Amazon which they LOVE and will go for before either of the other two. They love whole wheat pasta; Sam will gingerly take a single piece while Frodo will stuff his cheeks like he thinks he's a hamster! They didn't care for the dried fruit treats I got them once, I think it was freeze dried berries? They do love baby food (turkey/beef/chicken, apples, other fruit) and peas in a bowl of water (I use frozen peas). They enjoy a variety of chew toys and sometimes millet plumes (make sure it's not the orange scented ones for birds, yuck) and oat sprays. They're my first rats and it's a huge difference from the mice, hamsters, and hedgehog I've had before. They're SO smart!

Throwing in my support for what everyone else has said.

Since you're looking for guinea pig products, I'll link you a few things that have worked for us.

Kaytee guinea pig kibble: My pigs love the little orange pieces in this food. Made with Timothy so it is lower in calcium. I never tried the Oxbow adult pellets you got, but I do have the young pig pellets. All the pigs love it so I'd say you got a good buy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ZXO106

Treat wise I just got these two from Oxbow. Pigs absolutely loved it. Several of them tried stealing from each other. -_- I told them they only get one each! I also got some Critical Care just in case any of my pigs goes downhill and needs some just in case. Critical Care comes in 3 types: Original blend (coarser ground, green bag), Apple-banana (coarser ground, green bag), and Fine ground in a red bag (for syringe feeding). I got some Original and mashed some apple sauce and a little slice of banana in it. Pigs seemed to enjoy eating it out of a spoon. lol.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00244F546
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PZEBKS

Word of caution about the Timothy. My family is allergic to timothy hay. I've heard plenty of stories about people giving away their guinea pig cause they were 'allergic.' I suspect many of the times the people were just allergic to the hay. If your family starts getting a bad case of the hay fever - think about switching to Mountain Grass/Orchard Grass.

Once you guys really start getting into guinea pigs and start considering cutting costs down by buying in bulk. Look for your local feed and grain stores. They'll have bales of hay, big bales of wood chips and other supplies. I get a bale of Mountain Grass for $20ish.

If you are looking for corrogated plastic and can't find any at your local hardware stores. Call local sign making companies. I recently had to buy two sheets of 4ft by 8ft. None of the hardware stores could help, but this sign company I called thought it was the most hilarious order! It wasn't a big thing for them since they get sheets every day. Perfect match! Being a piggy owner is a lot about improvising and thinking of creative solutions. Good luck!

I've had these girls for about 6 months now and they are my first rats! They take up residence in a huge 100 gallon terrarium (previously a fish tank) with a metal grating that I ghetto-rigged with tank locks so that they get airflow. I personally make all of their climby apparatus (using wood and scant amounts of wood glue) which also doubles as their chewy things and they have ceramic food dishes, one each for water, rat food (they like that brand and flavor the best), and one for their fresh fruits and vegetables.

My question is about their bedding. I don't like using pine (it makes them sneeze like crazy and is bad for their lungs), but they have waaaaaaaaay too much fun burrowing and making messes with their mulch.

Is there a good substitute for this? I don't want their little feetsies to just be on the cold glass of the bottom of the tank, but I don't want them to consistently throw their poop and mulch into their water dish. I change it every day, but I don't want them drinking poopy water until I come home. :/ Any and all suggestions for their bedding or otherwise would be greatly appreciated--I made sure to list their environment for just that purpose!

Thanks so much!


PS: I have 4 now, but I can't get a good picture of Ears, my dumbo rat (the newest). The all black one on the bottom is Banksy, then the other black one is actually black and white and her name is Book. She's so smart that I'm starting to believe a book was written about her. The albino is Ghost, and my best friend has her sister, who is Gheist. I get super awesome loves any time I stick my hand in the tank and they love hanging out with me on my desk. :3

How is the little man? I assume you got dosing information from the person that sent you the prednisone. Is that the case?

I've been busy with school work since it's end of term and figured you were probably being taken care of. No news is often good news, after all. Sorry about not checking in sooner, though. Also, please send me a private message if you have any questions or need help. I try to check this forum at least once a day.

Now that he is stabilizing (I hope), it's a good time to be thinking about nutrition. The prednisone will reduce swelling and help him heal, but he needs some good, calcium rich food so that his body has the building blocks to rebuild.

Would you please tell me what you are feeding? I have a formula ball recipe that I make for sick, injured, older orphan and severely malnourished squirrels. It really helps them a lot. I recommend it, and it is pretty calcium rich, so that will help any fractured bones to heal.

I make it with a mix of these two formula powders:
https://www.amazon.com/Henrys-Healthy-Pet-Foods-Squirrels/dp/B00EFJ6JJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542085012&sr=8-3&keywords=fox+valley+squirrel

https://www.amazon.com/Henrys-Healthy-Pet-Foods-Ultraboost/dp/B00N9HW6N0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542085012&sr=8-5&keywords=fox+valley+squirrel

This rodent block:
https://www.amazon.com/Envigo-Formerly-Harlan-Teklad-GROWTH/dp/B00N0EPSJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542085489&sr=8-1&keywords=harlan+rat+2018

And virgin coconut oil. Get cold pressed and unfiltered if you can find it because that type still has a taste of coconut. Squirrels like the taste of coconut.

You also need a tasty nut like pecans or walnuts and a slice of apple.

Get those things, and I will give you instructions when they get there, if not before. It's super late, and I need to go to bed right now :)

It's no trouble :)

I feed my pigs Oxbow food. Since your pig is still a baby, he/she can eat that food till they're 6 months. Then you can get the Oxbow adult pig food. They should also have mostly alfalfa hay, not timothy, till they're 6 months. When my pigs were babies, we usually gave them alfalfa in the morning and at night, and then we gave them timothy (or botanical hay, or oat hay--Oxbow makes both of these) throughout the day.

Sticks are fine :) I usually just get edible houses for my pigs.

AFAIK, it just depends on what you prefer for bedding. I used the Pet Supplies Plus brand paper bedding before I switched to fleece. Just make sure you don't use wood shavings because they're bad for their respiratory systems.

And I assume you've read about their vitamin C needs? I give these tabs to my pigs. Usually everyday because they love them and it's adorable watching them all come up to the side of the cage :) But you can give them strips of red pepper, too! I recently introduced my pigs to those little cutie oranges and they love those. They also get romaine, cilantro, cucumbers, and grape tomatoes on a regular basis. Every once in a while they get a tiny piece of raw sweet potato, squash, or an apple.

Get some replacement hammocks, as it's very likely they'll chew through this one quickly.

I'd skip putting the litter on the first floor, IMO it just makes it easier for them to accidently throw it out of the cage.

We have also removed all of the ladders in the cage, our boys never used them.

If it's an option, I'd buy another floor part to create the second floor, our rats feel much better when there's more space to explore.
As for food, we're buying them beaphar care +. It's the best thing we’ve found, they’re eating every piece from the mix and since we’ve switched the diet to this they’re less stinky.

If you’ve got any questions feel free to hit me up.

Bonus pic: Bread behind the mint bush

I'd get rid of that wooden bottom, try coroplast (like they use on guinea pig cages), it's a plastic you can wipe down if accidents happen and it would absorb smells like the wood. What kind of litter are you using in their cage/litter box?

Small pet select select these lovely herbal blend treats. They smell like fantastic potpourri and the buns can eat them.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-Flower-Herbal/dp/B01FGJS18W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523907925&sr=8-4&keywords=small+pet+select+herbal

I kept it in a little dish by my bunnies' cage and it was really nice. I wouldn't use essential oils, bunnies have sensitive respiratory tracts.

Are you any good at keeping rosemary plants? Those smell nice and buns can eat those.

I'd say either Wysong, raw, or most premium kitten food! From my knowledge Blue Buffalo works well if you're going the kitten food route, and can also be found at most pet stores easily (Or, if you're lucky, it can be found at a grocery store), just be sure whatever you get doesn't have grain. Wysong is the best specifically ferret food I know of and can be found on Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Wysong-Ferret-Epigen-Digestive-Support/dp/B019W9VXZK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ferret&qid=1554951902&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-2 ), and I'm afraid I know little to nothing about raw feeding, but heard its an ideal ferret diet, but Wysong also offers a raw option (Chicken: https://www.amazon.com/Wysong-Ferret-Archetype-Chicken-Formula/dp/B00L72JUYC/ref=sr_1_46?keywords=ferret&qid=1554953171&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-46 )! Hope this helped!

This rabbit can't be left in the wild, so good on you for rescuing it! Someone dumped it for sure.

If you're going to keep the rabbit, it can be housed in an x-pen. A rabbit this size can't be kept in a cage or hutch; that's too small and it might become aggressive.

x-pen:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Foldable-Metal-Exercise-Fence/dp/B0758CTVVR/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=x-pen&qid=1564975010&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE4U1FUMkhLREpMRVAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNDk2MTgxQkVTVFlHUUhCNFBSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0ODg5NTUyN05CQklSNUVaVko2JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Rabbits must have hay at all times. You'll have to provide it with a constant, endless supply of high quality timothy hay. This is their main diet. The links I'm sending you are examples of course - you can source your hay from anywhere, it just has to be good stuff. This rabbit looks like it's old enough that it doesn't need alfalfa hay.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-Cutting-Timothy/dp/B00WEJA7QC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=small%2Bpet%2Bselect%2Btimothy%2Bhay&qid=1564975102&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFIQUtTUTlNTVJJVUwmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMDM3MzYyQTRONFVWUjNZTVBZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzU1NDIxQVJJUDgwVkZFMUJFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

It can drink water from a bowl. I got my rabbit just a regular, big heavy crock like for dogs.

Rabbits need a litter box. Not the triangle kind though. You put the hay in the litter box, and the rabbit will naturally pee and poop there. I use this for their litter because it's cheap:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-pine-pellet-stall-bedding-40-lb

Rabbit care is highly specialized! They are not easy maintenance pets but I happen to love 'em to bits, they have such funny little personalities.

Here's some links to products I mentioned and products my pigs like:

Small Pet Select Timothy Hay Pet Food, 10-Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ID70IEU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tr8Eub1AJRAQ7

Ware Hand Woven Willow Twig Tunnel Small Pet Hideout, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H3BLCY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-s8Eub0ETWT7J

Kaytee Forti Diet Pro Health Food for Guinea Pig, 5-Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VB503Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Av8Eub1ERBJYN

eCOTRITION Snak Shak Treat Stuffer for Guinea Pig/Rabbit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WAGVO2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jw8Eub001T4KZ

Kaytee Chew-Proof Water Bottle, 26-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ70S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eA8Eub1MCZ8ZJ (I fill it almost completely and mine never leaks, but some reviews mention it leaking).

Kaytee Super Sleeper Cuddle-E-Cup, Colors Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASBRM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qY8Eub0PE7E4Y best to get two of things like this, pigs will fight over it if there's only one.

My bun was SO stubborn and refused to eat his Timothy Hay. For years, he’d barely nibble on any of his hay. I got so nervous that he truly wasn’t getting enough of it (considering his diet should be majority of hay).

I began to give him a “orchard grass” hay. Bright green and he LOVES it. He’s never eaten so much hay in his life!!! I thank goodness I found this.

I’m attaching the link from amazon.
Try it — good luck!!! orchard grass hay link

Veggies are important, but don't worry too much if you can't get your rabbit to eat them. Just make sure you're using a very high quality pellet. I've done some nutritional research and I've found the best brands for healthy rabbits are: Sherwood Adult Rabbit Food and Supreme Selective. Oxbow pellets are more widely available and highest quality you can get in stores but they tend to be a little high in protein imo.

Also, you can try rubbing strawberry slices over the top of lettuce leaves to trick your bun into taking a nibble.

That's not rat food. This is ratfood.