Ok. All the recent Canon cameras can take a cheap interval timer, which allows you to do star trails, nightscapes and wide field pictures. It will also be necessary for deep sky images, but that that you'll also want some way to track the movement of the earth. Pentax's K-r and K-5 can take a GPS unit that does this, which is nifty. But you're limited in the focal length and time you can expose for. A more robust solution is a German equatorial mount, like for a telescope, but you wouldn't need a telescope. If you get a sturdy one, that can track for a long time. But it's heavy and requires some setup. The K-5 can also take the cheap inteval timer, but for the K-r, you'll need one of those, and this http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/trigger.htm, which someone on here just recently told me about. It uses the IR port of the K-r for shooting. It looks cool but I haven't heard about any first hand experience with it.

As far as lenses go, as I said elsewhere, the Canon 18-55 IS is decent. Their 10-22mm is also good for really really wide angles, but expensive. The 50 f/1.8 is cheap and great optically, but at 50mm, you can only image about 12 seconds without trails, unless you point towards the north star(or south celestial pole). Since the stars move less there, you can image longer. You can use many old prime lenses to save money like M42 screw mount, Pentax, Nikon, or Olympus with just a metal adapter. But you can't use old manual focus FD mount Canon lenses, they wont focus to infinity. If you get a Pentax, you can use all old k-mount lenses, and m42 mount lenses with a cheap adapter as well. Old prime lenses are usually much better than the old zoom lenses.

To save money you could also get a used Canon XS better yet an XSi. They are both decent for astro. You definitely want Live view to help in focusing, which they both have it.

Some good concrete advice here: http://www.backyardastronomy.com/Backyard_Astronomy/BAG_Blog/Entries/2009/12/10_I_Want_to_Shoot_Deep-Space_Objects!.html
here http://astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TOC_AP.HTM . For more stuff. Also have a look at the cloudynights.com forums' astrohphotography section.

Let me know what further questions you have.

I wrote an article on intro DSLR kits on Amazon. I wouldn't bother unless you bundled them with your camera.

They're definitely crappy extra toys, but they may help you learn more about photography (by showing you how things make your image quality worse); but they also were kind of fun at the beginning and encouraged me to get out and shake the bugs off and dig into learning how to shoot good photos (and how extra toys don't really help). Everyone takes shitty photos at the start anyway, so you're not missing much; and it's not a ton of extra money over grabbing a body/kit lens/good SD card; but if you already have your camera kit, you can skip it for sure.

DO NOT USE THOSE TRIPODS!

Those are strong enough for point and shoot cameras at most. Especially with a telephoto lens, the tilt arm is likely to fail and it'll fall on sensitive optical mechanics. Those are in the $10 price range. Spend at the very least closer to $30 on a tripod, and a $100-ish tripod will be a safe, and useful tool to use with your precision imaging equipment.

tl;dr - Sure, it's a waste of a little money, but they can be kind of fun toys. Burn the tripod.

Stuff I'd suggest getting:

• 2-3 nice SD cards: Class 10, 32-64 GB each
  
  
• Another few cheaper (but still fast) SD cards: 4-8 GB
  
  
• Solid tripod. $30 or $100 is well worth the money
  
  
• Rocket blower. Avoid touching the lens, whenever possible and never touch the sensor. A lens cloth should be plenty. Avoid being tempted to use a wet cleaning kit on the lens or the sensor if possible
  
  
• I love my big, cheap camera bag. I have 3 lenses, and a speedlight and this is perfect for me. I wear it across my chest and carry it on my lower back where it's out of the way and easy to deal with 95% of the time.
  
  
• An Intervalometer that matches your camera
  
  
• Manual flash that can tilt & swivel
  
  
• Flash triggers are fun and work great with those cheap $10 tripods. Check Strobist.com for great tutorials and inspiration
  
  
• Flash gels can be fun creative tools too. Can you tell I'm getting into playing with off-camera speedlights?

• I'm probably posting a cliche photography gift here but I absolutely love mine: Lens Mug
  
  
  
• Can't go wrong with a BlackRapid Strap
  
  
  
• If your brother takes a lot of landscapes and doesn't already have this must have tool in his gear which he should: Camera Remote Timer
  
  
  
• If he's always on the go and seems struggle w/ carrying his tripod everywhere, I recommend getting him a Gorilla Pod
  
  
• If he doesn't already have a great backpack for travelling while he is shooting his landscapes, I recommend Amazons Backpack for holding his gear. It's essentially a generic version of Canon's basic backpack.
  
  
  You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
  Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.
  
  
  I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.
  
  Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!

Wow! You did an excellent job of explaining how DSLR users can easily get into astrophotography. Those are some great example pics too. I like the details like the icons for the equipment needed for subject you are discussing. I agree this should go in the sidebar here.

While following the links you provided I noticed that Gary Seronik, who wrote the howto on the barn door tracker, has posted another simpler design on his blog. I haven't built one yet but it's on the ToDo list.

And wow, that Dark Skies Finder site is amazing. Thanks a bunch for that link. I am thinking of heading to South Dakota to get me some dark skies. Any advice on getting a shot of an aurora? Go further north I suspect.

I'm not sure if you use affiliate links to Amazon but I like that method of supporting a web site. I'm using a $15 knock-off timer/trigger that you might want to link to. It's not fancy but it doesn't need to be.

Also, thanks for posting the Photoshop tutorials in 1080p. Great job. Subscribed!

> I screwed up the settings by accident, but it's not that bad.

Here's an honest critique, not to be mean, but you seem to have an interest in taking good photos. I started on a Canon 60D, which shares the same image sensor as the T4i. All of my images of Cleveland were shot with that camera.

This picture has two/three things technically wrong with it; focus, blur, and grain. You can solve all three of those issues by shooting on a tripod.

Shooting on a tripod will allow you to take longer exposure than if you were shooting handheld (because it doesn't move). Because you can shoot longer, you can also stop your aperture down a bit. Most lenses are sharper when the aperture is slightly closed a bit (around f/5.6 - f/8, but vary's depending on lens). You will also be able to lower your iso, which will help avoid noise/grain issues.

Also, when shooting longer exposures, its best to avoid any camera movement or interaction at all. You can buy a "remote shutter release" to avoid touching the shutter button. Also, use "mirror lockup", to avoid movement from the mirror swinging when a picture is taken.

I encourage you to read how to take clear nighttime image, find a solid tripod, and attempt to retake the picture. Part of the fun of photography is growing in your skill and this is a great opportunity to do so.

Lol my bad, I totally misinterpreted your original question.

Doing it with a camera is a bit more complex, but it isn't hard! Any basic DSLR would work. I'm most familiar with Canon, so like a used Canon t2i or something would work for you. Someone else can maybe chime in with other suggestions. Hopefully any camera you would get would come with a lens. Prices might be all over on this. You just need any camera with an auxiliary shutter port.

You'll also need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537801810&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+intervalometer

That device is called an intervalometer and it lets you take pictures repeatedly and at set intervals.

Finally, you'll just need a tripod for the camera. You probably don't need a super fancy one and can get one for less than 30 bucks on Amazon.

Put the camera under an umbrella or get a water cover for it, again, less than 20 bucks.

You'll need an SD card to store your photos on too.

Finally, once you have all of your photos taken, you need software to put the time lapse together. There is a ton of time lapse specific software out there, and you can snag that, or you can use Lightroom and some of the available plugins for it to create your final video. I've always used Lightroom in the past and it works pretty well but if you find yourself doing this on a regular basis you might wanna invest in the specialized software.

Hope this helps!

The biggest bang for the buck is a tracker. It makes your pics 50x better. Even an older camera like the 30D with a kit lens on a tracker is better than a sweet 6D with a fast prime lens on a tripod.

Allow me to refer to my comparison of exposure times. Again ;)

With a modest telephoto lens you are limited to a couple of seconds exposure. Compare that with what you see at 60 seconds in my example above.

Tracker's are pretty simple. Add an intervalometer, so you can get a lot of vibration free photos.

​

​

Oh man!!! Something like this?! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YsFxDb33SQZJT

I didn't even realize that was a thing!! Of course it is now that I think about it... I was trying to take pictures of lightning and I literally sat on my porch for an hour taking 15 second exposures manually hoping to get lightning in it. This is super exciting and not crazy expensive. I assume I can use this method also for taking astro shots? Ive been doing it manually for too long... Thanks for the detail!

I don't know of any tutorials off hand but you could just google "timelapse photography".

My setup was a tripod, Canon T1i DSLR, 8mm fisheye lens, and a cheap intervelometer.

A lot of newer cameras have timelapse functions built into the camera. GoPros, for instance. Otherwise you need an external intervelometer to trigger the camera shutter at whatever intervals you want to use.

My goal was to make a video about 1.5 minutes long so I made sure to use an interval that would equate to at least 30 frames per second in the final video, in order to have a smooth looking video. I shot for about 5 hours and came up with about 3500 individual photos.

To make a video out of those photos I used Adobe Premier and they make it pretty easy. I think(it's been a while) you just drag and drop them into the editor and it automatically creates a video clip which you then export.

To make the star trail photo I used a free program called Star Trails that stacks each photo on top of one another but only adds in differences between them. Photoshop can do this as well.

That one will work, but there are many less expensive options that are the exact same product, just branded differently.

I have this version, (as you can see, it's the same product) - only $18 - which works beautifully for any kind of intervalometry (time lapses) and also, the main button will trip the shutter remotely. If you have the camera in bulb mode, it's great for fireworks, since you can hold the shutter open as long as you like.

If you don't need any kind of intervalometry or programmability, but need to be able to hold the shutter open manually, this one is even cheaper yet. It's the one I use for fireworks.

Are you using a kit lens? If so, recommend upgrading to a better lens. I have a sigma lens that I’ve been quite happy with. It’s just an all around lens. Nothing specialized. I also am using a rebel T3. If you can afford it, look into lenses with even higher f-stops. Anything to reduce the time you need the shutter open.

Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM FLD Large Aperture Standard Zoom Lens for Canon Digital DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6H27K/

Would really recommend a tripod and a remote shutter to minimize camera shake. Even pressing the shutter button can jostle the camera enough to ruin a photo. You can use the timer but that can slow you down and you might miss a good shot

Pixel RC-201 Remote Shutter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TCMW7S

Regarding focus. Plan ahead. Get your focus prepped during the day by focusing on some thing far off like mountains. Then lock that down with tape or something. Also turn off auto focus. If the lens has image stabilization. I’ve heard that if your camera is already stabilized, the stabilization in the lens could work against you because the components in the lens are allowed to shift in anticipation for shake.

Get rid of light pollution. Turn off your display and don’t use your phone. Get your eyes as used to the dark as possible.

Hope these help.

Thanks for the detailed information. Helps a lot. Please read my comments below.

1. I already have this intervalometer. Forgot to mention that.
   
   
2. I have this tripod. Do I still need those mounts you mention?
   
   
3. I use Photoshop and Lightroom for processing photos. Of course, they don't do any special processing. The price on the Pixinsight looks a bit steep for now. I might look into purchasing it once I actually start taking good photos :)
   
   
4. The polar scope looks expensive too. For now, if I can get by with the bare minimum, I would prefer that. How bad will it be if I don't use this?
   
   
5. Is there a reason I can't use longer lenses with the Vixen Polarie? The longest lens I have is the 250mm, but I would be okay shooting at 100 too.
   
   Other than milky way shots, and maybe some nice night landscapes, what else could one do with a wide angle tracking? Those equatorial mounts are way out of my budget.
   
   I did look into some manual screw barn door trackers, but thought the Vixen Polarie would be way better than those.

> That pistol grip is interesting, care to explain?

Glad to. I put pistol grips on all my cameras, as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNM9O3kWAROpggh8o30jJwkWLvG35ulsi0SNz1bZWKM9G8bOaqHPlnEdk6rNyPYoQ/photo/AF1QipOHXQtZanqul6YGZ7AcJWQHF-62qBVY41KJ2jPy?key=cmJlbWJQRC1qNjhxTVFHZ1BnMG10djFwNjZXeWFn).

I use [this $25.99 pistol grip] (http://www.amazon.com/JJC-HR-DV-Stabilizer-Camcorder-Blackmagic/dp/B00MRNP2LA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) (remote cable included) for the BMPCC and [this $16.59 grip] (http://www.amazon.com/RainbowImaging-Handheld-Pistol-Tripod-Control/dp/B0054HD10A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$7.67 remote cable] (http://www.amazon.com/JJC-Cable-D-Control-Panasonic-DMC-GH4/dp/B00AF2PQ52/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for my Panasonic GH cameras.

> What's it plugging into the camera to control?

The grips plug into the cameras' remote sockets. This allows me to control the shutter with the trigger. The camera will run as long as I have the trigger depressed. There is also a lock button on the grip, so I can let go of the trigger while the camera continues to run.

Very useful, a lot more ergonomic than holding the BMPCC like a still camera - and a lot less expensive than a bunch of rigging.

[Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPsK_CMCdJxAiFU0a0cjoH3lNTeF6YAqVyvcpOHJ3cVQdAGo0xPucWWbXfgNxq1Nw/photo/AF1QipPoLGR1EQOVj0GmrCKAz7orc65NeQCcFQXldaro?key=bWc4VGVma2hWV1k3OFZMTFFrN1VCQXM2ZjBCSldR) is a picture of my run and gun setup - with an [external plate for Sony batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply-BMPCC-Camera-Battery/dp/B019LGQNMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) attached to the bottom of the grip with a [1/4" to 1/4" male to male adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Male-Threaded-Double-Screw-Adapter/dp/B00MLX263I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Hope this answers your questions!

I use these radio remotes.. that are super super handy. Best versions I've used.

https://www.amazon.com/PIXEL-RW-221-S2-Wireless-Shutter/dp/B01GO79SUU/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1481513759&sr=8-33-spons&keywords=shutter+sony&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538492951&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+intervalometer+canon This is the one I have for my SL2 (200d) and it's great! Cheap enough that I don't have to worry about throwing it around, easy enough to use, and pretty darn handy!

Built in intervalometer (which can do timelapse) is one of the things I love about my D7000.

For cameras without it built-in, you can get a cheap stand-alone intervalometer.

That said, I will be picking one of these up as I love arduino and was planning on making a trigger like this anyways.

You can use a manual release like this.

Or, if night photo is something you get really into, I suggest a cable release with a built in timer. Not only will it time your shots for you, but usually they let you program any number of shots. This is perfect for star trail stacking and the like.

You can trust me, I have shutter release on my wishlist. I'll use it for epic ninjaish pictures.

trust =D

something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1325360741&sr=8-2

I've got the magic lantern now on my camera, but haven't took the timelapse function for a spin. ML is free, you might want to try that for a built in solution.

I have the SL2 and as noted here you can use bulb mode for exposures longer than 30 secs. The app will facilitate this or a remote trigger as well. I just got one last week and just testing it, it looks like it works as advertised.

This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY

Edit: Looks like its same as one below lol

Certainly! For example, it comes with an intervalometer, which would normally costs $20-40 on its own. Everything I mentioned in my original comment (except movie remap) works for photo mode as well. Honestly, there's no reason to not install it!

Blur can happen on a tripod if the tripod move slightly as you press the shutter.
If your camera supports it, buy a remote shutter release like this one.
They're <$10 and are quite useful. I also use them for night time photography.

> or buy an intervalometer.

Definitely the best, and relatively cheap, option if one doesn't want to muck around with firmware.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q9RERY

The Canon 450D can do longer than 30 seconds in BULB mode. In manual mode, just keep turning the exposure dial and after 30" you should see BULB. You will now need either software (BackyardEOS) or an intervalometer (something like this) to set the exposure timing in BULB mode.

As for your other question: one 5 minute exposure will resolve more signal than ten 30 second exposures. All other things equal the 5 minute exposure is better, but to get that 5 min. exposure you would probably need a good mount, accurate polar alignment, maybe autoguiding, etc.

Thank you! here are the links:
the Meade OTA:
https://www.meade.com/130mm-series-6000-ed-triplet-apo.html

the camera:
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Rebel-Digital-Body-Only/dp/B00T3ERM4Q

The mount:
https://www.telescope.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=9829&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5fDWBRDaARIsAA5uWTjTvAqQWRGsD6_HlP8XjBAoUr5gm0qBZ2qC5-tJijaeWST9Js_qidkaAmJ7EALw_wcB

The mount dual axis drive mount:
https://www.telescope.com/Orion-Dual-Axis-TrueTrack-Telescope-Drive/p/7832.uts

The mount polar finder:
https://www.telescope.com/Orion-Polar-Alignment-Scope-for-SkyView-ProAtlas-Mounts/p/7330.uts

The remote shutter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXRMXLJ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think this is all, let me know if you need anything else! :)

If you're just looking for a timelapse, you can buy an intervalometer off of amazon for pretty cheap for most DSLRs. you may be able to get a cheap dslr for $200 or so with a kit lens off of craigslist, and then buy a decent tripod, intervalometer, and an AC Adapter kit. You could probably get everything for less than $400, easily.



my canon version is this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492476395&sr=1-1&keywords=intervalometer+canon

1. Set your drive mode to burst.
   
2. Set your exposure mode to manual.
   
3. Set the shutter speed to 5 seconds as a test (Looks like 5" in the LCD)
   
4. Leave the lens cap on.
   
5. Hold down the shutter button and see what happens.
   
   Now pretend you had selected 30 seconds in step 5. That's all there is to it. You can hold the button down forever and it will take one 30 second shot every 30 seconds.
   
   The question is: How do you hold the button down for so long without having to actually hold the button down? That's what a remote release is for. Most of them have a mechanism to hold the button down for you. Usually you hold the button down then slide a switch up while still holding it down. The switch locks it into place.
   
   I don't know if the IR remote you have as a "Hold" feature. It might not. But a wired remote release is very cheap. Here's one for under $7. Notice that the plate surrounding the button is actually a switch that locks the button down if you slide it upward.
   
   However, if you're going to spend money, you may as well get a fancy one! That one is programmable, and will still work like I said above, even with no batteries. When programmed, you can do all sorts of things with it: time lapse, delayed shots, timed bulb shots. Even repeated, timed bulb shots, so you can take repeated exposures longer than 30 seconds, if you wish.

http://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Powershot-Compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VJA/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1373244043&sr=8-12&keywords=canon+remote

best investment I've made for my camera for long exposures (aside from tripod). I know there are Nikon ones about the same price

I just bought a Neewer. Works great with my T5.

For printing, obviously. /s

It looks to me like a typical "remote shutter" button for a camera, except of course that it says "PRINT" for some reason. I feel like I recognize that logo as being related to some sort of scanner technology or something, so hopefully someone else will recognize it and chime in.

The only thing I can think of at the moment would be a remote for operating some sort of image enlarger... that's the only thing that comes to mind that might need a remote to make it "print".

On the side of your camera there is a little port that looks like a smaller headphone jack. You get a remote control that plugs into that. Then you set the remote to take a picture every X seconds for Y shots. For instance, you could set it to take a picture every 6 seconds for 300 shots, which would take 30 minutes. Once you have your pictures, you use video editing software to create a video out of the frames, and voila, a time lapse video is born. In this case, you would have condensed 30 minutes into about 10 seconds, at 30 frames per second. That make sense?

Example remote [amazon]

The upper port on the left

1. you need to buy an intervolameter to attach to your Canon so you can go beyond the 30 second limitation. I used one of these regularly.
   
   
2. In PixInsight the red is the mask, so you can see what's masked and what's not masked. There's a dropdown at the top under Mask to allow you to show mask, unshow mask, invert mask, etc. If you're mask is too red, then you just need to adjust it before applying. It's also possible you've created a non-linear mask, which will cover up more stuff than a mask that's linear. Create a linear mask in how you want it, then apply a histogram transformation to it to make it linear, and then apply it.
   
   I might try your data later, I'm not on my computer with PixInsight on it at the moment.

Good timer/intervalometer I can get for my camera? I've been using one from Apperature up until it just recently broke. Anything better I could get?

You're looking for an intervalometer, and luckily they tend to be relatively inexpensive.

You can also pick up something like this pretty cheap, and just set it up to continuously take shots at your specified settings (0 interval).

I mean, if you're too lazy to sit there pressing the shutter release every 5-10 seconds.

This was shot on a Canon 5d Mark II with a Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8. These were taken at 16mm, f/2.8, 25 seconds (I think). There are 250 photos in this sequence.

I used an iOptron SkyTracker Pro on a tripod for the tracking. The stars aren't supposed to move that much, but my camera set up weighs more than the recommended weight for the mount and I didn't have a counterweight. I used a cheap intervalometer.

Oh. An intervalometer is about $20 USD for a Cannon camera.

Here's one on Amazon

It just seems better to use octoprint for me.

Here's a cheap one. I got the same thing for my camera just the one for sony instead. It does the job nothing really to say other than that lol.

The $20 Neewer intervalometer on Amazon is pretty hard to beat. It has several program modes and will work without batteries as a simple wired remote.

Just find the version that has the plug you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q9RERY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503934437&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+intervalometer&dpPl=1&dpID=41QMUZcPaLL&ref=plSrch

If you want to do automated HDR, look at a Pluto Trigger. It's pricey at $124 with a cable, but it works via Bluetooth and an app on your phone. 19 different trigger modes and extensible via ports.

https://plutotrigger.com/products/pluto-trigger?variant=26846149447

Do you shoot nikon or canon or etc? What camera?

For mac, Sofortbild is pretty cool. For nikons.
http://www.sofortbildapp.com/



If you shoot canon, consider checking out Canon's EOS utility.


Both of these should let you do timelapsing. My cameras have a built in interval timer, so I just used that for convenience.


If you shoot canon, you can also use a remote control unit that acts as the timelapse controller.
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1323590140&sr=8-2

Hope this helps.

You may be able to get something like this for your DSLR. http://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Powershot-Compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VJA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1326320491&sr=1-1-spell

I use one of these and they work really well:

Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control

I'd grab an intervalometer from Amazon, and if possible set your focus ahead of time (set up your bike in the spot you want focus) use f/8 if possible. Have the intervalometer to start ripping away photos (can have it go continuously until manually stopped), make a run or two and go check it afterwards.

You could also consider buying a remote shutter release (Here is what I bought for $20).

Having to press the shutter button will shake your camera and possibly make for a more frustrating imaging session, but using one of these lets you time shots and take pics without having to touch the camera body. I haven't personally used BackyardEOS or any of the apps but they offer similar (and more) benefits.

One of these should work fine for you. (this is what I use for astrophotography on Canon gear) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Hasselblad-PowerShot-x/dp/B004FKYBJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482778814&sr=8-2

If you have an Android phone you can also connect it via an OTG cable and use the android device to trigger it: http://petapixel.com/2013/03/21/give-your-dslr-a-brain-by-connecting-an-android-phone/

This is not a bad purchase

http://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Powershot-Compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VJA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376081142&sr=8-1&keywords=canon-intervalometer

If you're not comfortable changing the firmware on your camera, an intervalometer like this one is a cheap solution to taking a series of exposures without needing to be near the camera.

You could use the HDMI cable to a converter box a capture devise.

The other thing you might want to invest in is an intervalometer. It's how pros do time lapse. I use this one from Amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PFYKGW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=thelocaprod-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003PFYKGW

You'll have to buy a third-party remote control that is compatible with your camera's remote port. I'm not vouching for it (I don't know how good/reliable it is), but here's an example of what you are looking for.

I'd spend $14 and get this. It's a remote and intervalometer.

I prefer the $17 version

What do you think of this?

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=pd_cp_p_0

I actually just ordered one of these for my camera to see if it can do what I am thinking. Dunno but will give it a shot!

You might look into this camera release. It acts as a cable release and a time-lapse unit.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER®-Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369785653&sr=8-3&keywords=time+lapse+camera+release+Canon

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003Q9RERY

or

http://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Shutter-Release-Control-Replaces/dp/B008FBMSWY

An external intervalometer still works

I'm just gunna leave this here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q9RERY/ref=pd_aw_sim_p_6/182-1305519-4191902?refRID=1KVN2R4PNFG0NKY533WR

This?

http://amzn.com/B00FP1BQ1Q

Or this

http://amzn.com/B003Q9RERY

I think a majority of Canon remote shutter releases work with most Canon DSLRS. I am wrong. Thanks /u/CarVac for correcting me.

You need an intervalometer. I've read on this sub that you don't need to get the expensive ones, a 20-25 USD one would do the job. I cant recommend you one as I haven't bought any, but others have suggested this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Powershot-Compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VJA

So to be clear. I could do this with any camera that is compatible with an intervalometer. Such as this one; could be used with a Canon

https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Remote-Shutter-Release-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VJA

How do you deal with the camera's battery dying? Are they able to be plugged in the wall, say if I required the camera to film for a month.

Does the intervalometer turn the camera on and off to combat having an excessively long video.


I fell in love with stop motion. My uncle gifted me a digital camera when I was a kid. It was just some run of the mill $80 but it came with a build in stop motion. I would leave it on my window sill and watch the moon set. It was wicked.

Thank you very much for your response !

• FotoTech RC-6 IR Wireless Shutter Release Remote For Canon EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 6D, EOS 7D, EOS 70D, EOS 60Da, EOS 60D, EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 5D Mark II, SL1, T5i, T4i, T3i, T2i, T1i, XSi, XT, XTi Digital SLRS(Replaces Canon RC-5 RC-6) with FotoTech Velvet Bag (1 PC)
  
  
• Professional Cleaning Kit for DSLR Cameras and Sensitive Electronics (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Telescopes and Binoculars) - Includes: Lens Cleaning Pen System + High Quality Lens Brush + Air Blower Cleaner + 50 Sheets Lens Tissue Paper + Handy Empty Spray Bottle + 3 Premium MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
  
  
• Neewer Shutter Release Remote Control RS-60E3 Replacement for Canon EOS 650D/600D/550D/500D/1000D/450D/400D/350D/300D/100D/700D (Rebel T4i, Rebel, Rebel XT, Rebel XTi, Rebel XSi, Rebel XS, Rebel T1i, Rebel T2i, Rebel T3i) Canon EOS 60D Samsung GX-20/GX-10/GX-1L GX-1S Pentax K20D/K200D/K10D/K100D Super/K100D/K110D/ ist Ds2 / ist D / ist Ds / ist / *ist DL
  
  Camera things always have long ass names.
  
  The newest Avatar comic would be badass <3