Reddit mentions: The best acoustic & classical guitar parts

Let me go point by point here.

1.) Its not that HARD to do, but it does take some time and a good amount of effort for what amounts to "convenience" of having OSX, but since you then lose HDD space by going to the OSX, that is a pretty important consideration.

2.) Totally understandable, I love my current case to death, and even if I replace it, I'll end up giving it to a good home. I just love how quiet and classy it is while still being clear that there's a ton of power inside.

3.) The 570's are more than enough for Premiere, (actually something as lowly as a gtx 230 will do) but just remember that you'd need to stay with Nvidia to keep the CUDA enhancements that Premiere offers. Newer Nvidia cards support 3 monitors out, so you should be good to do 3 screens and keep SLI on them.

4.) I have some reservations on screens larger than 27 inches; its personal preference, but I end up having to move my head around to see everything, and it loses its charm quite quickly. As for IPS, it stands for In-Plane Switching, and is a type of LCD manufacturing that offers better contrast and colour accuracy, at the cost of expense and switching time. (though the switching time is pretty well sorted by now, and is no longer an issue) They are much better for tasks that need precise colour adjusting.

5.) Windows key + D takes you straight to desktop, that made life so much better when I found that.

6.) I can't say I've heard of them, I haven't been following the audio scene much lately, (though I have a degree in audio engineering...) I personally enjoy using headphones for most video-based audio editing, and the Sony MDR-7506's are still the best in the buisness. I actually just watched some behind the scenes stuff and saw both Christopher Nolan and Joseph Kosinski (director of Oblivion) using them. I've used them myself, and there's a reason they're the standard.

Speakers are still great, but I'm going to have to take a leave on suggesting a model, all I'll say is that M-Audio's AV40's are great, but I don't have as much expirience with that price range. The only ones I do know much about are at a much higher pricepoint. (they do indead sound like the voice of Zues, as their price implies)

7.) Then I'd probably just replace your motherboard and CPU. DO go for an i7. (I normally HATE when people buy i7's, but thats because they aren't worth the money for a gaming rig, only things like video editing) Grab a Haswell, don't spend more than 150 on a motherboard; unless you're doing 3 way SLI or 4 way Crossfire, its not worth it. This is really all you need. Spending more really doesn't have a significant impact on performance. (and 90 percent of performance differences on MB's are from the board doing a slight self-overclock, which you could do yourself) Even running SLI doesn't really kill it, despite the lack of true dual x16 pci-e lanes.

You MAY want to grab a dedicated video editing drive, depending on how full your current drives are. (my 3 terabytes of space is almost full from all the movies/shows stored on them) Remember that 2 hours of film may turn into 5 minutes of footage, and that you'll never really feel comfortable deleting it, so more storage is normally good to have.

Also, are you sure that it isn't your power supply that's screwed? (just because it powers on for a second doesn't mean the PSU's good) They normally have built in protection from over volting and such. (and are a LOT less expensive to replace)

After that, take the money and spend it on lenses, some 39x39 diffusion panels, a couple cheap lights, and a new lens or two. (if you have a crop sensor DSLR, that new Sigma 18-35 F'1.8 looks sexy as hell) Even your current rig, if it were working, should be fine for Premiere. (just make sure that you have GPU acceleration enabled, just Google it) It won't be quite as fast as a i7, but within 20-30% of the speed, and that will only really show up at render time anyway. If you have all that stuff, save up for a 5D MkIII, download Magic Lantern, and enjoy your 3500 dollar Red One.

Totally worth fixing it up. I'm guessing it's a Vintage Modified series Jaguar, which are on the nicer end of what Squier produces to begin with. As long as it isn't broken, new strings and a setup should give you a totally playable instrument. If you want to upgrade parts you have plenty of options at different price points.

First of all, this four part series of acrticles should be requiered reading for any Jaguar/Jazzmaster owner. Lots of helpful setup tips and general information in there.

tl;dr- Shim the neck and use heavier (11/12 gauge) strings, as that was what the guitar was designed for. I have 11s on my Mustang and they feel like 10s do on longer scale guitars; not unreasonably stiff. I've even been considering going heavier.

Hardware:

• Personally, I like the vintage style tuners that come stock on the VM Jags. I'd only replace them if they give you tuning trouble, and even then I'd just swap in some Klusons in the same style. I like that it doesn't leave you with sharp string ends; very clean and orderly. (How to String a Guitar with Vintage Style Tuners)
  
  
• You can swap the Squier hardware for a Fender Jaguar/Jazzmaster tremolo and a Mustang bridge. Some people have issues with strings popping off of the saddles on the stock bridge; the Mustang bridge's saddle design seems to help. If you get a Classic Player tremolo system (I think, might want to double check) it should have a screw-in collet, so the arm will mount more like a Strat. Other models use the traditional push-in arm/collet, which some people find to be too loose.
  
  
• You could get a Bigsby with a Vibramate if that's more your style. That may get a bit expensive, but I've done dumber things to cheaper guitars, so I'm not one to judge. Stetsbar would be a similar option, but I think it would require chopping off a bit of the pickguard around the bridge.
  
  
• If you don't mind spending as much as the guitar itself would go for on the used market, you can get a Mastery bridge and vibrato. I bought a set for a Jaguar I was working on at the time and it feels much better than anything else I've tried. When I sold the Jag, I kept the Mastery. I ended up selling the tremolo and stuck the bridge on my Fender Mustang and really like it; better sustain, no string binding when using the vibrato, much more stable overall. Just ludicrously expensive, unfortunately.
  
  Electronics:
  
  
• You can get a wiring kit like this one from 920D, or use it as a reference to part one out yourself, which might be a bit cheaper. You may need to modify the bracket on the upper horn and sand away some material inside the cavity to get the larger pots to fit. If I remember right, the bracket dimensions on the Squier Jags are different due to the smaller potentiometers they used.
  
  
• There are plenty of traditional options for aftermarket Jaguar pickups, as well as a few non-traditional options. All the big names in the boutique scene make a Jaguar pickup (Curtis Novak (He also does a Jag-sized Lipstick Pickup), Lindy Fralin, Jason Lollar, The Creamery (UK based and can have long lead times, but some very cool options), Porter), as do a number of less well known pickup winders. I've worked with both Buddha Pickups and Sunday Handwound Pickups and both have been great. There's also Seymour Duncan, a good solid aftermarket pickup choice for pretty much any project.
  
  Fun Stuff:
  
  
• Another pricey part, but I recently picked up this Hagström Tremar style trem from a supplier in Germany. It's weird and I love how it looks, but it's more or less the same as a normal Jaguar trem in terms of feel and functionality.
  
  
• If you want to get creative with your wiring, Faction Guitars make a bunch of different control plates for whatever your needs may be, including hardtail adapter plates if you don't want a tremolo at all. I've also found their Slider Switch Spacers to be helpful on some builds. It makes the switches less immediately accessible, but also less likely to be engaged while strumming.
  
  
• The two way slider switches can be found in black, white, and occasionally red if you want to color code them like some of the old Japanese-made department store catalog guitars did.
  
  Also, come visit us over at r/Offset. We love all guitars with offset body styles (Jaguars, Jazzmaster, Mustangs, oddball guitars from the 60s). Lots of good insight over there.
  
  Edit: Formatting and spelling mostly

Alright, game time lol. Sorry if i overwhelm you here, its a LOT to take in without knowing much in the first place.

First of all, a budget of under 1000 bucks is not going to mic all of these things at the same time, and pay for interfaces, and software (like ProTools, Logic, etc.) So i'm going to recommend mics that you can use for multiple things.

The most expensive of these things is actually the software... so if you were to somehow find a copy of it, maybe say from your friends who like to swap poop decks and walk the plank, then we're working with a much more reasonable goal here.

Basically the first thing you learn in the audio industry when it comes to recording instruments - if you dont know what to use, slap a Shure SM57 on it. It's essentially the go-to god microphone for everything. That "everything" includes your sons snare drum, and even micing up an acoustic guitar, or electric guitar's amp.

Now for that bass drum, and bass amp, you want a large diaphragm mic. This Shure Beta52 will do the trick quite nicely for both of those.

Ok there. We've got the software, snare, guitars, bass drum, and bass guitar out of the way. That leaves us with toms, overheads, and keyboard.

For toms, this is where i'm gonna save some money. The beautiful thing about drums is that even with a lower-end mic, you can get a great sound with some tuning beforehand, and EQing afterwards. For this reason, i'm gonna recommend some Shure PG56's. And be sure to get 3 of them for all 3 of your sons toms. The overheads will pick up his roto-toms up above the rack toms, dont worry about those. I've got'cha covered.

For the overheads, i'm gonna go ahead and recommend using a pair of MXL 603's(2 come in this package, so only order 1 on here if you go for it lol). Now i'm really fighting myself not to recommend a pair of Shure PG81's here, because Shure really does a great job at having a nice flat response, but the MXL 603's will do their job as being drum overheads, as well as micing some other things like being a room mic while recording vocals if you want that kind of sound. (PS: for recording these vocals, you can use whatever that mic in the picture is, or even use the SM57 from the snare drum. The only difference between that and an SM58 (which is the standard go-to for live vocals) is the wind screen. So stick a pair of pantyhose between the singer and the SM57 and it'll sound great. Like i said, its a magical microphone.)

Now all these mics dont do squat without an interface. And dont worry, i haven't forgotten about the keys. Seeing as how your son is using windows, which in turn means PC, then we want a USB interface with at least 8 channels for your drums. Also, when it comes to keys, they're almost always just recorded with a direct in, no micing involved. This Tascam US-1800 interface will take care of that. You can also record directly into this with all the guitars too, if you want to get a whole band recording at once, while you're using the mics for drums. As an added bonus with this interface, it comes with a copy of Cubase, which is some software for it all. Now, i strongly prefer Pro Tools over pretty much everything else (though i do use Ableton for running tracks live), if you're uncomfortable with talking to those pirate-like friends, or just an honest guy, Cubase will do the job you want it to for those home recordings.

Total cost comes out to about 950 bucks if i add it up all correctly. You're seriously awesome for doing all of this for your son. I would freak out so much if my dad got all this stuff for me. I've used all of the EXTENSIVELY (i'm talkin every weekend since was 14, and pretty much daily in the past 3 years) but i've never owned them. What a cool present :]

First off, no need to apologize for inexperience. Asking good questions means you are gaining experience.

1. Now-a-days Squier makes a fine guitar, but just get it set up by someone who knows how if you haven't already! A good setup is so important to how any guitar plays. I would rather play your Squier with a good set up than an American fender with a shitty set up. As far as upgrades go I would think about some locking tuners. I think those are just drop in tuners with no drilling needed even for Squier, but I would make sure.
   
   
2. There are a ton of pickup makers out there but you can not go wrong with Seymour Duncan. Just browse around and take a look at their output and EQ charts that show how hot the pickup is and then listen listen listen to sound demos. Pickups are very subjective so youtube is a great tool.
   
   
3. Personally I love Elixir strings! They last a long time, especially if you have sweat like mine that kills strings very fast. That being said a lot of people don't like the feel of Elixir. They don't like the "slippery" feeling of the coating on the wound strings. If you want to stay with coated strings that feel more like traditional string you can check out D'addario EXP strings. Again it's subjective like anything else, so test drive and see what you like.
   
   
4. Oh boy pedals. Pedals can be a slippery slope financially haha. I also think /r/guitarpedals would be able to help you (better than I can at least) there but if you like distortion then I have heard a lot of good things about the Mesa Flux-Drive and the JHS Angry Charlie.
   
   As for your amp I do not have any personal experience with the Vypyr but if you like the sound and it is loud enough for your applications then go with it. Those are really the only things determining if you need a new amp. If you ever want to upgrade to a tube/valve amp I would suggest looking at the Marshall DSL line if you are into heavier tones and want to spend money.
   
   The pedals and amp are really based off what you like to play. If you are not satisfied with your current amp there are A LOT of good combos out there that are more affordable than tube amps. Andertons Music youtube channel just put out a great combo amp round up video you should check out if you want. I hope that all helps!

Most people aren't willing to part with so much money right away, that's fantastic that you're okay with it. It's a great idea. You'll get a far better instrument from Givens than Shar.

As for stand, case, and rosin I'll give you a couple of my favorites:

Solid stand (does not collapse) - Manhasset

Collapsible stand - K & M heavy duty

BAM Cases are awesome This one is a newer version of the case I've had for 10 years. It looks like this case has some improvements over the one I have (my locks rusted, but still work, and I don't have wheels, I've also needed to re-glue the inner padding once) but this case has an excellent "bang for your buck" value. I once fell on ice and landed squarely over my cello case (I'm about 200 pounds...so yeah, OUCH) and my cello was perfectly protected inside. No damage at all. There are stronger, less flexible, lighter cases out there but they'll cost over $1000 easily.

Rosin - If you're in a cold, dry area (especially in the winter) you may want to get a dark rosin, they're a bit stickier than light rosin. Generally speaking, light rosin is all-purpose. There's little or no difference between violin/viola rosin and cello rosin (stay away from Bass rosin, it's like glue on your bow and you won't be able to play well). I've used most of these and have never had a complaint. I currently have Jade rosin, but I'm finding it a little slippery and dusty for my playing style. I found Pirastro Goldflex to be a good starting point for me and I still buy a cake every now and again. You'll need a new cake every 6 months to a year because it'll dry out and crack, so you'll get plenty of opportunities to try different brands.


You also might want to think about a humidifier to put in your case in the winter, and some peg compound to help smooth sticky tuning pegs.

Hope this helps!

• [Wilkinson] (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VS-100N_Tremolo.html) trem. Drill press would be ideal for the post holes, but you could also just clamp a guide to the body.
  
• LSR nut. Unless you have access to a router jig, I would suggest a rectangular file matching the LSR's dimensions to clean up and deepen the slot you're going to start with a super fine cut saw.
  
• Locking Tuners. Staggered, so no more string trees. Super stable tuning when paired with the Wilkinson and LSR, even after divebombs. Those "F" tuners have a super accurate 18:1 gear ratio. I also like that particular design because they're stabilized with a pair of incorporated pegs that slip into pre-drilled holes, instead of relying on a tiny little screw.
  
  I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
  
  EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.

A nice looking guitar! Because these are entry-level guitars for beginners, there are a few things that can be upgraded for cheap that are totally worth it. For example, one of the first things I would do on that guitar for a beginner is to get some straplocks. These replace the strap buttons with ones that "lock" the strap onto the instrument, preventing it from falling off when you're playing. The next thing I'd upgrade would be the nut. That one is cheap plastic. A nut like this would make a world of difference. Last but not least, the tuning machine heads are low quality. Your guitar will need to be tuned way too often with the stock ones. Upgrading to something more stable would be a good idea in the long run. You can even upgrade the pickups for cheap. High end pickups cost hundersd of dollars, but cheap ones sound great too! Go to eBay or Amazon and check out some of the very cheap "single coil" guitar pickups. Basically all of them will fit in your guitar, and how-to videos are all over YouTube. Pickups change the way guitars sound. You can get them for as low as $10 and as high as $200. Experimentation is key!



However, when you do the math, once you start doing substantial upgrades, it becomes pointless. You can just buy a better intermediate guitar for nearly the same price as buying new high-end pickups (for example), which might be wiser than funnelling money into this one. But, upgrading this cheap guitar bit by bit will make you really appreciate the craft a lot more. It will open a door of possibilities for you.


I've been saving up to buy one of these. I've wanted one ever since they came out, but only recently decided to start saving. I want the black SL, but I plan on swapping the white pickguard for a black one. I've managed to save $50 thus far, which has taken an embarrassingly long time (money is tight for the foreseeable future). There are no guitar shops in my hometown, so I have to order one online which makes them a touch more expensive than I'd like. I'm certain I won't be owning one before the decade ends unless a handful of people buy my synth project's discography whilst it's still on sale (85% off).

I highly recommend watching this YouTube playlist about your guitar. It's about your exact guitar, and one man's journey with modding it - and destroying it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7FKqzVMbe4&list=PLR9ppQtzpJEvQVwK91ww572MWrMTAP7vX

Welcome to the electric family.

Here's a link. You get two sets of pins and a pin remover tool for $5.99.

Since you're just starting out, I have a free ebook you can look at. Typically the first thing you learn on the guitar is chords, but I believe a better place to start is improvisation. Here are eleven reason why.

1. You only have to hold down one string at a time, not three or four.
   
2. You get to play along with backing tracks and your favorite songs.
   
3. You get to pick your own notes, embellishments and phrasing.
   
4. You learn what it's like to play in the groove with other instruments.
   
5. You become familiar with the fretboard and the note names.
   
6. You learn to play notes in multiple place on the neck and in different keys.
   
7. You learn cool stuff like hammer-ons, slides, bends, and double stops.
   
8. You develop coordination between your two hands.
   
9. You'll feel like the kid who gets invited on stage to play with the band.
   
10. And chords will be easy because you fingers will know how to hold down strings and move between frets.
    
11. It's more fun and you won't want to quit.

I have a slightly newer version of that same guitar (same color and everything) that I bought brand new as my first electric almost 20 years ago. I still have it and really like it. I wouldn't be in a rush to change anything. Just set it up the way you want, play it, and then figure out what needs to be changed. MIM Strats are nice guitars just the way they came and I kind of wish I left mine mostly stock. I even wish I kept the stock pickups as I now think they sound good; I swapped them out for Lace Sensors about 15 years ago and I was never a big fan of them. I wish I kept the originals. I'll probably eventually pick up a set on ebay.

I did, however, just put Fender locking tuners on mine yesterday. I'm really glad I did it because it makes string changes so much quicker and easier. I didn't have to drill any holes and they fit just fine. However, that's not always the case with those. Take one of your tuners off and look on the back of the headstock. If you have 2 little guide holes, in addition to the hole the actual tuner goes through, you should be fine.

The other little thing I did to mine a few months ago is put on a set of Dunlop strap locks. I used the original screws instead of the ones that came with them. I really like these things and put them on my other guitars as well.

See this video regarding pole piece heights on strat pickups. Darrell Braun's channel has a lot of really good stuff on it including a lot of videos comparing pickups and busting some common myths.

> You can buy a Fishman TriplePlay Wireless Guitar Controller

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Or hit eBay and buy four beat up electrics for the same price.

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Guitar rig or a host of various VST plugins for DAWs out there are the better answer.

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You're not going to make your dreadnought into a vintage Les Paul in terms of laying out howling, sustain laden leads, but if you're wanting to lay down some filthy power chords, you can get the job done, more or less.

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https://producelikeapro.com/blog/free-daws-best-available-2018/

http://blog.reddogmusic.co.uk/2012/12/15/6-free-vst-guitar-plugins-thatll-blow-yourmind/

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When you do have some cash, go take a look at your local brick and mortar guitar shop. They're probably going to have a $100 guitar/amp package for you. Amazon has them right now, starting at about $85. After that, a cheap audio interface for your computer will make your computer much much better at handling the audio; the Behringer UM2 is perfectly fine for around $35, and you'll be amazed at the quality of suspended cardoid mic you can get for around the same $35 nowadays.

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Here's a bonus $8 solution: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Acoustic-Transducer-Microphone-Amplifier/dp/B00ADHKKZK?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 Keep in mind that you get what you pay for, and you'll still need somewhere to plug in.

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Good luck!

I have a very nice violin I use to play bluegrass music, and I didn’t want to install anything permanent on it. This pickup was recommended to me from a friend, and it’s been working great. For a $20 pickup, it’s discrete and sounds surprisingly good. Mine hasn’t given out yet after over a year of regular playing and supposedly it peels off just fine (although I haven’t tried to take mine off yet).

I’m not sure how good of sound quality you’ll need for your sort of gig, but it’s really not bad at all. Definitely worth a shot. Definitely have a DI box or preamp on hand, cause it starts out with pretty low signal.

Thanks Johnnie!

I actually bought, installed, and used for a season one of those AKG wireless mics at the football pressbox. Thing had a range of about 300 feet. It was fantastic. I love the idea of one with two wireless mics for only a few bucks more!

Is a controller overkill to start with? I wasn't planning on really mixing songs and scratching or pressing hotbuttons for samples or anything... I had envisioned. All the videos I can find of folks with controllers are doing ... a lot, it seems. I was mostly thinking about fading in one song while fading up another, with some DJ software to help me accomplish that. Then again, I have no damned clue what I'm talking about so don't think I'm being stubborn. Is this Pioneer DDJ-SX2 controller overkill? In the pressbox, my simple setup was this Yamaha G06GX 6-channel mixer where I used Line 1 for a wired mic (Shure SM58S), Line 2 for the AKG wireless mic, and Line 3 for an 3.5mm aux input usually hooked up to an iPhone or a laptop. I used a labelmaker to label the inputs and such, and it worked pretty well. I'd obviously like a decent setup for controlling the volume of different inputs, but I just don't understand controllers and the whole CDJ thing.
I'm also open to something "cool" where I can perhaps control some of the settings via an iOS app to tune the speakers or adjust the volume remotely, if I were across the room or something.

Is GuitarCenter a decent place to go and check out speakers and such? Are warranties worth jack on speakers? I don't mind spending some money up front, as this is an investment, but I'm afraid of making a mistake and having to "rebuy" equipment because I decided poorly in the first place. From an outsider's view, I'd assume that Yamahas are great because I've heard the name, I own one of their motorcycles, and their price is slightly higher which I could (perhaps wrongly) assume means it's high quality. What do you think? Is a DBR12 at $500 or a DXR12 at $700 worthwhile? Should I get the cheaper ones but pony up for a sub?

Thanks in advance, again!

I just put these (amazon.com) in my American telecaster yesterday. It was a zero modification drop-in and took about 5 minutes. I've heard that mexi strats take the same tuners.

I can confirm that the nut is 10mm. This never happens, but I grabbed a 10mm wrench out of my toolbox randomly without knowing the nut size and it fit perfectly. It was like winning the lottery.

Okay I'm going to make a copypasta for this simply because it gets asked so much

----

YOU WANT TO BUY YOUR FIRST CONTROLLER? GREAT. HERE ARE SOME CONTROLLERS THAT MIGHT SUIT YOU BASED ON WHAT YOU NEED

This list does not include:

• all controllers (there are even more out there)
  
  
• standalone/all-in-one mixers
  
  
• turntables/CDJs
  
  Prices are based on the American Amazon website and most of the time come with free shipping. Prices last checked March 14 2015.
  
  
• Numark iDJ Live, $65
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack, $89
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack Edge, $99
  
  
• Hercules DJ Control Instinct, $125
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack Pro, $139
  
  
• Hercules DJ Control Air, $144
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack II, $149
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-WEGO 2, $179
  
  
• Stanton sCS 4DJ, $199
  
  
• Behringer CMD Studio 4a, $199
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack Pro 2, $228
  
  
• Hercules Console RMX 2, $229
  
  
• Numark iDJ Pro, $240
  
  
• Numark Mixtrack Quad, $249
  
  
• Hercules DJ Console 4-Mx, $264
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-SB, $299
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-WEGO 3, $299
  
  
• Vestax VCI-400, $389
  
  
• Vestax VCI-380, $399
  
  
• Native Instruments Traktor Kontrol S2, $399
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-T1, $539
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-S1, $545
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-SR, $585
  
  
• Native Instruments Traktor Kontrol S4, $699
  
  
• Pioneer XDJ-AERO, $799
  
  
• Pioneer XDJ-R1, $826
  
  
• Pioneer DDJ-SX2, $999
  
  Hope this helps

Unfortunatly I cant, I dont know specific models / equipment here (I focus on electric and bass) and certainly dont know ones that will work with rocksmith.

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https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Contact-Microphone-Mandolin-Ukulele/dp/B00SISRMKC

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Better ones typically sit under the bridge (requeres setting up your bridge again):

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https://www.amazon.com/Piezo-Pickup-Acoustic-Guitar-Cigar/dp/B00771QSA6

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Careful with the one above, it has a small jack, probably can

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Those are the very basic / cheap ones. I am dubious whether they would work as passive ones are pretty quiet.

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Generally speaking, electro acoustics have a little pre-amp box to boost the level and take a 9V square battery so something like this (you can see that one comes with a mic and peizo:

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https://www.amazon.com/Kmise-Acoustic-Guitar-Equalizer-Amplifier/dp/B01N77TIYZ

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But.. they require mounting into the guitar which you probably dont want to do.

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I also found this one which is a little smaller:

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https://www.amazon.com/Kmise-Saddle-Pickup-Onboard-Acoustic/dp/B0725QDYJV

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Perhaps that could be just left to dangle inside the acoustic or with some thick double sided tape secured somewhere.

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Yeah sorry, cant really be of much more help / not really my area of expertiese.

"Is it difficult to find parts that will fit?"

It's not difficult at all. Most standard Strat parts like pickguards fit perfectly, and the electronics are good enough as is.

The only thing I would definitely do is a) replace the stock nut with a Graph Tech TUSQ XL nut (they're $12 from Amazon and usually another $15 to get a tech to install), and b) get it professionally set up.

https://www.amazon.com/Graph-Tech-GRC-10-Fender-Slotted/dp/B003HGQTIG

You could replace the pots, switch, jack and caps with higher quality stuff, but it's not at all required unless they get get noisy.

The CV 60s pickups are OEM versions of the Tonerider Classic Blues set (http://www.tonerider.com/classic-blues), which are very nice vintage-style Alnico V pickups, so unless you're going for more modern sounds, no upgrade is necessary there.

Properly set up, they are quite good guitars that sound great and are a breeze to play.

____________________

That said, since I am an inveterate modder and can't leave well enough alone, here are the mods I've done to my two CVs:

CV 60s - 3 color sunburst

Tusq XL Nut

Black pickguard, pickup covers and knobs for a "blackout" look

Deaf Eddie Chromacaster switch (http://www.deaf-eddie.net/chromie.html) 6-position rotary switch that replaces one of the tone knobs and yields 16 different tones instead of the Strat's standard 5.

Fralin baseplate under bridge pickup; increases bass and mids a little, gives it a bit beefier and more aggressive sound (https://www.fralinpickups.com/product/prepped-baseplate/#)

New controls, wiring, caps.

CV 60s - Lake Placid blue

Tusq XL Nut

Mint green pickguard

Seymour Duncan Everything Axe pickup set (Lil 59 neck / Duckbucker mid / JB Jr. bridge) (https://www.seymourduncan.com/pickup/everything-axe-set)

New controls, wiring, caps.

​

> If I get the original Rocksmith game do I need to buy the $10 bass dlc? I see 2 versions on amazon/ebay same cover but one says bass included. I am wondering for both playing the first one and adding its tracks to 2014.

If all you want to do is import the RS1 songs into RS2014, either RS1 version is OK. You'll get the bass tracks either way. If you want to play bass in RS1, obviously you need either the full RS1, or to buy the $10 bass upgrade.

I've never seen PS3 DLC on sale for Rocksmith. Only PS3 10% off deals for a single cart purchase.

> Has anyone tested the acoustic adaptor with a rocksmith cable/ is there an alternative/is there any reason to buy the band pack?

I've used this soundhole pickup with Rocksmith, and it works well. You also need a coupler to connect it to the Rocksmith cable. I don't use it much myself, since I stick to the lead path.

I bought this one for about $13.
smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018SA2CPE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505795105&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=guitar+bone+saddle

Yes, I did it myself. It's pretty easy. The hardest part is adjusting the height for a low action. Basically you just run it over sandpaper until enough material is removed. It's just a long process. It sands very easily, but you want to check your progress very frequently to ensure you don't take too much off and that you are sanding evenly.

Strat all the way for the Chili Peppers.

I'd recommend Squier Classic Vibe since they come with proper AlNiCo Pickups, so it'll sound great, and the main problems are the input jack and gloss neck. The neck is completely subjective, so you might actually dig that, and a new input jack is like $15 max, and it's about as easy as it can get when it comes to soldering. Even if you pay someone to do it for you, you'll still save money over what you would pay for a MIM Strat.

The one that looks the most like John's main Strat is the '60s Classic Vibe

If you have the $600, I'd say put locking tuners on to make string changes eaiser, a new nut for tuning stability and tone on open strings, and a good input jack since Squier's are notorious for their loose input jacks.

Piezoelectric contact pickup:

https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Contact-Microphone-Mandolin-Ukulele/dp/B00SISRMKC

Hi quality preamp to convert the high-impedance output to something with low impedance:

https://www.amazon.com/K-Sound-KK901-Pure-Preamp/dp/B0092S3XEQ/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=guitar+preamp&qid=1554409082&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-11

Audio frequency spectrum analyzer software (SignalScope for mac, i'm sure things exist for linux.)

Edit - it sounds like you want to detect these vibrations to quickly shut down the machining process? If you can characterize the criteria you are searching for and they are straightforward enough (i.e., power exists in a certain frequency band), an all-analog solution using bandpass filters, etc may give you the lowest latency. But you will have to be very precise in forming your requirements. For example, if your 'happy case' has -60dB of power at 300 hz with a 30 hz bandwidth, and your "stop now!" case is -55dB of power at the same frequency and bandwidth, AND you need to stop within 10 microseconds of detecting the condition....it's not gonna happen. There is not enough time to build statistical confidence about the change in signal power.

But if the changes are bigger and the time longer, you might be OK with analog or digital solutions.

http://www.amazon.com/Cherub-WCP-60G-Acoustic-Guitar-Pickup/dp/B004UJO41S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382391410&sr=8-1&keywords=cherub+pickup

I got myself one of these. I don't need to put it in the sound hole and I just pop this sucker on the headstock. It sounds delightfully natural and it's a cheap device that works pretty well!

Typically, they'll be sold in sets of 6, but some vendors, like stewmac or warmoth do sell them individually. I would just replace the whole set and take the opportunity to upgrade to locking tuners, if I were you. I'm a big fan of this Fender staggered set.

Your main concern will be the ferrule diameter. You want it to match the holes in your headstock, or at least not be bigger than the hole, or else you'll need to drill them bigger. Slightly smaller is not a major issue, particularly with the set I linked to, because of the dual stabilizing pins on the back that make the machine sit quite stable, but do require drilling holes for them on the back of the headstock. Most other tuners have a single stabilizing screw, which may or may not line up with the drilled holes on the back of your headstock. If the tuner(s) you end up with do not line up with the pre-drilled holes for the stabilizing screws, just pre-drill some new ones. Do not screw into your headstock without a pre-drilled hole.

I work in the music department at a church. I lead the children's choir, praise team, help with the adult choir, and even play the organ occasionally. I love that I'm able to do all that.

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EEJKSA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DAMP8OV5HKR7&coliid=I2UC6OA0EJ8O6N) would be very helpful to have. When I play my violin with the praise team, I have a hard time finding a place to put it between songs. If I had that, I wouldn't have to worry about what happens when I put my violin down (usually, I put it in a chair, but I'm always worried that someone will sit on it).

I like this one by Fishman. I bought it for my 12-string acoustic, and it's great. I had a luthier install it into my guitar and use the jack as a strap pin also. You can find it on Amazon (for example), here

I put some inexpensive fake dot inlay stickers on the side of my neck, looks reasonably nice and easy to see. Couldn't always see my pencil lines in a dark club. still have 'em on there. will clean off nicely when I remove them, if ever

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGQYRFC/

Definitely not an Affinity then. This bridge will fit regardless of the body style: https://www.guitarfetish.com/Squier-and-Import-Compatible-105mm-Chrome-Shorty-Complete-Tremolo_p_24704.html

You can use a graphtec pre slotted strat nut on that guitar, since it has the standard-width neck: https://www.amazon.com/Graph-Tech-Fender-Style-Slotted/dp/B003HGQTIG

The tuners are likely Schaller-style sealed tuners, so these should drop in: https://www.guitarfetish.com/Now-STAGGERED-Gotoh-style-Locking-Tuners-Sperzel-Style-String-Lock-_p_514.html

For pickups, I used these: http://www.eyguitarmusic.com/Artec-Power-Single-Pickups-SMDA35Hum-CancellingWhiteAlnicoNeckMiddleBridgeAlnico_p_1294.html

Not a traditional single coil, but still straty enough and completely noise free.

get a cheap pickup like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Electric-Transducer-Microphone-Amplifier/dp/B00ADHKKZK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474575710&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=neewer+pickup+to+usb

and a instrument to USB cable like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Guitar-Cable-Adapter-Recording/dp/B00834KJ60/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474575710&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=neewer+pickup+to+usb

Plus a $6 female to female adapter and your all set. Can play rocksmith with it or use amp and fx modelers on your computer using your acoustic.

I recently got this pickup and I keep it on the headstock. I think it sounds good and it works if you are on a budget. I don't really know much about the pickup you linked to, but it looks like it should work fine!

Fender Locking Tuners. I believe they are Schaller, but made in Taiwan. Fender has some sort of arrangement with Schaller so they can make Schaller locking tuners and strap locks in Asia. The locking tuners for instance are made in Taiwan and they are amazing quality.

Another vote for Ingles stands. I have one and it's great, it can be adjusted to hold a cello and has a built in bow hanger.

On that note, if you use a music stand, maybe you can just get by with a hanger.

I have one of these as well, which is more convenient than the stand. It also has a hanger for the bow.

How cheap?

You could start by filling the guitar body with foam, in torn off gravel-like pieces (you want an even filling that's not too tight).

You'll probably need one of those sound-hole covers to keep the foam in:

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Screeching-Acoustic-Soundhole/dp/B0010SHU18/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503384410&sr=1-1&keywords=acoustic+soundhole+cover

Then you are going to want a stick-on piezo acoustic pickup, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIN-Transducer-Microphone-Classical-Cello-Black/dp/B01M1GG05L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503384035&sr=8-2&keywords=piezo+acoustic+guitar+pickup

Stick it directly to the bridge, as close to the bass strings as possible.

And you will need a headphone amp, something like this might work:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-611500-Headphone-Amplifier-Guitar/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503384156&sr=1-10&keywords=guitar+headphone+amp

You may need an adapter to plug it into the pickup

This setup is not going to sound great, but it's cheap!

The DDJ-SB isn't much of an upgrade from the mixtrack pro. They are direct competitors - although yes the SB is better it is still in the same class. Both the Mixtrack and the DDJ-SB are entry level controllers. The mid level model is the:
DDJ-SR: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pro-DJ-DDJ-SR-Controller/dp/B00FB2VAY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421166733&sr=8-1&keywords=ddj-sr


The pro model is the DDJ-SX:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pro-DJ-DDJ-SX2-Controller/dp/B00MRX3NBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421166857&sr=8-1&keywords=ddj-sx

If you are DJing with Serato either one of those that you can afford are obvious choices. The SX has professional level outputs while the SR doesn't.

Replacing the tuning machine on a strat is one of the easiest things imaginable. They're just slid through the hole and secured with a nut on the topside, sometimes with an extra screw from the bottom to keep it from spinning in the hole.

It may be difficult to source a single tuning machine but now's as good a time as any to upgrade to a set of locking tuners.

It looks like you need saddle and bridge pins, you can buy these online and try to DIY. I recently replaced my acoustic's nut and saddle without a problem.
You will probably need to file the under side of the saddle with sandpaper if the action is too high. There are several youtube videos that show you how to replace and adjust the saddle. Here is one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbAGQk8iyNE

There are some kits that already include saddle, nut and pins like this one https://www.amazon.com/Blisstime%C2%AE-String-Acoustic-Guitar-Bridge/dp/B018SA2CPE.
Or since you don't need the nut, you can also buy the saddle and pins separately.

I'd seen a YouTube video where a guy did it - I was sorta hoping some other redditors might be able to attest to whether or not it does well.

I bought this for $7.20 - I may check out the subreddit in case I can't get it to work, though. Thanks!

For Gibsons, it is usually a good idea to replace the factory nut with something like this. I know where you are coming from, however a few tweaks is all it takes. I hear you though.

I use a Fishman drop-in humbucker pickup coupled with a Marshall 8" practice amp.

I don't care about cords. I'm not there for you to look at, you're supposed to be listening to me.

Why, yes: I do think the concept of The Wall is awesome, why do you ask?

Edit: what a dark day. Never thought I'd see a day where I was downvoted on /r/guitar for levity and my opinion, let alone downvoted without a reply.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CH9Q3FI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I made one a while ago and used this enclosure, it's the perfect size for a killswitch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W93IWQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the switch I used.

For the jacks, you just need two standard guitar mono jacks.

FYI, my son uses this inexpensive pickup, and it works quite well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H2007E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

I'm not sure of the price. I saw it in a YouTube video. I'm assuming they're less than $20

Edit: $10 on amazon

I love the sound of resonating guitars.

Put this on the headstock of your Washburn. Seriously, you'll be amazed.

(Protip: Make sure the round part is flat against the headstock -- if you push it on too far it will tilt up.)

I have a home-made guitar pedal I use - a foot-switch to toggle some amp settings. It's just a switch like this in a plastic box. It's been surprisingly durable.

Direct swap! Very easy and $50. Did them on my MIM HSS. I also did the American string tree and the fender bone nut.

Fender Locking Tuners Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8McADb32V80QN

Fender Vintage Style Stratocaster/Telecaster Electric Guitar Pre-Slotted Bone Nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FW84QMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qPcADbG4RM9BW

Fender American Series String Guides https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E2GMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aQcADb44ETYFN

Nope, just the Real Tone cable, one of these, and one of these and you'll be good to go.

This probably isn't be the best place to ask, but does anyone know what kind of pickup I need? I've got a cheap acoustic guitar without an output, and I just need something that works with the game. I don't care about concert quality sound, just that it can match accurately in the software.

I saw both of these on Amazon, not sure if the cheaper piezo would be good enough:

http://www.amazon.com/Cherub-WCP-60G-Acoustic-Guitar-Pickup/dp/B004UJO41S/

I assume this one would work, though I'll have to check if I have metal or nylon strings:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHKKZK/

Any advice?

It could be a problem with the indents on your nut, the piece where your strings rest at fret 0. Any local luthier could have a look for you and replace the nut if the high E indent is too deep.

Get a Graph Tech TUSQ Nut if possible, it will improve your tuning stability and help prolong the life of the strings.

My wife bought me Rocksmith a few years back to work with the acoustic guitar. You just have to buy a pickup and a female/female adapter. Might be a cheaper transition than going full electric from the start. Hope this helps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H2007E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_2cdBybDADR5HR

As for the buttons is that the unit you built? If not ask a guitar peddle guy where to get momentary stomp switches. They would be beutiful for it. Failing that some arcade buttons are good but make sure to get the ones with a microswitch

Edit: this looks good

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Momentary-Effects-Button-Switch/dp/B00W93IWQA

Also note, that you can use an acoustic pickup and plug that into the Rocksmith cable if that is all you have.

A ten-second Amazon search showed this. Just remember to get a 1/4 inch coupler and you are all set.

Hey I also looked into it. I had NO idea these types of things existed and there are some wicked ones on amazon.

I just can't seem to find simple white dots.

I have found these and thats the closest I can find but they look like a shade of blue.

Let me know if you find a standard color.

I used the same ones I used with my Strats.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L6GD04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pro-DJ-DDJ-SX2-Controller/dp/B00MRX3NBQ

This is a fairly cheap soundhole pickup. I have one, it is reasonable quality and could be used as a probe. I would think the vibration mode of the spring could be compensated for by the orientation of the pickup http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Pickup-Acoustic-Electric-Transducer/dp/B005H2007E/ref=pd_cp_MI_0/179-5378065-9933534

So I think I'm going make a Thinline Tele. Going to build the body and buy a prebuilt neck. What all hardware do I need? Right now I've found:

• Body blank
  
• Tele Bridge
  
• Thinline pickguard
  
• Vintage Reissue pickups
  
• 2 potentiometers
  
• 3 way switch (and tip)
  
• binding
  
• Switchcraft input jack and cup
  
• knobs
  
• neck plate and screws
  
• string ferrules
  
• Telecaster neck
  
• tuners
  
  I guess I should probably get extra wiring? Anything else?

They make momentary pedal switches.

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Momentary-Effects-Button-Switch/dp/B00W93IWQA

Edit; It seems some pedals have an “unlatch” setting.

Don't know what guitar(s) you've got but the first thing I bought for both of my Strats was Fender Locking Tuners.

and if I buy any other guitars, the first thing I'm going to get is locking tuners if it doesn't already have it.

Assuming you don't have vintage style tuners then Fender has Schallers or their Deluxe.

I have the Deluxe version installed on my Tele and Strat and they work great. Either one would be a breeze to install since they both drop right into the existing holes and simply tighten on with a wrench. No screws needed since they have 2 little studs that prevent them from twisting.

I would get a TusQ nut like this http://www.amazon.com/Graph-Tech-Fender-Style-Slotted/dp/B003HGQTIG.

Either your slot is flat and there will be no filing required (just wood glue), or your slot is slightly rounded and there is minimal filing (again use wood glue, don't use super glue or anything too adhesive because a nut is not permanent).

Also, to remove the previous nut, just use an xacto knife or similar and tap it out once it's loose.

Wondering if anyone has any experience with this: I'm looking into getting locking tuners for my MiM Telecaster and Strat. I found these: Fender Locking Tuners Chrome https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uwnpyb12ZVPH8

Fender Model#: 099-0818-100 it says "fits most MiM models" Most? How much variance is there? I don't want to shell out $100 per guitar and have them not fit. I mean a tuner is a tuner right? It's just where the holes are drilled. Such an odd wording, and yet it throws me.

Holy shit if you're buying a used SX for 900 (or a 2 for 1200) you're getting ripped off.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pro-DJ-DDJ-SX2-Controller/dp/B00MRX3NBQ

I see used SXs for 600 with flight cases all the time.