(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium thermometers

150 is totally realistic. Planted tanks are the best. I'm not sure what advice you've already received but 10 gallons is "big enough". It is just that the larger the body of water the easier it is to keep stable. 10 gallons is an awesome starting point. I'll take a shot at a $150 total setup, that is plenty for a planted tank:

• API master test kit. Most important of all important importants :). No really though, get one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496243&sr=sr-1&keywords=API+master+test+kit - $30
  
  
• 10 gallon tank from petsmart or petco - $14.99
  
  
• Aquaclear 30 hang-on-back filter - $32.00. This will eliminate the need for a air pump and sponge filter.
  These things are awesome.
  They are reliable, have adjustable flow, and make it so you can stack the media you want in your filter without having to go crazy expensive witha
  canister filter.
  They also come with really decent media. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495329&sr=sr-1&keywords=aquaclear+30
  
  
• This light will grow low maintenance plants easily and is highly reviewed - $17.99: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495518&sr=1-4&keywords=aquarium+led+light
  
  
• Cheap and awesome heater AND thermometer combo - $14.00 - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Submersible-100-Watt-Thermometer/dp/B06X3RYRMD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495598&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatop+100w
  
  
• Food of your choice ~ $4-8. I highly recommend Hikari Micro pellets. They are one food that my most stubborn will eat and they are small enough that no matter what age fish you get they will be able to eat them.
  
  
• Seachem Prime $13 - Hands down best water conditioner out there. MUCH CHEAPER online. Do not buy it in stores if you can avoid it. It will last forever too: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495705&sr=1-1&keywords=Seachem+Prime
  
  
• Hiding places and plants - $??? - The rest of your budget I guess. I like to build caves out of slate tiles and silicone from home improvement stores ($1.98/sq foot). Bettas like to explore and like places to get out of the light when they feel like it. Building slate caves is a really cost effective way to do that. Another idea is the super cheap clay pots. If you get clay pots just make sure you plug the hole at the bottom of the pot (the edges are very sharp and will cut your betta's fins).
  
  
  • As for live plants I have had the best success with shopping on amazon or /r/aquaswap. Some great vendors (and I mean great, the plants come in amazing condition days later in the mail) are substratesource and Aquarium Plants Factory
    
    
    So that is ~$120.00 without the plants and hiding places. That leaves you $30.00 for plants which is a great amount of money to get a very nice planted setup going. My 1 best piece of advice is to heavily plant the tank from the very beginning. The more plants you put in there, the more competition there is for algae and the better everything in your ecosystem will thrive.
    
    Edit: forgot to include cleaning basic tools such as a siphon: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496172&sr=8-2&keywords=python+siphon and a bucket :) make sure you get those.
    
    =D

This is all excellent advice, piggybacking off this with more Amazon links.

• I use this thermostat. It's cheap and works well.
  
• I place one of these on the warm side as well to make sure the thermostat is accurate.
  
• One of these on the cool side to monitor temperature/humidity.
  
• I have this hide on the cool side (our corn snake is usually there) and it makes it really easy to get him out.

thanks, very much appreciated. If you don't mind taking a look, does something like this look correct so far to wire this up to the home outlet and remote access?


Greenhouse motor ,will need to run two of these

• 24V
  
• 3.6amp
  
• 100 watt
  
  Power supply should probably be double the amp to run two of them?
  
  
  LED Power Supply Adapter 24V 10A - 240W AC/DC Power Adapter Transformer
  
  DPDT relay:
  10 amp DPDT relay
  
  wifi control:
  stinkbird temperature control wifi outlet ( I already own this)
  
  My assumption
  
  
• Connect power supply to the relay
  
• Connect wifi outlet to relay
  
• Connect relay to motor.
  
  toggling the wifi outlet on/off (by temperature or my phone app ) will flip the polarity at the relay(motor goes up or down)
  
  I'm unsure how the wifi outlet connects to the relay, can you just wire an appliance plug directly to the relay? The wifi outlet part would then not be behind any sort of power supply/converter if that makes sense.
  
  Also any recommendations on where/how to properly shop this hardware, for example maybe this "LED power supply" might not be exactly right.
  
  thanks, don't mean to hit you up with a huge message. I'm realizing now this is more an electronics topic.

I think the aqueon 20G long tanks are good to start. Only $20 during the $1/gallon sale. I would also want a heater, preferably an adjustable one, like the fluval m series (get the 100 watt or 2 50 watt ones in case one breaks do the tank doesn’t freeze or overheat too fast) a good thermostat is this one. A good temp controller (extra level of safety) is this one.

Edit: the type of stand doesn’t matter, just as long as the entirety of the tank is supported and the stand is sturdy enough to hold it.

You want to really have fun? make tank #2 saltwater.

All you have to do different is measure and pour in Instant Ocean. https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-Aquariums-Nitrate-Phosphate-Free/dp/B003SNKMVI

The only difference to your maintenance will be keeping an eye on salinity level. The salt aint goin nowhere so all you're doing is topping off with tap water once a week when the water evaporates. you can hang a small meter on the inside of the tank and be able to see the salinity level anytime without touching it. example: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrometer-Salinity-Specific-Aquarium-Saltwater/dp/B07BHFC68R

water changes are only needed twice a year, 20%, and you pour the tap water right in there like a freshwater tank, and just add a half cup of salt that's all.

otherwise, many marine fish are awesome, so much more character, and so many more options, seahorses and file fish, and stars, really cool stuff. Many of em will survive on dried goldfish flake food.

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/live-saltwater-fish sort prices low-to-high and check out all the other saltwater animals.. lots of options cheaper than freshwater

Ok thanks, I do want to get some RCS and I want them to be happy enough to breed a little, I wasn't sure if they would be happy when it gets so cold at night. Im not really sure how cold it gets, since my stick on thermometer only went down to 67f and it would always be off the chart in the morning.

Im going to get this thermometer along with the heater so I can keep a close eye on the temp.

Try something like this hooked up to one of these. You can get them from any pet store that stocks supplies for keeping reptiles.

You'll also want some auxiliary probe thermometers because you want to put the thermostat probe between the mat and the cage so that you can ensure the probe is touching the mat and won't get moved, but that will only tell you how hot the mat is getting, not how hot the floor of the cage is getting or how the ambient temp/temp inside a hide is. Then you set the temp on the thermostat so that the temp on the probes looks good. I keep mine at 96f and my probe mounted to the ceiling of my mouse's hide stays at a solid 75f-80f.

I'm glad I have some experience keeping reptiles, because otherwise I would have been completely at a loss as to how to keep my baby mouse warm. The heat in my apartment barely works half the time, and it's not uncommon for the temp to dip down to below 60f.

I use this one off Amazon. I got it on sale sometime last year (I can't remember, but I think it was ~$12 at that time).

It is working well for me, but seems to be pretty a standard autofeeder. If you can find a similar one for cheaper, it's probably about the same.

I bought this one on amazon that is working really good and had good reviews too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6V45Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eY8VAbK931KEM

There may be one with a better temp range, but its pretty close. Stick this on your shower head/pipe. Only costs $2.50

http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Liquid-Crystal-Thermometer/dp/B00026Z4PS/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

I have the KC2000 Twin model, and I found that around the 3-5 setting is around 38° with the compressor running and 42° standing(Air Temp). I would recommend one of these to help get the temperature just about right. You will need to record a couple of measurements to get the Air Temp and then with a glass of water and a thermometer to get the liquid temp. Ideally you want the liquid temp at around 40° like u/dwkeith mentioned, but keeping it too close to freezing can mess with the carbonation. Also don't forget to clean out the lines every 2 weeks to ensure that there is no buildup of mold or yeasts. I use this cleaning kit to keep the lines, fittings and spouts clean and moving fluidly.

Get digital temp amd humidity gauges. The analog ones are known to be highly inaccurate which could lead to you not knowing of a problem inside your bps enclosure. Ill list some more accurate temp/humidity gauges i use for all my animals/know work far better than analog gauges.

(These two links are for direct spots) https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B06XY3X7P9/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_rm?ac_md=0-0-ZGlnaXRhbCByZXB0aWxlIHRoZXJtb21ldGVy-ac_d_rm&keywords=digital+reptile+thermometer&pd_rd_i=B06XY3X7P9&pd_rd_r=f1b30844-5547-49df-95ff-ba0aac3561f2&pd_rd_w=Uchs0&pd_rd_wg=guzkL&pf_rd_p=d1a6ea92-24ed-409e-8e33-97dc5a8de815&pf_rd_r=TGRYA2JMNKC4SK449XXH&qid=1569166473&s=gateway&sprefix=digitalreptile++thermometer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RBPV8Q4/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(I use this one to make sure my heatmat regulartor thing is accurate) https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sxin_2_osp129-ac57b3ab_cov?ascsubtag=ac57b3ab-bed4-443b-8488-8e105122ba5b&creativeASIN=B00837ZGRY&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.ac57b3ab-bed4-443b-8488-8e105122ba5b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=digital+thermometer&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B00837ZGRY&pd_rd_r=89005af9-9dd9-4e80-a240-605a60d3d510&pd_rd_w=t3SHd&pd_rd_wg=c1tkV&pf_rd_p=33b90d57-4392-4d9b-9557-da4c9de25645&pf_rd_r=AZDN5TXKRQHMD5KGXTCN&qid=1569166451&s=gateway&sprefix=digital+&tag=thedrive09-20

(This one is for the middle or get two for each side as this one has worked the best to see the overall temp/humidity in the enclosures for my bp and crested) geckohttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/?coliid=I2O5Q9VJY092E6&colid=2MBRCC0QH2E8J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Edit: also whats your overal humidity in the room you're keeping the tank cause the cypress might be soaking up in moosture in the air which is causing your enclosure to be so high. I do still suggest you change to digital but it still might be helpful to know if your bedroom is the problem.

I don't have another filter though. What's the best way to have a temp tank?

This is the ointment. King British White Spot Control, 100 ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000S5N2M0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EYETybX5G03Y4

Here's a link to the finnex one:
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Max-300-Digital-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B007480AP6/

Also here is a link to my current second choice of hydor:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Hydroset-Thermostat-Digital-Display/dp/B0006JLPEK/


Like I said on the post looking for people who might have experience with these and could recommend one over the other, or another one entirely.

Interesting.

Well I think that reinforces my guess. Your bed heating is going wrong. As for why that is happening, this could be due to thermal issues on the MOSFET driving the resistor. Is the electronics inside the enclosure? It may be overheating and turning off, or something weirder like staying open where it should not. Or the bed temp probe goes wrong due to thermal expansion at the connection, or something like that.

In any case, you should try to monitor the temp over long prints. Octopring does that on my Prusa, otherwise you could use a cheap LCD thermometer, clapton-tape it to the bed, and record it with a webcam or something.

Or just contact the manufacturer.

It was just an old Amazon listing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041CL3PY/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8. TopFin is petsmarts store brand though so this would be the current model http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=fish%2Fthermometers%2Ftop-fin-digital-aquarium-thermometer-zid36-5149540%2Fcat-36-catid-300077

What country are you located in?

Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10

Then:

Sponge filter

Air pump tubing

Heater

Thermometer

Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated

As for hygrometers, the cheapest unbranded digital ones are far more accurate than the most expensive branded analogue ones. Any brand/unbranded digital should be okay & accurate within 10%. E.g. I have unbranded similar to http://www.amazon.com/Qooltek-Thermometer-thermostat-thermometer-Refrigerator/dp/B00PQ2GJNY/ from ebay & it's within 1 degree & 1% relative humidity to weather station.

I got one of these a year ago and it works fine use it with my tree frogs. Very accurate and has not given me any issues https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00PUC199E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a pair of cheap electronic aquarium thermometers to keep an eye on my fridge and freezer. The wire is thin enough that it doesn't mess with the seal.

You can duplicate this on any faucet or shower for under $3. Get one of these and stick it on.

Here is the desktop version of your link

oops, linked the wrong one sorry it's early. There is a more expensive one with a digital display
here