Reddit mentions: The best cotton swabs

Yes clean around wound. The flap has to go. It’s going to bleed when it’s clipped but that’s good cause you’re getting healthy tissue with blood vessels. Self-Adhesive Cohesive Wrap Bandage Tape by LotFancy, Elastic Non-Woven, FDA Approved, 10 Rolls, Assorted Colors (2Inches x 5Yards) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6C91ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qNCLBbBSFG2VC
Remedy and Recovery Professional Groomer's Styptic Powder for Pets, 1.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PJ55KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xOCLBbAKS8A0G
Stash Tea Original Honey Sticks 20-3 oz Sticks Individually Sealed Portable Honey Tubes 100% Pure Clover Honey Kosher Certified Individually Wrapped Sticks of Pure Clover Honey, Sweeten Tea or Coffee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I4PY1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gPCLBb9TNCZHV
Dealmed Gauze Pads, Non-Sterile, Non Woven, 2" x 2", 4 Ply, 200/Bx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63XDS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kQCLBbVN65JRZ
Manna Pro Theracyn Poultry Wound and Skin Care Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5XHK88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IXCLBb28EDCFH
Silver Nitrate Solution, 0.1M, 100mL - The Curated Chemical Collection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787GCSKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E0CLBb42XWGRC
SE CS100-6 100 Count 6" Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0ZY2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G1CLBbQDJ3WQT
10 - Black Twist Open/Close 2oz Refillable Artist's Bullet Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N59CU9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.2CLBb6123ZF2
Swan Isopropyl Alcohol, 99 percent, Pint, 16 OZ (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZCCYTWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G4CLBb3V54WRP
Dynarex D1415 Povidone Iodine Prep Solution USP, 16 Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005R8580M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G5CLBbMTA0YK8
Squip Nasaline Salt-box Of 50 Pre-measured Packets, 400 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009EXQLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y7CLBbW76XN59
Teenitor 3ml Pipette, Top Quality Disposable Pipettes Transfer Pipettes 3ml Eye Dropper for Essential Oil Pipette Makeup Tool 110pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JXVGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y8CLBbG25KBC5
Save A Caf Sav A Chick Electrolyte Vitamin Supplement 3 PACK/.25OUNCE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UQOZC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19CLBb3BFM046
Gorilla 7500101 Super Glue Brush & Nozzle, 10 g, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A7AVQKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SgDLBbTME6VWX
MedPride Nitrile Exam Gloves, Powder-Free, Small, Box/100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GS8W2HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fiDLBb1X2K42G
Panasonic ES246AC Bikini Shaper & Trimmer for Women with Compact, Portable Design and Adjustable Trim Settings, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005JS5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjDLBbY10CSTW

Think that covers basics. Alcohol, self adhesive wrap, salt for saline, styptic powder, gauze, theracyn (antibiotic for superficial injuries), silver nitrate (only use with wooden applicators- strong cauterizing agent), pipette, electrolyte ( 1/16 tsp to 8 oz water. If chick is ill add honey for quick energy then mix solution with food to make mash), bottles, betadine ( I cut to 50% strength with saline), and gorilla glue with brush and dispenser. Oh and gloves and shaver:)

This is a pretty solid technique to clean coils, but good luck "reclaiming" anything out of the process. You want the foil under the coil to catch the spent wax so you can just toss it.

Q-tips are great too for quick cleaning after each session. I got some of these ultra luxurious swabs from Amazon and I honestly can't believe I used anything else:

KINGZHUO 1000pcs Cotton Swabs 4"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734JL881?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot 99% isopropyl alcohol + table salt in a Ziploc sitting in very hot water works awesome too. Swish the alcohol and salt around the coils (or whatever) and it speeds up the process pretty significantly.

> I'm looking for a good cleaning kit and set of tools for this gun.

For a starter kit, i'd recommend something like this setup:

• Otis Cleaning Kit
  
• 6" Q-Tips - Great for the hard to reach spots a regular short Q-Tip can't reach.
  
• TekMat - Only cleaning mat brand i'll go with, durable, and solid for the price.
  
• CLP - Whatever you prefer, everyone has something they like/prefer. For now, i've been using RandCLP to clean my guns for the last year, and some ALG Go-Juice as my lube.
  
• Brushes - I don't use these as often as some do, most use them for stuff like scrubbing their BCG's. I only clean my AR's after a high round count, so i use mine maybe once a month when i clean my regular phosphate BCG's.
  
• Shop Towels - I use the shit out of these. After shooting suppressed i gave up on being real anal-retentive about cleaning, so i just wipe down parts (BCG, uppers, CH, etc) with a shop towel and re-lube where needed. I only do a detailed cleaning maybe 1-2 a year.
  
• AR Tool - Despite Tapco stuff usually being Chinese junk, their AR tool is pretty tip-top, i've had it for about 3.5 years now and used it a lot, it's held up wonderfully.
  
  I use a kit i put together myself for cleaning my handguns, rifles, shotgun, etc, for cleaning. My guns get cleaned differently, which gun it is dictates how it'll get clean and how often.

you don't have to if you're applying it to unpainted pieces., but a good acrylic gloss coat (i.e. using Future/Pledge or similar) can help it go on even easier. The gloss coat will also help protect the plastic from the enamel and thinner.

If the piece that you're lining is particularly thin or in a high-stress area you might want to go ahead and give it a quick gloss coat, otherwise I don't think it's really necessary.

If you're applying it to painted pieces, you'll want to coat them with an acrylic gloss first, or you'll likely have issues getting an even application.

The amount used for panel lining is so small that I don't usually bother with a gloss coat unless I've painted the piece first.

For clean up I love the Tamiya hobby cotton swabs in small and medium

They hold up a lot better than your typical q-tip style cotton swab and are easy to dampen without getting them too wet. I generally just dip the tip in the thinner and let it soak up a little (happens really quick) and then rub a little off on a paper towel.

The bottles for the Tamiya accent also last forever. I've done 2 PG kits, 7-8 MG's and a 1/100 Barbatos with the black and I still have more than half of the bottle left.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ykmzoobz6gw&list=PLMXLD2DQKuEt2MVDbxk1TB7g85acq-FvY

here's a set of videos you can watch.... instead of a spore syringe (used in the videos) you will use a sterilized Q-tip and take a few spores from your print that you order-wipe the print then wipe the spores onto agar.... or place directly into jar.... anytime you see a spore syringe in the videos instead-you'll have to use a sterilized Q-tip and spores (you can buy these Q-tips at any drug store) The process is easy once you learn about Still air box and keeping things clean.... is it perfect, no.... but you WILL be successful if you try a few times and follow the methods you see in the videos....

the "Tiger drop" videos are on this page.... scroll down to find them.... the reason you'd want to use agar is because the success rate is higher and the growth is faster....

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/20111637

Here's the Q-tips:

https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Tip-Applicator-Sterile-100/dp/B000BI3M60/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sterilized%2Bapplicator&qid=1565380244&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1

I use #000 steel wool to refresh my PEI sheet.

WARNING: don't do this anywhere near the printer or you will get steel wool dust all over your magnetic bed and it stinks to get off. I speak from my own stupid experience.

After roughing up the surface just a little, I use a handheld magnet to collect most of the steel wool dust, wash with dish soap and water, then go back to vigorous 99% IPA with one wet cotton pad and one clean cotton pad before each print. I can usually use these cotton pads for about 5 prints before I need to get a new one, but they are so cheap that two per print wouldn't even be bad.

The OP has done everything I did to try and get good adhesions (except maybe the roughing up the PEI bit). I now get great adhesion and one of my products has a 100mm x 100mm fairly thin-walled box. Before getting the adhesion down, they were always pulling up at the corners in the middle of the print. Now they stay perfectly flat for the whole print.

Wow already looks super clean!! Always recommend these xl q tips for cleaning down into the bamboo - https://www.amazon.com/Dealmed-Cotton-Tipped-Applicators-Non-Sterile-Pouches/dp/B01C2ZBNV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=xl+qtips&qid=1570815598&sr=8-28

Maybe try a different browser or a different profile on your computer. but here are the links...



Recommended Beginner Setup

• Top Airflow Saionara Includes the Titanium Bucket
  
• Espion 200W Box Mod Small 2 Battery Mod (Links to FastTech China Distributor, for faster shipping find a US Retailer)
  
• Pair of Sony VTC5A 18650 Batteries
  
• 18650 Battery Charger
  
  >Optional
  
  
• Pair of Extra Batteries
  
• Poseidon V2 Bubbler for Saionara Bucket
  
• Puffco Prism XL For Concentrate Storage and Easy Loading
  
• Bamboo QTips Stronger than normal paper Q Tips
  
• Glass Mouthpiece Highly recommended!
  
• Spare coil (If you get more than one get them without the bucket, one spare is excessive, but worth having around for only $3 extra. )
  
• Sai Molecule Coil
  
  It is smart to have a spare set of batteries just in case. Simply swap out the sets, so you always have a fully charged mod with zero fuss.
  
  Use two different types of batteries that are different colors to ensure they stay properly married (Always keep your batteries as a pair don't mix), you could also order 4+ of the same type and just label them with permanent marker.
  
  

  Arctic Fox and Sai Setup Guide >

I like the long cotton swabs to get the inside of a barrel clean, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9WDGV2/ref=sxr_pa_click_within_right_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER they work well and you control them a bit better than a pipe cleaner.

For the sac, measure the nipple on the back of the section, in 64ths of an inch, and buy the sac that matches that size, I like Indy Pen Dance for sacs, they also have the shellac you would need. So if your section nipple is 17/64ths, order a number 17 sac.

Decent quality hobby (or makeup) swabs will have a much tighter wind on the cotton, which means it'll last a lot longer before unraveling and it won't leave (as many) stray fibers stuck to your paint job. If they have something besides that default 'q-tip' style shape on the stick, it's usually a good indicator that they're better wound.

Personally, I use these ones. The pointed tip is nice for precise work, the flat round tip is nice for larger cleanup spots, and both ends stay together better than a regular swab.

I use a small THREE PRONG shop vac (1.5 gal when Im on site, 15 gal in office)


Im not worried about any static from the grounded motor, and the hoses are all plastic (to make one of my techs STFU about the arguments seen in this thread I even did a resistance and continuity test on the hose with a multi meter)


I will also recommend this:

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Acc_663-Master-Detailing/dp/B0182GXPJG/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=Detailer+Brush&qid=1575088980&s=beauty&sr=1-12

and these:

https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Cotton-Swabs-Count-Detail/dp/B07KVPT6V8/ref=sr_1_35?keywords=Detailer+Brush&qid=1575088980&s=beauty&sr=1-35

​

the swabs are good to reach through the fan and brush the top of heat sinks as well as hold the fan when vacuuming.

I've had previous success with cottons swaps with wooden handles( http://www.microcenter.com/product/360017/Double_Tipped_Cotton_Swabs_100_Pack). They look like this: https://www.amazon.com/SE-CS100-6-Cotton-Wooden-Handles/dp/B002V0ZY2Q

Use a bottle with the highest percentage Isypropyl alcohol you can find, such as http://www.microcenter.com/product/451968/Technical_Grade_Isopropyl_Alcohol_999_-_32oz

My process was to use a cotton swap dipped in the alcohol to clean up a majority of excess paste, then use a paper towel (I think I used Bounty) to clean up any excess.

https://www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B0017X1NGO

https://www.amazon.com/1000-Count-Double-Tipped-Cotton/dp/B079F9BYMJ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDK78GQ

​

Put some lighter fluid on the qtip, wet the pad and clean with some pressure what you can with the qtip. Use the other end to clean again but take also take the lighter fluid off. Get another qtip, wet the pad again. Take the straw cleaning brush and brush the pad / crevice with mostly not too much pressure (prefer the smallest one). Enjoy clean pads that don't stick (for some time (days-weeks-months)).

You may want to consider switching to a hobby grade cotton swab. The fibers are more tightly wound which adds precision to your clean-up. I use Tamiya brand, they have three different head shapes and sizes though I most often use the Triangle Medium (pointed tip) which allows me to get in nice and close for super fine lines. Here’s an amazon link to my specific choice:
Tamiya America, Inc Craft Cotton Swab, Triangle Medium 50 pc, TAM87107 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026IBC3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a5a3DbGPK3051

For everyone asking about the black cotton swabs, you can get them on Amazon. They're more expensive than the Q-tip brand, but they're pretty good. There are a couple options, but I have these now:

Daiso Japan Black Cotton Swab 200pcs Spiral head (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRYER61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OpZ3Bb9TXMCD7

Here's what's in my toolkit...

Polishing cloth

Fine Mesh Pads

20x Loupe

10x Loupe

! Canned Air

Cotton Tipped Applicators

Goulet Mylar Paper

Goulet Brass Sheets

Goulet Grip

Goulet Silicone Grease

! Careful with the canned air. It can be the cause of some funny and not so funny accidents.

A bright desk light with a magnifier comes in handy.

These may help they have certainly helped me more than i can tell you. Really solid build man like your work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFUFQYC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_d1yBDbJWX8T96

I use these 200 Count 6" Cotton Swabs with Wooden Handles Cotton Tipped Applicator (2 Pack), but at $7 for 200 with only one end, I think your gf's Muji buds might be your best bet.

I've had some luck with these lately for drying. I got 100 of them on Ebay for around $10, and they've held up well. Here they are on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ROSENICE-Disposable-Sponge-Cleaning-100pcs/dp/B075D9BF7B/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1520570935&sr=8-2&keywords=100+pink+oral+sponge+sticks

I'm going to say no. I was obsessed with them for awhile, and got them regularly for 7 months. I then ended up having a horrible reaction and I can't get them any more. They left my natural lashes (what's left of them) sparse, stubby, and damaged. I haven't used any lash growth serum yet but it's been 2 months and my lashes are still trying to recover. I use strip lashes in the meantime, and personally, although strip lashes can be a PITA, I like how I can change how my lashes look whenever I want, really. My eyes are also way more sensitive than they used to be.

I was very sad when I couldn't get extensions any more but then I thought of all of the pros/cons and for me, personally, there were a lot more cons than pros:

Pros

• Your lashes look awesome - basically, "I woke up like this!"
  
• No need for an eyelash curler, eyeliner, and mascara, just brush them with a clean mascara spoolie (you need to brush them a lot)
  
• Saves time in the morning
  
  Cons
  
  
• Very expensive upkeep. It depends on where you go, but my lash artist charged $120 for an initial set and then $55 for 3-week fills and $65 for 4-week fills. The amount of time you can go in between fills varies for everyone. Some people can go 4-6 weeks but for me, I had to go every 2-3 weeks. Everyone's lash shed cycle is different A lot of places will charge you a full set again if you come back with less than 50% of your extensions remaining.
  
• They're high maintenance. You have to keep these CLEAN and make sure you look UNDER the lashes, too, with a good magnifying mirror to make sure there isn't any crap collecting under there. I admit, I wasn't doing this (looking underneath) for awhile and I had problems as a result. Simply washing the lashes isn't the enough, you have to get into the lash line, too, but do it gently. There are YT videos on how to do this. I also got some disposable microbrush applicators to help get underneath or in-between the lashes. Don't use q-tips because the cotton fibers will get stuck in the lashes and then you'll have a mess. Also, it depends on the type of adhesive that is used, but for most adhesives, you cannot use anything oil-based around the eyes because it will weaken the bond and cause premature fallout of the extensions.
  
• I personally didn't like to use eye makeup because it can be a pain to get those lashes/eye area completely clean. I missed doing eye looks.
  
• This also depends on the adhesive, but you cannot get your lashes wet for 24-48 hours after getting extensions. Avoid sweating/working out, and you need to avoid hot steam, too. I didn't have to worry about this with the adhesive my lash artist used, but still.
  
• You cannot rub your eyes. I have allergies, so this was hard
  
• If you're a stomach sleeper...forget it!
  
• They messed with my image. When I got my extensions taken off, I nearly cried. Imagine seeing yourself with long, beautiful lashes constantly for 7 months and then to nothing, with damaged, barely there natural lashes. It's amazing what our obsession with vanity does to our self image.
  
  ​
  
  My advise is to consider pros/cons, and they're different for everyone. If you decide to get them done, do your research and go to a reputable place - don't go to a cheap place because you'll just have problems down the road. You can request them to do a test with the adhesive where they were glue on a few extensions and see if you react. The extensions are glued onto each individual lash a few millimeters away from your eyelid, but should never touch your skin. If you experience any burning or itching, let your lash artist know ASAP!

> At 16.16 a box (after 10% discount for buying the gun) not sure if this is a good deal.

New brass 9mm goes at .20-.25/round. Some online sellers are shipping to SF, you need to check Cabelas, Natchez, Lucky Gunner, Ammunition Supply Warehouse, Target Sports. I think they all send to "hippie" places. You may find some others on ammoseek. Or you can find a friend outside of SF/Oakland proper.

> they recommend cleaning after every range trip

It wouldn't hurt. Oil itself is not enough. You can buy a Hoppes kit and it will have everything you need (except the bore snake, if you want to use it). This is also useful.

> Any recommendation for trainers in the SF bay area?

I know Reed's has some courses but I never took them myself.

Do you use Q-tips to clean up the lining? I have these nice precision ones I got from Amazon to do clean up on mine.

Here is the box that is Rayon on Amazon, you can probably scope out better deals, but I used that link to show the box!

And here it is on Sallys

I had a coworker vaping buddy give me 100 feet after he got a 500 foot box from Sally's, just gave it to me, he said there is no way he can humanly consume 500 feet worth. It's an accurate assessment (I used to buy this in 1 foot increments from my B&M because I am super lazy, and 5 feet would last me a month)

Precision tip Q-tips work great for small lines also. They're usually in the makeup section at the pharmacy...Or Amazon.

Japanese cotton is great. I can never go back. It's super cheap on Amazon too.

I've heard great things about rayon too but I haven't tried it yet. It's also really cheap on Amazon .

Edit: fixed link for rayon

Precision cotton swabs + rubbing alcohol will do just fine to gently remove small amounts of paint from a small area.

Amazon has the Tamiya ones :
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Cotton-Triangle-Medium-TAM87107/dp/B0026IBC3S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499541597&sr=8-5&keywords=tamiya+craft+cotton+swabs
The Tamiya ones are expensive compared to any of the other precision qtips
https://www.amazon.com/Fran-Wilson-Nail-Applicators-Count/dp/B00015GWQU/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1499541753&sr=8-2&keywords=precision+cotton+swabs

They are all still cotton. I still can't find a sponge ended one. I might be imagining that is what I saw.

The Silicon Shaper Brushes are kind of cool. Not sure what I could use them for. But it is always good to know something exist.

Another thing I forgot: q-tips/cotton swabs, if you don't already have them. For cleaning up panel lines.

These work very well for tight places, which are common on RGs.

The second link isn't actually Rayon, if you look at the full size picture it is marked as 100% pure cotton. The only Rayon cellucotton on Amazon is the 3lb box here: http://www.amazon.com/Graham-Professional-Cellucotton-Reinforced-Beauty/dp/B001FRNU36/ref=sr_1_3?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1415978638&sr=1-3&keywords=rayon+cellucotton and the 500ft roll here http://www.amazon.com/Reinforced-Rayon-CelluCotton-500ft-44070/dp/B00AX8834O/ref=sr_1_4?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1415978638&sr=1-4&keywords=rayon+cellucotton

small - http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0026IBC3I/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1371298889&sr=8-6

medium - http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0026IBC3S/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1371298889&sr=8-7

bulk (not japanese brand) - http://www.sears.com/stanley-872-pc-dbl-swab-cotton-tip-50/p-SPM7528968110?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=41486:3:0

If you open the door you can use an extended swab to wipe the heads and rollers. Or you can use a head cleaning tape if you have one.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-CS100-6-Cotton-Swabs-100Piece/dp/B002V0ZY2Q

If your totally OCD try these 6" cleaning swabs

I don't really like my inoculation loop. I don't like having to "sanitize" or flame the loop and... I bet it would work but I just got a box of... https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Tip-Applicator-Sterile-100/dp/B000BI3M60/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1550087680&sr=8-3&keywords=Sterile+swabs so I'm not sure if I'll ever use it. Or I use a scalpel.

Sorry for the late response...Initially I found I didnt get many crusties with my rook. But when I did they were on top and I would just let them be for the most part. In fact they looked a bit dark initially and hard to see and I thought it was a weird darker bruise and not crusties which is why they were left alone for a while... I found that doing a saline soak after a shower can really help loosen the crusties over time. I dont use a cotton ball but I soak a makeup removing pad from shiseido (they dont have loose fiber issues from what I can tell) and I find that I can sometimes just wipe off any loose crusties or they appear on my pad after a soak (usually with my conch).

I have tried using a wet q tip for my rook a few times and found they were hard to get in the nooks (underneath) due to size. But another redditor posted these types of qtips (link below) which I recently ordered. Tried twice with no issues so far (but cant really give a review on it yet) but I find myself just leaving my rook alone or doing soaks in general if bothered.. Usually with a piercing... if its been a couple months (unless irritated) I usually go the leave it alone route, rinse in showers vs the daily soaks I start off with... partially due to laziness and seeing no need if the piercing doesnt hurt/or is bothering me at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Fran-Wilson-Nail-Applicators-Count/dp/B00015GWQU