(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best external sound cards

Weird the link worked for me. I just copy and pasted the post below, hope it's useful!



This is a guide that recommends headphones with an added mic and does not recommend gaming headsets (I'll explain what that means). I'm posting this because I found lots of info on headphones for gaming but not a proper setup for a console like the PS4.

If you're looking for a great quality headset for gaming, you might run into some trouble like I did. I define quality as being made with solid materials and having awesome audio while having a decent mic to chat with other players.

Options within the quality gaming headset category are both limited and expensive. Take a stroll over to r/headphones to get their two cents on how and why gaming headsets are often overpriced and actually underperform their ticket price. This post in particular was very thorough and linked out to other really useful resources like Z Reviews

When my old headphones broke I started exploring options for a new pair of cans. I wanted to get something great and didn't mind spending a buck on it. As I researched I began to learn more about different types of headphones and what they offered in gaming. The problem I ran into is that the best pair of speakers you can put on your head are almost all headphones, not headsets (meaning headphones do not have a mic equipped). But I'm playing on a PS4 so that changes the game some, PC might have some different avenues. The PS4 dualshock controller (as of 2016, possibly earlier) has proprietary restrictions as to what headsets can plug-in and work with it so creating a DIY headset (independent headphones and mic) was tricky. I tried a workaround with getting an aux plug-in adapter that had "4 poles " to use with the DS4 controller but it didn't trick the controller nor did unplugging and re-plugging in headphones with a mic. Others have had success with it but not me.

I ended up getting a USB to headphone and mic input adapter. This way you can buy whatever headphones you want and whatever mic you want and pair them together by plugging them into your PS4 USB port. You are tethered by a wire but I have read that there is lag with basically any wireless setup so I wouldn't recommended them, especially if you're into online FPS.

My setup is:

---Open air headphones: Audio Technical 900x ($130)

There are other versions of these headphones like the 500x for around $75 as well as the 2000x for $600+
-I would also explore the Superlux HD668B Semi-Open Headphones ($40) as they are relatively inexpensive have replaceable ear pads and have glowing reviews.

---Attachable mic I haven't gotten comments on how I sound which can only be a good thing. I have asked how it sounds and "fine to me" is usually the answer I get.

---USB adapter w/ headphones + mic auxiliary inputs

-Also you might want to get a USB cable extender if the phones and/or mic you go with don't have long cables.

I would venture a guess that most any version of the above 3 components would work together. I am really enjoying my setup and have been using it for about 2 months now. The “soundstage" on open headphones is a really different experience, instead of being closed off by noise cancelling headphones it now feels like everything is happening around me. I had a pair of beats Studios (gen 2) that were pretty good but I would definitely recommend giving “open” style headphones a try. The beats seem puny in comparison, not just in physical size but also in output quality.

I hope this is of benefit to you. I spent a lot of time researching, reading and watching reviews, figuring out what would work on a PS4 and deliberating on what pieces to buy. I am by no means an audiophile so this is just the research of a lay person that wanted great sound and is enjoying what they found.

TL;DR Don't buy a gaming headset if you want awesome sound. You can get a great, probably better, setup on your own and likely save a bit of money in the process by DIY.

Vive pro is THE BEST... I just got mine yesterday, going from OG Vive.

The screen door effect IMPROVED DRAMATICALLY... in the beginning I was like "meh.." but as I started playing I was like "wow... holy shit!!" Textures are much more real, nicer.

MY ONLY DISAPPOINTMENT... the audio, I hate the headphones that come with it, no bass... period. I wanted to use my 3.5mm headphones BUT you need USB-C to 3.5mm (active adapter, NOT the one that's only a wire), I bought this one on amazon because someone recommended it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076M57P8J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It turns out it's a piece of shit... but it works.

Then I tried to buy a better one, but it turns out ALL those damn adapters are shit... because they are small and cheap, or for whatever reason.

So, what I had to do was to on in windows and go to audio and try to equalize the audio coming from the headphones using the adapter the best way I could, I added "extra bass", and even activated the fake 7.1 surround from the windows menu (again, from the options).

NOW... It's kinda alright, but it's pretty bad. At the moment I'm looking at some kind of wireless dongle that I can use from the PC to send audio to a 3.5mm headphone jack that I can HOPEFULLY attach to the USB-C on the HMD... BUT I don't know if it will work, because I don't know if there is power there to feed the adapter or not.

I can't understand why HTC would remove the fucking 3.5mm headphone connection.

Lastly, DON'T USE the HTC software, just connect to the PC, it will download the drivers automatically, open SteamVR and... DONE, that's all.

Second Lastly... the SS levels are all fucked up, it didn't recognize that I had a Vive PRO, so it shows that 100% (which is the base) is 2416x2688 PER EYE... so, WTF?!? I thought the native for Vive Pro was 1440 x 1600 PER EYE!!!

Anyways, I ended up going -60% with almost everything, which was still high... and everything looks amazing! I cannot explain it, but it looks good, that's all I care about. I wish I KNEW SOMEONE who knew what the hell they were doing... but no, I don't know as much about this.

Cheers! You are going to love it.

PD: I bought the Index within 2 hours of playing I put it inside the box and got rid of it... what a piece of shit, completely unusable, so many problems it's not even funny, and people just "went with it".. give me a fucking break. I've been using VR since the first week. I kept playing with my original Vive, better than the Index.

A much better place for this thread would be /r/HeadphoneAdvice. I'll contribute my personal recommendation of the JDS Labs Atom Headphone Amplifier and Khadas Tone Board DAC. Both of those pieces of equipment are considered the best of the best within their price range and will get you a higher level of quality than either the STX II or the G6. That being said, I recommend remaking the thread on /r/HeadphoneAdvice to get more informed input and solidify your confidence in your decision.

PS: If you end going with my suggestion, you'll likely want to purchase a case for the Khadas Tone Board, as it does not come with one natively. As far as I can tell, the only custom cases available for it are this one, which is fairly affordable, and this better looking one, which will have the caveat of a moderately pricey tariff if you decide to buy it.

Well, that's the way I did it. Now I have the best of both worlds I guess you could say - and the most options to play around with. Generally a good soundcard is going to give you good enough sound that unless your ears are trained very well you're not going to notice much a difference between it and a dac anyway. For you, I would just go with a soundcard with all the options for now. I use this one and it works great for me:

http://www.amazon.ca/Soundbox-External-Sound-Audio-Channels/dp/B00K1OOGRI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451242229&sr=1-1&keywords=soundcard

Go with external to reduce noise and heat inside your computer. It just makes sense.

I don't mean to overstep my boundaries, but why won't you have audio for 1 or 2 months? You can get a USB sound card for like 2 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Islandoffer-345233-Sound-Card-Adaptor/dp/B0044EOQO4

and earbuds are like a buck at any dollar store or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-White-3-5mm-In-Ear-Earphone-Earbud-with-Microphone-for-iPhone-Tablet-Phablet-/351151963484?hash=item51c249bd5c:g:TTsAAOSwPhdU2wT9

My apologies if it's something like you are having surgery and can't use your ears for a few weeks. In which case, definitely use the subtitles in the game.

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> https://imgur.com/a/GM0mw
>
> Are these normal voltages for a stock non-OC R5 1600 at idle? From what I understand the default voltage is 1.25V so having the VDD go up to 1.4V seems a little abnormal, unless I'm missing something. I installed the ryzen balanced power plan from the driver downloads but it doesn't seem to have changed anything.
>
> I'm hitting 74C under 100% Prime95 load which seems to be a little bit abnormal for a non-OC R5 1600 so I'm trying to investigate why that would be.
>
> edit: clarity

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7x0ymj/daily_simple_questions_thread_feb_12_2018/du5rkrs/

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> Help me choose the dell inspiron 7577 laptop specifications. Ok so my main concern. Some reviewers said that the 2017 version of these labtops had a bad sceen on them but the new 2018 redeemed that fact. Ill be shopping on walmart.com but only Amazon is showing the years on them. Also the main reason I shop walmart is for the in store pickup option. But if they dont carry the newer version ill try elsewhere.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7x0ymj/daily_simple_questions_thread_feb_12_2018/du5sh6i/

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> So I got a new Mobo and had to reseat my cooler and fan. Ever since it's been running noticeably louder on standard fan speed in the BIOS. Around 1300rpm and 30-40 degrees Celsius. I thought switching it to silent would help and it did make things more silent but the temps shot up to 50 degrees average on simple Chrome browsing.
>
>
> Is this a fan problem, a poorly seated cooler problem, too much thermal paste or what. I mean, its not too loud but in comparison to my old rig, it's killing me slowly.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7x0ymj/daily_simple_questions_thread_feb_12_2018/du62zbw/

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> I've just been handed a free first gen 360. It's "broken" but I'm almost certain it's just a bad power brick. I'm debating getting a new power brick or trying to get some free stuff out of it. Is it even worth the effort to do anything more than use it as a computer case? Or should I just hold onto it for Halo 3 nostalgia

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7x0ymj/daily_simple_questions_thread_feb_12_2018/du68otg/

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> I have a Gen 1 Astro A50 headset that will only put out stereo sound(because my laptop does not have a sound card). Will something like this work and allow it to put out surround sound?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7x0ymj/daily_simple_questions_thread_feb_12_2018/du6gzh4/

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Pretty cheap on USB sound card. You'd want to use the USB audio card since it provides adequate power and volume controls as well. I guess it doesn't work with the phone though.

Also you will want to get it to ring (buzz) and I found this berryclip. This is important since the person will need to be notified and a way to pick and hang up the phone with the button. I'm thinking green lights would be for trusted sources and red would be for unknown and yellow would be for network traffic.

There is a touch screen as well for only $35 but there is only room for one "shield" and so I think that I'd rather use the buzzer and it has a button for answering phone calls as well. I like the idea of being able to see who is calling and to touch a proper screen though.

Unfortunately you cannot use that combiner there. It would work on something with four pole support like a phone but the fiio and indeed your soundcard will not support it. You have to keep the mic separate to a mic input. Luckily you can add This Thing to your hub and the modmic can just plug into that. Keep the headphones in the fiio.

If you can just get a USB 2.0 that may have better compatibility than the USB3

When you say audio adapter you mean something like this or this? I've seen some fancy amp boards, can one use them as well?

So you connect audio adapter to RPi, connect speakers to it and play music off a share or connected HDD? Or is there some other purpose in this setup?

Since no one knew, and Im hoping someone else who is in the same position as me, this will solve it for them. Astro TR mixamp works to control volume, or you can buy a cheapy audio hub like this from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T5BG7YK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I plugged the aux cord from line in to the mixamp, was getting a buzzing noise. So you NEED a ground loop, like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Set the audio hub or the TR mixamp as the default communications device in Windows, and now you can control incoming voice chat from Discord or whatever else. Keep in mind the G6 volume in through windows. So if you turn it up or down, voice chat will also increase or decrease. Hopefully someone else finds this helpful!

You can't do this, as far as I know, unless your audio cable is a three-ring audio cable. Chances are it's a two-ring audio cable.

This is because the port is bi-directional, intended for headsets like the once for an iPhone, so it needs that third ring to split the audio signal into input and output so it can route the audio signals properly.

Your cheapest route, unless your cable is already a three-ring cable, is to buy one of these: http://compare.ebay.com/like/271237442979?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

But that will only record in mono. And the quality will suck. The port, and the circuitry inside the MBA is meant for mics on headsets, not line-level audio input.

If you want quality, get an iMic. $30 from Amazon with Prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-7725-IUAI-Audio-Interface/dp/B003Y5D776/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374168448&sr=1-7&keywords=usb+audio+input

There are cheaper (like 8 bucks) options, but I have an ancient first-gen iMic and it works perfectly 10 years after I bought it, I don't know if the cheap stuff works, or will last.

Personally I just plug directly into the ps4 using an external sound card and a USB extension.

The one I use is https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CR4L128/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vSuBCb53KDNKZ

Not exactly a high end item but definitely has helped and significantly better than plugging into the controller

OK so they do not get you question i see. The real answer here is you cant since the headphone jack only outputs to headphones an the mic jack only accepts input from a microphone. The two jacks essentially go to different parts of the sound chip. If you had a laptop with a combination port like on most phones you could use an adapter but i do not think you have that correct. You can also use a USB adapter like this one here. https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Adapter-External-Headset-Microphone/dp/B0776QBWYB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537154993&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+headset+adapter&psc=1

I plugged into a $10 USB sound card and played into a torrented version of Logic Pro. It sounded fucking great and only cost me $10.

Edit: Now it's $5.

Is some ways they can be yes. The Asus xonar cards all have a design flaw that any kind of internal interference or single going on inside your case is picked up on the mic input. USB sounds cards don't have that issue but cheap one can sometimes pickup interference from other sources, however it's usually far less then right next to your graphics card and CPU.

Sometime like this, https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486575400&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+sound+card or this, https://smile.amazon.com/Channel-External-Sound-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B01LQENV8G/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486575400&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+sound+card will have a much less noisy input then your current card, but the headphone out might not be as strong or sound as good as the asus card.

Oh wow, it looks like it just doesn't worth the bucks. I really need to stay at the 50-70$ range, any other sound card that you get suggest me?
what about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Hub-Audio-Adapter-Microphone/dp/B07T5BG7YK/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=sound+card&qid=1564911461&s=gateway&sr=8-34

honestly can't tell you too much about dacs/amps, I'm new to them myself; just started using one this year because I didn't want to invest in a new sound card.

I could be wrong, but I'm fairly certain that every dac is actually a dac+amp. I personally have this extremely budget dac from SIIG, the USB Soundwave 7.1 Digital Audio Adapter. I'm probably going to upgrade eventually, but it serves its purpose nicely.

I also purchased this m50x bundle which includes a FiiO E6 amp. I'm probably only going to use it with my Nexus 5, but we'll see. for regular listening on a desktop or laptop, I don't think the m50x would need a dac/amp, unless you're using onboard audio or something.

for dac/amp comparisons and reviews, I'd check the reviews section on head-fi out.

USB 3 is unneeded for the low bandwidth of audio.

If you want a good suggestion tho, get whatever analog headset you prefer, and just plug it into one of these. I use one with analog Razer headset in virtual 7.1. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/ROCCAT-JUKE-Virtual-Soundcard-ROC-14-110/dp/B00UTMKCMK

Hey! Not sure if you found an answer to this yet, but I've been researching this recently as I want to use a better mic to record my bands' practices.

​

From what I found, you need some type of small sound card, or a TRS to TRRS converter with a 3.5mm to USB C adapter. Phones can take mic input, but by default, they won't recognize that it's an input signal. The options I listed should force the phone to recognize the mic input.

​

I am still waiting on mine in the mail to test it out, but I would guess the TRS converter method will produce higher quality audio since it wouldn't be running through a $7 sound card.

I have a USB audio device -- this one -- and would like to play audio from its microphone, live. I don't want to stream or record it. I just want to pass through the audio, live, from the mic to the speakers plugged into the headphone jack on the Pi.

I can't find anything online about how I would go about doing this, as everything is about streaming audio or recording it.

How would I do this?

Thanks!

Yea that is the thing people need to realize. The Siberia USB chip is only worth about $3. They charge >$25 for the standalone USB device, and you can get that level of quality anywhere. The CM108 chip is pretty much in every USB headset.

CM108 Datasheet for nerdlingers.

Generic USB Device using CM108

Siberia Version

Here is a really weird option, if you want to get it into your computer for recording, buy 2 usb soundcard things for like $10 each. They look like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0776QBWYB

Then plug each volca into the mic input.

On my mac I just create an audio group with both soundcard mics, so I get a 'stereo' input. Or you could record each track separate.

Hey folks,

I was looking to purchase an external USB sound card for my laptop so I can enjoy my FLAC audio on my laptop.

So far i'm between this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K1OOGRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ&psc=1

and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JUPY3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Can anyone vouch for these soundcards, or anything else? It will be very much appreciated!

Unfortunately, I think your options are pretty limited. Sound software sometimes allows a microphone port to be used as a headphone port, but my general understanding is that you can't run a microphone through a headphone port (at least, that's how it works on my computer).

Here's what you can try: plug your microphone jack into the headphone port. Your sound software might give you a popup asking what device you just plugged in. If "microphone" is on that list, you might be able to use your headphone port as a microphone port while running the headphone jack through a USB adapter like this one. If that doesn't work, I think your only option is a USB headset.

Edit: Pah! Silly me. I just found this thing. It does involve spending more money, but not very much! Note, however, that's it's not compatible with all types of microphone jacks. There's a guide on the product page.

Two great dac/amps:

The uDac by NuForce for $130
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323796239&sr=8-1

And for an extremely tight budget, The HiFiMan HM101
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066AHES4/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

Onboard soundcards are awful for mics. Static noise, buzzing, low volume... Those cheapo USB soundcards you can get off Amazon for $7 or less are already significantly better. Get one and only use it for the mic I'd say.

edit: for example according to this video, this USB sound card completely gets rid of the static noise of a mod mic versus the onboard sound. And it's about 5 bucks.

Hope that helps.

1

2

3

I found these three would they be any good?

Yeah, I have this adapter, it works for my mic but I don't have any game audio.

I'm hoping to build a half decent PC in the not-too-distant future, but not sure because shit's expensive yo.

I've read that people are using a number of cheap devices...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003QADH9C/

http://www.amazon.com/External-Bus-powered-Interface-Compatible-Operating/dp/B0069L9PZA/ref=pd_cp_pc_2

This headset has a built-in USB sound card that supposedly works well:

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/webcam-communications/internet-headsets-phones/gaming-headset-g330

Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Micro supposedly installs without a hitch.

Just the USB device:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058P0I2C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1HMDNSGQTWMFECGSY1MP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

But you may want to stick to the verified devices:

http://elinux.org/RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Sound_Cards

that should work too. I bought this one and it worked perfect ... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K601VUW

Could you give me a good example of one of those adapters? Looking on Amazon, I found stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Splitter-Adapter-Headphone-AU-2X35/dp/B015OCQJ7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485546261&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=USB+3.5mm+adapter&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE but it says it doesn't need drivers -- will that fix my issue?

I had the same problem when i got mine.I solved it by buying a little USB dongle with a headphone jack on it.I got the KEKU Virtual 7.1-Channel USB Sound Card Adapter, which has one for headphone, one for mic, and one for combo. There are many other choices. And the NUC has a bazillion USB ports which is just one of many things that make it a great computer.

I have a Gen 1 Astro A50 headset that will only put out stereo sound(because my laptop does not have a sound card). Will something like this work and allow it to put out surround sound?

i bought this, you can go much higher spec, but it's fine for what i needed and i did a build with ALOT of usb ports. macs are fine with usb audio

The 3.5mm plugs on motherboard is broken. I'm using a USB 2.0 External Sound Card thingy, it was like 1 USD. does the quality of this affect the audio? Would the cheapest audio card be significantly better? What about a different USB audio card?

I have heard only good things about this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K601VUW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

That DAC has a dual purpose out, you can either connect an analog 3,5mm jack to it, or a mini toslink (which has identical physical dimensions but an optical end).

I had never heard of that DAC but it should be ok as it does have an headphone amp.

Some alternatives could be the evergreen Behringer:

http://www.amazon.de/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Interface-Soundkarte/dp/B000KW2YEI/

or this:

http://www.amazon.de/HifiMAN-tragbarer-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-Soundkarte-premium/dp/B0066AHES4/

or this if you prefer a volume pot:

http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10K-OLYMPUS-WANDLER-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

(all should ship to the NL)

no, its not the only thing.

pretty much anything except the $5.99 extra cheapy ones will do fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-SB1290/dp/B0044DEDC0/

https://www.amazon.com/ROCCAT-JUKE-Virtual-Soundcard-ROC-14-110/dp/B00UTMKCMK/

This one works me, even when connected to the front USB panel. Check out the link, if you have any questions or updates, please let us know.


https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CableCreation-External-Windows-Drivers/dp/B01H2XF8V8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cablecreation+usb+audio+adapter&qid=1563788295&s=gateway&sr=8-3

that is an analog mic with an ADC then the USB interface, essentially a sound card, it isn't just a wire adapter. sound inside the computer is digital, sound outside of the computer is analog, there must be some means to convert it from one to the other. For headphones I'd use a decent DAC and amp stage, something like this for portability, or this for stationary use or FiiO E07k for ultra portability

I had a similar problem with my 8 year old Sony HTIB (DAV-C770, I believe). The HTIB has 1 SPIDF input, in addition to its component and composite inputs. I bought a cheap usb soundcard from SIIG that had SPIDF output. I ran the HDMI to my TV and the SPIDF to the HTIB and it works perfectly.

Sure.

USB Audio Adapter, CableCreation External Sound Adapter with 3.5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H2XF8V8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_PmCYCbMWPTBZA

Depends. If it converts it to analogue, basically being a tiny sound card, then yes. If it's just a passive adapter for phones that support analogue audio over USB then most likely no. I don't think many, if any, PCs do this.

Note: The following is just the top result on google so you know what to look for. I have no idea whether this is good, bad, cheap or expensive. Something like this should work no matter what. On PC that is.

Well, because the Realtek chips (mostly used) have built-in 3D Audio emulation in at least their drivers.
This cheap USB-Soundcard gives you only the plain Stereo, even if it mentions it can deliver 3D Audio.
Atmos Dolby is a proprietary function, which costs more to license than this little thing, no wonder that Atmos Dolby doesn't work properly.
I don't own a USB Soundcard, but I would give this a shot: https://www.amazon.com/ROCCAT-JUKE-Virtual-Soundcard-Headset/dp/B00UTMKCMK

>DAC

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0776QBWYB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1_1_1?smid=A21TE5CLHZDYA7&psc=1

​

Would this work ?

https://www.amazon.com/TeckNet-Aluminum-External-Adapter-Windows/dp/B014DNVUG2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ETWV1Z4NKQRGXTSYCFSV

Auswaur USB Type C External Stereo Sound Card Audio Adapter With 3.5mm Headphone Jack and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, PC, Laptops, Desktops and Mobile Phones (Type C-Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M57P8J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lbs1Ab7Z112MC

I have this one.

Buy a USB audio interface for around $9 and add a cheap microphone.

Or a $4 usb audio card.

http://amzn.com/B0044EOQO4

I ran into an issue on my old store-bought computer (10 years old at least) where the sound just refused to work. I ended up buying an external sound card that plugged into a USB port.

This will cost you under $2 and you have other options as well.

I was using this for a while with my old laptop. I use [this]9http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3NHZ36WKJNZP8&coliid=I2ULLJB7WUOYK3) to hook my laptop to the system in my garage.

not sure if either will work for your purposes.

You could try a USB audio splitter. I have no idea if it'd work though cause I've never tried it.

You're going to need a mixer with loopback. Though, if you don't mind the OK sound quality I have one of these and it has this function.

http://i.imgur.com/DWBuu4d.png

That's the headphone/speaker output settings, you can turn on the microphone so it outputs into the headphones with no delay and change the volume. Was nice when I had it.

I've found that android's support for DACs is weird. I bought this to try and upgrade my Behringer UCA220. Unfortunately, the inputs and all of the options besides the volume knob didn't work, so typically you can assume that the DAC will produce sound, but beyond that is a shit toss. I use the inputs for issuing voice commands because once you connect a USB DAC, the microphone on your device will stop working.

I'm assuming you've already purchased Timur's Kernel and are subscribed to his subreddit, so here's a trick I posted to help with grounding/charge issues.