Reddit mentions: The best faucet flanges

Ok, so first thing you need to do is fix the flange. You need to buy a closet flange floor support kit. It is two metal plates that will help steady the flange. If the flange isn't supported and you put the toilet down if might not even be smashing the wax down enough or you might cause a problem in the piping.

If the flange is a compression style make sure it is level to the floor as best as you can. Then secure the floor flange support kit down. After you do that do a dry fit of the toilet with shims to level it out. Take a pencil and mark where the shims and toilet should be. Then put the jumbo wax on the flange and then set the toilet. The horns work well but you need to see how the sit in your flange. If the flange is too shallow and not sloped on the edges the horn can press up and cause issues. You don't need it, but they do help if you have a toilet that has a flange over the pipe.

Here is a link to what the support kit looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-490-11322-Closet-Support/dp/B000K13TL6

Thanks for the follow up, I'm most likely going to pull it out and just replace that last section.

I hadn't bought anything yet, I was basically looking to find a flange that might fit. I think one of the clamp on cast iron flanges might work but after pricing out a full replacement again (with PVC not ABS this time) the price difference isn't really worth the time I'm putting into trying to get around the replacement.

What I was looking at though were the PVC push in designs, had the ID fit. Or this style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001REGQXI

But I have help coming to help pull out that heavy cast iron tomorrow to get started on this. Also planning on starting drywall this week as well if time allows, can't wait to at least have walls back up

Fair enough. Is a flange like this not good enough? I've heard great things about this flange and figured that'd work well until we redo the bathroom.

I think I'll probably keep the pipe and do everything else about like you said. Also, would using plywood on top to bring the flange flush to the tile work or should it be mortar?

Not sure if this will help your situation or not, but a few weeks ago I pulled a toilet out and the flange was super rusted but glued into the drain pipe so I didn't want to start messing with it. I saw this ( https://www.amazon.com/10672X-HydroSeat-Durable-Toilet-Flange/dp/B00KBBAN5K/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=toilet+flange+repair&qid=1566179731&s=gateway&sr=8-9 ) at home depot and gave it a shot and so far it's been working really well - basically takes the old flange out of the equation and can make it easier for non-plumbers to make a repair.

Use a push-tite closet flange. (make sure it's a 3" one)

1. Yes pour concrete on top, but get concrete that sticks to concrete. Sometimes new and old stuff doesn't bond.
   
   
2. Don't know why not, but double check. I don't want to lead you in the wrong direction.
   
   
3. I've used both without any problems. I wouldn't sweat using either one.
   
   Pro-tip- Pour the cement and install the flange right away while it's wet. You can just stick in the bolts and let the concrete dry around them for a great holding seal and you save time later by not needing to use a hammer drill to drill for the bolts later on.

Thanks for pointing me in this direction! Does something like this work the same as a fix-a-flange but just cover the entire flange?

Do I need to worry about the extra flange height with this approach? Or does the wax take care of that. Thanks!

you can buy flange repair rings, half and full circle. they work just great just make sure you don't actually have a crack lower down. all it'll do is go on over that one and screw down. Save you from having to break that thing out and the possibility of causing more issues.

They sell them at home depot/lowes or any plumbing supply warehouse, the half rings look similar to this

these are old leaded flanges, my experience with cast iron and leaded flanges is rather limited due to my age and region. but the best way would be to replace the lead with newer cast iron if that's possible, or buy new flange plates that bolt to the existing floor.
this is a cast iron toilet flange that are much newer and the standard for cast iron applications :http://amzn.com/B001REGQXI
and this is more of a temporary flange you can use to repair what you have that will bolt to the floor: http://amzn.com/B000FHBGEC

This person seems right. It looks like a sewer clean out. Is the other cleanout on the opposite wall (outside) or opposite wall (across the room)?

Six inch drain cover.

If it was my house I would carefully roto hammer around the pipe to make enough clearance to put on a no-caulk closet flange. They go on over the pipe and then tighten up to create a solid mechanical seal.

I prefer my flanges to be flush with top of tile

For a 4" pipe
https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-C40420-4-Inch-2-Inch-Closet/dp/B0062X761A

For a 3" pipe
https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-Corp-No-Caulk-Closet/dp/B009YA024G

Make sure the carbon filter has a flange.


It looks like this

 

Otherwise, you might need a connector (Ducts have a male/female)
See this as an example

 

I bet it's the flange though

I just looked, the bolts go under the subfloor, and it's pretty tight.
https://i.imgur.com/ls9tjvy.jpg
It's even tighter on the other side, unfortunately. Should I consider one of the flanges that you can put on top of the current flange, like this? Or wouldn't that solve my issue? Looks as if I could shave off the current bolts and then put that on top.

If the recessed part is stripped, I'd try an extractor, there are several kinds, however if it's corroded as well as stripped, you may never get it out. In that case, just drill it out, and get a new faucet flange.

I've never seen a slide over flange in that style, I see things like this.

Is the hole full of hard water deposits, and that's what's preventing you from extracting the screw? If so, maybe you could dissolve it out with a lime removal product.

I have been searching for standing height tables for a long time. Anything "ergo" costs a crapload more than it should. Tables themselves, being simply a flat surface with some legs, are highly overpriced as well.

Here is an idea for some easy table legs:

First you buy four of these. They are plumbing fittings and can be had at home depot. Get the black ones and they wont even look like plumbing once they are under the table.

They are made to fit 3in black PVC. You can get that at home depot too and they will usually cut it for you.

Then get some nice 3in endcaps for your PVC. It should all be in the same area in home depot.

The flanges are made to be attached the opposite of what we are trying to do so the countersinks for the holes are on the wrong side. Don't let that bother you its going to be under the table anyway.

When I used these I ended up bolting one end of the table to the wall so you may need to brace the legs a bit with something.

Now to make them adjustable:

Hmm... If you could find some smaller pvc or other cylindrical material that fits in the larger 3in pvc, then you could drill holes through both of them at set lengths and use pegs to adjust. You would have to be very precise or your table would wobble but it should work.

Perhaps not an ideal fix, but a much cheaper solution would be a “flange extender”.

Lowes carries a flange with a rubber donut that slides into the cast iron pipe and expands similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8M9ZBP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07H8M9ZBP&pd_rd_w=2YpIE&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=lNJnH&pf_rd_r=KJWAYVFCZH9T3RBN9XV5&pd_rd_r=ac305afa-5f85-11e9-a6d1-89beb44619b8 I used one several years ago. Works well.

use something like this set it up to 12" RI. https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-C54402-3-Inch-Plastic-Knockout/dp/B0062X7ATS/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X639YKH6V7BJXWMBCHKY

I recommend the Oatey Set-Rite

Look for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43538-Flange-Replacement-4-Inch/dp/B001D9QN8A/

I have fixed this exact problem with this

SIOUX CHIEF MFG PBS44AZ 4" Push-Tite Cist Flange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FYOA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.DR9Bb77537ZR



I got mine from Home Depot, it pushes into the waste pipe over top of the flange that’s already there then you screw it to the floor (you could probably use construction adhesive to glue yours if you can’t screw into concrete). Very easy and you can caulk around the toilet to his the small gap since it sits up a little night now.

Everybody says the flanges are expensive, but it 's possible to find them cheaper: 5 pack of 1/2 inch for $9

http://www.amazon.com/Mueller-521-603BG-Black-Floor-Flange/dp/B002PEV4VS/

Alrighty then. I'll get this enclosure with this rail and these cable lock nuts.

I've been selling a lot of these since I brought them in.

https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-PSF-100-Toilet-Repair-Spanner/dp/B000BQWKGU/184-6530071-2025546?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0


and use a thicker wax seal to make up the 1/4"

I would buy something similar to this to place under the clamp. They make some with a small hinge style or you could cut one side to “wrap” around piston.

http://www.amazon.com/Set-Rite-Toilet-Flange-Extender-Kit/dp/B0025VS1US/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1415849009&sr=8-14&keywords=toilet+flange

This also works to repair broken flanges.

There are flange extension kits for just this kind of a problem:

https://www.amazon.com/Toilet-Extension-corrects-elevations-ranging/dp/B0025VS1US

Just a new seal may work in this case:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEXT-by-Danco-Perfect-Seal-Toilet-Wax-Ring-10718X/204817386