Reddit mentions: The best firearm collecting books

It's a collection of anecdotes from an arms developer. More than anything it gives an overview as to the mentality and function of American arms development, acquisition, and industry during the cold war.

It's a fairly thin book and in some ways it feels both a bit too dry, and a bit to light on information.
The author is happy to throw a big list of numbers in your face, but at the same time he omits big chunks of the story most readers would likely find interesting.

I don't think it's a bad book, I enjoyed it. But you should know what kind of a book it is before you buy it. I get a feeling that a lot of buyers had an inaccurate understanding of what kind of a book they were purchasing and ended up disappointed.

Edit: One book I can however thoroughly recommend if you haven't read it is this. It's a great book full of knowledge that anyone interested in firearms (particularly military firearms) will find of great interest. I think the copyright on this book has long since expired so you can find free ebook versions of it online.

When you are going into printed literature, it is best to go for a specialized subject.

There are a lot of books that want to cover everything, but most of them are pretty bad.

One cover-everything book that I do like is How Weapons Work. But that it mostly because I grew up with this book, and it's probably part of what sparked my interest in firearms. Reading it now, it does cover most things, but it barely scratches the surface of each subject.

You need to know what you want to learn from the book.

If you want books for gun identification you have stuff like The Illustrated Encyclopedia Of XXXXX. These books are great as reference to a particular firearm, but doesn't offer much in terms of data or technical details.

If want to get more specific in a specific brand of firearm you have books like Mauser. Military Rifles of the World. Once you get into books about specific firearms the quality increases. You'll rarely go wrong with a book about a very specific subject.

ForgottenWeapons (which in itself is an extremely good reference for old and unusual stuff) has some book reviews every now and then.

If you want to get technical AGI has some nice video armorer's courses. I only have a couple of them, but I'm impressed with what I've seen.

Due to time and location, attending Appleseed is not possible as much as I'd to like to go. So I figured I'd try to find the next best thing and that's when I found the book “Gun Digest: Shooters Guide to Rifle Marksmanship”. From what I read this book covers just about everything at Appleseed and more. When reading the book I even found lots of mentions of Appleseed and the writer mentions how he's involved in the program. This book covers shooting with iron sights, positional shooting, sling supported shooting, etc. I spent a few months reading and practicing what was in the book and I was amazed at the progress I made. The book is a relatively easy read and packed with tons of pictures.

https://www.amazon.com/Digest-Shooters-Guide-Rifle-Marksmanship-ebook/dp/B00CA9DKCO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498609539&sr=8-2&keywords=Gun+digest+marksmanship

So today I decided to try out the Appleseed AQT test. I found a digital download of the 11x17 document and made a few prints and set it up at 25 yards. It turned out to be a lot more fun than expected. I planned on only doing one run but ended up doing three. Having a timer really adds a new level to shooting especially on the rapid fire courses. On the first run I pulled out a 222. The next I had a 243 and the last a 226. My best moment was the clean sweep on the final stage you see in the image.

The rifle I'm using is a Ruger 10/22 Altamont Classic V fitted with tech sights, USGI sling, and a Volquartssen target hammer. The 20” barrel provides for a really nice sight radius. I was using CCI Standard Velocity. I was shooting from a MidwayUSA shooting mat. Tip: Wear a long sleeve shirt and jeans! It helps with the sling on the arm and the jeans help when your elbows from slipping when shooting sitting.

No, it's not official. No, I didn't get a patch. But I learned a lot. This shows you if you aren't able to make it to an Appleseed it doesn't mean you can't still learn. I would suggest go to an Appleseed first but this is another option. Just because you can't go doesn't mean you have to give up.

My next challenge is to try this but with my Marlin 25mn, a beautiful bolt gun chambered in 22WMR but not nearly as accurate as my 10/22.

There are just too many individual variant Mausers to cover on a Reddit reply. Being the premier bolt action of the day, it's something like the C&R version of the AR platform. They were made in every shape, size, and caliber.

The short answer is that what most people think of Mausers can be described as the earlier M1893-style small rings and the later M1898-style large rings. (This is a radical over simplification and will turn the stomachs on most big milsurp collectors around here.)

Small Rings are good for slightly lower powered cartridges. They are generally lighter and more sleek looking. Most are stocked in straight wrists. They are also cock on close.

Large Rings are extremely rugged and can take very heavy ammo. They are slightly bulkier and usually look far less graceful. They cock on open. (There is an Intermediate Ring and a "What is with the Turks?" Ring, but they generally fall in the properties of the Large Ring category)


I recommend two books to get you started:

Mauser Military Rifles of the World. You can actually regularly find this at your local Barnes and Noble. This is the most complete Mauser book. It's like a shopping list.

Bolt Action Military Rifles of the World. This is an excellent beginning point for milsurps and the authors were very careful with their facts. Least number of ambiguous 'mistakes' of any collected book I've seen. It also has a two page layout on the evolution of the Mauser design that I find VERY helpful.

Welcome!

Impulses can be a good thing, and a tool to learn. But controlling some of them, as I look at my bulging, overfilled, safes, can get away from me!😅

But I don’t judge. We don’t get to choose who or what we love.

There is a wealth of information out there. I just got four new revolver oriented books this week, and YouTube has a lot of vidyas out there as well from a plethora of different peoples on the subject of revolvers. Some are BS, but some have some good info.

Four books I got in this week and the S&W Bible, if your interested. I kinda get into the history and whatnot of revolvers, 1911’s and older battle rifles. Truth be told, I nerd out on a few things, but this is the only one I have time to mention now. 😅

The Secrets of Double Action Shooting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/098883684X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jQvZDbM33Y3FV

No Second Place Winner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0936279095/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FRvZDbJF4049T

Protect Yourself With Your Snubnose Revolver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1520384130/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bSvZDbVACJRDB

Sixguns by Keith: The Standard Reference Work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1626546061/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FSvZDb282B7KB

Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440245630/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pUvZDbMBEFA6A

Gotta go, late for work. Again....

I've been looking for an exploded drawing or something similar, but if you really need help try and find this book. The JC Higgins Model 103.16 was a Marlin Model 80 branded with the Sears name. You might have better luck checking forums than I did, but if you don't, then look for that book. I found my copy at Barnes and Noble's for under $20. Best of luck to you.

EDIT: Beat to the punch by six minutes.

Manufactured in 1943, it's an 1898 derivative of some sort?

My dad's got a Mauser 1893 (manufactured in 1896, with the Spanish coat of arms) that got bubba'd, though not nearly as bad as yours. Replaced the original stock outright (a rather nice one, but not the original), replaced the sights, cut down the barrel, and turned down the bolt. I've thought about converting it to a proper carbine (some of the modification done by bubba were done at the factory for the carbines), as well as rechambering to something less expensive to shoot (7x57mm is at least $0.80/round, and not easy to find). If you go this way, there's a book on Mauser military rifles (fairly certain this is it, I got it from the public library). In your case, since the receiver has already been drilled, you might consider finding a stock and scope, and turning it into a sniper lookalike; if you can't use the existing holes, the scope will at least help to hide them. You might also try your hand at making a stock yourself, if you have any interest in woodworking; either a nice sporterized one, or a replica of the original.

Get a new wife... I kid I kid.

Get the Blue Book of Gun Values.

I'd keep (in no particular order)

• Winchester Model 94, if it is a pre-1964; pre-64 guns can be very valuable!
  
• Winchester Model 61
  
• Springfield Krag
  
• Mauser Model 98
  
• Marlin West Point
  
• M-1 Carbine Military
  
• Colt 38 Official Police
  
• Colt 38 Police Positive Special
  
• S&W Model 102 Military Police
  
• Strum & Ruger LR Auto Pistol
  
  Definitely get the blue book, before you even consider selling them. Convince your wife to take a firearms safety course and basic shooting course with you. Then get a gun safe and keep them at home; don't have someone install the safe. Be sure your home owner's insurance will cover what you've got, most home owners insurance only covers $500 worth of guns, jewelry and other things.
  
  The stuff which you're not "allowed" to keep, you can sell on GunBroker.

I was recently given a copy of Ed McGivern's Fast and Fancy Revolver shooting ($2.51 kindle edition). It's a really good read but the tips on how to have your wife hold various targets so you can shoot it out of her hand is just awesome. Safety first! You wouldn't want to shoot your her fingers off when practicing your upside-down-two-revolver technique. In all seriousness he thoroughly documents a lot of his shooting of different guns and ammo and his trick shooting is unbelievable.

• Primitive Technology on YouTube
  
  
• The book by primitive tech
  
  
• The recent AMA by the primitive tech guy
  
  
• Townsends A channel dedicated to exploring the 18th Century lifestyle.
  
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfIqCzQJXvYj9ssCoHq327g how to make everything channel on YouTube that shows how with fairly minimal knowledge and practice you can make functional (although inefficient) tools and items
  
  
• The Society for Creative Anachronism Researching and re-creating the arts and skills of pre-17th-century Europe, non-LARP medieval reenactors that take it quite serious.
  
  
• /r/bushcrafting
  
  
• /r/PrimitiveTechnology/
  
  
• /r/Homesteading/
  
  
• /r/Leathercraft/
  
  
• /r/Fishing/
  
  
• /r/Hunting/
  
  
• /r/Trappit/
  
  
• /r/HomemadeTools/
  
  
• /r/soapmaking/
  
  
• /r/weaving/
  
  
• /r/knitting/
  
  
• /r/candlemaking/
  
  
• Book Country Wisdom & Know-How: Everything You Need to Know to Live Off the Land
  
  
• Book Restoration Agriculture
  
  
• Book Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture, 2nd Edition Paperback
  
  
• Book The Encyclopedia of Country Living, 40th Anniversary Edition: The Original Manual for Living off the Land & Doing It Yourself Paperback – October 30, 2012
  
  
  
• Book Five Acres and Independence: A Practical Guide to the Selection and Management of the Small Farm Paperback
  
  
• Book Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
  
  
• Book Bushcraft 101: A Field Guide to the Art of Wilderness Survival
  
  
• Book The Trapper's Bible: The Most Complete Guide on Trapping and Hunting Tips Ever
  
  
• Book The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Volume 1 ALL of the volumes in this series are great and for that matter all of his books are.

I'd be curious to see if there are more markings elsewhere or on any of the components? Are the rest of the parts matched to the gun? Removing the buttplate may show some more makers marks underneath.

It was either produced by Terni from 1941 until 1943 or by Armaguerra Cremona from 1942 until 1945-ish.

I'm inclined to say it's made by Armaguerra Cremona as the Terni rifles were typically very well marked. Also the marking looks similar to what they would have used, but the picture isn't very clear.

If you want a very informative book that is still in print, The Model 1891 Carcano Rifle by Giovanni Chegia & Alberto Simonelli is fantastic and only 40 dollars. Lots of detailed color photos and great information.

Well, since you're starting out, you'll want some sort of general reference catalog. Something like Blue Book of gun values (get the physical copy, not the online one) or this should help you get started.

What kind of guns did you want to start out with? There's a LOT of topics and subtopics, it would help me help you if I knew at the very least where you planned to start with your collection.

From elsewhere on the intewebs:

>the Crown over "D" is an inspectors mark. The Choke 18.4 is the indication of a choke and the bore diameter of 18.4 mm (0.724" or a tight 12 gauge, not uncommon in European guns. "PV" stamped under the rampant Belgian Lion would indicate a Nitro Proof.

>In spite of the markings to the contrary and the apparent Nitro Proof, Damascus Steel barrels are not considered safe with modern ammunition by most knowledgeable shotgun experts.

>The wood appears to be walnut finished with a reddish hue, but seeing more of the stock could change that opinion.

>You have a finely appointed shotgun, obviously by a talented maker.

>My Best Guess is that in a well attended auction of high grade double guns, your specimen would probably command a bid in the range of $1000 to possibly $2000.

But I'm guessing you're friend is aware of that, not sure he passed it along.

This book appears to have some information on these Belgian side by sides with Damascus steel, but I doubt you would find anything about value.

Here is a list of all the proof marks. This gun in question has 'The Perron' mark among others. Here is a decent collection of more marks, including maker marks.

I could fine two (1 & 2) Belgian Damascus side by sides for sale, but they bear little resemblance to your firearm.

---

Can you get some better photos of all the proof marks? I feel we can find the maker if we get clear photos.

---

Edit: Also, you're a twat for not making a self post.

If you want to know more about gun slinging and revolver shooting, check out this book: https://www.amazon.com/McGiverns-Book-Fancy-Revolver-Shooting/dp/160239086X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483076483&sr=8-1&keywords=fast+and+fancy+revolver+shooting

It was written by one of the best revolver shooters of all time. He lived a little later than the "wild west" but not by much. The best revolver shooter of our time is Jerry Miculek, who currently holds several world records for speed and accuracy with a revolver, and he credits that book with getting him started down that path.

> Which Mauser is best?

Long Mauser is best Mauser.

There's such a huge variety of Mauser models and calibers that you might want to buy one or two books on the subject.

Really though, if you want a Kar.98k that's what you should get; you won't really be happy otherwise. If you want a rifle that's visually identical to the Kar.98k without the price tag you might look at the Israeli-contract FN M1950 (many of which were converted to 7.62NATO), a Czech CZ-Brno Vz.98(N) (post-WW2 Czech copy of the 98k) or a Yugoslavian Mod.98/48 (German Kar.98k that were re-built and re-marked by Yugoslavia in the 1950s).

It also depends on what you expect the projectile to do. What is your intended target? Paper? Prairie dogs? Deer? Bear? Elephants? Each one has different requirements such as energy and velocity at the useful range desired. Flat shooter or heavy hitter? A classic reference and a good read is: Hatchers Notebook

This book is an excellent resource if you are going down that road. There are over 50 countries listed in the TOC, god knows how many variants within that... Great book, can't recommend enough for Mauser reference.

Story:

So I finally went to the range after damn near two months, and one of the guns I brought with me was my Smith & Wesson 4505 - one of only 1200 made. I put 70 round of factory ammo through it, without any sort of malfunction or hiccup - the reliability to be expected of 3rd Gen Smith's.

I am open to any sort of critiques y'all can come up with. I do apologize in advance for the atrocious sound quality - certainly there are better filming locations than on a popular, public shooting range on a rainy day in Washington.

___

Would you like to know more?

• Wikipedia Article, Smith & Wesson 4506
  
  
• "Field Strip: Smith & Wesson 4505" [3:08]
  
  
• According to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson:
  
  > Caliber: .45 ACP, blued finish, full size traditional double-action, 5" barrel, 8-shot magazine, ambidextrous safety, Novak Lo-Mount fixed sights with limited production of adjustable sights, 3rd trigger guard. Approximately 1200 were manufactured with serial prefixes of "TFSxxxx": and "THCxxxx." Weight is 41 oz. Produced 1991.

Both eyes.

My uncle was a firearms instructor and shot competitively. He taught me how to shoot after my father passed away. One day he noticed me squinting my left eye and said my father would have slapped me on the back of the head if he saw me doing that.

Shooting with one eye closed causes fatigue if you do it for very long. It will also cause you to lose visual acuity after a few seconds vs shooting with both eyes open. A.A. Yur'yev wrote a really good book with all sorts of awesome information like this in it. I like to reread it every few years or so as it seems I always pick up something new.

Here's a link if you're interested: http://www.amazon.com/Competitive-Shooting-Techniques-Training-Running/dp/0935998535

I know you're more inclined toward handguns and rifles, but give this book on shotguns a try. Chuck Hawks, the reputable writer of all things guns, highly recommends Shotgunning: The Art and the Science for being one of the first books to approach shotguns in a fascinating and scientific manner.

Not sure why the downvotes for some very valid information. Classes rank number 1. Youtube is an excellent resource as well. There are plenty of channels that eliminate the signal to noise ratio. Reading books has never done anything for me personally on firearm instructions. Nothing beats hands-on.

One quick search yielded this for informative books.
https://www.amazon.com/Gun-Digest-2017-Jerry-Lee/dp/1440246580

Gun Digest Shooter's Guide to Rifle Marksmanship.

I've also heard good things about Jeff Cooper's Art of the Rifle.

For assessing your progress, check out the NRA marksmanship qualification program. I'm currently working through the 4 position rifle sequence.

The go to is Shotgunning: The art and Science. If he has been shooting for a while he probably has read it, but if he doesn't have a copy it is always fun to go back to.

http://www.amazon.com/Shotgunning-The-Science-Bob-Brister/dp/1602393273

When I started collecting guns in 2006, I bought a S&W Model 617-6. Not knowing anything about S&Ws, I assumed the "-6" was for the six-inch barrel on the gun. It was something of a revelation when I saw a -5 (which was then still a regular production gun with S&W) with a 6" barrel. So I researched the 617 and was able to piece together some of the history of this model, including the major engineering changes (changed rear sight/drilled & tapped frame, MIM parts, 10-shot vs. 6-shot) and learned that different engineering changes were manufactured concurrently (-5 and -6, -3 and -4, etc.).

I bought another S&W revolver (S&W 17-8), and another (686-1), and another (10-6), and another (19-3). Each time, I researched the model on the Internet, its history, engineering changes, and variations, and started to note a pattern: while dash-numbers weren't always the same, their engineering changes did seem to mirror one another sometimes. For instance, the engineering change for the S&W Model 10-5/10-6 to S&W Model 10-7/10-8 was the same for the S&W Model 19-3 to S&W Model 19-4 (gas ring moved to the cylinder). Moreover, I noted they happened in the same year (1977). Dash-numbers not being the same was because the models weren't all introduced at the same time, nor did changes to one model necessarily mean changes to another model - the Model 10, for instance, was on the -5 and -6 engineering change (produced concurrently) while the Model 19 was on the -3. So while the models were fairly independent, there were some key changes that helped me get a sense of what was happening.

http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp - this webpage was pretty instrumental to getting a partial picture of earlier S&W models, and helped assign dates to engineering changes.

What really helped my research along was the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson. With this book, I was able to both confirm everything I had learned up to this point with the numerous S&W revolvers I had purchased and researched (including opening them up and looking at the guts, and touching and feeling the parts that had been changed), and also look up information on other models - ones I'd probably never get to purchase myself.

The Book isn't definitive, however - there are several S&W revolvers that have been produced after the 3rd Edition was published that aren't listed in the book, and there are even subtle variations on the guns that are listed in the book. For instance: my 10-6 is supposed to have the gas ring on the yoke, per the book, but it has the gas ring on the cylinder like a 10-8 (though it is marked 10-6, and its serial number puts its date of manufacture - 1974 - in the 10-6 range - 1962-1977). It's possible that the yoke and cylinder assembly were retrofitted (I believe my Model 10 was a trade-in of some sort, possibly police, but more likely some security company), though the bluing and wear of the cylinder matches that of the frame and barrel, or The Book isn't the be-all, end-all of S&W history.

The one adage I've seen over and over on the various gun forums is: "Never say 'never' with S&W" - there are always exceptions to the rule.

The book goes over all kinds of different rifling types, it was almost like every English gunmaker had their own. Rigby rifling was like Metford but with semi-round lands, Holland and Holland semi-smooth bore had a ton of very shallow round lands and Alexander Henry rifling was like polygonal with extra triangular lands in the corners of the hex. Pretty crazy stuff.

I imagine rifling a muzzleloading cannon would be a chore. Its not like you can push a broach through so it must have been done with a single point cutter.

Edit: Heres the book. It normally retails for $100 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0811704424/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

Hatcher's Notebook is fantastic.

The gun digest annuals have articles , a pretty extensive pricing guide with some historic info on each firearm, all kinds of ballistics information and various gun info. I wouldn't say you need every year but having a new volume of it every 5 or so years can get you new info. Also the articles are well written. Lot's of other books by gun digest on their webstore as well.

If you want a more complete reference pick up a Standard Catalog. Bit more pricey but it's a giant book and maybe a bit more in line with what you are looking for.

I am an English shotgun-aboo

I Started here

https://www.amazon.com/British-Sporting-Gun-Rifle-Perfection/dp/0811704424

Michael McIntosh “Best Gun’s” will be more of a generic overview of fancy Pants gunmaking and give good primers for different gunmakers and regions

Get this book on Kindle: http://www.amazon.com/Shotgunning-Science-Second-Bob-Brister/dp/1602393273 However if you don't decide to read it I'll lay out some stuff for you.

First things first: make sure your gun fits you. The gun should shoot where you look when you mount it*. Shotgun fit is a very nuanced concept so you might look into having a shooting instructor help you out getting your gun to fit. If your gun doesn't fit there's no point in going any further.

Shoot with both eyes open. Depth perception is important, and losing half of your FOV when you close your eyes is suboptimal. If you're cross-dominant Google ways to fix it.

Make sure your stance is good. Some people stand more erect, some hunch over more. Experiment. The goal is to lean into the gun enough that you can control the recoil effectively but maintain enough upper-body mobility to swing the gun. I stand like I'm shooting a 4-bore elephant gun because I started shooting skeet when I was 8 or so and I had to lean into the gun to keep my tiny self from getting knocked over. It's suboptimal but I shoot OK.

Make sure the butt of the gun is in your shoulder's "pocket." Chicken-wing your arm and hold it out at 90 degrees. You should feel a pocket open up in the general vicinity of your shoulder joint. You'll know it when you feel it. Put the gun there; having it on your pectoral or deltoid muscles will give you a horrible bruise. YES you will be chicken-winging your arm. This is how you shoot a shotgun.

Next, leading the target is important. There are 4 main methods for determining lead:

1. Instinctive. Do what you feel. I kinda shoot this way but I wouldn't rely on it; you need a lot of shells down range before your instincts work.
   
2. Spot shooting. Holding the gun in one place and shooting when the bird reaches the right spot. I know a very good (won the Grand from 27 yards) trapshooter who shoots this way but it doesn't work well outside of trap or skeet where you know more or less exactly what the target will do.
   
3. Sustained lead. Hold the gun in front of the bird the designated amount and stay in front of it, pulling the trigger when the time is right.
   
4. Swing-through. Swing through the bird along its trajectory then slap the trigger. This one is my favorite.
   
   Common mistakes include:
   
   
5. Lifting your head.
   
6. Stopping your swing. I like to put my weak hand farther forward on the forearm to smooth my swing out a little.
   
7. Flinching.
   
   Don't do those things.
   
   That should get you started.
   
   *Note that this isn't the case with dedicated skeet or trap guns, but for general-purpose guns it's best if it shoots flat.

You could try these guys some of whom own the 'Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson" and are willing to look up your provided serial number. Or you could purchase the book/ ebook from Amazon.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/222977-new-members-looking-date-manufacture-info-how-find-your-serial-number.html

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Catalog-Smith-Wesson/dp/089689293X

Apparently that book is worth a fortune now ಠ_ಠ

Fjestad's Blue Book.

Keep in mind, these are national averages. The values are a bit higher than my local area but it can give you a ball park.

Info comes from the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson available in print and on kindle for free with prime lending.
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Catalog-Smith-Wesson-Supica/dp/089689293X

After they switched to the model number system in the late 50's they would add a - and a second number anytime they changed or updated a gun. According to the book the model 10-5 was only produced in 1962.

• 10-4 (1962): Trigger guard screw eliminated on tapered barrel frame
• 10-5 (1962): Sight width changed from 1/10" to 1/8" on tapered barrel models
• 10-6 (1962): Trigger guard screw eliminated on heavy barrel model.

I've got a model 10-6 you can see in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DZ9TzahRjA

If you poke around my other videos I've got a few more model 10 videos about DIY replacing the barrel and detail stripping.

Have you read [Hatcher's Notebook](http://www.Hatcher.com/'s Notebook: A Standard Reference Book for Shooters, Gunsmiths, Ballisticians, Historians, Hunters, and Collectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/1614272832/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LrRPAbMD41YRX)? Gen. Hatcher worked in the Ordnance Department of the U.S. Army and discusses the issues with these receivers in his book. One big issue I see with trying to reheat treat these receivers is the action shattering when trying to remove the barrel. Which for some, may be too much risk for a irreplaceable piece of someone's collection.

If you can post a picture of the serial number, I can give you an approximate date of manufacture and model (S&W reference book ftw!).

Competitive Shooting by A.A. Yur'yev covers this in detail, but I have no idea where to recommend the book for cheap.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mauser-Military-Rifles-World-Robert/dp/1440215448?sa-no-redirect=1

Buy a book before you buy the gun. https://www.amazon.com/Mauser-Military-Rifles-World-Robert/dp/1440215448

This book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1602393273/

Has the answers to all your questions and is the gold standard reference for that kind of information in shotgunning. Buy it, read it, and don't believe what anyone else tells you that might be contradictory.