Reddit mentions: The best forstner drill bits

Warm the surface up. I use a heat gun for a few seconds, but a hair dryer will work as well. It cracks because the plastic is brittle. Give it a little heat and it gets a little more pliable. Not too far or you create a whole different problem. There are also different drill bits you can use. I've had great luck with Forstner Bits
and an almost perfect record with Step Bits

As u/FungalScripture (great name BTW) says, go slow. Keep pressure on the tool very light, and some support on the back side of the plastic you're drilling through can help too. Best of luck.

I'm looking to get some forstner bits; I'm just a new hobby woodworker so they won't see excessive abuse. With that said I'm wondering if it is worth spending more for Fisch, Freud, or Lee Valley offerings or something like this Porter Cable set that gets really good reviews will be sufficient ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TSZEB4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 )?

Also, looking for some brad point bits as well. Any brand recommendations there? And is it worth getting a full set or will something like 1/8-1/2" in 1/16 increments be enough? I have a full set of non-brad point bits already.

Thanks!

The bit cost more than the wood, true. It was $30 USD on Amazon, but I had been considering batching a few of these out as gifts for others anyway, so worth it for a decent quality tool that I hope to use more. This is the one I got, so far very pleased with it. Seems to be staying pretty sharp even after cutting through basically two inches of solid cherry.

This isn't exactly mine, but I have one like this and I love it.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/CMT-537-550-31-Forstner-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000UWFFU8


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




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For OP: Always put a piece of sacrificial material against the exit side of wood if you want the hole clean. Otherwise it will blow out and make a mess. Don't use the clutch setting when you're drilling. Get a good grip on your drill and if it comes with a side handle you may need it. The only time I really feel the need to use that handle anymore is when I'm doing big holes in masonry.

Sharp tools will require less force. The right bit will also help. Take care to keep your drill straight and apply pressure, but not too much. It may be worth practicing in some scrap as well.

What brand are they? The easiest method I have found for hollow Ever-Readys is:

• Cut the hair with a razor knife as close as you can with a razor knife making sure to not hit the handle
  
• Get a set of paddle bits and start with the smallest one (I am sure a forstner bit would make this a lot easier)
  
• Drill through the knot into the hollow the handle trying to keep it as close to the center as possible
  
• Take the next size up and do the same until you have removed the knot and are left with this
  
• Clean it up using a Dremel with a sanding wheel.
  
  If you want to keep the knot, try the steam method.

Here is a shopping list for people who want to do this kind of modification. It is fairly cheap to do, to be honest. Aside from the sanwa buttons, all of this stuff you can get at a local home improvement store for next to nothing. I spent a grand total of 30 bucks on this project. I recommend it for anyone who already has a sanwa arcade stick. If you're starting with nothing, just buy it from hitboxarcade.com since it will be cheaper. They charge 160 for the final stick.

(required)

• Four new 30mm buttons (OBSF-30): http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-Pushbuttons_c_152.html
  
• Crimp Connectors: http://www.lizardlick.com/Crimp-Connectors_c_203.html
  
• Black wire (2 ft): http://www.lizardlick.com/LL-22-AWG-Stranded-Wire-Black_p_121.html
  
  (optional)
  
  
• Fat 40mm "jump" button (OBSF-40/40RG): http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/OBSF-40.htm
  
• Clear buttons (OBSF-30): http://www.arcadeshock.com/items/sanwa-parts~buttons-balltops-gates-/list0.htm
  
• Plexiglass: http://www.professionalplastics.com/cgi-bin/pp.pl?pgm=co_disp&func=displ&prrfnbr=100409
  
• Plexi cutter: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM2675756802P
  
• 30mm drill bit: http://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-300-31-30mm-Forstner-Bit/dp/B000P4LLFY
  
• 40mm Drill Bit: http://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-400-31-Forstner-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4NO0E
  
• New faceplate art PRINT: http://photo.walgreens.com/walgreens/photo-gifts/product=posters

Use a 2" forstner bit.

Clamp down the workpiece securely and put a sacrificial board underneath it so you don't screw up your work surface when you drill through the other side.

Mark the center point with something pointy. You could even drill a small pilot hole if you want--no bigger than the diameter of the spur on the end of the forstner bit at its widest point, though. Drop the spur into the mark.

At the beginning of the cut, the bit is going to want to go for a walk. I like to do quick, 1/2 second pulses when starting a bit like this until the hole is about 1-2mm deep. Once you're at that point, it will follow the walls.

Practice on scraps a few times until you're confident that you can get the hole started without having the bit jump out and walk around. This isn't a hard thing, but it sucks to mess up nice material because you didn't practice first.

Doing high-grade veneer work is not beginner stuff, but speakers are on the easier side. These are a few process shots from the last time I veneered speaker boxes, to give you an idea of one approach. I ended up finishing the speakers with a really dark toned shellac so the finished speakers look way less interesting than the process shots would imply...I just used that stuff because I had scrap veneer from doing these drawer fronts and the speakers were the right size.

it's actually the exact size used for HAPP or IL buttons, for sanwa its actually 1 3/16 inch, or this one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-300-31-30mm-Forstner-Bit/dp/B000P4LLFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1282035499&sr=8-1
I had hell trying to get it right for ages since I don't have access to metric hole saws, and, to be honest, a Forstner bit works better, slow and straight and steady works best, a paddle bit can sometimes rip the wood, the Forstner bit will not.

Best: Forstner Bit

Good: Hole Saw

Here's another option, although it won't be nearly as strong as screws, and your (mitered?) corners won't line up as perfectly. Use a forstner bit and drill holes about 1/8" deep on the face of the frame. Then, drill corresponding holes on the back side of the walnut boards. Use some epoxy and glue rare earth magnets into all the holes. Then, you could hang/remove your face boards at will.

I used a 40mm forstner bit in my drill press. I wouldn't fancy trying to do this with a handheld drill but maybe you could make a jig of sorts.

There seems to be slightly different sized tea lights - most fit like this in a 40mm hole (probably 38mm or so tealight) but some are a little looser so maybe they are 35mm or something.

[These are the bits I used](Hiveseen 5PCs Forstner Drill Bit Set, Metric Size 35/40/45/50/60mm, Carbide Steel Titanium Coated, Long Round Shank, Tipped Woodworking Boring Hole Saw Cutter for Wood Plastic Plywood https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074SXLKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ScqdBbFG9WS20). I've only used the 40mm one so far but it seemed to work well

> to that button? All the buttons I’ve found are too deep with 12v rated lights. Nice work! FYI If you unscrew the pcb yo

I use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Illuminated-Buttons-Raspberry/dp/B01N11BDX9/ref=pd_sim_194_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N11BDX9&pd_rd_r=dfe0416a-bb6f-11e8-a904-6bfe9a9fef2d&pd_rd_w=jmhh9&pd_rd_wg=Y5nPz&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=H31DW5P0R8HPQNJA5G36&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=H31DW5P0R8HPQNJA5G36

and use this drill bit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPBVIV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really appreciate you both taking the time to show me what you used, I had no clue where to start. I've had this bottle opener just sitting here for a month because I didn't think there was an economical way to start without buying a whole bunch of tools. I picked out this plaque to use for $6 and I found this bit on Amazon for $7 (Harbor Freight wants to charge me $7 for shipping alone). I'm just trying to figure out what to do about the magnets because though they're cheap on the site you listed they want $15 for shipping for $5 worth of magnets. One last question if you don't mind, is epoxy necessary to hold the magnets or would a hot glue gun work okay?

Edit: Woot I just found them on ebay for about $12.

No, absolutely not. From that angle, it looks like it has a Morse taper and CANNOT be held in a chuck. Morse tapers are used to connect bits (or the chuck itself) directly to the spindle.

However, can you take a different picture of the shank for confirmation? Even if it’s a straight shank, this should not be used in a handheld drill. There are probably 15 different ways to bore the hole you need using a handheld.

Also, that the people working at the hardware store did not know this is pathetic.

Edit: Pretty sure this is it:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Cutter-Tungsten-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B07DPRDGKS?th=1&psc=1

You want a 1 & 1/8" inch forstner bit. I have this one, works great:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RK4U/

Yep. You can buy a drill bit specifically designed to hollow out the section needed to fit the new hinge:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cutting-Diameter-Hinge-Boring-Drill/dp/B00553UNOU

The holes were made with forstner bits and a drill press. The corners were chamfered with a #4 1/2 smooth plane.

Forstner bits make flat bottom holes: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TSZEB4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1373367265&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX112_SY192

Hand plane used:
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=4_5

Drill a really small (1/8" or so) pilot hole for precision, then use a 24mm forsner bit. A spade bit (what's in the other video) could do it, but it's a little imprecise and not usually very sharp, so more risk of tearing or breaking rather than cutting, which would suck a bunch on the TE body. I think you'll find room to sink a 24mm button on there. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-240-31-Forstner-64-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4LLDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519990833&sr=8-1&keywords=24mm+forstner+bit

Narex Chisels

Porter Cable Forstner Bit Set

Eclipse Coping Saw

Countersink Wood Drill Bits

Narex Marking Knife

Bessey F-Clamps from Home Depot. 4 pack for like $20.

Bessey 3/4" pipe clamps from Home Depot. $12-ish. Black pipe is about $1 a foot.

Yup.

Porter Cable
Freud
CMT
Mibro

I own the Mibro set and have used a Freud set. They both worked well. The other two were just highly rated on Amazon so I stuck them in there for options. Read the reviews and decide what you want.

I've never had a situation where I've needed anything more specific than a 1/8" increment with a Forstner bit (or perhaps more accurately, I design my projects so that I don't need anything more specific than 1/8" increments) so I'm not sure how useful having tons of different sizes, such as with the PC pack, would be.

A hand held power drill with a bit like this. I don't know the exact measurement because my dad has a whole box of them and I just found one that was slightly larger than a Citadel paint pot.

I used a forstner bit for the bottom hole and a 1/4 drill bit for the intersecting hole. Then if you purchase this cable the metal sleeve unscrews and it slides easily but there is no wiggle room. The only thing I would do differently is counter sink the hole but it turned out nice enough.

Euro hinge,
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/MP-CS22-/110deg-European-Cabinet-Hinges
You will need a 35mm forstner drill bit for the cup side. The good news is they (hinges)are very adjustable after installation.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-350-31-Forstner-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4LLH2

Edit: here is a thread for installing them
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/installing-euro-hinges-26371/

55mm forsner bit
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-550-31-Forstner-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000UWFFU8

Bit extender
http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Forstner-Bit-Extension-10/dp/B0035Y45W2/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397300420&sr=1-7&keywords=forstner+bit+extension

For those who suggested forstner bits, do these for the bill? Freud FB-104 4 Bit 1/4- to 1-Inch Forstner Drill Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RK53/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jbTTub1YVC831. If so I'll overnight them.