Reddit mentions: The best garden netting products

That’s great!

I can answer your questions. For your first year you should aim for easy wins and success. Start with low goals and build steadily so you don’t get overwhelmed.

> Do I buy plants already growing from a nursery or do I buy seeds?

Start with buying “starts” (already established plants) from your nursery. Gardeners tend to aim for season-based harvesting: spring, summer, fall and winter harvest. Because winter is coming, you should probably pick up some brassicas (kale, cabbage, collard greens, mustard, ect). Ask around at your nursery for what they recommend, they’ll be experts about what grows in your area. Be sure to ask a few of the nurseries what the recommend, because one nursery might try to off-load the late season stuff and you’ll be disappointed with your harvest.

> fence mounted, thin gardens enough space for most of these kinds of plants or do they need more soil depth?

Generally, you can grow almost all plants in small pots, however the overall size of your plant will be limited, so your harvest will be much smaller. With this small of space (6” width, maybe 4-6” deep) you’ll be better off doing herbs. Mint, thyme, and many balms will do well in such a small space. If you really want to grow in such a tight space, you might consider something like a DIY Hydroponic setup, which can be constructed from PVC pipe pretty easily. Check out the info on /r/hydro. You actually don’t need to be too concerned about depth of roots, but there’s more time to learn that later. Generally, I would recommend something larger than this (see below).

> Am I too late in the year?

Nope! It’s never a bad time of year to start gardening, but you will need to grow and harvest plants in the right season. Unfortunately, you are too late for outdoor grown tomatoes, but there’s always next year! Most people are picking their ripe tomatoes right now, and they’re exclusively a summer-time plant. Surely someone local has produced a seasonal gardening calendar that explains what plants to seed/start/harvest in your area.

> Can I buy things like lettuce already germinated and ready to plant or do I need to work from the seeds up, and will this put me too late in the year?

As I said above, buy starts. Lettuce won’t grow too large in such a limited container, it will stay alive but it won’t grow too much. Don’t worry about growing from seeds, it’s not critical with any plant. Come spring time, try your hand at starting plants from seeds.

--------------

It sounds like you need a lot of general garden information. I would highly recommend you check out the “Square Foot Gardening” method and buy the book on Amazon. It covers absolutely every element you need to know about growing food in a garden, and is a high-yield, low cost solution.

Here’s some other thoughts for you: I wouldn’t recommend growing on the fence. Instead, depending upon your lightening conditions, I would recommend buying large pots and lining your fence wall. Some large 20-gallon (or larger) pots will allow for your roots to get in deeper, your soil to retain water better, and for more microbiology in your soil system (for example, beneficial worms can live in a large pot, but they won’t live in small pots). You’ll want to use your fence side for growing vertically. Pick up some nylon trellis and some EMT conduit to make a cheap trellis system; or just hang the trellis netting from the fence. Growing your plants vertically is a great way to get high yield. Keeping your plants in larger pots ensures they’ll grow larger.

Do you have space in a yard that gets adequate light? If so, definitely consider growing on the ground. Some 4’x4’ square foot gardens will get you much more yield that better aligns with what you’re looking for. In addition, it’s easier to install a hoop house to provide insulation and a longer growing season.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks everyone for the support, advice and comments! We didn't realize we'd get such a response so here are the promised additional info and pics!

Supplies (Total = $4153)

• Greenhouse Megastore (Total = $2345)
  
  • 8mm Triple Wall Polycarbonate panels ($120 crating charge)
    
    • 6’x8’ = $99 (per panel) x Qty 7 = $693
      
    • 6’x11’ = $136 (per panel) x Qty 5 = $680
      
  • 1 piece H profile 8mm
    
    • 8’ long = $15 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $78
      
    • 6’ long = $8 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $65
      
  • Anti-Dust bottom tape 1 roll = $30
    
  • Top sealing aluminum tape 1 roll = $17
    
  • 8/10mm “F” Gable end profile 6’ = $16 x Qty 2 = $32
    
  • 8/10mm “R” angle profile 8’ = $22 x Qty 4 = $90
    
  • Shipping = $540
    
    
• Home Depot (Total = $1068)
  
  • Plywood Siding 4’x8’ = $35 x Qty 6 = $210
    
  • Framing lumber
    
    • 2”x4”x8’ = $4 x Qty 48 = $176
      
    • 2”x4”x12’ = $8 x Qty 18 = $144
      
    • 4”x4”x8’ = $13 x Qty 4 = $52
      
    • 1”x2”x8’ = $1.50 x Qty 8 = $12
      
    • Pressure Treated
      
      • 2”x4”x8’ = $5 x Qty 2 = $10
        
      • 2”x4”x10’ = $6 x Qty 4 = $24
        
      • 2”x6”x8’ = $7 x Qty 2 = $14
        
  • Cedar
    
    • Fence pickets 5/8”x5½ ”x6’ = $2.85 x Qty 52 = $150
      
    • Square end baluster 2”x2”x3’ (6 pack) = $22 x Qty 3 = $66
      
  • Storm door = $90
    
  • Fasteners and other odds/ends = $120
    
    
• Amazon (Total = $450)
  
  • Double sided glazing tape 1/16” x 3/8” x 150’ = $17 x Qty 2 = $34 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SZ3RES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Burlap 3’x150’ = $46 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HQOGLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 40% Shade cloth (white) = $44 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079PSQQ7P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 18” Exhaust Fan = $143 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8I7HG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Adjustable Thermostat = $18 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TYK4A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Gable shutter = $42 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6DMEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Automatic Vent openers = $30 x Qty 4 = $120 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VYQ91P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
    
    
• Soil (Total = $290)
  
  • Compost 2 cuyd (picked up) = $40
    
  • Topsoil 2 cuyd (delivered) = $100
    
  • Peat Moss 3 cu-ft (Lowes) = $10 x Qty 15 = $150
    
    
    Planning steps
    
    
• We started with a known foot print and therefore decided to find what we thought would best fit within it.
  
• Plan planter box layout; make sure you have enough room to walk around and squat/bend/kneel down.
  
• Plan for excess space to have potting/seed starting bench and tool/supply storage.
  
• Figure out how many doors you want to have, maybe you want to have a door at each end. Factor if you want to get larger items inside like a wheel barrow to see if the door is wide enough.
  
• Look up and calculate ventilation requirements passive or active will result in different needs.
  
  
  Construction steps
  
  
• Calculate all dimensions and cuts needed to make before taking out tools.
  
  • Use Roof calculators listed below in Knowledge section for the more complicated dimensions like rise/run and bird mouth cut.
    
    • In our case the front wall is ~ 8’ the back wall is ~ 6’ and we chose to rest the rafter on top of the back wall and butt it into the front wall. This gave us a pitch of 2 in 12 or 10 degrees. This is right on the border of being able to self-shed snow but we figured since we can easily brush it off this low angle would be fine.
      
• Cut framing for front wall.
  
• Frame front wall on ground at 3’ OC (on center).
  
  • Stand front wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Add dwangs/sills between studs for additional support of panel and/or window locations.
  
• Cut framing for back wall.
  
• Frame back wall on ground 2’ OC.
  
• Cut plywood siding and attach to wall.
  
  • We needed to do this because of the short concrete wall at the back of the patio wouldn’t allow access to attach the siding.
    
  • Stand back wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Put layout marks on top of both walls for rafters 3’ OC.
  
• Check measurements for rafters and cut to correct angle, length, and bird mouth.
  
  • We choose to have the rafter terminate at the vertical edge of the double top plate (on the front wall) instead of resting on top of it. This way we could utilize the “R” angle profile to seal the roof panels to the wall panels.
    
    • Joist hangers could be used here to increase strength and we may add them going forward.
      
• Add dwangs between rafters to keep distance consistent, resist twisting, and additional support for panels.
  
• Frame side walls using same angle (10 degrees) created to make the roof.
  
  • Leave openings for Door (32”x80”), Exhaust fan (18.5”x18.5”), and gable vent (16”x16”).
    
• Prep H profiles by running glassing tape on back side to adhere to studs.
  
  • This will reduce the need for excess screws. I borrowed this idea from the Growing North blog listed below in the Knowledge section.
    
• Tape top (Aluminum) and bottom (Anti-Dust) of 6x8 a panel.
  
• Run glassing tape on perimeter of 6x8 panel to create a better seal and reduce need for fasteners.
  
• Slide H profile on to first 6x8 panel and install both on wall fasten using neoprene washer fasteners (DON’T CRUSH PANEL).
  
• Continue down the wall till complete.
  
• Measure and cut roof panels to size.
  
• Tape same as before with aluminum, anti-dust, and glassing.
  
• Install Roof panels in similar fashion to wall panels.
  
• Install “R” angle profile as you go along we found it best to slide it on to both panels from the side.
  
• Cut, Tape, and Install side wall panels/siding in same fashion as above.
  
• Install “F” Gable end to seal side wall to roof slide like on from side like “R” angle profile.
  
• Install storm door according to instructions.
  
• Build planter boxes according to layout.
  
  • Line bottom of planters with burlap and staple in place.
    
• Fill with soil
  
  
  Future plans
  
  
• Cut window openings and install automatic openers.
  
• Bring water and electric into greenhouse.
  
  • Wire up exhaust fan and several outlets for:
    
    • Grow lights
      
    • Circulation fans
      
  • Design/Install irrigation system.
    
• Potting/seed starting table.
  
• Tool storage.
  
• Vertical growing.
  
• Solar lights.
  
  
  Knowledge resources
  
  
• Roof calculators
  
  • https://www.blocklayer.com/roof/raftereng.aspx
    
  • https://www.mycarpentry.com/roof-pitch-calculator.html
    
• Growing North
  
  • http://growingnorth.ca/2014/12/greenhouse-building-part-3-installing-triple-wall-polycarbonate-plus-tips/
    

This spring I started a garden on my deck in Philadelphia. This was really the first time I gardened anything seriously and I’ve enjoyed myself immensely. Skip to the bottom for the album of it all.

I primarily started my plants from seeds without researching how they grow:

• Sugar Baby Watermelon
  
  
• Burpless Cucumbers
  
  
• Sungold Cherry Tomatoes
  
  
• Campari Tomatoes
  
  
• Spaghetti Squash (purchased plant)
  
  
• Green Bell Peppers (purchased plant)
  
  I quickly realized that I needed to be creative about how to manage these plants as a lot of them grow out instead of staying compact. Once the plants outgrew their medium sized pots, I needed a different solution. The major unlock for me was finding CaliKim's container gardening videos on YouTube that recommended planter bags. She also has a great method of making cage trellises that work perfectly in the bags she recommended.
  
  
• Container Gardening Video (there are more!)
  
  
• DIY Cage Trellis Video - I followed this one almost exactly
  
  
• Welded Wire fencing for the cages
  
  
• VIVOSUN 20-gallon planter bags were a major unlock to getting this system to work. The mobility is awesome. The red one with the spaghetti squash is a different brand (Root Pouch?) and is only 15-gallons. I strongly recommend getting 20-gallons for vegetables as they like deep routes for the most part. My squash is doing fine, but it’s definitely been slower than the bigger bags
  
  
• Half-Pallets I got for free from work to help get my plants off the ground and avoid rotting and promote drainage
  
  With this starting point I was able to get these plants into a compact space and still be able to thrive. Because I’ve got everything on top of each other there is some inter-mingling but for the most part things stay in their cages.
  
  My deck faces south and with the egregious Philadelphia summer I sometimes have to water twice a day to keep everything happy. I have done a lot of pruning to keep the plants reigned in and not way overgrow their plot.
  
  As the project progressed I realized I needed bamboo stakes to stabilize the cages and my non caged plants, and a few other random items listed below:
  
  
• Bamboo stakes for stability
  
  
• Velcro ties to guide plants where needed
  
  
• Shears for pruning
  
  
• Garden Netting used to make watermelon hammocks
  
  The watermelon needed hammocks to fend off gravity in this system, pole around YouTube for different ways people have done this
  
  In my research I got disheartened several times because many said growing watermelon or cucumber or squash in a compact space is extremely challenging and arguably not worth it. At that point I had already started the plants and I decided to give it a try anyway. To my delight things have turned out very well, and I wanted to share with any other urban gardeners who think they don’t have enough space for veggies.
  
  Next year I would grow more cucumbers and cage them instead of stake them (or maybe both). For the winter my plan is to leave the bags and soil outside and see how they hold up. It seems like they are able to handle snow / excess moisture without too much issue.
  
  https://imgur.com/gallery/jCqiEQH

What we can't see from that angle is how thick the canopy is. If RH is 35%, you shouldn't have rot issues. . .but is it 35% during dark cycle, too? I'd be defoliating if you had a bunch of bud sites that are covered up, but if your lollipopping went well, that's (hopefully) not much of an issue.

I'd say a second trellis net is your next move (5" or 6" spacing, not a whole new ScrOG net). Place it at the height of your tops, and zip tie them in place. Should let you move the bushier branch groupings out a bit, and let air/light through. Even from this pic, I could point out your main branches. You can spread all those out, and increase yield, without cutting anything. Also, you will likely need the extra support for the last few weeks of flower.

Overall. . .this just looks like a fantastic ScrOG canopy to me. Really well done. Don't be afraid to pull big fan leaves. If the strain is stable, it should be able to handle some pruning.

Yeah, those are all looking pretty good. You could probably harvest a lot of that big kale leafs.

Also, for cucumbers, try growing them vertically by constructing a trellis above them. Cucumbers and pumpkins do best when growing vertically as it exposes more flowers to the air (and pollinators).

I like this style: https://www.amazon.com/Gardeneer-Dalen-Trellis-Heavy-Duty-Tangle-Free/dp/B000BZ8FXS/

Also: sweet pad.

If it helps, this is the best value for a small garden that I found while searching for some anti-hail netting. ( So much of what I found would be like 50'x100') NE CO here, so I'm trying to be prepared for my first hail season!

Mitef Anti-Aging Orchard Anti-Hail Netting Vegetable Garden Hail Protect Netting,16.3x10ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZJ3TQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G3RRCb147GWXM

I cover plants that already have cages or supports. Individually or sometimes in pairs. The netting drapes over the top and I secure the bottoms with a few garden staples. I just pull out a staple or two and lift the netting when I want to access the plant.

I use this type of netting, cut to fit. If I were going to try to do a wider area, I would use something more like a micromesh with hoop supports. That allows you to do a bigger area and the birds and animals won't get stuck in it like they would in a netting.

So something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Gardeneer-Dalen-Trellis-Heavy-Duty-Tangle-Free/dp/B000BZ8FXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1457595755&sr=1-1&keywords=trellis

And then try to weave through there so anymore stretching goes sideways instead of up?


The LEC seems great. With my Hyperfan on 35% it stays between 5-10 deg. F warmer than the room the tent's in.


edit: Or maybe this would be a better idea since the mesh is smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGN15S-Trellis-Netting-3-5-Inch/dp/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457596396&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrofarm+trellis

4X4 tent, HLG 600 H Quantum Board, 707 soil watered/fed every 3 days. The clips are plant clips I normally would use on some bamboo... but hold to netting well too, The trellis is a bungee one off of Amazon:
( https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Elastic-Trellis-Netting-Dimensions/dp/B07RRVHHDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=trellis%2Bnetting&qid=1564796808&s=gateway&sprefix=trel&sr=8-9&th=1&psc=1)

Hope that helps!

Bird netting will help you get a bigger harvest next year.

Congratulations on these beauties!

I'd fence them in and then cover the area with bird netting. That's what we did with the 90' x 30' area that my girlfriend's chickens live in. It's a hassle to put up, but will keep anything from above from getting them. Plants will still grow through the stuff and it ends up sagging over time. Ideally you'd want to replace it every year or two.

You can see the netting in this pic

We used something just like this: https://www.amazon.com/BOKNIGHT-Netting-Poultry-Aviary-Square/dp/B076PYYLMH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bird+netting&qid=1556405241&s=gateway&sr=8-4

We also have that foil stuff up. No idea if it actually helps at all. The chickens don't seemed bothered by it at all.

That is one a nice Truck. Tons of room for activities.

The answer I have to your question is reliant on whether or not you're stealth camping. I purchased this Bug Net. Then cut it to the size of my back hatch and installed it with some velcro tape. Combined with the open windows it provides plenty of airflow. If you've tried sleeping with the gate down and are still getting too hot some battery powdered fans can definitely help. I also purchased two of these. The battery on em is short and I don't remember them being that expensive. However, their power consumption is low and I can charge em real quick with a portable battery.

I am able to sleep comfortably in my camper shell during the summer. But I am from Minnesota and it doesn't get too hot up here.

https://imgur.com/a/a7SQ8zs

Here’s also the link for the trellis netting.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RHZTVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p-h5CbGTTMPCC

Like I said, this netting made for very easy installation in my tent as all I needed to do was hook them on to the frames . In your case, you could possibly build your own frame using pvc and the netting or with some other materials you prefer. Hope all works out.

I've had good success with this, a little pricey depending on yard size but it gets the job done
Easy Gardener 3103 3x150 Natural... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HQOGLQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I tried to control by picking last year (my first year), and it is a lot of work for very little success. This year, I bought this row cover, which I'll support with wire hoops I bend out of yard scraps and garden staples. I haven't tried it, but everyone says BT works really well. You may still have time to fashion some row covers, though.

> Are potatoes and peas a best bet?

Yes, and they complement each other really well as companions in the same bed/pot. Add some squash and corn in the mix, then you'll really be cooking with fire. The best way to optimize peas and squash is to grow them on a nylon trellis. You'll get stupid amounts of squash.

If calories is your primary goal, think about livestock. You can easily do rabbits, chickens, ducks, geese, and pigeons locally with little effort. If you have space, think about pigs and goats or lamb.

The other option is processing and preserving your food. A handful of tomatoes is going to have a low caloric output, but if you grow 125 pounds of tomatoes and reduce that to 12 pounds of tomato sauce or 6 pounds of tomato paste, those are very calorie dense. Same with squash: cook it to break down the fibers, slow heat to boil off the water, then add some curry powder and spices - you've got calorie dense pumpkin curry to throw in the freezer.

1. Make a facebook group (And ask kindly if you can post your events in other generic geeky meetup.com groups). Possibly LARP groups.
   
2. Or Pay $10/month for meetup.com group
   
3. Make a waiver form of some sort. http://files.meetup.com/18431539/SAANGwaiver.pdf
   
4. Decide if you will include kids (And figure out statutory liability with that. Usually by demanding that the parents are present when games are played.)
   
5. Look up local city park rules and regulations, and see if something "gun-like" is allowed in the part. (i.e. My local city park doesn't even allow slingshots).
   
6. Find yourself a nice patch of grass or something where you can play, without getting to near to normal passerby's.
   
7. Require everyone wear sunglasses or other eyewear.
   
8. Enforce non-violent language at the events. i.e. "- We play with blasters, not guns. - We use darts for ammunition, not bullets. - We tag people, we do not shoot them. ".
   
9. Possibly, if you think there will be any concern from bystanders, maybe inform the local police that you are playing with Nerf blasters at the location.
   
   As for barriers, follow this guide, and buy stuff like the stuff below:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyANyP1m9vc
   
   3/4 pvc tees, 10 pack
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-Tee-10-Pack-CP401-007/202101752
   
   Thinwall 3/4 PVC pipe.
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Class-200-Plain-End-Pipe-57570/100168741
   
   3/4 pvc elbows
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-90-Degree-Elbow-C406-007/100347455
   
   Mosquito netting, cut into 4 pieces
   https://www.amazon.com/Mosquito-Barrier-Hunting-Netting-Gardeningwill/dp/B00MB8YH2Q/
   
   Duct Tape
   
   Hacksaw or PipeCutter
   
   Scissors
   
   (Maybe a drill and string too)
   
   ____
   
   Lastly, you will need enough blasters for at least 3v3.
   
   Decide what you want to supply for that.
   
   The lowest price I know possible is two packs of tri-fires.
   http://www.target.com/p/dart-zone-174-tri-fire-blasters-3-pack/-/A-50560051
   
   Along with some keyrings, because the priming handle on those blasters is difficult.
   https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-1-Inch-Package/dp/B008YLHMO4
   
   Actual triads are good at twice that price.
   https://www.amazon.com/Nerf-N-Strike-Elite-Triad-Blaster/dp/B009T45X82
   
   I also find it's really handy to have a ziploc bag with two pieces of ductape on one side, then cut belt loops in the bag. (And supply some rough string for people without belts).
   
   Ebay often has a supply of inexpensive darts to use.
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/172498847980?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
   
   __
   
   Although depending on your area you may be able to just go to a Goodwill and find a bunch of cheap blasters.
   
   That or use craigslist, letgo, offerup, varagesale to find cheap blasters for sale in your area.
   
   __
   
   

I like it, worked well enough I think for my first grow, but I'm still quite the amateur.

GROWNEER Flexible Net Trellis for Grow Tents, Fits 4x4 and More Size, Includes 4 Steel Hooks, 36 Growing Spaces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773HHBK7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gLfWDbHJS90K2

My dogs and my turtles keep eating my mom's vegetables so I think she would like this [Garden Netting] (http://www.amazon.com/Dalen-Gardeneer-30-Foot-Trellis-TP-30C/dp/B000BZ8FXS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2CCD8H3KKWZ5A&coliid=I2K8ZVBFE6KYVX).

Thanks for the contest! :D

Better option is noseeum netting. Something like this.

I don't have many pictures to share, but to prevent deer from getting into my 60' x 20' garden, I did the following:


I bought 18 seven foot long metal U-posts from Lowes ($6.98 each), and drove them into the ground (with a damn sledgehammer, while standing on a plastic chair set on cardboard so it wouldn't sink into the ground, since the post driver tools I had access to weren't big enough for the size of the U-post). Once in the ground, that left about 5.5 feet of post above ground. I have seven posts on each side (the 60 foot lengths) and then two additional posts on the 20 foot ends to provide a doorway/gate opening.

I had purchased 7.5 foot high wildlife netting (about $20/pack, and I bought 3 packs), which I'd thought would work well with the 7 foot posts (leaving some extra to pin to the ground to prevent animals from digging under it), but while I was aware of the fact that driving the posts into the ground would result in less height, I don't think I knew it would be a foot and a half less. I had read deer can jump over fences less than 8 feet high, so--while I wouldn't go to 8 feet--I wanted more height than the 5.5' I had. So I bought 36 eight foot long treated pine furring strips ($1.97/piece so about $72 total), to fasten to each of the metal posts to provide additional height.

I positioned the posts on the long side at ten foot intervals, and the gate openings are about 8 feet from each corner. I then took two furring strips and would lie them on the ground, and cut a piece of netting to the necessary length to go between each set of posts, and then stapled the netting to the posts. I then took the "panel" of netting, and using zip ties, fastened the furring strips to the metal posts.

I had initially been thinking the netting would run as one continuous length for the full 60 foot length of each side, but I decided to put it together in "panels," if you will, both because I thought it would be less likely to sag (since the lengths would only be about 10 feet long, and because I thought it would be easier to keep them taut at shorter lengths), and also because I realized I could also conceivably remove the 10 foot panels of netting (while still fastened to the furring strips), and roll them up for winter storage (figuring the weight of snow and/or ice on the netting would likely cause problems).

When I started making the panels, I left about 12 inches of netting hanging below the bottom of the furring strips, thinking it would be useful in preventing animals from crawling/digging under the net, but I later realized that the extra netting at the bottom would likely just make my life harder when it came to weeding, and that my neighboring gardeners (I'm at a community garden) would be more likely to step on it, get caught on it, inadvertently pull it out, etc. I was also losing an extra foot in "fence" height by leaving that extra net hanging off of the bottom. So about halfway through my panel construction, I started keeping the net flush with the bottom of the furring strips, and instead putting it up about a foot higher on the strip. I need to go back and re-staple the ones at the lower height, so that they're all the same height.

The doorway/gates are just smaller panels, one size zip-tied to a metal post, and the other with a zip tie left loose so that it can slip over the top of the metal post on the other side to allow for opening/closing the door/gate.

Some pictures....it's hard to even see the netting, but trust me, it's there.

The plot before any fencing.

After the fence was in place, looking toward the back of the garden. "Gate" at left corner.

After the fence was in place, looking toward the front of the garden. "Gate" at center.

Thanks, here you go:


https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGN30S-Flexible-Trellis-Netting/dp/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=trellis%2Bnetting&qid=1573581349&sprefix=trelli&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

The fabric was pretty stretchy on the trellis to begin with, so it was just a matter of pulling it tight enough when I setup the bungee cords, then cutting the leftovers. Here is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only started it in early flowering but it's been helpful to keep the 3 strains a similar height. That cheese in the front left wants to take off for the sky.

I had mine over a bed, it is supposed to work as you can see in the link I sent, but I found it shaded off too much. I don't know. You may have a thought as the lettuce likes it cooler. I mean this kind.
https://www.amazon.com/Tcamp-Heavy-Duty-Polyester-Trellis-Netting/dp/B07NV6B1Z2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=39WAVNIV092E1&keywords=trellis+netting+for+climbing+plants&qid=1562173058&s=gateway&sprefix=trellis+nett%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Grapes need sun, the fruit. I have to pull off leaves tomorrow. Fungus attacks the fruit as well as the leaves, so sun helps keep the fungus down. Other than that, I don't know of any. Peppers and tomatoes get sun burnt actually.

If you have small trees you’ve recently planted, make sure you put 1/4” or smaller garden mesh over them. [Here’s one I just ordered] (https://www.amazon.com/Agfabric-Standard-Netting-against-Squirrels/dp/B00X3AXS6W/ref=aw_st_pd_dx_piup_1/142-8814630-1479961?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X3AXS6W&pd_rd_r=3d5ff29c-d2e5-436d-8248-a33760db4c9f&pd_rd_w=w2VVE&pd_rd_wg=74rJZ&pf_rd_p=ba1e24cc-8b1a-400c-95be-f22d87d23cfd&pf_rd_r=0KYT38MAY7E83K1CFNPR&psc=1&refRID=0KYT38MAY7E83K1CFNPR)

It should be ok, most cats know not to jump. However, you could always install mesh fencing like this.

I stapled mosquito netting over my hardware cloth from the inside of the coop pick a size and cut it

Then inside the coop I have a 20" weather shield box fan hanging from the ceiling blowing air at 45 degree angle out the door. Mosquitos are poor flyers and cant get past the fan. Expect to replace the fan once every spring.

I think so. Plastic bags can be reused, but if you use cheap thin ones they kinda fall apart in the sun and only one time use.

I know there is paper bags with I think a wax coating. I believe people have used pantyhose.

Amazon sells these:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Protect-Insects-Mosquito-Shipping/dp/B07434J8DK/

https://www.amazon.com/Alltripal-Reusable-Protection-Vegetable-7-87X9-84inch/dp/B07SS92MQ6

Which are more reusable and mesh. I have never used them so I can't say how good they are/aren't.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardening-Vegetables-Durability-Think-Crucial/dp/B07259RWNT/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1497473153&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=trellis+netting&psc=1

Listen to the GrowBoss.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHqRutet2yA&t=217s

Build an H-shape target frame from PVC, and use fine netting to catch your brass.

If you don't want to fiddle with stuff, here is a manufactured option: http://www.bubca.com/index.html