Reddit mentions: The best raised beds & plant support structures

That’s great!

I can answer your questions. For your first year you should aim for easy wins and success. Start with low goals and build steadily so you don’t get overwhelmed.

> Do I buy plants already growing from a nursery or do I buy seeds?

Start with buying “starts” (already established plants) from your nursery. Gardeners tend to aim for season-based harvesting: spring, summer, fall and winter harvest. Because winter is coming, you should probably pick up some brassicas (kale, cabbage, collard greens, mustard, ect). Ask around at your nursery for what they recommend, they’ll be experts about what grows in your area. Be sure to ask a few of the nurseries what the recommend, because one nursery might try to off-load the late season stuff and you’ll be disappointed with your harvest.

> fence mounted, thin gardens enough space for most of these kinds of plants or do they need more soil depth?

Generally, you can grow almost all plants in small pots, however the overall size of your plant will be limited, so your harvest will be much smaller. With this small of space (6” width, maybe 4-6” deep) you’ll be better off doing herbs. Mint, thyme, and many balms will do well in such a small space. If you really want to grow in such a tight space, you might consider something like a DIY Hydroponic setup, which can be constructed from PVC pipe pretty easily. Check out the info on /r/hydro. You actually don’t need to be too concerned about depth of roots, but there’s more time to learn that later. Generally, I would recommend something larger than this (see below).

> Am I too late in the year?

Nope! It’s never a bad time of year to start gardening, but you will need to grow and harvest plants in the right season. Unfortunately, you are too late for outdoor grown tomatoes, but there’s always next year! Most people are picking their ripe tomatoes right now, and they’re exclusively a summer-time plant. Surely someone local has produced a seasonal gardening calendar that explains what plants to seed/start/harvest in your area.

> Can I buy things like lettuce already germinated and ready to plant or do I need to work from the seeds up, and will this put me too late in the year?

As I said above, buy starts. Lettuce won’t grow too large in such a limited container, it will stay alive but it won’t grow too much. Don’t worry about growing from seeds, it’s not critical with any plant. Come spring time, try your hand at starting plants from seeds.

--------------

It sounds like you need a lot of general garden information. I would highly recommend you check out the “Square Foot Gardening” method and buy the book on Amazon. It covers absolutely every element you need to know about growing food in a garden, and is a high-yield, low cost solution.

Here’s some other thoughts for you: I wouldn’t recommend growing on the fence. Instead, depending upon your lightening conditions, I would recommend buying large pots and lining your fence wall. Some large 20-gallon (or larger) pots will allow for your roots to get in deeper, your soil to retain water better, and for more microbiology in your soil system (for example, beneficial worms can live in a large pot, but they won’t live in small pots). You’ll want to use your fence side for growing vertically. Pick up some nylon trellis and some EMT conduit to make a cheap trellis system; or just hang the trellis netting from the fence. Growing your plants vertically is a great way to get high yield. Keeping your plants in larger pots ensures they’ll grow larger.

Do you have space in a yard that gets adequate light? If so, definitely consider growing on the ground. Some 4’x4’ square foot gardens will get you much more yield that better aligns with what you’re looking for. In addition, it’s easier to install a hoop house to provide insulation and a longer growing season.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks everyone for the support, advice and comments! We didn't realize we'd get such a response so here are the promised additional info and pics!

Supplies (Total = $4153)

• Greenhouse Megastore (Total = $2345)
  
  • 8mm Triple Wall Polycarbonate panels ($120 crating charge)
    
    • 6’x8’ = $99 (per panel) x Qty 7 = $693
      
    • 6’x11’ = $136 (per panel) x Qty 5 = $680
      
  • 1 piece H profile 8mm
    
    • 8’ long = $15 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $78
      
    • 6’ long = $8 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $65
      
  • Anti-Dust bottom tape 1 roll = $30
    
  • Top sealing aluminum tape 1 roll = $17
    
  • 8/10mm “F” Gable end profile 6’ = $16 x Qty 2 = $32
    
  • 8/10mm “R” angle profile 8’ = $22 x Qty 4 = $90
    
  • Shipping = $540
    
    
• Home Depot (Total = $1068)
  
  • Plywood Siding 4’x8’ = $35 x Qty 6 = $210
    
  • Framing lumber
    
    • 2”x4”x8’ = $4 x Qty 48 = $176
      
    • 2”x4”x12’ = $8 x Qty 18 = $144
      
    • 4”x4”x8’ = $13 x Qty 4 = $52
      
    • 1”x2”x8’ = $1.50 x Qty 8 = $12
      
    • Pressure Treated
      
      • 2”x4”x8’ = $5 x Qty 2 = $10
        
      • 2”x4”x10’ = $6 x Qty 4 = $24
        
      • 2”x6”x8’ = $7 x Qty 2 = $14
        
  • Cedar
    
    • Fence pickets 5/8”x5½ ”x6’ = $2.85 x Qty 52 = $150
      
    • Square end baluster 2”x2”x3’ (6 pack) = $22 x Qty 3 = $66
      
  • Storm door = $90
    
  • Fasteners and other odds/ends = $120
    
    
• Amazon (Total = $450)
  
  • Double sided glazing tape 1/16” x 3/8” x 150’ = $17 x Qty 2 = $34 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SZ3RES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Burlap 3’x150’ = $46 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HQOGLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 40% Shade cloth (white) = $44 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079PSQQ7P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 18” Exhaust Fan = $143 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8I7HG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Adjustable Thermostat = $18 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TYK4A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Gable shutter = $42 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6DMEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Automatic Vent openers = $30 x Qty 4 = $120 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VYQ91P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
    
    
• Soil (Total = $290)
  
  • Compost 2 cuyd (picked up) = $40
    
  • Topsoil 2 cuyd (delivered) = $100
    
  • Peat Moss 3 cu-ft (Lowes) = $10 x Qty 15 = $150
    
    
    Planning steps
    
    
• We started with a known foot print and therefore decided to find what we thought would best fit within it.
  
• Plan planter box layout; make sure you have enough room to walk around and squat/bend/kneel down.
  
• Plan for excess space to have potting/seed starting bench and tool/supply storage.
  
• Figure out how many doors you want to have, maybe you want to have a door at each end. Factor if you want to get larger items inside like a wheel barrow to see if the door is wide enough.
  
• Look up and calculate ventilation requirements passive or active will result in different needs.
  
  
  Construction steps
  
  
• Calculate all dimensions and cuts needed to make before taking out tools.
  
  • Use Roof calculators listed below in Knowledge section for the more complicated dimensions like rise/run and bird mouth cut.
    
    • In our case the front wall is ~ 8’ the back wall is ~ 6’ and we chose to rest the rafter on top of the back wall and butt it into the front wall. This gave us a pitch of 2 in 12 or 10 degrees. This is right on the border of being able to self-shed snow but we figured since we can easily brush it off this low angle would be fine.
      
• Cut framing for front wall.
  
• Frame front wall on ground at 3’ OC (on center).
  
  • Stand front wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Add dwangs/sills between studs for additional support of panel and/or window locations.
  
• Cut framing for back wall.
  
• Frame back wall on ground 2’ OC.
  
• Cut plywood siding and attach to wall.
  
  • We needed to do this because of the short concrete wall at the back of the patio wouldn’t allow access to attach the siding.
    
  • Stand back wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Put layout marks on top of both walls for rafters 3’ OC.
  
• Check measurements for rafters and cut to correct angle, length, and bird mouth.
  
  • We choose to have the rafter terminate at the vertical edge of the double top plate (on the front wall) instead of resting on top of it. This way we could utilize the “R” angle profile to seal the roof panels to the wall panels.
    
    • Joist hangers could be used here to increase strength and we may add them going forward.
      
• Add dwangs between rafters to keep distance consistent, resist twisting, and additional support for panels.
  
• Frame side walls using same angle (10 degrees) created to make the roof.
  
  • Leave openings for Door (32”x80”), Exhaust fan (18.5”x18.5”), and gable vent (16”x16”).
    
• Prep H profiles by running glassing tape on back side to adhere to studs.
  
  • This will reduce the need for excess screws. I borrowed this idea from the Growing North blog listed below in the Knowledge section.
    
• Tape top (Aluminum) and bottom (Anti-Dust) of 6x8 a panel.
  
• Run glassing tape on perimeter of 6x8 panel to create a better seal and reduce need for fasteners.
  
• Slide H profile on to first 6x8 panel and install both on wall fasten using neoprene washer fasteners (DON’T CRUSH PANEL).
  
• Continue down the wall till complete.
  
• Measure and cut roof panels to size.
  
• Tape same as before with aluminum, anti-dust, and glassing.
  
• Install Roof panels in similar fashion to wall panels.
  
• Install “R” angle profile as you go along we found it best to slide it on to both panels from the side.
  
• Cut, Tape, and Install side wall panels/siding in same fashion as above.
  
• Install “F” Gable end to seal side wall to roof slide like on from side like “R” angle profile.
  
• Install storm door according to instructions.
  
• Build planter boxes according to layout.
  
  • Line bottom of planters with burlap and staple in place.
    
• Fill with soil
  
  
  Future plans
  
  
• Cut window openings and install automatic openers.
  
• Bring water and electric into greenhouse.
  
  • Wire up exhaust fan and several outlets for:
    
    • Grow lights
      
    • Circulation fans
      
  • Design/Install irrigation system.
    
• Potting/seed starting table.
  
• Tool storage.
  
• Vertical growing.
  
• Solar lights.
  
  
  Knowledge resources
  
  
• Roof calculators
  
  • https://www.blocklayer.com/roof/raftereng.aspx
    
  • https://www.mycarpentry.com/roof-pitch-calculator.html
    
• Growing North
  
  • http://growingnorth.ca/2014/12/greenhouse-building-part-3-installing-triple-wall-polycarbonate-plus-tips/
    

This spring I started a garden on my deck in Philadelphia. This was really the first time I gardened anything seriously and I’ve enjoyed myself immensely. Skip to the bottom for the album of it all.

I primarily started my plants from seeds without researching how they grow:

• Sugar Baby Watermelon
  
  
• Burpless Cucumbers
  
  
• Sungold Cherry Tomatoes
  
  
• Campari Tomatoes
  
  
• Spaghetti Squash (purchased plant)
  
  
• Green Bell Peppers (purchased plant)
  
  I quickly realized that I needed to be creative about how to manage these plants as a lot of them grow out instead of staying compact. Once the plants outgrew their medium sized pots, I needed a different solution. The major unlock for me was finding CaliKim's container gardening videos on YouTube that recommended planter bags. She also has a great method of making cage trellises that work perfectly in the bags she recommended.
  
  
• Container Gardening Video (there are more!)
  
  
• DIY Cage Trellis Video - I followed this one almost exactly
  
  
• Welded Wire fencing for the cages
  
  
• VIVOSUN 20-gallon planter bags were a major unlock to getting this system to work. The mobility is awesome. The red one with the spaghetti squash is a different brand (Root Pouch?) and is only 15-gallons. I strongly recommend getting 20-gallons for vegetables as they like deep routes for the most part. My squash is doing fine, but it’s definitely been slower than the bigger bags
  
  
• Half-Pallets I got for free from work to help get my plants off the ground and avoid rotting and promote drainage
  
  With this starting point I was able to get these plants into a compact space and still be able to thrive. Because I’ve got everything on top of each other there is some inter-mingling but for the most part things stay in their cages.
  
  My deck faces south and with the egregious Philadelphia summer I sometimes have to water twice a day to keep everything happy. I have done a lot of pruning to keep the plants reigned in and not way overgrow their plot.
  
  As the project progressed I realized I needed bamboo stakes to stabilize the cages and my non caged plants, and a few other random items listed below:
  
  
• Bamboo stakes for stability
  
  
• Velcro ties to guide plants where needed
  
  
• Shears for pruning
  
  
• Garden Netting used to make watermelon hammocks
  
  The watermelon needed hammocks to fend off gravity in this system, pole around YouTube for different ways people have done this
  
  In my research I got disheartened several times because many said growing watermelon or cucumber or squash in a compact space is extremely challenging and arguably not worth it. At that point I had already started the plants and I decided to give it a try anyway. To my delight things have turned out very well, and I wanted to share with any other urban gardeners who think they don’t have enough space for veggies.
  
  Next year I would grow more cucumbers and cage them instead of stake them (or maybe both). For the winter my plan is to leave the bags and soil outside and see how they hold up. It seems like they are able to handle snow / excess moisture without too much issue.
  
  https://imgur.com/gallery/jCqiEQH

What we can't see from that angle is how thick the canopy is. If RH is 35%, you shouldn't have rot issues. . .but is it 35% during dark cycle, too? I'd be defoliating if you had a bunch of bud sites that are covered up, but if your lollipopping went well, that's (hopefully) not much of an issue.

I'd say a second trellis net is your next move (5" or 6" spacing, not a whole new ScrOG net). Place it at the height of your tops, and zip tie them in place. Should let you move the bushier branch groupings out a bit, and let air/light through. Even from this pic, I could point out your main branches. You can spread all those out, and increase yield, without cutting anything. Also, you will likely need the extra support for the last few weeks of flower.

Overall. . .this just looks like a fantastic ScrOG canopy to me. Really well done. Don't be afraid to pull big fan leaves. If the strain is stable, it should be able to handle some pruning.

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.

​

EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

>I was going to put a couple of inches of sand, and use the paver base panels

A couple inches of sand? No, no more than an inch. I don't have any experience with paver base panels, but in laying typical pavers anything more than an inch and the sand becomes very unstable. I assume the sand functions similar with base panels - it's there to make it easy to level, and it locks things into place. What's the recommended lay

​

>I was going to level out the ground, but do I need to excavate a few inches? I'm planning on putting rock around it, and I was hoping not to.

You don't have to excavate so long as you're ok with having the pavers above grade, and you secure the edges. I used that edging that you used and it worked well. It went under my sand (1") and there was still enough lip to hold the pavers in. I don't know how thick the base panels are, but so long as the total depth isn't much more than an inch you should be OK. Also, make sure to get long metal nails to secure the edging, don'e use the wimpy nylon ones that come with the set. The compacted base helps secure the stakes, and you don't have that, but you should be ok if you have a hard clay ground to drive them into.

​

Edit: here's the edging I used. It cost a little more than the stuff at home depot but it was very sturdy.

I have squash and cucumbers in my other raised bed. In my previous experience, the squash ended up taking waaaay more real estate than I planned for originally. They ended up all over each other and toward the end of the season, I lost a some of them to powdery mildew. I also had some issues with blossom end rot, but I'm not sure if that was due to the overcrowding or possibly a soil nutrient issue. Lesson learned. This time I'm giving them plenty of space, and planting them close enough to the edge of the bed so they can hang over the edge and spread if they feel like it.

I did have a good bit of success with my cucumbers, using a trellis. I installed a wooden folding trellis like this but larger with cucumbers at the base on both sides. With a little training, they climbed up one side and down the other without overtaking each other. I was happy with the yield and ended up giving everyone in my family a jar or two of pickles for Christmas!

I found a no name branded version of this Velcro at the dollar store for a couple bucks.

https://www.amazon.ca/VELCRO-Brand-Adjustable-Gardens-Gardening/dp/B00NC5C38W

It’s meant for gardening but has been awesome for cable management. I was able to route all my cables in one chunk all together and use about 8-10 inches of this stuff to strap up the “trunk of cables” all together is every foot or so. It works awesome. Super cheap, can be taken off and reattached and has held fine for me so far. It’s not the strongest Velcro but for a few cables it has worked for me.

Yeah, those are all looking pretty good. You could probably harvest a lot of that big kale leafs.

Also, for cucumbers, try growing them vertically by constructing a trellis above them. Cucumbers and pumpkins do best when growing vertically as it exposes more flowers to the air (and pollinators).

I like this style: https://www.amazon.com/Gardeneer-Dalen-Trellis-Heavy-Duty-Tangle-Free/dp/B000BZ8FXS/

Also: sweet pad.

The downside to lags if travelling internationally is the need for an impact driver, which is difficult to transport and expensive to pick up here. Considering they only have a 2 person tent, I'm going to venture a guess and say they can't ship much equipment.

Pounding four small pieces of rebar is all of two minutes of work with a hammer. Really not so big of a deal that it needs to be completely avoided. It'd be different if they were building a large structure with dozens of stakes to pound, but it's a tiny tent with 4 stakes. No need to scare the newbies away!

OP - for a small tent, pretty much take your pick. I like these personally, since they have a big loop on them that makes it easy to attach tarps or whatever else you need to attach (like something to tie your chair or garbage bag to). The loop also makes them easy to remove - If you pour a little water in the hole, you can jiggle the first one out using pretty much anything (the hammer handle, thread your bike lock through the loop, anything), the rest can be easily pulled out using the first one through the loop for leverage.

For a small tent, you could also use large nails, lags are an option if you have access to a drill but I wouldn't go out of my way to buy one, playa staples, regular rebar (look in a construction supply store - somewhere you'd buy lumber), or even military stakes will do. You definitely need more than the tiny stakes that come with your tent, but there's no need to overthink it :)

I ordered them on Amazon, here is the link ! They took a bit to get here from China, but they work amazing! And look pretty cool, I think!

Thanks, that sounds like a good approach.

Do you think this 18" stake would be good enough?

Or do you have a specific 2 foot long product in mind? The 2 foot long ones I've found so far look like they would rust easily (and don't look like much of a stake...).

I cover plants that already have cages or supports. Individually or sometimes in pairs. The netting drapes over the top and I secure the bottoms with a few garden staples. I just pull out a staple or two and lift the netting when I want to access the plant.

I use this type of netting, cut to fit. If I were going to try to do a wider area, I would use something more like a micromesh with hoop supports. That allows you to do a bigger area and the birds and animals won't get stuck in it like they would in a netting.

So something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Gardeneer-Dalen-Trellis-Heavy-Duty-Tangle-Free/dp/B000BZ8FXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1457595755&sr=1-1&keywords=trellis

And then try to weave through there so anymore stretching goes sideways instead of up?


The LEC seems great. With my Hyperfan on 35% it stays between 5-10 deg. F warmer than the room the tent's in.


edit: Or maybe this would be a better idea since the mesh is smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGN15S-Trellis-Netting-3-5-Inch/dp/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457596396&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrofarm+trellis

Winds at Burning Man can exceed 60mph and will pick up anything that isn't secured properly. At BM everyone uses 2-3 foot rebar to secure their tents from blowing away in the strong winds (or the new hotness, 18" lag bolts).

Sounds like the organizers think the winds at the location are strong enough to warrant using rebar.

If you've never used rebar before, you need a small sledgehammer to drive them into the ground, vice grips to pull them out, tennis balls to cap the ends to people don't slash their legs open when stumbling over them in the night. Also if you get rebar with a loop at the end or J hook rebar they are much easier to pull out since you can use another piece of rebar as leverage when pulling it out.

Bird netting will help you get a bigger harvest next year.

Congratulations on these beauties!

I wish my eye was that great! Thanks to you providing the name of the tent, I was able to look it up.

Okay, to set it up in high winds, try imagining it in high winds. Let's also pretend that the pin and ring system will hold securely in the end of the pole.

Pull out the end of your tent you want facing into the wind out and stake it down. Unroll the rest of your tent. Slide all your tent poles through and secure the far end. Finish pushing the tent poles through to create the arch, but leave the arches on the ground. When the tent poles are all in, pull out the other end of the tent to pop up the tent, and stake it down. Now put in the rest of the stakes and guylines.

Doing it this way kind of works with the wind instead of against it.

Bigger stakes are a good idea. Stakes pulling out is a big reason why big tents fail. Using the guy lines will also help the tent keep its shape in the wind and prevent the poles from bending to failure. I love that you can go crazy with stakes when you're car camping, so you could use these bonkers stakes if you wanted to...and there are even more extreme stakes available. That said, I usually use these stakes and 3d print new heads when the originals break.

It is pretty useful! Actually, I use tomato clips that I order on Amazon. Here's a link to them. They work really well, they trap the string so you don't even have to secure it at the base.

I got these the other day for mine and they're super easy to just stick in the pot without messing with roots or repotting.

PeerBasics, Indoor Plant Trellis Bundle Pack, 6 Climbing Garden Leaf Shape Supports, 10 Large Flower Lever Loop Gripper Clips, 10 Zip Ties for DYI Climbing Stems Stalks & Vine Vegetable Potted Garden https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF3F37W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.xxZDbGAPRZE8

Edit: Sorry for the formatting, I'm on mobile.

No joke there... I got these ones to use at Electric Forest and stake down our canopies with ratchet straps and I'm way pleased with them! Also love that you called them lollipop sticks.... BWAHAHAHAHAHA!

You can probably lower the HPS a bit, and the CFLs can be as close as you can get them without touching leaves. Looks great aside from the stretching though! You can keep them up by tying to a bamboo stake like one of these that you might be able to find at like Home Depot or Lowes or whatever or to a clean long thin stick, but you might actually want to tie/bend them away from the center instead of straight up so you can keep the light closer

I've had good success with this, a little pricey depending on yard size but it gets the job done
Easy Gardener 3103 3x150 Natural... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HQOGLQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.de/Snapy-Insektenfänger-gelb-grün-blau/dp/B000RL8L6C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=snappy+insektenfänger&qid=1569490977&sprefix=snappy&sr=8-3

This might help a bit with catching them. No cup/ piece of paper wangjangle. You can keep them at a healthy distance and then throw them out the window without having to kill them and clean up the mush afterwards.

I use this

Works really well. I love khangstars videos too. I watch loads of them

What do you mean by “good stuff”? If you mean nutrients, I’d recommend a high quality feed such as Formulex, I swear by it. It’s not as nitrogen heavy as cheaper plant food and has a long list of trace nutrients which encourage more balanced growth and more robust plants. I’m surprised you haven’t fed them at all by now, I usually start feeding after a plant has been in new soil for about 3 or 4 months.

If you’re referring to the acidity of the soil itself, there are cheap ph meters you can buy on amazon that will give you a rough guide, but the soil is unlikely to change ph very much after just a year. If the soil really has changed ph drastically somehow, there are additives you can get specifically to alter the acidity of your soil.

Formulex 1L Liquid https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003UMQRWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.UkbBbHX2VBP5

Should have bought some plant yo yos and let her finish completely. She looks good though.

VIVOSUN Retractable Plant Yoyo with Stopper for Grow Support in Tent Garden or Hydroponics, Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNHQQD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qj2LDb745H2GP

I tried to control by picking last year (my first year), and it is a lot of work for very little success. This year, I bought this row cover, which I'll support with wire hoops I bend out of yard scraps and garden staples. I haven't tried it, but everyone says BT works really well. You may still have time to fashion some row covers, though.

> Are potatoes and peas a best bet?

Yes, and they complement each other really well as companions in the same bed/pot. Add some squash and corn in the mix, then you'll really be cooking with fire. The best way to optimize peas and squash is to grow them on a nylon trellis. You'll get stupid amounts of squash.

If calories is your primary goal, think about livestock. You can easily do rabbits, chickens, ducks, geese, and pigeons locally with little effort. If you have space, think about pigs and goats or lamb.

The other option is processing and preserving your food. A handful of tomatoes is going to have a low caloric output, but if you grow 125 pounds of tomatoes and reduce that to 12 pounds of tomato sauce or 6 pounds of tomato paste, those are very calorie dense. Same with squash: cook it to break down the fibers, slow heat to boil off the water, then add some curry powder and spices - you've got calorie dense pumpkin curry to throw in the freezer.

Probably, but I ordered from Amazon.

I got 4 foot stakes, and now wish I had gotten 5 or 6 feet long.

Stakes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051GUQO8/ref=twister_B011BDKNR4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Clips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QHL5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

1. Make a facebook group (And ask kindly if you can post your events in other generic geeky meetup.com groups). Possibly LARP groups.
   
2. Or Pay $10/month for meetup.com group
   
3. Make a waiver form of some sort. http://files.meetup.com/18431539/SAANGwaiver.pdf
   
4. Decide if you will include kids (And figure out statutory liability with that. Usually by demanding that the parents are present when games are played.)
   
5. Look up local city park rules and regulations, and see if something "gun-like" is allowed in the part. (i.e. My local city park doesn't even allow slingshots).
   
6. Find yourself a nice patch of grass or something where you can play, without getting to near to normal passerby's.
   
7. Require everyone wear sunglasses or other eyewear.
   
8. Enforce non-violent language at the events. i.e. "- We play with blasters, not guns. - We use darts for ammunition, not bullets. - We tag people, we do not shoot them. ".
   
9. Possibly, if you think there will be any concern from bystanders, maybe inform the local police that you are playing with Nerf blasters at the location.
   
   As for barriers, follow this guide, and buy stuff like the stuff below:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyANyP1m9vc
   
   3/4 pvc tees, 10 pack
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-Tee-10-Pack-CP401-007/202101752
   
   Thinwall 3/4 PVC pipe.
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Class-200-Plain-End-Pipe-57570/100168741
   
   3/4 pvc elbows
   http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-90-Degree-Elbow-C406-007/100347455
   
   Mosquito netting, cut into 4 pieces
   https://www.amazon.com/Mosquito-Barrier-Hunting-Netting-Gardeningwill/dp/B00MB8YH2Q/
   
   Duct Tape
   
   Hacksaw or PipeCutter
   
   Scissors
   
   (Maybe a drill and string too)
   
   ____
   
   Lastly, you will need enough blasters for at least 3v3.
   
   Decide what you want to supply for that.
   
   The lowest price I know possible is two packs of tri-fires.
   http://www.target.com/p/dart-zone-174-tri-fire-blasters-3-pack/-/A-50560051
   
   Along with some keyrings, because the priming handle on those blasters is difficult.
   https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-1-Inch-Package/dp/B008YLHMO4
   
   Actual triads are good at twice that price.
   https://www.amazon.com/Nerf-N-Strike-Elite-Triad-Blaster/dp/B009T45X82
   
   I also find it's really handy to have a ziploc bag with two pieces of ductape on one side, then cut belt loops in the bag. (And supply some rough string for people without belts).
   
   Ebay often has a supply of inexpensive darts to use.
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/172498847980?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
   
   __
   
   Although depending on your area you may be able to just go to a Goodwill and find a bunch of cheap blasters.
   
   That or use craigslist, letgo, offerup, varagesale to find cheap blasters for sale in your area.
   
   __
   
   

My dogs and my turtles keep eating my mom's vegetables so I think she would like this [Garden Netting] (http://www.amazon.com/Dalen-Gardeneer-30-Foot-Trellis-TP-30C/dp/B000BZ8FXS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2CCD8H3KKWZ5A&coliid=I2K8ZVBFE6KYVX).

Thanks for the contest! :D

You can get one of those metal/plastic cage trellis,

Plastic Support :
https://www.amazon.com/Support-Plastic-Climbing-Conical-Supporter/dp/B0739LPSQ2/ref=sr_1_23?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1501195143&sr=1-23&keywords=plant+trellis

Bamboo Kit :
https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Color-Bamboo-Trellis-inches/dp/B014K2TMKC/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1501195143&sr=1-4&keywords=plant+trellis

Bamboo Sticks :
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGBB4-Natural-Bamboo-Stake/dp/B0051GUQO8/ref=pd_sim_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051GUQO8&pd_rd_r=PP1M895S9SY5WETWXRFQ&pd_rd_w=tmahT&pd_rd_wg=zF6sb&psc=1&refRID=PP1M895S9SY5WETWXRFQ

Search :
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank?keywords=plant+trellis&rh=n%3A2972638011%2Cn%3A3610851%2Cn%3A3480694011%2Cn%3A3480695011%2Ck%3Aplant+trellis&qid=1501195143&sort=price-asc-rank



and use plant tie warping to attach all of them together or to the main one. Go to any home hardware shops, and long metal ones instead of bamboo...

Bamboo because it's organic and it won't affect anything, if you would use plastic one. Chances are that there is chemicals that can affect the plant if the product is not specifically made for plants.

Ive just started using the vertical sting trellis for my tomatoes. Amazon has cheap reusable clips that bite down on the string, way more orderly and effective than I initially imagined.

https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Support-Vegetables-Upright-Healthier/dp/B01HGJHL8G/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Tomato+clip&qid=1564236201&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I don't have many pictures to share, but to prevent deer from getting into my 60' x 20' garden, I did the following:


I bought 18 seven foot long metal U-posts from Lowes ($6.98 each), and drove them into the ground (with a damn sledgehammer, while standing on a plastic chair set on cardboard so it wouldn't sink into the ground, since the post driver tools I had access to weren't big enough for the size of the U-post). Once in the ground, that left about 5.5 feet of post above ground. I have seven posts on each side (the 60 foot lengths) and then two additional posts on the 20 foot ends to provide a doorway/gate opening.

I had purchased 7.5 foot high wildlife netting (about $20/pack, and I bought 3 packs), which I'd thought would work well with the 7 foot posts (leaving some extra to pin to the ground to prevent animals from digging under it), but while I was aware of the fact that driving the posts into the ground would result in less height, I don't think I knew it would be a foot and a half less. I had read deer can jump over fences less than 8 feet high, so--while I wouldn't go to 8 feet--I wanted more height than the 5.5' I had. So I bought 36 eight foot long treated pine furring strips ($1.97/piece so about $72 total), to fasten to each of the metal posts to provide additional height.

I positioned the posts on the long side at ten foot intervals, and the gate openings are about 8 feet from each corner. I then took two furring strips and would lie them on the ground, and cut a piece of netting to the necessary length to go between each set of posts, and then stapled the netting to the posts. I then took the "panel" of netting, and using zip ties, fastened the furring strips to the metal posts.

I had initially been thinking the netting would run as one continuous length for the full 60 foot length of each side, but I decided to put it together in "panels," if you will, both because I thought it would be less likely to sag (since the lengths would only be about 10 feet long, and because I thought it would be easier to keep them taut at shorter lengths), and also because I realized I could also conceivably remove the 10 foot panels of netting (while still fastened to the furring strips), and roll them up for winter storage (figuring the weight of snow and/or ice on the netting would likely cause problems).

When I started making the panels, I left about 12 inches of netting hanging below the bottom of the furring strips, thinking it would be useful in preventing animals from crawling/digging under the net, but I later realized that the extra netting at the bottom would likely just make my life harder when it came to weeding, and that my neighboring gardeners (I'm at a community garden) would be more likely to step on it, get caught on it, inadvertently pull it out, etc. I was also losing an extra foot in "fence" height by leaving that extra net hanging off of the bottom. So about halfway through my panel construction, I started keeping the net flush with the bottom of the furring strips, and instead putting it up about a foot higher on the strip. I need to go back and re-staple the ones at the lower height, so that they're all the same height.

The doorway/gates are just smaller panels, one size zip-tied to a metal post, and the other with a zip tie left loose so that it can slip over the top of the metal post on the other side to allow for opening/closing the door/gate.

Some pictures....it's hard to even see the netting, but trust me, it's there.

The plot before any fencing.

After the fence was in place, looking toward the back of the garden. "Gate" at left corner.

After the fence was in place, looking toward the front of the garden. "Gate" at center.

Yeah I was thinking there was some trick to this but there isn't! You literally just stick in your stake into the bottom of the pot and try to pack in enough soil around it to stabilize it, then add the plant and more soil (don't pack too hard around the roots, just the stake).

Also if you're planning to buy your own instead of DIY this is the one I picked, I like it because it's made of PVC pipe (so it will never rust because there is no metal), it's pre-treated for pests (I've seen some reviews on sphagnum moss poles saying they were infested) and it's made of coco coir which is a renewable resource (not all moss is). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TN3W1VS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do want to DIY this video from Planterina shows her making one that is almost identical to the one I linked above, plus several other ideas and pros/cons on different materials https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LcmCWY1yEs

I got it on amazon! It came w zip ties and big clips and I haven’t used those yet, I use Velcro plant ties I bought at Lowe’s. The trellises are nice tho bc they’re attachable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF3F37W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3J9QDb45XBVYD

Never seen those before! They could be fine, although most of the moss poles I’ve seen are much thicker because they’re PVC wrapped in moss/coir.

This is the one I have:

God's Own Garden Natural and Organic Coco Coir Moss Pole Totem (36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TN3W1VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ri7HDbN6C8N3B

Thanks, here you go:


https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGN30S-Flexible-Trellis-Netting/dp/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=trellis%2Bnetting&qid=1573581349&sprefix=trelli&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

>As you get closer to harvest. Your plants start feeding off their fan leaves first. How many weeks til you finish? https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-HGBB4-Natural-Bamboo-Stake/dp/B0051GUQO8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QEH3Y9S6BBHS&keywords=tomato+sticks&qid=1556058543&s=gateway&sprefix=tomato+stick%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-3

The fabric was pretty stretchy on the trellis to begin with, so it was just a matter of pulling it tight enough when I setup the bungee cords, then cutting the leftovers. Here is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJJ7WV0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only started it in early flowering but it's been helpful to keep the 3 strains a similar height. That cheese in the front left wants to take off for the sky.

Hydrofarm HGBB4 4' Natural Bamboo Stake, pack of 25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051GUQO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8q6VBbFVENQVH

There are other sizes.

I like the bent bamboo trellises. You just stick both ends in the pot and wrap the vines around it.
https://www.amazon.com/Natural-U-Shape-Handcrafted-Trellis-Support/dp/B07HMSHD2J/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=bamboo+trellis&qid=1569255494&s=gateway&sprefix=bamboo+trell&sr=8-8

Get yourself something like this and your bf is the asshole

If you have small trees you’ve recently planted, make sure you put 1/4” or smaller garden mesh over them. [Here’s one I just ordered] (https://www.amazon.com/Agfabric-Standard-Netting-against-Squirrels/dp/B00X3AXS6W/ref=aw_st_pd_dx_piup_1/142-8814630-1479961?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X3AXS6W&pd_rd_r=3d5ff29c-d2e5-436d-8248-a33760db4c9f&pd_rd_w=w2VVE&pd_rd_wg=74rJZ&pf_rd_p=ba1e24cc-8b1a-400c-95be-f22d87d23cfd&pf_rd_r=0KYT38MAY7E83K1CFNPR&psc=1&refRID=0KYT38MAY7E83K1CFNPR)

This stuff is fantastic and cheap for cleaning up cable mess

$10 for about 40 feet, with 5" perforations. I did a whole recording studio with it.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Adjustable-Gardens-Gardening/dp/B00NC5C38W

Not for a long time. They rarely bother me, and if they do I use this

spider/bee catcher

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Snapy-insect-catcher-yellow-green/dp/B000RL8L6C

[for all the other rickys](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RL8L6C ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_h2txybEBS6GV7)

Build an H-shape target frame from PVC, and use fine netting to catch your brass.

If you don't want to fiddle with stuff, here is a manufactured option: http://www.bubca.com/index.html