(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hand planes

A lot of people like the double edge japanese saws on Amazon (the Ryoba ones). I have one and it works well, but I also have a table saw, circular saws and a band saw, hackzall.. etc.. so it doesn't get used often.

I'd recommend getting a decent #4 hand planer.. but not the cheap stanley one that makes you mess with two knobs to adjust the cut depth (it's hard to keep straight).

Little machinist square helps make sure blades are square to tables (also that corners are square) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W0W34O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also worthwhile to pick up a cheap kanna block plane, they work well for chamfering corners: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CF33BG

Pick up a good dual-grit sharpening stone for your chisels, and preferably a chisel bevel guide. You don't need expensive chisels to have them work well (they will hold an edge better though). Being sharpened well is the most important thing. Finish off your sharpening jobs with light strokes on a leather strop with some polishing compound.

I suggest buying tools for the project you’re trying as opposed to the other way around, but here’s my two cents.

Never go cheap on a planer. The hand planer is really all about the iron. I like a long stout iron to prevent warping and vibration. As a first I recommend a number 3 or 4.5 smoothing plane. Here’s a link for 4.5 smoothing plane on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-4-1-2-Smoothing-Plane/dp/B00GTRLTFI

Next get your hands on a small block plane and then a jack plane. After those get your hands on a big boy like a #6 bench plane.

Once again though if I was just starting I’d buy based on need instead.

The Footprints are definitely worth the money, but because they are butt chisels the handles are a little squatty. Honestly I will buy anything Footprint makes because I got this plane for $25 and it's my favorite tool I've ever owned

mostly a mini hand planer, file and pocket knife. You could get away without the hand planer but it does make it easier. Glue and heavy weights to set it all up. You would be surprised how fast you can put one together. https://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-Saw-LSO-Maker/dp/B000LNTGTM/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1536196045&sr=1-2&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2803928011

I'm in the same boat as you. Was thinking of picking up a Hock and cambering the original iron that came with my #5.

http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html

Also a cheaper option, probably lower quality: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-313-Bench-Plane-Replacement/dp/B00002X1ZE

And Hock from Amazon : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003373MOI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00002X1ZE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=141NKJR5R2C8FGR22SEQ

Please post back if you find any other options. Thanks!

Recommend this little guy for entry level planing
https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Block-Carenters-Double-Senkichi/dp/B0026FBGR8?keywords=Japanese+Wood+Block+Plane+KANNA+40mm+Carenter%27s+Tool+Double+Edge+Senkichi&qid=1538328666&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1

The Japanese style planes are different from occidental planes but this one comes functional and ready to use so there's no frustration or learning curve. You adjust it with a hammer, the instructions don't even need translation. Would work well prepping for the router if you're doing thinner pieces like picture frames and trim.

I think that a bunch of CA in the small crack near where your sand is would be OK but that large punky knot further up is going to cause more problems. Is the other side of the plank any nicer?

A #5 or #5-1/2 would be a handy size to start out with, especially with this task in mind. My 5-1/2 is the WoodRiver model but that might be beyond your budget (and even it is on the cheap side). This guy might be worth a gamble but will likely require a lot more tuning up than a more expensive model. And don't forget to budget in a sharpening setup!

I'd personally spend the extra 8 bucks and get the 12-247 model (alternately, see if you have a "tool library" in your area). You don't need to take the door off of the hinges, necessarily, but you want to make sure you have enough space to slide the plane smoothly across the top of the door. If you can't accomplish that, then you'll have to take the door off and might want to consider the alternate method suggested by uncivlengr.

grizzly jack plane

problem solver(I love that it's called the "engineer's hammer")

Ok you seem like the right person to ask...

What's the difference between this $120 Stanley number 4, and this $32 Stanley number 4, and this $15 Stanley number 4

Obviously the first one has wooden handles, where the other two are plastic. But is that the only difference? They appear to have different mechanisms securing the iron. Does that really matter, or is it all cosmetic?

Sorry this is probably a stupid question for most people here.

the aesthetic of this tool is awesome. However if you like the function but want it in a cheap package you always have these options- https://www.amazon.com/SE-TP70300-Heavy-Trimming-Plane/dp/B000CQE5HQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YRYFX0EBNNKAAQHEV9WH

An intermediate level plane, between a modern Stanley and Veritas, is Wood River

But planes are mostly for making flat surfaces. A canoe paddle is mostly gentle curves. I've never made a canoe paddle, but I would guess that you could do fine with cheap planes on that project, such as the sliverline smoothing plane in combination with their block plane (linked in the above comment), or to move up to something more respectable, the new plastic-handle Stanley.

Pretty much anywhere....

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Iron-for-78-Plane/dp/B0044D35RE/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=stanley+78+plane&qid=1573588803&sr=8-28

Bullnose or chisel plane. Very useful, not very common in most tool collections, in your price range. http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3750-Bull-Nose-Plane/dp/B005W11QTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449087289&sr=8-4&keywords=chisel+plane

What diameter do you want it to end up?

This sounds like a "short" mast for a small wooden sailboat or push pole for a flats boat.

I would start by ripping it to an 8-sided piece with a table saw. If you don't have one you are bound to know someone who does. Then I would use a half round spoke shave to make it more or less round. Then you have some sanding in front of you.

here is a link to the type of tool I am talking about. This one may or may not be the best one to get. I just posted it so you could see what I was talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/Kunz-55-KUNZ-Spokeshave-Round/dp/B00337AI40/ref=sr_1_23?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1427327203&sr=1-23&keywords=spokeshave

You should start with a piece that is maybe 1/4" bigger than the diameter that you want it to end up at the big end.

Finding the wood is a question of finding a local lumber shop. Where do you live?

Sure thing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026FBGR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep

http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JJP-8BT-8-Inch-Jointer-Planer/dp/B001O0D6NS/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1404595773&sr=1-4&keywords=jointer

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/standard-bench-planes/no.-8-jointer-plane/

If fiddling with the hinges doesn't work, try a block plane or rasp.

Here's one at Home Depot for $11

Here's a smaller one for $6 on Amazon, but I think they have them in store at Home Depot too

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Block-Carenters-Double-Senkichi/dp/B0026FBGR8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538666880&sr=8-1&keywords=4977292110402

You're in luck.

or an exacto knife style chisel or plane?

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airscrew-Razor-Plane/dp/B0006O95Z6

Looks good, they don't ship to Germany though. I thought about this plane

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000LFTOE2/

And these sharpening stones, although I worry they might be too small?

https://www.amazon.de/DMT-Diamond-Whetstone-Mini-Diamantstein-extrafein/dp/B00004WFTD/

So i got this cheapo plane ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026FBGR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DRLJDbGJMQ405 ).

I knew i would need to adjust it but eveything i find onlinee has a second metal piece on top(chipbreaker/top iron?) and a metal rod going across to wedge the blade in. Since the blade is wedged by the wood not the metal on this single blade plane would i still go about modifying it the same way in order to get the blade through the bottom. Feels like if i take away some wood it might not fit in the guiding lanes since without the steel bar and second metal piece holding it down it would be too loose?

It's a $10 japanese block plane from amazon. Bit of a pain to adjust.

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Block-Carenters-Double-Senkichi/dp/B0026FBGR8/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H2QRY8V897QBHEDXFSCD