Reddit mentions: The best hardware hasps

Addressing separation anxiety takes time.

For your dog's safety, I suggest addressing a better crate first. One thing you may want to try is a crate like this. I’ve never used this crate, so I don’t know how durable it is, but because of how it’s designed it’s harder to chew on. You may want to reinforce the lock with two hasps one on each the top and bottom. Or four hasps, top and bottom on the left and right sides of the door, I don’t know how strong the crate is. Just make sure to secure any hasps in a way that screws don’t go through the door, one option is Liquid Nails which may be combined with small screws that won’t go through the door, but Liquid Nails should be sufficient if applied correctly. You may also want to put this crate in a corner where it can have strong walls on as many sides as possible.

There are more secure crates, ones made of all metal with solid walls, however those tend to be very expensive.

The most important things (besides a physically safe environment) are

1. The dog always knows that you will come back
   
2. The crate is a fun, and low-stress place for your dog
   
3. Exercise
   
   The dog always knows that you will come back
   
   Leave for less than a minute, and then come back, but don’t make a big deal of it. Just act like you are leaving for a while (jacket, keys, etc) and then go outside, wait, and come back in. Do this a few times a day. You don't need to put the dog in the crate for this.
   
   Once you can leave for a minute, make it two, then five. Once you are at five minutes, put the dog in the crate, then get your stuff, then leave.
   
   When you come back, let the dog out of the crate but don't make a big deal. Let him out, go get some water, sit down, act normal.
   
   The key is that the dog knows you are coming back, and that this is normal activity.
   
   The crate is a fun, and low-stress place for your dog
   
   Fill Kongs with your dog's highest-value treats and put them in the crate whenever you leave. You want to build a positive association with the crate, and the easiest way to do this is with food.
   
   Try covering the crate with blankets, you can get moving blankets cheap on Amazon.
   
   Or for a little more you can get something a little nicer if you don’t want to look at an ugly moving blanket.
   
   I suggest getting the 12 pack, dogs sometimes destroy the crate covers so it's handy to have spares.
   
   The idea is just to make the crate dark and to help it be a calm, distraction-free environment. Whenever you put the dog in the crate, cover it completely with the blanket. It won't block sound, but keeping it dark helps.
   
   I don't know if this product works, I'm not affiliated with the company and I've never used it before but try a Snuggle Puppy.
   
   AKC calls it:
   >This is the ideal toy for anxious puppies.
   
   Just note that AKC's description is on a page trying to sell you the product, so be cautious.
   
   I also suggest a conversation with your vet about anxiety meds, something that is acts quickly and doesn’t stay in the dog’s system too long. Meds are not a solution, but they can help. If the dog is so anxious he can’t focus on the Kong, it doesn’t matter how good the Kong is. The right medical solution helps the dog focus on the training. I’ve used anxiety medicine with dogs with good results.
   
   Exercise
   
   Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise, a tired dog is a calm dog. It’s hard to be anxious when passed out from playing and walks.
   
   Try anything
   
   You said you are willing to try anything, so here are some solutions that are less than proven.
   
   

• Calming collars (or calming disks), manufactures claim the product releases calming scents
  
• DogTV, I’m not kidding, it claims it’s programming is calming for dogs. For a lot less money, put a YouTube nature playlist

Short(ish) TL;DR: Building a box on top of a utility trailer that will bolt-together, plywood sides, seat with locking storage and will be pulled behind a electric front hub recumbent trike. Not for use on the road, low speeds (~5-10mph) on pretty flat terrain with at most some ruts and dust piles. TTITD Already got the hitch made up and working well enough.

Longer form:

SketchUp file for those that want to follow along that way, otherwise image link.

This Gorilla Carts GOR1001-COM utility cart, going to weld up the frame but in sections that will bolt together. Want to be able to flat(ish) pack this in my storage unit when not using it. Main tube will be 3/4" square steel, the tube that's the extra supports will be recessed 1/2" tub, flush to the inner surface of the 3/4" tube providing ~1/4" for plywood to fit in against and help keep it in place.

All the tabs shown are 1/8", and almost all 1"x1". Debating drilling 1/4" holes and using #12 screw bolts, or drilling 5/8" holes and 1/4" hex bolts.

The seat bottom and back and top may be 3/4" plywood, not sure yet. All the rest will be 1/2" on the sides/back except the bottom (sitting on the mesh of the cart) which will be 1/4". Mostly to prevent little things from dropping out the bottom or stuff coming up from underneath.

The small 4" posts sticking inwards are for square u-bolts from the bottom which correspond to the cart cross beams and are 1/2" tube ~1/4" from the bottom to allow for the plywood.

The footrest in front is detachable and narrower than the full width, hopefully to cut down on people using it to step up as much. I'm slightly worried that if they step on the edge it may overbalance the cart. Having it closer to the center may help with that. If not, I'm going to just remove it and people will have to watch their feet with the tow bar :P

The seats bottom and back will be 2" high density foam covered with some basic cloth, stapled to the bottom of the plywood. The seat bottom may be hinged at front or rear to provide access to the front area where I'm intending to have a battery box and such. Using these type latches and some combo locks. Probably have a bit of 1x2" or similar wood behind the hinge area and latch areas to provide better grip for those.

The back will have a strip at the top/bottom, probably reinforced behind by some 1x2" wood or similar to provide better grip for hinges and latches. Might use the same latches as for the seat, but considering using these. It will swing backwards, and I'll may have a bit of steel cable to keep it from going all the way down, I'll see how it is in practice first.

I'll also get some anchors or similar and put them at the bolt points, and possibly at some of the other extra tabs I have in to help attach and hold the plywood in place. Might use screws, might just bolt through the plywood, not sure yet.

So, hopefully I'll get some constructive feedback (probably along with some "you're insane" or "no way that'll work" or what not). And it may not work as I hope. Oh well! I'll still learn a lot about how to do some things, and how not to do some things.

My alternate is just build a rectangular box, hinges in the middle with cushion and fabric all on top split in the middle. Still bolt together as a goal. A lot quicker and simpler and cheaper. But that's boring.

• Ikea Linnmon desks with Olov legs
  
  His PC
  
• CASE: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
  
• Motherboard: EVGA X58 SLI3
  
• CPU: Intel i7 920 (stock clock)
  
• CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 (very quite)
  
• RAM: Corsair Dominator 6GB Tri Channel
  
• HDD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 250GB, 2 TB WD Green, 1TB WD Black
  
• PSU: Kingwin 800w modular
  
• GPU: Radeon HD 7870 2GB
  
• Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K65
  
• Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Mouse
  
• Headset: Sennheiser PC 360
  
• Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT990
  
• Chair: AK Octane
  
• Pad: Xtrac pad XXL
  
• Mount: Ergotron LX
  
• Monitor: Asus 27 inch
  
• Amp: Astro Mixamp
  
• Lights - Ikea Dioder
  
• Professional looking headphone holder: Toilet paper holder
  
  Her PC
  
• CASE: Bitfenix Prodigy
  
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-H87N-WIFI
  
• CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K (stock clock)
  
• CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i (very quite)
  
• RAM: Gskill Sniper 8GB
  
• HDD: Crucial 240GB SSD, 1 TB WD Green
  
• PSU: Corsair CX500 semi modular
  
• GPU: Nvidia GTX 660 TI 2GB
  
• Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K65
  
• Mouse: Alienware Mouse
  
• Headset: Razer Carcharias
  
• Speakers: Bose Companion 2
  
• Chair: Regular folding chair (not pictured for obvious reasons!)
  
• Pad: Steelseries
  
• Mount: Ergotron LX
  
• Monitor: Samsung 22inch
  
  I bought the straps at walmart. It was a pack of 4 for $10. The walmart in my town is really small and I was limited to green. I couldn't find any looping mounts so I ended up buying 4 padlock door latch setups and just tossing the latch / keeping the base.
  
  
• Straps
  
• padlock latch
  
  

I live in a pretty urban neighborhood and was worried about break ins in my van as well. Luckily mine had these puck locks on the passenger and sliding door and back door:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Magnum-Vehicle-Hasp/dp/B004Q0IPHA

I leave them locked when I'm at work or not using my van. As far as windows, I would make sure all your valuables and anything else that would interest anyone packed away.

Awesome. Congratulations on your new friends. My coops have four walls with a dirt floor and an vented roof. We dig corrugated metal into the ground for the bottom third of the walls (or the whole coop can be wood framed and the metal can be the walls and roof. Shipping pallets suspended by fencing wire for the perches. 3 square foot per bird, 1 nest per 3-4 birds. Straw/hay around the coop and in nesting boxes. We open the door in the morning and they run outside all day and go to bed by themselves at night. We do a head count, make sure no predators are in the coop, and lock the door with a pegboard display hook through a swivel hasp. A cinder block in front of the door works too, especially since that will hold it open during the day.

We use the deep litter method.

Where there are no trees we drive t posts in random places to deter hawks swooping down.

Chickens are fine with cold so long as you block the wind. They may need vasoline on their combs to prevent wind burn and frostbite.

They need oyster shell put out where they can get it if they want it. A good feed. Free ranging is fun for them. Treats are good scraps from the kitchen (watermelon, pumpkins, tomatoes, etc are my bird's favs).

Sorry to hear about the theft. You probably don't want to deal with the hassle of selling the van, so here's what you should do, if you still plan to gig with the van:

• Get a locking metal bulkhead
  
• secure the side and rear doors with a Hidden shackle hasp and padlock
  
  You're looking at about $350 in parts, but you can probably install these yourself. Better to drop a few hundred now to save several grand later.

You could probably do something similar to what fire gates (or whatever they're called) do.

I'll draw something really quick, but basically, it's a bar that is locked on either side. When you unlock either side, you can slide the bar and thus unlock the gate from either side.

Edit: Alternatively, if your gate is short enough, you could put a latch on top of the gate that you can reach on either side.

Edit 2: Sketch of a top of gate latch. Probably the best way to do this if you can reach the top of the gate I've found out that this is called a "single hinge hasp." An example

A hasp like this, with mushroom head bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-770-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000LEHEO0/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LEHEO0&pd_rd_r=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W&pd_rd_w=2WW1V&pd_rd_wg=ay2AK&psc=1&refRID=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W

And a lock like this, with a hidden shackle: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-6270KA-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000Z36T6Q&pd_rd_r=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5&pd_rd_w=1AxA3&pd_rd_wg=gvAMO&psc=1&refRID=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5

Will give you the best security, as it's not possible to just cut off the lock. And if you use bolts with a square body, they will mate to the square holes in the hasp so someone couldn't just cut a slot into the bolt heads and twist them out.

For security: Get a steel divider between the front seats and the back cargo area. Hopefully you got one that doesn't have windows past the front three, if you did get them reinforced or get metal welded in. https://www.adriansteel.com/blog/bulkheads-partitions/benefits-of-a-cargo-van-partition/ Although I wouldn't get one with a door for better security.

Then bolt some puck lock haps across the side and back door. The hasp bolts should go through to the inside. Use cap headed bolts on the outside. https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Puck-Lock-Hasp/dp/B01GK77E6O

If the shed will be in the sun, a ridge vent with the two included wall vents would help keep it cooler. If they don't provide you with a quality hasp, I have been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-140-120-Weather-Stainless/dp/B004C47L8E

The treated wood floor might not be worth the extra cost if you don't expect it to get wet or if you won't be putting heavy things in your shed. My shed actually has water running under it when it rains and I store motorcycles in it in the winter so I wanted the extra strength of treated plywood. You could also just lay down an extra layer of plywood wherever you store heavy stuff.

So, you could get something like this and switch the latch up. Size matters, but something like this would work. Attach it, buy a lock, and you're good to go.

I've got an idea.

Use a 2x4 like many people have suggested to hold the inner door in place. Then put something like this on the door that can't be held in place, and have it secure / lock to the 2x4.

Furthermore, you could put the part with the padlock protrusion on the 2x4 - so the outer door could still be moved when the 2x4 is missing. There you go, one device - two secured doors.

You could try a security hasp, attached to the refrigerator with either silicone adhesive or hot glue (as suggested by /u/Face999). Both adhesives are reasonably strong, and should come off cleanly when you're ready to remove the hasp.

They're from amazon, they're made from brass so I think they're pretty solid. It didn't feel at all flimsy.

Here's a link to the item: https://www.amazon.com/Large-Antique-Style-Trunk-Nesha/dp/B06XD4HCK1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502853912&sr=8-1&keywords=nesha+trunk+hasp

Double hinged or Security hasp? like dis? > https://www.amazon.com/Lion-Locks-808D-Security-Hasp/dp/B016LLOCYG/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q1ADG76X6GA03TDA0FM0

Thank you. I used superglue on the hardware to keep it in place until I could get the screws in. I had to trim each screw about 1/16 so it didn't poke into the inside of the box.

Latch with hinges that will not work on a box like this. They only open about 90 degrees

Hinge

The adjustable bit has a magnet under it to keep it from banging around. If I made it again I would make a hole for the cutting end and not the end held by the drill. It would be more secure that way.

You could also just use a cheap lock and a latch guard

Or a padlock hasp with either bolts or security screws.

Then there's only minimal drilling encase the landlord won't approve of drilling a huge hole in the door for a deadbolt.

In support of this comment, let me say this:


You adopted this animal. You agreed to take care of it and protect it and give it a good home. YOU took on that responsibility. These fuckers are now threatening this animal that. Even if you are not the person who takes charge normally, you have to pretend to be for this creature that is in your protection.

1. If your door locks...LOCK IT
   
   
2. If your door doesn't lock, buy a lock and bolt it on:
   https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N102-855-Swivel-Staple/dp/B000BQO4YQ

A trunk could be a very classy addition!

But also, you could introduce locks to your dresser. A small latch, like this one, would be subtle. Though, if you go that way, you will want to find a similar design but with all the screws accessible only from the interior of the drawer. (That model exposes two of the screws, so it does nothing against a person with a screwdriver.)

If you know anyone handy with home improvement who can help you, you may consider going with a desk lock on each of your drawers. Also subtle. Locks would be a tiny investment compared to the goods you're losing to your sister.

Dear OP, AE is mostly recording oriented. /r/livesound has volumous posts discussing your live-sound gig kit.

Here is what is in my backpack, and a 24v Dewalt drill. Otherwise, a RME UFX and a W530.

If I may, and please don't have the Reddit gods of this forum kick me out, but putting a hockey-puck onto that hasp is like putting three deadbolts on a front door with glass inserts. It just doesn't make sense. That hasp won't be able to hold up too much.

What about a better overall solution...

https://www.amazon.com/PACLOCKs-Compliant-Hockey-Puck-Aircraft-Aluminum/dp/B07WJWMWQC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=paclock+kt2173a&qid=1567119053&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You can actually bolt the puck to the hasp, then bolt the hasp to the door. No more losing the puck because it got left on the ground or whatever.

Just a thought...

I am thinking that if it is that, it would be the hasp of one.

Similar to one like this: Master Lock Lockout Tagout Hasp, Vinyl Coated Steel Hasp, 1-1/2 in Jaw Clearance, 421 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5S1SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P4oUDb5Q84JDS

Place a simple lock on your bedroom door for now.

Definitely talk to your parents. You've already tried to reason with your roommate and she won't do anything.

Definitely make an effort to get a new roommate. One that will understand personal space and boundaries.

Looks to be a clasp with a missing arm. I would remove it and replace it with something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Alise-MS9-3A-Padlock-Stainless-Finish/dp/B01MT02W7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510705849&sr=8-1&keywords=Door+padlock+hardware

And buy a padlock to go with it.

I think I recognize you from the community website thing!

Anyway, we have one of these: http://amzn.com/B004Q0IPHA installed on our shed - a week after we put up our shed, someone clipped the Master Lock we had on it, but we hadn't put anything in yet. Since then, it's accumulated a couple marks which I think were someone trying to figure it out, but nothing since.

It's gonna be a pita to replace the handle.

Use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-703D-Security-Hasp/dp/B00004SQLV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494835111&sr=8-3&keywords=security+hasp