I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

Welcome to the sub!

First of all--WOW. You've got most of your house down to 1 or 2 on that scale! That's a fantastic accomplishment. I hope you've celebrated that, because that take a lot of hard mental work to be able to get to where you're at. Congratulations!

> How often does the average person scrub the kitchen and bathroom? I get stuck between wasting my time cleaning already-clean surfaces on a daily basis, or forgetting about it and then not noticing the mess until it's a huge overwhelming task. I'd like to set a regular schedule, but I'm not sure how often it should be done.

When talking about an kitchen or bathroom that's a 1 on the scale? About five minutes (if that much) once a day. It's not so much "scrub" as "wipe down" so that things don't build up.

I personally find the Daily/Weekly/Monthly/Seasonal Task List at UfYH to be very helpful. I suggest you download and print it.

> While I've let go of the need to "save" items by purchasing them, I still collect small things (pens, nail polish, etc) more than I should. How does an average person know when a collection they love and use is big enough?

The typical answer to this is "when it interferes with your quality of life". For people recovering from hoarding, I would suggest the following checklist:

• Are you able to sort, store, and display your collection?
  
• Are you proud to bring people into your home and show them your collection?
  
• Does showcasing your collection interfere with your ability to use one or more spaces in your house (e.g. you can't prep food in the kitchen because all of the counterspace is taken up displaying your nail polish)?
  
• Are you spending so much money on your collection that it's interfering with your ability to meet your financial obligations (e.g. you missed paying rent last month because all of the money went to nail polish)?
  
  If the honest answer to all of these questions is "No", you should be good.
  
  > How the heck do you mop a floor? My issue here may be partly physical disability, but my attempts to mop don't really get anything clean. I can't physically get down on my hands and knees to scrub, so I usually end up pushing a bleach-covered towel around with my feet, because the actual mop does nothing but slop around water and shed strings. This can't be right. Help?
  
  Here's what I do, broken down step-by-step:
  
  

1. First, dust-mop, Swiffer-dust, or vacuum the floor, to get rid of the larger debris and dirt (dropped food items, dust bunnies, etc.). It doesn't have to be sparkling, but doing this gets rid of the nastier soil from the floor, so you can mop up the rest effectively.
   
2. Prep a bucket with warm water and the appropriate solution for your floor type. My kitchen floor is linoleum, so I use about 1/4 cup Mop-And-Glo per gallon (the rest of my house has old wood floors, which requires a different cleaning approach). Always check your chemicals for proper dilution ratios! Otherwise you're may wind up covering your floor in chemicals, which in turn creates its own soil.
   
3. Dunk your mop into the solution in the bucket, then wring the mop out until it is just damp. The #1 problem that occurs when mopping is over-wetting of the surface! Using a damp mop instead of a sopping wet mop allows the dirt to cling to the mop as you go instead of being spread around by the water on the floor.
   
4. A note on mop-wringing: I'm old-school, so I wear rubber gloves and wring the mop head out by hand. However! One can purchase self-wringing mops at any place you would buy a standard mop.
   
5. Start in the corner farthest away from the door. Mop in a figure-8 pattern to use your mop most effectively.
   
6. As you mop, move towards the entrance of the room so you are always standing on a dry piece of floor. This will help to avoid streaking and tracking of your solution to other parts of the house.
   
7. Change the solution often to ensure the water you're using to clean is not overly saturated with dirt. Dirty solutions will only move dirt from one area to another, it won't remove it from the floor.
   
8. Depending on how dirty your floor is, you may have to change your mop water out once or twice to get a truly clean floor. But if your kitchen is at 1 on the scale, just mop until your water starts to get dark with soil and your floor looks clean.
   
9. Dump mop bucket out and rinse repeatedly until mop bucket is completely clean. You do not want any solution or residue left over to contaminate your water the next time you use the bucket.
   
10. Rinse out mops thoroughly and hang up to dry above a slop sink or floor drain.
    
    You mentioned bleach. Please note that while bleach is a decent disinfectant, it does NOT include any actual cleaning agents (surfactants ) to break down soil, dirt, dust, etc. There are cleaning products that contain bleach which do a very good job of cleaning surfaces, but the bleach itself is not the actual cleaning agent. So if you're just making a solution of bleach and water, that's one reason why you're not cleaning your floor effectively.
    
    If for whatever reason you wish to avoid commercial chemical cleaners, I urge you to switch to the tried-and-true solution of vinegar and water:
    
    

• 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar and 1 gallon of warm water
  
• 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 gallon of warm water, and 2 tablespoons of mild dish soap
  
• or 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 gallon of warm water, and several drops of lemon juice
  
  > How often do you replace a shower curtain? How do you know when it needs replacing?
  
  Well, that depends on the material the curtain is made of, and how you care for your curtain:
  
  
• Cloth curtains are durable, but they absorb water rather than repel it. Leaving your curtain closed between uses will let it dry and thus cut down the growth of mold, bacteria, and fungus. Try washing your curtain monthly in hot water with bleach to kill mold and to remove stains. With care, your curtain should last a year or more. Replace it when it looks worn, or when washing no longer removes stains.
  
• Plastic, vinyl, and other synthetics make excellent water repelling curtains. However, water does beads up on the inner surface, so hang these curtains closed between showers to get them to dry, too, otherwise, you risk mold, etc.. Rub your curtain down with a mild detergent (dish detergent is ideal) either weekly or monthly to remove mildew buildup. With care, you curtain may last a year or more. Replace your curtain when it looks dingy.
  
  > I've noticed that vacuums almost always start losing power after a few months of use. Is this a thing that happens to other people? How do you deal with it, if you can't afford a new vacuum or a repair, especially if your ability to take things apart is dubious?
  
  Okay, so this is new to me. I'm still using a vacuum cleaner from ten years ago, with no issues. Are you sure you don't need to just replace the bag?
  
  
  
  
  

This would be absolutely amazing for my house. This is my first time living in a house with mostly hardwood floor, and I'm realizing how much of a pain it is to clean them! Not only do vacuums not work very well (although mine just died on me) on hardwood floors, but I also feel like the mop that I have doesn't clean them very well. I know that the roommates living in this house before me did not clean at all (you don't want to know some of the things my roommate and I have found while cleaning it.) I would be much more at ease if I could really give the floors a good mopping! It would make my OCD clean self very happy <3

Thank you for hosting :) conviviality

Dude...I TOTALLY just added those to my wishlist, those are awesome! I'm a very "get it all in one trip" type of person so this will crazy help! I have linked this item several times. Anything to help me get organized is a huge help because then I use it and it doesn't get messy anymore which helps keep the house clean lol. Show this gift some love. Thanks for the contest!

Your wish list link is broken. Use this, http://amzn.com/w/1KJWLIWB3W464.

Well, congratulations on your new apartment! I would suggest being conscious of turning off lights. Electric bills can get pretty outrageous. Also, don't use your AC when it is under 90 degrees out, keep it at 78 when you're at home and 86 when you leave on hot days. Wash the dishes you after you use them! The can pile up quickly. At the very least rinse them off and stack them on the side of the sink to wash later. Don't let more than 10 accumulate. Keeping your house clean is simple. Put in little effort upfront rather than max effort later. Pick up that loose paper before 10 others follow suit. Put your clothes in the hamper, not on the bathroom floor. It's not hard or complicated. I promise.

You need the following
Trash can
Trash bags
Broom (I have this one and it holds up well.)
Mop #1
Mop #2
Bucket (can double as car was bucket.)

You'll also need towels, bathroom rugs, shower curtain, plates, etc that you will want to pick to match the colors of your home.

I hope you have fun! Invite friends to help you move and buy them pizza! Thanks for have this contest! cheeto fingers

My dog had to be inside all day a couple of weeks ago because of the heat so he peed in the kitchen. I was squatting to clean it when my husband walked in and freaked out because I was sitting there trying to balance myself and breathing heavy, he thought I had fallen or was having some sort of episode. What used to take me 30 seconds to clean now take me 5 minutes, he got on to me and told me to wait until he got home but I don't want to just leave dog pee in the floor!

At church yesterday I realized I could no longer kneel when praying, I have to rest my butt on the seat because my belly is in the way. Unfortunately I'm really good at hiding my bump so I'm sure the older couple behind me thought I was just lazy.

I have something like this I bought a few months ago to help clean the tub/shower, maybe you could invest in one to help clean the tub. I've found I actually really like it so I'll probably keep using it even after I have the baby since bending over a tub is uncomfortable even on a good day.

I just use a regular broom and this mop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB75YE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CMNDyb871P2C8

The spray part went out on me (I think it's clogged but I can't figure out where), so I just use a spray bottle with it. Vinegar water mixture and a little baking soda if needed help get my tile floor clean. If you really need to clean the grout, I suggest scrubbing it with a cleaning brush or an old toothbrush. I've been told that denture paste is great for grout.

I apologize for the formatting, I'm on mobile.

Mop handle: fiberglass, tough as shit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MDM950/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t1_B005KD5UYS

Rubbermaid mop heads: again, wash ( regular or gentle, not heavy) and hang dry.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KDEMRE/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t2_B005KD3XDS


Wring bucket: sturdy, can take alot of use and you can replace the wringer and bucket separately, altho it's going to be at couple years before the wringer needs replaced.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006ICOK/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t1_B00GJ0Q47S

It seems expensive but it's one of those buy for life things.


Dust mop handle: snaps on to the wire frame. You can even replace the pole for like a 8$

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Snap-Handle-Natural/dp/B005KD92l

Dust mop frame : easy to maneuver, low profile, basically lasts forever even if you run over it with a floor scrubber or gator.:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Snap-Wire-Dust-Frame/dp/B005KDDKTK?th=1&psc=1



Dust mops ; you have two options, cloth and microfiber. Both have their strengths and weakness. Both can be washed and hung. Cloth ones last longer and are better for larger spaces and pick up bigger bits of things better.

Microfiber is good if you don't accumulate alot of dirt and dust, works well with pet hair.

Synthetic cloth: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KD2PQY/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t2_B005KD92SI?th=1&psc=1

Microfiber dust mops need a different frame and handle. They are lighter and thinner but feel light compared to the synthetic cloth and wire frames. The frame relies on a type of velcro grip. Eventually that wears out and you have to replace the heads and handles/frames more often.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KCJY8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1510206915&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microfiber+dust+mop+head+rubbermaid

Microfiber frame/handle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KCOB4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510207125&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microfiber%2Bdust%2Bmop%2Bhandle%2Bframe%2Brubbermaid&dpPl=1&dpID=31kwOkYrU6L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1


For home use, 18/24 inch width should be sufficient.

I swear I'm not a shill. I've just had alot of exp with commercial cleaning products and equipment.

If you ever want some cleaning chemical recommendations hit me up.

Don't buy a Swiffer, they're shit. Get this instead, and use it to mop with this no-rinse solution.

You'll just have to trust me, I've tried everything because we have crawling babies, and the above combo is by far the best. Also, don't use Bona products unless you're going to buff it every couple of days. If you don't, you'll just end up with a pasty, cloudy mess, especially on dark floors. Then you'll have to strip it down; no bueno.

If you can afford it, a robotic vacuum also helps a great deal. I prefer the Neato over the Roomba, because it's an actual vacuum. As such, it is significantly louder, but does a much better job, particularly with pet hair.

For spot cleaning before a friend pops in, you can't beat a cordless vac. They're actually a blast to use and you can sprint around the house with them when needed. If guests are dropping in last minute, my wife will run with that cordless and I'll chase her with the mop. Pristine house in under 5 minutes! Lol

The saying is, never trust a maid with clean knees. All through and proper cleaning requires bending over. It is the nature of cleaning.

First step is a very thorough vacuuming with a proper vacuum with plenty of suction. This means NOT an upright vacuum. I use the Meile vacuum. I have a C3. You can get one at a proper vacuum store or on Amazon. Miele Complete C3 Marin Canister Vacuum Cleaner - Corded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R43I4EU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5NcRDb1MZ10ZY

Baseboards should also be vacuum and then wiped down with cleaner and cleaning towel. I use an all purpose cleaner from the Clean Team. You can get cleaning towels from them as well. https://www.thecleanteam.com/Speed-Cleaning™-Red-Juice-Concentrate-32-oz-bottle-Makes-20-16-oz-bottles_p_54.html

On the floor, after the vacuuming, I use the sh-mop system. The pads are replaced with several clean pads while cleaning so no dirty pad is going on the floor. Wood floors can scratch so fresh clean pads are needed. SH-MOP Deluxe KIT Includes 4 SH-Wipes, 1 SH-Micro and Aluminum Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GLX25UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SKcRDb1SKBKGB

On the floor cleaner, I like Bona. Bona® Hardwood Floor Cleaner Refill, 128 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xMcRDbB152A3J

I've seen these kind of buckets recommended - I can't find them on the US Amazon site for a fair price, eBay might be worth a try.

Looks like here in the UK large ones (30 - 40 litres) are cheapest from big DIY stores. To save water, these shallow ones look good.

I used the random list generator and got cxbu's list. An item I liked and thought was cool was this boom holder that can hold 5 brooms!. I think a person must be very clean if they need a device to hold 5 brooms/ other cleaning things like mops maybe? Or maybe they just have that many brooms in order to imply the illusion of cleanliness?

Got this last week with my xmas gift cards. Works just like the ones in my fast food days. Cleans kitchen and basement great!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006ICOK
http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG9C7400RED-Wavebrake-18-Quart/dp/B000RMSGXO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KD3XDS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KDEMRE

Also, it's really best to just buy your own mopp. The Mopps you're issued are typically worn out after a year of drills and will just make life difficult.

I reccommend the Contec EasySat Bucketless Floor Mop, 52 oz tank it's a little pricey at $400+ but well worth it. If you KAIP for the extra $300 it should be an easy purchase.

I have used the one that snaps on top of a 5 gallon bucket. https://www.amazon.com/DeBudder-Bucket-Lid-Original-Brand/dp/B0751Q53KZ/ref=asc_df_B0751Q53KZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196276925246&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15839686140557543819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029183&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-393055790791&psc=1

It works fairly well. They also make one that you can attach to a flat work surface. Good luck

https://www.amazon.com/DeBudder-Edge-Original-420-Brand/dp/B07HLC3VZS/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2/140-9925709-6030921?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HLC3VZS&pd_rd_r=5ed72c93-7870-454f-96ab-a30db7a6e974&pd_rd_w=TjZBE&pd_rd_wg=biVcb&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=RPJM8YRP6RMKRWEDBXJS&psc=1&refRID=RPJM8YRP6RMKRWEDBXJS

Smart mop isn't a gadget, it's a poorly made knock off of the Libman Wonder Mop, (which i fucking love, btwz).

oh wow thanks, i'm now considering the pulse version which has a built in dispenser

http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-1835528-Mopping-56-inch/dp/B005KCLMAU/ref=pd_sim_indust_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=1D71YJDSKJR7C07FMZ6Z#productDescription

This is the BEST THING EVER for cleaning a bathroom super quick. Works with THESE REFILLS

You should totally get them to stock my house or yours!

Gorgeous foreground... the background makes me sad :-\ you could definitely do with a cable-tidy.

e.g. Extension tidy and cable sleeve

Its called a lot of different things! I call it a cable tube. Here's an amazon link - Its cut in the middle so you can slip cords in and out easy. Its also easy to cut so you can tailor it to your needs!

There are several models of string- and sponge- mops with removable, washable heads. Here's a popular one on Amazon for $15.

I just moved places, and they tried that with me. I laughed, and pulled out my own. I am quickly becoming the alpha in the herd.

You're thinking of a lid wrench, which looks similar, but this is a ring pull can opener for people with arthritis or limited hand mobility/strength.

this will make spring cleaning a little easier

Yep

http://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Lid-Wrench-Plastic-Buckets/dp/B006RXPV4Y

https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Lid-Wrench-Plastic-Buckets/dp/B006RXPV4Y

I haaaated it when someone would misplace that damn thing. I could still open a bucket pretty easy due to sheer willpower but jeez that tool made it so much easier.

ahh ok, Thats helps a little. consider one of these. It will make getting bucket lids open significantly easier. I have a lot of trouble opening buckets once I cold crash so I feel your pain there.

You might consider a different fermentor type. The Fermonster lid has a big bung hole(hahahaha) in the middle where most people would put a #10 stopper with an airlock attached. you could easily modify the lid so that your thermowell and blow off tube go through the screw on lid. Then the original bung hole you could use for samples and adding things in.

What is the United Solutions 12-Quart Plastic Utility Pail with Spout, the only bucket he did not already own.

Get your KM to order one of these

These are used to remove lids from plastic buckets.

I kind of really need this Swiffer because my white fuzzy cat has hair all over the place and sweeping it just is not cutting it.

Thanks for the contest! :3