Reddit mentions of 270 PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connector Kit Electrical Insulated Crimp Marine Automotive Terminals Set

Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA

I know my local auto parts stores sell them for just a few bucks.

Check your cars manual to see the list of fuses. Find something like ACC or Accessory Port fuse, all the fuses should be listed by number. You want to make sure you arent using something like the airbags because if for whatever reason your camera connection does something weird, or you install something incorrectly you dont want to be without any safety features. there is typically a fuse for each cig port your car has tho.

Check your fuse box for that fuse number. now with the power tester connected to a ground (the clamp end you can just clamp to a metal part of your car, often times there is a ground nut/bolt near the fuse box, but I have even just connected it to a metal hinge on my door since its connected to the metal body) and using the tip, touch one of the metal points on the top of the fuse. there are two exposed metal parts on the top of the fuse, on each side of the number (for example 3 amps). when your car is off, the volt meter should not turn on/light up. when you turn your car on, try again and it should light up. with the A119 since it has no automatic parking mode, you want it to turn off when your car shuts off which is why you want to tap into a fuse thats off when your car is off otherwise it will constantly record even when your car is just parked in your garage or wherever you don't want it recording.

the red wire of the hardwire kit will connect to that, so you just put that end into the add-a-fuse and crimp it. you just clamp it down hard enough that it will hold onto the wire, even with slight tugging on it.

take the fuse out of your fuse box and put it on the "bottom" slot, and a 2.5-5amp fuse on the top part. this thread shows pictures if i am not explaining that well: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/which-fuse-to-use-for-powering-my-dashcam.439/

so then you just put the add a fuse into the same slot.

the ground you need to connect to something grounded to your cars frame/body. ideally you would want to use an O ring terminal (like these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66, you can of course find smaller cheaper kits, that was just the first one I found). but if you really wanted to you could just wrap the bare black wire around a ground screw and have the screw tighted down on it. I have done it before and it will work, its just sorta half-assed to do it that way.

I did make a video of the process but to be honest its not the greatest video. every car ive isntalled in has had a fuse box so low and out of the way its hard to film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYT6HmpeP8U

but some people have said the video was still helpful.

just make sure you know what fuse you are connecting to, make sure you put the fuses in the correct slot, make sure the black wire is grounded and you should be good to go.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!