Reddit mentions: The best interconnect terminals

> I would be indebted to you if you reminded us what you did and how you did it. I love creating DIY gizmos, and recall your setup being a very manageable blueprint.

I suppose we can arrange that.

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TL;DR - 101 Ah Battery, DIY Distrubution Box w/ Banana Plugs, Mount/CCD/Arduino power cord converted to banana plug, 12V Laptop Power supply and 110V DSLR power supply hacked up, a few bits and pieces, couple of solar panels thrown in for fun.

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The long version

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• Start with the battery. Mine is an EverStart 101Ah from WalMart.
  
  
  
  What's important is that this be a DeepCycle or Marine battery, designed to deliver low current for extended periods of time (vs LOTS of current QUICKLY, like when starting a car) and be drained to low amounts of remaining capacity and recharged many times.
  
  You completely do not care about "CCA" - Cold Cranking Amps. If your rig ever draws more than 10-ish Amps or so at one time, you have much bigger problems than whether your battery can deliver it. :)
  
  What you're after is capacity, in AmpHours. I'll talk below about how to calculate your needs, if you're really wanting to be picky...but suffice to say, 50-100 Ah should be plenty for any normal AP use, especially if you'll be charging after every evening.
  
  
• Now we need a way to distribute all that power. I built this one myself. Start with a suitable project box, grab a fuse holder (I use a 10A fuse btw), maybe a terminal block for easy connections to the input power, and some banana jacks and wire it all up with some 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire, and you're set.
  
  Mine has banana plugs on the input side, so I can plug it into my 12V power supply when I'm at home. When i'm in the field, I have some battery clips that you can plug banana plugs into like these, but you can also rig up your own if you wish with some simple 3/16" brass tubing and some solder. :)
  
  
• Then we've got a bunch of cables. Nothing really surprising there...it's just the various power cables for the mount, the CCD, and so on, with all their various connectors (usually cigarette lighter plugs) removed, and replaced with banana plugs.
  
  
• Next is laptop power. This is the result of hacking apart a 12V laptop power supply (That company makes more, for several different breeds of laptop) and stuffing the guts into a small project box. Isolated the input power inside the guts, and connected it to some banana plugs.
  
  BE VERY CAREFUL HERE The company that makes these uses black for negative, and red for positive. Great way to get confused and short your power supply, etc.
  
  
• Finally, the DSLR Power for when i'm shooting planetary/lunar. This one takes the most "hacking". You start with an AC power adapter for your DSLR. All you really need is the camera end...the plug, and the little adapter bit shaped like a battery. In fact, sometimes you can buy them seperately, though they're often as much or more than the whole power unit.
  
  Next, read the power supply to see what its output is (or use a multimeter to find out). It is a pretty safe bet it'll be 7.4V, since that's the output of a 2-cell lithium pack, which is what most of them are these days, but check and be sure.
  
  The, grab yourself a little step down module (You can find those in packs of 10 or more for less per piece if you think you need extras for other projects), These guys are slick....just hook up your power supply and a voltmeter, twist the little gold screw to adjust output power, and when it gets to 7.4V (or whatever your DSLR needs) you're all set.
  
  Clip off the output cable and plug from the DSLR power adapter, solder that onto the output side of the step down module, hook up some banana plugs to the input side...done. 12V DSLR power for the night.
  
  
• Finally, because it seemed fun, I grabbed some good monocrystaline solar panels and a charge controller, and rigged up a little wood frame I can set up
  next to the RV. No picture, I'm too lazy to drag them out of the RV storage. heh I do want to be clear, though...having some solar recharging capacity is not necessary at all unless you're just crushing this rig for power (see below), but it IS pretty cool and gadgety if you're into such things. :)
  
  ---
  
  
• Ok, smartass, how much power do I actually need?
  
  Easy...you need the number of amps your rig pulls, times the number of hours you'll be using it, times the number of times you want to use it between charges, times 1.5
  
  The two biggest consumers in a typical AP rig will be the laptop and the cooler on a CCD if you have one. DSLRs, focusers, tracking mounts, etc...None of these things use much power at all, and they use VERY little on a constant basis.
  
  Best way to know for sure is simply to use a multimeter to measure the current each one is using under its highest load. In other words, measure the mount while it's slewing, the CCD while it's cooling, the laptop while it's screen is on and drives aren't sleeping and battery is charging, etc.
  
  Add all those up, that's your current needs....you need to be able to provide that many amps at any given time. (That number almost CERTAINLY ought to be under 10A, hence the suggestion of a 10A fuse above).
  
  Now...multiply that number by the number of hours you'll be running the rig. Say you pull 5A, and will be imaging for 6 hours. That's 30AH of capacity you'll use (if everything's running at max).
  
  Now..maybe you want to be able to go camping for a weekend, and not recharge...so you want to shoot for 2 nights. Ok. 30Ah 2 = 60Ah.
  
  And finally, give yourself a nice cushion, so you don't drain the battery completely (a deep cycle CAN handle it..but they still don't "like" it). Let's say 1.5 times the need, so 60 1.5, 90Ah.
  
  You can quite comfortably figure on a 90Ah battery getting you two full nights of use, with no worries. :)
  
  For what it's worth :
  
  I run a cooled CCD, a Losmandy G11 mount, a Toshiba laptop, an Arduino-based focuser, AND support my son and I recharging our RC batteries (various 1.8Ah - 4 Ah capacity 2-6 cell packs) all off the same 101Ah battery. We can pull a complete weekend (leave on Friday afternoon, image Fri/Sat nights, fly Sat/Sun day) RC/Imaging camping trip and come home with about 20-30% capacity left in the battery. With the solar rig added on, we could go 4-5 days or more, depending on sunlight. I did my recent 3 night imaging trip with the same battery, and wasn't even down to half-empty when i got home.
  
  

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA

I know my local auto parts stores sell them for just a few bucks.

Check your cars manual to see the list of fuses. Find something like ACC or Accessory Port fuse, all the fuses should be listed by number. You want to make sure you arent using something like the airbags because if for whatever reason your camera connection does something weird, or you install something incorrectly you dont want to be without any safety features. there is typically a fuse for each cig port your car has tho.

Check your fuse box for that fuse number. now with the power tester connected to a ground (the clamp end you can just clamp to a metal part of your car, often times there is a ground nut/bolt near the fuse box, but I have even just connected it to a metal hinge on my door since its connected to the metal body) and using the tip, touch one of the metal points on the top of the fuse. there are two exposed metal parts on the top of the fuse, on each side of the number (for example 3 amps). when your car is off, the volt meter should not turn on/light up. when you turn your car on, try again and it should light up. with the A119 since it has no automatic parking mode, you want it to turn off when your car shuts off which is why you want to tap into a fuse thats off when your car is off otherwise it will constantly record even when your car is just parked in your garage or wherever you don't want it recording.

the red wire of the hardwire kit will connect to that, so you just put that end into the add-a-fuse and crimp it. you just clamp it down hard enough that it will hold onto the wire, even with slight tugging on it.

take the fuse out of your fuse box and put it on the "bottom" slot, and a 2.5-5amp fuse on the top part. this thread shows pictures if i am not explaining that well: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/which-fuse-to-use-for-powering-my-dashcam.439/

so then you just put the add a fuse into the same slot.

the ground you need to connect to something grounded to your cars frame/body. ideally you would want to use an O ring terminal (like these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66, you can of course find smaller cheaper kits, that was just the first one I found). but if you really wanted to you could just wrap the bare black wire around a ground screw and have the screw tighted down on it. I have done it before and it will work, its just sorta half-assed to do it that way.

I did make a video of the process but to be honest its not the greatest video. every car ive isntalled in has had a fuse box so low and out of the way its hard to film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYT6HmpeP8U

but some people have said the video was still helpful.

just make sure you know what fuse you are connecting to, make sure you put the fuses in the correct slot, make sure the black wire is grounded and you should be good to go.

Ah, so the issue is that you only have one battery on the board at one time, and the charging port is on the board. So you can't charge one while you're riding?

The best solution (in my opinion) is to get a new enclosure that can hold both batteries, and then wire them up in parallel with an xt60 y-connector and the jst y-connector linked above. Swapping batteries on the meepo involves too many screws and too much fuss to sound super practical for me. Apparently this enclosure can hold two (or even three) of those batteries comfortably- https://psychotiller.com/product/the-durban

With that said, soldering those parts above would definitely work. I'd use solder seals personally, they're the easiest way to permanently bond (and insulate) wires together

https://www.amazon.com/HOODDEAL-Waterproof-Solder-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G

It's a low-temp solder+ thick shrinkwrap + adhesive all in one. Good stuff for pretty much any electronics use (if you didn't know of them already).

Putting both batteries on one charger would definitely increase the charging time. Course, you'll also need to charge it less, because bigger batteries. So, there's that.

Check out this thread for more info- https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricSkateboarding/comments/75zkqv/meepo_battery_upgrade/

u/Jreamer said he used the connector I linked above, seems to have no issues with it (that I've heard of).

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

You can solder or there are a variety of solderless connectors out there. A lot of people take the opportunity while they're replacing the fan to add in some type of connector (JST is popular and fine for something low current like a fan) to make any future swaps easier. If you're a bit timid about soldering you can use something like this - solder shrink connectors. I've never used them but have seen folks on another printing group recommend them. They're pretty much just shrink wrap with a bead of solder in the middle, you just stick the two wires in and heat. It solders and shrink wraps them all in one easy step.

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

I mean, any case that can hold an mATX motherboard (and any other components, like a normal ATX power supply, GPU, etc) should be able to fit it. You'd just need to convert the non-standard power switch header to the case's standardized connectors.

The "simplest" way that I think would be relatively reliable, would be to get something like the original power connector assembly (like this one, though there are some cheaper from China, just that they'd probably take longer to arrive), cut the cables, strip the wiring just a little bit, then shove those loose wire ends into the proper corresponding normal header connections (or if you get fancy, solder them to breakaway header pin sort of things (maybe like these, though I'd have to look at actual pin sizing and make sure they're the right type)). The biggest issue with the 5-pin header on this motherboard is that the pins are much smaller and spaced closer than your normal connectors.

To adapt the sysfan fan connection to a normal fan, you'd probably need to get something like one of these or these to adapt to a normal case fan connector. Basically, you're looking for that 5-pin connector to then be able to connect it to a standard fan connector. Most people don't have spare parts lying around, but if one did have a random dell 5-pin fan, you could chop off its plug then "splice" it into a normal fan connector like this.

The pid:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple/dp/B07QS2W736?th=1&psc=1

It’s Celsius but it’s only $19

These heaters $10

https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-Cartridge-Electric-Heating-Fittings/dp/B06XWB86GF

These connectors are good 10 pack $8.45

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wago+connector+3+ten+pack&qid=1570302206&sr=8-3

These cable glands. $2.54

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Waterproof-Cable-Connector/dp/B00EZ76W74/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=pg11+cable+gland+2+pack&qid=1570302379&sr=8-2


Power cable and switch if you want one just take out the switch and rewire it in your box. (Soldering required for switch) $5.49

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-outlet-power-strip-64144.html


You will need 1 foot lengths of the following 16 gage braided wire

6-black
5-white
2-green

Put it all in a DIY box (budget)or you can get one of these: $9.61


https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-CU-3283-Plastic-Utility/dp/B005T5A0W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hobby+box+bud+industries&qid=1570303560&sr=8-1

These work well but I’m starting to like my wood box made from old growth plywood salvaged from an old house. Plus it takes the build cost down $9 if you build your own.

Total cost $46
$55 if you buy the box

Sadly I don't know the type of connector this is, but would be interested to for other projects I have. I'm in need of some small in-line connectors like this.

[edit1] If I'm not mistaken though, it look like some kind of MOLEX brand connector.

[edit2] You could also just splice the wire and add an in-line extension with something like this. You can get them at any hardware store. These are the cripless kind and are a bit more expensive. The others you can get for a few $ if you've got a crimper.

If you really really really hate the idea of soldering, you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

They solder and heatshrink and encapsulate all at once, which is amazing, but they're expensive.

Edit: Also, if you want an iron that's amazing for working on cars, here's the unit I use. It's a butane powered iron. Gets hot in like 10 seconds and works way better than the $25 firestarter turds they sell at the hardware store. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/UT-100SI-32612

The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.

Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.

If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

​

Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.

Good luck!

​

EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html

So... I have to ask... did you know a resistor and a relay are completely unrelated functionally? As in, resistor resists, adding a load to the circuit, (for various reasons needed) and a relay uses a signal from one circuit to complete a wholly separate, circuit.

Therefore, I don't know why you'd use a resistor in place of a relay. Like, at all. Perhaps I need enlightenment there... :)

As far as what relay, in a car, a standard 12v car 'box' relay will do. This one's cool, it comes with a socket it plugs in to. These are cheap and just lying around in any auto parts store, however, and you can use female spade terminals if you want and just bolt it in somewhere handy.

Don't forget either an inline blade fuse holder or an AGC one, and I'd fuse it for, oh, 5 amps. Shouldn't need much, just make it fast blow, and enough amps to ensure the lights won't blow it, but it'll blow in a short. LEDs shouldn't need a big fuse, really.

Hope that helps ya.

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

So you'd have to solder on a new connector. You can use a 5 pin harness, just splice both ends and combine with your current one that just has the bare wires exposed. Another option, if your encoder has the 2 pin connectors for UP, DN, RT, LT, then you could take four 2pin connector cables and solder those onto the exposed wire. 4 of the 2pin connectors need to connect to the black exposed wire (ground) and then the remaining 4 match up with the other 4 depending on color and direction which you can find out here.

If you can't solder, you can use Lever Nuts(they have 2, 3 and 5 sized connectors) or connectors like these or terminal blocks like these.

EDIT: Sorry for not giving credit where credit is due. This was mostly taken from this post here. It has a lot of pictures to refer to as well. Good luck!

Tool wise, you'll need the BBS Luna wrench, allen keys, lots of zip ties, and something to do the wiring.

Two choices for the wiring: Crimping or Soldering.
For crimping, you'll need heat shrink insulated crimping connectors (I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075TYSD26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a crimping tool that works with insulated crimps.
FOr soldering, you'll need heatshrink tubing, a soldering iron, lead solder (don't get that unleaded stuff).
For both a heatgun would be good to have.
Of course you'll need a wire cutter and wire stripper as well.

Depending on chainring, you'll likely need a new (longer) chain than is on the bike, as well as a chain tool to remove the old one.

You'll also want a Thudbuster or Suntour NCX seatpost suspension and a more comfy seat I think.

Those are called gel splices and they're available at most home improvement stores. They're actually pretty cool. Inside is a little bit of 2-part epoxy. When you squeeze it with pliers, the seal containing the epoxy breaks and you get a very durable, waterproof splice. Obviously it's only voice grade, but they're still good at what they do. Here's a product link for them

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

They sell compact 12V to USB power supplies like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Hardwire-Adapter-Smartphone-SiriusXM/dp/B00I3P6QQG/ref=asc_df_B00I3P6QQG/

One of these is compact and light, you can use double stick tape to attach to back of mirror.

SolderSeal connectors both solder and insulate in one connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01FI6IKG6

Or just use some T-taps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Terminals-Insulated-Connectors-Baleauty/dp/B06Y61K18G

In general with a multimeter you can quickly identify which wires are positive ( + 12 volts) and which wires are ground (-) on a car. The vehicle chassis is ground.
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Multimeters-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Backlight/dp/B07G4BH5F8/

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all#measuring-voltage

Is there stranded wire you could suggest for this application?

And yes I typically mount a junction box to a tree and use These or barrier strips inside the box. Then after running through ip68 strain reliefs I let the wire hang down to the ground and loosly zip tie the wire to said tree to help reduce some potential strain.

The whole system is kind of pieced togther throughout the years before I started using different types of wire and different types of connections everywhere. The old technician was very dilligent but our budget is very tight so he used whatever was available.

In an ideal world with a large budget I would tear everything out and build a single armored, hermetically sealed system that uses common connectors everywhere and is completely separate from the chairlift system, but that may not happen for a long time.

You can pretty much do as you wish. You can normally put 2 or more wires in those clamp down terminals.

In my day, we'd use something like this to connect up our circuit.

Why not these? https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-UR-3-2-Wire-Splice/dp/B004EEMJS4 This is pretty standard for splicing telephone line and they are super quick.

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

Don't have a picture of the flip side I'll try to grab one. It's pretty basic. I bought these fans: WINSINN 50mm Fan 12V Brushless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDG3NYZ

Clipped off the connector it came with and grouped them all together (red w/ red, black w/ black) and crimped and soldered them to these terminals:
Baomain Red Insulated Fork Spade Wire Connector Electrical Crimp Terminal 18-22AWG 100 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1753K2

Then connected them to a barrier strip (for easy detachment and in case I want to add another fan later):
10pcs (5 Sets) 5 Positions Dual Row 600V 15A Screw Terminal Strip Blocks with Cover + 400V 15A 5 Positions Pre-Insulated Terminals Barrier Strip (Black & Red) by MILAPEAK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLY91HZ

From the strip I ran 22awg wires to the +12v on the PSU.

That depends on your soldering skills and how much time you have.

Don't get me wrong -- I have a very nice solder station and am good at soldering, but these are a very accepted method of running alarm wire. I've never been a huge fan of them, but they're reliable and available in both dry, and gel-filled (to keep moisture out) options, and just work well.

Another option is UY connectors. These are more used in the telecom industry, but are also usually gel-filled and rated for alarm-gauge cable.

I've used both for alarm and entry-type cable with success.

It's not good for weak signals or high current connections. If you don't want to use proper crimp joints, solder the wires inline, either by twisting the bare strands around each other or by straightening the strands and pushing them together so they interleave. With the latter, it may help to spiral wind a single fine strand of wire around the joint. Applying rosin flux to the joint before soldering can help a lot. Cover the joint with a piece of heatshrink tubing that's at least 1.5" longer than the bare area, both for insulation and mechanical support (soldered stranded wire is prone to cracking).

Another possibility is SoldaSplice. It's heatshrink tubing with a ring of solder in the middle. You insert the wires and use a heat gun to both melt the solder and shrink the tubing.

/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.

OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.

If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.

I wonder how many people commenting here actually have a Trailtech product? I have two of them.

You can wire it directly to the battery if you would like. It won't run the battery down. They shut themselves off automatically. They also have their own, internal battery to run the clock. I have my CRF250X set up this way. It has a very... minimal electrical system, there almost isn't any outlet for switched power.

You could also run it off of the tail light or license plate light if you want switched power. Posi-Tap connectors would make this very easy.

Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connector-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389UT3I

I used a dual usb with a magnetic/water resistant closure and really like it. I’ll link it later when I get home if you want. I also tied into wires instead of direct to battery they make wire tie ins that just clamp on like this:

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4bdBbTK9RZRB

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

• 12v vs 24v question - many 24v strips have longer "cut intervals", so if you needed a piece exactly 9" long, you might have to go over/under to fit. For the same wattage, 24v strips draw less current which lets you use smaller wires.
  
• wiring - There are many ways to do this... as you made reference to, voltage drop happens w/ long strips. If you attempt to daisy-chain them, it can get pretty bad. If you do a sort of star or home-run configuration, you mostly avoid the problem. You run a 2-conductor power wire to where each strip is from your power supply. If it were just a couple, you could just use wire nuts. (not very sturdy, but they work fine).
  For this job, I'd probably use some of these:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CM1JQCR/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1
  
   
  
  One bar for positive (red), one for negative (black). You run a slightly larger gauge wire from your power supply to the bus bars. You then run a wire to each strip location. Just keep your polarity (red/blacks) straight. On the side w/ the bus bars, you can crimp on little spade lugs to the wires if you want it to look neat. You could mount the bus bars to a board, or put them inside a little plastic box if you want to hide it, just make sure you don't short out any of the wires if you have 'em all bunched together.
  
  You can probably still daisy-chain a couple of those cubbies w/o too much dimming, though.
  
  PowerSupply --> Bus ----> cubbie1 --> cubbie2 --> cubbie3

Also for splicing into wires, [Posi-taps] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00389UT3I) work awesome

Having a set of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TYSD26/ wire crimp connectors with shrink wrap is a great idea.

The one I recomend uses mirco USB. I ended up having to re-wire everything too but lucky for me, I just had to tap into the 12v power supply from the rear view mirror. I tuck everything underneath the headliner.

I bought this

And soldered these to the bare ends. I used those pins to put them into the connector behind the rear view mirror. Looks like this.

Those would work, but unless your planning to swap radios frequently crimp caps or butt connectors are easier. They are available and just about every auto parts and hardware store.

Hm, it's not very complicated though. If you cut the cable, there are 8 wires inside: 3 black ones, 3 yellow ones, a blue one and a red one.

You connect all the black ones and the blue one together and wire those to the negative wire of a socket like this. Then you take the three yellow ones, connect them together and wire them to the positive wire. Done.

If you're not sure how to connect the wires together, these are more or less perfect for the job. Maybe you can find them locally.

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

If it doesn't have to be something that can be disconnected easily, then this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EZBYQ

Practice on some spare wires first. Takes a bit of trial and error, but then works great.

Not being able to disconnect might be against code. But then, it's only low voltage. So, probably not a big deal

Ah makes sense, thanks for all the info!

So from a full day of research here's what I'm thinking:


2M of RBGW SK6812

Splitting them into 12 - 6 inch long strips. (Probably only use 6-8 but figured better to have more than not enough)

Battery power through 7.5A fuse (the strip is rated at 43W/m at 5V the next fuse is 10A so figured go lower to be safer?) and relay/switch tapped to ACC line run through 12v step down to 5v through ALITOVE bluetooth controller into wago connectors with diodes going to each strip



https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B079ZX7LY3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539729680&sr=8-2&keywords=rgbw%2Bsk6812&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Female-Connector-WS2812B-SK6812-RGBW/dp/B071H5XCN5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539737420&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+connector+3+pin

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539736197&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+step+down+to+5v

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Controller-SK6812-RGBW-Programmable/dp/B07G77YD9L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539734109&sr=8-1&keywords=12v++SK6812


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107SYYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You, Sir... need to be turned on to these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-DuraSeal-Butt-Splices-22-18-10-Clam-Heat-Shrink-CPGI-D-406-0001-10/202204344

They've got these, too... which are pretty awesome(Heatshrink with solder!):
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

Jesus, have you never heard of insulated butt splices? Solder-and-seal connectors are even better.

There are several products that you can use that will not require using wire nuts, which can be large and difficult to work with in confined spaces with not enough wire. This is one of those products, meant to lengthen wire-connections for various reasons. You will along with this product, need another 2-3 inches of copper wire, the same kind that is the wire of the door bell. You crimp, or squeeze this product on to the end of the wire, without the copper protruding from the wire, and use another piece of wire to extend the connection to your doorbell. With this product you will cut off the visible copper from the wire, and attach the product on the wire including its colored insulation. You might benefit from going to a store that has electrical stuff, and having someone guide you through what you'll need. Needle nose pliers, wire cutters, etc. Hopefully my description is sufficient. Good luck.

Buy a couple of Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. They are much easier to work with and they don’t mess up the tip of your wires in case you have to modify anything inside there in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_3/134-9665181-4117155?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_r=8b3b9b4d-824e-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=jREPn&pd_rd_wg=tI4UX&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN&psc=1&refRID=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=wago+413+10+pk&qid=1559161061&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

I prefer the 414 ones but couldn’t find them right now. They’re optimal in my view.

Oh those wire into the daytime running lights and the turn signal. I used these to make splicing easy. On mine the green wire is the turn signal and the red wire is the DRL, black is ground.

Just find some splice terminals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2L6Z6JKOO7AAV&keywords=wire+tap+connectors&qid=1558381066&s=gateway&sprefix=wire+tap%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-8

Use them to connect a Power Magic Pro onto battery/switched/ground wires.

They are pc fans. I guess I am trying to find out if it is possible to use 2 of the 12v 1Amp drivers to run 3 fans at 12v and 666mA, instead of 1 driver that is currently running them at 12v 333mA to each fan. -- and keep from hitting them with 24v.

I am using wago connectors for my wiring. So if I just plugged in an additional driver, would this double the overall output to 24v 2Amps, or does it stay at 12v and just double the Amperage since each driver is only putting out 12v. ??

i love these connectors with solder built into them. stick your two wires in and use a heat gun and you're done.


https://www.amazon.com/HOODDEAL-Waterproof-Solder-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G

So like a “vampire tooth”-connector?

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIlTCbG08V4HF

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

They sell them at every auto parts store in the country. A few different variants on wiring. Look up how to wire a relay, not too hard. You will need to get an ignition-tied 12 volt signal from somewhere, yes you'll have to tap into the factory wiring but there are a million places to do this behind the dash/fairing/gauges/ignition.

I can run with that I think. By using a relay like this (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6) I should be able to tie the 12v that starts the pump to the contacts 30(+) and 85(-), wires to the sensor to 85(-) and 87(+), and connect the 30(+) to 86(+) to trigger.

Sure thing:

Charger Port
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-dual-usb-device-charger?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN9lAYkK9VHJy09GpoVvsMyWgTRaMPgoooQ8iCKM6-xxBoC3IDw_wcB

Relay
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

Sure do.

Terminal Blocks

4 Conductor Wire

This picture shows a pigtail connection.

Basically, you will join all the black wires, and all the white wires together using a cap or better yet, a set of these. in those groups you will also add a new ~5" section of wire to connect the outlet.

I wouldn't suggest trying to get all 3 sets of the current wires to the outlet, because if you dont get it tight enough you have a point of failure. ARC = Fires

Check this out at Amazon.com
Wago 221-413 LEVER-NUTS 3... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYXVXR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got red and black...

Check this out at Amazon.com
Remington Industries... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010T5Y6PU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Check this out at Amazon.com
Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WA0W62S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check this out at Amazon.com
ATPWONZ IP68 Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NALYPFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll have to go check, but they're standard 12v automotive relays. They look similar to these, which are actually cheaper. So, never mind, get them from Amazon.

Forgive me if it sounds ignorant: is junction recommended for safety/neatness or is it a technical must, as opposed to twist-on wire nuts I thought of using? If it's a must, would it be something like these (terminal blocks):

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2
https://www.galco.com/buy/Bussmann/TB100-04

I'll mount the sticks on the outside of the rim, bringing the wires along the spokes to the center of the wheel.

No, you still wouldn't ever want to do it that way. Just use a standby UPS plugged into the same circuit as the primary supply. Least sketchy way to do it would be to score the power cable along the length for a couple inches and around the circumference all the way through and peel off the jacket to expose the three inner conductors and slap on a t tap on each one. Then just wire up an adapter going from a standard NEMA 5 plug to the spade terminals from the t taps.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

All you would do to switch it over is plug the cable into the UPS first, then plug the spade connectors into the t taps, unplug the original power cable from the wall and immediately plug it into the UPS, then unplug the spade connectors and remove the adapter cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Terminals-Automotive/dp/B075TYSD26/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542647519&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=splices&dpPl=1&dpID=512rF%2BLN5JL&ref=plSrch

I second Wago connectors, These are what i would use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=hr3Yf&pf_rd_r=ZYXJFJQHX01M7APC8JBR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_w=TPn4N&pf_rd_i=wago+connector&pd_rd_r=6ee3ce01-8e70-4bdb-9718-965ceb4fcdc1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541084967&sr=3

here you go, the modern gold standard. Solder Seal heat shrink tubing.

It won't work, all 16 wires are shorted together.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517709445&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=WAGO+5+PORT+LEVER+NUTS