Reddit mentions: The best butt terminals

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Ah, so the issue is that you only have one battery on the board at one time, and the charging port is on the board. So you can't charge one while you're riding?

The best solution (in my opinion) is to get a new enclosure that can hold both batteries, and then wire them up in parallel with an xt60 y-connector and the jst y-connector linked above. Swapping batteries on the meepo involves too many screws and too much fuss to sound super practical for me. Apparently this enclosure can hold two (or even three) of those batteries comfortably- https://psychotiller.com/product/the-durban

With that said, soldering those parts above would definitely work. I'd use solder seals personally, they're the easiest way to permanently bond (and insulate) wires together

https://www.amazon.com/HOODDEAL-Waterproof-Solder-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G

It's a low-temp solder+ thick shrinkwrap + adhesive all in one. Good stuff for pretty much any electronics use (if you didn't know of them already).

Putting both batteries on one charger would definitely increase the charging time. Course, you'll also need to charge it less, because bigger batteries. So, there's that.

Check out this thread for more info- https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricSkateboarding/comments/75zkqv/meepo_battery_upgrade/

u/Jreamer said he used the connector I linked above, seems to have no issues with it (that I've heard of).

Its definitely a weird size, I measured a spare Harmon Kardon speaker I have and the cone itself is 2.5" but the mounting points are about 3.5" or 3.75".

http://imgur.com/a/V449V

As for the connector, so you have the aftermarket speaker already? Personally I'd be tempted just to solder it in place unless you plan on removing it all that often. Otherwise I'd take it to a local car audio store or even home depot and get something like this. They're usually pretty universal but just make sure its the right size for the speaker. Then just cut off the stock connector and replace with the crimp connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/100PCS-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B00FZK932G

If you can get your hands on a stock speaker and still want to go aftermarket the green connector on the speaker itself is just riveted on and can be drilled out and soldered onto an aftermarket speaker. I did that in my 9-3 and it worked like a charm. Hope that helps...

You can solder or there are a variety of solderless connectors out there. A lot of people take the opportunity while they're replacing the fan to add in some type of connector (JST is popular and fine for something low current like a fan) to make any future swaps easier. If you're a bit timid about soldering you can use something like this - solder shrink connectors. I've never used them but have seen folks on another printing group recommend them. They're pretty much just shrink wrap with a bead of solder in the middle, you just stick the two wires in and heat. It solders and shrink wraps them all in one easy step.

On god. Yeah that's for savages. Klein makes an really good crimper . Nothing fancy, but very well made, hardened tool steel, and covers pretty much all automotive wire gauges. Also need to use good crimp connectors like these . They come with a high heat, heat shrink you can just use a regular lighter to shrink down

Crimp on self adhesive shrink connections.

A: crimp on takes vibration well

B: shrink tube

C: adhesive

All these work together well. The adhesive and shrink tube work really well to help support the joints. The crimp connections hold up to vibration better than solder.

They are not cheapest, but not bad, bulk packs on Amazon are around $30.

They take a fair bit of heat with a heat gun to melt together but make a very strong water resistant connection.

Edit : these are the ones I'm currently using. Under $20 125pcs Wire Connectors, Sopoby Heat Shrink Wire Connector Kit Waterproof Assorted Crimp Connector Electrical Set, 22-10GA(50Red 50Blue 25Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS3ZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nm-PybEB3BFMP

Strongly recommend replacing, but could be fixed with a solder shrink job. Connectors like these are also very good, I use them often. https://smile.amazon.com/12-10AWG-Insulated-Electrical-Terminal-Connector/dp/B01AN1MYIG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1493741890&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=10+awg+solder+shrink


Crimp each side, then heat it and solder melts the two together. It also shrinks the heat-shrink wrap. But as stated before, tech should be eating a little bit of work here. Teching seems to be one of the few jobs out there it's acceptable to have to re-do something for free, unfortunately.

If you really really really hate the idea of soldering, you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

They solder and heatshrink and encapsulate all at once, which is amazing, but they're expensive.

Edit: Also, if you want an iron that's amazing for working on cars, here's the unit I use. It's a butane powered iron. Gets hot in like 10 seconds and works way better than the $25 firestarter turds they sell at the hardware store. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/UT-100SI-32612

Do you know what wiper motor you have? Or what year and model car it came from? From that we can get the amperage.

Voltage doesn't matter-- everything is 12 volts (DC).

Amperage does matter, but I'm guessing your wiper motor uses around 1A. The relay of the remote I linked to earlier has a rating of 5A, so you might put a 5A fuse in there. If there's a short, it will definitely go above 5A and blow the fuse (which is what you want). Here's an example of a fuse holder that would work, but there a million options.

Since you're using a 5A fuse, you could use 16 or 18 AWG wire (rated for 7 and 10A).

So far I've been talking about the circuit for the motor that passes through the relay. For the receiver's power, you could use another 5A fuse with the same wire just to be consistent, though it really is only using milli-amps.

So basically, we size the protection (the 5A fuse) above the normal operating current (1A?), and then everything else is sized to be higher than the protection (5A+).

Finally, you'll wonder how you're supposed to connect the wires together. The best option is to solder the wires together and put heat shrink around the joint. If you can't handle that, they sell crimp wire splices for that. You can buy a real crimper or just use pliers.

Sometimes you can disassemble the part where the cord enters the unit and reinstall the cable (use a new short extension cord).

If not:

Solder and Heat shrink FTW.

You will want to slip a large piece (about 8”) over all three wires and slide it well away from the solder area (soldier gun is hot enough to shrink it). You will then want to use small diameter tube about 2” in length for each of the wires. Strip about 1/2” on both ends of the wire and make sure you have about 3-4” of wire to play with on one end of the splice (so you can slide the small tube away from the solder area).

You won’t be twisting anything. Look up on YouTube how to solder wires (too difficult to explain....much easier to understand when you see it done).

Once the solder is finished....slide the small tubes over the splice. Shrink them. Now slide the big tube over everything. Shrink it. Enjoy.


Edit: less elegant but also effective:

Use a large piece of shrink tube (same as above) and 3 heat shrink butt crimp connectors (like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors-16-14/dp/B07M9JQ6RW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=68042739517&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIncG5yYDC4wIVhv5kCh2qjAT6EAAYASAAEgK4O_D_BwE&hvadid=338989923295&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9031339&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6338190271234502865&hvtargid=kwd-423957319905&hydadcr=14668_9772399&keywords=14+awg+crimp+connectors&qid=1563574411&s=gateway&sr=8-3)

Surprised no one has mentioned this, but it's very likely that you'll have an easier time using butt connectors (it's a real thing). They're much easier to use than solder, and if all your doing is connecting two wires, it will likely end up with a nicer result.

Butt connector on Amazon

EHow on using them

Solder has it's place, but this isn't really it (from your description anyway).

No worries, you've got a good mindset to learn and no time like the present.

I'll add that most swear by solder and heatshrink + electrical tape. This is nice once you're really acclimated but you'll likely end up reconnecting things several times as you tinker and expand. I'll list below my couple of absolute favorite things I've picked up over the years and why I bought it:

Ratcheting Wire Crimper-- Can't tell you how many crimps have failed just because I didn't apply enough force. The ratchet ensures you get that final click down.

And a pricier ratchet I invested in over time-- Nice because it's more modular but not needed.


Posi Twists and also Posi Taps-- These make for quick connections + testing. Various sizes available but I tend to get some that cover 14+, and another set for smaller gauges ~22+

Solder Seal Wire Connectors-- I started buying these in bulk recently because they're just stupidly easy to use and make a rather quick and solid connection. Soldering is another experience onto itself if you've never done it before. While I tend to do more circuit-board soldering than wire to wire, it's all relatively similar and you'll find certain products that you fancy more over time. The biggest thing I'd say here is to buy solder WITH lead. Can't tell you how much frustration I've had over shit solder, haha.

My most recent wire stripper-- I chose because it has the largest range of gauges and there's no internal spring that forces the stripper open. Having one tool to do 10awg all the way to 26 is pretty sweet.

Tool wise, you'll need the BBS Luna wrench, allen keys, lots of zip ties, and something to do the wiring.

Two choices for the wiring: Crimping or Soldering.
For crimping, you'll need heat shrink insulated crimping connectors (I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075TYSD26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a crimping tool that works with insulated crimps.
FOr soldering, you'll need heatshrink tubing, a soldering iron, lead solder (don't get that unleaded stuff).
For both a heatgun would be good to have.
Of course you'll need a wire cutter and wire stripper as well.

Depending on chainring, you'll likely need a new (longer) chain than is on the bike, as well as a chain tool to remove the old one.

You'll also want a Thudbuster or Suntour NCX seatpost suspension and a more comfy seat I think.

I have that exact head unit. I hope you did not order it yet cause it sucks.

1. When browsing your USB music files, it's really slow and the screen movements have a lot of hesitation to it as you wait for song list to load. If you ever used an old Android 1.xx Tablet, yeah, it's about as smooth as that.
   
2. Music from USB drive cuts out often. Usually 1-2 seconds but is crazy annoying.
   
   I would go with something from JVC or Clarion. Sony's also has some issues but it's not as slow as this Pioneer.
   
   For connecting wires, I highly recommend the 3M scotchloks. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Pack/dp/B0076AY1PC/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GRPGJWV0YNVV628S0S1H
   
   You should or will want to, use an amp for those speakers. This one from JL is affordable, good quality build, tiny and 4 channels,nice sound quality while being really small to fit anywhere: https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-MHX280-Compact-Amplifier/dp/B012ZNKQHQ
   
   I think it sounds just as good as my pricier JL XD450/3 amp

Solder and weaherproof heat shrink is a better choice but lately I've been using non-insulated butt connectors/splices like these https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Uninsulated-Terminals-4-0-6-0mm²-1-5-2-5mm²/dp/B01B2A8R7E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526520295&sr=8-6&keywords=non-insulated+butt+connectors and using heat shrink over them because it's quicker, makes a good connection and lately every break in a wire has been right at the connector leaving me just a nub to work with.

Those are called gel splices and they're available at most home improvement stores. They're actually pretty cool. Inside is a little bit of 2-part epoxy. When you squeeze it with pliers, the seal containing the epoxy breaks and you get a very durable, waterproof splice. Obviously it's only voice grade, but they're still good at what they do. Here's a product link for them

Trace the wire back to it's connector in the harness and remove it so your not working on it in the Jeep. Also I like these over crimp connectors. Easier and give a better connection. MONOLIT 100pcs Solder Seal Electrical Connectors, Waterproof Marine Automotive Wire Connector Kit, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, 10 - 26 awg. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7Q6WS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pTOEAbYAEF0MV

Is It ?

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Now I won't say replacing your radio is a walk in the park. But its pretty straight forward.

1. Remove plastic trimming around the radio
   
2. There are at least 4 bolts holding it together, remove them
   
3. Slide out the radio (also called head unit) and remove the metal bracket around it
   
4. Release the connector and power antenna cable
   
5. You will need a your make and models radio plastic adapters for the new radios surroundings, butt connectors , crimp tool , and a radio harness (Search for your cars make, model and "radio harness" the toyota one here is an example)
   
6. Take your new head units adapter and crimp the end wires to the butt connectors
   
7. Then take your harness wire ends and crimp it to the other side of the butt connector. Congrats ! that was the hardest part
   
8. Screw the plastic cover adapaters to the metal bracket you took off the old radio.
   
9. Connect the cars radio adapter to your harness adapter & connect the power radio plug
   
10. Turnon the car and see if it works
    
    Thats mainly it. Of course google search your make and model for any detailed youtube video and look up some popular channels to see what help you can get. You'll appreciate your old speakers again. I have a $20 dual head unit i bought, but you can get other quality head units for $50. If you become confident from installing a cheap head unit. You can sell that shit and get a new shiny android auto or apple carplay headunit once you leave povertyfinance !

That depends on your soldering skills and how much time you have.

Don't get me wrong -- I have a very nice solder station and am good at soldering, but these are a very accepted method of running alarm wire. I've never been a huge fan of them, but they're reliable and available in both dry, and gel-filled (to keep moisture out) options, and just work well.

Another option is UY connectors. These are more used in the telecom industry, but are also usually gel-filled and rated for alarm-gauge cable.

I've used both for alarm and entry-type cable with success.

Grab some quick connect clips
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L74LNCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i-k8BbBM5JN9F

They aren't permanent when you undo them it leaves a tiny splice in the wiring ... won't interfere with the function. Even after its removed.

I grabbed the hot and ground from the 12v round socket. Right in the center console. Next to the shifter. (Accessory hot only... only works when the key is on)

If you use a cheap 12v indicator it makes it easy to find a hot.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/project-pro-automotive-circuit-tester-tw1486-1486/25989105-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=25989105-P&adtype=pla&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAiAlb_fBRBHEiwAzMeEdhcZcEoliWNoycOy6evFUQY5FACscUi3Myyt4Q3TqBG8oiMF-iTovBoCFQUQAvD_BwE

If you want a constant hot... grab the top left lead on your OBD2 port (even with your keys off you should have 12v power) I did it on my wife's prius so you can leave your device charging while the car is off.

Any ground will do.

If you need more help with the specifics just ask.

Note I am assuming that you have a general understanding of 12v DC (car electronics)

It's not good for weak signals or high current connections. If you don't want to use proper crimp joints, solder the wires inline, either by twisting the bare strands around each other or by straightening the strands and pushing them together so they interleave. With the latter, it may help to spiral wind a single fine strand of wire around the joint. Applying rosin flux to the joint before soldering can help a lot. Cover the joint with a piece of heatshrink tubing that's at least 1.5" longer than the bare area, both for insulation and mechanical support (soldered stranded wire is prone to cracking).

Another possibility is SoldaSplice. It's heatshrink tubing with a ring of solder in the middle. You insert the wires and use a heat gun to both melt the solder and shrink the tubing.

You want the one labeled car radio accessory switched on the list on this page.

http://www.modifiedlife.com/2003-jeep-grand-cherokee-car-stereo-wiring-diagram/

You want to use something like this to add the wire for the power to the module.

Ginsco 67pcs 24-10 AWG Quick Splice Solderless Wire and T-Tap Electrical Connector Assortment Kit with Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L74LNCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N48aAbKZWEH7C

It squeezes over the wires and punctures the insulation. Very handy to have around for all sorts of stuff.

I would mount something like this in the dash somewhere and connect the headphone jack from the module to the back. Use another cable to connect to your phone. This way the replaceable cable from the dash to your phone takes the abuse and can be replaced when it breaks instead of having to replace the module and tear apart the dash again.

Philmore 3.5mm 4-Conductor Panel Mount Stereo Jack with Nickel Plated Metal Housing : 45-396 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073MSCPPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_178aAbDEFDM4N

It would have been easier and probably better sound quality to just get an aftermarket radio.

You could consider something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StrivedayTM68pcs-Spring-Connector-welding-Terminal/dp/B01KT91OEW
Or if you really like the snap connector, you could find these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B003K0J4IQ

Having a set of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TYSD26/ wire crimp connectors with shrink wrap is a great idea.

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

If it doesn't have to be something that can be disconnected easily, then this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EZBYQ

Practice on some spare wires first. Takes a bit of trial and error, but then works great.

Not being able to disconnect might be against code. But then, it's only low voltage. So, probably not a big deal

You, Sir... need to be turned on to these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-DuraSeal-Butt-Splices-22-18-10-Clam-Heat-Shrink-CPGI-D-406-0001-10/202204344

They've got these, too... which are pretty awesome(Heatshrink with solder!):
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

Jesus, have you never heard of insulated butt splices? Solder-and-seal connectors are even better.

Buy these

100PCS Blue Male Insulated Spade Electrical Wire Crimp Terminal Connector Free Shipping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9WTOOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LRc2xbTA5M4EN

i love these connectors with solder built into them. stick your two wires in and use a heat gun and you're done.


https://www.amazon.com/HOODDEAL-Waterproof-Solder-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G

Possibly there are a few different types.

Scotchlock - basically one piece that provides connections for both wires.

[Scotchlock]
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Double-Electrical-Connector/dp/B06X6MPH1K

or a standard T-tap

[T-Tap]
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MBTT-T-Tap-Connector/dp/B001JT72D4

The t-tap only provides the splice connection, you would put a male spade on the new wire and connect it to the T-tap.

[Male Spade]
https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal-14-16AWG/dp/B00G9WTOOG


These are just examples to give you an idea, make sure you have the right size for the guage wire you are using. I believe it was 14awg wire for the CR-10x

I like how you think. True, the NEC would say "with listed parts per manufacturer specification" unless there is something I haven't seen, what others are mentioning here is for small wire that cuts into the sheathing and makes contact with the wire for teenagers shitty car audio systems.
I would think using a decent sized screw and lugs you could realistically get 70 amps worth of contact area. Have to do some testing to make sure it's not breaking strands, but going between them

I have everything daisy chained together from a 12v power supply.


3528 2 Pin LED Strip Jumper Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739V9DRR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Striveday™68pcs 2p Spring Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT91OEW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Regular red/black wire.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grey Wire Connector Pack, Bag of 100... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0GN4YQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Should get you in the right direction.

These work well, use them all the time, if you see an att technician out there you can ask him/her for a handful

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0076AY1PC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464033608&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=scotch+locks+3m&dpPl=1&dpID=615-Bg-jvAL&ref=plSrch

I don't know if these would help but my husband uses them to solder wires together.

MONOLIT 100pcs Solder Seal... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N7Q6WS7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

here you go, the modern gold standard. Solder Seal heat shrink tubing.

Next time, order some butt connectors and a stripper/crimper. You need these tools anyway.

Oh... You just wait till they whip out the butt connectors!

https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Terminals-Automotive/dp/B075TYSD26/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542647519&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=splices&dpPl=1&dpID=512rF%2BLN5JL&ref=plSrch

Looks like standard DSL, using a single pair phone line, with not termination block they used standard 3M Butt Connectors (http://amzn.to/2u7anpY). This wouldn't have been a real pro who did this though. Also your DSL speed has more to do with how far you are from the central equipment if they have upgraded it to higher speeds.
I did some contract DSL installation and ran into this type of stuff all the time, called out on a fixit call and some contractor before did something like this but more jank. Of they would call me out because there was someone who already tried but didn't know anything only to fix it with minimal effort on my part like, they would plug the DSL modem into the wrong phone drop (phone connection).

What's the problem with splicing? It's not permanent. You just remove it when you don't want it anymore. Get these.

As far as finding switched power, get a wire tester and poke some wires with it while turning the key on and off. When you find a wire that's hot when the key is on and dead when they key is off, use that wire.