Reddit mentions of BLACK+DECKER Cordless Screwdriver with Pivoting Handle, 3.6V (Li2000)

As a maintenance guy at an apartment complex, I disagree. I have an 18v Dewalt XRP and one of these little guys and they both get a good amount of use. My coworkers and I have even taken to calling it the mighy might because of how deceptively strong it is.


Case in point, I once got a call around midnight for a kicked in door. I get there to secure it for the night until I could replace the jamb the next day. As soon as i start driving screws with my Dewalt it dies. Its late, the cops are gone, and this place is shady as fuck when the sun goes down, so I decide to bust out mighty might. I wasn't expecting much since I was using 3" screws directly into studs, but I'll be damned it it didn't power through and get the job done. little guy saved my ass.


It's also the shit for hanging blinds. My big bulky drill is super uncomfortable to hold in the corner of a window and drive a screw straight, but lil' mighty will knock that shit out lickety split. I've had mine two years and I aboslutely love it. Once it dies for good I will definitely be grabbing another one.


BTW mine is the plug in model, it lasts about a day with moderate use on a full charge.


Here is a link to the exact one I have.

I️ have an electric screwdriver that does the trick and much more portable than a drill, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LTNLDS/ref=zg_bs_552750_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FSBS17NZ19RTBQ2WTED3

At 2-20 cabinets I assume these are private facilities and not Co-Location facilities.

It all boils down to well-thought out standards that align with your needs & requirements.

Plenty of good recommendations in the thread already, but I'll chime in with some of my favorites.

1. Equipment Cabinets as tall, wide and deep as possible.
   

• Floor space is finite. You can't (easily) make the equipment room bigger. So use all of the vertical space that is available to you.
  
• Devices & equipment keeps squeezing more capabilities into the same 1U and 2U form factors, often at the expense of additional equipment depth.
  
• 900 and 1000mm deep cabinets are just not cutting it anymore. Standardize on 1200mm depth, or you'll regret it soon.
  
• I like this PDF from APC here as it provides a clear illustration of the problems encountered when you are forced to install a deep device in a shallow cabinet. Ignore the concept that maybe you don't use Cisco UCS servers. Someday somebody is going to buy a device as deep as that UCS enclosure and want to mount it in one of your cabinets.
  

2. Air Flow, Air Flow, AIR FLOW !!!
   

• Hot Aisles and Cold Aisles.
  
• Where will the hot air go?
  
• Where is the cold air coming from?
  
• If this is a small, 6 cabinet environment, having a big assed 36" industrial fan in the room for just-in-case is a brilliant investment.
  

3. I don't want 110V power in the server environment. Everything in the cabinets is 220V.
   

• We deliver 2 or 4 x L6-30R connections to each cabinet.
  
• My initial response to a request for 110V power in a cabinet will be very negative, bordering on hostile.
  
• Anything that is 110V-only isn't data center grade. Go find a better product and come back with a new request.
  
• Yes, I will eventually cave in and meet the needs of the business.
  

4. Yes, I fully agree with having a permanent stash of consumables in the facility (if this is a private facility).
   

• 1" or 3/4" velcro by the roll.
  
• 12" medium-duty zip-ties.
  
• Label Printer and a cable labeling solution.
  
• Flashlight, multi-bit screwdriver, Cage Nut tool. In a larger facility I want an electric screwdriver, but small & light not big and powerful Like This, NOT Like This
  
• Patch cables, Fiber jumpers, SFP/SFP+ optics
  
• I don't want a Co-Lo provider to provide these things for free. Such a service will be abused and the costs of that abuse will be passed forward to us.
  
• I love seeing a credit-card enabled vending machine outside of the data center floor with these things in it. I'll put a $10 15' CAT6 patch cord on my AmEx in a heartbeat if it saves me from having to sign out of the facility and crawl into my car because I'm one cable short.
  
  
  ...
  
  
  I had more thoughts, but I've lost them...
  
  

as with just about any tool, you don't absolutely need a jointer. there are many other ways to get one straight edge, and the easiest way is to have the lumber yard do it for you. unfortunately, you're still at the mercy of their tooling and level of effort and it sounds like they didn't do a great job. even with that edge though, you need a reliable way to make the other edge parallel.

a decent table saw can make a glue-ready edge if the opposite edge is already flat and straight. Featherboards can help a lot with this effort, though as long as you keep pressure against the fence while feeding it you're accomplishing the same goal. I think the problem you'll run into is that your table saw was never really designed to do that. there will be some amount of flex in the fence, the table and fence are really too short for long precise cuts, the table is likely not perfectly flat, there just isn't enough mass to counter the little nudges and wiggles that feeding a 50 lb board across it will generate, and the whole thing is probably not properly aligned nor can it be. all of that adds up to an inaccurate cut (I think you've already experienced this) and an inaccurate cut means a difficult and frustrating glue-up. it's good enough for construction work where you just need to get close and do it quick. that's what that saw is made for... just like a power screwdriver can technically drill holes, you can't expect it to do the job as well as a full-height drill press. one is portable and handy, the other is heavy and accurate. such is the nature of woodworking tools.

I think if I was in your situation, I would forget about the table saw for this purpose and get a really good blade for my circular saw. clamp a good straightedge to the board and make sure the whole thing is clamped to a sturdy bench or table. take your time and make a good straight cut, then do your damnedest to repeat the process on the other edge and make it parallel. this is going to be even more difficult with lumber that isn't flat on top or bottom, so for extra credit, make yourself a door board.

Good luck, this is doable. it's going to take a lot of effort but I think you will learn a lot, plus you'll enjoy the final product even more.

also, decent electric screwdriver.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-3-Position-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B005LTNLDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418257962&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+screwdriver

im all about manually doing it with a high quality precision kit, but if its what he wants, it must suit a need.

That's overkill IMO. This would be more practical for furniture. I have a similar NiCad one that works great.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Li2000-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B005LTNLDS/