Reddit mentions of Hilitchi Professional Insulated Wire Terminals Connectors Ratcheting Crimper Tool for 22-10AWG

Answers:

1. A cable cutter https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-911-Cable-Cutting-9-5-Inch/dp/B00004SBDG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cable+cutter&qid=1556237766&s=hi&sr=1-3 makes a nice clean cut; electrician's side cutters squishes the cable https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J2000-48-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B0006M6Y8O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1YQ9ZDYTGHD0N&keywords=side+cutters+klein&qid=1556237820&s=hi&sprefix=side+cutter%2Ctools%2C182&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 (I use side cutters as my next move is to put an end on it anyways)
   
   
2. Solder, Crimp or Compression connectors plus appropriate tools. Everyone has their favourite and it can become a religious war so I'll say no more. If crimping or compressing, use a ratcheting tool https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Professional-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting/dp/B01IQIALJC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ratchet+crimp+tool&qid=1556237927&s=hi&sr=1-4 they usually look something like this but note the good handles cost upwards to $100 and the cheap ones (as pictured) aren't worth it as they wear out quickly. You'll also need a set of dies https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-2656-CrimpALL-8000-Crimper/dp/B000JJGR1S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lmr+400+crimp+dies&qid=1556238008&s=hi&sr=1-5-spell for the appropriate size and type of coax. Some websites (DXE, Powerwerx) sell kits of this stuff for Ham use and the value is good.
   
   
3. No rip-off when you consider the value of the tools . . .
   
   
4. You always need a RF connector to attach a cable to anything; you can't splice the stuff and have the impedance remain intact.
   
   
5. Loss is additive in RF and your goal should be to minimize it everywhere and match impedance everywhere. Cheap coax will last a little while, better coax lasts decades - make the investment and you won't be sorry.
   
   73

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

I've run into several people who have tried crimping with crimping pliers or the awful stripper/crimper tool that comes with a case of crimp connectors.

When they see me quickly and easily doing crimps that are perfect every time with my cheap ratcheting crimper, it has been a revelation to them, and in each case they've been converted.

I often use RJ45 jacks so I can use any standard Ethernet cable and easily change cable lengths.

I love the ratcheting crimpers with the interchangeable dies. You just need the right dies for the job and can crimp about anything. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Professional-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting/dp/B01IQIALJC/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496949252&sr=1-6&keywords=ratcheting+crimpers

I think the patent on these must have ran out because they used to be expensive and now there are many makers of varying quality. The last $20 pair I bought worked as well as the $80 pair from 20 years ago.